TEXTILE FIBERS

by

: Irvan Handri setyo Budi

E-mail : budiirvan346@ymail.com
Institute of Textile Technology, Bandung Indonesia

1.1 Classification of Tetile Fibers

Woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, laces, braids, nets, felfed fabrics, and nonwoven fabrics are
made from textile fibers. Many Kind of textile fibers have been used to make those fabrics
since ancient times. It is estimated that the number of these fibers is more than 1,00, but this
number will be increased in future due to the development of synthetic fibers.
The Present textile Fibers, However, can be classified according to their origin, i.e. natural or
man-made as follows;
Natural Fibers
1. Vegetable Fibers: Cotton, Flax (linen), Ramie, Jute, Manila, Coir, etc.
2. Animal Fibers: Wool, Silk, etc.
3. Mineral fibers: Asbestos

Man-made fibers (chemical fibers)

1. Regenerated fibers ( Man-made fibers from natural polymers): Rayon, Polynosic, Cupra
(Bemberg)
2. Semi-Synthetic fibers (Man-made fibers from a chemically modified natural polymers:
Acetate, Triacetate, Promix (Protein and Vinyl-monomers)
3.Synthetic fibers (Man-made fibers from synthetic polymers): Polyamide (Nylon), Polyester,
Polyvinylidene chloride, Polyvinyl alchohl, polyviynl chloride, Polyacrylonitrile ( Acrylics),
Polyethlena, Polypropylene, Polyurethane, etc
4. Inorganic fibers (Man-made fibers from non-polymers and carbonized polymers): Metal,
Carbon (carbonized polyacrilonitrile, i.e. PAN, and oil-tar or coal-tar pitch fibers), Glass,
Ceramic,etc
Table 1-1 shows the historical progress of the world production of textile fibers.
Among the synthetic fibers, polyamide, polyester, and acrylics are the most popular textile
fibers today as shown in Table 1-2

1.2 Properties of Textile Fibers

The geometrical, physical, and chemical properties of the textile fibers are very important
factors for processing those fibers into any kind of textile article. For instance, regarding
fibers length, the textile fiber must be a long filament with a suitable cross sectional shape.
Table 1-1. World Production of Textile Fibers (1,000t)
Year

Cotton

Woll

Silk

Rayon/Acetate Synthetics Total

1945

4,667

1,034

11

601

17

6,330

1955

9,492

1,265

29

2,278

266

13,330

1965

11,605

1,493

33

3,338

2,052

18,521

1975

11,757

1,538

47

2,959

7,353

23,654

1985

16,578

1,678

59

2,928

12,500

33,743

Table 1-2 World Production of Synthtic Fibers (%)

Fibers

1970

1975

1980

1985

1987

1988

Polyamide

40

33

30

26

25

24

Polyester

34

45

47

50

52

53

Acrylics

21

19

19

18

17

17

Other Synthetics

Total

100

100

100

100

100

100

Approximate lengths of some material fibers are 25 to 355mm for cotton, 30 to 300mm for
wool, and 300 to 600mm for flax. The strength of spun-yarns is increased, generally, in
proportion to the length of the fiber used within a limited range. However, from a
manufacturing view point, there is a suitable fiber length for processing the material by using
several kinds of present yarn or fabric manufacturing systems.

a. Polyester (for Spun-like)

b.Polyester (for Spun-like)

The man-made fibers can be varied in their length. Fineness, and cross sectional shape
(profile) to meet their demands. The fines fibers can give a good appearance and handle to
their textile articles. The profile of fibers also affects their handling and appearance. Fibers
with a triangle profile have similar handle to silk, i.e. silk-like materials. Figure 1-1 shows the
fibers with interesting profiles. Tble 1-3 shows some of the technical properties of textile

c.Polyester (for Luster)

d. Polyester/Nylon (for Super-fine)

fibers.
Table 1-3. Technical Properties of Textile Fibers
Fibers
(F:Filament),

Tensil strength (g/d)

Specific

(Dry)

gravity

(Wet)

(S:Staple)

Regain
(%) 20

Effect of heat (
(Soften)

(Melt)

65%

Polyester F

4.3-9.0

4.3-9.0

1.38

0.4

238-240

255-260

Polyester S

4.7-6.5

4.7-6.5

1.38

0.4

238-240

255-260

Acrylics S

2.5-5.0

2.0-4-5

1.14-

2.0

190-240

1.17
Nylon F

4.8-10.0

4.2-9.0

1.14

4.5

180(N6)

215-220(N6)

Polypropylene S

4.5-7.5

4.5-7.5

0.91

140-160

165-173

0.94-

100-115

125-135

200-230

Polypropylene F

(Low-pressure)
5.0-9.0

5.0-9.0

0.96

Polyurethane F

0.6-1.2

0.6-1.2

1.0-1.3

1.0

Rayon S

2.5-4.2

1.4-3.3

1.50-

11.0

260-300: decomposition

11.0

260-300: decomposition

11.0

Same as Rayon

1.52
Rayon F

1.7-5.2

0.8-4.1

1.501.52

Polynosic S

3.8-5.2

2.8-4.2

1.50-

1.52
Cupra F

1.8-2.7

1.1-1.9

1.50

11.0

Same as Rayon

Acetate F

1.2-1.4

0.7-0.9

1.32

6.5

200-230

260

Triacetate F

1.2-1.4

0.8-1.0

1.30

3.5

250

300

Promix F

3.5-4.5

3.2-4.2

1.22

5.0

270: decomposition

Silk

3.0-4.0

2.1-2.8

1.33-

11.0

235: decomposition

1.45
Wool

1.0-2.0

0.76-1.63

1.32

15.0

130: decomposition

Cotton

3.0-4.9

3.3-6.4

1.54

8.5

245: decomposition

Flax

6.5

7.7

1.5

12.0

200: decomposition

1.3 Modifications of Textile Fibers

It is said that there no chance of inventing a new type of fiber as significant as nylon,
polyester, or acrylics. However, there are many ways to change or modify a man-made fiber.
All these techniques have played a rol in making man-made fibers more natural-softer, more
lustrous, mre comfortable, easier to care for, more pleasing to the eye and hand, e.g., silklike, spun-like, leather-like. etc. Figure 1-2 shows a manufacturing process for synthtic-fiber
yarns.
in Figure 1-2;
1. Chemical process of manufacturing the polymer. The polymer is the raw material of manmade fibers.
Figure 1-2 . Manufacturing Process for Synthetic-Fiber Yarns
Polymerization

Melt-Spining
and Drawing

Fiber Processing
(Physical)

Finishing (Chemical)

2. Polymer chips are melted under high temperatures. The filament yarn extruded from a
nozzle is wound on a package and drawn out to give it strength. This is done heated draw
rolls.
3. The filament yarn is twisted, crimped, interlaced, blended according to order, e.g. silklike.linen-like, spun-like, wool-like ,etc.
4. Mainly processed in fabric, e.g. Surface treatment, resin, permanent pres.
Figure 1-3 shows a spinning and take-up process for synthetic filament yarns.

Figure 1-3. Spinning and Take-up Winding for Synthetic-Filament Yarns

General examples for man-made fiber modification and its rocess are as follows;
1. Appearance and handling
Shrink resistance Finishing process
Loft and bulk Fiber processing or Spinning/Drawing process
SilkyFiber processing or Spinning/Drawing process
DrapeFiber processing or spinning/drawing process
Pill resistancepolymerization
DyeabilityPolymerization

2. Functionality
Elasticity Spinning/Drawing process
StrengthSpinning/Drawing process
High-Youngs modulesSpinning/Drawing process
Antistatic behaviorFinishing process or Polymerization
Hydrophilic propertyFinishing process or polymerization
Soil resistanceFinishing process

FlameproofFinishing process or Polymerization

Thermal resistanceNew material

So-called composite fibers are custom-tailored fibers for specialized end uses, e.g. self
crimping )for fabrics, stockings), segment separation (for super-fine fibers), self bonding (for
non-wovens), electric conductive (for antistatic), light conductive (for optical fibers), etc.
These fibers are generally divided into two basic categories; 1) two different polymers joined
in a single filament before or after extrusion, and 2 ) two different filaments or staples joined
together at the several stages in the yarn manufacturing process,i.e. spinning, drawing,
twisting,etc. Some of these examples are shown schematically in Figure 1-4.

a. Two Different Polymers Joined i a Single Filament

b.Two Different Filaments Joined Together

References
Dr.Teruo ISHIDA, An Introduction to Textile Technology, Japan, December 1990