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Crochet Reindeer Applique Pattern

I got an e-mail the other day from someone asking for help with a reindeer appliqu. I
loved the idea and decided I would see if I could come up with something. Little
rudolph works up in only 2 rounds (minus the embellishments) and you can use a
button nose like I did or feel free to crochet a small red (or brown) circle instead.
Finished piece measures 3" x 2" (at widest point). Add these to a basic beanie for
some holiday cheer!
Materials:
- Worsted weight yarn in light brown, dark brown and small bits of white, black and
red. I used Lion Brand Vanna's Choice in Honey for the main color.
- 1/2"-1" size red button
- Size G6 (4.00mm) Crochet Hook
- Tapestry Needle
Abbreviations:

SC - Single Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
DC = Double Crochet
Rudolph Pattern:
Leave long tail at the beginning of your slip knot. You will use this to see your appliqu on.
Chain 9, HdC in 3rd chain from hook, and in next 3, DC in next 2, make 6 DC in last chain...
Now working on other side of chain, DC in next 2, HDC in next 4, join to top of first HDC.
Rd 2: Slip stitch in next stitch, now chain 3. Slip stitch in 2nd chain from hook, sc in next, join with
slip stitch to next stitch in your first round (you have now made your first ear). Slip stitch in next 3,
2 SC in next 7, slip stitch in next 4, chain 3, slip stitch in 2nd chain from hook, sc in next chain,
join with slip stitch to last stitch in first round.Fasten off weave in ends.

Antlers:
Join dark brown yarn to top of head, chain 3, slip stitch down chain and join to same stitch you
started in. fasten off and weave in ends. Make two antlers between the ears.
Finish face by sewing on red button and stitching on eyes using your tapestry needle with white
and black yarn.
If you want to crochet the nose make a magic ring and make 8 HDC's inside the ring. Join and
pull tight.

- See more at: http://www.repeatcrafterme.com/2013/12/crochet-reindeer-appliquepattern.html#sthash.uIcwctd2.dpuf

You need to know:

- your gauge

- your HAT circumference

- your HAT diameter

Age

Head Size

Hat Size

Hat Height

Flat Circle Diameter

0-6 months

13 - 15in

12 -14 inches

4.5 - 5 inches

4 inches

6-12 months

16 - 19 inches

14 18 inches

5.5 inches

4.5 inches

1 3 Years

18 - 21 inches

17 20 inches

6.5 inches

5.5 inches

4+ years

20 22 inches

19 21 inches

7.5 inches

6 inches

Women

22 inches

20 inches

8.5 inches

6.5 inches

Men

23 inches

21 inches

9.5 inches

6.75 inches

As an example, I am going to do the equations for a 1-3 year hat, with a 17inch
hat circumference and a 5.5inch diameter.

GAUGE

First you need to gauge swatch. For Cascade 220 and a 5mm hook, my gauge is:

14HDC and 11.5 rows = 4inches

In order to simplify things, its easier to use your 1 inch gauge, based on your
normal swatch size, in my case:

3.5 HDCs and 2.9 rows in 1 inch

Armed with this information, I need to figure out how many stitches will make
up my circumference and over how many rounds I need to build up those
stitches for a nice even crown.

Step 1: Stitches in Hat Circumference

First, lets figure out how many stitches are required for the HAT circumference.

To do this, you need to multiply the hat circumference by the number of stitches
in your gauge. The number you get is the # of stitches around your final
circumference will be.

HAT CIRCUMFERENCE x # of STITCHES IN GAUGE = # of STITCHES in


CIRCUMFERENCE

In my example: 17inches x 3.5stitches = 59.5 stitches in circumference

Step 2: Rounds in Hat Diameter

Then, you need to multiply the diameter of the required hat size by the number
of rows in your gauge swatch. Then, because when measuring across a flat circle,
each round equals two rows, you need to divide this figure by 2. This is the
number of rounds that will make up your diameter.

(HAT DIAMETER x # of ROWS in GAUGE)/ 2 = # of ROUNDS in DIAMETER

In my example: (5.5 inches x 2.9 rows)/ 2 = 7.97 of rounds in diameter

Step 3: Calculating the Increases

So now you have 2 figures:

the number of stitches that will make up the circumference (59.5)

the number of rounds that will make up the diameter (7.97)

Now, obviously you can't have 0.5 of a stitch or 0.97 of a row. You'll need to
make a judgement on each. Generally speaking, I estimate the rounds to the
nearest complete number. In my example, its obviously 8.

Next, you need to figure out how many stitches to increase in each round, or
what number stitches you'll crochet into your first loop and then increase by over
the rounds. This is calculated by dividing the stitches in the circumference by the
rounds in the diameter.

# of STITCHES in CIRCUMFERENCE/# of ROUNDS in DIAMETER = Stitches


to increase per round

In my example: 59.5/ 8 = 7.43 stitches per round.

You'll often come out with an uneven number. This is where you need to make a
judgement. You can:

- Leave the remaining stitches out (in my example: I could make 8 rounds of 7
stitches each with a total of 56 stitches, which would change the hat size from 17
inches to 16 inches)

- Add stitches in to make a next full increase round (in my example, I could round
it up to 8 stitches over 8 rounds, for a 64 stitch hat circumference, but this would
mean about an 18inch hat circumference)

- To get the correct sizing, round down to the nearest number (in my case 7).
Then in an additional round (in my case, round 9) increase evenly by the
remaining 'hanging stitches' (in my case 3).

Then you need to work even until the hat height measures your desired size.

*****

There are so many variations to this process, which I can not go into in this kind
of format. However, once you get this basic principle, the possibilities are
endless, including sizing up and down for writing a pattern.

For other varieties:

- Slouchy hats tend to have longer heights and a diameter that will fit snugly on
the wearers head so it doesn't slip down over their eyes.

- Beret styles are larger circles so the diameter of the circle makes up much of
the hat height. Obviously the bottom few rounds need to be decreased to a good
snug fit.

- Hats with pointy tops can be made by alternating each increase rows with rows
that do not increase stitches at all. This will form a cone. To measure the
diameter, just rely on the stitch count

*****

Notes: Though I write about inches, it will work just find if you measure in
centimeters.

Even though this all sounds very complicated, it is actually relatively straight
forward to implement once you get the hang of it (she says, with optimism).
However, if it makes no sense to you at all, try drinking a glass of wine, and if
that still doesn't work, I accept full responsibility ;)

There is soooo much more I could say about hat design and pattern writing, but I
am going to leave it here for now, as this gives a very basic foundation. I am
toying with the idea of putting all of this (and the other important information) in
a pdf, but time is limited at the moment. However, if you have any questions,
please ask either in the comments section or on facebook and I will do my best to
answer.

How to Design a Hat, Part 1 is here.

The full interactive eBook is available here.

Subscribing in a reader or liking Slugs on the Refrigerator on Facebook are great


ways to be alterted to when I post part 3.

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