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Fashion times 18
MILAN
he in-house design team behind the Gianfranco Ferré
T menswear show took the runway element out of the
fashion equation, deciding to present all 18 of its looks at
once on a raised white dais in the center of a starkly empty
room.
It was a wise decision for, at first blush, the collection
came across as standard menswear fare in dark, neutral,
river stone colors. By giving the audience a close look at the
line, it focused the eye on the underlying craftsmanship
that is hard to spot while seated at a catwalk show.
Touch the handwoven mohair suit that has been treated
to keep the wearer cool in the hot summer months. Stroke
the polyester jacket lined in pashmina that skims the body.
Spot the embossed leather details, string-thin belts and
kangaroo pocket on a seemingly innocuous knit sweater.
The general feel of the collection, with its subtle
pinstripe suits paired with lightweight knits and weekend
wear of semi-sheer tops and relaxed pants, was casually
elegant and well in keeping with the codes of the house that
Ferré built. — Jessica Michault
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD