Using Vanilla and Vanilla-containing Fragrance Oils in Your Soap

Whether Ivory to Chocolate - It's Going to be BROWN

By David Fisher
I've seen it happen...I've lived it.
You get a fabulous new fragrance oil from a supplier, a swap, a friend. You try it out in a new batch of soap. No
problems! Your soap comes out its normal lovely off-white color as it's poured in the mold. You cover it up and leave it
to harden over night.
But something happens in the night. You come into the kitchen and unmold the soap. You notice that the top of the
soap, that has been exposed to the air overnight, is slightly darker - just a tiny bit - than the rest of the creamy offwhite soap. You think nothing of it, slice the bars, and put them on the rack to cure.
The next day, you walk into your soap room (or wherever you have your soap curing), take one look at your soap and
are stopped in your tracks - it's brown! Maybe not deep chocolate brown, but definitely brown! The next day...it's even
browner...and the next...even browner!
What happened?
You've used a fragrance oil that contains vanilla. There is a chemical component in the vanilla that turns brown when it
is exposed first to the lye, and then to the air. It's that simple. If you used a "vanilla" fragrance oil (Vanilla, French
Vanilla, Warm Vanilla Sugar etc.), your soap will likely turn a deep chocolate brown over the course of about two
weeks. However, I hear you cry, you didn't use a vanilla fragrance! You used "Mint Chocolate" or "Pumpkin Spice" or
"Sandalwood"! Many many fragrance blends have a little bit of vanilla in them. It warms the blends, rounds out the
base tones. It's a lovely part of the blends - if it weren't for the turning brown part. The more vanilla there is in the
blend, the more brown it's going to turn. I had a sandalwood blend that turned a light beige. The Pumpkin Spice blend I
used in the pics on the right didn't smell very "vanilla-like" but it had a lot of vanilla in it anyway. It was a medium
brown after just two days!
The Solution?
Unfortunately, there really isn't one. For one, be sure to ask your fragrance supplier, or look on the website, for
fragrance oil notes. Many suppliers will tell you if the fragrance will discolor. You can also check out the Scent Review
Board or the Soap Dish Forum for comments about a particular supplier's fragrance. If there's one you just have to use
that discolors, I recommend you just embrace the brown. Make a brown-themed soap. Add some cinnamon or brown
oxide to make it even browner. Add a bit of red for a red and brown swirl. Add some gold mica for a bit of gold shimmer
in the brown. You can also ladle out a bit of the soapbefore you add the fragrance oil, and do a swirl with the
unscented part. You'll get a white & brown swirl.
There are "vanilla neutralizers" on the market, but I've not had very good luck with them. I think it's better just to know
that you're going to have discoloration ahead of time...and plan for it.
http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/tipstricks/qt/vanilladiscolor.htm
Why Did my Soap Turn Brown?

posted by Anne-Marie Faiola Wednesday, October 2nd, 2013

Welcome to Wednesday, everyone! As a midweek soapy pick-me-up, were addressing a question weve heard all too
often in the Bramble Berry offices: Why did my soap turn brown?! If youve had a few batches of soap under your
belt, youve likely encountered some kind of discoloration. Were here to clear up some confusion! While your
fragrances may look relatively clear or white out of the bottle, the truth is they may contain vanilla, which while
great for baking is not so great for behaving predictably in soap.
If you are making melt and pour soap, you can use the Vanilla Color Stabilizer (VCS) to prevent discoloration. It
counteracts the vanilla in the fragrance oil, keeping your colors bright and vibrant. If you are making cold process
soap, you can try using the VCS but keep in mind that it wont last forever in cold process soap. Eventually, the soap
will discolor. However, this doesnt have to be a bad thing either, as natural discoloration can result in some beautiful
colors. Read on to find out more about discoloration and how you can use it to your advantage.

Even if your soap appears correctly colored at first, after a few days it will reveal its true colors! This is the
discoloration that appeared a few days after soaping, and eventually the entire bar will turn that same creamy
chocolate brown.
Vanilla is a flavor derived from orchids. Vanilla pods start out very green and then darken to brown as the pod ages and
ripens. The darkening of the vanilla bean is caused by various reactions in some of the components mainly the

vanillin. Vanillin is the organic compound that gives vanilla its flavor. Vanillin discoloration is a 100% natural process
that can be slowed by adding chemicals to stabilize the fragrance. Even then, the reaction and discoloration will still
happen. This color can range anywhere from a slight yellow all the way to a dark brown (the same color as a dried
vanilla pod and real vanilla extract). Below are examples of various percentages of vanilla in a basic cold process
recipes. There were no colorants added to these soaps; it was simply the vanilla causing the discoloration!

You can actually use the discoloration of the vanilla to your advantage and create some pretty awesome designs. In
fact, if you have the Soap Crafting book, check out the Black and White soap recipe (on page 60) to learn more about
how you can use discoloration to your advantage. If you dont have the book yet, you can get some discoloring
inspiration from the following blog posts:
The fragrances have been separated into four groups based on their vanilla content: 0 5%, 5.1 10%, 10.1 15%
and 15 20%. You can see examples of these four ranges of discoloration in the photos above. While these photos are
not meant to represent all the levels of discoloration that might occur in that range, they will give you an idea of what
you can expect!
http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/why-did-my-soap-turn-brown/
Coloring Soap with Vanilla Fragrance Oil
If you can't beat it...
By David Fisher
As I explained in my article, Using Vanilla or Vanilla Fragrance Oils in Your Soaps, vanilla and vanilla-containing
fragrance oils will turn your soap brown...sometimes deep brown. And remember, it's not just scents with "Vanilla" in
the name that will do it. Vanilla is a great base note in fragrance blends, so many fragrance blends use vanilla as a
component to help ground, deepen and mellow the blend.
Well, if you can't beat it, join it.
In a batch I made recently, I embraced the vanilla, and actually used it to make a nice swirl. I made the batch as
normal (Basic Soap Making Instructions) but, knowing that the vanilla fragrance oil was going to turn the soap brown, I
planned ahead. I designed the recipe as a "Lavender Vanilla" soap. The batch I made took about 2 ounces of fragrance
oil. I measured out one ounce of lavender essential oil, and one ounce of vanilla fragrance oil. Right after the soap
reached very light trace I separated the raw soap into two parts. To one, I added the lavender oil, to the other, the
vanilla. After mixing them in well, I layered the soap into the mold and swirled it a bit. In the mold, you could hardly tell
the difference in the two soap mixtures...but after I cut it, and it sat for a few days...voila...a lovely brown and tan
swirl! I've also done this with orange essential oil and vanilla (lemon is yummy too), pine or Christmas scents and
vanilla, and floral scents like ylang ylang or geranium and vanilla. Ehhh...pretty much everything blends well with
vanilla...so give it a try.
http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/tipstricks/a/vanillaswirl.htm

Will Your Fragrance Oil Discolor My CP Soap?

Many fragrance oils may cause varying degrees of discoloration in CP soap from a light, creamy color to a deep, dark brown. Vanillaand Chocolate-scented fragrance oils often cause especially dark discolorations in CP soap.
Some of these fragrances that discolor CP soap very dark may also affect the color of the soap's lather, depending on the recipe you
use. This will not affect the performance of the soap, and should rinse clean.
Do You Recommend Any Whiteners To Compensate For CP Soap Discoloration?
No, we do not recommend using a whitener neither Titanium Dioxide nor so-called Vanilla Stabilizers to prevent a fragrance oil from
discoloring CP soap. We have never had success with these methods. Moreover, the introduction of the chemicals may result in an
unpleasant odor, chalky soap texture, and/or other such undesirable effects.
http://store.scent-works.com/froilfaq.html
Why do some fragrances turn brown?
Vanilla based fragrances will always turn color...the more vanilla, the more likely the soap will eventually turn dark brown. The color change can
occur from days to weeks to months. It is most often associated with the vanilla level in the fragrance oils. It is an inherent property of the
ingredients. There is a product on the market called "Vanilla Color Stabilizer". This product is added to MP Soap and it will stop a vanilla fragrance
from turning brown. It does not work in CP or HP Soap.

http://www.soapteacher.com/StoreCategory.aspx?CategoryID=20&CategoryName=Fragrance+%26+Essential+Oils

French Vanilla Almond:

2 cups Soap Base
1/3 cups Ground Almonds
2 tablespoons Almond Oil
1/2 tablespoon Almond FO
1/2 tablespoon Vanilla FO

Wild Honeysuckle and Honey:

1 cup Opaque Soap Base
1/2 tablespoon Wild Honesuckle FO

Green Tea:
2 cups opague Soap Base
2 tablespons Rice Flour
1/2 tablespoon Green Tea FO
1/2 tablespoon Jasmine FO
1 Tea Bag of Green Tea with Jasmine Flowers
Colors: 1 drop Blue and 6 drops Orange

Wild Honeysuckle/ Honey/Milk:

Add 2 tablespoons of Powdered Milk to
Wild Honeysuckle and Honey Recipe

Healing Skin Soap:

2 cups Soap Base
2 tablespoons Emu oil
3 drops each of Carrot Seed and Rose Otto Eo
Lavender/Rosemary/Aloe:
2 cup Opaque Soap Base
1 tablespoon Powdered Lavender Flowers
and Rosemary Leaves
1/2 teaspoon Lavender and Rosemary eo
2 tablespoons Coconut Oil
2 cups Clear soap Base
1/2 c Aloe Vera Gel
Lemon/Lime:
2 cups Clear Soap Base
1/2 teaspoon Each of Lemon and Lime EO
Lemon Orange Peel:
1 cup Clear Soap Base
1 teaspoon Orange/Mandarin
or Tangerine EO
1 cup Opaque Soap Base
1 teaspoon Lemon EO
1/2 teaspoon Lemon or Orange Peel
Cure Longer!!!

1 cup Clear Soap Base

2 tablespoons Honey

(English) Rose/ Honeysuckle:

3 cups Soap Base
2 tablespoons English Rose FO
1/2 tablespoon of Honeysuckle FO

Calamine Soap:
2 cups Soap Base
4 tablespoons Calamine Lotion
2 tablespoon French White Clay
1 teaspoon of Lavender EO
Citrus & Calendula Soap:
2 cups Soap Base
1/4 cup Calendula Petals
1/2 tsp. Grapefruit EO
1/4 tsp. Tangerine EO
1/4 tsp. Lemon EO
1 tablespoon Shea Butter
Calendula/Lavender/Oatmeal:
2 cups Opaque Soap Base
1/2 cup Powdered Oatmeal
1 tablespoon Powdered Calendula
and Lavender Flowers
1 teaspoon Lavender EO
Chamomile Oatmeal Soap:
2 cups Opaque Soap Base
1 teaspoon Sweet Almond Oil
1 teaspoon Citrus EO
1 teaspoon Powdered Oatmeal
1 teaspoon Powdered Chamomile Flowers

Moisturizing Lavender Soap:

1 lb. Clear Soap Base
1 teaspoon Cocoa Butter
1 teaspoon ground Lavender Flowers
1/2 teaspoon Lavender EO

Cranberry Orange:
2 cups Soap Base
1/2 tablespoon of Cranberry FO
1/2 teaspoon Orange EO

Vanilla Orange:
2 cups Opaque Soap Base
1 tablespoon Vanilla FO

Earth Clay Soap:

2 cups Soap Base
1 T. Clay
2 T. Jojoba Oil
1 tablespoon Fressia EO

1 cup Clear Soap Base

1/2 teaspoon Sweet Orange EO

Vanilla can discolor soap. A Color Stabilizer must be used to prevent discoloration. Make sure to check with the manufacturer.
Otherwise, your soap may turn brown.
There are many things that can be added to soaps. Some of the additives are commercially obtained, but this doesn't mean that
you can't just get something from your cupboard.
For example, if I decide to make a soap to look like and smell like a strawberry cupcake, then I would use a pinch of poppy seeds
to give the impression of strawberries. I would also whip up an opague soap to look like frosting.
Remember that your imagination is what determines what you can do --I consider soapmaking an art form. So be creative!!
Beeswax can be added to soap formulas to make the bar harder.
Dyes:
Neon Concentrate dyes will not migrate or bleed in MP soap base, and work equally well in clear or white soap. Shake well before
using. Neon and Liquid Shocker Concentrates clear soap will become slightly cloudy and there may be a small amount of natural
sediment (this is in all natural product). These colors do not migrate when embedded in soap. Heat the bottle in the microwave for 5
seconds if you have trouble mixing the color (first remove the foil cap liner from the bottle).
Opague Concentrate dyes are best used with clear bases. Each color is pastel--ldue to the white undertone.
Pigment Concentrate dyes are made from all natural ingredients. They do not migrate or "bleed" when layered and tend to look
more natural than other colors.
Sparkle Concentrate dyes give your soap a luster appearance, much like the colors in frosted lipstick. These colors are really
intended for clear soap (they tend to get lost in opaque bases). Some of these colors migrate in soap, while others do not.
Natural Dyes:
The first synethic dye was developed by an English Chemist by the name of William Henry Perkins in 1856. This discovery
replaced all natural dyes that were used in the textile industry by 1915. Between the 1920s and 1970s a renewed interest in natural
dyes was ignited by crafters and artists.
Here is a small list for using nature for dyes:
Calendula flowers will produce shades of yellow, olive green and brown.
Elderberry berries will produce pinks, violet and blue-gray. The leaves will produce pale green, gold and olive green.
Eucalyptus bark will produce reddish-brown, tan and gray. The dried leaves will produce soft orange, brown and yellow-green.
Fresh leaves will produce orange and red.
Henna leaves will produce shades of brown.
Indigo leaves will produce shades of blue.
Nettle tops will produce yellow, yellow-green, gray-green and gold.
Onion skins will produce yellow, orange, brown and olive green.
St. John's wort tops will produce yellow, tan and brown. The flowers will produce olive, red and yellow.
Turmeric roots will produce gold, yellow, orange, dark olive green, and brown.
Yarrow tops will produce yellow, yellow-green and olive.
Herbs:
Calendula soothes rough, dry skin, and is gentle enough for babies.
Chamomile refeshs and softens skin. It is for light complexions.
Comfrey rejuvenates skin cells.
Echinacea has antibiotics properties and is good as an acne soap.
Elderberry helps soften age lines.
Lavender is good for oily skin. It is a natural antiseptic and is very relaxing.

Lemon Verbena just smell great when combined with lemon balm and lemongrass.
Mint leaves are good for oily skin and acne. It has antibacterial properties and has an uplifting effect.
Oats are healing and soften the skin. It also makes soap cure faster.
Plantain helps heal skin problems; such as sores and wounds.
Rosemary softens and conditions the skin. It is best used for darker complexions.
Thyme is good for oily skin and can be used in acne soap.
Oils and Butters:
Essential Oils-Use no more than 1 teaspoon per pound of soap.
Fragrance Oils-Use no more than 1 tablespoon per pound of soap.
Fragrances that contain vanilla can discolor Soap (and more fragrances contain vanilla than you might expect). A color stabilizer
must be used to prevent discoloration. Use one tablespoon per pound of soap.
Sweet Almond Oil is moisturizing and soothing. It makes a smooth satin stable lather. It is nutrient-rich and is suitable for all skin
types. Some people are allergic to almond.
Apricot Kernel Oil is an emollient oil, it is good for premature aging skin, dry and sensitive skin. It is highly moisturizing, and gives
stable lather when used in making soap. It is good for all skin types.
Avocado Oil is a rich, nourishing oil.It absorbs into the skin and scalp easily and is high in vitamin A & E.It is good for dry and
damaged skin and is known to help with eczema and psoriases.
Calendula Oil is made by infusing calendula petals in a good carrier oil like olive or sweet almond. Historically it is known for
healing wounds, dry and damaged skin and for eczema and soothing skin eruptions. Is very mild and can be used in baby soaps.
Good for all skin types.
Canola Oil (also known as rapeseed oil) is often used in place of olive oil in soap formulas. It is not as good as olive oil but it is
cheaper.
Castor Oil is often used to enhance lather of soap. Only small amounts are used, since it can make soap soft.
Cocoa Butter makes soaps harder and add emollients. It has a natural chocolate smell. It has wonderful skin softening and
moisturizing properties. Good for normal to dry skin.
Coconut Oil enhances soap lather and is good for the skin. Do not buy product that says "derived from Coconut oil" this is the
synthetic foam booster "sodium lauryl sulfate" that has been linked to many skin allergies.
Carrot Root Oil is an essential oil. It is high in vitamin A and beta-carotene and is healing to dry and mature skin.
Emu Oil should be only with essential oils and herbs since it enhances them. This oil is said to help sore muscles, aching joints,
pain and inflammation. It helps rejuvenate skin cells and reduces scarring. It is good for helping eczema and psoriasis, and it is
good for all skin types.
Evening Primrose Oil contains GLA (gamma-linoleic acid). It blends well with other carrier oils, is mildly astringent and it is used as
a treatment for dry, flaky skin and skin prone to eczema, psoriasis, etc.
Grapeseed Oil has emollient properties. It is a light, penetrating oil and it good for all skin types.
Hemp Seed Oil is a source of essential fatty acids, high in minerals and vitamin A.
Jojoba Oil is really a liquid wax. It is said to be closely related to human sebum and this makes it very compatible with our skin. It
can be used for acne and pimples and for dry and damaged skin. It is also a fixitive for the scenting oils.
Kokum Butter is from the root of the Garcinia indica tree grown in India. It is similar to shea butter.
Lard (pork fat) make soap hard. Good to use when using vegetable oils that have a tendency to make a softer soap.
Mango Butter is made from the fruit seed of the mango tree grown in the sub-tropics. It is slightly more solid than shea butter but
gives the same characteristics to soap.
Neem Oil is known for for helping skin problems like eczema, psoriasis, and dry skin.
Olive Oil is what Castile soap is made from. It is healing and moisturizing to the skin. It makes dense tiny lather when used alone,
but you can add a bit of castor oil to make larger and longer lasting bubbles.
Palm Kernel Oil or Flakes can be used instead of Coconut Oil. It seems to be more gentle to the skin, without causing dryness.

Palm Oil can be used instead of lard or tallow for making a totally Veggie soap. Its properties are similar to Coconut oil and makes
an mild soap.
Peanut Oil is an emollient and is food for all dry skin types.
Pomace Olive Oil is extracted from the residues (from previous pressings), skins and pits (pomace) of olives. The final bar of 100%
pomace tends to be somewhat softer than those made from virgin or midgrade olive oil.
Sesame Seed Oil is said to be good for psoriasis, eczema, rheumatism, and arthritis.
Shea Butter is expressed from the pits of the fruit of the African butter tree, and it is extremely moisturizing. Unrefined Shea Butter
(also known as karite butter) is more penetrating than the refined, because it has not been chemically treated and stripped of its
vitamin and nutritious values.
Shortening (Vegetable) is made of hydrogenated soybean oil and is an inexpensive way to add hardness to soap. It is mild and has
a stable lather.
St. Johns Wort is infused into a carrier oil such as olive or sweet almond. It is used for muscular pain and to help relieve nervous
skin rashes. It is an anti-inflammatory oil that is soothing and helpful to wounds.
Sunflower Oil is an emollient oil extracted from sunflower seeds. It is rich in essential fatty acids, but has a short shelf life. Good for
all skin types.
Tallow (Beef) like lard was used as a main base in soapmaking before vegetable oils were introduced into soapmaking. Suet is the
hard fat from around the beef kidneys. Suet is the highest quality tallow. Makes a hard white bar and is a good additive to liquid
vegetable oils.
Turkey Red Oil is sulfonated castor oil. It has been processed so it mixes with water more easily. It is not recommended for
soapmaking.
Walnut Oil is extracted from walnuts, and has soothing and moisturizing qualities. Good for all dry skin types.
Wheat germ Oil has a strong odor. It is rich in vitamin E, (a natural antioxidant), a natural preservative and has a long shelf life.
Liquid Glycerin is added 1 tablespoon to 1 cup of soap to increase suds.
Micas give your products a sparkle. For the best effect, the base product should be clear (not opaque soap). Mix with a small
amount of base product to eliminate clumps, and then add this mixture to your entire batch. When adding mica to glycerin soap,
mix in a tablespoon of water first, then add to the melted soap.
References:
Culinary Herb Goes Dye Crazy by Susan M. Strawn; The Herb Companion September 2004
Melt and Pour Soapmaking by Marie Browning
Soapmaking for the First Time by Linda Orton
Suds Up Your Harvest by Marguerite King; The Herb Companion September 2004
Transparent Soapmaking by Catherine Failor

Home > Just the FAQs > Glossary of Terms

Glossary of Terms
Acceleration

Flashpoint

Notes (see "Fragrance Notes")

Acid Value

Fragrance Industry Ingredients Oil

AOCS

FO (Fragrance Oil)

OSI (Oil Stability Index)

Autoignition Temperature

Fragrance Notes

Performance

Boiling Point

GRAS

Peroxide Value

Botanical Name

HLB System

pH

CAS

HMIS

Pour Point

Code of Practice

Hydrosol

Refractive Index

Cold Test

Hydroxyl Value

RIFM

Cloud Point

ICBN

Saponification

CTFA

IFRA

SAP Value

Cosmetic

INCI

Scent Strength

Dangerous Goods

Iodine Value

Shelf Life

Density

JCID

Solubility

Dewaxing

KOH Value

Specific Gravity

Discoloration

Lipids

Stability

EINECS

Lovibond Color

Trace

Essential Oils

Melting Point

Trace Elements

Fats

Miscibility

Unsaponifiable Matter

Fatty Acids

NaOH Value

Vegetable Oils

FCC (Food Chemicals Codex) Neat

Viscosity

Flammable Liquid

Volatility

Non-volatile Content

Acceleration
The term acceleration, or, more accurately, accelerating trace, in soap-making refers to
speeding up of the process known as Trace.
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Acid Value
The acid value is the number of milligrams of potassium hydroxide necessary to neutralize the
free acids in 1 gram of sample. With samples that contain virtually no free acids other than fatty
acids, the acid value may be directly converted by means of a suitable factor to percent free
fatty acids.
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AOCS
AOCS is an acronym standing for The American Oil Chemists' Society, "...a global professional
scientific society for all individuals and corporations with interest in the fats, oils, surfactants,
detergents and related materials fields. The Society produces the Official Methods and
Recommended Practices of the AOCS. Currently in it's 6th Edition, this document includes over
400 analytical methods critical to processing, trading, utilizing, and evaluating fats, oils, and
lipid products.
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Autoignition Temperature
The Autoignition Temperature of a substance is the lowest temperature at which it will
spontaneously ignite in a normal atmosphere without an external source of ignition, such as a
flame or spark. The temperature at which a substance will ignite decreases as the pressure
increases or oxygen concentration increases.
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Boiling Point
Boiling Point is the temperature at which the vapor pressure of a liquid equals atmospheric
pressure or at which the liquid changes to a vapor. If a flammable material has a low Boiling
Point, it indicates a special fire hazard.
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Botanical Name
A Botanical Name is a formal name conforming to the International Code of Botanical
Nomenclature (ICBN). The purpose of such a formal name is to have a single name worldwide
for a particular plant or plant group.
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CAS
CAS is an acronym for the Chemical Abstract Service, a division of the American Chemical
Society. A CAS Number (or CAS Registry Number) is a unique numeric identifier for
chemical substances found in the CAS Registry (the "Registry").
The CAS Registry is the largest and most current database of chemical substance information
in the world, containing more than 32 million organic and inorganic substances and nearly 60
million sequences. The Registry covers substances identified from the scientific literature from
1957 to the present, with additional substances going back to the early 1900s.
The CAS Registry contains a wide variety of substances, including the world's largest collection
of Organic compounds, Inorganic compounds, Metals, Alloys, Minerals, Coordination
compounds, Organometallics, Elements, Isotopes, Nuclear particles, Proteins and nucleic
acids, Polymers, and Nonstructurable materials (UVCBs).
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Code of Practice
The IFRA Code of Practice is a comprehensive document that supports our commitment to
provide products that are safe for use by the consumer and to the environment.
The Code of Practice applies to the manufacture and handling of all fragrance materials, for all
types of applications and contains the full set of IFRA Standards. Abiding by the IFRA Code of
Practice is a prerequisite for all fragrance supplier companies that are members of IFRA (either
directly or through national associations). The majority of client companies (including producers
of toiletries and household products) expect their fragrances to comply with IFRA Standards as
set out in the Code.
Amendments to the Code, if required, are issued annually, based on new scientific
developments. These contain either new usage restrictions or revisions of existing usage
restrictions.
The IFRA Code of Practice is distributed worldwide and is in the hands of all member
associations and their member companies, including governmental regulatory bodies and many
other stakeholders. It is also available to all here.
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Cold Test
This method measures the resistance of the test sample to crystallization and is commonly
used as an index of the winterization and stearin removal process. Also see Cloud Point.
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Cloud Point
The cloud point of fatty acids is the temperature at which the clear fatty acid becomes hazy (or
"cloudy"), due to the crystallization of higher melting components, when the product is cooled
under specified conditions.
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CTFA
CTFA is an acronym for the American Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association. Originally,
the Toilet Goods Association (TGA), the CTFA, through it's approximately 600 member
companies, ...provides a complete range of services that support the personal care products
industrys needs and interests in the scientific, legal, regulatory, legislative, and international
fields.
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Cosmetic
As defined in the Federal Food , Drug and Cosmetic Act under Section 201(i), the term
"cosmetic" means... (1) articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on,
introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing,
beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance, and (2) articles intended for
use as a component of any such articles; except that such term shall not include soap.
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Dangerous Goods
As used in reference to the transport of Hazardous Materials, the term Dangerous Goods
shall refer to any material having a Flashpoint at or below 60.5 degrees Celsius (141 degrees
Fahrenheit).
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Density
The density of a material is defined as its mass per unit volume. Mathematically, density is
expressed as

=m/V
where
is the density,
m is the mass, and
V is the volume.
Also see Specific Gravity.
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Dewaxing
Dewaxing is the process of removing wax from a base oil to improve low temperature
properties, especially to lower the cloud point and pour point.
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Discoloration
Discoloration in soap-making, for our purposes, describes the alteration of hue or appearance
from the otherwise inherent color of the soap.
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EINECS
EINECS, is an acronym referring to The European Inventory of Existing Commercial
Substances. An EINECS Number is the seven-digit code that is assigned to chemical
substances that are commercially available within the European Union.
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Essential Oils
An essential oil is a concentrated hydrophobic liquid containing volatile aroma compounds from
plants. Essential oils are also known as volatile, ethereal oils or aetherolea, or simply as the "oil
of" the plant from which they were extracted, such as oil of clove. An oil is "essential" in the
sense that it carries a distinctive scent, or essence, of the plant. Essential oils do not as a
group need to have any specific chemical properties in common, beyond conveying
characteristic fragrances.
Essential oils are extracted from their plant hosts using a variety of methods including
distillation, expressing, and solvent extraction (see "Extraction Methods for Plant Oils for further
information). They are used in perfumes, cosmetics, soap and other products, for flavoring food
and drink, and for scenting incense and household cleaning products.
Various essential oils have been used medicinally at different periods in history. Medical
applications range from skin treatments to remedies for cancer, and are often based on
historical use of these oils for these purposes. Such claims are now subject to regulation in
most countries, and have grown more vague to stay within these regulations.
Interest in essential oils has revived in recent decades with the popularity of aromatherapy, a
branch of alternative medicine which claims that the specific aromas carried by essential oils
have curative effects. Oils are volatilized or diluted in a carrier oil and used in massage,
diffused in the air by a nebulizer or by heating over a candle flame, or burned as incense, for
example.
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Fats
Fats consist of a wide group of compounds that are generally soluble in organic solvents and
largely insoluble in water. Chemically, fats are generally triesters of glycerol and fatty acids.
Fats may be either solid or liquid at room temperature, depending on their structure and
composition.

Fats form a category of lipid, distinguished from other lipids by their chemical structure and
physical properties. This category of molecules is important for many forms of life, serving both
structural and metabolic functions. They are an important part of the diet of most heterotrophs
(including humans). Fats or lipids are broken down in the body by enzymes called lipases
produced in the pancreas.
Examples of edible animal fats are lard (pig fat), fish oil, and butter. They are obtained from fats
in the milk, meat and under the skin of the animal. Examples of edible plant fats are peanut,
soya bean, sunflower, sesame, coconut, olive, and vegetable oils. Margarine and vegetable
shortening, which can be derived from the above oils, are used mainly for baking. These
examples of fats can be categorized into saturated fats and unsaturated fats.

Saturated Fats
Saturated fat is fat that consists of triglycerides containing only saturated fatty acid
radicals. There are several kinds of naturally occurring saturated fatty acids, which
differ by the number of carbon atoms, ranging from 3 carbons (propionic acid) to 36
(Hexatriacontanoic acid). Saturated fatty acids have no double bonds between the
carbon atoms of the fatty acid chain and are thus fully saturated with hydrogen atoms.
Fat that occurs naturally in tissue contains varying proportions of saturated and
unsaturated fat. Examples of foods containing a high proportion of saturated fat include
dairy products (especially craem and cheese but also butter); animal fats such as suet,
tallow, lard and fatty meat; coconut oil, cottonseed oil, palm kernel oil, chocolate, and
some prepared foods.
Saturated fatty acids appear in different proportions among food groups. Lauric and
myristic acid radicals are most commonly found in "tropical" oils (e.g. palm kernel,
coconut) and dairy products. The saturated fat in meat, eggs, chocolate, and nuts is
primarily the triglycerides of palmitic and stearic acid.

Unsaturated Fats
An unsaturated fat is a fat or fatty acid in which there is at least one double bond within
the fatty acid chain. A fat molecule is monounsaturated if it contains one double bond,
and polyunsaturated if it contains more than one double bond. Where double bonds are
formed, hydrogen atoms are eliminated. In cellular metabolism hydrogen-carbon bonds
are broken down or oxidized to produce energy, thus an unsaturated fat molecule
contains somewhat less energy (i.e fewer calories) than a comparably-sized saturated
fat. The greater the degree of unsaturation in a fatty acid (ie, the more double bonds in
the fatty acid), the more vulnerable it is to lipid peroxidation (rancidity). Antioxidants can
protect unsaturated fat from lipid peroxidation.

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Fatty Acids
Fatty Acids are defined as any of a class of aliphatic monocarboxylic acids that form part of a
lipid molecule and can be derived from fat by hydrolysis; fatty acids are simple molecules built
around a series of carbon atoms linked together in a chain of 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
In soap-making, Fatty Acids refers to the various base oils used including, but not limited to,
Apricol Kernal Oil, Avocado Oil, Canola Oil, Castor Oil, Coconut Oil, Hemp Oil, Olive Oil, Palm
Kernal Oil, Palm Oil, Rice Bran Oil, Safflower Oil, Soybean Oil, Sunflower Oil, Sweet Almond
Oil, and the like.
Free Fatty Acids ("FFA") are fatty acids that are not attached to other molecules. FFA's may
result from the breakdown of a material, such as triglyceride, into its components.

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FCC (Food Chemicals Codex)

FCC, an acronym meaning Food Chemicals Codex, is the accepted standard for defining the
quality of food-grade additives and chemicals in terms of identity, strength, and purity based on
the elements of safety and good manufacturing practices. The FCC project is an activity of the
Food and Nutrition Board of the Institute of Medicine, supported by the U.S. Food and Drug
Administration. Following the passage of the Food Additives amendments to the federal Food,
Drug, and Cosmetic Act in 1958, the Food Protection Committee of the Food and Nutrition
Board of the National Academy of Sciences-National Research Council, received requests from
its Industry Liaison Board and other sources to undertake a project to produce a Food
Chemicals Codex. The First Edition of the resulting Food Chemicals Codex, which was
published in 1966, was limited to chemicals that are added directly to foods to achieve a
desired technological function. Succeeding editions upgraded the specifications for these
substances and added specifications for substances that come into contact with foods and
some that are regarded as foods, rather than as additives. To date, five editions of the Food
Chemicals Codex (1966, 1972, 1981, 1996, and 2003) have been published.
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Flammable Liquid
The term Flammable is defined differently by various U.S. Government agencies. The U.S.
Occupational Health and Safety Administration (OSHA) defines a flammable liquid as any
liquid having a flash point below 100 deg. F. (37.8 deg. C.), except any mixture having
components with Flashpoints of 100 deg. F. (37.8 deg. C.) or higher, the total of which make up
99 percent or more of the total volume of the mixture. Flammable liquids shall be known as
Class I liquids.
OSHA divides flammable (and combustible) liquids into several classes. Refer
to 29CFR1910.106for further information. See also Dangerous Goods for information on the
shipment of Hazardous Material.
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Flashpoint
Flashpoint is the lowest temperature at which a flammable liquid gives off sufficient vapor to
be ignitable. This does not necessarily mean that the vapor will ignite.
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Fragrance Industry Ingredients

The Fragrance Industry, through its representative organization, the International Fragrance
Association ("IFRA") has published a Fragrance Industry Ingredients List used in consumer
goods by their customers worldwide for the purposes of transparency.
IFRAs Safety Program establishes safe use for fragrance materials. The IFRA Code of
Practiceand the IFRA Standards are based on risk assessments and may prohibit or restrict the
use of fragrance materials in consumer goods if there is concern for human health or the
environment. The Code of Practice and the Standards must be adhered to by all IFRA affiliated
member companies. Adherence is enforced through the IFRA Compliance Program.
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FO (Fragrance Oil)
An FO, or fragrance oil, are blended synthetic aroma compounds or natural essential oils that
are diluted with a carrier like propylene glycol, vegetable oil, or mineral oil. Also known as
aroma oils, aromatic oils, and flavor oils, FO's are used in perfumery, cosmetics, flavoring of
food, and in aromatherapy.
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Fragrance Notes
It is impossible to describe a fragrance according to its components because the exact
formulas are kept secret. Even if the formulas are known, the ingredients are often too
numerous to provide a useful classification. On the other hand, it is possible to group
fragrances into scent families and describe them through the notes that appear as they slowly
evaporate.
Top Notes: scents that are perceived immediately on application of a fragrance
oil or perfume ("Fragrance"). Top notes create the scents that form a person's initial
impression of the Fragrance. Because of this, they are very important in the selling of a
Fragrance. The scents of this note class are usually described as "fresh," "assertive" or
"sharp." The compounds that contribute to top notes are strong in scent, very volatile,
and evaporate quickly. Citrus and ginger scents are common top notes.
Heart Notes or Middle Notes: The scent of a Fragrance that emerges after
the top notes dissipate. The heart note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a
Fragrance and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which
become more pleasant with time. Not surprisingly, the scent of heart note compounds
is usually more mellow and "rounded." Scents from this note class appear anywhere
from 2 minutes to 1 hour after the application of a Fragrance. Lavender and rose
scents are typical heart notes. Top notes and heart notes are sometimes described
together as Head notes.
Base Notes: The scent of a Fragrance that appears after the departure of the
top notes. The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a Fragrance.
Base notes bring depth and solidness to a Fragrance. Compounds of this class are
often the fixatives used to hold and boost the strength of the lighter top and heart
notes. The compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and "deep" and are
usually not perceived until 30 minutes after the application of the Fragrance or during
the period of Fragrance dry-down. Musk, vetiver and scents of plant resins are
commonly used as base notes.

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GRAS
GRAS is an acronym meaning Generally Regarded As Safe.
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HLB System
HLB is an acronym meaning Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance, a system for measuring the
degree to which a non-ionic surfactant is either hydrophilic or lipophilic, determined by
calculating values from different regions of the molecule, as described by the system's inventor,
William C. Griffin.
The HLB system facilitates optimum performance of emulsion applications including combining
dissimilar oils; formulating water-in-oil emulsions; wetting powders into oils; formulating oil-inwater emulsions; and formulating detergent solutions.
The HLB System works in accordance with the formula:

HLB = 20 * Mh / M
where
Mh is the molecular mass of the hydrophilic portion of the Molecule,
and
M is the molecular mass of the whole molecule,
...giving the result on an arbitrary scale of 0 to 20. Thus, an HLB value of 0
corresponds to a completely hydrophobic molecule, and a value of 20
corresponds to a molecule made up completely of hydrophilic components.
The HLB value can be used to predict the surfactant properties of a molecule:

HLB Value

Surfactant Properties

0-3

anti-foaming agents

4-6

W/O emulsifiers

7-9

wetting agents

8 - 12

O/W emulsifiers

13 - 15

detergents

16 - 18

solubilisers or hydrotropes

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Hazardous Materials Identification System (HMIS)

HMIS (Hazardous Materials Identification System) is a numerical hazard rating that
incorporates the use of labels with color-coded bars as well as training materials. It was
developed by the National Paint & Coatings Association (NPCA) as a compliance aid for
the OSHA Hazard Communication Standard.
For additional information and use guidance, click here.
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Hydrosol
Hydrosol, also sometimes referred to as floral water, hydrolate, herbal water, essential water,
and herbal distillates, are aqueous solutions or colloidal suspensions of essential oils usually
obtained by steam distillation from aromatic plants. These herbal distillates have uses as
flavorings, medicine and in skin care.
Hydrosols are produced in the same manner as essential oils. However, the essential oil will
float to the top of the distillate where it is removed, leaving behind the watery distillate. For this
reason perhaps the term essential water is more descript. In the past, these essential waters
were considered a byproduct of distillation, but now are considered an important co-product.
Hydrosols contain many of the beneficial elements from essential oils but in a less
concentrated, safer form. Besides aromatic chemicals, these distillates also contain many of
the plant acids making them skin friendly. With a pH of 5-to-6 they are great to use as facial
toners. Cosmeticsand toiletries makers are finding many uses for hydrosols. They can be used
alone as toners or room sprays. Distillates are also used as flavorings and curables.
Popular hydrosols include rose water, lavender water, lemon balm, clary sage and orange
blossom water. The use of hydrosols in cosmetics is increasing.
Because hydrosols are produced at high temperatures and are somewhat acidic, they tend to
inhibit bacterial growth. They are not however sterile. They are a fresh product, like milk, and
should be kept refrigerated.
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Hydroxyl Value
Hydroxyl Value is a measure of hydroxyl (univalent OH) groups in an organic material.
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International Code of Botanical Nomenclature (ICBN)

The International Code of Botanical Nomenclature (ICBN) is the set of rules and
recommendations dealing with the formal botanical names that are given to plants. Its intent is
that each taxonomic group ("taxon", plural "taxa") of plants has only one correct name,
accepted worldwide. The value of a scientific name is that it is a label: it is not necessarily of
descriptive value, or even accurate.
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International Fragrance Association (IFRA)

IFRA, the International Fragrance Association, was established in 1973 and is the official
representative body of the fragrance industry worldwide. It's main purpose is to ensure the
safety of fragrance materials. This is accomplished through implementation of a list of approved
fragrance ingredients employed under a strict Code of Practice.
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INCI
INCI is an acronym for International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient and is a system for
naming cosmetic ingredients. It is a multilingual, multinational system based on Latin.
Ingredient listing on cosmetic product, using the INCI system, is required by law in several
countries around the world.
The INCI system was designed in 1973, and developed over a period of more than 25 years. It
was created by the CTFA's International Nomenclature Committee and the INCI system forms
the basis of the ICI Dictionary and Handbook. The ICI Dictionary and Handbook presents, in
detail, the bulk of INCI names juxtaposed with their corresponding empirical chemical formulas,
technical/trade names, Chemical Abstracts System numbers (CAS No.), or alternate numbers
and this allows for the unambiguous identification of ingredients.
The current INCI nomenclature system is distributed in multiple volumes and encompass all
ingredients and classes of ingredients that are used in cosmetic products. The primary
objective of the INCI system is to standardize the technical names of ingredients found in
cosmetics and to keep the need for alternative labeling names to a minimum. The current INCI
dictionary contains approximately 12,000 INCI names and the corresponding 55,000 trade and
technical names. The INCI system contains all that is required for naming and labeling
ingredients used by the cosmetics industry and has become necessary and sufficient in the
cosmetics field.
For the purpose of identifying chemical compounds, which are used as ingredients in
cosmetics, INCI ingredient names are predominantly based upon the terminology created by
the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC). INCI names are a contraction
of IUPAC names, which are based on Latin and are recognized as multilingual. IUPAC was
developed by an international, scientific and non-governmental body that was formed in 1919,
by chemists from both industry and academia. This organization has united the international
chemical sciences community (academic, industrial and public sector) by creating a common
language for chemistry. IUPAC is recognized as the world authority on chemical nomenclature

and terminology.
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Iodine Value
Iodine Value is a measure of the unsaturation of fats and oils and is expressed in terms of the
number of centrigrams of iodine absorbed per gram of sample (% iodine absorbed).
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JCID
JCID is an acronym for the Japanese Cosmetics Ingredients Directory, a publication of the
Japanese Cosmetics Ingredients Association.
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KOH Value
KOH Value is a value that, when multiplied by the amount of the item used (expressed in the
unit of measure shown), will result in the amount of potassium hydroxide (KOH) required to be
combined with the item to saponify them (see also SAP Value and NaOH Value).
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Lipids
Lipids are a broad group of naturally-occurring molecules which includes fats, waxes, sterols,
fat-soluble vitamins (such as vitamins A, D, E and K), monoglycerides, diglycerides,
phospholipids, and others. The main biological functions of lipids include energy storage, as
structural components of cell membranes, and as important signaling molecules.
Although the term lipid is sometimes used as a synonym for fats, fats are a subgroup of lipids
called triglycerides. Lipids also encompass molecules such as fatty acids and their derivatives
(including monoglycerides, diglycerides, triglycerides and phospholipids), as well as other
sterol-containing metabolites such as cholesterol. Although humans and other mammals use
various biosynthetic pathways to both break down and synthesize lipids, some essential lipids
cannot be made this way and must be obtained from the diet.
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Lovibond Color
Lovibond Color refers to the calibrated output measurement of color using the Lovibond
comparator, a colorimeter (a color-measuring device) invented by Joseph Williams Lovibond in
the 19th century, and currently manufactured by The Tinometer Ltd.
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Melting Point
Melting Point is the temperature at which a solid becomes a liquid at standard atmospheric
pressure.
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Miscibility
Miscibility is the ability or tendency of one liquid to mix or blend uniformly with another and
form a single homogeneous phase. Alcohol is miscible in water; gasoline and water are
immiscible. When two substances are immiscible they will form separate phases when mixed;
the best known example is oil and water.
See also Solubility, often used in the same sense in reference to liquids.
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NaOH Value
NaOH Value is the value that, when multiplied by the amount of the item used (expressed in
the unit of measure shown), will result in the amount of Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) required to
be combined with the item to saponify them (see also SAP Value and KOH Value).
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Neat
Neat means to apply undiluted, directly on skin.
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Non-Volatile Content
Non-Volatile Content is the portion of a material that remains after volatile matter has been
evaporated under specified ambient or accelerated conditions .
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Oil
An oil is any substance that is liquid at ambient temperature, is hydrophobic but soluble in
organic solvents, and can be traced back to it's organic sources. Oils also have a high carbon
and hydrogen content and are nonpolar substances. Examples are essential oils,
petrochemical oils, and vegetable oils.
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OSI (Oil Stability Index)

The Oil Stability Index is a quality assurance test method for determining the induction period
of an oil.
All oils and fats have a resistance to oxidation which depends on the degree of saturation,
natural or added antioxidants, prooxidants, or prior abuse. Oxidation is slow until this resistance
is overcome at which time oxidation accelerates and becomes very rapid thereafter. This length
of time before this rapid acceleration of oxidation is the measure of the resistance to oxidation
and is commonly referred to as the "induction period."
In this test a stream of purified air is passed through a test sample of oil or fat which is held in a
thermostated bath. The effluent air from the oil or fat test sample is then bubbled through a
vessel containing deionized water. The conductivity of the water is continually monitored. The
effluent air contains volatile organic acids, swept from the oxidizing oil, that increase the
conductivity of the water as oxidation proceeds. Formic acid is the predominant organic acid
formed. The conductivity of the water is monitored by a computer or strip chart recorder.
OSI is defined as the point of maximum change of the rate of oxidation. This time-based end
point may be determined by a computer that can calculate the maximum of the second
derivative with respect to time, or by a slope-change algorithm, which is similar to detecting the
onset of peaks for integration of GLC chromatograms. The end point may be approximated by
using other methods. One commonly used approximation is a graphic method in which
tangents are drawn manually (see Fig. 2). The OSI may be run at temperatures of 100, 110,
120, 130, and 140C. Because by its nature this analysis has this temperature flexibility, all OSI
results specify the OSI time, with the analysis temperature reported immediately after (for
example, OSI, 11.7 hours at 110C).
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Performance
An oil's characteristics straight out of the bottle are rarely identical in a manufactured endproduct. Thus, a fragrance must be advance-tested to learn how it will change during and after
being subjected to the manufacturing processes of the various end-products in which it will be
used. Part of our service is to perform some of these tests and provide reasonable, if limited,
performance guidance to our customers.
To that end, we test all of our fragrance oils (except Value-Line Fragrances), primarily in coldprocess ("CP") soap. We are also testing an increased number of our fragrances in soy wax
candles and, sometimes, in a cream or lotion base as well. We chose CP soap as our primary
test product because the chemical and environmental impact of the saponification process is
the toughest on fragrances.
CP soap testing is performed using several standardized recipes, including an all-veggie recipe
(palm, coconut, shea, olive, etc) and a tallow recipe (palm kernel, shea, rice bran, etc).
Finished CP soap test products are allowed to cure for a minimum of 6 weeks, some for much
longer.Fragrance oils are then evaluated.
We rate each fragrance for it's key CP soap characteristics including...

scent strength
acceleration
discoloration
fading; and
morphing.

We follow a standardized 5-point scale for grading scent strength in CP soap and soy candle
testing. Specific terms are used to identify the finished product scent performance
characteristics as follows:

Scent
Strength
Scale

CP Soap

Soy Candle

Powerful

Outstanding or Excellent

Very Strong

Very Good

Strong

Good

N/A[1]

N/A[1]

N/A[1]

N/A[1]

Additional Terms

Fading

a weakening in intensity of a fragrance compared to it's

original strength out of bottle (OOB).

Morphing

Short for metamorphosis, the term describes the change

of fragrance character upon application.

[1] We do not sell fragrance oils with performance level below a 3 rating.
[2] Only basic elements (lye, oils, water) are used in these recipes (no special additives, colorants or the like).

User Note: our commentaries are intended to provide only limited guidance for use and results
may vary according to individual recipe.
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Peroxide Value
Peroxide Value is a measure of the extent of fat or oil oxidation of a substance by measuring
the amount of peroxides present. Peroxides are intermediate compounds formed during the
oxidation of lipids which may react further to form the compounds that can cause rancidity.
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pH
pH, an acronym meaning potential of hydrogen, is the logarithm of the reciprocal of the
measure of hydrogen-ion concentration in gram-atoms per liter of a solution. The pH Scale
provides a measure, on a scale from 0 to 14, of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution; where 7 is
neutral (e.g., water), below 7 is increasing acidic, and above 7 is increasingly alkaline (basic).
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Pour Point
Pour Point is the lowest temperature at which an oil or other liquid will pour under prescribed
conditions when it is chilled without disturbance at a fixed rate.
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Refractive Index
Refractive Index is a measure of how much the speed of light (or other waves, such as sound
waves) is reduced by passing through a medium. Used as one of the primary objective test
procedures to determine the quality of essential (and other oils). Deviations from established
(published) data are indicative of adulteration.
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Research Institute for Fragrance Materials ("RIFM")

RIFM was formed as a nonprofit corporation in 1966 to gather and analyze scientific data,
engage in testing and evaluation, distribute information, cooperate with official agencies and to
encourage uniform safety standards related to the use of fragrance ingredients.
The RIFM Database of flavor and fragrance materials is the largest available worldwide,

classifying more than 5000 materials. The database is available online, 24/7, by subscription.
RIFM's Database also houses an online collection of Flavor/Fragrance Ingredient Data Sheets
(FFIDS) from 1985-present. FFIDSs are issued to assist with compliance for U.S. OSHA's
Hazard Communication Standards and the European Commission's Dangerous Substances
Directives.
All of RIFM's research is reviewed by an independent Expert Panel, an international group of
dermatologists, pathologists, toxicologists environmental and respiratory scientists that have no
commercial ties to the fragrance industry. The Expert Panel advises RIFM on its strategic
approach, reviews protocols and evaluates all scientific findings. Their conclusions form the
basis for the Standards set by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA).
RIFM's staff scientists reach out to the international fragrance industry about progress in
environmental testing, respiratory research and skin sensitivity testing through electronic
bulletins, publication of the latest results in peer-reviewed scientific publications and by inperson presentations at professional societies, individual companies, government agencies,
and industry committee and association meetings.
RIFM is relied upon as the most comprehensive resource for safe use and exposure
information on fragrance materials. RIFM is the cost effective solution for safety research and
testing.
RIFM delivers well-documented conclusions from comprehensive analysis that translates into
enhanced Product Management for its members, resulting in safer and more life enriching
products for the consumer. Membership in RIFM is open to all companies that manufacture,
sell, distribute or engage in business related to the fragrance industry for at least one year.
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Saponification
Saponification is the alkaline (or base-) hydrolysis of fats which produces an alcohol
(glycerol), and the sodium or potassium salt of a carboxylic acid, more commonly referred to as
soap.
The bases most commonly used are sodium hydroxide (NaOH), used to form a hard soap; or
potassium hydroxide (KOH), used to form a soft soap. The acids most commonly used
arevegetable oils and/or animal fats, which are fatty esters in the form of triglycerides. Through
the process of heating and agitation, the alkali breaks the ester bond and releases the fatty
acid and glycerol.
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SAP value
SAPonification Value is the amount of alkali necessary to saponify a definite quantity of a
substance. It is commonly expressed as the number of milligrams of potassium hydroxide
(KOH), or Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH), required to saponify 1 gram of the substance.
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Scent Strength
Scent Strength refers to the relative power of a scent compared to other fragrances within a
given class of aromatic oils. It is generally inappropriate to compare fragrances of different
classes. Thus, you wouldn't compare a light, ethereal scent to a sharp, fruity one; etc., etc.
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Shelf Life
Shelf Life is the recommended length of time, from the date of manufacture or shipment, that
a product can be relied upon to retain it's quality characteristics, under the specified storage
conditions, after which time the product can become unsuitable for use or consumption.
A product's shelf life or safe storage time of a product, is affected by a number of variables,
including intrinsic parameters (such as pH and moisture content) and extrinsic parameters
(such as environmental factors).
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Solubility
Solubility is the ability of a material to dissolve in water or another liquid. Solubility may be
expressed as a ratio or described using words such as insoluble, very soluble or miscible
(seeMiscibility).
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Specific Gravity
Specific Gravity (or relative density) is the ratio of the density (mass per unit volume) of a
substance to the density of a given reference material (specific gravity usually means
relativedensity with respect to water). If a substance's specific gravity is < 1.00 then it is less
dense than the reference; if > 1.00 then it is denser than the reference; and if exactly equal to
1.00 then the densities are the same. With water as the reference, specific gravities of < 1.00
will float in water and those > 1.00 will sink.
Temperature and pressure must be specified for both the sample and the reference. For the
purposes of all specifications on this website, the pressure is always assumed to be 1
atmosphere (14.696 psi).
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Stability
Stability is the ability of a material to remain unchanged in the presence of heat, moisture or
air. An unstable material may decompose, polymerize, burn or explode under normal
environmental conditions. Any indication that the material is unstable gives warning that special
handling and storage precautions may be necessary.
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Trace
Trace, is the first and most critical milestone in the Saponification process.
The start of Trace, called Light Trace, is the first visual evidence of the chemical reaction. It is
evident by the slight thickening of the acid-water-base mixture (which will look smooth and
glossy) to a consistency sometimes described as a thin custard. The mixture will be still quite
liquidy at this point. Some soap-makers prefer to pour their soap mixture into molds at Light
Trace. The stage of Full Trace, sometimes called Heavy Trace, is reached when the soap
mixture has thickened considerably.
To test for Trace, dip a spatula or spoon into the soap mixture and dribble a bit of it back into
the mixing pot. If it leaves a visual trace of the dribblings behind, then Trace has been reached
and, hence, it's name. Light Trace occurs when the trail, though evident, disappears quickly
back into the mixture and, Heavy Trace, when the trail lingers longer.
With the use of different fats and mixtures requiring varying heating and mixing cycles, etc., it is
impractical to subscribe to a more accurate definition than the visual/physical attributes
described herein.
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Trace Elements
In analytical chemistry, a trace element is an element in a sample that has an average
concentration of less than 100 parts per million (i.e., 0.01%) measured in atomic count, or less
than 100 micrograms per gram.
Of significant concern are those trace elements which can cause ill effects to organisms and
the environment including, especially, heavy metals. Living organisms require varying amounts
of heavy metals. Iron (Fe), cobalt (Co), copper (Cu), manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), and
zinc (Zn) are required by humans. Excessive levels can be damaging to the body. Other heavy
metals such as mercury (Hg), plutonium (Pu), and lead (Pb) are toxic metals and their
accumulation in the bodies of animals over time can cause serious illness. Certain elements
that are normally toxic can be beneficial for certain organisms and under certain conditions.
Examples include vanadium (V), tungsten (W), and even cadmium (Cd).
Heavy metals occur naturally in the ecosystem with large variations in concentration. In modern
times, anthropogenic sources of heavy metals, i.e. pollution, have been introduced to the
ecosystem. The determination of trace elements in edible oils is important because of both the
metabolic role of metals and possibilities for adulteration detection and oil characterization.

Heavy metals pollution has become of considerable concern since some of them are
dangerous to health and/or the environment (e.g., Hg, Cd, As, Pb, Cr), some may cause
corrosion (e.g., Zn, Pb), and some are harmful in other ways (e.g., arsenic may pollute
catalysts). Some of these elements are necessary for humans, though in minute amounts (Co,
Cu, Cr, Ni), while others are carcinogenic or toxic, affecting, among others, the central nervous
system (Hg, Pb, As); the kidneys or liver (Hg, Pb, Cd, Cu); or skin, bones and/or teeth (Ni, Cd,
Cu, Cr).
In testing for these "heavy metals," solvent-diluted oils are analyzed for the elements by direct
aspiration. The most commonly used techniques for the determination of metals in oil samples
are inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometry (ICP-AES) and atomic
absorption spectrometry (AAS).
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Unsaponifiable Matter
Unsaponifiable matter are those substances frequently found dissolved in fatty acids and drying
oils which cannot be saponified by caustic treatment, but which are soluble in normal fat
solvents. Included are the higher aliphatic alcohols, sterols, pigments, and hydrocarbons.
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Vegetable Oils
Vegetable fats and oils are lipid materials derived from plants. Physically, oils are liquid at room
temperature and fats are solid. Chemically, both fats and oils are composed of triglycerides, as
contrasted with waxes which lack glycerin in their structure. Many different parts of plants may
yield oil.
The melting temperature distinction between oils and fats is imprecise, since definitions of room
temperature vary, and typically natural oils have a melting range instead of a single melting
point since natural oils are not chemically homogenous. Although thought of as esters of
glycerin and a varying blend of fatty acids, fats and oils also typically contain free fatty acids,
mono- and di-glycerides, and unsaponifiable lipids.
Vegetable fats and oils may be edible or inedible. Examples of inedible vegetable fats and oils
include processed linseed oil, tung oil, and castor oil used in lubricants, paints, cosmetics,
pharmaceuticals, and other industrial purposes.
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Viscosity
Viscosity is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow. Low viscosity fluids flow easily (alcohol,
water); high viscosity fluids pour slowly (molasses). See Absolute Viscosity and Kinematic
Viscosity below.
Absolute Viscosity.

Absolute Viscosity is ordinarily expressed in terms of the force required for a standard
quantity of the fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. Since viscosity
varies inversely with temperature, its value is meaningless unless accompanied by the
temperature at which it is determined. Absolute Viscosity is commonly expressed in centipoise
(cP).
Kinematic Viscosity.
Kinematic Viscosity is a measure of the Absolute Viscosity of a fluid divided by the fluid's
density. Kinematic Viscosity is commonly expressed in centistokes (cSt). Like Absolute
Viscosity, the value of Kinematic Viscosity is meaningless unless accompanied by the
temperature at which is is determined.
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Volatility
Volatility is a measure of how quickly a substance forms a vapor (i.e., evaporates) at ordinary
temperatures.
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