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over130 years
in the business of
retailing jewellery

canadian jeweller

Bright Lights, Gold City

Italian jewellery is still going
ial strong with insights direct
Spec e from Choice at Vicenza
Featuers of
The W ence in
xcell Educational Spotlight
CJ’s E wards

i g n A What it takes to become a

jeweller and what happens
after graduation

One Step Ahead

Attracting top talent
in tough times Metamorphosis
Guy Couture and Stéphane Lavoie
Rising Stars from Quebec’s Bijouterie Giffard
Introducing the newest
design darlings Manya &


001.CJ_Cover.indd 3 11/4/09 3:55:48 PM

Simplify custom design
to four easy steps.


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Stock #





2029 1.01 RBC D SI1 6.26x6.35x4.05 64.2 57.2 EX G NONE -30% HW VG
335C+1 0.92 RBC D INF 6.21x6.25x3.9 62.8 55.4 VG VG NONE -35% HW VG
2144+1 1.28 PEAR D VVS1 8.81x6.10x4.0 65.8 54.0 VG VG NONE -25% HW VG
920+1 3.43 OVAL D SI2 7.84x12.8x5.32 67.8 58.5 VG VG NONE -40% HW VG
2118+1 1.46 EMERALD D INF 8.32x5.28x3.69 69.8 68.0 VG VG NONE -20% HW VG
1E+1 5.05 RBC D SI1 10.95x11.03x6.8 62.1 57.0 VG VG NONE -25% HW VG
10+1 3.01 RBC D INF 9.12x9.18x5.75 62.8 58.0 EX VG NONE -30% HW VG
917+1 4.00 PEAR D SI1 14.02x9.08x5.49 60.8 55.0 VG VG NONE -30% HW VG
725A+12 1.07 PRINCESS E VVS2 5.73x5.80x3.91 68.1 75.1 VG G NONE -30% HW G
25 2.33 RBC E SI2 8.45x8.51x5.27 62.1 59.8 EX VG NONE -25% HW VG
119 1.33 RBC E I1 7.23x7.20x4.25 58.8 60.9 G G NONE -20% HW VG
696E+O 1.50 PRINCESS F VVS2 6.17x6.19x4.67 75.6 75.6 VG G NONE -30% HW VG
937+C+1 1.81 PEAR F SI1 10.89x6.88x3.94 57.0 61.0 VG VG NONE -25% HW VG
121A 1.40 RBC F VS1 7.21x7.26x4.41 61.1 55.3 EX G NONE -5% HW EX
10F 3.04 RBC F SI2 9.22x9.27x5.81 62.9 55.8 EX EX NONE -25% HW EX
196 1.09 RBC F SI2 6.70x6.76x4.03 59.8 56.8 EX G NONE -30% HW VG
70+1 1.75 RBC F SI2 7.73x7.78x4.73 61.0 56.2 EX G NONE -30% HW VG
690E 2.01 PRINCESS G VS1 6.90x6.62x5.04 64.7 52.5 G VG NONE -40% HW G
30 2.01 RBC G SI1 7.88x7.98x6.04 63.5 58.5 VG VG NONE -35% HW VG
691 2.01 RADIANT I VS2 7.20x6.88x4.80 69.7 69.5 G G NONE -40% HW G

Canada’s REAL Diamond House.

Our Diamonds MAKE you want to come back.

To add your name to our mailing list please forward your request to sales@sapirdiamonds.com
55 Queen St. E. Suite 501, Toronto, Ontario M5C 1R6
Radiant Stone Phone: 416-863-6036/7 Toll Free: 1-866-387-1759 Fax: 416-863-0671 Round Stone
5.01 ct www.SapirDiamonds.com 5.05 ct
SI1, I, VG marks@sapirdiamonds.com keith@sapirdiamonds.com SI1, D, VG
For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 85

DiamondGuide_Ad-November.indd 1 10/14/09 3:42:11 PM

CJ.Nov09_Sapir_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:18:59 PM

The New Destination for the International Jewellery Trade
at the Beginning of the Year

UBM Asia Ltd

17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong
Tel : (852) 2585 6179 / 2516 1677 Fax : (852) 3749 7542
Email : salesjwf@cmpasia.com

For details, write #104 on Free Info Page, page 85


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Feeling like a movie star




For details, write #105 on Free Info Page, page 85

U.S. Pat. No. 7,007,507 • © • All rights reserved • PANDORA-JEWELRY.COM

CJ_Nov09_Pandora.indd 1 9/14/2009 9:22:18 AM

CJ.Nov09_Pandora_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:23:04 PM
Diamonds are not shown to scale

O’Neill Diamonds Inc.

#622-736 Granville St. Phone: 604-909-0818
Vancouver, B.C Fax: 604-909-0272
V6Z 1G3 T-Free: 1866-9O’Neill(662-455) www.caratsmart.ca
For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 85

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years of
expertise and
Canadian owned and operated –
providing highest quality gemological services
to Canada and the world.

usa - dallas
5525 N MacArthur Blvd., Suite 620 Irving, Texas 75038 Tel: 972 580 7771 or 1 888 580 7771 Fax: 972 580 7767

canada - toronto
27 Queen Street E., Suite 406 Toronto, Ontario m5c 2m6 Tel: 416 868 6656 or 1 877 868 6656 Fax: 416 868 6558

india - mumbai / chennai

6A, Unity House, Above SBI Opera House, Mumbai 400 004 Tel: +91 22 236 736 12

www.gslaboratories.com iso 9001 registered

For details, write #107 on Free Info Page, page 85

CJ.Nov09_GS_Labs_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:34:10 PM

Established 1879 NOVEMber 2009 • vol. 130, no. 6
Marc Tremblay Guest Editor
Olivier Felicio President, Publisher | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com

Paul Aguirre Associate Editor | paul@rivegauchemedia.com

Carol Besler Editorial Consultant
Danielle Ng-See-Quan Editorial Assistant | danielle@rivegauchemedia.com
Subha Arulvarathan Editorial Intern | intern@rivegauchemedia.com

Scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com

Leslie Ross Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com
Jordan Martinez Production Manager | jordan@rivegauchemedia.com

Melanie Seth Accounting and Administration | finance@rivegauchemedia.com

Daniel Hare Administration Coordinator | dan@rivegauchemedia.com
CONTRIBUTORS Robin Gambhir, Sarah B. Hood, Howard Grosfield,
Stacy Karjala, Amber Klaehn, Daniel Marquez,
Duncan Parker, Jerome Scullino, Bonnie Siegler,
Norma Meneguzzi Spall.
Lucy Holden Associate publisher
tel. (416)203-7900 ext. 6117
email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com

Sarah Perkin ADVERTISING Sales

tel. (416)203-7900 ext. 6126
email sarah@rivegauchemedia.com

Jeff Yamaguchi ADVERTISING Sales

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122
email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com

Deborah Brewster circulation Manager

tel. (416)203-7900 ext. 6118 fax (416) 703-6392
email deborah@rivegauchemedia.com

Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106

Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3B8
tel. (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392

Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507

Montreal, Quebec, H2N 2J2
tel. (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223
toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117

Subscription Rates
Canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. United States — one year, US$44. Foreign — one year US$56 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.)
8% P.S.T. for Newfoundland, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $5; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50 per
subscription per year (Canada only).
Change of Address
email: deborah@rivegauchemedia.com telephone: (416) 203-7900 ext 6109 fax: (416) 703-6392
or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller magazine, 60 Bloor Street West,
Suite 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8
Published by Rive Gauche Media II Inc.

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any
and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints
in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No
portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited
submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or
hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent
of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media,
60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8.

Official magazine of JVC

For details, write #108 on Free Info Page, page 85

8 CJ november 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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For details, write #108 on Free Info Page, page 85

CJ.Nov09_JSN_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:38:20 PM

table of

40 Metamorphosis
An interview with the family behind Bijouterie Giffard.

46 The Original Beauty

What’s the story behind the pearl market?

50 Leaders of the Pack

Unveiling the winners of CJ’s Excellence
in Design Awards.

62 Revolutionary Road
Why e-learning is tomorrow’s classroom.

64 One Step Ahead

Continuing our finance series, we look at getting the right
people for your business.

65 School Report Card

A look at the state of the system educating Canada’s
future jewellers and designers.

70 Bright Lights, Gold City

New initiatives and designs direct from Choice at Vicenza.


10 CJ november 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

010-012.CJ_Contents_re.indd 10 11/3/09 3:43:42 PM

For details, write #109 on Free Info Page, page 85

CJ.Nov09_Butterfly_Gems_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:37:41 PM

table of
Departments 59
14 Letter from the Guest Editor

18 Product Showcase

22 Who’s News 74 Star Watch

Wild jewellery debuts; Sharapova shines; GIA names
new President.
76 What’s On
26 For The Record
Birks gets homey; JCK Las Vegas moves; 77 Showcase
Stuller goes social.

30 Stock Index 85 Fax Back

32 Mining News 86 Last Word

All the happenings in the mining sector.

33 Market Watch
What happens to future jewellers after graduation?

36 Face Value
How to navigate the good and the bad when it comes

to appraisals.

56 Company Profile
J.S.N Jewellery Inc.

59 Designer Profile
Manya & Roumen

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MARCH 18 – 25, 2010

For details, write #110 on Free Info Page, page 85

bsw2010_229x276_e.indd 1 11.8.2009 10:43:17 Uhr

CJ.Nov09_the_Whole_Media_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:40:05 PM


Love of the Trade

As the economists and the media have told you this year, the recession
is still knocking hard and the recovery is slow. Nevertheless, the Quebec
industry is pulling through quite well, especially in small towns.
Those who will pull through best are most certainly people of the
trade — those who create, make, repair and reinvent the jeweller’s
shop every day. For these people, the recession is less difficult
than for many others who are only distributing or selling jewels.
Another strength of our industry is that many companies are family
businesses, and in my opinion, this is a great advantage, especially
in more difficult times.
I have known the Bijouterie Giffard family for 15 years now. Since
then, I have observed how the company and the unique worldwide
brand they have created has evolved — as both a solid in-house
brand for the Giffard retail operation and as a product that can be
wholesaled to other retailers. It’s an immense pleasure that, as guest
editor of this issue, I introduce Stéphane Lavoie, Guy Couture and
the other members of this family, who remind us of what is great
about this trade. Stéphane Lavoie’s marketing strategies are as
unique in Canada as the Butterfly cut itself. Have a great holiday
selling season!

Marc Tremblay
Marc Tremblay

Guest Editor
Bijouterie Lampron, Drummondville, Quebec

14 CJ NOVEMBER 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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Fine Diamond Jewellery
Collection in 19K Gold


400 - 736 Granville Street, Vancouver, B.C. V6Z 1G3 t 604.684.1131 1.800.663.0177 dhiren@geengee.com

Travel Representatives needed for Western USA and all Provinces of Canada, Please contact the office.
For details, write #111 on Free Info Page, page 85

CJ.Nov09_GnG_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:42:29 PM


Canadian Jeweller’s Editorial Board

Mark Lash Judy Richards Myles Mindham

Mark Lash’s Fine Jewellery Davidson’s Jewellers Mindham Fine Jewellery Inc.

Brent Trepel Frank Damiani

Ben Moss Jewellers Damiani Jewellers

To find out more about Canadian Jeweller’s Editorial Board,

please contact Paul Aguirre, Associate Editor, at paul@rivegauchemedia.com.

16 CJ november 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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For details, write #112 on Free Info Page, page 85

CJ.Nov09_Hong_Kong_Trade_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:47:36 PM


The Butterfly Effect

The theory behind the butterfly effect is that any good deed, however
small, creates a ripple effect that can change the world. Supporting
a cause we hold dear, being environmentally friendly, helping our JOMARK
fellow man, and encouraging our kids to achieve their full potential Has been Canada’s premier distributor of European gold
are all simple things we can do to create a butterfly effect. Butterflies jewellery since 1989. Offering an extensive range of gold
carry rich symbolism of universal appeal which symbolizes birth, jewellery, JOMARK’s high standards and passion, guarantees
change and transformation. Inspired by the symbolism of the high quality luxury jewellery delivered across Canada. All gold is
butterfly effect, the BFly® jewellery collection expresses our desire to imported from the world’s fashion capital, Italy. Acquire luxury
make this a better world. www.bfly.ca. For more information, write jewellery from the unsurpassed gold distributor, JOMARK. For
125 on the Free Info Card on page 85. more information, write 126 on the Free Info Card on page 85.

Nova Diamonds
Known for their unique attributes and aesthetically pleasing
designs, Nova Diamonds reveals their latest creation, the Siffari’s Signature Collection
Spotted Bangle. The Spotted Bangle strategically mixes black A tradition in excellence continues with Siffari’s Signature
and white diamonds to create a visually stunning piece. All Collection. Manufactured entirely in Canada, Siffari has combined
diamonds are VS-SI quality and E-F-G colours, set in 18K unique design and detailed craftsmanship in this stunning
white gold. For more information contact Nova Diamonds at collection. Featured here is a 14K two-tone gold ring with 0.21
(416) 868-6682. Reference: DBN8-183 For more information, cts of natural yellow diamonds and .58 cts of white diamonds. For
write 127 on the Free Info Card on page 85. more information, write 128 on the Free Info Card on page 85.

18 CJ november 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

016-021.CJ_Product_re.indd 18 10/29/09 12:52:10 PM

The heart & soul
of wedding bands

1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Quebec H3A-2G4

Tel. 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257 - E-mail: atlanticeng@bellnet.ca
For details, write #113 on Free Info Page, page 85

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CJ.Nov09_Atlantic_Engraving_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:49:08 PM

Individual Expression
For half a century, Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has been an industry
JSN Diamonds Sparkle leader, and as third generation jewellers, has taken the ultimate
JSN is one of Canada’s leading jewellery manufacturers with an symbol of commitment beyond the wedding band and classic
arsenal of five brands that range from entry-level product to a fully- eternity ring. Featuring coloured metals and unique finishes, an
certified premium Canadian diamond line. With offices in Canada, Atlantic ring is an expression of individuality. Each ring produced
the United Kingdom and the United States, along with a plant in is made of seamless tubing and is cut with diamond tipped tools
Bangkok, Thailand, JSN has achieved a high level of recognition on the highest state-of-the-art European machinery, and no ring
on the international stage. For more information, write 129 on the leaves the factory without extensive quality control. For more
Free Info Card on page 85. information, write 130 on the Free Info Card on page 85.

BASELWORLD – The Watch and Jewellery Show

Preparations for the World Watch and Jewellery Show
BASELWORLD 2010 (March 18 to 25, 2010) have been successfully
launched. Some 2,000 exhibitors - specialists in watches, jewellery,
Aquarella™ Collection from Stuller precious gems and related brands - will showcase their latest
This earring and necklace ensemble offers double fashion flavor products to those in the industry. All the eminent brands will be
with its distinctive combination of 10MM and larger, lustrous present in Basel once again next spring. Reason enough for about
cultured pearls and equally sized, hand-selected cabochon 100,000 retailers and wholesalers from all over the world to make
gemstones. The length of the necklace is 25”-27” depending on the the journey to Basel to visit this presentation of the latest trends
length of the pearls. Exclusively unique, exclusively Stuller. For and creations. www.baselworld.com For more information, write
more information, write 131 on the Free Info Card on page 85. 132 on the Free Info Card on page 85.

20 CJ november 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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The Gilloro Design Collection

Looping Earrings by Vianna Brasil We proudly introduce Gilloro Designs, the latest addition to the
Photo: Rogério Franco © Gee ‘n Gee Family of fine diamond jewellery collections. The
White gold earrings set with Black Quartz, Smoky Quartz and Gilloro collection is a playful combination of colored diamonds
Diamonds. and fancy cut stones all set in either 19K white, yellow or rose gold.
Vianna’s looping line is a reinterpretation of the traditional hoops. The collection includes stunning pendant and earring sets, pave
The metal wire is replaced by gemstones, either disorderly shaped encrusted rings and open solitaire settings surrounded by pave set
or straight lines. Diamond accents bring light to the set. For more diamonds. For more information, write 134 on the Free Info Card
information, write 133 on the Free Info Card on page 85. on page 85.

GS Laboratories introduces Firetrace, which now makes it possible
for clients to accurately measure the light performance of their
diamonds. This technology analyzes the light-reflecting properties The PANDORA Line
of a diamond and allows you to determine how much life is in your Danish designed PANDORA offers a universe of jewellery including
stones — one more way that GS Laboratories can help you ensure charm bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings — in 14K gold, sterling
your diamonds stand out in a crowd. For more information, write silver and some with semi-precious or precious gems. Each piece is
135 on the Free Info Card on page 85. beautifully handcrafted and finished, and many can be personalized
to reflect one’s own personal style. For more information, write 136
on the Free Info Card on page 85.

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m november 2009 CJ 21

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Find out who is

making headlines in
the jewellery industry. Sharapova Models
Gehry-Designed Earrings
Binns Brings Bling to Burton’s Tennis star Maria Sharapova continues her
Alice in Wonderland partnership with Tiffany & Co. as she rocked
Celebrity jewellery designer Tom Binns has a pair of earrings at the U.S. Open designed
been tapped by Walt Disney Studios to create by renowned architect Frank Gehry, in
a line of jewellery inspired by Tim Burton’s collaboration with the brand. A native of
latest movie project Alice in Wonderland Toronto, Gehry is famous for designing the
starring Johnny Depp, Anne Hathaway and Guggenheim Museum in Spain and recently
other big names. Binns is no stranger to the Art Gallery of Ontario. “The earrings have
such attention, as celebrities and fashionistas a distinctive shape that is like the fluid lines
alike love his surreal pieces. Michelle Obama of Frank Gehry’s architecture. I am thrilled to
became a client when she wore a Binns wear these elegant earrings at the U.S. Open,”
necklace to her first Washington ball last noted Sharapova.
winter. The projected 35-piece line ranges
from $100 to $500 in department stores, with Maria Sharapova wearing Tiffany’s Fran
k Gehry-designed Gillies Takes the Helm of Martin Ross
six pieces being sold in luxury boutiques from earrings to the U.S. Open. Martin Ross Group has appointed industry
$1,000 to $2,000. The line and the movie will veteran Cameron Gillies as President,
debut simultaneously in Spring 2010. continuing the work of the late Varuj
Phillips Takes on New Role Arkarakas. He will be responsible for day-to-
Canadian Jeweller Announcement with Corona Jewellery Co. day operations of all divisions, along with the
Olivier Felicio, President of Rive Gauche Jon Phillips, G.G., has been appointed to the company’s factory, production and sales and
Media is pleased to announce the promotion newly-created role of Divisional Manager of marketing groups. Gillies comes to Martin
of Lucy Holden to Associate Publisher. With Canadian Diamonds with Corona Jewellery Ross from Allura International, where he was
Style and Canadian Jeweller magazines since Company. With more than 30 years of President of its associated companies since
2000, Lucy has over 25 years experience in experience in the industry, Phillips’ track 2008. He has also worked with the Dales
sales and customer service, and brings a record includes Henry Birks and Sons, his of Edmonton group and A&A Jewellers. He
strong dedication to the growth of Canadian own manufacturing business in Vancouver brings to Martin Ross years of experience,
Jeweller on a local and international level. and, most recently, BHP Billiton Diamonds, as well as strong negotiating, product and
Congratulations! for which he spent two years at the Antwerp customer skills. Gillies will start his new
office as CanadaMark’s Marketing Manager. position this November.
He currently serves as the Vice-President of
CIBJO’s Diamond Commission and sits on
the GIA Alumni Executive Council. “Jon’s
extensive background in the Canadian
jewellery industry, combined with his recent
international diamond experience, made him
the perfect fit for the new role as we get set to
expand our Canadian Maple Leaf diamond
program,” said John Minister, the President of
Corona Jewellery. Phillips will be based in the
Company’s head office in Toronto.

Lucy Holden Cameron Gillies

22 CJ NOVEMBER 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

022-024.CJ_WhosNews.indd 22 10/29/09 11:21:20 AM

For details, write #114 on Free Info Page, page 85

CJ_Nov09_Five_Star_Diamonds_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:50:26 PM


AGTA 2010 Board of Directors GIA Names Tearle as New CFO

Appointments The Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) has named David J. Tearle as Vice-President
welcomed three new directors to its 2010 and Chief Financial Officer. Tearle comes to
board. Peter Bazar (from Imperial-Deltah Inc.), the position with more than 12 years of public
Sushil Goyal (from Liberty Gems, Inc.) and accounting and 15 years in senior financial
Cynthia Renee Zava (from Cynthia Renee, Co.) management for multinational companies. He
have all been elected for three-year terms that has served in a variety of high-level financial
will take effect at the 2010 AGTA Membership positions with multinational corporations in
Meeting, held at GemFaire Tuscon on February the pharmaceutical industry since 1994. His
7, 2010. The nominating committee was specific areas of expertise include business
chaired by past president Barbara Lawrence and manufacturing operations, business
Pamela Love
(from Boston Gems & Findings) while Richard development, international reporting and
Love Redefines Jewellery with True Greenwood is the Committee Member for the financial control and planning. Tearle replaces
Blood and Jonze’s Latest Project 2010 nomination slate. Bob Buscher, who recently announced plans
Pamela Love is making a name for herself to leave GIA after 13 years to return to the for-
in the fashion world with her edgy, goth- Keys Launches Jewellery Line profit business arena.
inspired pieces. The 27-year-old designer has With her upcoming fourth album to hit
contributed her creations, which include claw shelves in December, singer Alicia Keys is
cuffs, bone rings and bird skull pendants, to continuing to keep herself busy with the
many big names in fashion, including Zac creation of AK Worldwide, which will handle
Posen, Yigal Arouel and costume designers all her non-musical and philanthropic
on HBO’s vampire sensation, True Blood. One works. And the first order of business for the
of her pieces includes the claw pendant that fledgling company is to launch a new jewellery
vampire Eric wears around his neck. Love is collection called “The Barber’s Daughters.”
also designing a line inspired by the new Spike What makes the line stand out from other
Jonze film Where The Wild Things Are for New celebrity ventures is that the collection will
York-based fashion brand Opening Ceremony. feature handcrafted pieces engraved which
The line includes claw necklaces, chokers, seek to inspire the wearer with engraved
cuffs and a variety of other pieces, all very messages of hope and wisdom. As of yet, there
animalistic and wild. has been no information released on price
points or retail availability.
Coin and Turlington Team up to Fight
Global Poverty Barcados Appointed Chair of CJA
Leading Italian jewellery designer Roberto The Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA)
Coin has signed on model and advocate Christy has appointed Alex Barcados as chairman of
Turlington for his upcoming 2009/2010 ad the Board of Directors for the upcoming year.
Jewellery photos courtesy of Opening Ceremony.

campaign for the second year in a row. While Barcados is President and co-owner of C.D.
Coin’s previous campaign benefited YouthAIDS, Barcados Co., a notable Canadian coloured
the pair will now support the CARE cause — a gemmstone company. For the past 15 years,
leading humanitarian organization fighting he has been a fellow of the Gemmological
global poverty. The campaign, photographed by Association of Great Britain and a fellow of
Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, the Canadian Gemmological Association.
will be featured in the October issues of He currently sits on the Board of Directors
major consumer publications such as Elle and of the 24 Karat Club and is a past member
Harper’s Bazaar, and will debut internationally of the Canadian Gemological Association Alex Barcados
as well. Board of Directors.

24 CJ NOVEMBER 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

022-024.CJ_WhosNews.indd 24 10/29/09 11:08:46 AM

For details, write #115 on Free Info Page, page 85

060.CJ Sanghavi Diamonds.indd 1 1 10/29/09 2:51:36 PM
6/16/09 10:24:18 AM
news | trends | events
Diamond Industry Reaches base for Israeli Diamond Industry activites in Working Group, originating from the 2008
Out to Panama South America, just as this country acts as a St. Petersburg forum. The IDB’s mission will
A delegation of leaders from the world free-trade zone for other products,” continued be to create and sustain strong consumer
diamond industry held a historic meeting Avidar. President Martinelli was noted demand for diamonds worldwide through
with the President of Panama, Ricardo as saying he welcomes collaboration with effective category marketing.
Martinelli, to discuss the need for Panama Israel, and urged that the government would
to pass legislation enabling diamond trade take the necessary legislative steps towards JCK Las Vegas Moving
and tax exemption within its borders. The bureaucracy-free diamond trade. to Mandalay Bay in 2011
meeting was attended by Israel Diamond As part of a reinvention of the industry’s
Institute Managing Director Eli Avidar; Postponement of International leading jewellery event in North America,
Israeli Ambasador to Panama Yoad Magen; Diamond Board JCK Las Vegas will be moving off the
the Chairman of the World Diamond Council Three members of the International Diamond strip to the Mandalay Bay hotel in 2011.
Eli Izhakoff; the President of the Diamond Board (IDB) announced in October the According to JCK, the changes are being
Dealers Club of New York Moshe Mosbacher; postponement of the start-up phase of enthusiastically endorsed by “major players”
NYDDC Managing Director Martin the board. BHP Billiton, De Beers and in the industry, including the American
Hochbaum; and President of the Panama Rio Tinto made the decision so ALROSA Gem Trade Association, Hong Kong Jewelry
Diamond Exchange Erez Akerman. Avidar has sufficient time to review its plans and Manufacturers Assocation, LUXURY, Swiss
said at the meeting that the Israeli diamond confirm its participation. This decision also Watch and Vicenzaoro Italian Pavilion,
industry is seeking a base — with a strict rule delays the appointment of an IDB CEO. The who were among the first to sign up for JCK
of law, stable government and well-established incorporation of the IDB as a UK company 2011 and support the move. Before the final
local Jewish community — from which it will proceed as planned. The formation of decision was made, extensive research was
can expand its activities to South America. the board was announced in July, after eight conducted among individual companies
“We believe that Panana can serve as an ideal months of deliberations by an industry and more than 80 of the largest exhibiting
companies, including organizations,
representing more than 500 domestic and
key international customers. Dave Bonaparte,
Group Vice President for JCK Events, says
“this has been a pure example of customer-
focused decision making. We will deliver
dynamic change to meet the needs of our
customers and create fresh new value without
sacrificing any fundamental element that has
made JCK Las Vegas so special for 18 years.”

Kibela Opens 200th

New Retail Dealer
Crystal centre piece on black
Calgary-based sterling silver jewellery
base. Valued at $2,125. company Kibela Inc. recently engaged its
200th retail dealer, Vandenberg’s Jewellers,
of Edmonton, Alberta. Silver continues to
escalate its position in higher-end jewellery,
and Brad Leith, Kibela’s CFO, commented,
Birks & Mayors Launches Birks Living “We see great pressure on silver to continue
Birks & Mayors will launch a new lifestyle and brand concept called “Birks Living” to escalate in the months ahead on the
exclusively at its West Hastings flagship location in Vancouver. Starting October 1, commodities market. This also affects both
the collection will feature chic contemporary and one-of-a-kind décor pieces, the cost to purchase our products but more
sourced from countries including Italy, Spain and France. The collection will have importantly the greater perceived value of
four product families — Iconic, Signature, Extravaganza and Opulence. silver by retail clients that was once only the
territory of gold and diamonds.”

26 CJ november 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

026-030.CJ_FTR_re copy.indd 26 10/29/09 11:13:00 AM

CGTA_S10Ad_CanJew 9/28/09 4:26 PM Page 1

When it comes to
products for Living and
Giving, each customer’s
taste and style are
as unique as their
fingerprints. Unlimited

& Giving
shapes, endless colours
and constantly changing
trends from designers
the world over make it
a challenge for retailers
to discover all the

wonderful new products
to help their customers
celebrate their individu-
ality and express their
personal sense of style.

Which is why the CGTA
Gift Show continues to
be Canada’s most impor-
tant retail trade buying
event for giftware and
lifestyle products! Only
the CGTA Gift Show gives
retailers a heads-up
preview of everything
new for the coming
season. Real product,
in all categories, which
retailers can browse,
Sunday, January 31
examine and buy, just
to Thursday,
as consumers will soon
February 4, 2010
be doing in their stores.
Until 7pm Monday & Tuesday

International Centre Be sure you stay ahead

Toronto Congress Centre of the latest trends!
Register and attend the
Owned and Operated by the
Spring 2010 CGTA Gift
Canadian Gift and Tableware Association
Show – your colleagues
1-800-611-6100 and competitors will all
www.cgta.org be there!

For details, write #116 on Free Info Page, page 85

CJ.Nov09_Matrix_Creative_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:53:06 PM

Signature Engraving Systems Introduces
Machining Centre for Jewellery Customers
Signature Engraving Systems has announced the introduction
of the Jewellery and Name Necklace Machining Centre. The
apparatus attaches to the Signature 8080 Plus and the 8080
Super, and allows users to create custom charms and name
necklaces, as well as 0.05-inch thick sterling silver in under
15 minutes. The machining centre, developed by Signature’s
engineering team, uses advanced technology to cleanly carve
individualized charms. The device works with Signature software
in the customer’s existing system, so adding the feature is simple
and fast, and is a great opportunity for jewellers to address the
market for custom-designed jewellery. Chris Parent, President and
CEO of Signature Engraving Systems says, “The new attachment
is designed to help jewellers capitalize on the increasingly popular
personalization market. After the item has been cut, jewellers
can add hand-tool accents, do a bit of polishing and deliver
one-of-a-kind pieces to their customers.” The machining centre
features include a removable micro filter, spring gauges for quick setting cutting depths and adjustment, a nose plate for consistent
engraving depth control, and software and circuit board upgrade to optimize speeds and feeds needed for delicate cutters.
Rousseau JUNE JULYrevised:Rousseau 4/21/09 1:15 PMSQ:Layout
MCD Pearls Page 1 1 2/25/09 10:31 AM Page 1

MCD Pearl Imports

A selection of pearl strands, loose pearls
and pearl jewellery.

catalogue available upon request

27 Queen St. E., Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6

T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368 2426
Email info@mcdpearls.com




For details, write #118 on Free Info Page, page 85

For details, write #117 on Free Info Page, page 85









TOLL FREE 1•800•661•4460

28 CJ november 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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IDI Presents Largest Ever Pavilion Canadian Line Mashu Mashu Army, died suddenly in Switzerland on
at Hong Kong September Show Makes its Mark with U.S. Buyers September 22. He was 60 years old. Maeder
The Israel Diamond Institute Group of According to Laura Goldstein, “mashu joined the Company in 1998, departing his
Companies (IDI) presented the largest mashu” means “Wow, that’s something!” post as Creative Director at Breitling. Maeder
ever Diamond Pavilion at the Hong Kong in Hebrew. The publicist turned jewellery contributed significantly to the development,
Jewellery and Watch Fair in September. designer is married to an Israeli, and when innovation and success of the Victorinox Swiss
It included 60 Israeli companies, and naming her line, was inspired by the catchy Army timepiece, which celebrated its 20th
an additional 20 companies exhibited phrase that she would often hear when anniversary in 2009. Global Timepiece CEO
throughout the show. The huge Israeli visiting her husband’s family in Israel. Her Alexander Bennouna says, “His passion for
interest in the fair was due in part to the creations have U.S. fashion mavens buzzing. the watches was highly contagious and very
importance the industry places on the Asian Goldstein, a Kelowna, Ontario-based enriching; our collaboration was truly based on
market. Hong Kong is Israel’s second largest designer, says she likes to add a modern twist professionalism and deep friendship.”
market for polished diamond exports, or surprise to her nature-inspired creations,
representing about 20% of the total. Of such as a fish with a pearl in its mouth. Diamonds International Launches
the IDI’s presence at the trade show, IDI Goldstein also draws inspiration from French Charity Site
Chairman Moti Ganz said, “We are pleased and Italian ’40s and ’50s haute couture. The world’s largest duty-free jeweller,
to present the strength of the Israeli diamond Diamonds International, has launched
industry at the Hong Kong September fair. Victorinox Swiss Army Creative DiamondsInternational.org, a charity site
We believe Asia is the growth market of the Director, Jean-Bernard Maeder, focused on community outreach, fundraising
future for Israeli diamonds and that’s why Passes Away at Age 60 and sponsorships for communities in which
Israeli companies are participating in Jean-Bernard Maeder, Creative Director of DI cutting, polishing and retail locations
record numbers.” Marketing and Product at Victorinox Swiss worldwide are located.

Pieces from the Boho Soho line.

Ernest Jones Launches Boho Soho Line for Winter

For details, write #118 on Free Info Page, page 85

For details, write #119 on Free Info Page, page 85

Diamond and watch specialist Ernest Jones has announced
the launch of its Boho Soho charm jewellery collection.
The new range is meant to be a complement to winter
fashions, combining modern designs and bohemian feel.
The collection consists of five capsule lines — Artisan
(heavy day-wear jewellery), Minarette (featuring glamourous
crystals); Volute (caged back design and elliptical shape);
Dilletante (features love hearts encased in a heavy disc);
and Mouchette (combines silver and seed shapes to give a
waterfall effect) — aimed at the 20-something professional

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m november 2009 CJ 29
imp 100x125.indd 1 12-10-2009 9:32:31

026-030.CJ_FTR_re1.indd 29 10/29/09 12:55:13 PM


AGS Awards CGA Title, Makes History

Erica Sanchez-Hawkins of Erica’s Fine Jewellery
has achieved the Certified Gemologist
stock index
Appraiser (CGA) title from the American Gem Last Quarter Market
Society (AGS). The CGA accreditation is the Company Name Stock Exchange Price Price % 52-Week 52-Week Revenue P/E Cap
Symbol 08/14/09 09/30/09 Change High Low ($Millions) Ratio ($Millions)
highest level of achievement in the jewellery
industry. Approximately 400 jewellers in North Precious Metals
America have earned this title, and only 20%
Agnico-Eagle Mines AEM TSX $61.510 $72.410 17.72% $77.320 $26.600 $162.0 97.89 10,840.00
are goldsmiths as well, Sanchez-Hawkins Alamos Gold AGI TSX $9.860 $9.420 -4.46% $11.300 $3.500 $43.9 18.89 962.00
being one of these out of 80. Sanchez-Hawkins Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. AU NYSE $38.020 $40.760 7.21% $45.640 $13.370 $814.0 46.11 10,883.00

makes history with this accreditation as the first Anvil Mining Ltd. AVM TSX $2.850 $2.800 -1.75% $4.850 $0.450 $8.8 N/A 279.00
Barrick Gold Corp. ABX TSX $37.290 $40.540 8.72% $49.870 $22.000 $2,124.0 46.13 34,258.00
African-American/Hispanic female to obtain Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN NYSE $26.540 $35.210 32.67% $35.350 $9.000 $198.1 25.41 8,605.00
the title. She was also elected a member of the Eastern Platinum ELR TSX $0.510 $0.580 13.73% $0.960 $0.185 $29.6 N/A 374.00
Eldorado Gold ELD TSX $12.240 $12.160 -0.65% $13.090 $3.440 $80.5 22.8 4,319.00
National Association of Jewellery Appraisers Equinox Minerals Ltd. EQN TSX $2.800 $3.460 23.57% $3.460 $0.760 $112.4 23.57 2,308.00
(NAJA) in August. First Quantum Minerals FM TSX $69.400 $70.000 0.86% $77.070 $12.750 $377.0 N/A 5,291.00
FNX Mining Company FNX TSX $9.370 $9.380 0.11% $11.360 $2.000 $65.3 N/A 788.00
Fortune Valley Resources FVX TSX-V $0.050 $0.080 60.00% $0.100 $0.005 N/A N/A 3.00
Sanghavi Diamonds Named Gammon Gold GAM TSX $6.820 $9.160 34.31% $10.230 $2.680 $50.9 87.9 1,086.00
Top Indian Importer of Polished Gold Fields GFI NYSE $12.470 $13.780 10.51% $15.000 $4.640 $902.2 51.88 9,459.00

Diamonds to U.S. Goldcorp Inc. G TSX $39.520 $42.980 8.76% $46.450 $17.770 $632.7 19.67 30,354.00
Iamgold Corp. IMG TSX $13.220 $15.130 14.45% $16.970 $2.930 $263.9 488 5,184.00
India’s Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion International Royalty IRC TSX $3.890 $4.320 11.05% $4.850 $1.300 $8.9 69.33 326.00
Council (GJEPC) has given Sanghavi Diamonds Ivanhoe Mines IVN TSX $9.710 $13.760 41.71% $13.950 $2.060 $37.8 N/A 4,934.00
Kinross Gold K TSX $21.480 $23.330 8.61% $25.220 $8.960 $592.8 N/A 15,592.00
the award for highest importer of cut and Lundin Mining LUN TSX $3.950 $3.610 -8.61% $4.180 $0.690 $233.6 N/A 1,918.00
polished diamonds into the U.S. for 2008- Newmont Mining NMC TSX $45.010 $47.000 4.42% $59.600 $27.140 $1,602.0 31.18 20,309.00

2009. The award is sponsored by the Ministry NovaGold Resources NG TSX $4.280 $5.500 28.50% $7.160 $0.475 $16.5 N/A 958.00
Pan American Silver PAA TSX $22.530 $24.580 9.10% $26.680 $11.120 $113.8 N/A 2,038.00
of Commerce and the government of India. Red Back Mining Inc. RBI TSX $10.160 $12.030 18.41% $13.300 $3.280 $82.1 29.24 2,557.00
Sanghavi Diamonds President Nitin Jobanputra Silver Standard Resources SSO TSX $20.100 $23.080 14.83% $27.690 $6.870 $5.7 N/A 1,461.00

says, “We at Sanghavi Diamonds have been Silver Wheaton SLW TSX $10.930 $13.590 24.34% $14.250 $3.070 $48.4 76.59 4,055.00
Teck Resources Ltd. TCK.B TSX $29.800 $29.500 -1.01% $31.060 $3.350 $2,168.0 21.07 13,756.00
persistent at providing the highest level of Yamana Gold Inc. YRI TSX $9.900 $11.520 16.36% $13.010 $4.290 $274.8 15.86 8,021.00
customer satisfaction through the hard work GemStones
and dedication of our team. The loyalty and ­Anglo American PLC AAUKY OTC $15.950 $15.880 -0.44% $17.700 $6.210 N/A 9.41 39,520.00
reliability of our customers has brought us to Azure Resources Corp. AZU TSX-V $0.100 $0.100 0.00% $0.140 $0.045 $0.5 0.61 5.00

levels we have not seen before.” BHP Billiton Ltd. BHP NYSE $65.060 $66.010 1.46% $69.460 $24.530 N/A 14.62 105,570.00
Diamcor Mining DMI TSX-V $0.310 $0.220 -29.03% $0.350 $0.130 N/A N/A 2.00
Diamond Fields Int’l. DFI TSX $0.055 $0.100 81.82% $0.250 $0.025 $0.4 N/A 4.00
Delcam Establishes Diamond North Resources DDN TSX-V $0.160 $0.165 3.13% $0.650 $0.100 N/A 38.99 14.00

California Office Dios Exploration DOS TSX-V $0.190 $0.165 -13.16% $0.250 $0.050 N/A N/A 7.00
Harry Winston Diamond HW TSX $6.180 $9.050 46.44% $14.240 $2.190 $107.6 N/A 658.00
Delcam has established an office in California Mountain Province Diamonds MPV TSX $1.710 $2.680 56.73% $3.490 $0.730 0 N/A 163.00
following its acquisition of the assets and Moydow Mines Int’l. Inc. MOY TSX $0.140 $0.170 21.43% $0.200 $0.050 0 N/A 9.00
New Nadina Expls Ltd. NNA TSX-V $0.090 $0.065 -27.78% $0.200 $0.045 N/A N/A 2.00
goodwill of its reseller, VIZION Technologies. Rio Tinto RTP NYSE $162.830 $170.290 4.58% $259.700 $59.200 N/A N/A 40,747.00
VIZION staff will become direct employees to Sanatana Diamonds Inc. STA TSX-V $0.075 $0.090 20.00% $0.290 $0.040 N/A N/A 6.00
ensure continuity of service to Delcam software Shear Minerals Ltd. SRM TSX-V $0.060 $0.080 33.33% $0.160 $0.035 N/A 9 7.00
Starfield Resources Inc. SRU TSX $0.170 $0.145 -14.71% $0.520 $0.070 $0.0 N/A 47.00
users in the state. Stornoway Diamond SWY TSX $0.115 $0.190 65.22% $0.275 $0.055 $0.0 N/A 45.00
True North Gems TGX TSX-V $0.120 $0.135 12.50% $0.215 $0.050 N/A N/A 9.00

Stuller Inc. Looks to Social Media Western Standard Metals WSM TSX-V $0.130 $0.370 184.62% $0.375 $0.050 N/A N/A N/A

Applications for Marketing Campaign Jewellers & Retailers

Stuller, Inc. recently announced its Red Box Birks & Mayors BMJ AMEX $0.470 $0.550 17.02% $1.500 $0.200 N/A N/A 6.00

Diamond giveaway via Facebook. Stuller Fossil Inc. FOSL Nasdaq $25.570 $28.450 11.26% $30.000 $11.000 $315.9 15.5 1,797.00
Sears Canada SCC TSX $20.050 $21.250 5.99% $24.480 $15.000 $1,250.0 10.15 2,272.00
made the announcement in conjunction with Signet Group SIG NYSE $22.620 $26.330 16.40% $28.440 $5.910 $710.8 N/A 2,602.00
the release of its iPhone application, with the Tiffany & Co. TIF NYSE $31.010 $38.530 24.25% $39.400 $16.700 $612.5 20.43 4,709.00
Wal-Mart WMT NYSE $51.880 $49.090 -5.38% $60.300 $46.250 $100,910.0 14.2 190,934.00
aim of driving bridal shoppers to their local, Zale Corporation ZLC NYSE $6.370 $7.150 12.24% $26.250 $0.890 N/A N/A 208.00
independent Red Box Diamond retailers.
They will also be promoting their diamond
Gold COMX $999.300
campaign with monthly advertisements on a Silver COMX $16.630
popular bridal planning website, and through a Platinum NYME $1,289.800

Facebook fan page. [CJ] Palladium COMX $298.550

*This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.

30 CJ november 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

026-030.CJ_FTR_re copy.indd 30 10/29/09 11:18:01 AM


High-End Fashion Jewellery & Loose Diamonds

Nova Diamonds Inc.
221 Victoria St. Lower Level
Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4
Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666
For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 85

CJ.Nov09_Mirage_Nova_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:54:42 PM


MPH Ventures to Acquire similar white gems: a large diamond of 168.00 outstanding Stingray shares at an exchange
Gold Properties carats and two other stones of 58.50 and 53.30 ratio of 0.25 Mercator shares per Stingray
MPH Ventures Corp. is set to acquire three carats. This is not the first extraordinary share. The offer represents a 52% premium
contiguous gold properties referred to as diamond found at the mine. In May 2008, the to Stingray’s closing price of $0.48 on
the Godfrey Gold property. Located 20km mine produced a sparkling 101.27ct diamond. Thursday. While Michael Surratt, the chief
west of Timmins, ON, and 9km northwest Previously owned by De Beers, Cullinan is executive of Mercator, will remain CEO of
of the Lakeshore Gold Timmins mine, the third richest diamond-producing mine in the combined company, Peter Mordaunt, the
the 700-acre acquisition is located in the South Africa. CEO of Stingray, will become chief operating
Godfrey and Bristol Townships. For this fall, officer of the combined company. The deal is
an exploration program consisting of line Mines Ministers Meeting Urged scheduled to close by the end of the year.
cutting, mechanical trenching and ground to Promote Sustainability
geophysics is planned, followed by a drilling The Mining Association of Canada Canadian Mines Sign
program. MPH Ventures Corp., a gold encouraged governments at the 66th annual Mongolian Agreement
and molybdenum exploration company, is Mines Ministers meeting to take action Canada-listed Ivanhoe Mines and Rio
focused on mineral development in Canada. in sustaining Canada’s mining industry. Tinto have signed a long-term investment
While some 32 mines in Canada were agreement with the Mongolian government
De Beers Cancels Shutdown suspended or closed, many were operating to build and operate Oyu Tolgoi, a copper/
A four-week shutdown is off the books for De below capacity in the first half of this gold mining complex in the country’s
Beers Canada. The industry giant is canceling year. In response, the association calls for south Gobi region. The deal to develop the
the planned four-week winter shutdown the government’s increased dedication to $3-billion mine, with one of the world’s
of its Snap Lake diamond mine, located in economic development in terms of initiatives biggest untapped copper and gold deposits,
Canada’s Northwest Territories. According such as increased open access to land and tax will increase the global supply of copper
to the company, the motivation behind the incentives to encourage increased investment. by 2%. Production is scheduled to start in
move is the improving conditions of the The association’s annual Facts and Figures 2013, at an average of 450,000 tonnes of
global diamond industry. “This is a good 2009 publication cites the significant copper per year and 330,000 ounces of gold
news decision in response to some positive contribution of the mining sector to Canada’s over 35 years. Six years in the making, the
trends we are seeing in the market place,” said GDP in 2008 ($40 billion) and the record- deal was ultimately made possible when the
Jim Gowans, the CEO of De Beers’ Canadian high $11.5-billion in taxes and royalties the Mongolian government lifted its decision to
unit. The decision follows a similar one made sector shelled out to all levels of the Canadian repeal its windfall profits tax in late August.
by nearby Diavik diamond mine, owned by government. The report ultimately illustrates
Harry Winston and Rio Tinto. the advantages of securing the long-term Wabush Mines to be Sold
stability of the industry. Subsidiaries of the world’s largest steel maker
Eldorado Buyout Approved and a United States Steel Corp. subsidiary
Eldorado Gold Corp’s $1.36-billion buyout Chidliak Exploration Finds are planning to sell their minority stake in a
of Australian-listed company Sino Mining New Diamonds Canadian iron ore mine to a Montreal-based
Ltd. has been approved by the Australian Canada-based Peregrine Diamonds Ltd. has company. ArcelorMittal Dofsco announced
government. Eldorado’s offer, announced made a new discovery of diamonds at the that it would sell its 28.6% interest in Wabush
in August of this year, is worth $6.73 Chidliak exploration property in Baffin Mines to Consolidated Thompson Iron Mines
(Australian) per share, based on the firm’s Island, Nunavut. Funded by BHP Billiton Ltd. for $34.28 million, citing that it was
last trade. Eldorado already owned 19.8% Ltd., the 2009 exploration recovered a 0.64ct “no longer a core part of the company’s
of Sino Gold before the offer was put on the off-white, translucent octahedroid in a 220.9 mining strategy.” U.S. Steel Canada Inc., on
table (due to its purchase of Gold Fields’ kg sample from the CH-7 kimberlite. The the other hand, sold its near 45% stake for
stake in July,) with the aim to double its gold sample also yielded 664 diamonds larger an undisclosed amount of money. Wabush
production in China. than the 0.075mm sieve size, and 11 larger Mines owns and operates iron ore mining
than the 0.600mm, with CH-4 and CH-8 pelliet facilities in Newfoundland and
Petra Diamonds Discovers Rare Find bearing 15 and 17 diamonds larger than Labrador, Quebec, representing 31 million
Petra Diamonds has discovered a 507.55ct 0.600mm sieve size. tonnes of iron ore reserve and 1.2 million
white diamond, one of the largest high- tonnes of iron ore produced for the company
quality rough diamonds ever found, at Mercartor Buys Stingray last year. Wabush Mines continues to operate
South Africa’s Cullinan mine. An initial Mercartor Minerals Ltd. will buy out Stingray ArcelorMittal Mines Canada, formerly
examination has revealed that the diamond Copper Inc. in a $44.1-million stock deal known as Quebec Cartier Mining. The sale is
is just over 100 grams (or 3.5 ounces) with to expand its operations and capitalize still subject to right of first refusal by Wabush
exceptional colour and clarity. Found on Stingray’s El Pilar project in Sonora, Mines third owner Cliffs Natural Resources
alongside it were three other impressive and Mexico. Mercator will buy all issued and Inc. and regulatory approvals. [CJ]

32 CJ november 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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Now What?
The future of retailing is changing. Are new graduates ready?
By Robin G ambhir

ow might be the best time to be a jewellery student. The industry is in the midst of a transition
that has shifted, and in some cases destroyed, longstanding traditions and structures within the
industry. These changes, brought about by the rise of the Internet as an affective force and hastened
by the sudden economic downturn, mark a period of what economists call “creative destruction:” a period
of transformation that follows radical innovation. Today’s student will enter an industry that is radically
different in the areas of retail, manufacturing, distribution and marketing than it was even five years ago.

Retail Reason
Traditionally, retailers were the gatekeepers to the market. If you wanted to sell your product, a retailer had to
agree to put it in his showcase. The supply chain had a push model, where manufacturers made a product and
a road representative placed that product in a retailer’s store. Today, the model is shifting towards a pull model
where customers come into a store seeking specific products or brands that they have already seen advertised.

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m november 2009 CJ 33

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“In the past, retailers made a lot of their margin on diamond sales, which
yielded at least keystone. These days, margins have shrunk considerably
to the point where in a city like Toronto, for example, a carat size
diamond might be sold for as little as $500 over cost.”

A long time ago (before the advent of shopping malls), jewellers had over what the same diamond ring might have sold for ten years ago. One
stand-alone stores that weren’t on every corner. The proprietors in these exception to this troubling trend is Canadian diamonds. As they are
stores either produced what they sold or knew how to produce what they not widely available on sites like Blue Nile, Canadian diamonds are not
were reselling. That hasn’t been the case in chain stores for some time. under the same price pressure as other diamonds. Canadian diamonds
These days, to be successful, you need to pay your staff proper wages can command, we are told, between five percent and ten percent more
and you have to hire people who know the product; the old adage that than other diamonds. And independent jewellers across Canada have
if you pay peanuts, you get monkeys holds. It used to be that a student access to their own diamond search through OpenBlue Networks, whose
would graduate and go to work for minimum wage in a chain store for inventory of Canadian diamonds is almost ten times what Blue Nile has
experience. These days, they can make the jewellery they were trained to available and is perhaps the largest collection on the web. That inventory
make in school and sell it themselves on places like etsy.com. is a combination of the major dealers in Canadian diamonds.

Branding 101 Earlier this year, one of the diamond suppliers on our system approached
A startling number of retailers credited their very survival to the sales us because he felt his diamonds might appear expensive online when
of readily available, affordably-priced wholesale brands. With their retailers were marking them up at keystone. We knew that retailers
margins and markets protected, and a steady stream of consumers needed guidance when it came to the markup of diamonds online.
coming through the door prompted by big-brand marketing machines Working with two major Canadian diamond suppliers, we built supplier
from those brands, it’s no wonder that retailers are becoming fixated on price guides, an opt-in program wherein the retailers markup would be
product with a strong marketing image. determined by the supplier. What that meant was that retailers who opt
in to this program would see their keystone markup start declining after
In Canada, branding has been hit and miss, and is still largely the province the $1,000 cost for the stone threshold was passed, and slide to about 35%
of Canadian diamonds. In fact, the story of branded Canadian diamonds on stones over $5,000 at cost.
indicates a lack of sophistication, and ultimately a lack of understanding
amongst suppliers, that a brand is more than just a name and logo. A brand has These price guides are the start of what could result in list prices for
to have values, a value proposition, a message and an appeal for consumers. diamonds which, my writer’s opinion, would be a very good thing for
Canadian diamonds. The plethora of brands, which was really just a
A Diamond Deal means of segmenting the market, hasn’t properly addressed the issue
In the past, retailers made a lot of their margin on diamond sales, which of preserving margin. And in this environment, the only real brand
yielded at least keystone. These days, margins have shrunk considerably is Canada as the country of origin. The rest is just packaging. If the
to the point where in a city like Toronto, for example, a carat size diamond Canadian diamond industry worked together to protect margins which,
might be sold for as little as $500 over cost. Instead, retailers have been from a retail perspective, is a huge attraction in branded goods, it would
charging more for the mount, but there is still a considerable shortfall lead to a healthier market for all.

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INspIr a

Manufacturing Marvel
As CAD and rapid prototyping becomes less expensive and more mainstream, the number
of retailers manufacturing their own products will grow. Domestic manufacturers will
need to either establish their own consumer brands based on more than just a logo
(think design and materials) or they will need to sell based on what they can produce
better, cheaper or deliver faster than their foreign competitors.

Marketing Mavericks
While the cost of getting a message out there has become almost free with online
marketing, some people in the industry are grappling with their message, or if they even
have one at all. That’s something new. Brands weren’t much of a factor in retail sales (the
retailer was the brand) and everything was kind of generic. So, to the extent that De everlasting
Beers marketed diamonds as an aspirational purchase, that was all the messaging the
industry needed.

Online marketing, with an effective website as a minimum, is crucial to success. The

trend is clear: consumers are checking out retailers on the web before they visit their
stores. In this kind of environment, having a message is what will set retailers apart.
What’s a message? It’s the answer to the question, “Why should I buy from you?” and the
answer must always centre around exclusivity of some kind. That could be because you
are a dealer for a particular brand, you have a goldsmith on the premises, or you offer
value-adds such as warranties, insurance and other services with purchases.

Distribution Deals
Our business is based on relationships, and travellers who attend trade shows and go
from store to store carrying lines form many of those relationships. It is, sadly, a dying
art, as retiring travellers are not being replaced by new, younger entries to the field.
Since family firms dominate our business, the children of the founders sometimes
replace the independent travellers who retire. But with the business of travelling with
live goods becoming increasingly dangerous, independent travellers are leaving the
road and fewer founders are willing to put their children at risk. This, combined with
increasing insurance premiums and shrinking margins, has endangered this approach
to distribution. If good retailers are key to the industry’s success, travellers are not far let your sales message
behind in this equation. To fill the void, companies are using trade shows (which are held sustain
in a secure environment) and travellers are carrying laptops, CDs and brass and glass
samples instead of live-delivery goods. So as we move through these changes, travelling Brand your store(s)
sales people may eventually become a thing of the past in our industry as it has in some
other industries. Free to consumer
and free to you
What Does the Future Hold?
All of these changes will make us better. They will make us better marketers, more
efficient manufacturers and great retailers; what we lose in some areas we will gain in
others. And, we are not alone: many industries are facing the same disruptions to the
established order. So someone entering the industry in the next few years will encounter
fewer barriers to entry along with higher standards for retail, marketing, branding and
production. And that will only serve the industry well in the future. [CJ]

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Through the
looking glass
Appraisals: the good, the bad and the ugly.
B y Duncan Parker

ike anything in life, bad experiences stand out more boldly than Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) has published the Jewellery Appraisal
the good. When any of us makes an error, it might be a good Guidelines that set out the minimum acceptable standards for the
thing to lose a little sleep over it, because when mistakes don’t preparation of appraisals. The Guidelines are available at the JVC website,
bother us, we cease to care about them, and we are therefore more likely and are now the standard accepted by the insurance industry.
to make them. The good craftsman is proud to display his work.
The Jewellery Appraisal Guidelines establish parameters for description and
Appraisers should work from the point of view that the appraisal is a detail, and itemize what is necessary for a complete appraisal. These guidelines
legal document, and might need to be defended in court, and for that were prepared over many years by JVC, in collaboration with the jewellery
reason, it had better be thorough and complete. At Harold Weinstein, trade, the insurance industry and departments of the federal government.
we, as appraisers, often work as expert witnesses, and in these cases,
our credentials, abilities and, perhaps most importantly, our documents Writing a fully fleshed-out appraisal requires details, grading and
come under close scrutiny. The appraisals are being read and interpreted identification of gems, details of metal, construction methods and
by lawyers who, on the one side, are intent on proving us right, and on pertinent brands if any, plus many other features.
the other, intent on proving us wrong.
If your appraisal includes grading of gems, any trade-specific terminology
Providing detail is important. Sometimes appraisals don’t include must be explained and understandable to the jewellery owner. Saying a
measurements of gems because estimating weight based on visual diamond is “VS-1, G, princess cut, 1.00ct, and measuring 5.60 x 5.60 x
appearance is quicker, but this makes it more difficult to prove a gem’s 3.92mm” could be equivalent to saying the diamond is a “herbozzle with
identity in court. Estimated weights are potentially less accurate if the a clathyfield pong” to an uneducated consumer. Your appraisal needs to
measurements were not taken. Even face-up dimensions are not reliable. have explanatory notes for any specialized terminology.
We see round diamonds that are 5.90mm diameter, but are 1.00ct in
weight — not 0.77ct, which might be expected in a well-proportioned We see old appraisals that have grading for diamonds and gems that are
diamond of that diameter. unique to the appraiser, and this causes headaches for updates on lost
items. What exactly is a “4-16-FB” 1.00ct round diamond? What on earth
It really is important to be complete and accurate in an appraisal. The is a “Jacinth,” and is that “smoky topaz” really topaz at all? It is necessary
problem is balancing the best work with profitability. Good work takes to use the correct names for gems. Standardized diamond grading
time, and the more time you spend writing each appraisal, the fewer terminology is simpler because it is used by almost everyone. Simple and
appraisals you will write, and the less money you make. This is why we clear language is essential.
see appraisals that say:
Older appraisals often have simple but vague terminology: “One
“One 3.2g 14k yellow gold ring containing numerous diamonds. 14k yellow gold lady’s ring with a 1.00ct fine quality diamond”
Replacement value: $1,200.” is often as descriptive as we see in appraisals from the 1940s to 1970s.

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How many gemologists have incorrectly identified
in appraisals? This is a common problem,
partly because an appraisal is so inexpensive that
proper and thorough work can make the appraisal

The appraisal really needs to be more thorough. What is fine quality, anyway? At a recent conference, a panel discussion focused on appraisals, and
Maybe it depends upon where it was sold. It doesn’t help to be vague. the values placed upon them. One panelist was put on the spot because
appraisals from his company reflect prices that are far higher than have ever
Accuracy is important. How many times have appraisers made been charged by any retailer. His explanation was that he was working in a
assumptions about gems? Just because it looks like an emerald doesn’t “range of markets,” but he couldn’t explain the precise extent of that range.
mean it is an emerald. When I am teaching, I have an exercise for students
using 10 stones that all look similar; yellowish green apatite, tourmaline, We are seeing lots of items purchased through Internet “webtailers” (to
peridot, zircon, demantoid garnet, Brazilianite and so on, just to remind coin a phrase), which have sold for tiny margins. If I appraise these for
students that visual identification is only a start. You really do have to the price that might be charged by a main-street retailer, my value will be
actually test the gems. We can all make mistakes, but with care they can absurd compared to the price paid. Conversely, if I appraise something
be avoided as much as possible. Visual identification is a great hazard, purchased in a main-street retailer for the amount that might be paid on
and can lead to costly mistakes. We often see synthetic sapphires or rubies the web, my value would generate some questions. This is a source of much
identified as natural, and vice-versa. Such mistakes are based on hasty discussion in the appraising world now. We should appraise to the market
work. If the owner acted on the information in such an appraisal and of the particular client.
sold the item based on that, it could be disastrously costly when the error
comes to light. We often appraise items that were purchased in Internet-based auctions.
Usually the price paid was either insanely low or way too high because the
How many gemologists have incorrectly identified gems in appraisals? thing is synthetic or imitation and virtually worthless. Internet auctions
This is a common problem, partly because an appraisal is so inexpensive are not a good source of cost pricing for all things. On the other hand,
that proper and thorough work can make the appraisal cost-ineffective. It conventional auctions (that are often simultaneously web based) are an
is quick and easy to incorrectly identify gems, fail to test metals or avoid important source of pricing, if you generally use at least three results for
describing an item of jewellery. It is even possible to write appraisals accuracy. The reason for this is that Dupuis, Sotheby’s or Christie’s, for
without even seeing the items of jewellery. There are appraisals written on instance, have professionals who identify and describe gems and jewellery
standard models of jewellery for which a sample was seen, and the centre accurately, and some dude selling things on the “web” hasn’t, or chooses
diamond graded by the appraiser, but the item described in the appraisal not to disclose what he knows.
was not fully evaluated by the appraiser. These practices might make the
appraisal process more cost effective, but they are in contravention of the While mistakes can happen, they can be largely avoided by being attentive
Jewellery Appraisal Guidelines. and thorough. Appraisers have certain resources to work with, and can
honestly arrive at values that are high or low, but we should do our best to
If an item takes a long time to appraise, requires research or other extra be as fair and accurate as possible. It is inexcusable to have a major error in
work, has many different gems, has hundreds or thousands of gems or an appraisal, and it is simply immoral to write innacurate, incomplete and
needs advanced testing, it is reasonable to charge extra for the work. shoddy appraisals in order to save time and make more profit. [CJ]

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For details, write #121 on Free Info Page, page 85

CJ_Nov09_Vianna_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:56:42 PM

From left to right: Lisette Couture,
Danielle Couture, Élie Couture,
Francine Couture, Stéphane Lavoie,
Jeannine Couture and Guy Couture.

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Giffard says major changes are fluttering through the jewellery industry.

téphane Lavoie of Bijoutierie Giffard in Quebec City believes radical changes are
taking place in the jewellery business. “The high price of gold combined with the state of
this economy will force the industry to create smaller, lighter jewellery,” he says. “This will
inevitably limit or restrict to some extent the gold content in jewellery of non-branded products, and
has led manufacturers to use other, cheaper materials such as silver, palladium and titanium. That
implies an intial investment in terms of money and time.”

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Surprisingly, Lavoie believes this will ultimately be a positive development. Giffard when they need jewellery,” he says. “Now we’re doing ear piercing
“A little while back, many retailers did not seem too concerned about for girls whose mothers came in for ear piercing when they were girls.” The
offering more affordable products. Now, the majority have changed their Lavoie-Couture family know most of the customers by name — in fact, the
minds because of the economic situation,” says Lavoie. “I don’t want to say customers usually know each other, which makes the store something of a
that the difficult economic situation is a good thing, but rather that it is neighbourhood drop-in centre.
forcing us to reevaluate our opportunities. It is also important to note that
attractive lower price-point products bring new customers into the stores Giffard’s second location, opened in 1978, is located at Promenades Mall
and open the way to selling some higher price-point products.” in Beauport, which is five minutes from the main store. “But it is in a
totally new section of town where there are a lot of young families and new
It Takes Two housing developments,” says Lavoie. The demographic mix between the
Lavoie’s family owns and operates two jewellery stores in Quebec City. The two stores is typical of that in most cities, in the sense that the average age
original store, opened in 1944, is located in the Chemin Royal district of the of the customer at the main store is 50 and, in the suburban mall location,
city, ten minutes from downtown. It remains the company’s headquarters. more like 35. “It’s a great mall,” says Lavoie. “We have a lot more traffic. We
After a new law was passed in Quebec a couple of years ago, all small have more modern and young brands in the mall [Guess Watches, Harley
cities in the area were merged to become Quebec City. The original store Davidson watch collection], but we offer the same repair and custom
is in “a more ancestral part of town,” says Lavoie. “There is not a lot of design service.” In terms of customers’ average income, Lavoie says it’s
development.” He adds, “We have a lot of long-time customers in that part a very wide range: for example, $30,000 to 250,000 and higher for the
of the city, but people come from other parts of the city to our store, and main store, and $20,000 to $80,000 for the mall store. “So even though the
have for a long time because of our custom jeweller, Guy Couture. He can do two locations are very close to each other, the customers are so different,”
anything you want, using gold and stones. He has created a lot of exclusive stresses Lavoie. “Also it’s more convenient for transporting the repairs and
pieces, including gemstones with special cuts, that are really pieces of art.” special orders to head office daily. We had another store in a surrounding
Couture’s followers now include the second generation of families who city at one point, but after one of our family members had a big accident,
have been customers. “Even if they have moved away, they come back to we decided to concentrate on our two main locations.”

The BFly Girls Collection for ages 5 and older has

been a huge hit, especially the BFly watches and
silver earrings with the signature butterfly gem cut.

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All-in-One Approach Over the years, the structure fell into place, and today, each family member
Bijouterie Giffard practices what it preaches. The stores are rigorously covers a specific territory: Danielle handles watch repair and sales, while his
middle-market, allowing Giffard to cater to a broad market, carrying aunt Francine does accounting, and Lisette manages the Bijouterie Giffard
brands such as Bulova, Wittnauer and J.S.N Diamond Jewellery. The store at Promenades Beauport. Guy Couture is a trained lapidary who is
company manufactures at least 40% of its jewellery inventory, including the also in charge of production, custom design and, of course, serves as the
formulation of its own gold alloys (“secret recipes,” according to Lavoie), resident master gem cutter. As for Stéphane, who incidentally has a PhD in
and that does not always involve high-karat gold. Aside from that, the store’s physical chemistry, “I still enjoy doing sales in our family stores during the
philosophy is generally not to crowd the showcase with an abundance of Christmas season. It gives me a chance to speak directly to our customers
lines. “We try to stay away from jewellery that gets lost in the showcase,” and get their feedback, which I thoroughly enjoy.” Even Stéphane’s
says Lavoie. “When you mix innovative product, for example, such as our grandmother, Jeannine Couture, helps out part-time in both stores. “She
in-house brand, with more classical pieces, you lose the impact. This is loves chatting with the clients,” he says, with customer service being a key
true for all branded products. They should have exclusive displays because part of the store environment.
marketing recognition is crucial.”
Giffard currently employees 11 sales staff, including family members, whose
The stores are owned by his uncle, Guy Couture, his mother, Danielle main function might be equated with that of grandmother Couture’s. “They
Lavoie, and two aunts, Francine and Lisette Couture. One of the strengths need good product knowledge, including gemmology,” says Lavoie. “But
of having a family business, says Lavoie, is that “we work for a common mostly, they need to be good listeners and chat with the customers.”
goal, so we seldom count the hours we put in. We’re always there for each
other and we all have a passion for the trade we were brought up in.” As Small-Town Future
long as everyone respects the line between family and family business, it “Small-town retail jewellers face special challenges. We need to develop
works, he says, although he admits it was “initially a little hard to structure a special relationship with the customers,” says Lavoie. “We know a
the company because everybody has their own ideas and experience. But lot of our good customers by name. We like talking with people and
we came to understand the importance of each other’s strengths and who understanding their reality. In this world of overconsumption, we
would fit best into each role.” believe that there is the need to go back to the important things.

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We help the customer make the right purchase (or repair) even if the
Innovative In-House Branding right choice is less profitable for us.” The team believes in honesty and his
One of the most interesting parts of Bijouterie Giffard’s operation is their in- customers know it. That is why he believes they keep coming back again.
house Bfly brand that is created and manufactured by a sister company “I’m sure we are similar to a lot of nice smaller jewellery stores in Canada.
founded by Stéphane Lavoie, Guy Couture and Couture’s son Elie. The basis The traffic is less in smaller towns, but we are not only selling jewels and
of the line is the Butterfly cut, which was invented by Guy over a two-year watches. We do a lot of repair, and this helps during the slower periods.”
period of experimentation, from 1998 to 2000. The result was the Butterfly
Cut, a 39-facet cut with an arrangement of facets and a shape that combine He also points out the freedom of flexible hours. “One advantage is that we
to resemble a butterfly — a cut that was later adapted to diamonds. “Guy can close one day if we want, or we can shorten the opening hours in the
brought us on board after a couple of years on his own, trying to start a summer. One of the main challenges in having a street location is that we
company around the cut,” says Lavoie. “He couldn’t do everything himself need to continually advertise that we are still there. People are buying more
— sales, marketing, strategy — so we teamed up and helped him to create and more in the malls. When we have too many customers in our mall
the collection.” The rest, as they say, is history. The brand began as a ladies’ store, we sometimes mention that they can take their time at our other
collection, sold only as a store brand, with butterfly-cut natural gemstones store to see other collections, with more expensive jewels.”
such as amethyst, blue topaz, garnet, citrine, tourmaline, tanzanite and
butterfly diamonds. But it gradually metamorphosed into something else. Despite his belief that jewellers will become more accommodating with
“Each year, we were stupefied to see how customers came back to complete the products they carry and the varying price of metals affecting business,
their Butterfly Gem collections, or choose them as a gift for family members,” there’s also the pressing thought of the state of the jewellery industry in
says Lavoie. “At that time, we only had collections for women, and it was general on Lavoie’s mind. “The major challenge facing the jewellery
the pride of our retail store, but we knew that the potential was much more industry is the competition from other luxury segments, such as clothing
important. We rapidly found that the best way to start another aspect to the and electronics,” he explains. “There is not enough advertising from the
business was in the kids market.” It was an immediate success, and Lavoie jewellery industry to compete with the other fields. We need to promote
believes that is because of the symbolism. “The butterfly is a highly symbolic more Canadian products overall and in relation to that, we need to keep a
creature with universal appeal,” says Stéphane. “Butterflies represent birth, certain level of quality in our jewellery.”
change and transformation.” The Bfly jewellery collection focuses on what
Lavoie describes as kids’ and girls’ jewellery. “The reason why we chose Although the store does radio advertising and sends local flyers, they do
the young girls’ category is because of the popularity of the butterflies for not usually advertise discounts. “Our philosophy is to sell at a low price
that age group.” Even if the cut is suitable for women’s jewellery, we feel already, so we don’t offer big discounts. We are the kind of store that if you
that the butterfly’s symbolism of life has a stronger meaning as it applies to see a product elsewhere at 50-to-70% off, you have good chance to find it
babies and young girls, particularly in birthstone collections. What little girl at an even lower price (our full price) in our store,” says Lavoie.
wouldn’t want a butterfly?” The Butterfly cut, which hit the market just at the
beginning of the era of the custom, specialized cut, has received widespread The boutique also occasionally has in-store events. For example, when
recognition, and Couture is widely recognized as a notable lapidary for his Guy created his first high-end collection with natural gemstones in the
developments. In 2001, he was asked to cut a diamond using the Butterfly Butterfly Cut, “we invited all our best customers to discover the collection
cut from a 26.49-carat rough diamond found in a core sample at the Matane in a private evening event with a nice banquet,” says Lavoie. Like many
diamond site in Northern Quebec. jewellery retail operations today, Giffard prefers to manufacture as much
of its own inventory as possible, and emphasizes the importance of store
brands. “Of course, we are very proud of our in-house collections,” says
Lavoie, but he also points out, “we do keep other standard kids’ collections,
and we sell a lot of those pieces too. We believe in stocking a good variety
and letting the customer choose. We need to always find new products
to show to our customers, and trade shows show us these new styles.
We need to rethink or refresh our buying experience to match the new
generations.” Lavoie also gives much thought to this new generation, who
will no doubt look for other buying avenues and strategies, small town or
not. “There is the Internet trend rising. The benefit of buying in a jewellery
store as opposed to online is the good service and help. But we believe that
the Internet sales will be more problematic in the following years for the
retailers if they don’t offer products online.”

With a hometown legacy that’s strong and proud and a successful in-house
brand making waves, there’s no doubt Giffard and its style of retailing will
stand the test of time for generations to come. [CJ]

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The Original
Suddenly, it’s a new pearl world again.
By C arol Besler

Multi-colour baroque South Sea pearl

and freshwater pearl necklace, in
18k yellow gold and yellow and pink
sapphires totaling 5.07 carats.

he pearl has been through a major transition over the past decade. Until about 20 years ago, Japan was the undisputed ruler of the pearl
Once considered a white gem like diamonds, the cultured pearl is world. It was the Japanese akoya pearl cultivators who set the international
now being positioned by many dealers as a coloured stone, with standard of pearl beauty. It dictated that pearls should be round, smooth,
almost as many hues as sapphire or tourmaline. glossy and, above all, white. There were exceptions to the rule — golden
pearls from Burma in the 1950s and ’60s, then black pearls from French
Mauve, brown or orange pearls from China now seem more common than Polynesia in the 1970s. But these were mainly limited-edition pearls sold in
classic white akoya pearls from Japan. In fact, plenty of white pearls now small, selective markets. The vast majority of pearls remained mainly white.
come from China too, and they’re grown in freshwater lakes, not saltwater
bays, using mussels rather than oysters. At some point, however, quantity took precedence over quality among
some of Japan’s producers, who overcrowded the waters with nucleated
This change in pearl-growing mollusk and locale has meant profound oysters and implemented shortened growing times. By the late 1980s,
differences in the variety of pearls available on the market. Some of these Japan was producing tons of thin-nacre pearls that could not be expected
differences are good, and some not so good. On the one hand, there is to last as long as the pearls it had produced in the preceding decades.
greater choice, more quality levels — and more accepted quality levels — Worse, environmental mismanagement began to pollute the pristine
and, above all, prices in the pearl market are lower than ever before. waters needed for farming.

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And so the stage was set for the rapid emergence of new pearl-producing
powers, most notably China, which has transformed aesthetic standards A PEARL PRIMER
for this gem. Chinese farmers usually get two production cycles out of
their pearl-growing mussels. During the first cycle, lasting around two Most CJ readers already know the basics of pearl type and
years, the emphasis is on round pearls. If harvested pearls are put back quality, but it never hurts to have a short reminder. Use it as
in the water for another two-year cycle, empty pearl sacs start generating crib notes on the store floor when customers come in asking
second-growth free-form pearls of their own accord. Called “petal pearls” for information.
because of their flower-petal shapes, these pearls have found popularity
with consumers looking for more individualistic pearls. So have black Cultured pearls are cultivated by inserting a nucleus into
and white spontaneous-growth saltwater equivalents called “keshi” from a mollusk living in either freshwater or saltwater.
Tahiti, Indonesia and Australia. Freshwater pearls are any pearls from freshwater mollusks.
Akoya pearls are cultured saltwater pearls from the akoya oyster.
The vast majority — about 95% — of pearls produced today come from Black Tahitian pearls are large, dark pearls grown in
the fresh waters of China, mainly because production has spiraled out of French Polynesia.
control. In 2007, China harvested an estimated 1,500 metric tons of pearls, South Sea pearls are large pearls cultivated in the warm South
and depending on who you talk to, anywhere between 25% and 50% were Sea between northern Australia and southern China.
useable in jewellery. If converted into strands, that would equal between Nacre (also known as mother-of-pearl) is the compound
about 13-million and 26-million of them. This explains why Chinese pearl- secreted by the oyster that forms the pearl. Cultured freshwater
strand prices are so low. According to pearl dealer Bert Frankian of Louis pearls are solid nacre. Cultured saltwater pearls have a nucleus
Frankian Jewellers in Toronto, the harvested-to-useable ratio is closer to and then many layers of nacre, the number and thickness
25%, at the low end of the range. “The top quality is not as available as of which influence the quality of the pearl. Solid nacre is not
everyone thinks,” says Frankian. “You can get the kind of freshwater pearls necessarily better; freshwater pearls are still inexpensive despite
that are white, with top lustre and round shape — pearls that roll on a being solid nacre since they are easy to cultivate and often
tabletop without wobbling — but they’re as rare as the top akoyas.” baroque instead of round.
Luster is the soft, satiny sheen of a pearl, traditionally a major
factor in determining its worth.
Colour Body colour refers to the main colour (white, pink,
black, etc.), while overtone refers to washes of colour that
augment the body colour (ie: gold or rose overtones). Colour is
a factor in matching for strands, although mixed-colour strands
Strand of multi-coloured pastel are becoming very popular, as are mixed-species (combining
freshwater pearls in various shapes, fresh and saltwater pearls).
from Imperial Deltah, New York. Orient Orient, or iridescence, is influenced by the layering
and thickness of nacre; a large number of very thin layers will
produce the nicest pearls.
Surface Traditionally, the more blemish-free the pearl, the more
valuable it is. Small blemishes, such as a spots or bubbles, are
not as serious as structural faults like chips or cracks. Today,
naturally grooved, or “circle,” pearls (Tahitian black pearls, for
example) are also acceptable and look great.
Shape Round or near-round pearls are the most desirable
according to tradition, but some people feel that off-round
or irregular shapes (baroque) are just as beautiful. Ask your
supplier about “petal pearls” and “keshi” (spontaneous-growth
pearls with free-form shapes).
Size Pearl value rises exponentially with size. All other factors
being equal, a very large pearl will cost far more than a small pearl.

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“The main advantage of freshwater pearls,

everyone agrees, is price.”

These chocolate, golden, white

and peach/pink coloured strands
demonstrates the wide variety of
colours available in freshwater pearls.
From Imperial Deltah, New York.

An assortment of freshwater pearls, fresh from the water, courtesy of Honora, New York.

Pearl Advertisers in this issue

J.S.N. Jewellery
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but if they are white, mauve or peach, the colour is usually natural. But
“colour is a matter of taste,” says Frankian. “Some of these new colours,
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looking for fine jewellery still prefer white.”
MCD Pearls
t: 416.368.2690
The main advantage of freshwater pearls, everyone agrees, is price.
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Chinese freshwaters can be immensely affordable. But Frankian argues
“there is no margin. It’s too competitive. It’s like a game of limbo — Pandora Jewellery
how low can you go? And you can’t win, because someone can always t: 410.309.0200
go lower.” He adds, “there is huge overproduction. Everyone who has a w: www.pandora-jewelry.com
swamp can grow pearls, and the tendency is to overstock the waters, so
there isn’t enough plankton to feed them all.” t: 416.441.1010
w: www.siffari.com
Still, the emergence of China as the world’s leading pearl producer
has brought unprecedented pearl diversity, to the extent that the pearl Stuller
t: 337.262.7700
as a gem species seems to have been reinvented. Top quality pearls,
w: www.stuller.com
however, remain rare and at the end of the day, are still the most
sought-after. [CJ]

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of the Pack
Celebrating Canadian jewellery with the Excellence
In Design 2009 competition at JCK Toronto.
By Norma M eneguzzi S pall

he winners of the 2009 Excellence in Design Awards, Canada’s The designs were judged on the following criteria: originality, creativity,
only jewellery design competition, were announced on beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship, with further
September 14th at a reception hosted by Canadian Jeweller consideration given to marketability. A highlight of the Toronto jewellery
magazine at JCK Toronto. For the over 100 guests, it was a chance trade show, the awards reception was attended by jewellery designers
to honour some of Canada’s most talented fine jewellery designers. Varouj Tabakian, Jewellery by Varouj; Michael daCosta, Fortunes Fine
For the finalists in the competition, it was an opportunity to gain Jewellery and Herman Hess, Foresite Fine Jewellery, all of Toronto, as
recognition for their creativity and craftsmanship. well as Durga Chokhani of London and Noam Hakak of Montreal. Also
attending were judges Martha Glenny, Peter Stein, and Mayur Davé
Excellence in Design attracted over 60 entries in five categories from jewellery along with jewellery industry notables such as Adom Knadjian, Backes
designers across the country. Three finalists in each category — Diamonds, and Strauss Ltd.; Peter Myerson, Myerson’s Ltd.; Ken Mulhall, Canadian
Canadian Diamonds, Pearls, Platinum and Coloured Gemstones — were Jewellers Association and Alex Barcados, C.D. Barcados Co. Ltd.
chosen by a prestigious panel of judges that included: John Thompson,
Director of Sales and Operation, Birks and Mayors, Toronto; Martha Glenny, The winners in each category were announced by Norma Meneguzzi
Jewellery Design Professor, George Brown College; Mayur Davé, President, Spall, coordinator of the Excellence in Design Competition, with Olivier
Mayur Davé Gems and Designs; Peter Stein, President, MCD Pearl Imports Felicio, Publisher of Canadian Jeweller, presenting the awards. Here’s a
and Norbert Brinkhaus, Proprietor, Brinkhaus Jewellers. The judges then look at the 2009 Excellence in Design Award winners and Honourable
selected an overall winner in each category. Mentions in each category:

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Michael da Costa
Fortunes Fine Jewellers, T oronto

Diamond Hair Brooch

This whimsical hair brooch, a throwback to a romantic
period of days gone by, is handmade and features 84
round brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 1.30cts.


Durga Chokhani
Karat Fine Jewellery, L ondon, ON

Scalloped-Edge Diamond Necklace

Scalloped bands of 14k white gold feature 28 round brilliant-cut
diamonds weighing 0.63tcw and a 0.42ct pear-shaped chocolate-
coloured diamond, plus a 0.44ct pear-shaped champagne-coloured
diamond. The pendant hangs from a delicate 14k white gold chain.


David Blitt
Troy Shoppe J ewellers, C algary

Diamond and Gold Ring

Three round brilliant-cut diamonds emerge from a nest of 18k
rose gold with platinum accents in this 18k white gold ladies’
ring. Bands of diamonds add brilliant highlights for a total
diamond weight of 1.14cts.

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Alfredo A lvarez
Aurum Designs, T oronto

A Swirl of Platinum Elegance

A swirl of platinum set with 33 diamonds
of 0.66tcw hugs a 2.68ct green
tourmaline in this elegant ladies’ ring.


Michael da Costa
Fortunes Fine Jewellers, T oronto

Art-Nouveau Inspired Platinum Necklace

This art-nouveau inspired handmade platinum floral necklace is adaptable
to take alternate centre pieces. The necklace contains 110 round stones made
up of green tourmaline, tsavorites and emeralds, along with 24 natural fancy
yellow diamonds weighing 0.60tcw and white diamonds weighing 0.72tcw.


Herman Hess
Foresite Jewellers, T oronto

Double-decker Platinum Ring

A boldly designed double-decker, platinum ring features a natural blue square-
cut sapphire, bezel-set in a raised square setting and surrounded by round
brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.47ct. The bottom shank of the ring is set
with a centre line of fancy yellow diamonds and 58 round brilliant-cut white
diamonds on either side totalling 1.37tcw.

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Myles Mindham
Mindham Fine Jewellery, T oronto

Fluid Diamond Drop Earrings

Pure elegance aptly describes these fluid Canadian diamond drop earrings
featuring two diamonds, each weighing 0.33ct, two round brilliant-cut
diamonds, each weighing 0.10ct, and two round brilliant-cut diamonds, each
weighing 0.04ct. The Canadian diamonds burst like shooting stars in the
centre of the drop and are enhanced by 152 round brilliant-cut diamonds in
a bead setting, weighing 0.98tcw.


Michael daCosta
Fortunes Fine Jewellers, T oronto

Trembling Diamond Top Ring

Trembling diamond tops weighing 0.90tcw are accented by 22
round brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 0.10tcw in this fanciful
ladies’ 18k yellow and white gold ring that has movement and style.

Llyn Strelau
Jewels B y Design, C algary

Diamond and Gold Cuff Bracelet

A bezel-set, excalibur cut diamond is
strategically placed between an open and
solid cuff in this polished and bead-blasted
18k yellow and 19k white gold bracelet.
The cuff is hinged at the top and locked by
spring action at the bottom.


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Wanda Jane W oycenko

Treasurers Fine Jewellers, B onnyville, AB

Tahitian Pearl Entrapment

A beautiful Tahitian pearl is entrapped in 14k white gold, accented
with micro pavé-set diamonds totalling 0.45ct. The uniqueness of
the ring is how the pearl rolls to highlight the varying hues of the
pearl’s nacre.


Mark Katzeff
Mark Katzeff Goldsmith I nc., E dmonton

Mother-of-Pearl and Tahitian Pearl Necklace

This modern necklace features a 14k white gold pendant inlaid with
mother-of-pearl and a 0.04ct bezel-set, round brilliant-cut diamond.
A Tahitian pearl tops off a pavé strip containing 19 round brilliant-
cut diamonds, giving the necklace a futuristic appeal.

Herman H ess
Foresite J ewellers, T oronto

Pearl Choker and Earring Set

Silver-grey and pink-rose pearls
interspersed with diamonds are
delicately balanced on 14k white gold
wires creating a softly romantic choker
and matching earrings.

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Noam Hakak
Noam C arver F ine J ewellery, M ontreal

Candy Floss Inspired Gemstone Ring

A 14k white gold ring takes on the look of
candy floss with a rare uvarovite garnet
and a pink colbalto calcite. A strip of round
brilliant-cut diamonds of 0.24tcw separate
the two stones. Pink sapphires of 0.65tcw
and tsavorite weighing 1.04tcw are added
as accents.



Varouj Tabakian
J ewellery by V arouj, T oronto

Geometric Gemstone Ring

This handmade, custom-designed ring showcases two geometric-
shaped, laser-cut tourmalines — one pink at 6.50ct and the
other green at 3.50ct. A 1.80ct checkerboard-cut tapered citrine
baguette is set on one side of the shank, while a 0.10ct diamond
baquette is added for accent.


Mark Katzeff
Mark Katzeff Goldsmith I nc., E dmonton

Slate and Blue Zircon Pendant/Brooch

The use of slate gives this 14k yellow and white gold pendant/
brooch an organic backdrop for a 2.50ct round blue zircon and
nine yellow, bezel-set sapphires.

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Excellence In Design Awards

September 14, 2009
The Excellence in Design Awards reception was a recognition of the
Canadian jewellery industry’s culture and craftmanship. Attended by more
than 100 guests including some of the industry’s top designers, the night
was a resounding successs.

From left to right, top to bottom:

1. From Left: Herman Hess (Foresite Jewellers), Varouj Tabakian (Jewellery by Varouj), Michael
daCosta (Fortunes Fine Jewellery), Durga Chokhani (Karat Fine Jewellery Design), Olivier Felicio
(Canadian Jeweller magazine) and Noam Hakak (Noam Carver Fine Jewellery).
2. Durga Chokhani and Olivier Felicio.
3. Coloured Gemstones winner Noam Hakak and Olivier Felicio.
4. Pearl category winner Herman Hess and Olivier Felicio.

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Survivor Story
Mine to market, J.S.N. does it all.
By Sarah B. H ood

he story of J.S.N. is a Horatio Alger tale set in the real world. “He started working for a few houses, and then went off on his own. It’s a
Founded in Toronto in 1985, the company is the brainchild of true ‘Canadian Dream’ story,” says Steve Reale, Director of International
Joseph Shilon, a Georgian who was forced to leave his homeland Sales and Marketing for J.S.N. Jewellery Inc. “Now, he considers himself
with little more than a suitcase during the period of Soviet anti-Jewish truly Canadian, and this is his only home. He has said he would never
policies. He first relocated to Israel, becoming a diamond cutter at the leave; we’ve been pressured to go to London or New York, but he wants
age of 15, and eventually settled in Canada. to remain here.”

Contemporary colour stone ring

with Canadian white diamonds

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“He is still considered the new kid on the block here, but to the rest of the world,
the company is known as a true heavyweight.”

Since its founding, J.S.N. has grown into a world leader in jewellery
manufacturing. “It’s solely based on Joseph; he’s such a visionary and
so ahead of his time. What he’s always focused on is affordable luxury
jewellery for everyone,” says Reale. “He is still considered the new kid
on the block here, but to the rest of the world, the company is as known
as a true heavyweight.” J.S.N. has just been invited to show in Hall 2 at
BaselWorld next spring, which he says is, “an extreme privilege; you’re
there with all the powerhouses.”

From corporate head offices in Toronto, J.S.N. coordinates business

activities and distribution in more than 20 countries. European
affairs are managed from a London office. A recently opened office in
Washington will handle U.S. and international duty-free business, while
a Bangkok office and a sales office in Mumbai support dealers in the
Pacific Rim.

The company makes substantial diamond purchases annually. About

20% of these are Canadian diamonds, through Harry Winston’s share of
the Diavik mine; these stones are all sold in the North American market
under the brand name of Canadian Ice Diamonds. J.S.N. is also a non- Steve Reale & J.S.N. Asian team with Mr. & Mrs Ron Hoffman (Canadian
Canadian diamond siteholder. Ambassador to Thailand) at official launch of Canadian Ice Diamonds at the
Bangkok International Fair.
Among the first Canadian manufacturers to embrace offshore
production, the company began manufacturing in Bangkok in 1996, and “Joseph says people can look at this downturn with fear or as a great
has recently opened a diamond cutting facility in Chiang Mai, Thailand. opportunity. As people started walking away from Canadian sites, we
With room for 3,000 cutters, the Chiang Mai plant will handle all the actually increased our business. The philosophy is: if someone is going
company’s diamond cutting. to be buying jewellery, they’re going to be buying it from our retailers,”
he says. “Our second most popular area would be the U.K., and the
J.S.N.’s customers include Goldsmith/Mappin Webb in the U.K. and U.K. was one of the most affected by this economic downturn, but we
Signet, along with Fred Meyer in the U.S. “We also deal with all the haven’t been hurt by it. It shows how our product turns and how strong
Canadian majors,” says Reale. “In Canada and the U.S., we have over 550 a company we are.”
independent retailers.”
A critical element in the success of the company has been its approach
Even during the recent economic downturn, the company has not to marketing and merchandising, which has not been afraid to borrow
faltered. “Joseph has always said that his style is set to thrive in tough tactics from other industries. For instance, “my background is in the
economic times, because he provides jewellery based on the market,” food industry, so I’ve been trying to bring some food strategies into
says Reale. jewellery, and I think it’s been successful,” says Reale.

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Left: All-Canadian comfort-fit anniversary bands.

Right: Three-stone loose-linked pendant.

J.S.N. pours enormous energy into supporting its retailers. “We J.S.N. has also created jewellery at a wide range of price points. One
provide them not only with a product, but also with a strategy,” he initiative in this regard is a brand of family jewellery called Always
says. “We do a full catalogue support system; we kind of shocked the and Forever, which lets consumers pick out the birthstones of family
industry in 2003 by offering loss-leader strategies, and we have great members for rings and pendants. On Mother’s Day, each piece is
Christmas promotions.” packaged with a card and a pink ribbon informing the recipient that a
portion of proceeds will go to the Breast Cancer Society of Canada.
When Reale first came into the jewellery industry, he says, he was surprised
to see how little attention was paid to catalogues. “In 2003, when I came to For the lower price-point jewellery, J.S.N. developed a custom countertop
the business, I saw very generic jewellery catalogues,” he says. display tower. “A lot of jewellers thought it was maybe too much like
a department store presentation,” Reale says, “but we were seeing too
“We have more of a theme: this year we’re using ‘Diamond Wonderland.’ many non-jewellers making money from jewellery. Now no one has to
We just launched our Canadian diamond; what better than an Ice go outside our industry to buy their jewellery — people would much
Princess feel?” Of course, “At the end of the day, I don’t really want to sell rather buy their jewellery from a great jewellery store.”
the catalogues, I want to sell jewellery,” he qualifies, “but our competition
isn’t other jewellers: it’s iPods; it’s jackets; it’s fashion. We have to make Another line, called Lulu London, takes advantage of technical advances
our advertising as alluring as other industries.” in the area of electroforming. “We’re one of the handful of people in
the world who can actually do diamond-set electroforming,” says Reale.
Women are key drivers of jewellery sales, and also make up the largest Because the weight of gold is so slight in these pieces, “you’re able to get
proportion of magazine industry consumers, Reale points out. Therefore this big look and these incredible price points; that technology is only
it makes sense to use a magazine format to sell jewellery. getting better every year, and it really has a place in the market over the
next few years.”
“It’s done incredibly well for our retailers that have bought into it,” Reale
says. “The jewellers constantly say it’s our marketing tools that help Ultimately, he says, “The whole premise of our company, no matter
bring people into our stores. What’s nice is when one of our competitors what success we have, is always based on Joseph’s inspiration. He’s a
says ‘You know, your catalogue was great.’” grandfather with the energy of a 15-year-old, and jewellery is his passion;
he truly loves this business.”
The promotional material uses numerous ploys that are rarely associated
with jewellery sales, Reale admits. “We’ve done scratch-and-wins; we’ll Shilon and his business also have a passion for Canada and the local
do anything we can to sell jewellery. We want to show them that we’re on industry. “It’s great that our international business has brought us onto
the leading edge, and we jump to another campaign every year.” the world stage, but we are a Canadian business; Canada is our home,”
says Reale.
One catalogue allowed consumers to add a sticker to the catalogue that
said ‘I love it!’ or ‘I want it!’” In that case, Reale says, one store reported a “We’ve got to band together and figure out how to make our industry
customer coming in to make a purchase for his wife based on the sticker: strong,” he says. “We need to take care of our industry. If we build a
“They had kept the catalogue in the household for over one month.” strong industry, we’re all good.” [CJ]

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“Goose Cuff,” in sterling silver and

oxidized silver, with 18k yellow gold
beak and pink sapphire eye.

Rising Stars
Only nine months old, CJ introduces the newest name
in jewellery design: Manya & Roumen.
B y Bonnie Siegler

t took some global travel and a fairytale childhood to inspire Manya East coast to New York City. In 2004, Manya began freelancing for a
Tessler’s whimsical creations that are sure to become future trends Brooklyn toy company and it’s in Brooklyn today where Manya lives with
in jewellery design. The 34-year-old Tessler grew up in Philadelphia, her husband Roumen Vragov, whom she married in 2006. Together they
where her father used to read “The Owl & The Pussycat,” along with other formed Manya & Roumen, LLC, a jewellery design company that began
Edward Lear poems. While attending Wesleyan University in Pennsylvania, on Valentine’s Day of this year, where each piece tells its own story and
the young student studied abroad in Rome at the Tyler School of Art for each wearer interprets the story in their own way. Still new to the scene,
one semester. Most college summers were spent in Mexico, except for the duo has already won the 2009 Mort Abelson New Designer of the Year
the months she worked at Maison des Jeunes in Montréal co-teaching Award at the JA NY Summer Show and received honourable mention at
photography to children. Upon graduation, Tessler journeyed to Japan the WJA Diva Awards in the Canadian Diamond Diva category. There’s
where she taught Spanish and English, ultimately moving back to the no doubt more accolades are set to come for this design team.

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Canadian Jeweller (CJ): You wrote a children’s book, “Yuki’s Ride Home”
— how did writing that book influence your jewellery’s originality?

Manya: It helped me to develop animal characters with personality and

attention to detail. Also when I add colour, using gemstones, the designs
are not just a simple sculpture. Right now I’m working on a chameleon
ring in both gold and silver versions. With the silver, I want to use earthy
stones like turquoise, so they’re vibrant stones, but not glittery.

CJ: In looking at your rings and other designs, it looks like certain fables
and fairytales are seen throughout your work. Which ones influenced
your creativity and what stories were your favourites growing up?

Manya: One of my rings is called “The Owl and the Pussycat” and my
dad read that story to me a lot. “Where The Sidewalk Ends” was another
favourite. It’s a lot of poetry with many line drawings. I create pieces that
invoke wonder and intrigue, and recreate pieces like the perfect curve of
a swan’s neck.

CJ: What are some other inspirations for your designs?

Manya: My husband and I visited Barcelona two summers ago and

“Great Blue Heron Ring” in 18k yellow we saw this wonderful graffiti on the shop shades. They had unique takes
gold with ruby and tsavorite garnet. on everything from animals to people. So illustrative graffiti is an idea
that stimulates me. Also, watching YouTube inspired me into making
my husband’s wedding ring, which is two entwined buffalo. The video
shows a little buffalo snatched by a crocodile while the two other larger
buffalo run off. In seconds, hundreds and hundreds of buffalo come back
to rescue the baby. It’s really quite beautiful.

CJ: Why do you design and carve your jewellery pieces out of wax before
casting them in metal?

Manya: I used to do clay sculptures and build miniature sets, then

photograph them. So I feel comfortable working with clay, but the wax is
even better because it’s harder so you can carve it while the definition and
detail remain. I enjoy the carving more than the polishing of the pieces.

CJ: Do you prefer textured finished pieces or smooth ones?

Manya: It depends on the piece. For the chameleon ring I’m working
on, I want him to be textured because they have that reptilian skin but I
did a snail ring and the shell is textured, but the snail’s body is smooth. I
hope the cool smoothness of the metal feels good against the skin while
the textured metals stimulate.

CJ: I’ve looked at a few of your pieces and wanted to ask you about the
influence behind the design and how you hope the wearer will feel. One
“Celestial Eye Goldfish ring” in 18k yellow is the “Grove Snail Ring” with 14 opals and ruby in 18k gold.
gold with two swiss blue topazes.
Manya: I chose the opals because I wanted a stone that would resemble
dewdrops, with a story that it’s first thing in the morning with dewdrops
on a snail. I find beauty in a lot of things that others find strange or ugly.
And the ruby is his eye.

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e d u c at io n a L


“Grove Snail Ring” in 18k yellow
gold, with 14 opals and a ruby.

CJ: “The Raven and Berries Ring” has a black diamond, seven rubies and a black pearl.
What is the inspiration for this piece?

Manya: That one is inspired by the fable, “The Raven and The Fox.” The rubies represent
berries, black diamond is the eye of the raven and black pearl is representative of
the moon.

CJ: “The Goose Cuff ” is unique and it veers away from your usual 18k gold to
sterling silver.

Manya: A page in my children’s book is a birds-eye view of birds and there they are
seagulls. Instead of doing a seagull, I ended up depicting a goose. But I hope to do a
seagull for the winter designs.

CJ: What do you see jewellery trends embracing this winter?

Manya: I’m not really up on trends, though I do read fashion magazines. I’m always
hoping the trend goes towards big jewellery pieces because I like making them. As for Let your sales message
my new designs for the winter, there’s the chameleon ring I spoke about, and a mouse sustain
ring. He’s going to look like he’s perched on the wearer’s finger and eating a grain of rice
or corn, so I’ll use a pearl for that. Brand your store(s)

CJ: You’ve lived in almost every corner of the world, but what area would you say has Free to consumer
contributed the most to your originality, imagination and design? and free to you

Manya: Rome, because of the sculptures, but then every place has its own inspiration for
me. When I lived in Japan, I was really motivated by nature because I was living by the
ocean and was inspired by all the life around the water. Montreal’s influence was the time
spent with children, so maybe that’s where I got some of my whimsical ideas. But if it’s
whimsy or originality or whatever, we hope that each piece makes the wearer feel special
and maybe elicits curiosity with others. [CJ]

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By A mber K laehn
The curious and growing world
of online learning.

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very September, I find myself gazing wistfully at students or by different instructors, the material delivered and emphasis of
going back to school and wish I were joining them. I miss the content is subject to more variance. With e-learning, all trainees see
anticipation of exciting courses, new teachers and classmates, and hear exactly the same subject matter.
buying school supplies and breaking the spine on pristine textbooks.
I may not have appreciated it in high school or university, but today I Another benefit of e-learning is that an employee’s progress can be
crave the pursuit of knowledge, and I continue to sign up for at least one automatically tracked, including the dates and time spent in a course,
new learning opportunity every year. and scores on any exams. Tests can be used to continually assess a
student’s knowledge, and to suggest areas of focus where additional
These days, my classroom is at my desk. I have exchanged textbooks for learning is required.
the world of online learning. And it is an exciting new world.
With access from anywhere at anytime, employees can train when it is
The way we live, work and think have all been irreversibly altered by convenient for them. They can learn at home or the office, and continue
technology. Education is no different. E-learning is the latest trend in at a learning pace that is comfortable for them. A known benefit of being
technological advances, making learning easy, current, flexible and able to proceed at one’s own pace is that the trainee learns the material
cost-effective. More importantly, it’s good for business. more thoroughly and experiences significantly higher rates of retention
than in classroom learning. Online courses also offer a variety of
Leading companies recognize that education is not a one-time event, delivery methods to help enhance learning and retention. Audio, videos,
but that learning needs to be a continuous and integral part of work graphics and scrolling text accommodate different learning styles
and life. Education keeps employees up-to-date with developments, and provide students with numerous ways to absorb course content.
and enhances performance and job satisfaction. Business success is Interactive games, multiple choice, true/false and fill-in-the-blank tests
more and more dependent upon high-quality employees who are able all engage the user for a better learning experience. With these methods,
to provide premium service learned through ongoing, effective training students learn the right answers and can be provided with explanations
programs. As retailers, we need to know more than ever before. And for wrong answers.
we need the ability to process new information at a faster pace to keep
up with consumers who are increasingly knowledgeable due to the We are also starting to see more use of virtual classrooms and audio/
Internet. In this economy, we face a major challenge to keep our staff video conferencing. These instructor-led, online learning sessions
current and proficient. provide an opportunity for all of the participants to log on at the same
time and communicate with the instructor and other students.
E-learning is the answer. The trend toward e-learning is booming
because it addresses organizations’ growing learning needs. E-learning With e-learning, employees no longer need to be away from work for
delivers efficient and flexible training methods. It is convenient, cost- extended periods of time while attending courses. This results in direct
effective and enables customized content. savings from reduced travel expenses, as well as time and opportunity loss.

In the jewellery industry, e-learning has applications for customer- With traditional training methods, companies generally spend more
service training, product knowledge and professional development. money on expenses, such as f lights and hotels, than on the actual
Suppliers are showcasing their product specifications in high-tech training programs. If lost opportunity is taken into account, the
formats. The American Gem Society now has certification online. actual costs of training are even higher. Time spent travelling and
in classrooms is time when staff is unable to perform daily work
Courses can be tailored to meet your organization’s specific needs and requirements, and increases the potential of missed sales while
requirements. Specific data such as your own policies, procedures and associates are off the sales floor.
contact information can be added to greatly increase the relevance of
the training experience. Live, classroom-based training is becoming too cost-prohibitive and
burdensome. Trainers and consultants can be expensive, not to mention
The concept of e-learning offers uniformity and consistency in course the inconvenience of getting the instructor and students together in the
material and delivery. In classroom courses, delivered at different times same place at the same time. It is also often too expensive and disruptive
to send all employees for training at once because it lessens the
effectiveness of the intended results. E-learning enables group learning
with less disruption, at lower cost.

All in all, it’s no surprise that technology plays a very important role
in education and learning. E-learning’s popularity is rapidly growing
as a delivery method of training, and most companies are finding that
including it in their overall learning strategy offers clear benefits. [CJ]

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One Step Ahead

Attracting top talent to your small business.

constant challenge for small businesses, not just in the Canadian Know Why People Work for You
jewellery industry, but across the board, is how to find and hold Recruiting and retention are inextricably linked, so having a clear picture
onto the best employees. The issue is even more significant in of your work environment from an employee’s standpoint can help you
a down economy when small business owners’ time and money may communicate what it would be like to work for you, and how a prospective
already be spread thin. employee will fit with your company’s culture.

Attracting new employees is much like attracting new customers. It’s not Ask your employees what they like about working for you. Is it the mutually
enough to just post an ad with the job requirements anymore; businesses respectful, fun atmosphere? Great customers? Better quality of life? A flexible
that convey their values, unique benefits and create consistent messaging work schedule? Less bureaucracy? In other words, what would someone say
will reach the kind of people right for their position. when asked by an outsider, “What is it like to work there?” Knowing how
current employees would answer these questions is critical if you’re using a
The idea of “employment branding” has become crucial for large and referral program to recruit.
small businesses alike. Why? As the baby-boomer generation approaches
retirement, there’ll be more openings for fewer people, and the war for Make Your Job Ads Stand Out
talent will become even more competitive. At the same time, online Once you’ve gathered all that information, it’s good to step back and
recruiting is shift ing the balance of power towards job candidates, who consider what your job ad will say about your company. Simply listing job
can now research and assess competing offers more comprehensively responsibilities and needed qualifications says little to candidates. The trend
than ever before. With that backdrop, using some or all of the following towards online job postings means you have much more opportunity to
proactive measures in your hunt for talent can help yield better results. talk not just about the specific job, but also the management style culture of
Your website is a powerful recruitment tool. your company, work practices, opportunities for career growth and industry
recognition and awards. People want to work for “the best” and by speaking
Job candidates are researching you as deeply as you’re researching them, about what you offer employees in return for their work encourages
which means you need to pay attention to what your website says about candidates to pursue your company.
your company as a place to work. Consider creating an “employment”
home page that underscores the advantages of working for your Go Beyond Ads, Postings and Job Fairs
organization. Th is is not a listing of job openings but an employment To build the best candidate pool, you need to broaden recruiting efforts
marketing tactic. Talk about some of the “wow” benefits you provide. beyond the tried and true. Talk to people about the types of people you
Publish case studies of how people have grown with your company. Help might need — to your current employees, suppliers, customers, and even
candidates answer the question, “What’s in it for me?” your neighbours.

Think Strategically About Talent Trade shows can be a great opportunity to meet candidates. And generating
One tactic is to think not just about what you need a new employee to do, some good PR that shows your unique work environment — a few nice
but what kind of person will do the best job. That means first identifying words in a newspaper or on TV — can start a flood of resumes.
the strategic goals for your company, and then identifying the talent
you’ll need in order to get there — your “people” strategy needs to be Bosses often talk about how “lucky” they were to find a great employee. But
part of your “business” strategy. by casting a wide net, presenting your company in the best light, and looking
at your job vacancy from a prospective employee’s vantage point will help to
So having not only a job description, but also a list of ideal personal take luck out of the equation. [CJ]
qualities, including values, culture and ways of working will help
Howard Grosfield is Vice President & General Manager, Small Business Services,
pull together a pool of candidates you can tap for both current and American Express Canada & International. The American Express Small Business
future openings. Monitor is a quarterly survey of small business owners across the country.

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School Report
Jewellery and gemmology program enrolments
are on the rise despite a tightening job market.

ver the past year, while the true business world has been
tightening its belt, the educational sector has been growing. As
experienced workers are laid off or retire, many turn to colleges
to explore potential new careers. This is certainly true in the jewellery
industry, which, even these days, offers attractive opportunities to the
entrepreneurially minded-person.

Canada has a network of one-year certificate and two-year diploma

programs in jewellery and gemmology, mostly in community colleges
focusing on technical craft skills. These include New Brunswick College of
Craft and Design and two major schools in Québec: the École de joaillerie
de Montréal and the École de joaillerie de Québec. Ontario has full-time
programs at George Brown College in Toronto and Georgian College in
Barrie, with some instruction also offered at the Canadian Gemmological
Association and Fleming College in Haliburton.

British Columbia also has a range of options, including the Canadian

Institute of Gemmology, Vancouver Community College and Kootenay
School of the Arts at Selkirk College. In the North, Nunavut Arctic College
offers a jewellery program, while the Yellowknife Campus of Aurora College
runs a highly-specialized program in diamond cutting and polishing
designed to serve the emerging market created by Canadian mining.

“In Canada, there’s a definite distinction between programs that offer

BFA and those that offer two- to three-year programs,” says Greg
Merrall, coordinator of the Jewellery and Metals and Goldsmithing
programs at Georgian College. He refers to the Ontario College of Art
and Design (OCAD) in Toronto, Nova Scotia College of Art and Design
University in Halifax and Alberta College of Art and Design in Calgary,
which are all fine art colleges that train original designers rather than
craft technicians. “I don’t think they’re competitive; I think they’re
complementary,” he says.

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Georgian College offers a two-year diploma in Jewellery and Metals and “It’s quite well spread in Ontario; George Brown has a very solid technical
a one-year postgraduate certificate in Goldsmithing and Silversmithing. training reputation. OCAD has a focus on fine arts, and Georgian has
“Enrolment is up,” Merrall reports. “Our student base is primarily small- lapidary as part of the curriculum; unique to that program,” says Chan,
town and rural from across the country, so our mix has always included adding that her programs are “very full” this year.
high school graduates, people who have finished college or university and
are back at school in their late 20s or 30s, and people who are in their late Although manufacturing jobs are less available, “we always have a fair
40s or early 50s starting a second career.” number of students who go into the industry as business owners, as
entrepreneurs,” says Chan. “We still have students who go into the industry
This combination provides for “the best learning opportunities for everyone,” as bench workers, and I don’t think the number has lessened, but it is more
Merrall says. “The younger students may be more naive, but they know important for graduates to look across Canada. They should take advantage
no boundaries. The more mature students understand time management. of Canada being a big country and look at jobs in other provinces.”
Put them all together and you get a great mix.” He adds, “Over 90% of my
students get work in the jewellery industry almost immediately.” Like Georgian College, George Brown has always had strong enrolment
from mature students. “We have a lot of people coming to our program
However, enrolment is down at the Canadian Institute of Gemmology who have already had two or three careers and raised a family, and now
(CIG) in Vancouver, which offers a flexible program, mainly via distance they’re doing something for themselves,” she says. “They bring to the
education, with an Accredited Gemmologist diploma and Diamond Expert program a lot of business experience that is an adjunct to what they’re
or Fine Jewellery Expert certificates. learning in the program.”

“We have experienced a considerable drop in enrolment that reflects the The Canadian Gemmological Association in Toronto has put some of its
situation in the industry,” says CIG Director of Education J. Wolf Kuehn. courses on hold while undergoing a process of registration with the provincial
“We have students ranging in age from 16 up to 82. I find that only about government that will give the program stronger credentials, reports President
30% of our students come from the industry, and the other 70% come from Duncan Parker. “We are currently offering a diamond grading course —
the general public.” something there’s a lot of interest in — and a coloured gemstone course. We’re
not offering a diploma program until the certification
At George Brown in Toronto, students can take a one-year certificate registration is complete.”
in Gemmology or Jewellery Essentials, a two-year diploma in Jewellery
Methods, or a three-year diploma in Jewellery Arts. “It’s important that
institutions don’t have too much overlap in terms of programs, so that
we use our government funding and our resources the best we can, so
that we’re not flooding the market,” says Wing-Ki Chan, George Brown’s
Coordinator for Jewellery Studies.

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i n n o va

Parker sees diminished demand for employees in the industry, but says
registrations are up because of an increase in general interest courses. “Our
graduates are not going into a conventional job environment; they may become
self-employed or start a business in buying gems. There are people who appraise,
consult, sort gemstones or work as gemmologists in retail stores. There are similar
trends all over — increased enrolment and decreased demand for conventional
employment,” he says.

Students who are part of family businesses also make up a proportion of the
student body. “The jewellery industry does tend to be family-related,” says Parker.
“In my experience, fewer and fewer of those businesses have people in the next
generation wanting to go on in the business-they see how hard and how long
their parents are working. However, many students of gemmology are training to
work in their family businesses.”

“We don’t get a lot, but certainly it’s a consideration,” says Merrall. “Every small everyday
town in Canada has a jewellery store, and those kids have to go somewhere to
learn about jewellery.”

“Both in gemmology and jewellery, we have a fair number of students who come
from jewellery families,” says Chan. One current student comes from a fifth-
generation business: Mitton’s Jewellery in Ridgetown, Ontario. Both last year
and this coming spring, the business is hosting an exhibit of student work in
partnership with the college. “He’s not the only one; he’s one of the examples,”
she says.

Educational institutions can only take students part of the way along their
learning path; the industry must also be involved. “A lot of the retail industry
doesn’t realize that a trained sales force is important. They are not aware of that; it
is neglected,” says Kuehn. Let your sales message
“Employers have to accept some responsibility for training,” says Merrall. “Many
people in the industry want specific skill sets, but our job is to provide a more Brand your store(s)
generic, well-rounded education so graduates have a grasp of the whole industry,
not just a part of it. While our students are trying to figure out where they fit in, it’s Free to consumer
up to us to offer them as many chances for success as we can.” and free to you

“It’s important for the programs to be up-to-date and stay current with the
industry,” says Chan. “It’s also good that the industry understands the kind of
education we give our students so they know their strengths and what additional
training they will need to bring them up to speed with the business. The industry
needs skilled workers, and the colleges need industry support. We can only be
successful if we work together.” [CJ]

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Directory of Canadian
Jewellery Education Programs
Aurora College, Yellowknife Campus:
Bag 9700, 5004, 54th St, Yellowknife, NT X1A 2R3
T: (867) 920-3030, (866) 291-4866
W: www.auroracollege.nt.ca
BRITISH COLUMBIA Program: Diamond Cutting & Polishing (22 weeks)
Canadian Institute of Gemmology - Contact: Courtney Keenan, instructor
Pacific School of Jewellery Arts: T: (867) 873-7585
Box 57010, Vancouver, BC V5K 5G6
T: (604) 530-8569 Nunavut Arctic College - Nunatta Campus:
W: www.cigem.ca PO Box 600, Iqaluit, NU X0A 0H0
Programs: Accredited Gemmologist (CIG) T: (867) 979-7200
Diploma (one- or two-year programs), F: (867) 857-7102
Diamond Expert (CIG) certificate, Fine W: www.nac.nu.ca
Jewellery Expert (CIG) certificate Programs: Diploma in Jewellery & Metalwork (two years)
Contact: J. Wolf Kuehn, director of Contact: Beata Hejnowicz, senior instructor
education, T: (604) 530-8569 T: (867) 979-7267, (866) 988-4636
E: webmaster@cigem.ca F: 867-979-7107

Kootenay School of the

Arts at Selkirk College:
606 Victoria St, Nelson, BC V1L 4K9
T: (250) 352-2821, (877) 552-2821
F: (250) 352-1625
W: www.selkirk.ca/ksa
Programs: Diploma in Jewellery & Small
Object Design (two years), Certificate in
Metal (one year)
Contact: Laura White, chair
T: (250) 352-2821 x24
E: lwhite@selkirk.ca

Vancouver Community College:

250 West Pender St,
Vancouver, BC V6B 1S9
T: (604) 443-8300
F: (604) 443-8588
W: www.vcc.ca ALBERTA
Programs: Jewellery Art and Design Alberta College of Art and Design:
Diploma (two years), Gemmology 1407-14th Ave NW,
Certification Program (two years, part- Calgary, AB T2N 4R3
time), Canadian Jeweller Jets program T: (403) 284-7600
from the Canadian Jewellers Association F: (403) 289-6682
(intensive program in 15 books), Graduate W: www.acad.ca
Sales Associate Certification from the Programs: BFA, Major in Jewellery &
Jewellers Education Foundation of Metals (four years)
the American Gem Society (12 hours), Contact: Charles Lewton-Brain, head
Jewellery electives T: (403) 338-5537
Contact: Donna Hawrelko, program E: charles.lewton-brain@acad.ca
T: (604) 443-8670
F: (604) 443-8393

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Canadian Gemmological Association:
1767 Avenue Rd
Toronto, ON M5M 3Y8
T: 416-785-0962, (877) 244-3090 QUÉBEC
F: 416-785-9043 École de joaillerie de Montréal:
E: info@canadiangemmological.com 417 de Maisonneuve Blvd W, 9th fl,
W: www.canadiangemmological.com Montréal, QC H3A 1L2
Programs: advanced courses, general T: (514) 281-9922, (877) 281-9922
interest courses F: (514) 281-9933
W: www.ecoledejoailerie.com
Fleming College’s Haliburton Programs: Diplôme des Études
School of the Arts: Collégiales/DEC (three years, offered
297 College Dr, PO Box 839 through Cégep de Vieux-Montréal),
Haliburton, ON K0M 1S0 Introductory Jewellery Techniques
T: (705) 457-1680 x3, (866) 353-6464 (420 hours: 7 levels of 60 hours
W: www.haliburtonschoolofthearts.ca each), plus advanced courses,
Program: Jewellery Essentials (15 weeks general interest courses
intensive) Contact: Carole Plante, director
Contact: Jennifer Bain, coordinator T: (514) 281-9922
T: (705) 457-1680 x6743 E: ecolejoail.mtl@qc.aira.com
E: jbain@flemingc.on.ca
École de Joaillerie de Québec:
George Brown College - Jewellery 299, 3e Avenue, local 304
Arts & Gemmology: Québec, QC G1L 2V7
PO Box 1015, Station B, T: (418) 648-8003
Toronto, ON M5T 2T9 F: (418) 648-6235
T: (416) 415-2000, (800) 265-2000 W: www.ecoledejoaillerie.ca
W: www.georgebrown.ca Programs: Techniques de Métiers
Programs: Gemmology (one year), d’art-joaillerie DEC (Jewellery
Jewellery Arts (three years), Jewellery techniques diploma, three years),
Essentials (one year), Jewellery Methods Le perfectionnement des artisans
(two years) (professional development, fall or
T: (416) 415-5000 x4462 spring sessions), Cours d’initiation
E: jewellerystudies@georgebrown.ca à la joaillerie (general interest, 6-15
Georgian College - School Contact: Micheline Boucher, director
of Design & Visual Arts: T: (418) 648-8003
1 Georgian Dr, E: mboucher@ecoledejoaillerie.ca
Barrie, ON L4M 3X9
T: (705) 722-1968
F: (705) 722-1531
E: www.jewelleryschool.ca
Programs: Jewellery & Metals (two-year
diploma), Goldsmithing & Silversmithing NOVA SCOTIA
(one-year postgraduate) Nova Scotia College of Art &
Contact: Greg Merrall, coordinator Design University - Craft Division:
T: (705) 728-1968, x1287 5163 Duke St, Halifax, NS B3J 3J6
E: gmerrall@georgianc.on.ca T: (902) 444-9600
NEW BRUNSWICK F: (902) 425-2420
Ontario College of Art & Design- New Brunswick College
W: www.nscad.ns.ca
Material Art & Design: of Craft & Design:
Programs: BFA, Major in Jewellery
100 McCaul St, 457 Queen St, PO Box 6000,
Design & Metalsmithing (four years)
Toronto, ON, M5T 1W1 Fredericton, NB E3B 5H1
Contact: Heather Harris,
T: (416) 977-6000 T: (506) 453-2305
administrative secretary
F: (416) 977-6006 F: (506) 457-7352
T: (902) 494-8154
W: www.ocad.ca W: www.nbccd.ca/nbccd
E: hharris@nscad.ca
Program: BDes, Major in Jewellery/ Programs: Diploma in Fine Craft,
Metalsmithing (four years) specialty in Jewellery/Metal Arts
Contact: Beth Alber, Material Arts and (two years)
Design chair Contact: Michael Maynard,
T: (416) 977-6000 x309 principal and academic dean
E: balber@ocad.ca E: michael.maynard@gnb.ca

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Bright Lights,
Gold City Doublet rings in peach gold with
rutile quartz and blue agate,
rutile quartz and paste of jade,
rutile quartz and mother of pearl
by Roberto Coin.

Despite rocky economic outlooks and a major shift

within the Italian industry, the marvelous and majestic
City Of Gold is shining brighter than ever.
By P aul A guirre

t’s that time of year again — the third installment of Vicenzaoro. As usual, this year’s Choice
exhibit did not disappoint, serving as a platform to push sales and boost orders just in time
for the holiday rush. It also serves as a sneak peak of what’s to come in terms of design and
style, with a few treats and updates of current initiatives along the way.

This September’s show saw 1,333 exhibitors, 993 of which were from Italy. Often regarded as
a Mecca for jewellery design and gold, it was no surprise that buyers came from far and wide
with excitement and anticipation to see the latest offerings from the country. The exhibition
area, impressive at 53,000-square-metres, boasted four pavilions showcasing everything from
fine and commercial gold ware to precious stones and pearls.

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Brand Lab, a new space introduced to promote the world of advertising

and marketing, along with retailing and merchandising, was also a hit at
the show. It linked retailers and other interested parties to event planners,
interior designers, furniture suppliers and security systems. There was
also a plethora of other services retailers will most likely need at some
point in this new era of retailing, where reaching the consumer by any
means possible will become a stronger priority over time — be it a visual
courtship from the window or clever invite-only gatherings throughout
the year. It called into question the important concept of store redesign —
the changing landscape of how consumers view the retail outlet. Retailers
need to reassess their possibilities, and this was the perfect venue in
which to decide what that may be: a store redesign? Promotional events?
Sometimes consumers can be caught up in judging a book by its cover,
so a multidimensional approach is now necessary to maintain such an
impact. For this, Brand Lab did its job, living up to its “creation, evolution,
revolution” motto by offering seminars, meetings and professional advice
on these very topics: how do we evolve and change while staying practical?
Enamel and gold And what about foreign and new exhibitors? According to Domenico
necklace by Bliss.
Girardi, General Manager of Fiera di Vicenza, because of the recession,
there is a change in who the show is courting for future seasons. “Not
only more distributors, but also manufacturing companies. Young, new
companies and new designers are the future of the business; foreign
exhibitors are anticipated to grow from 25% to 35%, but they must be
Shuttle Refinements top-of-the-range.”
One of the show’s highlights was definitely Gold Expressions 2009, a joint
venture between organizing body Fiera di Vicenza and the World Gold
Council; it’s one of the Council’s key marketing initiatives to promote the
‘Made in Italy’ product to stimulate global consumer demand. Launched
at the January show, the exhibition returned to Vicenza after touring
the globe. An interesting point of the project is that it unites the Italian
jewellery designers and manufacturers, providing interesting insights into
trends and linking retail manufacturers and, eventually, consumers. “Since
its launch in 2004, Gold Expressions has established an international
reputation for both innovation and creativity, becoming a focal point that
enables both media and buyers to identify trendsetting collections,” noted
Philip Olden, WGC Managing Director. Interestingly enough, the WGC
reported a 25% drop in gold during the first quarter of 2009, while China
recorded a growth of 3%; it’s evident that times are shifting.

Trends forecaster Worth Global Style Network provided the perspective

on emerging trends, grouping the offerings into three trends: Connect,
bridging cultural boundaries for detail, colour and texture; extraOrdinary,
reminding us that jewellery is still very much a part of fashion with
quality craftsmanship; and Transform, playing heavily on the influences
found in nature and translated into a majority of the collections. Another
fascinating moment of the show was the “mai sedersi sugli allori” (Never
sit down on your laurels) chair sculpture installations by artist Carla
Tolomeo. Made from fabric, marble, ceramic and bronze, they illustrated
the perfect partnership between design and function, honouring beauty
before practicality. Enamel and gold earrings by Bliss.

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The show itself is also changing, and in retrospect, offered insight into
and explored the relationship between customers and retailers. “That is
why,” continued Girardi, “we insisted at this show — with workshops
and seminars — on the theme of the sales outlet and of the evolution of
retailing and consumption models, also thanks to the collaboration with
the Italian Gold Jewellery Retailers Federation (Federdettaglianti), which
brought 600 operators to Vicenza. In any case, Vicenzaoro Choice’s focus
is specifically on the retailing sector.”

Hot Topics
There was also much talk about intellectual property and economic
development at this September’s show, with many discussions and
seminars centered on the topic. Organized by the Ministry of Economic
Development and the Department for Enterprise and Internationalization
in collaboration with several other bodies, including the Intellectual
Romantica ring by
Property Organization, there was a strong focus on discussing a strategy Chimento, with black and
to strengthen business practices and protect intangible assets. Guest white diamonds
speakers included Diego Nardin, Managing Director of Fope Gioielli, and
designer Marco Bicego.
craft Made In Italy branding as a set of values and a reference for what can
However, the standout development out of Italy at the moment isn’t be qualified as such, much like organizing bodies do in other industries
only the country’s designers or stunning creations, but also its objective like natural health or the organic/eco-friendly claim when products are
to enhance and preserve the Italian jewellery sector. And so came the usually awarded an EcoCert or USDA logo. This new “image” was used
Assicor movement. Developed by the Italian Association of the Chambers for the first time last May at the JCK Las Vegas show in the Italian Pavilion,
of Commerce, it was founded “to promote coordination and productive through the design of the Assicor booth and educational documents.
development of the jewellery, silver and related industries” and presented The new logo bears a monogram of the letters G and I, in the shades of
its Gioiello Italiano (Italian Jewels) project, an integrated communications brown and gold, which has become the distinctive mark of the Italian
and marketing project to promote the Made in Italy movement. The jewellery industry. In foreign markets, the logo also comes with the motto
project has two objectives: to achieve a unified coordinated image for “Yes, it’s true. Italian Jewellery Culture” underlined with national colours.
foreign markets and to create and design promotional tools to push sales Consumers want branded jewellery, to help them identify what is what,
in the domestic market. A big part of the Assicor project is to refine and making for more sound and secure purchasing practices. They feel “safer”
buying branded items, and this alliance’s purpose is to help and serve the
industry and its people. With 25,000 points of sale in Italy, it’s difficult to
ensure authenticity across all sectors, which is important to protect the
Italian name, so this new “signature for products” will let consumers and
the industry know which brands to trust.

The concept of luxury was also on everyone’s list this show, with many of the
industry’s heavyweights voicing their opinions. “The misunderstanding
of luxury is that jewellery is an art,” commented hotelier turned jeweller
Roberto Coin when he sat down with CJ. “We want to sell class and style
at affordable prices.” Starting his business at age 33, he wasn’t born into
the industry, but has now made over 50,000 pieces, which is almost 600
new styles/models a year. “We are a family business. We do the sketches,
we do the communications. I write all of my press releases. I want people
to know these are my thoughts.” When asked about the economic toll
on his business, he’s very frank: “My business is always ok. The others
can answer that. Everyone has gone down, it’s obvious. Some more,
some less.” But with this new evolution of luxury and the direction of the
industry, how does he manage to stay ahead? “By making good designs.
People copy the past, but they cannot copy the future. This makes me
proud when people copy my designs, but I’m not afraid to move forward
Damiani Sunflower ring with sapphires, and see what’s next.” Even Marco Bicego chimed in on the luxury debate.
amethyst, quartz and white diamonds.
“I believe in everyday luxury, the kind that is very versatile. I want to
create pieces a woman can wear with everything from jeans to dresses.”

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Romantica necklace and

earrings by Chimento.


Want a look ahead at future trends? For the third year in a row,
Fiera di Vicenza has partnered with the TJF Group to uncover
the TJF Trendbook 2011+, exclusively previewed at the Choice
show. A new addition this year is the inclusion of high-end
accessories into the jewellery market. Here’s a look at the
megatrends to look out for:

Generation Hope
It’s been said that when we look back in history, the new
Obama Generation will be regarded as Generation H for Hope.
Emerging from global crisis, design will flourish with inventive,
hopeful and inspirational pieces reflecting the brightness of
Alessandro Pagliami, Regional Sales Manager for Chimento, also believes future generations. Expect bright gems, diamond pavés and
in accessibility with the introduction of its new CHOICE collection in sun/fire motifs to accompany this trend.
silver, aimed at a younger crowd with less disposable income. “In 2008,
we had fewer sales, it was obviously not going well for everyone. But in Exotic Wonder
2009, we focused on market share and getting the word out there, getting Summarized as “fascinating though unfamiliar.” Blends with
our pieces out there,” with the U.S. and Americas as the second most powerful tribal and traditional references come into the
important market on their agenda. By far, this show’s success story has mix. Expect wooden elements with circular constructions,
to be Lui-Jo. With a huge following in Italy, the brand has now opened accompanied by silver and exotic pearls.
up to foreign markets in Holland, Belgium and Dubai, with Canada
and the U.S. on the horizon. What makes their story exciting is that the Vintage Eternal
company has increased sales dramatically in two years, and is forecasted Originally a term to replace the word “old”, vintage has been a
to sell 7,000,000 over Christmas, up from 800,000 in 2007. Last year, hot topic in design and culture for the last decade, influencing
the company sold 3,000,000, so it’s evident that its philosophy of selling everything from music to fashion. With old Victorian references,
in speciality boutiques with a wide range of materials and styles for both and 1920s ornate jewels, expect a strong influence from
men and women is clearly working for them. technological innovations and creativity to take what’s old and
make it new again.
What’s Next?
The Choice show was no doubt a resounding success as final numbers Synchronicity
are promising. At a moment when Italy’s gold sector is in question, there This trend draws on the use of music, video and lighting to
was a 28% increase in the number of buyers compared to the September create performance art to express mental states and the
2008 show, with a total of 13,670: 9,413 Italian and 4,257 from abroad. “hallucinations of the web generation.” Borrowed from the 1912
“We are satisfied with the result,” noted Girardi, “a figure which should American art movement, this term “summarizes the research
be analyzed in depth, bearing in mind that the operators at the autumn into aesthetic and culture harmony associated with music.”
fair traditionally come from Italy, in particular, and Europe in general:
these are the markets that order quantities ahead of the end-of-year For the moment, there is naturally a heavy influence in gold
festivities. Compared with Choice 2008, the European countries with coming out of Italy. As a main metal used, gold represents about
the highest number of operators include Spain (with a 7.4% increase), 80% of what was shown in various collections. There was also
France (at 43%) and Germany (at 9.74%). The Greek presence was also a lot of emphasis placed on silver collections, as it’s the most
highly significant.” affordable and accessible metal now to bring in new consumers
that will one day be able to afford other collections. Another big
So it would seem that the City of Gold can rest assured it will stay on top trend was jewellery for children, fun and playful. Italy has always
of the jewellery market for the time being. There are a lot of interesting had a very high-fashion drive, mixing elements of fine jewellery
things coming out of Italy at the moment, from new designers to new with elements of fashion jewellery, but in high-quality and
initiatives, and the best is yet to come, but only time will tell. Stay tuned, precious materials. Big chunky necklaces in brushed gold came
Vicenzaoro First will debut on January 16, 2010 and guarantees to build from Nanis while over-the-top chains and rings were big sellers
on the strength, growth and creativity of, as the Italians would say, for Hong Kong and Emirates regions from Marco Bicego.
gioiello Italiano. [CJ]

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m november 2009 CJ 73

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Fall Forward
As we enter a new season, we look at the trends
that will set the tone for the months ahead.

The end of summer brought out young, beautiful Hollywood stars sizzling
in some of the newest trends in jewellery design. While stars sipped on
bikini-body friendly cocktails, there was nothing low-calorie about their
bling. From fancy coloured diamonds to pink sapphires, jewels sparkled
and dazzled in the sizzling setting sun.

Dexter star Julie Benz chose a pair of platinum

and diamond flower drop earrings to wear at the
15th Annual Screen Actors Guild Awards in Los
Angeles. The earrings (valued at US $30,000)
revealed 2.10 carats of white diamonds and 30
carats of black diamonds. Kristen Bell

Kristen Bell is a girl about town lately —

on small and big screens, as well at all of
the hottest events. For the 35th Annual
Saturn Awards in Los Angeles, the star
donned a Le Vian chocolate and white
pavé diamond domed ring set in 14k
Julie Benz yellow gold valued at US $6,248.

74 CJ NOVEMBER 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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Though she isn’t considered a youth anymore, Demi

Moore continues to look amazing, maybe even better
than decades ago. At the premiere of her hubbie
Ashton Kutcher’s movie Spread in Hollywood,
ever magazine

The inspiration of fashion jewellery ®

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Evan Rachel Wood dazzled at the

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w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m NOVEMBER 2009 CJ 75

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76 CJ november 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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At: www.refinegold.ca
and www.goldrefiner.ca
Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You Refine
Tel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371
359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9
Web:www.refinegold.ca www.goldrefiner.ca E-mail: info@refineallmetals.com

Lacy & Company Ltd. Established 1927 Revolution.

Introducing the new canadianjeweller.com
Quality tools for Quality Results ~ The Complete Jewellers Supply House
Agent for Neutec Laser Welders ~ Casting Systems, Umarq Engravers, Durston,
It’s all about you.
Elma, European Hand Tools, Busch Burs, Castaldo, Kerr, Foredom, Grobet USA Read current and past issues online. Listen to articles and podcasts.
Ask about the Jewellers Advantage ! Find it on our 50,000 item Buyers Guide. Discuss & debate
416-365-1375 1-800-387-4466 sales@ lacytools.ca on our Forums. Source & Share in our retailer-only space.
Get published.

Shop CNC Gold

On-Line Refining Inc
Dealers and refiners of Precious Metal Scrap
While You Wait-Immediate Settlements
9999 Check our State of the art Jewellery Alloys
Check Our site for the up-to-date Buy and Sale Prices w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m november 2009 CJ 83
At: WWW.goldrefiner.ca
Let Us EarnYour Confidence. Call us Before You Refine
27 Queen Street, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario, M5C 2M6
106-112.CJ_Showcase-Market_NOV.indd 83 11/2/09 1:34:48 PM
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact:
Sarah Perkin 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, sarah@rivegauchemedia.com or Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.


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Jewellery Retailers...
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PLUS: Bijoute
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You’ve probably noticed a change in Canadian Jeweller covers the

past few issues, as they’ve featured some of the top retailers in
the industry. We’re always looking for new businesses to shine a
spotlight on, so if you’re interested, we’d love to hear from you.

To have your store grace the cover of an upcoming CJ, and to

expose your business to a whole new audience, make sure to send
an email request to paul@rivegauchemedia.com

A D V E R T I S I N G GBA marketing class.:Layout 1 3/24/09 2:35 PM Page 1
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please
contact: Sarah Perkin 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, sarah@rivegauchemedia.com or Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

Successful, independent jewellery store for sale in
beautiful downtown Kelowna. Recently renovated
showroom and goldsmith shop. Service oriented, looking for a motivated individual for sales EXPERIENCE. WORK WITH ALL METALS. FRANCHISE!
excellent reputation with established clientele. Will and bench work on a full time basis. We would LOOKING FOR FULL TIME WORK. CALL
assist with transition. Owners retiring. Contact like you to have good communication skills FERNANDO 416-748-1823. World’s Largest Jewellery
jasongoldsmiths@telus.net or Jerry 250-717-2195.
and a solid general knowledge of jewellery. We and Watch Repair
prefer a candidate familiar with basic jewellery Franchise is Looking to
AGENTS/REPS WANTED making, like repairs, to spend some time at the Bogart's Jewellers is seeking a Goldsmith, in
Seeking well established Sales Reps for bench. We offer a great working environment to St. John's, NL. Jewellery repair experience is
Expand in a Mall Near You.
Southwestern, Central, Northwest and Northeastern encourage a long term commitment from you. required. Salary is negotiable. Resumes can be Make money for yourself and
Ontario who are looking to add to existing lines a Wages and benefits will reflect your experience. forwarded to Richard Rooney or Gina Butt at take control of your future!
medium to high-end fashion jewellery line. Please Please contact us directly at francis@shawbiz.
forward resume via fax 416-667-8671 or by email to headoffice@bogartsjewellers.com or faxed to
ca or by phone at 250-858-7611. • High Traffic Locations
s.thomas@artisticjewellery.com 709-739-5210. Or contact us at 709-739-5073.
• Extremely High Gross Margins
• Low Inventory Costs
Successful family owned business since 1951.
B U Y I N G North American distributor looking for agent(s)
in major urban areas. previous experience in
• 25 Year Proven Record
Owner retiring. 1250 sq ft. Modern downtown
• Full Training, No Exp Nec.
BROKEN/CHIPPED DIAMONDS jewellery & watches required. Ability to manage
building and fixtures. Turn Key $175,000 complete. sales programs and sales campaigns. Integrity,
CENSOR – SINCE 1917 organization, process and communication skills.
Inventory separate. Wallaceburg (between Chatham WE THRIVE IN ANY ECONOMY!
212-764-7130 IMMEDIATE PAYMENT! Competitive market commission. Send your
and Sarnia) 519-627-5781, 519-436-7229. resume to lab1206@gmail.com. (800) 359-0407

84 CJ NOVEMBER 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

106-112.CJ_Showcase-Market_NOV.indd 84 11/2/09 1:36:43 PM

PAGE GET FREE INFORMATION! on any product advertised in this issue

2. Use this quick

BY FAX 1. See product you reference list 3. Write the 4. Mail or fax us at 5. Receive free info
want info on below to find its number(s) on 1-888-849-0155 direct from as
OR MAIL free info number the attached free or 416-703-6392 many advertisers
(it’s also on the ad) info card as you like

CONNECT WITH… page write # CONNECT WITH… page write #

Stuller 2 101 Five Star Gold 29 119

Sapir Diamonds 3 103 Nova Diamonds 31 120

UBM Asia Ltd. 4 104 Vianna Brasil 39 121

Pandora 5 105 Jomark 87 123

O’Neill Diamonds 6 106 Mirage Creations 88 124

GS Laboratories 7 107 Butterfly Gems 18 125

JSN Jewellery 8 108 Jomark 18 126

JSN Jewellery 9 108 Nova Diamonds 18 127

Butterfly Gems 11 109 Siffari 18 128

The Whole Media AG 13 110 JSN Jewellery 20 129

Gee ‘n Gee Importers 15 111 Atlantic Engraving 20 130

Hong Kong Trade Development Council 17 112 Stuller 20 131

Atlantic Engravings 19 113 Baselworld 20 132

Five Star Diamonds 23 114 Vianna Brasil 21 133

Sanghavi Diamonds 25 115 Gee ‘n Gee Importers 21 134

CGTA - Living and Giving with Style 27 116 GS Laboratories 21 135

Rousseau Chain Imports 28 117 Pandora 21 136

MCD Pearls 28 118

 Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine
Info Card & Subscription
To receive free information you must print clearly and fill out form completely.

STEP 2 To qualify, check circles:

 No, don’t send
Selling area of your store
 under 1,000 sq.ft.  1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft.
Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________ Which category best describes your  3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft.  over 5,000 sq.ft.
business classification?
Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________  Education
Approximate annual sales volume
 under $500,000
 Retailer
Company Name: ___________________________________________________________  Manufacturer
 $500,000 - $1 million
 $1 million - $5 million
 Wholesaler
Address: _________________________________________________________________  $5 million - $10 million
 Importer
 $10 million - $20 million
 Designer
City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________  over $20 million
 Services (repair, appraisals, etc.)
Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________  Other: ________________________________ Categories you personally manage
 Retailer  Designer
Number of employees at your location
Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________  1-3  4-8  9-12  over 13  Gemologist  Supplier
 Manufacturer
Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________ Number of locations: ______________________  Other _________________________________

STEP 3 Reserved exclusively for retailers




Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m NOVEMBER 2009 CJ 85

089.CJ_FaxBack.indd 85 11/2/09 12:56:18 PM


Actress Peggy Joyce once said:

“ It takes all the fun out of a bracelet

if you have to buy it yourself. ”
Affordable is in — so have some fun and treat yourself… and everyone else for that matter. If recent shows and shifts within the industry are any indication, silver is all the rage
from runway to showcase. With over 25 years in the business, Winnipeg-based designer Hilary Druxman releases Collection 52, her newest offerings for fall that fit perfectly
within the silver craze. Our favourite? This hand-crafted sterling silver multi-chain bracelet on a sleek slide clasp. Perfect for any occasion, any outfit and any woman.
Valued at $280.
– Paul Aguirre

86 CJ november 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

090.CJ_LastWord_re.indd 86 10/28/09 3:50:46 PM

For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 85

CJ_Nov09_Jomark_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 2:59:39 PM

Mirage Creations Inc.
221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4
Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677
www.miragecreations.com e-mail: info@miragecreations.com

For details, write #124 on Free Info Page, page 85

CJ.Nov09_Mirage_Ad.indd 1 10/29/09 3:02:08 PM

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