Suit (clothing)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

For other garments (protective, etc) sometimes called suits, see Suit (disambiguation).
"Suit and tie" redirects here. For the song, see Suit & Tie.

This article includes a list of references, but its sources remain unclear because it has
insufficient inline citations. Please help to improve this article byintroducing more precise
Western dresscitations.
codes (October 2011)

Formal wear

Semi-formal

Informal (including lounge suits)

Smart casual

Business casual

Casual

Active attire

A man pictured in a three-piece suit including a contrasting double-breastedwaistcoat with a pocket watch

In clothing, a suit is a set of garments made from the same cloth, usually consisting of at least a jacket and
trousers. Lounge suits (also known as business suits when sober in colour and style), which originated
in Britain as country wear,[1] are the most common style of Western suit. Other types of suit still worn today
are the dinner suit, part of black tie, which arose as a lounging alternative to dress coats in much the same
way as the day lounge suit came to replace frock coats and morning coats; and, rarely worn today,
the morning suit. This article discusses the lounge suit (including business suits), elements
of informal dress code.
The variations in design, cut, and cloth, such as two- and three- piece, or single- and double- breasted,
determine the social and work suitability of the garment. Often, suits are worn, as is traditional, with
a collared shirt and necktie.[2] Until around the 1960s, as with all men's clothes, a hat would have been also
worn when the wearer was outdoors. Suits also come with different numbers of pieces: a two-piece suit has
a jacket and the trousers; a three piece adds a vest or waistcoat; further pieces might include a
matching flat cap.
Originally, as with most clothes, a tailor made the suit from his client's selected cloth; these are now often
known as bespoke suits. The suit was custom made to the measurements, taste, and style of the man.
Since the Industrial Revolution, most suits are mass-produced, and, as such, are sold as ready-to-wear
garments (though alteration by a tailor prior to wearing is common). Currently, suits are sold in roughly
three ways:

bespoke, in which the garment is custom-made from a pattern created entirely from the customer's
measurements, giving the best fit and free choice of fabric;

made to measure, in which a pre-made pattern is modified to fit the customer, and a limited
selection of options and fabrics is available;

and finally ready-to-wear, which is least expensive and hence most common.[3]
Contents
[hide]

1 History

2 Etymology

3 Parts of a suit

3.1 The cut

3.2 Fabric

3.3 Jacket

3.3.1 Front buttons

3.3.2 Lapels

3.3.3 Pockets

3.3.4 Sleeves

3.3.5 Vents

3.4 Waistcoats

3.5 Trousers

3.6 Breeches

3.7 Accessories

4 Situations for wearing and perceptions of suits

5 Suit etiquette for men

5.1 Buttoning the suit jacket

5.2 Ties with suits

5.3 Shirts with suits

5.4 Socks with suits

6 Suit etiquette for women

7 Notes

8 References

9 External links

History[edit source | editbeta]

Main article: History of suits

This section does not cite any references or sources. Please help improve this section
by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged
and removed. (October 2011)
The current styles were founded in the revolution during the early 19th century that sharply changed the
elaborately embroidered and jewelled formal clothing into the simpler clothing of the British Regencyperiod,
which gradually evolved to the stark formality of the Victorian era. It was in the search for more comfort that
the loosening of rules gave rise in the late 19th century to the modern lounge suit.

Etymology[edit source | editbeta]

The word suit derives from the French suite,[4] meaning "following", from some Late Latin derivative form of
the Latin verb sequor = "I follow", because the component garments (jacket and trousers and waistcoat)
follow each other and have the same cloth and colour and are worn together.
As a suit (in this sense) covers all or most of the wearer's body, the term "suit" was extended to a single
garment that covers all or most of the body, such as boilersuits and diving suits and spacesuits (see Suit
(disambiguation)).

Parts of a suit[edit source | editbeta]

There are many possible variations in the choice of the style, the garments and the details of a suit.

The cut[edit source | editbeta]

A man dressed in a three-piece suit and bowler hat.

The silhouette of a suit is its outline. Tailored balance created from a canvas fitting allows a balanced
silhouette so a jacket need not be buttoned and a garment is not too tight or too loose. A proper garment is
shaped from the neck to the chest and shoulders to drape without wrinkles from tension. Shape is the
essential part of tailoring that often takes hand work from the start. The two main cuts are 1) doublebreasted suits, a conservative design with two vertical rows of buttons, spanned by a large overlap of the
left and right sides; and 2) single-breasted suits, in which the sides overlap very slightly, with a single row of
buttons.
Good tailoring anywhere in the world is characterised by strongly tapered sides and minimal shoulder,
whereas often rack suits are padded to reduce labour. More casual suits are characterized by less
construction and tailoring, much like the sack suit is a loose American style.[5]
There are 3 ways to make suits. (1) Ready made and altered "sizes" or pre cut shapes; a convenience that
often is expressed over time with wrinkles from poor shaping, leading to distortion; (2) The made to
measure that uses measurements, not shaping, to achieve things like style, lengths and horizontal
measurements; (3) The custom, bespoke or tailoring-designed suit that has interim half-made fittings and is
cut from an actual personal pattern.
The acid test of authentic tailoring standards is the wrinkle that comes from poor tailoring. Rumples can be
pressed out. For interim fittings, "Rock Of Eye" (which means trained freehand based on an experienced

artistic eye to match the item to the wearer, trusting the eye over unyielding scripted approach), drawing
and cutting inaccuracies are overcome by the fitting. [6]

Fabric[edit source | editbeta]

Suits are made in a variety of fabrics, but most commonly from wool. The two main yarns
produce worsteds (where the fibres are combed before spinning to produce a smooth, hard wearing cloth)
and woollens (where they are not, thus remaining comparatively fluffy in texture). These can be woven in a
number of ways producing flannel, tweed,gabardine, and fresco among others. These fabrics all have
different weights and feel, and some fabrics have an S (or Super S) number describing the fineness of the
fibres measured by average fibre diameter, e.g., Super 120; however, the finer the fabric, the more delicate
and thus less likely to be long-wearing it will be. Although wool has traditionally been associated with warm,
bulky clothing meant for warding off cold weather, advances in making finer and finer fiber have made wool
suits acceptable for warmer weather, as fabrics have accordingly become lighter and more supple. Wool
fabric is denominated by the weight of a one-square yard piece; thus, the heavier wools, suitable for winter
only, are 12-14 oz.; the medium, "three season" (i.e., excluding summer) are 10-11 oz.; and summer wools
are 7-8 oz. (In the days before central heating, heavier wools such as 16 oz. were used in suits; now they
are used mainly in overcoats and topcoats.) Other materials are used sometimes, either alone or blended
with wool, such ascashmere.[7] Silk alone or blended with wool is sometimes used. Synthetic materials,
while cheaper, e.g., polyester, are very rarely recommended by experts. At most, a blend of predominantly
wool may be acceptable to obtain the main benefit of synthetics, namely resistance to wrinkling, particularly
in garments used for travel; however, any synthetic, blended or otherwise, will always be warmer and
clammier than wool alone.[citation needed] For hot weather, linen is also used, and in (Southern) North
America cottonseersucker is worn.
The main four colours for suits worn in business are black, light grey, dark grey, and navy, either with or
without patterns. In particular, grey flannel suiting has been worn very widely since the 1930s. In nonbusiness settings or less-formal business contexts, brown is another important colour; olive also occurs. In
summer, lighter shades such as tan or cream are popular.[8][9]

A man wearing a chalk-striped suit

For non-business use tweed has been popular since Victorian times, and still is commonly worn. A wide
range of colour is available, including muted shades of green, brown, red, and grey.[10] Tweeds are usually
checked, or plain with a herringbone weave, and are most associated with the country. While full tweed
suits are not worn by many now, the jackets are often worn as sports jackets with odd trousers (trousers of
different cloth).
The most conventional suit is a 2- or 3-button and either medium to dark grey or navy. Other conservative
colors are greys, black, and olive. White and light blues are acceptable at some events, especially in the
warm season. Red and the brighter greens are usually considered "unconventional" and "garish". Tradition
calls for a gentleman's suit to be of decidedly plain color, with splashes of bright color reserved for shirts,
neckties or kerchiefs.
In the United States and the United Kingdom, around the start of the 20th century, lounge suits were never
traditionally worn in plain black, this colour instead being reserved for formal wear [11] (including dinner
jackets or strollers), and for undertakers. However, the decline of formal wear since the 1950s and the rise
of casual wear in 1960s allowed the black suit to return to fashion as many designers started to want to
move away from the business suit and into more fashion suits.
Traditional business suits are generally in solid colours or with pin stripes;[12] windowpane checks are also
acceptable. Outside business, the range of acceptable patterns widens, with plaids such as the
traditional glen plaid and herringbone, though apart from some very traditional environments such as
London banking, these are worn for business now too. The colour of the patterned element (stripes, plaids,
and checks) varies by gender and location. For example, bold checks, particularly with tweeds, have fallen
out of use the US, while they continue to be worn as traditionally in Britain. Some unusual old patterns such
as diamonds are now rare everywhere.
Inside the jacket of a suit, between the outer fabric and the inner lining, there is a layer of
sturdy interfacing fabric to prevent the wool from stretching out of shape; this layer of cloth is called
the canvas after the fabric from which it was traditionally made. Expensive jackets have a floating canvas,
while cheaply manufactured models have a fused (glued) canvas.[13] A fused canvas is less soft and, if
poorly done, damages the suppleness and durability of the jacket, [14] so many tailors are quick to deride
fused canvas as being less durable, particularly since they may tend to permanently pucker along the
jacket's edges after some use or a few dry cleanings.[15] However, some selling this type of jacket claim that
the difference in quality is very small.[16] A few London tailors state that all bespoke suits should use a
floating canvas.[17]

Jacket[edit source | editbeta]

Front buttons[edit source | editbeta]

Single- vs. double-breasted jacket

Most single-breasted suits have two or three buttons, and one or four buttons are unusual (except that
dinner jackets ("black tie") often have only one button). It is rare to find a suit with more than four buttons,
although zoot suits can have as many as six or more due to their longer length. There is also variation in
the placement and style of buttons,[18] since the button placement is critical to the overall impression of
height conveyed by the jacket. The centre or top button will typically line up quite closely with the natural
waistline.[19]
Double-breasted jackets have only half their outer buttons functional, as the second row is for display only,
forcing them to come in pairs. Some rare jackets can have as few as two buttons, and during various
periods, for instance the 1960s and 70s, as many as eight were seen. Six buttons are typical, with two to
button; the last pair floats above the overlap. The three buttons down each side may in this case be in a
straight line (the 'keystone' layout) or more commonly, the top pair is half as far apart again as each pair in
the bottom square. A four-button double-breasted jacket usually buttons in a square. [20] The layout of the
buttons and the shape of the lapel are co-ordinated in order to direct the eyes of an observer. For example,
if the buttons are too low, or the lapel roll too pronounced, the eyes are drawn down from the face, and the
waist appears larger.[21]

Lapels[edit source | editbeta]

Main article: Jacket lapel

A notched lapel

A peaked lapel

A shawl lapel

The jacket's lapels can be notched (also called "stepped"), peaked ("pointed"), shawl, or "trick" (Mandarin
and other unconventional styles). Each lapel style carries different connotations, and is worn with different
cuts of suit. Notched lapels are only found on single-breasted jackets and are the most informal style.
Double-breasted jackets usually have peaked lapels. Shawl lapels are a style derived from the Victorian
informal evening wear, and as such are not normally seen on suit jackets except for dinner suits. [22]
In the 1980s, double-breasted suits with notched lapels were popular with power suits and the New
Wave style.[citation needed]
In the late 1920s and 1930s, a design considered very stylish was the single-breasted peaked lapel jacket.
This has gone in and out of vogue periodically, being popular once again during the 1970s, [citation needed] and is
still a recognised alternative. The ability to properly cut peak lapels on a single-breasted suit is one of the
most challenging tailoring tasks, even for very experienced tailors. [23]
The width of the lapel is a varying aspect of suits, and has changed over the years. The 1930s and 1970s
featured exceptionally wide lapels, whereas during the late 1950s and most of the 1960s suits with very
narrow lapelsoften only about an inch widewere in fashion. The 1980s saw mid-size lapels with a low
gorge (the point on the jacket that forms the "notch" or "peak" between the collar and front lapel). Current
(mid-2000s) trends are towards a narrower lapel and higher gorge. [citation needed] Necktie width usually follows
the width of the jacket lapel.
Lapels also have a buttonhole, intended to hold a boutonnire, a decorative flower. These are now only
commonly seen at more formal events. Usually double-breasted suits have one hole on each lapel (with a
flower just on the left), while single-breasted suits have just one on the left. [24]

Pockets[edit source | editbeta]

Main article: Jacket pocket
Most jackets have a variety of inner pockets, and two main outer pockets, which are generally either patch
pockets, flap pockets, or jetted ("besom") pockets.[25] The patch pocket is, with its single extra piece of cloth
sewn directly onto the front of the jacket, a sporting option, sometimes seen on summer linen suits, or other
informal styles. The flap pocket is standard for side pockets, and has an extra lined flap of matching fabric
covering the top of the pocket. A jetted pocket is most formal, with a small strip of fabric taping the top and
bottom of the slit for the pocket. This style is most often on seen on formalwear, such as a dinner jacket.
A breast pocket is usually found at the left side, where a pocket square or handkerchief can be displayed.
In addition to the standard two outer pockets and breast pocket, some suits have a fourth, the ticket pocket,
usually located just above the right pocket and roughly half as wide. While this was originally exclusively a
feature of country suits, used for conveniently storing a train ticket, it is now seen on some town suits.
Another country feature also worn sometimes in cities is a pair of hacking pockets, which are similar to
normal ones, but slanted; this was originally designed to make the pockets easier to open on horseback
while hacking.[5]

Sleeves[edit source | editbeta]

Suit jackets in all styles typically have three or four buttons on each cuff, which are often purely decorative
(the sleeve is usually sewn closed and cannot be unbuttoned to open). Five buttons are unusual and are a
modern fashion innovation. The number of buttons is primarily a function of the formality of the suit; a very
casual summersports jacket might traditionally (1930s) have had only one button, while tweed suits
typically have three and city suits four. In the 1970s, two buttons were seen on some city suits.[citation
needed]

Today, four buttons are common on most business suits and even casual suits.

Although the sleeve buttons usually cannot be undone, the stitching is such that it appears they could.
Functional cuff buttons may be found on high-end or bespoke suits; this feature is called a surgeon's
cuffand "working button holes" (U.S.).[26] Some wearers leave these buttons undone to reveal that they can
afford a bespoke suit, although it is proper to leave these buttons done up. [27] Modern bespoke styles and
high end off-the-rack suits equipped with surgeon's cuffs have the last two buttons stitched off-centre, so
that the sleeve hangs more cleanly should the buttons ever be undone. Certainty in fitting sleeve length
must be achieved, as once working button holes are cut, the sleeve length essentially cannot be altered
further.
A cuffed sleeve has an extra length of fabric folded back over the arm, or just some piping or stitching
above the buttons to allude to the edge of a cuff. This was popular in the Edwardian era, as a feature of
formalwear such as frock coats carried over to informalwear, but is now rare.

Vents[edit source | editbeta]

A vent is a slit in the bottom rear (the "tail") of the jacket. Originally, vents were a sporting option, designed
to make riding easier, so are traditional on hacking jackets, formal coats such as a morning coat, and, for
practicality, overcoats. Today there are three styles of venting: the single-vented style (with one vent at the
centre); the ventless style; and the double-vented style (one vent on each side). Vents are convenient,
particularly when using a pocket or sitting down, to improve the hang of the jacket, [28] so are now used on
most jackets. Ventless jackets are associated with Italian tailoring, while the double-vented style is typically
British.[5] (This is not the case with all types of jackets. For instance, dinner jackets traditionally take no
vents.)

Waistcoats[edit source | editbeta]

Main article: Waistcoat
Waistcoats (called vests in American English) were almost always worn with suits prior to the 1940s. Due to
rationing during the Second World War, their prevalence declined, but their popularity has gone in and out
of fashion from the 1970s onwards. A pocket watch on a chain, one end of which is inserted through a
middle buttonhole, is often worn with a waistcoat; otherwise, since the First World War when they came to
prominence of military necessity, men have worn wristwatches, which may obviously be worn with any suit.
Although many examples can be found from the 1920s - 1940s of waistcoats being worn with a doublebreasted jacket, that would be unusual today (one point of a double-breasted jacket being, it may be
supposed, to eliminate the waistcoat). Traditionally, the bottom button of a waistcoat is always left undone.

Trousers[edit source | editbeta]

Suit trousers are always made of the same material as the jacket. Even from the 1910s to 1920s, before
the invention of sports jackets specifically to be worn with odd trousers, wearing a suit jacket with odd
trousers was seen as an alternative to a full suit.[29] However, with the modern advent of sports jackets, suit
jackets are always worn with matching trousers, and the trousers have always been worn with the
appropriate jacket.[citation needed]
Trouser width has varied considerably throughout the decades. In the 1920s, trousers were straight-legged
and wide-legged, with a standard width at the cuff of 23 inches. After 1935, trousers began to be tapered in
at the bottom half of the leg. Trousers remained wide at the top of the leg throughout the 1940s. By the
1950s and 1960s, a more slim look had become popular. In the 1970s, suit makers offered a variety of
styles of trousers, including flared, bell bottomed, wide-legged, and more traditional tapered trousers. In the
1980s these styles disappeared in favor of tapered, slim-legged trousers.
One variation in the design of trousers is the use or not of pleats. The most classic style of trouser is to
have two pleats, usually forward, since this gives more comfort sitting and better hang standing. [30] This is
still a common style, and for these reasons of utility has been worn throughout the 20th century. The style
originally descended from the exaggeratedly widened Oxford bags worn in the 1930s in Oxford, which,
though themselves short-lived, began a trend for fuller fronts. [31] The style is still seen as the smartest,
featuring on dress trousers with black and white tie. However, at various periods throughout the last

century, flat fronted trousers with no pleats have been worn, and the swing in fashions has been marked
enough that the more fashion-oriented ready-to-wear brands have not produced both types continuously.
Turn-ups on the bottom of trousers, or cuffs, were initially popularised in the 1890s by Edward VII,[32] and
were popular with suits throughout the 1920s and 1930s. After falling out of style in World War II, they were
not generally popular again, despite serving the useful purpose of adding weight to straighten the hang of
the trousers. They have always been an informal option, being inappropriate on all formalwear.
Other variations in trouser style include the rise of the trouser. This was very high in the early half of the
20th century, particularly with formalwear, with rises above the natural waist, [33] to allow the waistcoat
covering the waistband to come down just below the narrowest point of the chest. Though serving less
purpose, this high height was duplicated in the daywear of the period. Since then, fashions have changed,
and have rarely been that high again with styles returning more to low-rise trousers, even dropping down to
have waistbands resting on the hips. Other changing aspects of the cut include the length, which
determines the break, the bunching of fabric just above the shoe when the front seam is marginally longer
than height to the shoe's top. Some parts of the world, such as Europe, traditionally opt for shorter trousers
with little or no break, while Americans often choose to wear a slight break. [34]
A final major distinction is made in whether the trousers take a belt or braces (suspenders). While a belt
was originally never worn with a suit, the forced wearing of belts during wartime years (caused by
restrictions on use of elastic caused by wartime shortages) contributed to their rise in popularity, with
braces now much less popular than belts. When braces were common, the buttons for attaching them were
placed on the outside of the waistband, because they would be covered by a waistcoat or cardigan, but
now it is more frequent to button on the inside of the trouser. Trousers taking braces are rather different in
cut at the waist, employing inches of extra girth and also height at the back. The split in the waistband at
the back is in the fishtail shape. Those who prefer braces assert that, because they hang from the
shoulders, they always make the pants fit and hang exactly as they should, while a belt may allow the
pants waist to slip down on the hips or below a protruding midsection, and requires constant repositioning;
also, they allow, indeed work best with, a slightly looser waist which gives room for natural expansion when
seated.

Breeches[edit source | editbeta]

As an alternative to trousers, breeches (or knickers in variations of English where this does not refer to
underwear) may be worn with informal suits, such as tweed. These are shorter, descending to just below
the knees, fastened closely at the top of the calf by a tab or button cuff. While once common, they are now
typically only worn when engaged in traditional outdoor sports, such as shooting or golf. The length and
design is closely related to the plus-fours (and plus-sixes etc.) worn for sport, but differ in having no
bagginess. They are usually designed to be worn with long socks meeting just below the knee, but riding
breeches, worn with long boots such as top boots, are long enough to meet the boot and display no sock.[35]

Accessories[edit source | editbeta]

Accessories for suits include neckties, shoes, wrist- and pocket watches, pocket squares, cuff links, tie
tacks, tie bars, bow ties and hats.

Situations for wearing and perceptions of suits [edit source | editbeta]

The examples and perspective in this article deal primarily with the United States and do n
represent a worldwide view of the subject. Please improve this article and discuss the issue
on the talk page. (November 2009)

Former US Secretary of

Rock musician Nick

StateCondoleezza Rice andTurkish Cavewears a pinstripe suit

President Abdullah Gl wearing

while performing onstage.

Western-style business suits.

Because wearing a suit conveys a respectable image, many people wear suits during the job
interview process.[36] An interview suit is usually a conservative style, and often made of blue or grey fabric.
Interview suits are frequently composed of wool or wool-blend fabric, with a solid or pin stripe pattern.
[37]

The style of an interview suit, however, will depend on the organizational culture of the industry in which

a person seeks employment.

In modern society, men's suits have become less common as an outfit of daily wear. During the 1990s, the
prevailing management philosophy of the time favored more casual attire for employees; the aim was to
encourage a sense of openness and egalitarianism. "Business casual" dress still tends to be the norm for
most workers up to and sometimes including mid-level management. Traditional business dress as an
everyday style is generally limited to middle- and upper-level corporate management (now sometimes
collectively referred to as "suits"),[38] and to the professions (particularly law). Casual dress has also
become common in Western academic institutions.
For many lower-class men, particularly in Western society, wearing a suit is reserved for special occasions,
such as weddings, funerals, and other more formal social events. Hence, because they are not a daily outfit
for most men, they are often viewed as being "stuffy" and uncomfortable. The combination of a tie, belt and
vest can be tight and restrictive compared to contemporary casual wear, especially when these are

purchased at minimal cost and quality for rare occasions, rather than being made to be worn comfortably.
This tendency became prevalent enough that the Christian Science Monitor reported that a suit combined
with a necktie and slacks was "a design that guarantees that its wearer will be uncomfortable."

[39]

During

the late 1960s and early 1970s, men's suits became less commonly worn, in much the same way that skirts
and dresses were dropped by many women in favour of trousers. This was seen as a liberation from the
conformity of earlier periods and occurred concurrently with the women's liberation movement.
Also remarkable is that the suit now frequently appears in Rock, Heavy Metal and Gothic happenings, even
though such groups were once known for a rather rebellious tradition of clothing. Artists and bands such
as Nick Cave, Marilyn Manson, Blutengel and Akercocke are known for the use of formal clothing in music
videos and stage performances. The suit also appears when fans dress for styles such as Lolita, Victorian
and Corporate Gothic.

Suit etiquette for men[edit source | editbeta]

This section does not cite any references or sources. Please help improve this section
by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged
and removed. (August 2008)

Buttoning the suit jacket[edit source | editbeta]

The buttoning of the jacket is primarily determined by the button stance, a measure of how high the buttons
are in relation to the natural waist. In some (now unusual) styles where the buttons are placed high, the
tailor would have intended the suit to be buttoned differently from the more common lower stance.
Nevertheless, some general guidelines are given here.
Double-breasted suit coats are almost always kept buttoned. When there is more than one button to fasten
(as in a traditional six-on-two arrangement), only the top one need be fastened; in some configurations, the
wearer may elect to fasten only the bottom button, in order to present a longer line (a style popularised
by Prince George, Duke of Kent).
Single-breasted suit coats may be either fastened or unfastened. In two-button suits the bottom button is
traditionally left unfastened except with certain unusual cuts of jacket. Legend has it that King Edward
VIIstarted the trend of leaving the bottom button of a suit as well as waistcoat undone. [40]
When fastening a three-button suit, the middle button is fastened, and the top one sometimes, but the
bottom is traditionally not designed to be (although in the past some jackets were cut so that it could be
fastened without distorting the drape; this is not the case with current clothing). A four-button suit is
untraditional and so has no traditional guidelines on buttoning, but the middle ones at least should be
fastened. Additionally, the one button suit has regained some popularity (it is also one of the classic styles
of Savile Row tailoring). The button should always be fastened while standing.
With a single-breasted suit, it is proper to have the buttons unfastened while sitting down to avoid an ugly
drape. A good double-breasted suit is usually able to be left buttoned, to avoid the difficulty of constantly
redoing inner buttons when standing up.

Ties with suits[edit source | editbeta]

Main article: Necktie
Working with neckties is very much a matter of personal taste, but in conservative terms there are some
basic guidelines.
Colour: Ties should always be darker than the wearer's shirt. The background colour of the tie should not
be the same as that of the shirt, while the foreground of the tie should contain the colour of the shirt and
thereby "pick up" on the colour of the shirt. Ideally, the tie should also integrate the colour of the suit in the
same way. Generally, simple or subdued patterns are preferred for conservative dress, though these are
terms with a wide range of interpretation. During the late 1990s and early 2000s, it became popular to
match the necktie colour with the shirt (a "monochromatic" look popularized by TV personality Regis
Philbin) or even wearing a lighter coloured tie with a darker shirt, usually during formal occasions. A light
blue shirt with a blue tie that is darker in its colour is also common.
Knot: Some of the most common knots are the Four-in-hand, the Half-Windsor, the Windsor (often called a
Full-Windsor or Double-Windsor to distinguish it from the half-Windsor) and the Shelby or Pratt. A Four-inhand, Half-Windsor, or Windsor is generally the most appropriate with a suit, particularly by contemporary
guidelines. Once properly knotted and arranged, the bottom of the tie can extend anywhere from the
wearer's navel level, to slightly below the waistband. The thin end should not extend below the wide end,
though this can occasionally be seen to be acceptable with thin ties.
Alternatives: In the 1960s, it was fashionable for men as well as women to wear scarves with a suit in a
tied knot either inside a shirt as an Ascot or under the collar as would be worn like a tie. [citation needed]This style
began to fade by the mid-1970s and came back in the 1990s mainly for women. It did however make a
small comeback by 2005 and some famous stars wear them. Although some wore scarves back in the
1960s, ties were still preferred among business workers.
Bow Ties: Bow ties have always provided an alternative to neckties, and even preceded the necktie. Bow
ties are even regarded, arguably, as more formal or dressy than neckties, especially when worn with suits.
During the "powerdressing," or "dress for success" days of the 1980s, bow ties, though in the minority,
certainly had their share of the business and professional fashion market. This included women
professionals, who wore a slightly fuller version of the bow tie with the skirt suits and buttoned-up blouses
popular in the business world. Bow ties, for professional men or women, typically were the same fabrics,
colors, and patterns as neckties.

Shirts with suits[edit source | editbeta]

Main article: Dress shirt

Socks with suits[edit source | editbeta]

In the United States it is common for socks to match the trouser leg.[41] This makes the leg appear longer
and minimises the attention drawn by a trouser leg tailored to be too short. A more general rule is for socks

to be darker than the shade of the trousers, but potentially a different colour. With patterned socks, ideally
the background colour of the sock should match the primary colour of the suit. If it is not possible to match
the trouser leg, socks may match one's shoes. In particular, pale or even white socks might be worn with,
for example, a cream linen suit with white shoes. [citation needed]
Socks are preferably[citation needed] at least mid-calf height, if not knee-height (over-the-calf), and are usually
made predominantly of cotton or wool, though luxury or dress socks may use more exotic blends such as
silk and cashmere. Before World War II, patterned socks were common, and a variety of designs
like Argyle or contrasting socks was commonly seen. After WWII, socks became more subdued in colour. In
lieu of over-the-calf length (which will stay up by itself), some men still use garters to hold up their socks,
but this is unusual.

Suit etiquette for women[edit source | editbeta]

This section does not cite any references or sources. Please help improve this section
by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged
and removed. (February 2011)

A women's trouser suit

A women's skirt suit

Suit-wearing etiquette for women generally follows the same guidelines used by men, with a few
differences and more flexibility.
For women, the dress suit, skirt suit or pant (trouser) suit are all acceptable; a blouse, which can be white
or colored, takes the place of a shirt. Women's suits can also be worn with colored tops or t-shirts.
Women's suits come in a larger variety of colors such as darks, pastels, and gem colors. Skirt suits are as
popular as pant suits (trouser suits).

Women generally do not wear neckties with their suits. Fancy silk scarves that resemble a floppy ascot
tie became popular in North America in the 1970s, worn with pant suits. By the 1980s, women were
entering the white-collar workforce in increasing numbers and their dress fashions adopted looks not
dissimilar from men's business wear. By the early to mid-1980s, conservatively-tailored skirt suits were the
norm, in the same colors and fabrics considered standard in men's suits. These were typically worn with
buttoned-up collared blouses, usually white or some pastel in color. These were frequently accessorized
with a version of the bow tie, usually the same fabrics, colors, and patterns as men's neckties and bow ties,
but tied in a fuller bow at the collar.