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NOTE: if your engine has Solid State ignition (and already has a new-style valve cover assy), DISREGARD figure 5 & 11 thru 13
Carbure-
Valve
Cover
Linkage &
Heat Dampening
Tools needed for job (10 mm socket and swivel extension, flattip screwdriver, 10 & 13 mm wrenches, needle nose pliers, 5
& 6 mm allen wrenches. Flat file may or may not be needed)
Feedcock ON
Feedcock OFF
Valve cover
7) Remove wavy washers from studs with needle-nose pliers, or, if you are good, your fingers. BE CAREFUL not to
drop washer into opening below on valve cover.
Governor arm
8) Loosen clamp screw holding throttle linkage rod to governor arm. Slide rod out of clamp to right.
10) Remove old intake gasket. (May have to scrape off with
razor.)
External view
of new valve
cover assembly
Internal view of
new valve cover
assembly
If the new valve cover assy. hits the upper edge of the governor
linkage cover, this is where a flat file is employed.you may
have to file a little material away from the governor cover.
13) Install new cover assembly with tab at top and with
breather tube pointing away from the recoil starter.
Linkage rod
Throttle lever
16) Install the new carburetor: First, take the straight end of
the linkage rod and fit it into the hole in the governor arm
clamp. Slide the carburetor over the studs. Install upper nut on
carb mounting finger-tight for now. The linkage rod MAY be
in a bit of a bind due to the fact that the throttle shaft arm on
the new carburetor is further out from the engine, and may
not line up with the governor arm as well. If this is the case,
Remove the linkage rod from the governor arm. Take needlenose pliers and twist the top of the governor arm just a bit so
the hole in the clamp is pointing in-line with the direction the
throttle shaft arm. Reinsert the throttle rod in the governor arm
clamp and check for smooth movement. (NOTE: may have to
remove carb from mounting studs to get linkage rod out of /
back into the clamp) When satisfied with linkage, install wavy
washers and nuts, tighten with 10mm socket or wrench. DO
NOT tighten linkage clamp screw yet.
18) Remove governor linkage guard (if engine equipped with one)
with 6mm allen wrench & 13 mm wrench to access governor spring.
Using needle-nose pliers, move governor spring from the middle
hole on the governor arm to the outer hole. Reinstall linkage guard.
Hook spring in
Outermost hole
(furthest to Right)
19) Run new fuel line from fuel tank to intake on carburetor.
Secure with supplied clamps (the hose will fit loosely at the
carb and tight at the tank, but it will tighten up OK on the
carb with the clamp supplied).
20) Remove cover from NEW oil-bath air filter assembly (if
new carb equipped with one) and fill cup with engine oil
(any clean engine oil up to 15w40 is fine) to the fill line
marked near the bottom. Reinstall air filter assembly cover.
(this is a bit tricky...make sure to line up the tab on the one
side, or the cover wont sit down right)
NOTES:
A. The Red choke control on this new carburetor works
BACKWARD from most push-pull chokes...on this one,
you PUSH IN to choke the engine for starting, and PULL
OUT for the run position.
B. After starting engine, adjust the idle mixture and idle stop
screws on the new carb for proper operation if needed.
Engine should idle smoothly, and accelerate without much
hesitation. (Idle mixture screw should run about 1.5 to 2
turns out from bottom.)
C. Make sure the nuts or bolts that attach the air filter assembly to the carb are tight. (the factory pre-assembles the air
filter / filter mount to the carb, but they are not always
tightened properly)
Idle Mixture
screw
Idle stop
screw