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Ciba Specialty Chemicals

Ciba TINOSORB S
The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV absorber

Personal Care

Value beyond chemistry

Ciba TINOSORB S
The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV absorber

Photostable
Compatible with other UV filters
Synergy with UV-B filters
Stabilizes other UV filters
Oil soluble

Ciba Tinosorb S

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

Contents
Why photoprotection?

Effect of UV radiation on humans

Photostable broad-spectrum UV absorbers

Photostable UV absorption

Product data

10

Chemical data, Specifications


Absorption spectrum, Structure of TINOSORB S
Solubility

10
11
12

Performance efficacy

14

UV-A protection In vivo


UV-A assessment In vitro
TINOSORB M and TINOSORB S, the ideal couple
Combinations with UV-B filters
Photo-stabilizing effect on BMBM

14
15
16
17
17

Safety

18

Environment

19

Product registration

20

Patents

20

References

21

Recommendations for use

22

Formulary

23

Ciba Tinosorb S

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

Ciba TINOSORB S
great daytime protection

Ciba Tinosorb S

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

Ciba TINOSORB S
TINOSORB S
introduces a new chemistry to the market of cosmetic UV absorbers. The extraordinary photostability
of HydroxyPhenylTriazine (HPT) chemistry is due to the
dissipation of harmful UV radiation into harmless heat.

TINOSORB S
was specifically designed to meet the needs of the
cosmetic industry. Besides the excellent performance
as a photostable broad-spectrum UV filter, it is
compatible with organic and inorganic filters, meets
the high safety requirements and is oil soluble for high
water resistance.

TINOSORB S
is a highly efficient broad-spectrum filter. It provides
excellent UV-A protection to serve as a basis for UV
protective day creams and shows synergistic effects
with UV-B filters for high-SPF sunscreens.

Ciba Tinosorb S

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

Why photoprotection?
It is now generally accepted that a sunscreen should
provide broad-spectrum UV-B and UV-A protection.

Effects of UV radiation on humans


Solar radiation in the range of infrared is perceived as heat, in the visible as color, and in
the ultraviolet as the result of photobiological reactions. Such reactions may ultimately
stimulate melanine production and tanning,
or lead to altered genetic information and to
aberrant cell behavior.
The fact that radiation energy increases with
a decrease in wavelength, and that longer
wavelengths are less scattered by an object also holds true for UV radiation (UVR).
Short wave UVR is more likely to induce
photochemical reactions. Long-wave UVR
will penetrate deeper into the skin. Hence,
the biological effects induced by UVR may
change with the wavelength.
In consequence, and based on empirical
observation, the spectrum of ultraviolet light
with a wavelength between 100 nm and
400 nm has been divided into three different ranges: UV-C, UV-B and UV-A.

TINOSORB S

great daytime protection

Ciba Tinosorb S

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

Penetration of UV radiation into the skin


Wavelength (nm)

200

Spectrum of the sun

290 320
UV-C

UV-B

400
UV-A

800
Visible light

Infrared

Stratosphere

Biosphere

Skin

Stratum Corneum
Epidermis

Dermis

Hypodermis

UV-C (wavelengths between


100 290 nm). UV-C has no
direct physiological impact
since it is absorbed by the
ozone layer. Irradiation with
UV-C sources has confirmed
the wavelength-dependence
of UV damage.

UV-A (wavelengths between 320 400 nm).


UV-A radiation penetrates down to the dermal layers
of the skin. It stimulates tanning and pigmentation
and relates to skin aging, and skin cancers such
as melanoma. UV-A may act in an indirect way by
creating free radicals and reactive oxygen species[1].

UV-B (wavelengths between 290 320 nm).


UV-B radiation stimulates the production of Vitamin D.
It affects especially the epidermal layer of the skin, where it causes
erythema (sunburn). Frequent and intense exposure to UV-B
induces lesions on the DNA and modulates the immune response
of the skin. In turn, UV-B enhances the risk of fatal mutations
eventually leading to skin cancer and reduces the chance that a
malignantly transformed cell is recognized and destroyed[2].

The chance of developing permanent damage increases with the dose of sunlight accumulated over a life time. The risk of detrimental UV induced effects depends upon
the accumulated dose and not only on the
UV wavelength. This holds especially true in
the context of exposure to natural sunlight
where UV-A contributes to about 95% and
UV-B only to 5% of the radiation. UV related
health hazards can be minimized by proper
protection and shielding. Sun protective
agents have been on the market for more
than 70 years. They were first developed
to protect the skin against sunburn, i. e. to
shield the skin preferentially from UV-B and
to permit tanning by UV-A. Conventional sun

protection factors (SPF) still relate to the protection from UV induced erythema[3]. With
the growing awareness of UV-A damage accumulating the risks for the development of
melanoma and other tumors, it became obvious that to reduce the risk of sun exposurerelated cancers the skin must be protected
not only from UV-B but from the whole
UV-A/ UV-B range[4,5]. In consequence, a new
concept has evolved: an efficient sunscreen
should not only prevent sunburn, but also
minimize the accumulation of all radiation
induced damage in the skin that increase
the risk of fatal alterations[6-8]. UV protection
means conversion of the radiation energy of
sunlight into a harmless form.
Ciba Tinosorb S

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

Photostable broad-spectrum
UV absorbers
Requirements for sunscreens

With the knowledge about the damaging


effect of UV radiation the requirements for
sunscreens and their actives, the UV absorbers have changed.
Modern sunscreens should be:
protecting against UVA and UVB-radiation
providing a high Sun Protection
Factor (SPF)
photostable
water resistant
cosmetically elegant
non-toxic

Requirements for cosmetic


UV absorbers

UV absorbers for cosmetics should be chemically and photochemically inert. If they are
not, chemical bonds may be rearranged leading to new molecules, the UV absorbance of
which might be diminished or even lost, and
the toxicological properties may be altered.
Radicals may react to form reactive oxygen
species leading to biological damage. Moreover, fluorescence and phosphorescence,
though not dangerous, are not desirable.
Therefore, the light energy absorbed by UV
filters (if not scattered or reflected) should be
transformed into harmless thermal energy.

Cosmetic UV filters with extremely high photostability


Benzophenone-3

Examples

TINOSORB M

TINOSORB S
OR

OH

HO

OH
N

OCH3

OH

N
R

RO

OR

Hydroxyphenyl-Triazines
Benzotriazoles
Benzophenones

1950

1960

1970

1980

1990

2000

Ciba Specialty Chemicals: a tradition of photoprotection


Ciba Specialty Chemicals has a tradition of
developing and manufacturing photostable
UV absorbers for material protection. In industries such as plastics and coatings, requirement for photostability of the UV absorbers
is measured in years rather than hours like in
sunscreens. In materials protection 3 classes

Ciba Tinosorb S

of UV-A/B absorber proved to meet these extreme requirement: Benzophenones, Benzotriazoles and HydroxyPhenylTriazines (HPT).
With the introduction of TINOSORB S, the
latest technology is now also being used in
the cosmetic industry.

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

Year

Photo-stable UV absorption
Mechanism of dissipation
of UV-energy into heat

Energy dissipation cycle

Energy

Isomerization

Absorption

S1
Vibronic
relaxation

Isomerization

S0
Ground state S0
N-H O

N H-O

Intramolecular H-transfer

Structure of TINOSORB S

OCH3

Absorption of UV light promotes organic


molecules from the electronic ground singlet
state S0 into an excited electronic state (S1 or
higher). There are different ways to dissipate
this energy.
The most important energy dissipation
mode is internal conversion followed by vibronic relaxation. In contrast to the energy
of excited electrons, vibrational energy can
be dissipated into heat via collisions with the
surrounding medium. The electronic excitation of the UV absorber can be transferred
into vibrations via an intramolecular process
called internal conversion. The probability
for internal conversion is strongly enhanced
when the molecule in its excited electronic
state can switch between isomeric structures
such as by cis/trans-isomerization or by intramolecular H-transfer[9]. The latter is the case
for TINOSORB S.
UVR is absorbed and leads to the excited state
S1. Within a very short time, in the order of
1012 seconds, isomerization takes place. During this short time span no other chemical reactions can be triggered. After the energy is
dissipated vibronically, isomerization back to
the original ground state S0 takes place. This
isomerization is also referred to as photo-tautomerism. The structural elements involved
are indicated in the lower figure.

N
O

O
Photo-Tautomerism
Duration 10-12 sec
No Radical Formation

Ciba Tinosorb S

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

Product data
The TINOSORB S represents the latest chemistry with the highest
performance and photostability, especially designed for the need
of the cosmetic industry.

Chemical data
Chemical Name

2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6(4-methoxyphenyl)-(1,3,5)-triazine

INCI name

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT)

COLIPA no.

S 81

CAS no.
Molecular formula
Molecular mass
Melting point
Solubility
Photostability

103597-45-1
C38H49N3O5
627,80 g/mol
80 C
Oil soluble (page 12/13)
Stable over 50 MED (Minimal Erythemal Dose)
according to the method of Berset et al[10,11]

Specifications
Appearance
Odor

Trace characteristic odor

Assay

97.0%

Absorbance
E (1%, 1cm)
Use/concentration

10

Ciba Tinosorb S

Light yellow powder

790 (in iso-propanol)


Sunscreen products/max. 10%

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

Absorption spectrum
UV-spectrum of TINOSORB S

900

E (1%, 1cm)

UV spectrum of TINOSORB S recorded using


a Perkin Elmer Lambda 16 Spectrometer.
The broad-spectrum is due to the special
design of the TINOSORB S molecule.

TINOSORB S

600

TINOSORB M

300

280

320

300

380

360
340
Wavelenghth/nm

400

Extinction of 1% active ingredient at an optical


path length of 1cm

Structural formula
Molecular design for UV-B and UV-A
absorption and good oil solubility

The whole TINOSORB S molecule is fully


conjugated across the triazine center. The
asymmetry is responsible for two absorption
peaks, one in the UV-B and one in the UV-A
range, which results in the broad-spectrum
characteristics. This molecule has also been
designed for optimal solubility in cosmetic
oils, by the two Ethylhexyl-substituents[12].

TINOSORB S: Molecular design

UV-B

OCH3

OH

HO

N
O

For good Oil Solubility

Ciba Tinosorb S

UV-A

For good Oil Solubility

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

11

Solubility
Solubility of TINOSORB S in cosmetic solvents/ingredients (at T = 25C)

UV-Absorbers
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamte (TINOSORB OMC)

17%

Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate (Neo Heliopan E 1000)

23%

Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA (Escalol 507)

20%

Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Eusolex OS)

20%

Octocrylene (Eusolex OCR)

3%

Pyrrolidones
Caprylyl Pyrrolidone (Surfadone LP100)

20%

Lauryl Pyrrolidone (Surfadone LP300)

21%

Ethers
Methylene Dimethylether (Methylal)

40%

Isosorbide Dimethylether (Arlasolve DMI)

6%

Dicaprylyl Ether (Cetiol OE)

2%

Carboxylic acid esters

12

Ciba Tinosorb S

Isodecyl Salicylate (Dermol IDSA)

18%

Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ)

14%

Butyloctyl Salicylate (Hallbrite BHB)

11%

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (Cetiol LC)

5%

Hexyl Laurate (Cetiol A)

6%

Isopropyl Myristate (Tegosoft M)

6%

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (Crodamol PC)

7%

Isopropyl Palmitate (Tegosoft P)

5%

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

Dicarboxylic acid esters


Diethylhexyl Succinate (Crodamol OSU)

7%

Diethylhexyl Adipate (Crodamol DOA)

9%

Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol CC)

9%

Diisopropyl Sebacate (DUB DIS)

7%

Dicaprylyl Maleate (Bernel Ester DCM)

7%

Benzoic acid esters


C12C15 Alkyl Benzoate (Tegosoft TN)

13%

PPG15 Stearyl Ether Benzoate (Finsolv P)

13%

Isostearyl Benzoate (Finsolv SB)

8%

Octyl Dodecyl Benzoate (Finsolv BOD)

6%

Triacylglycerides
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (Miglyol 812N)

5%

Cocoglyceride (Myritol 331)

5%

Vegetal Oil
Sesame Oil

3%

Avocado Oil

3%

Jojoba Oil

2%

Solubility <1%
Hydrocarbons such as Mineral oil, Isohexadecane, Polydecenes
Alkoxylated Alcohols, Polyols such Propylene Glycol, Glycerol
Siloxanes and Silanes such as Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone

Ciba Tinosorb S

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

13

Performance efficacy
2% TINOSORB S alone is sufficient to fulfill the
requirements of the Australian UV-A standard

UV-A protection in vivo


Persistant Pigment Darkening (PPD)
UV-A protection factors (PFA) of the sunscreen formulations investigated were
measured using the persistent pigment
darkening method[13,14]. Irradiation of volunteers is performed with a UV-A light source
(320 to 400 nm). Two hours after irradiation

the minimal pigmenting dose of protected


(MPDp) and unprotected (MPDu) skin is
evaluated. Each formulation was tested on
10 panelists. The results were expressed as
UVA-protection factors. As a reference the
Japanese UV-A standard[15] was measured.

UV-A protection factor (PFA)

20

TINOSORB S
plus 5% EthylHexylMethoxyCinnamate

PFA category
(Japan)

PFA (PPD method)

16

12
PA +++
8
PA ++
4
PA +

2
1
Placebo 0%

14

Ciba Tinosorb S

1%

2%
4% JapaneseStandard
% TINOSORB S

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

Formulations with varying concentration of


TINOSORB S between 1% and 4% were
investigated in the presence and absence of
a constant level of 5% EthylHexylMethoxyCinnamate. The value of the PFA obtained
for the Japanese UV-A standard was 4.5 0.7
which is in good agreement with the value of
4.3 published by the JCIA[15].

UV-A assessment in vitro


Australian UV-A standard
In Australia, UV-A protection is recognized
when a sunscreen preparation transmits between a wavelength of 320 nm and 360 nm
(at a pathlength of 8 m) less than 10% of
the incoming light[16].
In a comparative test with other oil soluble filters it was shown that TINOSORB S exhibits
the highest efficacy to satisfy the Australian
Standard: only 2.0% of this broad-spectrum
filter are required in the formulation[17].

Transmission spectrum
%

100
80
60
40
20

Australian Standard

0
290

310

330
350
Wavelength (nm)

370

390 400

The green bar indicates the threshold value


of the Australian standard (Transmission < 0.1
between 320 and 360 nm).

Relative UV-A parameters


The critical wavelength is given as the upper limit of the spectral range from 290 nm
on, within which 90% of the area under
the extinction curve of the whole UV-range
between 290 nm and 400 nm is covered.
The higher the the crit. wavelength of a
sunscreen, the better its UVA-performance in
relation to its UVB-performance [18].

UV-A/UV-B ratio

The UV-A/UV-B ratio defines the performance


of a sunscreen in the UV-A range (320 400
nm) in relation to its performance in the UV-B
range (290 320 nm). It is calculated as the
ratio between the areas under the UV-A and
UV-B parts of the extinction curve, both areas
are normalized to the range of wavelengths
involved[18].

[18]

Critical wavelenght and UV-A/UV-B-ratio according to Diffey


900

E (1%, 1cm)

Critical wavelenght

600

UV-B area

UV-A area

90% of total
area under the
curve between
290 and 400 nm

300

0
290

310

330
350
Wavelength (nm)

c
370

390

The critical wavelength c for TINOSORB S alone comes to 370 nm.


The UV-A/UV-B ratio of TINOSORB S alone amounts to 0.73.

Ciba Tinosorb S

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

15

TINOSORB M and TINOSORB S,


the ideal couple
TINOSORB M, INCI-name: Methylene
Bis-Benzotriazolyl
Tetramethylbutylphenol
(MBBT) is an organic broad-spectrum filter
that consists of microfine particles that
are dispersed (50% active) in an aqueous
phase[19]. If TINOSORB M is used together

with TINOSORB S, which is dissolved in the


oil phase, we thus expect synergy in UVB
(SPF) as well as UVA protection.
TINOSORB M and S can be used in day
creams or sunscreens to complement each
other.

SPF of TINOSORB M active


and TINOSORB S alone

Characteristics of TINOSORB M and S

13
TINOSORB M
active

SPF in vitro

10

TINOSORB S

Physical state
Emulsion phase
Broad-spectrum
Performance
Critical wavelength
UV-A UV-B ratio

TINOSORB M

TINOSORB S

Particles
Water
Covers long UVA
(E1,1 curve)
388 nm
1.0

Soluble
Oil
Higher absorbance
(E1,1 curve)
373 nm
0.73

2
4
6
% broad-spectrum UV filter

Synergy between
TINOSORB M and TINOSORB S
Synergy between UV absorbers

TINOSORB S and TINOSORB M synergistic effect

Synergy is present when the SPF of a particular combination of UV filters is higher than
the sum of the SPF of the same filters at the
same quantities, alone.

SPF measurement of combinations of


TINOSORB M and TINOSORB S

The SPF-synergy between TINOSORB M


and TINOSORB S was studied by in vitro
measurement using PolyMethylMetacrylate
(PMMA) plates (1.2 mg/cm2). A strong synergistic effect on the SPF was found and also
confirmed with in vivo experiments.

TINOSORB S 0%

TINOSORB S 2%

TINOSORB S 5%

Example

SPF of 5% TINOSORB M active


7.4
SPF of 5% TINOSORB S
8.9
Sum of SPFs TINOSORB M/S alone (A) 16.3
SPF of TINOSORB M+S combined (C) 23.1
Synergistic effect C-A:

16

Ciba Tinosorb S

TINOSORB M active
0%
2.5%
5.0%
7.5%

6.8

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

10

15
20
SPF in vitro

25

30

35

Combinations with UV-B filters


The SPF values of TINOSORB S, the UV-B
absorbers and all combination pairs were calculated using a calibrated step film model[20].
The calculations are in good agreement with
in vivo data.
TINOSORB S shows a very strong synergy
with the two most efficient UV-B filters Ethylhexyl Triazone and Diethylhexyl Butamido
Triazone, and a slight synergy in combination with the frequently used UV-B filters,
4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, Ethylhexyl
Methoxycinnnamate and Phenylbenzimidazol Sulfonic Acid.

Synergy of TINOSORB S (3%) with UV-B absorbers (4%)

Sum of SPFs of filters alone


SPFs of filters combined
TINOSORB S alone
Ethylhexyl Triazone

UV-B absorber

Synergy of 3% TINOSORB S
combined with 4% of a UV-B filter.

Diethylhexyl
Butamido Triazone
4-Methylbenzylidene
Camphor
Ethylhexyl
Methoxycinnamate
Phenylbenzimidazol
Sulfonic Acid
1

10
15
[20]
SPF calculated

20

Photo-stabilizing effect on
ButylMethoxyDibenzoylMethane (BMBM)
Photo-stabilizing effect on BMBM

Stabilizing agent

Drop of UV-A/UV-B ratio

Without
stabilization

TINOSORB S
3%

TINOSORB M
7.5%

-10
-20
-30
-40
-50
-60

A standard O/W formula built with an anionic


emulsifier system (Crodafos CES and Stearic
acid) was used to determine the stabilizing
effect of TINOSORB M and TINOSORB S
on 1 and 2% BMBM after an irradiation with
10 MED. The stabilizing effect is expressed as
the drop in the UV-A/UV-B ratio, which is a
clear indicator of the performance of a UV-A
absorber.
The simple use of TINOSORB S at 3% is
sufficient to limit efficiently the photo-degradation of BMBM, TINOSORB M has a less
pronounced stabilization effect.
The stabilizing effect of TINOSORB S has
also been described elsewhere[21].

-70

Ciba Tinosorb S

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

17

Safety
Overview

The testing program was conducted with


the active ingredient and according to
OECD/EC test guidelines when available and
were GLP-compliant. The toxicological test
results indicate no adverse effects for human
use. TINOSORB S toxicology data have been

reviewed by the European Commission Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and


Non-Food Products Intended For Consumers
(SCCNFP) and found to support an approved
safe use level of up to 10% TINOSORB S as a
UV filter in leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Toxicological test

Result /Conclusion

Acute oral toxicity- rat


Acute dermal toxicity- rat
Acute dermal irritation/corrosion- rabbit
Acute eye irritation/corrosion- rabbit
Skin sensitisation- Maximization test Guinea pig

LD50 > 2000 mg/kg


LD50 > 2000 mg/kg
Not irritant
Not irritant
Not a sensitizer

13-Week Repeated dose (gavage) toxicity- rat

NOEL= 1000 mg/kg/day

Phototoxicity in Guinea pig


Photo-sensitization test- Guinea pig

Not phototoxic
Not photosensitizing

Reproductive toxicity
Androgen & Estrogen Receptor Binding Assays in vitro
Uterotrophic Assay: Immature female rats (gavage dose)
Teratogenicity test (gavage) in rats
(maternal, embryo, and fetal effects)

Negative
Negative
NOEL = 1000 mg/kg/day

Genetic test
Bacteria (S. typhimurium; E. coli) Reverse Mutation (Ames)
In vitro Chromosome Aberration (V79 cells)
Photo-mutagenicity in bacteria (S.typhimurium; E.coli)
Photo-Chromosome Aberration (V79 cells)

Not mutagenic
Not clastogenic
Nut mutagenic
Not clastogenic

Conclusion for Mutagenicity

Negative

Clinical test
Human phototoxicity (Sunscreen formulation)
Human photoallergy (Sunscreen formulation)

Not phototoxic
Not photoallergic

All tests have been performed according to


standardized, approved methods.

18

Ciba Tinosorb S

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

Environment
The eco-toxicological tests undertaken show that
there is no adverse effects on the environment.
The testing program was conducted according to OECD/EC test guidelines where available, and the risk assessment in line with the
European Commissions Technical Guidance
Document (TGD).
TINOSORB S has no acute aquatic toxicity
up to solubility and also no toxicity to microorganisms. The substance is not readily
biodegradable but has an expected elimination of >70% and is therefore adsorbed on
to sludge and sediment. TINOSORB S has
a bio concentration factor BCF 19* and
therefore no tendency to bio accumulate. An
androgen competitive binding assay gave no
indication of an endocrine activity.
The resulting Environmental Risk Assessment
according to the EU Technical Guidance
Document has a PEC/PNEC** ratio of <0.01
in the environmental compartments water,
sludge, sediment and soil. These favorable
results indicate no adverse effect to the environment.

BCF values < 100 are of no concern

** PEC = Predicted Environmental Concentration


PNEC = Predicted No Effect Concentration
PEC/PNEC ratios < 1 indicates no immediate
concern to the environment

TINOSORB S
great daytime protection

Ciba Tinosorb S

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

19

Product registration
TINOSORB S is already approved in Europe and South America; Ciba
Specialty Chemicals is committed to register TINOSORB S globally.
TINOSORB S is approved for use as UV filter according to part I
of Annex VII of the European Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC in a
concentration of up to 10%[22].
TINOSORB S is approved for use as UV filter by the Swiss Bundesamt
fr Gesundheit, listed in Anhang 2 der Verordnung ber kosmetische Mittel (VKos) in a concentration of up to 10%.
TINOSORB S is further contained in the Lista Positiva de Filtros
Ultravioletas do Mercosul for concentrations of up to 10% comprising the following countries: Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay, Bolivia and
Uruguay.
TINOSORB S is also approved by the South African Foodstuff,
Cosmetics and Disinfectants Act for concentrations of up to 10%.
Ciba Specialty Chemicals has initiated the registration of TINOSORB S
in many further countries.

Patents
TINOSORB S and combinations thereof with most commonly used
cosmetic UV filters are patent protected by Ciba Specialty Chemicals
(e. g. US-5,955,060). Nevertheless, specific patents and patent applications of other parties should be considered.

20

Ciba Tinosorb S

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

References
1. Scharfetter-Kochanek K, Wenk J, Brenneisen B,
Blaudschun R and Wlaschek M, Molecular Role
of Reactive Oxygen Species in Photoageing and
Tumor Progression. In: Altmeyer P et al. (Eds.).
Skin Cancer and Radiation. Springer, BerlinHeidelberg (1997), pp. 115127
2. Streilein JW, Taylor JR, Vincek V, Kurimoto I,
Shimizu T, Tie C, and Coulomb C, Immune
surveillance and sunlight-induced skin cancer,
Immunology Today. 15.(1994) 174179

13. Herzog B, Mongiat S, Deshayes C, Neuhaus


M, Sommer K, Mantler A, In Vivo and In Vitro
Assessment of UVA-Protection by Sunscreen
Formulations Containing eitherButyl Methoxy
Dibenzoyl Methane, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl
Tetramethylbutylphenol, or Microfine ZnO, Oral
presentation at 22nd IFSCC, Edinburgh, 23-26
September 2002, oral paper

3. COLIPA sun protection factor test method, ref.


94/289, Oct. 1994, The European Cosmetic
Toiletry and Perfumery Association COLIPA,
Rue du Congrs, 5-7, B-1000 Bruxelles

14. Chardon A, Moyal D, and Hourseau C,


Persistent pigment-darkening response as a
method for evaluation of ultraviolet A protection
assays. Sunscreens: Development, Evaluation, and
Regulatory Aspects, ed. Lowe NJ, Shaath NA,
Pathak MA, 559-582, 2nd Ed., Marcel Dekker,
New York (1997)

4. Ziegler A, Jonason AS, Leffeli DJ, Simon JA,


Sharma HW, Kimmelmann J, Remington L, Jacks
T and Brash DA, Sunburn and p53 in the onset of
skin cancer, Nature 372.(1994) 773776

15. JCIA Measurement Standard for UVA Protection


Efficacy. Japan Cosmetic Industry Association
JCIA, 9-14, Toranomon 2-Chome, Minato-Ku
Tokyo, p 105 (1995)

5. Ananthaswamy HN, Loughlin SM, Cox P, Evans


RL, Ullrich SE and Kripke ML, Sunlight and
Skin cancer: Inhibition of p53 mutations in UVirradiated mouse skin by sunscreens.
Nature Medicine 3.(1997) 510514

16. AS/NZS (1998) Australian/New Zealand Standard. AS/NZS, 2604

6. Fukuda ML and Takata S, The Evolution of


Recent Sunscreens. In: P. Altmeyer et al. (Eds.).
Skin Cancer and Radiation. Springer, BerlinHeidelberg (1997) 265275

17. Osterwalder U, Luther H, and Herzog B, Sun


protection beyond the sun protection factor
new efficient and photostable UVA filters. SFWJournal 127, 45-54 (2001)
18. Diffey BL, A method for broad-spectrum
classification of sunscreens, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci.
16, 47-52 (1994)

7. Schauder S, Sunscreens in Europe: Recent


Developments. In: Altmeyer P et al. (Eds.). Skin
Cancer and Radiation. Springer, Berlin- Heidelberg (1997) 276295

19. Osterwalder U, Luther H, Herzog B, UV-A


Protection with a new class of UV Absorber, 47.
SEPAWA Kongress, Proceedings; 2000 153-164

8. Sauermann G, Mann T, and Wochnowski M,


UV Protection by Sunscreens. In: Altmeyer P et
al. (Eds.). Skin Cancer and Radiation. Springer,
Berlin- Heidelberg (1997) 296313

20. Herzog B, Prediction of Sun Protection Factors


by Calculation of Transmissions with a Calibrated
Step Film Model, J. Cosmet. Sci. 53, 11-26
(January-February 2002)

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structure, J. Phys. Chem. 58 (1973) 5716-5725

21. Chatelain E and Gabard B, Photostabilization of


Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone)
and Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate by Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb
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Photobiol. 74, 401-406 (2001).

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Deflandre A, Mascotte RE, Jolley JDR, Lowell W,
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with superior photoprotection, Oral presentation
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2002, oral paper

Ciba Tinosorb S

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

21

Recommendations for use


Incorporation of TINOSORB S in cosmetic manufacturing
The product form of TINOSORB S is a very fine yellow powder that
is easily solubilized in most lipophilic emollients. Consequently and
preferably, TINOSORB S should be added directly into the oil phase
of the emulsion and then heated till 75 80 C for the emulsification
procedure.
Alternatively and especially for cold process emulsions, we should
solubilize first TINOSORB S in the most relevant lipophilic solvents
(high to medium polarity) at room temperature and then complete
the oil phase with the rest of oil dispersible/soluble ingredients.
The choice of the emulsifier system and the polarity of the cosmetic
solvents is determinant to an optimal stability of TINOSORB S in
end products.

O/W emulsifier systems

Good compatibility with broad variety of emulsifier systems


Best physico-chemical stability with anionic emulsifiers
Reasonable limit of use in O/W emulsions: <5%-6%
Preferred systems, for optimal SPF value, are lamellar
structured emulsions (lamellar gel network provides rheological
barrier to coalescence and decreases the Van de Waals forces
between oil droplets)

W/O emulsifier systems


W/O emulsions need to use a minimal quantity of non polar oils
in order to be physico-chemically stable
TINOSORB S solubilization needs a sufficient amount of
polar oils
Use of waxes (Candellila, Carnauba...) improves the stability
when formulating with polar oils
Reasonable limit of use in W/O emulsion: 3%
Preferred systems, for optimal SPF value, are Polyglyceryl esters
(liquid lamellar phase formation provides good abilities to
emulsify polar oils and silicones without any stability problems
over time)

22

Ciba Tinosorb S

The highly efficient broad-spectrum UV-absorber

Formulary
TINOSORB S serves as basis for
good UV-A protection in day creams
and medium to high SPF sunscreens
The information given in our circulars is based on the present state
of our knowledge. It shows without liability on our part the uses to
which our product can be applied.
For further information please call your local representative.

All trademarks mentioned are either property


of or licensed to Ciba Specialty Chemicals and
registered in relevant countries.
IMPORTANT: The following supersedes Buyers
documents. SELLER MAKES NO REPRESENTATION
OR WARRANTY, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. No statements herein are to be
construed as inducements to infringe any relevant
patent. Under no circumstances shall Seller be liable
for incidental, consequential or indirect damages
for alleged negligence, breach of warranty, strict
liability, tort or contract arising in connection with
the product(s). Buyers sole remedy and Sellers sole
liability for any claims shall be Buyers purchase
price. Data and results are based on controlled or
lab work and must be confirmed by Buyer by testing
for its intended conditions of use. The product(s)
has not been tested for, and is therefore not recommended for, uses for which prolonged contact
with mucous membranes, abraded skin, or blood is
intended; or for uses for which implantation within
the human body is intended. The information given
in our circulars is based on the present state of our
knowledge. It shows without liability on our part the
uses to which our product can be applied.
Ciba Specialty Chemicals
Ciba Specialty Chemicals is a global leader in
the discovery, manufacture and marketing of
innovative specialty chemicals. Our products
hold leading positions in their chosen markets.
We add value beyond chemistry for our customers, employees and shareholders through
our state-of-the-art environmentally compatible
technologies and proven international marketing
expertise.
This boschure is not intended for the use in the
U.S.A.

Headquarters/Europe

Ciba Specialty Chemicals

Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc.


Home & Personal Care Segment
CH-4002 Basel
Switzerland

Asia Pacific
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Telephone +65 68 90 61 16
Telefax
+65 68 90 61 06
hpc.asiapacific@cibasc.com

Telephone +41 61 636 24 14


Telefax
+41 61 636 31 83
hpc@cibasc.com
www.cibasc.com

North America (Canada, USA)


Ciba Specialty Chemicals Corporation
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US-High Point, NC 27261-2444
Telephone +1 336 801 20 00
Telefax
+1 336 801 20 51
hpc.northamerica@cibasc.com
Central America (Mexico, Central America)
Ciba Especialidades Qumicas Mxico,
S.A. de C.V.
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MEX-04850 Mxico, D.F.
Telephone +52 55 54 22 60 00
Telefax
+52 55 54 22 60 06
hpc.centralamerica@cibasc.com
South America
Ciba Especialidades Qumicas Ltda.
Av. Prof. Vincente Rao, 90 Santo Amaro
BR-04706-900, So Paulo-SP
Telephone +55 11 55 32 71 22
Telefax
+55 11 55 43 72 52
hpc.southamerica@cibasc.com

2002 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc.


Pub. No. PC.UVPS.TB.0208.e.01
Edited in Switzerland in August 2002

Value beyond chemistry

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