body

starting at head end

1. Chain 2, work 6 sc into 2nd chain from hook
2. (inc,inc,sc) twice - 10sc
3. (sc, inc, sc, inc, sc) twice - 14sc
4. to 7. work 4 rounds straight (ie 1sc into each sc)
8. inc in each of the next 4 sc, sc to end - 18sc
9. work 1 round
10. (inc, inc, work 7sc) twice - 22sc
11. to 18. work 8 rounds straight on these 22sc
19. work 1sc, (dec, work 3sc) to last sc, work 1 - 18sc
20. (dec, work 4sc) to end - 15sc
21. (dec, work 3sc) to end - 12sc ... stuff now for ease
22. (dec, work 2sc) to end - 9sc
23. work dec 4 times, sc in final sc - 5sc
fasten off leaving a thread for closing. push in a little more filling if needed, thread yarn through the stitches and pull tight
to close hole
wings make 2 starting at tip
1. chain 2, work 4sc in 2nd chain from hook
2. (inc, sc,) twice - 6sc
3. work 1 round straight
4. (2sc, inc) twice - 8sc
5. (3sc, inc) twice - 10sc
6. (4sc, inc) twice - 12sc
7. to 14. work 8 rounds straight
15. (sc, dec) to end - 8sc
16. (sc, sc, dec) twice - 6sc
fasten off leaving a long thread to attach to body. do not stuff, flatten wing and pin in place on back behind "bump" made
by the increases on row 8 of body. I sit them on so the very tips are slightly separate, attach behind head and secure in
placewith a couple of stitches about 3-4 rows down the wing, this way they dont flap about too loosely.
sew on the face leaving at least 2 rows between the wings and the eyes to allow for feeler placement. loads of artistic
license here to do what you feels looks best. As mine was for a 3yr old I gave him a smile :D
feelers make 2
chain 14, slip stitch into 2nd chain from hook then slipstitch into every other chain, fasten off leaving long thread to attach
to head. Sew to head between the wings and eyes ... point them forward or back as you see fit. I positioned mine
forwards.

legs make 6
chain 9, slip stitch into 2nd chain from hook then slipstitch into every other chain, fasten off leaving long thread to attach to
body. Turn bug upside down and for ease mark center line with a pin (optional, you can use your own eye judgement if
you want) ... attach 3 legs to either side of the center line as shown in the picture below
Sew any loose ends you may still have thru the body and snip off neatly, and ta-da finished bug

Body:
Rnd 1 sc 6 in MR (6 sts)
Rnd 2 sc in each st (6 sts)
Add safety eyes. This will be rather tight to crochet around, but it automatically adds a head shape
Rnd 3-17 sc in each st (6 sts)
Rnd 18 *sc in next st, st2tog* (4 sts)
FO
No need to stuff
Legs:
Wrap 3 pipe cleaners in the same yarn you used for the stick insect. Start by gluing one end.
Wrap the yarn carefully around and put a dot of glue at the end. Trim the yarn.
Thread the pipe cleaners through a stitch, using the picture as a guide.

Finished Size: 5 inches tall and 10 inches wide when standing

Materials: Worsted yarn, size F crochet hook, stuffing, tape measure, sewing thread to match yarn, sewing
needle, 2 6mm beads
TIP: Plastic shopping bags are appropriate stuffing for some amigurumi projects; a terrific way to recycle
and keep the earth free of needless waste. Cotton from pill bottles also makes excellent stuffing. Some
crafters have successfully used old sheets, pillowcases, towels, socks (CLEAN!) and even clothing by
shredding them into strips and cutting into desired size for insertion. Stuffing the same color as or close to
the same color of the project is ideal.
Instructions

Round 1: 8 sc in ring; do not join. Pull magic circle tight.

Round 2: 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, 3 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in each
of next 2 sc; do not join. Use a stitch marker here to mark beginning of round if desired.
TIP: When using any stitch larger than sc in amigurumi, link stitches to prevent openings where
stuffing will show through. For example, when using dc, insert hook through bottom loop of
previous dc and draw up loop for 1st yo, then bring up hook through next stitch as normal for 2nd
loop.
Round 3: 1 dc in each of next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in each of next 7 sc, 1 sc in each
of next 2 sc, 1 dc in each of next 3 sc.
Round 4: Yo and draw up loop through next dc, yo and draw through 2 loops, yo and draw up loop
through next dc, yo and draw through 2 loops, yo and draw through 2 loops (dc dec made), 1 hdc in

each of next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, [2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc] 7 times, 1 sc in each of
next 3 st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st.
Round 5: 1 dc dec across next 2 st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st, 1 sc in each of next 3 st, 2 sc in next
st, 1 sc in each of next 14 st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 3 st, 1 hdc in each of next 3 st, 1
dc in each of next 2 st.
Round 6: 1 dc dec over next 2 st, 1 dc in each of next 3 st, 1 hdc in each of next 3 st, 1 sc in each
of next 17 st,1 hdc in each of next 3 st. New Rounds don't start directly above stitch marker now;
you didn't count wrong. Just keep following the instructions.
Round 7: 1 dc dec over next 3 st, 1 dc in each of next 3 st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st, 1 sc in each
of next 18 sc, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st.
Round 8: 1 dc in each of next 6 st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st, 1 sc in each of next 20 st, 1 hdc in
each of next 2 st.
Round 9: 1 dc in each of next 5 st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st, 1 sc in each of next 25 st.
Round 10: Move st marker to here. 1 sc in each st around for a total of 29 st. If your count is off a
bit, no worries. If the body of the spider is shaped a bit like Snoopy's head, you're doing fine. If the
body does not look like the abdomen of a black widow, adjustments may need to be made. Do not
stress about stitch count. This project is a toy and should be fun, not heartache. Trust me; no one
is going to count your stitches when you are done. They'll be too busy oohing and aaaahing at the
marvel you've created.
Round 11: 1 sc in each st around.
Round 12: 1 sc in each st around.
Round 13: 1 sc in each st around, dec 4 st evenly spaced for a total of 25 sc.
Round 14: 1 sc in each st around, dec 4 st evenly spaced for a total of 21 sc, taking care not to
place dec directly above dec in Round below.
Round 15: * 2 sc in each of next 2 st, 1 dec sc across next 2 st; repeat from * around until you reach
a total of 16 st. Lightly stuff.
TIP: Use the flat end of crochet hook to shape, move or adjust stuffing in tight places.
Round 16: * 2 sc in each of next 2 st, 1 dec sc across next 2 st; repeat from * around until you reach
a total of 12 st. Stuff again until you achieve desired plumpness.
Round 17: 6 sc dec around. Complete stuffing.
TIP: If you are using dark-colored yarn and light colored stuffing and the stuffing gets caught in the
stitches, run your finger or hook along the inside of body to dislodge stuffing from stitches. Use a
smaller crochet hook to pull out any stragglers.
Round 18: 1 sc in each st around.
Round 19: To begin head shaping, 2 sc in each st around for a total of 12 sc.

Round 20: [2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc] 5 times, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st.
Rounds 21-24: 1 dc in each of next 3 st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st, 1 sc in each of next 10 st, 1 hdc
in each of next 2 st.
Round 25: *1 dec sc across next 2 st, 1 sc in next st; repeat from * around until a total of 12 st
remain. Lightly stuff. Use wrong end of crochet hook to push a bit of stuffing into joint between
head and body. A larger size crochet hook works perfectly for this step, such as an H or J.
Round 26: 1 dec sc across next 2 st all the way around for a total of 6 sc remaining. Insert more
stuffing if needed.
Round 27: Sl st in next st and bind off, leaving a long tail. Weave tail through each of 6 remaining
st and pull tight. Weave end into head.
TIP: If you have holes in your work where the stuffing shows through, cut a piece of yarn about 3 or
4 inches long and weave in and out of stitches to cover holes. Weave ends into project.

Long Spider Legs

TIP: If crocheting legs is too difficult, use thick pipe cleaners bent into C shape for legs instead.
Twist 2 or 3 pipe cleaners together for each leg for added strength if desired.
Make 2.
Make magic ring.
Round 1: 6 sc in ring. Do not join. Pull magic circle tight.

Round 2: 1 sc in each sc around.

Repeat Round 2 until piece measures 3 inches long.
Leg Joint Round: 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 3 st. TIP: It
is not necessary to link hdc st and dc st in this piece because it will not be stuffed.
Repeat Leg Joint Round.
Repeat Round 2 until piece measures 6 inches.
Repeat Leg Joint Round twice.
TIP: It is not necessary to count Rounds or stitches on this piece. Succeeding Leg Joint Rounds
should be started on the same side as previous Leg Joint Rounds, dc stitches linearly above previous
dc stitches, so leg bends line up forming a J or C shape, regardless of Round starting points. If
marking Rounds makes amigurumi easier for you, mark 1st hdc on 1st Leg Joint Round on each leg
joint, and after working even around until piece measures appropriate length, run your finger
straight up the leg from stitch marker to current round, and begin next Leg Joint Round there.
Repeat Round 2 until piece measures 10 inches.
Repeat Leg Joint Round twice.
Repeat Round 2 until piece measures 13 inches.
Repeat Leg Joint Round twice.
Repeat Round 2 until piece measures 16 inches. Sl st in next st. Bind off, leaving a long tail. Weave
tail through each of 6 sc of final Round and pull tight. Weave ends into leg.

Short Spider Legs

Make 2.
Make magic ring.
Round 1: 6 sc in ring. Do not join. Pull magic circle tight.
Round 2: 1 sc in each sc around.

Repeat Round 2 until piece measures 2.5 inches long.

Leg Joint Round: 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 3 st.
Repeat Leg Joint Round.
Repeat Round 2 until piece measures 5 inches.
Repeat Leg Joint Round twice.
Repeat Round 2 until piece measures 9 inches.
Repeat Leg Joint Round twice.
Repeat Round 2 until piece measures 11.5 inches.
Repeat Leg Joint Round twice.
Repeat Round 2 until piece measures 14 inches. Sl st in next st. Bind off, leaving a long tail. Weave
tail through each of 6 sc of final Round and pull tight. Weave ends into leg.

Assemble spider: Cut strand of yarn about 15 inches long. Stack legs, long, short, short, long, and
using crochet hook, bring end of yarn through center of all four legs. Insert hook into legs again one

row over from 1st insertion and bring other end of yarn through. Tie yarn as tight as possible
without breaking. Using yarn ends, attach legs to underside of head and upper body. Weave in
ends. Sew bead eyeballs into place.

The Spider Snowflake

Finished Size: 1.75 inches from point to point
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread, size 8 crochet hook, sewing thread to match snowflake and
sewing needle OR craft glue
Ch 4, sl st into 1st ch OR make magic ring.
Round 1: * Ch 2, 1 dc in ring, ch 2, sl st in ring; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 2, 2 dc in ring. Do
not join. Pull magic circle tight.
Round 2: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), * 2 dc in 2nd ch of next ch 2 in next petal, sk next dc, 2 dc
in 2nd ch of next ch 2, ch 3; repeat from * around 5 times, ending with 1 dc in same dc as starting
ch 5 instead of last 2 dc of final repeat and omitting ch 3; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 5.
Round 3: * 3 sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 sc in same sp, sk next dc, 1 sc in each of next 3 dc; repeat
from * around 5 times; sl st in starting sc; bind off. Weave in ends.

Finish: Pin and block snowflake and spray lightly with water if desired. (I did not block my
snowflake.) Allow to dry. Either sew snowflake into place on underside of spider abdomen or glue it
into place and allow to dry thoroughly. I was tempted to place the snowflake on the top of the
abdomen so it would show, but I wanted my spider to be anatomically correct, so to speak. If
desired, hang spider upside down using fishing line. Or just let spider sit on your desk and make
funny faces at you.

Firefly Body made in rounds

1. With gray, chain 2.
2. 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Mark first st for beginning of round and move marker up for each round.
3. 1 sc in each sc around for 3 rounds 8 sc. in each round
4. For me, this was a good place to stop for a moment and sew on the mouth. I just did a straight stitch in
black and knotted it inside.
5. Now continuing with the body, 1 sc in each sc around for 7 more rounds 8 sc in each round. You will
need to change to the yellow yarn while working your last stitch of your last round of gray. This
begins the yellow tail or light-up portion of the firefly.
6. With the yellow, 1 sc in each sc around for 4 rounds 8 sc in each round.
7. Sl st, then cut yarn leaving a long tail. Knot by pulling yarn tail through the yarn on the hook.
8. Stuff with fiberfill. You can use the eraser end of a pencil or a dowel to push the stuffing all the way to
the end.
9. Weave yarn in and out of scs all around. Pull yarn tight to close opening, knot yarn and feed tail into
body to hide it.
Wings Make 2
1. With black, chain 4, turn

2. sc in 2nd ch from hook and in the rest of the scs across, ch 1, turn
3. sc across, ch 1, turn, for 9 rows.
4. skip the first sc, 1 sc in next 2 stitches, ch 1, turn
5. sc in the first stitch, sl st in the next, cut yarn and finish off by pulling yarn tail through the yarn on the
hook to make a knot.
6. Weave yarn ends into underside of wings.
Assembly
1. Sew the wings onto the firefly body with the Country Red Sugar n Cream yarn.
2. Glue the eyes on. I use a low temperature glue gun.
3. Feed your three pieces of chenille stick into the underside of the body and bend them to make the legs.
You are finished!