Canadian Jeweller Magazine AprilMay 2009

A P R I L / M AY 2 0 0 9
over125 years
in the business of
retailing jewellery
canadian jeweller
magazine
www.canadianjeweller.com Exclusive:
A discussion with Ontario’s
Diamond Sector Unit
Selling Permanence
The enduring value of gold
Sparkle and Shine

AGTA Spectrum Award winners
discuss gemstone trends
A Super
PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40678000 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M4W 3B8
Timeless
What’s old is new
Strategy
again in watches
First Impressions
Creating winning
window displays Frank Damiani of Damiani Jewellers
PLUS:
ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS
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For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 74.
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088-089.CJ_Ed Board.qxd:Layout 1 3/25/09 5:29 PM Page 88
Canadian Jeweller’s Buyers’ Guide is Moving

Look for it in our September issue.
Since its inception, the Canadian Jeweller Buyers’ Guide has become an invaluable source of information for
industry members across the country. The 2010 Buyers’ Guide will soon be here, which means it’s time for
you to get your company noticed.
2010
Buyers’
Guide
For all advertising information

please email: sales@rivegauchemedia.com
Phone: 1-888-358-8186
Registration closes July 27, 2009.
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N
Coverage
O
W
IN
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you can count on.
EC
“I insure with Jewelers Mutual to
protect what I love. Jewelers Mutual
insures only jewellery and jewellery
businesses, so they understand my
insurance needs better than anyone.”
People
you can count on.
“My dad started this business more
than 50 years ago and always said that
being a jeweller is a privilege because
we are in the business of helping
people celebrate their special occasions.
Jewelers Mutual is there to help make
sure we continue to do just that.”
— Frank Damiani
Damiani Jewellers, Ltd.
Woodbridge, Ontario
800-558-6411 • www.jewelersmutual.com
YourInsuranceExpert@jminsure.com
Frank Damiani, owner of
Damiani Jewellers, Ltd. Jewelers Mutual is proud to pay Jewellers Vigilance
Woodbridge, Ontario Canada membership fees for insureds in Canada.
E N D O R S E D E X C L U S I V E LY B Y
007.CJ Jewelers Mutual Mar23.indd 1 3/25/09 5:07:29 PM

Established 1879 april/May 2009 • vol. 130, no. 2
Olivier Felicio President, Publisher | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com
Bryan Soroka Director, Editorial & Communications | bryan@rivegauchemedia.com

Nikki Yeh Associate Editor | nikki@rivegauchemedia.com
Paul Aguirre Editorial Assistant | paul@rivegauchemedia.com
Scott Jordan Art Director | design@rivegauchemedia.com

Leslie Ross Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com
Christine Ager-Smyth Production Manager | production@rivegauchemedia.com
Melanie Seth Accounting and Administration | finance@rivegauchemedia.com
CONTRIBUTORS Davide Bagnarol, Glen Beres, Philip Feder,

Robin Gambhir, Sarah B. Hood, Daniel Marquez,
Duncan Parker, Bonnie Siegler, Mireille Theriault
sales
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Change of Address
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Published by Rive Gauche Media II Inc.
Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 141550 The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any
and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints
in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No
portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited
submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or
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For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 74 8 CJ april/may 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
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table of
Contents
April/May
Features
30

Precious Things Grow in Ontario
The emergence of Ontario’s diamond industry.
52
32 Timeless
Watch trends continue to be reinvented
in line with the economy.
46 A Super Strategy
An interview with Damiani Jewellers’ Frank Damiani.
52 Selling Permanence
Gold is opulent, desired and set to withstand
the trails of time.
56 First Impressions
How to create winning window displays.
60 Sparkle and Shine

A review of gemstone trends emerging from
the AGTA Spectrum Awards.
46
60
10 CJ april/may 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
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table of
Contents
April/May
Departments
14

Director’s Note
42
16 Product Showcase
20 Who’s News
Stuller announces leadership shuffle; supermodel
donates timepiece; OMEGA celebrates Vancouver 2010.
22 For The Record 68 Star Watch

De Beers launches Forevermark; Zales closes 115 Stunning pieces adorn music glitterati this
stores; Swarovski makes Oscars sparkle; Harry Winston award season.
opens Dubai boutique.
70 Editorial Board
27 Stock Index

74 Fax Back
28 Mining News

Canadian Chamber launches mining network;
Rio Tinto announces earnings increase.
76 Showcase

36 Face Value 78 Marketplace
Vintage jewellery is making its way out of hiding

and onto the market.
82 Last Word
38 Market Watch
Examining the coloured gem trends to meet
68
your store’s needs.
42 Company Profile
Mirage Creations.
64 Designer Profile
Raana Ferdows.
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LIFE HAS ITS MOMENTS...
...MAKE THEM UNFORGETTABLE
Collect, combine and create your own unique expression. LovePods is a new collection of jewelry made from 18K gold enhanced with genuine gemstones.
PANDORA-JEWELRY.COM
Solid gold, sterling silver, and precious stones • U.S. Pat. No. 7,007,507 • © • All rights reserved
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director’snote
Attention All
Shoppers!
What is the difference between a shopper and customer? In marketing-
speak, a shopper is defined as a person who is engaged in the act of,
oddly enough, shopping. These are the fresh faces that look through
your brochures, visit your website, and, if their interest is properly
piqued, move on to scrutinize your displays and showcases for the
Photo: Davide Bagnoral
very first time. Customers, meanwhile, are those valued individuals

who have made repeat purchases at your store (and hopefully intend
to keep up with the tradition). During economic unrest, many
retailers tend to focus on drumming up new business. However, when
financial times get tough, your efforts are better served by developing
a solid strategy that is intended to retain the loyalty of the customers
you already have.
A key factor in keeping your customers is providing them with that
in-store experience they cannot get anywhere else. This is achieved
primarily through service, merchandising mix, branding and some
other intangibles that unite to create the “feeling” they get when they
walk through your door.
So what are your customers experiencing? The best way to find
out is to simply ask them. Most won’t be shy about telling you what
they love about your store, and with a little prodding, you can get
them to express what needs improvement as well. Once you’ve got a
solid understanding of all that, you’ll be prepared to take the next step,
which is shifting focus once again as you conceive of a plan to convert
those shoppers into customers.
To your success,
Bryan Soroka
Bryan Soroka
Director, Editorial & Communications
14 CJ APRIL/MAY 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
014.CJ_Directors.indd 14 3/25/09 3:56:12 PM

The heart & soul
of wedding bands
1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Quebec H3A-2G4
Tel. 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257 - E-mail: atlanticeng@bellnet.ca
000.CJ. Atlantic Engraving.indd 1 3/25/09 5:32:27 PM

productshowcase
LovePods Collection Sparkles

The PANDORA LovePods collection introduces a
decadent new range of fine jewellery made from 18K
gold, enhanced with coloured gemstones. LovePods is
a series of beautifully-created rings, earrings, bracelets
and necklaces. The Danish company’s collection
lets consumers combine, unfold and bloom as they
create an expression that is effortlessly unique. For more
information, write 111 on the Free Info Card on page 74.
Selling with Security

Keep your profits from walking out the door! Jewelers
Mutual’s online security course, Selling with Security,
demonstrates how retail store associates can incorporate
three basic security habits into their selling techniques;
key habits worth learning. The course will cover the
topics: “Meet and Greet;” “One on One;” and “Turn
the Key” — all designed to help reduce retail losses at
your store. Register online with Jewelers Mutual or call
800-558-6411. For more information, write 112 on the
Free Info Card on page 74.
The Bouquet of Love

The astonishing new floral collection by Nova Diamonds
represents the blooming relationships between partners
in love. With a total of 3.09 carats set in the flower ring,
and 6.15 carats in the earrings, all Nova jewellery is set
in 18-karat gold, and finished to the highest level of
handcrafted workmanship possible. Nova Diamonds
specializes in a vast array of loose stones and high-end
finished jewellery, as well as custom pieces to make any
occasion shine. For more information, write 113 on the
Free Info Card on page 74.
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productshowcase
Diamond Hoops Set the Trend

This Diamond Hoop is a stunning testament to Mirage
Creations’ new hallmark: “Exceptional Jewellery.” The Mirage
diamond hoop collection covers a wide range of styles and
carat weights. Basic models start at just 0.25ctw. There’s also
optimal customization available to customers, as special orders
can be realized and created from concept to delivery in under
two weeks. All items are individually made from original
resins to achieve a high-quality finish. For more information,
write 115 on the Free Info Card on page 74.
A Ring is Forever
For half a century, Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has been an
industry leader. As a third generation jeweller, the brand
has taken the ultimate symbol of commitment beyond the
wedding band and classic eternity ring. Featuring decadent
coloured metals with unique finishes, an Atlantic ring is an
expression of individuality and love. Each ring produced at
Atlantic is made of seamless tubing and is cut with diamond
tipped tools on the highest state-of-the-art European
machinery. For that extra special touch, no ring leaves
the factory without extensive quality control. For more
information, write 116 on the Free Info Card on page 74.
GIA Reports and Grading Systems

GIA offers a suite of support tools designed to assist
retailers in communicating the 4Cs: the International
Diamond Grading System and the value of GIA Diamond
Grading Reports. A report from GIA provides an expert
analysis of the quality of a diamond based upon the “4Cs”
of diamond grading — colour, cut, clarity, and carat
weight. The report also includes a plotting diagram, which
depicts the diamond’s unique clarity characteristics, such
as inclusions. In addition, since GIA is not affiliated
with any commercial enterprise, the public is assured
the world’s most impartial and accurate analysis of a
diamond. For more information, write 117 on the Free
Info Card on page 74.
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andrewrobertsdesign.com
pour homme ZPVWFFBSOFEJU
We proudly introduce Pour Homme, our new

Mens Line - a collection of over 45 unique styles.
Each design is inspired by the virtues of strength,
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The men’s
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white and yellow gold. Some of these new styles
feature two tone white and 19k rose gold in a
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Our jewellery is hand crafted with the upmost

regard to quality. As well, our diamonds are
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For more than three decades we have striven to

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4.75 CT
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Find out who is
making headlines in
the jewellery industry.
Supermodel Donates Timepiece to
Aspen Nonprofits
Aspen Jewelry and Watches recently promoted an
aggressive and anticipated three-day worldwide
launch of Aspen One, its first luxury timepiece. Jim Leng resigns from Rio Tinto
The limited edition Swiss-made timepiece retails Rio Tinto has announced that Jim Leng, a
for US$38,900, and is said to pay tribute to non-executive Director, has resigned from the
Aspen’s rich heritage and pay homage to Aspen Boards with immediate effect and will therefore
Mountain. To mark the occasion, a gala launch not take up the post of Chairman of the Boards
was held at The Aspen Mountain Club where the in April as previously planned. As a result, Rio
Company honoured model and entrepreneur Tinto’s current Chairman, Paul Skinner, has
Elle Macpherson with the diamond version of agreed to remain as Chairman until mid-2009,
Aspen One, retailing at US$49,900. In return, by which time it is anticipated that a successor
Elle presented the watch as a donation to will be appointed. The process to appoint a
representatives of two area nonprofits: Challenge new Chairman is currently underway.
Aspen and Aspen Valley Ski and Snowboard Club.
“The proceeds from this watch will scholarship Fred Signs Kate Moss to Star
more than 50 families with disabilities to enjoy Lindsay Morrison in Next Campaign
Challenge Aspen’s winter and summer programs. Fred, the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-
Elle and Rene [van Ass, CEO of Aspen Jewelry and TIG Welcomes New owned jewellery brand, has singed supermodel
Watches] have truly helped us take the ‘Dis out of Marketing Coordinator Kate Moss to appear alongside current
Disability’ for some very special young people,” TIG, sister company to Suberi Brothers, is spokesperson Melvil Poupaud, a rising French
noted representatives from the organization. happy to welcome Lindsay Morrison as their actor, modelling the brand’s top-selling “Force
Another watch will be given to the Quality of new Marketing Coordinator. Ms. Morrison 10” collection. The campaign was shot by famed
Life Foundation, based in the Netherlands, which will develop and manage all aspects of TIG’s photographer Patrick Demarchelier in Paris last
has already raised more than $10 million for marketing program for its Aimée, Noor, November, each appearing in separate shots. In a
children’s cancer research. The new timepiece has and Diamond Sensations lines. This will new twist, the duo will also model pieces from the
a multitude of design features that represent the also include all branding and advertising house’s fine jewellery line, a first for Fred. Moss
region including a specially-designed compass that initiatives, as well as the company’s replaces Parisian actress Audrey Marnay. The new
shows a skier’s position on Aspen Mountain, and customer outreach programs. Steve Turac, ads are set to debut in April in Fred’s core markets,
is offered in four-colour combinations of 18 kt Managing Director notes, “We’re very especially Europe, Asia and the Middle East, and
white or rose gold. excited to welcome Lindsay onboard as our in a range of outlets in France.
first in-house marketing hire. I truly believe
that the road to success depends on the
application of strong marketing techniques
to build the brand equity of our business.
Our goal is to grow our brands whereby
we become more sought after in the eyes
of the consumer.” Lindsay’s experience
is impressive, as she has worked with
household names such as renowned chef
Jamie Oliver and Cadbury Schweppes. She
notes that she hopes to help expand TIG’s
brand presence in the market with a well-
executed and innovative marketing plan.
TIG is based out of Montreal and carries
four different lines of branded diamond
jewellery including; Aimée, Noor, Diamond
Elle Macpherson an
d Rene van Ass Sensations and Gabrielle.
Kate Moss
020-021.CJ_WhosNews_re.indd 20 3/25/09 4:20:08 PM

who’snews
who’s
OMEGA
Limited
Diver 30 Edition
0m Van Seamast
couver 2 er
010 watc
h.
Jr, Jacques Rogge.
hen Urquhart, Nick Hayek
From left John Furlong, Step
Stuller Announces Leadership Changes
OMEGA Celebrates One Year Stuller, Inc. has recently announced new leadership
to Vancouver 2010 changes in response to the planned retirement of
OMEGA president Stephen Urquhart was Dr. Charles D. “Chuck” Lein, President and Chief
recently at a ceremony to mark one year to go Operating Officer (COO), effective at the end of
in the countdown to the opening ceremony of January. The company executive management team
the Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympic Games as will restructure Dr. Lein’s function into two separate
the Company will be serving as Official Olympic positions: Jay Jackson, Stuller’s current executive
Timekeeper for the 24th time. He was joined by Vice President of Supply Chain, will assume the role
Swatchgroup CEO Nick Hayek Jr., International of COO, and Matthew Stuller will return to daily
Olympic Committee President Jacques Rogge and activities and temporarily assume the role of President.
John Furlong, CEO of the Vancouver Organizing Jackson has more than 13 years of experience with
Committee for the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Stuller and previously enjoyed a 30-year career at Sears
Winter Games (VANOC). The event was complete in its product services division. “With this transition
with an OMEGA Countdown Clock that reached in key leadership roles, we are positioned to maintain
exactly 365 days, 0 hours, 0 minutes and 0 seconds our aggressive growth strategies,” says Stuller. “We will
before event goers cheered in anticipation. Mr. always be the fastest, most reliable supplier of high- Matthew Stuller
Rogge notes that OMEGA has been pivotal in the quality, value-added products and business solutions
development of sports timekeeping. Mr. Hayek for the jewellery industry.”
also presented John Furlong with a ceremonial
version of the Olympic bell that is used to
announce the final lap in long competitions.
OMEGA has also released two special limited
edition watches to commemorate the milestone.
The OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300m “Vancouver
2010” Limited Edition is being produced in
41mm and 36.25mm versions, each in a release of
numbered pieces and featuring the OMEGA Co-
Axial calibre 2500. The caseback is embossed with
the Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympic Games logo,
which features ‘Ilanaak,’ the symbol of the Games,
and engraved with the Limited Edition number,
which is limited to only 2,010 pieces globally and
available now for $4,500 across Canada.
Jay Jackson Dr. Charles Lein
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m APRIL/MAY 2009 CJ 21
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news | trends | events
Psalm 23 Jewelry Partners with JCK Vegas Has New Confidence providing the best platform for the global
Non-Profit for Growing Retail Network Organizers of the upcoming JCK Las Vegas show jewellery industry to do so.”
Psalm 23 Jewelry has teamed up with a local in May have announced new initiatives aimed There’s also an educational component from
non-profit organization, OPARC, to assemble at assisting with exhibitor costs, and making May 28 and 29 addressing business topics to
and package their pieces by the well-trained it easier for retailers to purchase products. In help retailers adapt their businesses, including
staff from the organization. OPARC’s mission addition to these initiatives, the organization has how to recession-proof investment strategies and
is to enable people with disabilities to achieve invested money and resources to host more than building brand awareness while improving sales.
their full potential. This partnership comes 1,500 “VIP” buyers. Organizers have also started
after Psalm 23 Jewelry’s expansion to bracelets, a loyalty program, issuing merchandise credits GIA India Holds Bangalore Course
necklaces, pendants, earrings and rings and the of up to $1,000 per store for retailers who attend The Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
simultaneous growth of a national retail network each year. JCK also debuted a new website to recently announced a project in collaboration
that created a need for a larger staff, which could allow manufacturers to upload up to 500 images with the South India Jewellery Show 2009 (SIJS)
handle larger quantities in a timely manner. of their product lines, enabling buyers to plan to offer seminars and a special, one-time course
“We are blessed to have formed a relationship spending priorities and interests by preview for its Accredited Jewelry Professional (AJP)
with OPARC. Our relationship with them has products ahead of time. diploma for the first time. The course will take
enabled us to provide adults with disabilities and “This year in particular, we are looking to place over March 23 to 27 in Bangalore at the
vocational barriers with additional employment make the decision to come to JCK an easy one,” Hotel Grand Ashoka. According to Nirupa
opportunities in the areas of jewellery assembly commented Yancy Weinrich, Industry Bhatt of GIA India, a key objective is to increase
and packaging,” noted Laura Kramer, President of Vice President for JCK Events. “We know that educational courses in gem and jewellery
Psalm 23. Original plans to outsource to foreign making the commitment to come can be a manufacturing to other regions of the world
countries and outlying areas were decided against complex decision and our goal is to eliminate as where they can be equally important and useful.
in favour of OPARC’s ability to locally produce many concerns as possible. Now more than ever, The course will be an intensive five-day program
the Sterling Silver and Swarovski crystal we want to encourage the industry to utilize its with simple and short modules designed to build
jewellery and the corporation’s dedication to collective wisdom to ensure future success. product knowledge while increasing business
be able to give back to their local community. The JCK Show in Las Vegas intends on with proven retail sales techniques.
Forevermark Sees Hong Kong Launch of Precious Collection

Forevermark, a diamond brand from the De Beers Group, has unveiled the
Forevermark Precious Collection in its worldwide debut in Hong Kong. The unique
collection offers designs from legendary names such as supermodel Alek Wek,
graphic designer Alan Chan, fashion modernist Limi Yamamoto, Oscars jewellery
designer Mona Mehta and couturier Tarun Tahiliani. The Forevermark Precious
Collection showcases each contributor’s personal interpretation of “Precious”
using Forevermark diamonds or in words. The collection shows impressive range
from traditional cascades of diamonds and delicate Asian calligraphy through to
pop art and urban ‘rock-chic’ styles.
“Behind every Forevermark diamond is a precious story. Since the beginning
of time, diamonds have inspired countless myths, tales and legends. In today’s
world, this may be a story of personal celebration, love pledged, a commitment
made, the arrival of a child into the world, an anniversary, enduring love or
a triumph at work. Whatever the story, it will be one that is always intensely
personal and always unique — no two stories are the same; just as no two
Forevermark,” noted Francois Delage, CEO of Forevermark.
Only a select group of Master Diamantaires are eligible to cut and polish
Forevermark diamonds. Every Forevermark diamond is said to be responsibly
sourced and over and above the 4Cs. Following its tour of Hong Kong, the
collection will exhibit in Beijing and Tokyo later this year.
022-027.CJ_FTR_re.indd 22 3/25/09 4:36:34 PM

fortherecord
Zales Jewelers Announces in April featuring musical artist Christina offers pieces ranging from the Harry
Store Closures Aguilera, who was the face of the Spring 2008 Winston Avenue collection to diamond
Zale Corp., a major retailer in U.S. and campaign. As CJ previous reported, Stephen jewellery watches. This spring, the boutique
Canadian malls with outlets like Peoples Webster is currently working on a new women’s will also carry a greater variety of Harry
Jewellers and Mappins Jewellers, has announced and men’s collection for Garrard to be launched Winston collections, including the classic
the closure of 115 stores at the end of their as a “guest designer” at the end of the year. Winston Cluster, Sunflower, and Loop.
current leases and 245 job cuts in a drastic “Harry Winston salons are located in the
cost-reduction plan. The Company also Harry Winston Opens Watch world’s finest shopping destinations. We
announced Q2 revenues, citing an 18% drop Boutique in Dubai are delighted to showcase Harry Winston’s
in revenue, and will cut capital spending by Harry Winston recently opened its first exquisite collections in such an outstanding
65% going forward. Furthermore, the jeweller watch boutique in Dubai. Located at the setting,” said Thomas J. O’Neill, CEO of
plans to reduce its debt by $40 million by fiscal newly opened Atlantis Hotel, the boutique Harry Winston.
year end in July. It also noted that the addition
of Canadian and Puerto Rican assets give the
Company flexibility and sufficient liquidity.
In Q2, the Company posted a net loss of $0.74
per share with quarterly sales falling 17.9% to
$679.4 million, with same-store earnings down
18.1%. The Company stated it will continue its
focus on financial thoroughness and liquidity
during the current economic environment.
With inventory productivity a priority,
merchandise inventories at January 31, 2009
were approximately $100 million lower than
the prior year.
Rio Tinto Donates to the Australian

Bushfires and Floods
Rio Tinto Australia made an immediate The Day&Night Spiral . Titanic-DNA rusted steel T-oxy III Skeleton
contribution to the Victorian bushfire appeal Chronograph Tourbillon.
of $100,000 on Monday, February 9, 2009, two
days after news broke of the Australian crises. Romain Jerome Develops New Day&Night Line
The Group increased its donation shortly and Titanic-inspired Timepieces
thereafter to a total of $500,000. In addition, The Day&Night concept, a timepiece that does not tell the time, proved to
Rio Tinto Alcan and Rio Tinto Coal Australia be quite the success as Romain Jerome has developed a new limited edition
have, between them, committed $250,000 to of nine timepieces with hands. Day&Night, launched at Baselworld in 2008,
the Queensland flood appeal. brought a new system of time measurement based on the sequential operation
of two Tourbillons that divided the temporal world into two segments: day
Stephen Webster’s versus night. The new edition of Day&Night called the Spiral, changes tack
Aggressive 2009 Plan and symbolizes time by a spiral applied on its dial. It has a steel and titanium
Stephen Webster Ltd., the luxury jewellery case with 46mm diameter. The strap is also full Hornback crocodile leather,
brand based in the UK, has revealed an and the bezel uses stabilized oxidized steel from the Titanic, and comes with
aggressive expansion and advertising plan a notarized certificate to authenticate the origin of the materials used.
for 2009. A cornerstone of this new plan is the The Company also recently introduced a skeleton high-end timepiece
grand opening of a flagship store in London’s interpretation of the chronograph Tourbillon as part of the Titanic-DNA
prestigious Mayfair district, set for a May collection using the same reclaimed materials from the wreckage. The
launch. The store is set to replace the existing collection offers timepieces inspired and created in tribute to the Titanic.
Duke Street boutique and will retail both The Titanic-DNA rusted steel T-oxy III Skeleton Chronograph Tourbillon
fine and silver jewellery collections for men has a diameter of 50mm-53mm including the screw-in crown — it features
and women. The store is also said to reflect interchangeable horns and a push button. The skeleton dial is integrating
Webster’s design aesthetic: glamorous and various material (brass, black or, steel, pink gold 5N) mixing mat velvet finish,
opulent with a hint of ‘rock and roll glamour.’ satin and shot-blasted finish for the Roman numeral XII. The Tourbillon carriage
To coincide with the opening, the Company and the chronometry engine are magnified by the use of pink gold 5N.
will also launch a new advertising campaign
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m april/may 2009 CJ 23
022-027.CJ_FTR_re.indd 23 3/25/09 4:36:40 PM

GIA Launches New Online Accredited Economicand Social Council (ECOSOC) in is America’s oldest association for independent
Jewellery Professional Program New York. CIBJO is the international jewellery jewellery representatives with over 50 years of
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) industry’s only official representative within show experience. “I feel privileged to take part
has unveiled a new multimedia format for ECOSOC and the United Nations. WJCEF in this major international industry event,”
its distance learning courses in gemology is described as a joint initiative of CIBJO says Stuller. “Similar to our business, SJTA
and jewellery sales. GIA is offering this new together and the United Nations to promote is built on not only helping retail jewellers
education technology, known as “eLearning,” the principles of corporate social responsibility shape their stores but also serving as a valuable
to students effective immediately for its and ethics throughout the jewellery and resource in challenging times.” Each year, the
Accredited Jewelry Professional (AJP) gemstone industries. The program also aims bi-annual Atlanta Jewelry Show welcomes
diploma program. The course features video to support grassroots jewellery business jewellers from all over the country with over
for hands-on demonstrations, interviews initiatives that enhance sustainable economic 800 booths on display, allowing independent
with experts, instructor lectures and and social development. A team of experts is jewellers to sit down with sales reps in a
“see it for yourself ” segments. It uses voice putting the final touches to an educational relaxed environment, priding itself on the
capabilities to give proper pronunciation programme that will provide training on show’s “Southern Hospitality.”
and explanations from specialists. According a worldwide basis based on individual
to the GIA, this new course takes advantage economic situations. Delays for GEMTEC
of the latest Web-based applications to GEMTEC - Trade Fair for Jewellery and
create a multifaceted learning experience SJTA Spring Show in Georgia Gemstone Technology, which was initially
that integrates text and images with video, The Southern Jewelry Travelers Association planned to open in June 2009 has been
audio, slideshows, animations and interviews. (SJTA) Show held their annual spring show in postponed due to delays in the completion
Interested applicants can view an in-depth Atlanta, Georgia from February 28 to March of the new exhibition hall because of the
demonstration on the GIA’s website. 2, with Matthew Stuller, CEO of Stuller Inc., extreme weather conditions in December
as a featured guest at an educational forum and January.
CIBJO Presents the World Jewellery about staying relevant and ahead of the retail Organizers have also revealed the new
Confederation Educational Foundation game in 2009. The roundtable of panelists technology fair GEMTEC will go ahead as
CIBJO President Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri included such industry greats as David Peters, numerous companies, including industry
has announced the newly established Jewelers of America; Doug Kerns, Gemvision; leaders, indicated interest in exhibiting.
World Jewellery Confederation Educational Linus Drogs, AU Enterprises/Palladium This comes off the success of the previous
Foundation (WJCEF), at the annual meeting Alliance International and Terry Chandler, technology forum and it is slated again for
of the NGO Committee of the United Nation’s Diamond Council of America. The Association INTERGEM 2009 where visitors can see the
latest generation of jewellery and gemstone
technology. The GEMTEC will open for the
Stuller debuts Color Stories 2009 first time from May 28 to 30, 2010.
Stuller, Inc. has released Color Stories
2009, a trend book highlighting the Dubai to House World’s Finest Pearls
Company’s “colour centric” approach The United Arab Emirates will soon be home
to selling gemstones. The book to a unique selection of pearls at Dubai’s
is designed to show retailers the first pearl tender, including Paspaley’s Queen
important and potentially beneficial Mother pearl strand. Some of the world’s rarest
aspects of promoting gemstones and most sought-after natural and cultured
by colour instead of by birthstone. pearls were offered prior to the inaugural
“The age of colour is here. And if you World Pearl Forum, a conference dedicated to
want to increase your market share, the production, business, design, marketing
you’re going to have to improve and certification of the global pearl sector, in a
your show line and adopt a ‘color- private tender of the Dubai Pearl Exchange in
centric’ marketing message,” says February. Paspaley Pearling in Australia, Robert
Ramona Gautreaux, diamond and Wan Tahiti in French Polynesia, Jewelmer
gemstone marketing director. The main trends are: The Power of Nature, International Corporation in the Philippines
based on responsibility, sustainability and the creation of renewable, eco- and Cogent Trading in Hong Kong gathered
friendly products; The Global Village, offering a colour palette rich with cultural at the meeting. “This pearl tender will enable
connections; and Nostalgia, reflecting post-war music, art, politics and us to showcase our very finest pieces to a
attitudes of the 1940s and 50s. The book is available for a nominal fee, or truly international audience.” said Nicholas
retailers can visit the Company’s website to review the online version. Paspaley, chairman of Paspaley Pearling.
022-027.CJ_FTR_re.indd 24 3/25/09 4:36:45 PM

fortherecord
Platinum Guild International the jewellery trade. As Canadian Jeweller increased 16% year-on-year in 2008. In
Sponsors JCK Jewelers previously mentioned, platinum sales are set addition, 2009 seems promising due to stable
Choice Awards to be strong in 2009. market prices, a booming wedding market and
Platinum Guild International (PGI) efforts by retailers and the industry, according
announced the winners in the “Platinum Platinum Jewellery Market to Grow to PGI.
Jewelry” categories at the 2nd annual JCK in 2009 in China
Jewelers Choice Awards 2008. The competition Johnson Matthey, an authority on the Armin Storm Watches Now
is the first to conduct all judging via the platinum industry, noted that platinum Distributed in North America
Internet, allowing retailers to serve as the demand for jewellery use in China (largest Armin Storm watches are available in the
official judges. Categories included “Platinum market for platinum jewellery for nine years United States and Canada only in select
under $10,000,” with winner Danhov; running) was estimated at around 0.76 million trade stores and distributed by Totally Worth
“Platinum over $10,000,” with winner Erica ounces, accounting for 68% of the global It, headquarters in New York City, and
Courtney; and “Platinum 3-Ring Bridal total of 1.12 million ounces in 2008. China’s most recently credited with the commercial
Set,” with winner Durnell. These allowed platinum jewellery market experienced turnaround of Roger Dubuis in North America.
designers a platform to enter their bridal and challenges in 2008, mainly due to widely The timepieces, with hand-skeletonized and
fashion designs at a range of price points. fluctuating platinum prices. Nevertheless, engraved movements, are true in the high-
An astounding 319 entries and over 15,635 with platinum prices falling in the second end segment and are all produced in strictly
votes were tallied — a 40% increase from the half of 2008, the platinum market is expected limited editions. Recently, an entire movement
previous year. PGI is also a major supporter to see new opportunities in 2009, said structure for a Regulator with retrograde date
of the Platinum jewellery industry through Platinum Guild International (PGI), a global display was developed in its own Swiss ateliers
various trade and communications channels, organization dedicated to promoting platinum and watches are said to give added value deserve
and is dedicated to promoting Platinum jewellery. According to statistics from the and require profound product knowledge by
and its pure, rare and eternal qualities to Shanghai Gold Exchange, platinum purchases the sales force and maximum customer care.
Christie’s 100ct Diamond Named

‘The Shizuka Diamond’
In its Spring 2008 jewellery sale, a rare shield-shaped
F colour, VVS1 diamond of 101.27 carats sold for
US$6,211,249 at Christie’s Hong Kong and has recently
been named The Shizuka Diamond by its new owner as
a gift to his wife. It is the largest colourless diamond ever
sold at auction in Asia. Mounted into a tiara for its sale

at Christie’s in May 2008, it was the leading highlight of
the auction season. It’s been noted that the sale of such
a rare gem in Asia rather than New York or Geneva is a
testament to the vibrant Asian market and the growing
number of collectors in the region. Cut from a daunting
460 carat rough to 101.27 carats, its unusual modified
shield shape flaunts 92 brilliant facets. The Report from
the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) certifies that it
is F colour together with the highest standard for polish
and symmetry, both rated Excellent, a testament to the
skill of its cutters.
022-027.CJ_FTR_re.indd 25 3/25/09 4:36:53 PM

Swarovski’s Cascading Crystal Curtain
Sparkles at 81st Oscars
Attendees at the 81st Annual Academy
Awards, along with the 36.3 million
at-home viewers, were awed at the
spectacular set design. Created by
architect David Rockwell, the stage was
framed with a three-ton, 60-foot tall
custom-designed Swarovski crystal curtain
sparkling with over 100,000 crystals
flown-in especially from Austria. This
illuminating tapestry of cascading crystal
and light served as backdrop for one of
the highest-rated Oscar telecasts in years
with host Hugh Jackman and glimpses of
Hollywood’s biggest stars. Rockwell noted:
“We could not think of a better partner than Swarovski to fulfill our vision of not just a curtain, but a frame to capture all
the elegance, excitement and high-fashion that is the Academy Awards. We have collaborated with Swarovski many
times and the result is always breathtaking. This is yet another spectacular centerpiece.” People can also view exclusive
behind the scenes footage of the creation
Rousseau:Rousseau 3/25/09 4:03 PM Page MCDof the Crystal Curtain on Swarovski’s website.
1 Pearls SQ:Layout 1 2/25/09 10:31 AM Page 1
MCD Pearl Imports

A selection of pearl strands, loose pearls
and pearl jewellery.
catalogue available upon request
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T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368 2426
Email info@mcdpearls.com
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022-027.CJ_FTR_re.indd 26 3/25/09 4:36:58 PM

fortherecord
CIBJO Announces 2009 Congress

in Istanbul
CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation,
stock index
announced that the 2009 Congress will take Last Quarter Market
place in Istanbul, Turkey, from May 3 to Company Name Stock Exchange Price Price % 52-Week 52-Week Revenue P/E Cap
Symbol 12/16/08 03/06/09 Change High Low ($Millions) Ratio ($Millions)
May 5 in the historic Çira “This congress will be
held during what most believe is undoubtedly Precious Metals
the most severe crisis to have hit the world
Agnico-Eagle Mines AEM TSX $56.020 $63.920 14.10% $82.800 $26.600 $153.4 105.48 $9,895
economy in the past 80 years,” said CIBJO Alamos Gold AGI TSX $8.180 $8.150 -0.37% $9.140 $3.500 $37.7 36.78 $781
President Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri. “The issues that Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. AU NYSE $26.820 $30.710 14.50% $40.910 $13.370 $884.0 26.52 $8,630
Anvil Mining Limited AVM TSX $0.910 $0.970 6.59% $14.700 $0.450 $43.3 1.83 $69
we will be discussing are of critical importance
Barrick Gold Corp. ABX TSX $41.850 $36.960 -11.68% $54.080 $22.000 $2,100.0 33.63 $32,256
to our industry, which currently is searching for Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN NYSE $20.970 $18.890 -9.92% $42.890 $9.000 $195.3 16.52 $4,806
solutions to sustain itself during the downturn, Eastern Platinum ELR TSX $0.320 $0.370 15.63% $4.030 $0.185 $11.7 37 $252
Eldorado Gold ELD TSX $8.980 $10.700 19.15% $11.900 $3.440 $65.7 19.8 $3,941
so that it is positioned to emerge strongly when
Equinox Minerals Limited EQN TSX $1.390 $1.540 10.79% $5.620 $0.760 $13.7 N/A $913
the markets begin to recover.” The annual CIBJO First Quantum Minerals FM TSX $17.900 $33.240 85.70% $95.390 $12.750 $568.9 3.13 $2,285
Congress serves as the venue for the meeting FNX Mining Company FNX TSX $2.900 $3.140 8.28% $31.140 $2.000 $75.4 6.6 $267
Fortune Valley Resources FVX TSX-V $0.010 $0.030 200.00% $0.360 $0.005 N/A N/A $1
of the World Jewellery Confederation’s General Gammon Gold GAM TSX $5.050 $9.630 90.69% $11.200 $2.680 $51.7 N/A $1,153
Assembly, which is the organization’s primary Gold Fields GFI NYSE $10.080 $11.190 11.01% $16.850 $4.640 $718.1 14.78 $7,309
Goldcorp Inc. G TSX $38.000 $37.820 -0.47% $52.480 $17.770 $1,508.5 15.5 $27,575
decision-making body. A key event will be the
Iamgold Corp. IMG TSX $6.700 $9.900 47.76% $11.380 $2.930 $207.2 N/A $2,927
roll out of the World Jewellery Confederation International Royalty IRC TSX $1.680 $2.170 29.17% $6.300 $1.300 $11.5 13.75 $170
Education Foundation, a body created by Ivanhoe Mines IVN TSX $2.980 $5.270 76.85% $13.100 $2.060 $3.1 N/A $1,979
Kinross Gold K TSX $22.000 $21.350 -2.95% $27.160 $8.960 $484.4 34.58 $14,079
CIBJO and the United Nations, dedicated to
Lundin Mining LUN TSX $1.220 $1.080 -11.48% $9.150 $0.690 $52.6 N/A $526
formulating and delivering training programs Newmont Mining NMC TSX $47.880 $49.980 4.39% $56.110 $27.140 $1,342.0 21.74 $17,172
for all sectors of the world industry about NovaGold Resources NG TSX $2.090 $3.540 69.38% $11.360 $0.475 $34.8 90 $372
Pan American Silver PAA TSX $20.450 $18.360 -10.22% $43.660 $11.120 $40.8 48.11 $1,483
corporate responsibility principles and practices Red Back Mining Inc. RBI TSX $7.500 $7.440 -0.80% $9.250 $3.280 $65.9 19.23 $1,533
in the jewellery business. Silver Standard Resources SSO TSX $17.300 $17.740 2.54% $38.000 $6.870 $1.8 N/A $1,112
Silver Wheaton SLW TSX $7.090 $8.570 20.87% $19.300 $3.070 $34.7 27.65 $1,911
Teck Cominco Ltd. TCK.B TSX $5.980 $3.900 -34.78% $52.900 $3.350 $1,663.0 2.18 $1,899
Private Ring Collection Exhibits Yamana Gold Inc. YRI TSX $8.380 $11.120 32.70% $19.790 $4.290 $431.5 24.61 $7,775
in London in May
Roman to Renaissance, an exhibition devoted GemStones

to a private collection of 35 rings Anglo American PLC AAUK Nasdaq $12.640 $7.120 -43.67% $36.370 $6.210 N/A 1.78 $18,827
dating from 300 to 1600 AD, will be staged BHP Billiton Limited BHP NYSE $44.320 $37.130 -16.22% $95.610 $24.530 N/A 6.46 $62,348
Diamcor Mining DMI TSX-V $0.185 $0.150 -18.92% $0.640 $0.130 N/A N/A $1
by the Paris gallery Les Enluminures at the Diamond Fields International DFI TSX $0.050 $0.045 -10.00% $0.600 $0.025 $0.7 N/A $11
London dealer Wartski from May 12 to Dios Exploration DOS TSX-V $0.060 $0.090 50.00% $0.370 $0.050 N/A N/A $3
May 22. The collection comprises fine Harry Winston Diamond HW TSX $5.880 $2.520 -57.14% $32.150 $2.660 $217.4 0.57 $155
Mountain Province Diamonds MPV TSX $1.100 $0.770 -30.00% $5.140 $0.730 N/A N/A $46
examples of rings from the Merovingian, Moydow Mines Intl Inc MOY TSX $0.080 $0.085 6.25% $0.210 $0.050 N/A N/A $5
Byzantine, Medieval and Renaissance periods New Nadina Expls Ltd NNA TSX-V $0.120 $0.115 -4.17% $0.375 $0.075 N/A N/A $3
Nordic Diamonds Ltd NDL TSX-V $0.005 $0.010 100.00% $0.130 $0.005 N/A N/A $1
including marriage rings, seal rings, stirrup
Rio Tinto RTP NYSE $98.750 $102.450 3.75% $558.650 $59.200 N/A 8.93 $25,536
rings, tart mould rings, iconographic rings, Stornoway Diamond SWY TSX $0.065 $0.085 30.77% $0.610 $0.055 $0.1 N/A $19
merchant rings and gemstone rings. Twenty Tahera Diamond TAH TSX $0.005 $0.005 0.00% $0.085 $0.005 $5.7 N/A $1
True North Gems TGX TSX-V $0.060 $0.090 50.00% $0.440 $0.050 N/A N/A $6
years in the making, the collection was
formed by Sandra Hindman, Professor of Jewellers & Retailers
Art History at Northwestern University in

Birks & Mayors BMJ AMEX $0.420 $0.200 -52.38% $4.980 $0.200 N/A 0.17 $2
Chicago, and owner of Les Enluminures, a Fossil Inc. FOSL Nasdaq $14.140 $11.750 -16.90% $44.730 $11.510 $409.8 6.55 $957
gallery in Paris and Chicago specializing in Sears Canada SCC TSX $17.950 $18.200 1.39% $25.390 $15.000 $1,443.8 6.71 $1,959
Signet Group SIG NYSE $9.020 $7.240 -19.73% $31.620 $5.910 $629.3 N/A $617
illuminated manuscripts and works of art
Tiffany & Co. TIF NYSE $24.430 $17.210 -29.55% $49.980 $16.750 $618.2 6.25 $2,134
from the Middle Ages and Renaissance. The Wal-Mart WMT NYSE $55.240 $48.910 -11.46% $63.850 $46.250 $107,996.0 14.55 $191,852
exhibition will be complemented by a lecture Zale Corporation ZLC NYSE $3.220 $0.970 -69.88% $42.230 $0.890 $679.4 N/A $31
programme and a catalogue in English with

Commodities
descriptions offering comparisons with rings
in major public collections, and placing Gold COMX $942.700
Silver COMX $13.323
each one in its art-historical context and Platinum NYME $1,078.700
a technical section studying each ring, its Palladium NYME $203.500
material, fabrication and use. [CJ]

*This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.
022-027.CJ_FTR_re.indd 27 3/25/09 4:36:58 PM

GoldSpring Announces 0.123 Ounces Rio Tinto Announces Partnership 70% held Troy Mine during 2008, including an
Per Ton Gold and 2.23 Ounces Per Ton with Aluminium Corporation 8% increase of silver production of 1.2 million
Silver at Hartford/Lucerne Deposit of China ounces and copper production of 9.8 million
GoldSpring, Inc. announced the results of Rio Tinto has announced a recommendation pounds, a 4% increase from 2007. There was
10 infill drill holes with high concentrations that shareholders approve a partnership with also a reduction of 29% in operating costs
of gold and silver, specifically in drill holes: Aluminium Corporation of China (“Chinalco”), from October to December 2008. The Q4 2008
RC-102, with a 65-foot interval at 0.123 ounces a Chinese diversified resources company. This achievement is particularly significant during
per ton of gold and 2.23 ounces per ton of silver; will create joint ventures in aluminium, copper a period when wages were also reduced by 10%
and RC-104 with a 115-foot interval at 0.091 and iron ore as well as the issue of convertible for all employees at the Troy Mine. In addition
ounces per ton of gold and 1.98 ounces per bonds to Chinalco, which would, if converted, to increased production, operating costs have
ton of silver. Larry Martin, GoldSpring’s Chief allow Chinalco to increase its existing been reduced through realization of lower
Geologist, says: “These 10 drill hole results are shareholding in Rio Tinto. This transaction prices for fuel and other consumables and
characterized by long contiguous intervals of is intended to position Rio Tinto to sustain increased focus on better utilization of
gold and silver mineralization, which illustrate during economic troubles and help propel the wear materials.
the deposit's continuity and expansion at Company into the next decade.
Lucerne/Hartford.” As reported to GoldSpring, Burnstone Executes Mining
all drill samples were collected following Troy Mine Operations Update and Right and Environmental
standard industry practice and were assayed by Year End Reserves Management Program
American Assay Laboratories, Inc. Gold results Revett Minerals Inc. has announced improved Vancouver-based Great Basin Gold Ltd.
were determined using standard fire assay operations performance and year-end reserves announced the execution of its mining
techniques on a 30 gram sample with an atomic and resources from its Troy Mine. The right, and the approval of its environmental
absorption finish. Company achieved record production from its management program by the Department of
Minerals and Energy for the Burnstone Gold
Project in South Africa. A mining right to allow
the Company's Southgold Exploration to mine
gold, silver and aggregate in the Burnstone
mine area was initially granted on October 28,
2008. It is valid for an initial period of 18 years
from date of execution and gives Southgold
the right to mine for gold and silver, and plans
to apply for an extension. Ferdi Dippenaar,
President and CEO, comments: “This is
another important milestone in the history
of Great Basin Gold, as it clears the way for
commercial mining at the Burnstone project.
We look forward to delivering a commercial
mining operation by June 2010.”
Gammon Gold Presents at the BMO

Global Metals & Mining Conference
Nova Scotia-based Gammon Gold Inc.
128 De Beers Workers Lose Jobs at Northern diamond Mine
posted its Investor Presentation, which was
De Beers Canada’s Snap Lake diamond mine in the Northwest Territories saw
used at the BMO Global Metals & Mining
a loss of 218 jobs. Citing the worldwide economic crisis, the Company will also
Conference, on its corporate website. This
downsize operations in the mine, and 128 De Beers staff received termination
innovative method allows investors and
notices, while 90 contract workers experienced contract suspensions or scaled
interested parties to view the presentation
work duties. “This is a very difficult but necessary business decision as we respond
ahead of time. Gammon Gold is a mid-tier
to the changing client demand for diamonds in the short term,” De Beers Canada
gold and silver producer with properties in
president Jim Gowans stated. “Our mines have accomplished a tremendous
Mexico. The report notes a 15% increase in
amount in their first year of operation and we must continue to overcome the
Gold ounces, and reduced total cash costs by
economic challenges of today to position ourselves for a strong and long-term
20%. The Company also launched a major
future in Canada.” These losses come fresh after 105 contract jobs terminations at
exploration program, reporting its best-ever
the mine late last year and an announcement that the mine will be shut down for six
operation quarter, with a 256% increase in
weeks in the summer and four weeks in the winter throughout 2009.
operating cash flow.
028-029.CJ_MiningNews.indd 28 3/25/09 4:11:51 PM

miningnews
Lundin Mining Reports Deep Q4 Loss Rio Tinto Sells Jacobs Ranch Avion to Cut Costs/Boost Revenue
Toronto base-metals miner Lundin Mining Coal Mine with Mali Mine Plan
Corp reported a loss of $728,5-million for Q4, Rio Tinto signed a sale and purchase agreement Toronto-based Avion Resources has released
compared with a loss of $436,6-million a year to sell its Jacobs Ranch coal mine to Arch Coal, an updated mine plan for its Segala/Tabakoto
earlier, after the Company wrote down the value Inc. for a total cash consideration of US$761 mine and mill complex with aims to lower
of assets and recorded $94,3-million in negative million. Completion of the transaction remains operating costs and improve revenue. Avion,
pricing adjustments from previous quarters. subject to customary closing conditions, which bought the Tabakoto mine and nearby
Before discontinued operations and impairment including regulatory approvals. Jacobs Ranch, Segala deposit last year from fellow Canadian
charges of $576-million, the Company lost located south of Gillette, Wyoming in the Nevsun Resources, hopes for a 66,000oz
$131.9 million. CEO Phil Wright noted that a southern portion of the Powder River Basin, gold production this year. Nevsun began
steep fall in base-metal prices since September mines steam coal and ships it to customers production at Tabakoto in June 2006, but
resulted in a difficult Q4. The Company was throughout the U.S. In November 2007, Rio placed it on care and maintenance when
also about to be acquired by HudBay Minerals, Tinto Energy America (RTEA), a business unit it failed to turn profit. The Company then
but HudBay shareholders opposed this and that operates U.S. coal mines mainly in the focused on the lucrative Bisha project in
the two firms cancelled the transaction in late Powder River Basin of Wyoming and Montana, Eritrea. In the updated plan, the Segala open
February. To manage costs, Lundin has curtailed including Jacobs Ranch, was identified for pits have been redesigned to reduce stripping
production at some operations, and has sold its divestment. The process of divesting RTEA, ratios and increase mining resources.
Portugal Aljustrel operation. which will remain one of the largest coal According to Avion, this should reduce start-
producers in the U.S. following this transaction, up capital expenditures by approximately
Silver Standard Announces Public will continue. During 2008, Rio Tinto realized $1 million.
Offering of Common Shares almost US$3 billion from asset sales, comprising
Vancouver-based Silver Standard Resources the Greens Creek mine in Alaska for US$750 Stats Can Says Mining will Tumble
Inc. has filed a preliminary prospectus million, its interest in the Cortez operation in A new survey by Statistics Canada notes that
supplement to its existing short form base shelf Nevada for US$1.695 billion and the Kintyre investment in mining, oil and gas is likely
prospectus with the securities commissions uranium project in Western Australia for to plunge this year. Results reveal private
in Canada and the U.S. in connection with US$495 million. In January 2009, the Group investment in construction, machinery
a public offering of its common shares to announced the divestment of its interest in the and equipment has dropped 6.6% from
raise gross proceeds of approximately US$80 Ningxia aluminum smelter in China for US$125 2009, mainly due to the mining, oil and gas
million. The Company will use this for the million as well as its potash assets and Brazilian extraction industry. Investment intentions
development of mineral properties, working iron ore operation for US$1.6 billion. are also expected to drop to $44.9 billion,
capital requirements, to repay outstanding 26.4% less than in 2008 primarily in Alberta
debts and other corporate purposes. South African-Canada Chamber and British Columbia. According to the
Launches African Mining Network Government of Canada, mining sector
Lonmin to Cut 5,500 Jobs in South African-Canada Chamber of Commerce investments are down 26.4% to $5.6 billion
Platinum Mines has announced the launch of a mining- in 2009 and capital expenditures will fall in
Lonmin Plc, the world’s third-biggest platinum networking group to facilitate mining the Northwest Territories and Nunavut.
producer, will terminate up to 5,500 workers partnerships between the two countries open
at its South African platinum operations. The to both Canadian-based and African-based Rio Tinto Announces 38% Increase
Company expects to cut 300 management jobs companies operating in the continent. A focus in Earnings
and 4,000 full-time jobs at its Marikana mine. of the program is to provide opportunities for Rio Tinto has announced underlying earnings
The cuts come in response to drop in demand members to attend mining-related seminars and of $10.3 billion, with net earnings of $3.7
from car makers, the biggest user of the metal. workshops, networking sessions, adopt skills billion, 50% below 2007, and cash flow from
As a result, prices have tumbled more than 50% and assistance from each other and facilitate operations up 64% to a record of $20.7
from its highest peak last year. “With the current possible business ventures. Representatives from billion. The Company also noted record
backdrop of challenging economic conditions, the Canadian Trade Commissioner to South production achieved in 2008 in iron ore,
these agreements are an important milestone Africa explained the partnership came about bauxite and alumina, borates, hard coking
in our objective of restructuring the company,” due to a strong Canadian mining presence coal and U.S. coal. Rio Tinto’s chairman Paul
noted Chief Executive Ian Farmer. However, the in South Africa and the rest of the continent. Skinner says: “The Group benefited from the
National Union of Mineworkers and Solidarity It is also key to note that Canadian-listed quality of its assets and its strength in the
trade union (with 300,000 members) said they companies held over 35% of the mining assets bulk commodities of iron ore and coal,
had not agreed to the job cuts. Despite this, and investments in Africa and come second only which tend to be priced on an annual
Lonmin repeated it still expects to achieve to SA-based companies. During Q3 of 2008, basis. These helped to offset steep falls in
platinum sales of around 700,000 ounces from a Canadian investments grew to $3.5 billion in the price of traded metals such as copper
full year’s production at Marikana. the region. and aluminium.” [CJ]
028-029.CJ_MiningNews.indd 29 3/25/09 4:11:52 PM

Precious Things Grow in Ontario
There are several key institutions playing a major role in Ontario’s diamond
industry, which is good news for Canadian retailers and manufacturers.
B y Bryan Soroka
O
ntario’s diamond industry is a relatively new entity. However, it Geoscience Section, Ontario Geological Survey — to find out more about
has been making tremendous strides over the past several years, what they are doing to promote and grow the Ontario diamond industry.
and is poised to play a pivotal role in Canada’s emergence as
a world leader in diamond production. A World Leader
During the past decade, diamond production in Canada has grown at
Serving Ontario’s minerals industry, the Ministry of Northern Development an astonishing rate. In fact, Canada is now the third largest producer of
& Mines delivers provincial government programs and services in diamonds by value in the world. To give you an idea of just how big its
Northern Ontario, along with representing northern and mining interests diamond production has become, consider that 2008’s diamond worth
at Queen’s Park. The organization’s Diamond Sector Unit, meanwhile, takes was $2.4 billion. “We [Ontario] represent a small portion of Canadian
the lead in developing policies and legislative and regulatory framework production relative to the Northwest Territories,” Mr. Merwin notes.
for Ontario’s diamond industry. “We’re 5% by volume and 13% by value, which reflects the quality of
diamonds at the De Beers Canada Victor mine.”
One of the biggest announcements is certainly the launch of the Diamond
Bourse of Canada, a wholesale rough and polished exchange where Mr. Merwin says that diamonds have added a new role to the Ministry’s
merchants meet to purchase and sell diamonds. This new entity is sure to responsibilities. These include looking at the valuation of diamonds
positively impact Canada’s global presence, and along with the Ministry’s and value-added opportunities to see how that translates into jobs
initiatives, Canadian retailers and manufacturers have much to look and investment in Ontario. Promotion is obviously a key initiative
forward to. as well. “We encourage programs for exploration,” Mr. Merwin says.
“We’re on the ground and in the air… exploring areas of high mineral
Canadian Jeweller talked to several key members of the Ministry of potential including diamonds, and we share the information with
Northern Development & Mines — Robert Merwin, Executive Director, prospectors and junior companies who in turn develop further
Diamond Sector Unit and Jack Parker, Senior Manager, Precambrian exploration programs.”
030-031.CJ_MiningFeatureV2.indd 30 3/25/09 4:14:02 PM

miningfeature
Raising the awareness of diamonds in Ontario and other regions is

an ongoing mandate. “Up until now [diamonds] were just from the
Northwest Territories,” Mr. Merwin comments. “Now, there’s the potential
for Quebec and Saskatchewan. The global diamond industry has taken
notice of what’s happening in Canada.”
“What we’re seeing in stores is that consumers are migrating to a

Canadian flag,” Mr. Merwin continues. “They value those stones in terms
of social responsibility of being conflict free and knowing they are quality,
ethically mined diamonds.” The Executive Director goes on to say that
the Ministry plans to work more closely with Canadian jewellers to
explore opportunities. “We want to see what opportunities exist to marry
Canadian diamonds with Canadian gold and platinum, and promote
Aboriginal inspired jewellery design,” Mr. Merwin elaborates.
Another big step taken by the Ministry is a recent agreement it made

with De Beers Canada, where 10% of diamonds by value produced from been identified in Ontario. While all of them will not be diamondiferous,
the Victor mine will be processed in and marketed through Ontario. the potential is certainly there, which is a theory shared by many Canadian
“There is an enormous opportunity for jewellery manufacturers to access businesses. “There are 22 companies with diamond properties in Ontario,
the Victor mine production,” Mr. Merwin exclaims. “In other words, a 13 of which are actively exploring, worth an estimated $13.5 million in
diamond mined in Ontario, which will soon be cut, polished and sold 2009.” Mr. Merwin details. “We’ve really appreciated the involvement of
in Ontario.” The Province expects to announce the company selected to the jewellery companies working with Ontario to help us learn about the
establish Ontario’s first cutting and polishing facility this April. industry and pursue further opportunities.”
Technical Support Diamond Bourse of Canada

Above and beyond promoting Ontario diamonds, the Ministry of Because diamond production in Canada has grown to such an extent,
Northern Development & Mines actively assists in discovering new many people in the diamond sector have been intrigued by the prospect
diamond deposits. “We map bedrock geology for Ontario and collect of a Canadian diamond bourse. That is exactly what happened as the
airborne geophysical data,” says Jack Parker, Senior Manager, Precambrian Diamond Bourse of Canada (DBC) was officially launched. “It will serve
Geoscience Section, Ontario Geological Survey. as a focal point for the diamond industry in Canada,” said Bhushan Vora
of Gemstar, Inc., and Chairman of the Board, DBC, during the official
Mr. Parker and his colleagues look for specific indicator minerals in the launch event in Toronto on March 3.
sand and gravels that may be indicative of kimberlite, which are the rocks
that hold diamonds. “All of Ontario has been glaciated,” he explains. “The Located in Toronto, Ontario, the DBC is a facility where diamond
glaciers move across the province eroding away the rocks, leaving behind dealers can meet, buy and sell rough and polished diamonds in a safe
sand and gravel deposits. They scrape the rocks and disperse them down and secure environment. “It will clearly benefit retailers and buyers in
the ice.” putting Canadian diamonds in the hands of Canadian manufacturers
and consumers,” said Tim Coleman, Minerals, Oil and Gas and
Mr. Parker says that the geophysical surveys he helps conduct can be used Mackenzie Valley Pipeline Office Director, Department of Industry,
to locate kimberlites, which have a unique geophysical signature that Tourism and Investment, Government of Northwest Territories. “With
can be identified on maps. “Our mandate is to collect geoscience data the establishment of the Bourse, Canada will become one of the world’s
for the province to be used for a variety of purposes,” he states. “Mining premiere diamond distributors.”
companies can use it for targeting areas for a high mineral potential, and
companies use the data to help them focus on a better chance of finding Key benefits to the industry include shipping, customs and other services
something.” Mr. Parker adds that there are no guarantees of finding specifically designed for diamond trading purposes, working with verified
kimberlite. However, the exploration initiatives attract investment dollars vendors and dealers and secure online access to available inventory of
because of their sound perspective geology, and the data once released polished diamonds across Canada. The introduction of the DBC could not
reduces the potential of risk in mineral exploration. “[We have] new ideas come at a better time considering Canada’s weakened economy, and has
about where diamond bearing kimberlites might be and new data we’re instilled many with a renewed sense of confidence. “It is the right thing to
collecting in the north,” Mr. Parker says. do,” said Morris Robinson, Treasurer for the DBC.“ The momentum we’ve
started will continue to grow.” [CJ]
Regarding kimberlites, Mr. Merwin notes, “Our diamond production is
based on a single kimberlite pipe… but there are a number of pipes adjacent To find out more about the Diamond Bourse of Canada and to discover how to become a
to the Victor pipe.” Mr. Merwin adds that there are 70 kimberlites that have member, visit www.diamondbourse.ca.
030-031.CJ_MiningFeatureV2.indd 31 3/25/09 4:14:05 PM

Timeless
When it comes to factors driving the
most popular styles of watches, what is
old is definitely new again.
B y Mireille Theriault
T
hrough the good times and the bad, fashion designers have
interpreted and even influenced society’s mood. Watches, as
an accessory, have enjoyed a special place in fashion given its
necessity and universal appeal. Not just a pretty bauble, watches that
managed to serve the dual masters of function and beauty have earned
their own level of respect.
Considering the head start women had over men in wearing

wristwatches, much of the fashion surrounding ladies
timepieces focused on making them look like jewellery.
Delicate faces encased in circles and ovals of gold and silver
finishes were common as was the use of bracelets rather
than straps. For examples of the opulence and glamour
heralded by the queens of the silver screen, nothing
could compare to the gem-encrusted creations of fashion
houses such as Chanel and Cartier, whose pedigree as
the most famous designers of jewellery was unrivaled.
Yet the budding excess was to come to an abrupt halt
with the harsh realities of the Depression.
As watches became more common among men as well

as women, fashion reflected a more restrained mood. In
the mainstream, emphasis switched to making ‘sensible’
looking watches and major brands realized that they had
to make them more affordable as well. Throughout the
Depression years, Bulova even offered time-payment plans.
Innovation turned from the fanciful to the functional leading to
breakthroughs such as the Rolex “Rotor” and opened the door to future
design possibilities.
Image courtesy of watchismo.com
This is not to say that watches have been immune to the fickle tide of
fashion luring many designs into the undertow of fads never to be seen
again. Once the economy picked up, watch design from the fashion
perspective would slowly regain confidence. This would usher in new
shapes inspired by the events of the day. Notably, squared faces reflected
Roger Tallon’s Mach 2000 series has
the publics’ growing love affair with television and by extension, the
become an icon for LIP, while integrating
advertising that would fuel even more creative concepts. popular style cues such as rubber straps.
032-034.CJ_Watch.indd 32 3/25/09 4:43:35 PM

watchfeature
In the 1960s and even more so in the 1970s, fashion and design embraced
new materials to experiment with wild colours and avant-garde and sleek
looks, which incorporated everything from Teak to plastic inlays. Stars
such as Roger Tallon made a lasting impact, not specifically a fashion
as much as a lifestyle designer. His Mach 2000 series with the primary-
coloured spherical pushers and crowns has become an icon for LIP.
Technological breakthroughs included the 1961 Accutron, the first watch
to keep time through electronics. And from the moment man first walked
on the moon, a fascination with all things futuristic gripped fashion with
countless utterly bizarre and enduring new creations.
It was at this point that many retailers such as Mo Charania, owner of

Jubilee Fine Jewellers in Ottawa, Ontario, saw the most rapid changes.
“When Quartz watches came along and watches dropped in price, we
started seeing all sorts of assortments and interesting gadgets.” Everything
from solar panels to radios and calculators were built into watches. “These
eventually faded out and we saw the resurgence of mechanical watches.”
Others who are also watchmakers like Reg Grandis, owner of Grandis
Jewellers in quiet Petrolia, Ontario, also have vivid memories of that era.
“Years ago, the Concorde introduced a watch that was approximately
3mm thick. They were trying to make the thinnest watch in the world. I
remember working on those and being told that thin, thin, thin was the
way in,” he says.
Charania concurs, “One of the first things that really struck me in the '70s
was the ultra-thin Longines. I remember thinking ‘how is this practical as
a man’s watch?’ It was literally about the thickness of a quarter. Certainly
the evolution has gone from very small to quite large again. There is a lot
of the retro styling and designs from the '60s and '70s that are very much
in vogue again.”
The latter has more to do with the sweeping hands of fashion. While
clothing styles whiz by in literally minutes, watch trends are mercifully
measured in decades. Even though we sometimes cringe at the resurgence
of fashions we would much rather forget, the renewed admiration for the
mechanical watch is a welcome walk down memory lane. “People have
started to appreciate the value of having a watchmaker assemble a piece
again,” says Grandis.
This Christian Bernard men’s watch displays a
rounded case with stones — a perfect example of how
As a second-generation storeowner with 35 years experience of his own, form is taking over for function in the watch category.
Bernard Florence of Calgary Jewellers agrees, “Precision is only one
aspect. I think people are asking now much more for automatic watches
based on their knowledge of the hand-created timepiece movement. Men
are definitely asking for automatic watches more now than ever before.
There is a renewed appreciation for the beauty of the movement and the
intricacy of the hand work. It really is part of the conversation and part
of the enticing beauty of the watch to see what’s going on the inside. For
those reasons, a lot of women are also asking for them. In some cases,
women are sporting a man’s watch on their wrist.”
032-034.CJ_Watch.indd 33 3/25/09 4:43:36 PM

It is very clear that big is back, but so is the “bling” factor, which is blurring
the gender lines even more. “We’ve had considerably more requests for
diamond pieces in the men’s part of the world. A lot of guys are going
for that diamond look in their watches in the bezels and face. Even in the
bracelet,” Florence says.
“We have noticed in the last few years that mechanical watches are sexy
again,” adds Grandis. “There are a lot of retrograde looking things. The
more complicated, the better, but the funny thing is, these mechanical
watches are using the same movements that they were 30 years ago.” He
also observes that men are asking for more glamour in their timepieces.
“Certainly I’ve sold more diamond watches in the last couple of years than
I’ve ever sold my life.”
“I don’t think there’s any one trend now. The leather strap is making a very
strong comeback but rubber is also very popular,” says Florence. “We’re
seeing a lot of different things,” adds Grandis. “A lot of leather straps; a
lot of pin and buckle as opposed to a bracelet. Certainly the evolution
of all sorts of different types of rubber and exotic and metals in new
combinations and treatments. I think one of the biggest fashion bleeps
anyone has seen is putting diamonds on steel. That has taken off to create
a whole new look.”
It is clear that over the last few decades, elegance and opulence have
steadily come back in and watches have been getting bigger and thicker
— growing in time with the economy. So where are we headed now with
this next economic downturn? Will there be a quick back step from this
trend? Will fashion dictate a more restrained look or will we rebel and
keep the diamonds in the face of recession? Will this actually usher in an
exciting new era of design as we will try to make more with less? Only
time will tell. [CJ]
Pulsar’s Alarm Chronograph features popular design

cues including a screw case, LumiBrite® hands,
polyurethane strap and rotating bezel.
The wild designs and colours of the 1960’s and

'70s are evident in Korloff ’s women’s watch with
mother-of-pearl dial, sapphire glass and satin strap.
032-034.CJ_Watch.indd 34 3/25/09 4:43:39 PM

facevalue
Back to the Future

From the Great Depression to the purchasing power of the '60s
and '70s, more and more vintage jewellery from the 20th Century
is being sought after today.
By Duncan Parker
I
t seems so long ago, now, though practically everyone reading this
was born in it: the 20th Century. It was a time of highs (particularly
in the 1960s and 1970s), and lows (not too many of us remember the
Depression, but it seems to remind us of something familiar, anyway).
There was an incredible range of jewellery styles that came and went
during this era. Queen Victoria was still alive when the 20th century
rolled out. When the century had its last death rattles, we were all terrified
of global meltdowns brought about by shortsighted software developers.
Little did we realize that the coming 100 years would bring about a rage
for camouflage accessories (pink for “girly” girls), and hand grenade-
sized and shaped wristwatches, the product of a political upheaval that
would lead to a true global meltdown on a macroeconomic scale.
As appraisers, we most commonly see jewellery from the 20th Century.

We do see older pieces, of course, and we frequently have the opportunity
to see 21st Century jewels, However, I would say that the vast majority
of jewellery that we are appraising is of 20th Century. It is useful to
understand the styles of the past century because there is a lot that is
coming out of safety deposit boxes or ancestral jewellery boxes. There
are thousands of interesting jewels coming into the market as we see the
gradual liquidation of unwanted or forgotten assets.
With this cornucopia of jewels being poured into the market, it is a good
idea to have a basic understanding of styles and designs as these baubles
tumble into the market. We are all easily impressed by a little knowledge.
Everyone has watched those TV shows with smart-sounding specialists
who can look at something for two seconds and tell the owner, “This is
very interesting. You see that one millimetre dot on the left hand side?
That means it was made by the second son of the master designer such
and such on February 9, 1723, he only made one other, and it’s in the
collection of the Hermitage.” We can all sound clever by following certain
simple indicators that are found in the style or design of jewellery, or are
found stamps on the jewellery.
038-040.CJ_FaceValue.indd 35 3/25/09 4:40:26 PM

Metals used in jewellery are one important factor, the colours of gold to follow the modish Majestic as she displayed more flamboyance and
used, the alloys and the combinations of metals are important. We colour than her mother. Subsequently, we saw this approach paralleled
cannot look at every element in a single article, so we will not focus on into the jewellery palette.
the metals. One combination of metals that we used to see in earlier
Victorian times was yellow gold-backed silver with diamonds set in the Diamonds from South Africa had been available for a couple of decades,
silver. Through the 20th Century, this combination was not often used and we saw the 20th Century start with more diamond jewellery than
except in reproduction jewellery. You can recognize the reproductions ever. Starburst brooches were all the rage. Uniform yellow gold star
because they often use brown diamonds and round shaped rose cut forms bead set with diamonds were worn by the wealthy, and for those
diamonds, neither of which is commonly seen in authentic antiques. We with a more limited budget, starbursts set with small seed pearls were
used white gold or platinum instead of silver as the white metal for setting widely available.
diamonds through the century.
Russia was producing beautiful green demantoid garnets at the time, and
The gems used are important, too. There are certain gems that were not we see many realistically rendered salamanders with rows of demantoid
used or were not available at certain times. Tiffany formally introduced garnets along their backs.
tanzanite to jewellery in 1967. If you see a pendant with tanzanite in it, it
is likely either from 1967 or later, or it has had a different gem replaced The clasps for the on early 20th Century brooches were often a simple
with tanzanite. hook. The pins on Victorian brooches were quite long, extending beyond
the length of the brooch. In later years, we saw the length of the pin
Rose cut diamonds have been available for centuries, though true antique shortening to be not more than the length of the brooch.
rose cut diamonds are not generally round in profile. Rather, they are most
often cut from thin irregularly shaped cleavage fragments of diamond. The late Victorian period included nature inspired jewels of the Art
They have a flat back, and generally the crown is one or more rows of Nouveau style. Art Nouveau jewels were associated with the Arts and
triangular facets rising to a point at the top of the gem. If you see a rose Crafts style of William Morris, among others, and focused on handcrafted
cut diamond that has a round shape, it is likely from the late 20th Century. items in a counter reaction to the mass production of the industrial
Rose cut diamonds are being cut in India for reproduction jewellery. revolution. Art Nouveau used natural forms, asymmetrical designs
and often incorporated enamel. Much of this jewellery used pearls and
The end of the Victorian period did see Her Majesty relax her strict cabochon cut gems, including opals but rarely faceted gems. Rene Lalique
adherence to mourning, so there was a little scope from black jet jewellery. was a very important designer of this period. The Art Nouveau style was
The Queen’s daughter, Alexandra, was very stylish, and people tended the prominent fashion until the First World War.

facevalue
War does put the brakes on jewellery for various reasons. Labour is available. Princess Diana received a sapphire and diamond engagement
employed elsewhere, precious metals are needed for “strategic” uses ring, and the coloured stone come into its own. Everyone had to have a
and money is spent on other things. Princess Diana ring, and sapphire prices went mad.
The end of the war saw all sorts of changes and created a great sense of The interest in sapphires helped to promote interest in all kinds of
excitement for the future. Art Deco was the new thing. France was the colour and we saw imports from around the world open eyes to the
origin of this industrial geometric, symmetrical reaction to the freeform possibilities of colour. Dials on watches were still made of many
style of Art Nouveau. Art Deco jewellery often used many small gems. different gems.
Not to exhibit value or prosperity, but to play a part in the overall design.
Art Deco used many synthetic sapphires, showing off the new technology By the end of the 1980s and into the 1990s the economy had suffered
that was in keeping with the style of the geometric uniformity of the a setback, and we became more conservative in our buying. Coloured
design. Art Deco was popular and was replicated around the world until gemstone beads were everywhere, and for a few dollars, we could create
the Second World War, often with local inspiration. necklaces in any colour we wanted,
Once again, war interrupted this progress and there were other uses While some worked on wire wrapping, eliminating the need for
for “strategic” precious metals. We could not get our hands on gold or solder, others worked on unusual designs, and re-discovered ancient
platinum, and probably had other things to focus on anyway. We did techniques. Mokume, a Japanese process of layering and texturing
find other metals to use. One form of jewellery from the war period was metals, was taught and practiced again. Unusual metals, titanium,
aluminum necklaces and bracelet chains that were inspired by the look tungsten, and others were used alone and in combination with others
of treads from military tanks. to create colours and textures that were new to jewellery.
The end of the war saw jewellery jubilation. Finally we were freed to Gem cutters were working on new cut styles, new cutting and inlay
use gold again, so we went BIG. Retro jewellery incorporated large techniques, and new combinations of drilling and carving methods.
planes of polished gold (usually rose gold), often with scroll forms and The new gems and cuts brought about new inspirations in jewellery
synthetic rubies. Much of the Retro jewellery was hollow, and showed design. The growth of cutting and jewellery manufacturing in Thailand,
lots of gold without as much weight as it appeared to be. India, and China allowed for modestly priced gems and jewellery of
all kinds. Designers around the world could rely on regular supply of
Through the 1940s and 1950s there were lots of large brooches, flower volumes of gems and finished jewellery.
bouquets of diamonds and coloured gems. We saw the beginning of a
new experimentation in naturalistic forms, with animal shaped pins. The 20th Century wound up with massive changes in the whole
These animals were popular well into the 1960s. jewellery world. The Internet was leveling the market, forcing prices
down. Shopping channels were marketing unusual gems that were not
The 1950s and 1960s saw lots of traditional diamond jewellery in available in the conventional retail market, and generating interest in a
conservative forms of simple engagement rings and circle brooches. wide range of gems.
We also saw lots of cabochon-cut gems in jewellery. “Linde” heavily
promoted their lab-grown star sapphires (identifiable by the flat backs Freshwater pearls were being cultured in China and the end of the
that are signed with a sandblasted script letter L). This period also saw century was rolling along with massive increases in availability and
widely available colour enhanced diamonds in a spectrum of colours. decreases in price.
The 1970s was one of the less memorable periods in jewellery. We also saw the economic enthusiasm create great gigantic diamond
Naturalistic forms, tendrils, nugget textures, and large quantities encrusted “bling” jewellery. There was also interest in precious metal
of gold were the order of the day, bark texturing was on the simpler versions of day-to-day items. There were gold and diamond computer
jewellery, and once in a while we limited ourselves to cross-Florentining mice, jewel encrusted mobile telephones. The economic enthusiasm
(cross-hatched texture of perpendicular groups of parallel engraved during the beginning of the 20th Century spurred similar creations,
lines). Watch dials were made of stone, and tiger-eye was everywhere. gold change purses, gold tooth picks, and gold, jewel encrusted powder
Gold had been taken off a fixed price per ounce, and as the cost of this compacts and cigarette cases. Everything old is new again.
metal rose, everyone needed to show how much he or she could afford
to buy. The 20th Century ended on a high note, with everyone spending like
drunken sailors, and we know where that got us don’t we? Now all
As we arrived to the 1980s, we had Ronald Reagan as President of the that enthusiastically purchased jewellery is going home. Much of it
USA, and while we worried of nuclear annihilation, we discovered is eminently saleable, and the pieces from the 1970’s are pretty much
polished surfaces on gold again, and we also discovered coloured gems. being melted for gold content. We expect to see more and more vintage
The world was becoming smaller, and there was a great palette of colour jewellery coming through the lab as the year progresses. [CJ]

marketwatch
Choose Your
Colours Wisely
Coloured gem jewellery is gaining in popularity, though how
do you choose which precious hues to sell in your store?
B y Robin Gambhir
H
ow do you choose the coloured gem jewellery that goes into your activity at any checkout in any of their stores in real time. That is what
showcase? Chances are, it depends on who your suppliers are and OpenBlue does. It logs anonymous consumer shopping patterns across
what they are offering for the season. Manufacturers generally a wide array of merchandise and categories and reports that back to the
create their lines based upon what is selling well and where they see the suppliers and retailers on our network, and exclusively here in the pages
market going. Deciding what to make, for jewellers or anyone for that of Canadian Jeweller.
matter, is an imprecise science at best. That is why forecasting trends is such
a big business; nobody wants to be the one going to market with the wrong For coloured gem jewellery, we allow consumers to shop by colour or by
product, in the wrong colour. gemstone. That means a shopper can see all of the rings, earrings or pendants
in red for example, all in one place. All the while, we are recording how the
As a hedge against risk, corporations have long relied on market consumer shops. It also means that not only can we tell you which colours
intelligence data and forecasting to stave off failure. Some companies, such consumers are shopping for, but we can also rank the most popular styles.
as Home Depot, have systems in place that allow their CEO to monitor the How those styles and colours get to be popular is a perennial question.
038-041.CJ_MarketWatch.indd 38 3/25/09 4:46:51 PM

2009 Spring Fashion Colours
From New York Fashion Week, September 5-12, 2008.
Fuchsia Red Dark Citron

PANTONE 18-2328 PANTONE 16-0435
Salmon Rose Lavender

Palace Blue Vibrant Green

Lucite Green Slate Gray

Super Lemon Rose Dust

MIRKO ENGRAVING LTD How People Forecast Colour

Pantone is the company that standardized colours for the printing
industry in 1963 by producing flipbooks of colours where each tint was
assigned a unique number. At its founding, Pantone originally produced
OVER 25 colour cards for cosmetics companies. More recently, the Company
has been producing the “Pantone Color Report.” Published seasonally,
YEARS Pantone looks at what is happening in the world of fashion and interior
EXPERIENCE design to come up with a palette of colours for the season. You can visit
Pantone’s website for a video of Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of
21 Dundas Square the Pantone Color Institute, explaining their methodology. Now, chances
Suite 1006 are, most people have never heard of this report. And that is why Pantone
Toronto, ON started the Color of the Year in 2005 in an effort to raise its profile and
M5B 1B7 influence. Pantone’s (and competitors like The Color Assocation of the
United States) seasonal palette's serve as a reference point to colour.
Jewellery Follows Fashion

With bridal jewellery serving as the exception, jewellery is an accessory
to clothing. That means that jewellery follows fashion and not the other
way around. So if you want to know what sort of colours are going to be
in demand, is is probably wise to watch the fashion industry. From that
A MASTER’S perspective, the Pantone Color Report may be useful because it showcases
fashion designers and the colours they are using.
TOUCH IN
HAND ENGRAVING In our top 20 list for coloured gem jewellery, the first three items are
multi-coloured, which is a change from last year. Multiple colours are
416-878-6877 also reflected in three of the designs shown in the Pantone report. And
mirkoengraving.ca the palette in the Spring 2009 report is reflected in the pink tourmaline,
amethyst, tanzanite, citrine and other gems shown in our list. [CJ]

marketwatch
Top 20 Coloured Gemstone Jewellery
Rank 1 Rank 11
Forever Ring Model 2207
Model F2592
Rank 2 Rank 12
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000.CJ_CMP Asia ad .indd 1

3/25/09 5:47:53 PM
Out of Sight
By fusing sheer creativity with the latest in technology,
Mirage Creations’ designs are in a class all their own.
by bryan soroka
Couture collection butterfly brooch:

4.50ct of custom cut taper princess.
Onyx and Blue Lapis inlay.
I
t was back in 1996 when Michael Sapir and Eli Goldstein put their In order to vault invisible setting into the next millennium, Mirage
imaginations to work. Following several years of research, the developed a way of setting and manufacturing in Canada that
co-founders of Mirage Creations, Inc. developed a proprietary nobody else had previously done. “We trained our own cutters,
diamond setting process, which is based on a 20th Century technique setters… we even altered certain tools and machinery to be more
practiced by renowned jewellers such as Cartier and Van Cleef. precise, and developed many types of specially cut stones.” Mr.
Sapir comments and goes on to say that while Mirage is very strong
This highly specialized process is invisibly hand-setting diamonds. For in micro pavé and pavé work, the Company is best known for its
those unfamiliar with the art, this manner of setting diamonds and invisible settings. Co-owner, Mr. Goldstein, elaborates on the
precious stones does away with prongs, channels, bezels and beads or process. “Before our special process invisible setting wasn’t very
overlapping metal that are typically required to hold them in place. well done in North America. But we researched and found a way to
Instead, invisibly set stones are cut with notches and grooves that fit adopt technology into it, creating perfect dimensions for diamonds
together much like the pieces of a puzzle, with the interlocking diamonds to create beautiful finished jewellery.” Via old-world craftsmanship
held securely in place by a specially formed network of I-Beam shaped and utilizing the very latest CAD/CAM design and CNC technology,
tracks underneath the diamond surface. “I think it’s the most reliable the manufacturer has indeed taken the art of invisibly set jewellery
way to set stones,” says Mr. Sapir. “And the most beautiful as well.” to the next level.
042-045.CJ_Company copy.indd 42 3/30/09 9:19:10 AM

companyprofile
Eli Goldstein Michael Sapir
A shining example of this old-school craftsmanship commingled with

new-world technology is Mirage’s World Peace Egg. The masterpiece
165mm tall, 252.60 carats plus a 1.89 carat rough, boasts 865 invisibly
set custom princess cut diamonds. “We created it to show the world
that we can do the beautiful work they do in Europe,” Mr. Sapir notes.
“The idea behind the World Peace Egg was to do something that utilizes
our proprietary technology and blend it with our creativity and design,”
adds Mr. Goldstein. “We don’t do status quo.”
Mirage has staked its success by offering a complete lineup of jewellery,

along with the services to back them up. Working predominantly in 18K
gold and platinum, lines include Mirage Couture, the Company’s highest “trialMany people fear technology as there’s a lot of
and error involved when incorporating it into the
end series that features VS and VVS diamonds. M2, meanwhile, is a more
mainstream and middle- to high-end line with approximately 3,000 design and manufacturing process… But you only
different models that fall into the pendant, ring, earring and cufflink
categories. Mirage’s Fire & Ice line features its coloured diamond collection learn by doing it. You have to make mistakes so
and its newest offering, Duets, showcases uniquely cut diamonds with 33
additional facets that are set to look like one single stone.
you can do it right the next time.
”
Above and beyond its world-class designs, Mr. Goldstein says one of
Mirage’s main points of differentiation is its “all under one roof ” array
of services. “There’s not much manufacturing going on in Canada,” he
notes. “We’re one of the few hold outs. The majority of production goes
to different trades people for setting, casting, etc. There’s no quality
control.” Mr. Goldstein goes on to say that jewellery retailers turn to
Mirage because it provides a complete line of manufacturing services.
“We do it all with quality and good turnaround,” he adds. “We can easily
modify [pieces] because we do everything here. That makes it convenient
for retailers… to have one-on-one interaction so they can supply their
customer with an exceptional quality, finished product at a good price.”

“something
Our designs appeal to people who like
different… something they can’t
find anywhere else.
”
Mirage employs two full-time designers, who are constantly envisioning

new designs and ways to execute them. “[Our] designs are inspired by
the different trends in the jewellery and fashion industries,” Mr. Sapir
states. “We’re usually ahead of the Canadian market… visiting Europe
and finding out what the popular styles are.” The Mirage Duets line is made up of 35 models incorporating Mirage
Cut Diamonds. These special diamonds have an additional thirty-
three facets to create vivid fire in each and every stone. The diamonds
Innovation is a cornerstone to the manufacturer’s success. It was one are invisibly set to create the illusion of a single large diamond at a
of the first companies to introduce black diamonds into its designs fraction of the cost.
along with special cuts of coloured stones. Both Mr. Sapir and
Mr. Goldstein lend their imaginations to design concepts as well.
“Michael travels a lot and goes to all the shows and gets ideas,”
Mr. Goldstein notes, “with invisible settings there are many complex
designs that only lend themselves to that type of setting. That’s what
makes it so unique.”
In all, the Company includes 35 members. “We’ve got diamond setters,

cutters, designers, technical staff, administration, quality control… it’s
full service,” Mr. Sapir points out. Mainly distributing to wholesalers
and dealing directly with a wide range of retailers, Mirage focuses on
the Canadian market for the most part. “We’re here so we know what
people want,” notes Mr. Goldstein, who adds that the Company does
deal with some U.S.-based retailers, though mainly with owner/operator
stores that deal in high quality pieces. “We’ve been approached many
times by U.S. chains, but you’re competing for the lowest margin and
quality,” Mr. Goldstein says. “Because we’re small enough, we can serve
smaller stores to medium-sized chains. Our hierarchy is very hands-
on — we develop relationships with our customers. It’s not a corporate
type thing.”

companyprofile
The Mirage Fire and Ice

collection exhibits jewellery
using blue, yellow, green, brown
and black diamonds. Combined
with white diamond accents,
this creates a striking and vivid
contrast.
“We manufacture a lot of men’s jewellery — rings, cufflinks. But we

mainly deal with women’s styles,” Mr. Sapir says and adds that Mirage
Creations do not typically target the younger market. “Buyers usually
fall into the mid-20s for engagement and bridal,” he states. “For other
pieces… the more high end, buyers can range from the 40s and up. Our
designs appeal to people who like something different… something they
can’t find anywhere else.” Quality control is another point of pride with
the manufacturer. And to ensure every piece meets its exacting standards,
setters engrave their mark on each ring. “That way if there’s a problem, we
can pinpoint it,” Mr. Goldstein explains.
When it comes to world-class design in jewellery, Canada might not be the

first destination that pops up in most people’s thoughts. Mirage’s unique
creations and explicit attention to detail and quality is swaying the vote,
though getting to this point was certainly not easy. “Many people fear
technology as there’s a lot of trial and error involved when incorporating
it into the design and manufacturing process,” Mr. Goldstein says. “But
you only learn by doing it. You have to make mistakes so you can do it
right the next time.”
Mirage Couture eternity band with 140
custom-cut hexagon diamonds. 12.75ct. It is this passion for discovering new territories that has helped Mirage
ascend to its current high standing within the design community, and the
Company has no plans to stop searching for ways to create, and of course,
service, even more distinctive offerings. “Service, quality and attention to
detail. That’s what sets us apart,” Mr. Goldstein concludes. “We’re proud of
what we’ve done, and our plans are to keep on introducing pieces that you
won’t find anywhere else. That’s what Mirage is all about.” [CJ]

046-051.CJ_CoverStory.indd 46 3/27/09 9:37:44 AM

coverstory
A Super Strategy A solid mix of top brands, full-service

and pooling its business into one
“super-centre” business concept
has proven to be the keys to Damiani
Jewellers’ longevity.
By Bryan Soroka
T
o map out the Woodbridge, Ontario Damiani Jewellers’
beginnings, you have to travel some 2,700 kilometres
northwest and go back over half a century. Because it was
in northern Alberta in 1952 where Franco Damiani would begin
his journey that would eventually lead him to become a jeweller.
“[Franco] had a background in metal working in Italy,” reminisces
Frank Damiani, Franco’s son, who along with his sister, Anna
Damiani-Celi, co-owns Damiani Jewellers. “He was sponsored
by CN Rail and came to Canada and worked on the railroad.” As
described by his son, Franco slept in a boxcar with a coal stove the
only means to warm up in the sub-zero degree weather. “It was
rough, but when he finished with CN, he went to Hamilton to visit
a friend and got into the painting business.” Which still does not
describe how Franco got into the jewellery trade, though running
into another acquaintance, this one a watchmaker, certainly does.
“His friend was from Italy, too, and he couldn’t find work,” Mr.
Damiani details. “So he and my father opened a store repairing
watches on Eglinton Avenue in Toronto.”
After just three months in, though, Franco’s colleague left the
business, which spurred Franco to learn how to repair watches and
jewellery himself. Struggling to make ends meet, Franco’s turning
point arrived when he met Archie Atkins from A&A Jewellery, one
of the largest manufacturers in Canada at the time. “Archie gave
my father rings to sell in his store, which helped him move into a
bigger location, and he continued to expand the business over the
next 20 years.”
A “Super” Strategy
Growing up in Toronto, Frank Damiani earned his degree in
economics from the University of Western Ontario. Following his
education, he toured Europe where he was exposed to different
cultures. This would prove to be an invaluable experience that would
help him take Damiani Jewellers to the next level, which he joined
when he came back home. “Kenny Atkins, Archie’s brother, was a
major influence on me,” Mr. Damiani notes. “He said the future of
retailing would be ‘Class A’ retailers or power centres… and this
was 20 years before these kinds of stores started opening up.”

Following this epiphany, Mr. Damiani expanded the Woodbridge location. Exceptional Details
“It was modelled after the power centre theory — combining our four When designing the super centre store, Mr. Damiani says he spent a
stores into one.” According to Mr. Damiani, the model he employs to considerable amount of time with the architects. “The concept for the
run the store is taken from something he witnessed during his travels in design revolved around having individual service areas.” All of these
Europe. “I saw this gold market in Milan… a retail outlet for Faro, which areas, or modules, surround the retail section. “Everyone has their own
is one of the largest gold wholesalers in Italy. They opened super centres, work area,” Mr. Damiani says. “Manufacturing, repairs, appraisals —
and we modelled our store after that.” these are all separate.” This layout is intended to make the most of the
store’s 5,000 square feet, with 3,500 square feet of dedicated retail space
Damiani’s “super centre” formula has allowed the retailer to exceed the and the remaining 1,500 allocated to the service modules.
amount of business it does from one store that it used to do with multiple
locations. “This is the seventh store we’ve opened — a big store with a full Other important details when designing the store included a walk-in
assortment of merchandise in the heart of the Woodbridge commercial vault, a lunchroom, security room, “everything we need to give it a luxury
centre,” Mr. Damiani notes. “We built it from the ground up to provide feel,” Mr. Damiani says. As the store continues to evolve, the owner says
full service… it’s the dream store,” which is not an understatement as that he has been influenced by the shop-in-shop motif. Focusing on some
he adds, “Because we operate so cost-effectively, we can offer more of today’s top brands, Damiani’s layout includes dedicated sections to the
competitive prices. It’s allowed us to offer our customers a great sense of likes of Mont Blanc, TAG Heuer, and later this year, it will add another
selection and value.” corner to showcase one of its top performing brands, Rolex.

coverstory
“them
Customers tend to stray, but if you serve
better than anyone else, they have no
choice. It’s not rocket science.
”
FD 3.02 contre carat, 96 points
princess cut, 30 points small stones,
18K white gold.
A Marvelous Mix
“We sell medium to high end merchandise,” Mr. Damiani explains when
asked about his store’s product mix. “And we try to carry the brands that
offer value and deliver them at competitive prices.” Another key to the
retailer’s success is the fact that it provides its clients with full service for
everything it sells. “Watch servicing, gold repair, appraisals… we have it
all,” he says. Yet another service Damiani offers is custom manufacturing.
Via a separate area located above the retail store, Damiani employs several
skilled jewellers, who create custom pieces that further differentiate the
retailer from its competition.
The top performing categories at Damiani are led by bridal. “Nelson does
everything well. I like the value,” Mr. Damiani points out. “Michael B. has
some of the most beautiful pieces and A. Jaffe has bulletproof product at a
fair price.” Other bridal lines the retailer features include Diana, Scott Kay,
ArtCarved, Borra, La4ve and Ritani. Timepieces are also solid performers.
“We’ve had strong growth with TAG,” Mr. Damiani says. “Rolex is our
most important line, though, and they’ve introduced some exciting new
models this year… I can’t keep them in stock.” Damiani also features such
noted watchmakers as Raymond Weil, Fendi, Movado, Citizen, Bulova
and Aerowatch. Yet another of the retailer’s top performing categories,
meanwhile, is diamonds as Mr. Damiani notes, “The big numbers are
diamond jewellery and loose diamonds.”
For giftware, the co-owner mentions Mont Blanc as a leader, and

adds that silver jewellery has been growing in popularity. “[Silver] is
becoming a more important part of our business.” When it comes to
silver pieces, the retailer points out Pandora as one of the best selling
lines. “People like these products because you can add and take away
the charms,” Mr. Damiani notes. “They like the idea of having jewellery
with different looks.”

Overseeing Damiani Jewellers’ day-to-day operations is a team of 12 Insofar as how Damiani customers have evolved over the years, Mr.
dedicated experts. When it comes to training employees, Mr. Damiani says Damiani says that typically they are much better informed. “They’re also
that his approach is quite simple, yet very effective. “Basically, new hires more demanding and their tastes have changed,” he notes and specifically
shadow one of our most skilled, experienced sales people,” he explains. cites an increasing demand for white metals, diamonds and brand names.
“New employees also spend time with our watchmaker, appraiser… all of So what keeps these consumers coming back for more? “We do it better. It’s
our experts.” To make sure staff members provide their clientele with the not something I say lightly,” Mr. Damiani says. “From store design, services,
best possible information, several Damiani staff have completed the GIA pricing, experienced sales staff — it’s the Damiani family experience.”
diamond course, along with other educational courses provided by some
of the brands the retailer represents, such as TAG. The combination of With over half a century of experience behind them, the professionals
service and a family feel obviously sits well with the retailer’s staff. “Most at Damiani Jewellers have a strong sense of how to keep their customers
employees have been with us for over 20 years,” Mr. Damiani says. “One satisfied. “The trick is doing the right job every time to keep them coming
has been here for 47 years.” back for more,” Mr. Damiani notes. “Customers tend to stray, but if you serve
them better than anyone else, they have no choice. It’s not rocket science.”
Brilliant Buyers
Another strong suit of the retailer is that it attracts a wide spectrum of Superb Strategies
customers. “We have our traditional base… the Italian community,” Mr. Much of the retailer’s marketing is financed via co-op dollars from the
Damiani states. “And we also are fortunate to have other customers that likes of the top brands it carries. Mediums used to convey the Damiani
come from a diverse background.” Which explains why Damiani sales message include some newspaper and more prominently, targeted
associates also originate from many different locales and speak Russian, television spots. “I’ve found television gives you a visual for the same cost
Italian, Mandarin, Hungarian, Spanish, Cantonese, Portuguese and as radio,” Mr. Damiani says while adding, “For special events, we do some
Arabic, just to name a few. radio — but the best marketing tool is beating the competition.”
Rolex Yacht Master II, white dial

18K yellow gold with ceramic bezel.

coverstory
Damiani’s website also plays into its marketing mix. “The site has been
running for five, six years now… it showcases our diamond inventory,”
Mr. Damiani says. “People actually come into the store with printouts.”
3. The website is a tool to visually communicate the retailer’s wares, though,
and it does not sell any merchandise online. This strategy falls in line
with Damiani Jeweller’s overall philosophy of selling. “Marketing is the
art of trying to get more, but my strategy is doing the right job better
and for less.”
2.
A Fabulous Future
Like all retailers, Damiani has been faced with meeting the emerging
needs and demands of a changing marketplace. “The information age
has dramatically affected retail. It’s more competitive, tastes change more
quickly — you have to adapt or you’ll be left behind,” Mr. Damiani says
emphatically. “You need a fresh product mix to attract young consumers
or we risk becoming dinosaurs… while also making sure you carry the
merchandise that appeals to the more experienced jewellery buyer. It’s a
1.
fine line.”
And it is a line that Damiani has managed to remain balanced upon for
1. Plutarco Inc. Fancy yellow radiant VS diamond, 2.54 carat, over 50 years. As to what the future holds for the retailer, its co-owner says
trapazoid: 1.32 carat, 28 smaller diamonds: 35 points. that he sees a more devout focus on renowned brands commingled with an
eclectic mix of high-end jewellery. “People want quality,” he concludes. “But
2. Nelson 2.21 centre carat, 54 small stones (39 points), 18K white gold.
at a price that makes sense and with service that they can always depend
3. FD 3.02 centre carat, 96 points princess cut, 30 points small stones, on. That’s what we’ve been doing since we first started doing business, and
18K white gold. it’s what we’ll keep doing to make sure we stay on top.” [CJ]

24K gold hand-hammered Lush
earrings, bracelet, necklace and
dome ring by Gurhan.
ce n
n e ed e
sir ad
m
.
as
a
h
t de
a
Selling Per m
h o
i s w till s
gold t is s
i t y o f hy i
l
g qua and w
n
e n duri ive —
The pen
s
e x
it so . Ho
od
ah
B
By Sar
052-055.CJ_Gold.indd 52 3/25/09 4:53:16 PM

goldfeature
I
n troubled world markets and ailing economies, nothing is more they’re spending. They really want quality, nice design, something
reassuring than the gleam of gold. Ironically, this very confidence unique,” she says.
in its enduring value has driven the price of the precious metal up
to new heights, which has certainly created new challenges for the retail “In a challenging economy, when consumer confidence is at an all-time
jewellery industry. low, shoppers are looking for gifts and luxuries that stand the test of
time. Gold is well positioned in a down economy, because gold truly
The long-held record of $850 per ounce was broken back on January is a wise investment,” says Duvall O’Steen, Director of Jewelry PR and
3, 2008, and only a few weeks later gold prices reached a new high Promotion with the World Gold Council.
of $1,002.80. After subsiding slightly in late 2008, prices have been
rising more or less steadily, and in February 2009, gold was once again Women, of course, continue to be key drivers of jewellery sales. “You
flirting with the $1,000 mark. However, not every jewellery retailer is can really play to the hearts of women,” says Tecimer. “If you make it
downhearted. beautiful enough, I think people will want it, always.”
“I think people forget that over the past 10 or 20 years, the price of “Women love bold jewellery, and a lot of it is self-purchase,” says Anny
everything has doubled or tripled; gold just happened to do it all of Kazanjian, Divisional Vice President of Public Relations and Events for
a sudden,” observes Karolin Tecimer of Toronto’s Tecimer Jewellery, Birks & Mayors. “Women have the disposable income and they make
who mainly deals in pieces imported from Italy. Consumers are still decisions — go figure! The reason the right-hand ring campaign took
buying, however, “we are finding people are becoming choosier when off so well is women are making decisions.”
18K gold Lace Cuff, Mother of Love

cameo pendant, two tiered hoops with
inlayed opal by Julie Baker Design.
052-055.CJ_Gold.indd 53 3/25/09 4:53:24 PM

In fact, in February 2009, the World Gold Council released the results of
its study into the gold jewellery buying habits of 7,500 women in India,
China, Saudi Arabia, Italy, Turkey and the U.S. Their key finding was that,
for women in all these countries, the primary motivation for buying gold
jewellery is “because it is everlasting.” The rising price has only increased
the appreciation of gold, while, especially in the U.S. and China, gold
was also shown to be valued as a “symbol of love.”
However, since the last survey in 2005, gold is facing more

competition from electronic items such as cell phones when it
comes to discretionary spending, with its sentimental value being
its strongest asset. “When compared to other popular indulgences
like high-end handbags, shoes, spa services, personal electronics,
gold is timeless. It never goes out of style,” says O’Steen.
The study also found that, from the point of view of fashion, gold —
particularly yellow gold — is seen as increasingly desirable. “Gold
happens to be enjoying a huge renaissance in the fashion world. Gold
jewellery is not only a must-have fashion accessory, but also fabrics,
shoes, hardware on handbags are also all gold,” O’Steen says, citing as
one example the lavish spread in the March 2009 issue of Vogue.
“Rose gold is increasingly popular,” she continues, “a trend that stems

from European designers, but is now incorporated into almost every
designer jewellery line. It offers a lovely feminine allure for the woman
with an already well-developed gold jewellery wardrobe who is looking
for something new. Because it works well with all skin tones, rose gold is
fairly easy to sell and works well with a lot of the feminine fashions.”
Kazanjian says pink gold is also “one of the most beautiful trends right
now gaining a major foothold in the bridal sector. Pink is a colour, but
pink is also an attitude, and some of us do see the world in rose-tinted
glasses. People love the newness. We’ve just launched the Amorique
diamond with the pink gold,” she adds.
24K gold Double Olive Pit

bracelet by Erhan Gursen.
052-055.CJ_Gold.indd 54 3/25/09 4:53:31 PM

goldfeature
“must
Because gold is so expensive, jewellers
apply a higher level of workmanship to
it to separate themselves from the rest.
”
“It took a while for people to get used to it in Canada, but now we’re really
20K gold Serenity collection with
seeing pink,” says Tecimer. She singles out “a cushion-shaped amethyst
Madero citrine caboshan, diamonds
ring with rose gold. It’s a dramatic piece and people are really receptive & oliver quartz caboshan.
to it.” Mixing colours is also popular, she says, noting that pink gold
with white, pink with coloured stones, and yellow gold with white are all
winning combinations.
“In our spring collection, we have a stunning silver necklace, and the
centerpiece is a gold ball,” says Kazanjian. “It’s a coming together of the
silver and the gold. Marrying different materials, different stones, this is Gold Advertisers in this issue
where creativity goes full-tilt.”
Atlantic Engraving
t: 416.555.5555
“There is definitely a movement towards yellow gold, and gold that is
e: atlanticeng@bellnet.ca
chased with applications to the finish that make it more interesting,” says
Michael daCosta of Fortunes Fine Jewellers in Toronto. “Because gold is CGM
so expensive, jewellers must apply a higher level of workmanship to it to t: 818.609.7088
separate themselves from the rest.” w: www.cgmfindings.com
e: cgm@cgmfindings.com
O’Steen enumerates other popular trends, like Asian and African Gee N’ Gee Importers
influences; the celebrity-driven obsession with gold hoops, and the t: 604.684.1131
continuing fascination with armloads of gold bangles or chunky cuffs. w: www.geengee.com
There is also growth potential in areas that are now niche markets. For e: dhiren@geengee.com
instance, designer Robin Gray of Toronto’s Organic Metal Gallery says,
Jomark
“the thing I’m selling most right now is actually my expertise”. Because
t: 416.606.0369
she works with recycled gold, her clients often consult with her about e: jomarkgold@yahoo.com
remaking heirloom pieces.
J.S.N. Jewellery
“People are still buying,” says Kazanjian. “Jewellery with noble materials t: 1.800.470.7374
will always stand the test of time. As a society, Canadians would rather w: www.jsnjewellery.com
buy a smaller diamond, but a better quality diamond. They want quality
and value.” Mirage
t: 416.366.7473
w: www.miragecreations.com
“It’s important in these times not to cut back on your merchandise, because
people really want a choice. When people cut back on quality, that’s just a Pandora Jewellery
double-edged sword,” says Tecimer. “People are working harder than ever, t: 416.626.1211
and whether they’re going to spend money on a weekend away or a really w: www.pandora-jewelry.com
nice bracelet, it’s up to the retailer to tempt it out of them.” [CJ]
052-055.CJ_Gold.indd 55 3/25/09 4:53:36 PM

First Impressions
What does it take to create winning window displays? Planning, storytelling and
appealing to your customers’ senses and emotions.
B y Glen A. B eres
C
reating an attractive, eye-catching window display is one of the most “Your window is the first impression shoppers will have of your store. It is
effective (and easiest) ways that retailers can separate themselves your ‘silent salesperson,’ and it should be an extension of your brand.”
from their competitors and entice shoppers into the store. Window
displays can serve as a means of spotlighting key merchandise, reinforcing If you are on a tight budget (and in today’s economy, this holds true for
your brand image, advertising your unique appeal, drawing in foot traffic, many retailers), your window display provides a cost-effective means in
and “planting the seed” to return in the minds of shoppers who pass by which to update your look and remain fresh in the eyes of your customers.
your store after hours. But developing compelling window displays does The key in creating winning window displays is providing a “feast for
not just happen — it takes a lot of planning and just as much creativity. the senses” that delights your customers. This means utilizing different
colours, props, materials, textures, lighting, advertising messages, displays,
The first step is to decide what you want to achieve with your display packaging and other elements to make your window stand out. You also
and determine how your can develop a presentation that best serves should use elements that are consistent with your brand and the look and
that goal and relates to your customers. For instance, if your key atmosphere of your store, Levine stresses.
customer base is women in the 40-60 age range, you might want to
consider using materials, visuals and themes that are aspirational, yet Furthermore, your window should “tell a story.” If you are highlighting
something they may find in their homes, in the stores they frequent, a specific collection, Levine advises to use “place mats,” as well as
or in the spas they visit. “Think of your window as an advertising risers of different heights, shapes, colours, materials and dimensions
vehicle, not just a merchandising vehicle,” says visual merchandising to achieve maximum impact and impart a sense of progression through
expert Pam Levine, president of Levine Design Group in New York City. the presentation.
58-61CJ_Window.indd 56 3/25/09 4:59:25 PM

merchandisingstrategies
“customer…
The idea is to project positive reinforcement to the
you need to consider how your window
can engage all of the customer’s senses.
”
Lighting in particular is very important. Levine and other experts advise

using spotlights in windows to really showcase the merchandise and create
an emotional reaction in the customer. Colour is another central element
of successful window displays. For instance, a fall-themed window should
utilize fall hues such as orange, red or brown (with materials as well as
merchandise). A bridal-themed window, meanwhile, should emphasize
white colours and white merchandise including diamonds, pearls and
white metals.
As far as size is concerned, font and colour of text, these should all play
off of your store’s unique brand image. When Levine works with retail
clients, she helps them develop a position statement that says what the
store stands for and the client base it serves. Whether the store’s emphasis
is classic or modern, bridal or fashion, etc., determines the type of font to
use, as well as the look of banners and other signage that will be included
in the window. Levine has used engraving, etched glass, calligraphy and
other distinct written presentations to create memorable window displays.
Developing a position statement also helps you pull out a compelling
tagline that can be used in your window and in all of your advertising and
marketing pursuits.
One element that is often overlooked when developing an effective

window display is language. Levine says that one thing she has done that
has worked well for her retail clients is to create and utilize upbeat tag
lines, quotes, poems and other positive messages. “The idea is to project
positive reinforcement to the customer despite the dour economy,” she
says. “You need to consider how your window can engage all of the
customer’s senses.”
Key Mistakes Retailers Make with Window Displays

One of the biggest mistakes jewellers make in developing their window
displays is relying too heavily on the brand labels they are carrying. Ken
Morrison, a partner in the design firm Philip Williams Associates LLC,
has worked on window displays for jewellers and other retailers as well as
trade show booth displays for noted industry names including Mikimoto,
World Gold Council and Gemveto. Morrison observes that some jewellers
tend to focus on highlighting recognizable brand names sold in the store,
and using stock materials supplied by those labels, rather than creating
a truly unique brand image and statement of their own due to corporate
pressure. “I don’t think that aesthetics and creativity are as highly
regarded as in the past, especially in this economic environment,” he says.
“A lot of companies are worried about their bottom lines, they have a lot
invested in the brands they carry, and their store displays are dictated by
corporate policy.”
58-61CJ_Window.indd 57 3/25/09 4:59:32 PM

10 Tips for Creating the Perfect Window Display
1. Come up with a “game plan.” Decide what you want to achieve

with your window — advertising your brand, spotlighting
your merchandise, etc. — and develop a display that tells the story.
2. Less is more. Don’t crowd window or display cases. Highlight your

merchandise like a piece of art, giving customers space to focus on a
piece and appreciate it.
3. Stay true to your brand. Displays should be consistent with your store
image and brand. Use your windows to reinforce what makes you
unique. Repeat colours, textures, shapes, language, décor, packaging
advertising and other elements found in your store.
4. Create focal points. Focal points draw the eye to specific items or
elements and form the basis of a presentation you can build your
display around.
5. Use contrasting visuals. Mixing different colors, text and levels in

your display keeps the customer’s eye moving and creates surprise
and drama.
6. What’s in a name… everything! Always include your store

name in your display to remind customers who you are.
7. Refresh and renew. Change your displays often (experts suggest

every 1-2 months). You don’t have to change everything each time;
changing one or two elements regularly (such as merchandise, theme,
displays, props, signage, colours, textures, etc.) will keep your window
interesting and fresh.
8. Recycle. Keep an eye on what other retailers are doing (not necessarily
jewellers) for ideas you can reuse and adapt for your own displays.
9. Don’t duplicate. Never show multiple copies of one item in

your window; every piece in the display should be a work of
art that makes its own statement as part of the total presentation.
10. Use a professional. Unless you or someone on your staff is highly

artistic and creative and/or has the proper training and experience,
it’s always best to employ a visual merchandising expert to develop
memorable window displays for your store.
58-61CJ_Window.indd 58 3/25/09 4:59:37 PM

merchandisingstrategies
Things to avoid when developing your display:
• Using windows strictly to showcase certain merchandise

with little or no design, branding or advertising elements.
• Going the opposite way with displays that are too esoteric to
be understood by most customers (some of which may not even
include any merchandise).
• Using design themes or elements that are not represented within

your store environment, which can cause customers coming inside
to feel confused or misled.
• “Overpropping” — cluttering up displays with too many props,

too much merchandise, or too many visuals, which can confuse
customers and dilute the overall message of the presentation.
• Using “cookie cutter” displays, signage, and other generic design

elements supplied by vendors without giving any thought to
creating a unique look and feel that represents something special
about their store. [CJ]
Canadia
n
Rockies
Design
Compe
tition

Seminars August 15th, 10:00am to 4:00pm at the Shaw
ntre
erence Ce
Shaw Conf
58-61CJ_Window.indd 59 3/25/09 4:59:40 PM

Sparkleand
Shine
Winning Toronto designers discuss top
gemstone trends at the AGTA Spectrum Awards.
B y Sarah B. H ood
O
n Saturday, February 7, the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA)
celebrated the 25th anniversary of its prestigious Spectrum Awards.
Winning pieces, executed using both traditional and newly created
tools and techniques, pushed the boundaries of the craft while embodying
some of the hottest trends of the moment.
Best of Show went to New York’s Frederic Sage for his arresting “Enchanted
Stallion” brooch. It dramatically depicts the head of a horse with flowing
mane and flaring nostrils, hand carved of mottled deep green
natural turquoise, bridled and surrounded by an intricately
flowing ribbon of 18K green and white gold studded with
white diamonds and demantoid garnets.
Toronto-based designer, Julie Buckareff of JJ Buckar came

away with two awards. Her “Ribbons” ring came second
in the Evening Wear category. Featuring a striking
11.50-carat tanzanite, the ring has a double band of
platinum set with 1,166 ideal-cut pavé diamonds.
“The piece that we did couldn’t have been done without

CAD-CAM technology,” she says. “You make it in virtual
reality. My husband [Jacob Buckareff] looked at hand-making
it, but he said it would be a much better ring if it were made
with CAD-CAM. He individually placed a pinpoint where each
and every stone should go, and the setter actually did true pavé
by hand.”
1st Place Classical

Gregore Morin’s 18K white and yellow gold frog
brooch featuring opals (2.32 ctw.), moonstones
(1.08 ctw.) and pink sapphires (.03 ctw.).
060-063.CJ_AGTA.indd 60 3/25/09 5:07:35 PM

agtafeature
Buckareff ’s second award was an Honorable Mention in the Classical

category for a very different piece — an 18-karat yellow gold cameo featuring
a carved shell accented with white diamonds, tsavorite and spessartite
garnets, rare paraiba tourmalines and pink, blue and yellow sapphires.
“It was worked on about two years. What’s special about it is that the
back opens up like a gate, and lockets with space for six large pictures
fold out like an accordion. We made it so it could sit up, and it can
be worn either as a brooch or a pendant,” she says. “All of the frames
inside were hand engraved. There was no new technology used in
this cameo; everything was completely hand done.”
Michael daCosta of Fortune’s Fine Jewellers in Toronto won

Platinum Honors in the Evening Wear category for his stunning
rose-shaped platinum brooch featuring brown, yellow and white
diamonds, pink and yellow sapphires and rubies. He had only entered
the competition once before, but says that this year, “the piece we made
was of a standard that I thought they would give their attention to, because
it was remarkable.”
Best Use of Color and Fashion Forward

James W. Currens’ platinum “Kaleidoscope X2” ring featuring an
85 ct. Crystal surrounding diamonds (10.13 ctw.), amethysts (2.50 ctw.),
aquamarines (1.45 ctw.), fire opals (.90 ctw.), topaz (1.10 ctw.), citrines
(4.89 ctw.), garnets (2.13 ctw.) and tourmalines (2.85 ctw.).
He explains “although it is of a rose, it is not anatomical; it’s an expression

of a rose, so you get the fading into an abstraction in the middle.” DaCosta
wanted “to attain something that was very, very striking and fresh looking.
You see a lot of flowers that are done in monochrome and gradients of
the same colour, but nothing where it looks as painterly as this does.
I wanted to achieve that quality to escape the monochrome and do
something that was a bit more daring in terms of the application of
colour, to make it appear as though it were done it broad strokes,
like Van Gogh.”
The piece has already found a buyer, and daCosta is in the process
of fabricating a matching necklace that can be worn alone, or with
the brooch as a pendant. “It is made of platinum in a leaf and
laurel style, and it will be set strikingly with tsavorite garnets,
natural yellow diamonds and white diamonds,” he says. “When
you want to dress it up, you can attach it to this magnificent
flower so it will look absolutely gorgeous.”
Best of Show
Frederic Sage’s “Enchanted Stallion” brooch featuring
158.26 ct. hand-carved natural turquoise, white
diamonds (3.77 ctw.) and demantoid garnets (.16 ctw.)
set in 18K green and white gold.
060-063.CJ_AGTA.indd 61 3/25/09 5:07:43 PM

Taken altogether, the Spectrum Award winners embodied several
important trends that may be expected to be in demand over the next
few seasons. For those who can afford it, big and bold is still the order
of the day. “The big, bold coloured ring thing really got its start in the
Spectrum Awards and really took hold,” says AGTA Marketing Manager “muted,
You see larger stones, but the colours are more
so you get an offering of moonstones and
Adam Graham. “Even though we might not have seen it in the winners, at
our Editor Event any big colourful gemstones and any big stacked bangles chalcedonies; there was even a piece that had a
were it.”
”
large star rose quartz,
Although the stones may be big, they tend to offer soft moonlight colours
and levels of translucence. “We definitely saw an increase in the number
of moonstone entries, a type of gemstone that offers a phenomenal effect;
it seems to be a general moonstone trend,” says Graham. “In fact I just
had an email about a moonstone engagement ring that was used in one
of the soap operas.”
“You see larger stones, but the colours are more muted, so you
get an offering of moonstones and chalcedonies; there
was even a piece that had a large star rose quartz,”
says daCosta (referring to Jennifer Rabe
Morin’s second-place winner in the Business/
Day Wear category). “Using those and then
accenting them with either pastel colours
or with brighter colours gives you a nice
contrast, and there’s a certain elegance
about those stones.”
Platinum Honors Evening Wear

Michael daCosta’s platinum brooch featuring a .57 ct.
brown diamond accented with yellow diamonds (.52
ctw.), rubies, pink and yellow sapphires (9.15 ctw.)
and white diamonds (1.58 ctw.).
060-063.CJ_AGTA.indd 62 3/25/09 5:07:49 PM

agtafeature
“quality
That’s what I think Spectrum is, superb
stones with a fresh approach… being
able to take the tools and the materials we’re
given and make something fresh and new.
”
2nd Place Evening Wear

Julie Buckareff ’s platinum
“Ribbons” ring featuring an
11.50 ct. tanzanite accented with
ideal-cut diamonds (3.50 ctw.).
Finally, while the pink-mauve-purple palette is still popular, deep greens

and blues are clearly coming into their own. Certainly Angelina Jolie added
impetus to this trend when she set off a simple black strapless gown with
Lorraine Schwartz’s stunning 115-carat pair of green emerald briolette-
drop earrings, matched to a 65-carat Colombian emerald cocktail ring at
the 81st Academy Awards in February.
“I was reading about Palace Blue and Lucite Green in the Pantone
colours, and these are what’s hot this year,” says Buckareff. “I saw a lot
of aquamarine and tanzanite. There’s a great pair of platinum earrings
by Evelyn Clothier [third place, Evening Wear] with green beryl drops,
tourmalines and diamonds.”
Llyn L. Strelau of Calgary’s Jewels by Design has participated in the

competition for 25 years. He singles out for special praise Gregore Morin’s
first-place entry in the Classical category, a sparkling blue-green frog
Best Use of Pearls brooch made of white and yellow gold, studded with opals, moonstones
James W. Currens’ platinum and and pink sapphires.
18K yellow gold “Celebration” ring
featuring a 16mm South Sea white
pearl, a 12.5mm South Sea golden Regardless of the current trend, “that’s what I think Spectrum is,” says
pearl, a 14.4mm Tahitian black Strelau, “superb quality stones with a fresh approach… being able to
pearl and a 10.15mm Tahitian black take the tools and the materials we’re given and make something fresh
pearl accented with white and yellow and new.” [CJ]
diamonds (3.76 ctw.).
060-063.CJ_AGTA.indd 63 3/25/09 5:07:54 PM

A Touch of Class
With a mix of Southern California whimsy and
traditional Iranian culture, jewellery designer
Raana Ferdows has created some of the
most popular and unique accessories being
worn today.
B Y BONNIE SIEGLER
T
rained as a graphic artist and painter, Iranian native
Raana Ferdows launched her own Los Angeles design
company with functional and decorative ceramics,
rich in colour and texture. She soon started experimenting
with handmade jewellery, using gold-filled wire for her
delicately woven bracelets that incorporate pearls
and coloured gemstones to make each one a unique
statement piece.
Five years later, Raana’s Touch has adorned many

celebrities who shop in upscale Beverly Hills or
trendy Santa Monica or even film in Manhattan Beach
studios. However, unlike other jewellery designers who simply
court a Hollywood following, others have fallen in love with
Raana’s artistry as well. Maintaining a modest price point,
she has been able to sustain success in this economical Mother Of Pearl with 12 kt
gold filled toggle.
downturn. In an exclusive interview with CJ,
Raana reveals her cultural inspirations and
upcoming work.
064-065.CJ_Designer.indd 64 3/25/09 5:13:22 PM

designerprofile
Turquoise with 12 kt gold

filled wire and clasp
Tundra Sapphire stones with
12 kt gold filled wire.
Canadian Jeweller (CJ): How has your jewellery, along with yourself with jeans for daytime. I like the look of fresh water pearls with silver.
personally, been influenced by the exotic and unique designs of I have a silver bracelet with fresh water pearls that retails for $198.00 and
your country? it always sells out. For spring, I made very light weight gold filled
woven earrings with pearls [$98] and also ones with tundra sapphire.
Raana Ferdows (RF): In the back of my mind, my Iranian culture and And you can mix and match the earrings and bracelets for a really
jewellery is always intertwined and it comes through in my designs. innovative look.
Turquoise is very popular [in Iran] and it’s so richly vivid in colour. If you
live in two different countries, you would speak two different languages so CJ: What do you think are the upcoming spring and summer trends
right now I live in two different cultures so I mix all those influences and in jewellery?
combine it with contemporary twists.
RF: Chains — either worn long or multi-layered. Chains go with
CJ: For many jewellery aficionados, mixing gold and silver is a faux pas. everything. Once you buy one, you can keep it forever and especially in
In your designs, you successfully combine gold and silver metals along today’s economy, you cannot just buy jewellery that is trendy one season
with multi-hued gemstones. and then “out” the next.
RF: I think the look of gold and silver in one piece is interesting. I’m I always suggest people to buy more classic jewellery. It’s a good
not wedded to having just one metal in a piece or even having to mix investment because it won’t go out of style. Instead of buying what’s “in”
turquoise with silver, as it’s done in America because of the Southwest right now, people should buy what they can wear forever and even pass
influence. In Iran, it was always turquoise and gold so I’ve done that in down to their children.
my designs, again mixing traditional with contemporary. But unlike in
my native country where 18k gold is used, I use 12k gold fill, which keeps I have a beautiful gold fill and silver chain mixed with smoky quartz that
the price affordable. With silver, I like navy lapis, smoky quartz and I I just put into stores and it’s already very popular. I’m going back to my
actually like classic pearls with silver. studio and making some using different gemstones such as tundra
sapphire. I’m replenishing stores with a multi-layered chain necklace
CJ: It seems that in each of your collections, you include pearls. Why are made with a mix of oxidized silver that was very popular last season.
pearls always a perennial in your designs? I have seen women wearing my gold and turquoise long necklace
wrapped several times around their wrists to create a multi-layered
RF: I think pearls are very natural, very earthy and very versatile. Pearls bracelet look that is still very dainty and delicate looking, but also creating
are very organic to me. I think you can wear pearls for evening and also a fashion statement. [CJ]
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m APRIL/MAY 2009 CJ 65
064-065.CJ_Designer.indd 65 3/25/09 5:13:28 PM

066-67.CJ Noble DPS.indd 2 3/30/09 9:20:38 AM
066-67.CJ Noble DPS.indd 3

3/30/09 9:20:40 AM
Best in Show
Whether belting out a tune at the 51st Annual
Grammy Awards or attending one of the many
musical events throughout Hollywood and
beyond, jewellery styles of the glitterati were
perfectly in sync.
B y Bonnie Siegler
P
roving that good taste can indeed be learned and worn to
perfection, here is a look at some recent celebrity accessories
du jour seen on stars over the last few months:
Yes, Katy Perry kissed a girl and apparently liked

it, but she also loved her 89-carat Zorab kunzite
and diamond cocktail ring ($38,200) that she
wore to the Clive Davis Pre-Grammy Event. For
rocking the stage Grammy night, Katy dazzled
in six stone round cut diamond drop earrings,
each stone surrounded by micro-pavé set
diamonds set in platinum ($132,100) and
graduated princess cut diamond bracelet set
in platinum ($120,000) by Jacob & Co. at the
Grammy show.
Chandelier earrings
by Neil Lane
Katy Perry
Amy Adams
Amy Adams attended the 61st Annual DGA Awards in Los Angeles
looking like her fairy tale princess character in the film Enchanted. The
actress charmed and captivated everyone with her platinum jewellery by
Neil Lane. Amy chose long diamond chandelier earrings (10 carats total)
and bracelet set with 15 carats of diamonds.
Katy Perry’s
89-carat cocktail ring.
Clive Davis
Pre-Grammy Event
Jacob & Co. diamond braclet

Grammy night
ensemble
068-069.CJ_StarWatch.indd 68 3/25/09 5:18:27 PM

starwatch
Kate Walsh’s Neil Lane platinum, diamond and natural grey coloured pear
shaped diamond (75 carats total) bracelet .
Kate Walsh truly sparkled at the recent Writers Guild Awards in

Hollywood, thanks to the millions of dollars worth of Neil Lane jewellery.
The stunning redhead chose platinum, diamond and natural grey coloured
diamond earrings (25 carats total), paired with a platinum,
diamond and natural grey coloured pear shaped Kate Walsh’s Neil Lane platinum, diamond
diamond (75 carats total) bracelet and platinum and and natural grey coloured diamond
10 carat-diamond ring. (25 carats total) earrings
Kim Kardashian looked splendid in a pair of

14.3-carat rose cut diamond drop earrings with
6-carat tourmaline drop in the centre by Bochic Kate Walsh’s Neil Lane platinum
($18,500) as well as a Bochic 15-carat ring with and 10 carat-diamond ring.
Kate Walsh
a centre diamond stone surrounded by two
rows of diamonds ($78,000).
Kim Kardashian
While Jessica Simpson has

taken some recent heat for Jay Z ‘s Neil Lane platinum and
her fashion choices, she has 5-carat diamond cufflink.
proven that her accessories
are definitely in good taste.
At the recent 44th Annual
Academy of Country Music
Awards nominations event Blinging out his Grammy
held at the Country Music Hall ensemble, and not upstaging his
of Fame in Nashville, Tennessee, Mrs. — Beyonce — Jay Z wore
Jessica wore Bochic dark bakelite platinum and 5-carat diamonds in
and rose cut diamond earrings that his Neil Lane cufflinks, worth over
set off her blonde tresses to perfection. $20,000. [CJ]
Jessica Simpson Jay Z
068-069.CJ_StarWatch.indd 69 3/25/09 5:18:44 PM

editorialboard
Canadian Jeweller’s Editorial Board

Welcomes Frank Damiani
s the second-generation owner of Damiani Jewellers in Woodbridge, store provides customers with an exhaustive array of the most distinctive
Ontario, Frank Damiani upholds a tradition of one of Canada’s most and sought after designs and brands for bridal, watches and giftware.
prominent jewellery retailers for over half a century by combining Mr. Damiani has also been crucial in introducing a complete lineup of
traditional values with contemporary merchandising strategies. During his services for his esteemed clientele, making Damiani Jewellers a true
travels in Europe, Frank witnessed an innovative “super centre” approach one-stop shopping resource for those intrigued by some of the finest
to retailing. He has taken this concept to the next level, and today his jewellery to be found anywhere in the world.
Mark Lash Judy Richards Myles Mindham Brent Trepel

Mark Lash’s Fine Jewellery Davidson’s Jewellers Mindham Fine Jewellery Inc. Ben Moss Jewellers
To find out more about Canadian Jeweller’s Editorial Board,

please contact Olivier Felicio, President and Publisher, at olivier@rivegauchemedia.com.
070.CJ_Editorial.indd 70 3/26/09 10:46:01 AM

000. Noble FP.indd 71

3/25/09 5:59:35 PM
Excellence In Design:Layout 1 3/25/09 5:21 PM Page 1
The Annual E XCELLENCE iN
design
Award Ceremony & Reception
130th Anniversary Celebration
September 13th - 15th, 2009
To find out how you can become a sponsor of this prestigious event, please contact
Olivier Felicio at olivier@rivegauchemedia.com or call 416-203-7900 X 6107.
For complete details on how to enter your designs, contact our

Circulation Department at circulation@rivegauchemedia.com or 416-203-7900 ext. 6118.
Excellence In Design:Layout 1 3/25/09 5:22 PM Page 2
ENTRY FORM
DESIGNER ’ S NAME
COMPANY OR STUDENT AFFILIATION
ADDRESS CITY
PROVINCE POSTAL CODE
PHONE FAX
EMAIL ADDRESS
CATEGORY
TYPE OF JEWELLERY VALUE OF DESIGN ( SPECIFY RETAIL OR MATERIALS )
Describe the piece, including metal used and karat value, gemstone types, weights, cuts and colour. (Complex designs should be accompanied
by technical details.)
ENCLOSED IS : MY FINISHED PIECE ( S ) OF JEWELLERY.

AN ENTRY FEE OF $25 ( CHEQUE CAN BE MADE PAYABLE TO RIVE GAUCHE MEDIA .)
I understand the entry rules and regulations and I abide by those terms.
SIGNATURE
SEND ENTRY FORM TO: Excellence in Design, Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON M4W 3B8.
RULES, REGULATIONS AND INFORMATION

• Jewellery must have been designed and made in own policy to cover your piece or pieces for loss, • Entries will be returned by a courier at the expense of
Canada. theft or damage for the duration of the competition. the designer. To arrange for the return, please contact
• Jewellery must incorporate precious metals and must • In each category, three finalists will be selected. a Canadian Jeweller representive at (416) 203-7900,
adhere to the criteria set out in each category. Judges will then choose an overall winner in during the week of September 7, 2009, and no later
• All gemstones must be natural. Synthetics are each category. than September 18, 2009.
not permitted. Students may substitute CZ for • To enter, submit finished jewellery, an entry form and • Winning entries and all information provided about the
diamonds. a $25 fee for each package. entries may be used for promotional purposes. Slides,
• One submission per designer, per category. • Entry deadline is June 29, 2009, 5 p.m. renderings and other reproductions of the designs,
• Contestant assumes all liability for designs and • Finalists will be displayed and the winners as well as press releases, will also be used for this
jewellery submitted. Although we will take reasonable announced at JCK Toronto, September 13-15, 2009. purpose.
precautions while the jewellery is in our possession, Non-winning entries will be returned the week of Entries will be judged on the basis of originality, creativity,
Canadian Jeweller cannot be responsible for September 21, 2009. Winning entries will be returned beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship.
insuring the jewellery. We suggest you extend your the week of September 25, 2009. Consideration will also be given to marketability.
PAGE GET FREE INFORMATION! on any product advertised in this issue
74 SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…
BY FAX 1. See product you 2. Use this quick 3. Write the 4. Mail or fax us at 5. Receive free info
want info on reference list number(s) on 1-888-849-0155 direct from as
OR MAIL below to find its the attached free or 416-703-6392 many advertisers
free info number info card as you like
(it’s also on the ad)
CONNECT WITH… page write # CONNECT WITH… page write #
CGM Inc. 2 101 Atlantic Engraving Ltd. 18 116

Reed Exhibits - JCK Toronto 4 102 GIA - Reports and Grading System 18 117
Gemological Institute of America (GIA) 5 103 Nova Diamonds Inc. 19 118
OpenBlue Networks 6 104 TrollBeads 25 119
Jewelers Mutual 7 105 Rousseau Canada Inc. 26 120
JSN Jewellery 8 106 MCD Pearl Imports 28 121
JSN Jewellery - Canadian Ice Diamond Collection 9 107 CMP Asia - Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 39 122
Pandora 11 108 Mirko Engraving Ltd. 40 123
Byrex Gems Inc. 13 109 Western Canadian Jewellery Expo 59 124
Atlantic Engraving Ltd. 15 110 Noble Gift Packaging 66-67 125
Pandora - LovePods Collection 16 111 Noble Gift Packaging 71 126
Jeweler’s Mutual 16 112 Reed Exhibits - JCK Las Vegas 75 127
Nova Diamonds Inc. 16 113 Jomark Distributors - Le Gi 83 128
Gee ’N Gee Importers 17 114 Mirage Creations 84 129
Mirage Creations - The Diamond Hoop 18 115
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STEP 2 To qualify, check circles:

 No, don’t send
Selling area of your store
 under 1,000 sq.ft.  1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft.
Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________ Which category best describes your  3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft.  over 5,000 sq.ft.
business classification?
Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________  Education
Approximate annual sales volume
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101
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074.CJ_FaxBack.indd 74 3/27/09 4:04:47 PM

WHERE THE WORLD
COMES TO SHINE.™
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showcase
CJ_APRMAY09_ACE.pdf 2/26/09 9:55:04 AM A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
JEWELLERY POS SYSTEM THAT DELIVERS!

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Arsic Jewelry
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355 St. Andrew Street West
Fergus, ON N1M 1P1
Phone: 519-787-8080
Zoran Arsic is a 35 year veteran
arsicjewelry@bellnet.ca
of watch repair.
Certified to repair:
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When you need repairs or

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000.CJ_Showcase_MarketplaceMar 27.indd 76 3/30/09 10:11:47 AM

showcase
A D V E R T I S I N G
1 3/4/09 1:41 PM
John’s Wholesale Jewelry Ltd.
Page 1
MANUFACTURERS & WHOLESALERS OF FINE JEWELRY

ask for our new catalogue
Mary Jewellery & Lapidary Co. Ltd.

55 Queen Street East, Suite 1210, Toronto, Ontario M5C 1R6
Catalogues available online http://www.maryjewellery.com
Tel: 416.368.8240/888.470.MARY Fax: 416.368.8057/888.248.MARY
JOHN JR. ARABATLIAN PRESIDENT MCD Showcase:Layout 1 2/25/09 10:34 AM Page 1

CELL: 604-250-2158 TEL: 604-689-4190 FAX: 604-689-4139
TOLL FREE: 1-877-80-JOHNS TOLL FREE FAX: 1-888-564-6788
ADDRESS: 900-736 Granville Street, Vancouver, BC V6Z 1G3
pure beauty
has a name...
Exclusively available in Canada through

J.W. HISTED DIAMONDS LTD.
Vancouver, B.C. MCD Pearl Imports
1-800-663-1458 A selection of pearl strands, loose pearls
and pearl jewellery.
Online inventory
www.jwdiamonds.ca 27 Queen St. E., Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6
T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368 2426
All NORDIC FIRE Diamonds are GIA Certified for accurate grading. Email info@mcdpearls.com

showcase
IN
YOUR
JEWELLERY REPAIR
NAME E N V E L O P E
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1
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TO YOUR
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C A N A D A
ALL 1 - 800 661- 4410
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CFTUMJOFPGCSJEBMTBOESJOHNPVOUT maintenance and long-lasting duration of the lamp
allow a high productive efficiency, so that work can
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can be used by an operator with limited experience.
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OUTILLAGES ET MACHINERIES POUR BIJOUTERIE / COMPLETE LINE OF JEWELRY SUPPLIES
Tel : 905-790-2188 FAX: 905-595-0166 Valid while 4 &2%% & %SASSOUNIAN BELLNETCA
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w w w. s o m a l c a n a d a . c o m

marketplace
Urgent ad proof!
To: Gail Sheppard
555 Richmond Street West
Company: CGA
Toronto ON M5V 3B1 Email: info@canadiangemmological.com
T (416) 203-6737 x 317 Phone: 416-785-0962
F (416) 203-1318 From: Kathy Toufighi
kathy@style.ca Pages: 1
www.canadianjeweller.com Date: Oct. 31, 2006
Space: Mrkplc proof in Buyers’ Guide
Please view your ad and fax

back with your approval ASAP.
Date:
e ad 2/25/09 3:11 PM Page 1
EXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD.

PRECIOUS METALS DEALER
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Web: www.xau.ca Shele Letwin
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21 Dundas Square, Suite 401, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Email: GV Design Canada
info@xau.ca THE NEW REVO540C DUAL-SPINDLE MILLING SYSTEM GemVision - “We will show you how.”

marketplace
3/23/09 7:00 PM Page 1

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.
• Cutters of Rough Diamonds

Your Total Source of Quality Tools & Equipment • Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes
• Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds
317 Attwell Drive, Toronto, Ontario M9W 5C1
Telephone: 416-675-9171 21 Dundas Square, Suite 805
Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7
Toll Free : 800-263-6106 www.gesswein.com
24 hr Fax : 888-269-0106 email: sales@gessweincanada Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883
email: lala.diamond@hotmail.com
GOLD DEPOT
PLATINUM CASTING GRAIN, IRIDIUM, RUTHENIUM
Available for Immediate Delivery

All Precious Metals Bought, Traded and Refined
Call our Hotline for Prices: 416-366-GOLD (4653)

Tel: 416-366-6031 and 416-366-8193s&AX416-366-3499
27 Queen Street East, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"
H & W PERRIN Co. Ltd Refine-All Metals Ltd.
Imperial Smelting Marketplace REVad:Layout 1
1/5/09 3:29 PM Page 1 Refining - Assaying - Trading
Canada’s Leading Supplier of Watch & Clock Materials Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap
PERRINS’ stocks a complete range of findings and settings for the jeweller and a
deep stock of materials for the clock & watchmakers Check for our refining specials and alloy products
We inventory a large selection of tools, equipment & supplies for all the trades. At: www.refinegold.ca
A long standing tradition of service since 1929. and www.goldrefiner.ca
If you aren’t doing business with us, you’re doing it the hard way! Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You Refine
PHONE: (416) 422-4600 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-387-5117 Tel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371
FAX: (416) 422-0290 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-741-6139 359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9
Web:www.refinegold.ca www.goldrefiner.ca E-mail: info@refineallmetals.com
� sales@perrin.on.ca
A leader in the Canadian Jewellery

Industry since 1914 Restringing Centre Inc.
All expert pearl restringing done on our premises to our loyal
1-800-263-1669 CUSTOMERSSINCEs7HOLESALEROFPEARLJEWELLERYAND
14kt gold diamond clasps.
905 475-9566 55 Queen Street East Tel: 416-368-9632
Part of the Unicore Group www.imperialproducts.com

Suite 1402
Toronto, ON M5C 1R6
CNC Gold Refining Inc
Fax: 416-368-1833
Toll Free:
Dealers and refiners of Precious Metal1-866-997-9943
Scrap
Canada restringcentre@bellnet.ca
DECEMBER ad While You Wait-Immediate Settlements
9999 Check our State of the art Jewellery Alloys
80 CJ april/may 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m Check Our site for the up-to-date Buy and Sale Prices
At: WWW.goldrefiner.ca
Let Us EarnYour Confidence. Call us Before You Refine
27 Queen Street, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario, M5C 2M6
000.CJ_Showcase_MarketplaceMar 27.indd 80 Tel: 647-430-3643 Fax:647-430-3657 Toll Free:866-553-0130
3/30/09 10:12:05 AM
marketplace
The Diamonds You Need.

Calling
In Stock. Overnight. all Canadian
Jewellery Retailers...
We carry finely cut diamonds ranging

from .01 ct to 3.00 ct in a variety of
shapes including round brilliant,
You’ve probably noticed a change in Canadian Jeweller covers
princess, radiant, ascher, emerald, heart,
pear, marquise and oval. the past few issues, as they’ve featured some of our industries
top retailers. We’re always looking for new businesses to shine a
Included in our inventory are CANADIAN diamonds.
spotlight on, so if you’re interested, we’d love to hear from you.
Selection, Service and Value
a family tradition since 1955 To have your store grace the cover of an upcoming CJ, and to
expose your business to a whole new audience, make sure to send
www.wmolldiamonds.com
Creative gold classified ad April 09:Atkinson’s classifed 3/23/09 7:11 PM Page 1
Phone 416.364.9748 • Toll Free 1.800.361.8894 • Fax 416.364.9738 an email request to paul@rivegauchemedia.com
21 Dundas Square, Suite 1403 • Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7
GBA marketing class.:Layout 1 3/24/09 2:35 PM

classified
Page 1
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Michele Aubie Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6119 or frontdesk@rivegauchemedia.com.
OWNJosefryan
YOUR OWNclassified FULL TIME/PART
ad April 09:Atkinson’s TIME JEWELLER,
classifed 3/23/09 7:11 PM Page 1
RECESSION RESISTANT MODEL MAKER, WITH SETTING
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• High Traffic Locations AGENTS REPS WANTED
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• 25 Year Proven Record manufacturer seeks sales
• Full Training, No Exp Nec. representative for Western Canada.
Call Ian at 1-800-665-0346
WE THRIVE IN ANY ECONOMY! E-Mail: ian@josefryan.com
(800) 359-0407
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lastword
“Gold
Politician James Blakely once said:
beautiful, useful, and never wears out.

is forever. It is
Small wonder that gold has been prized over all else, in all ages, as a
store of value that will survive the travails of life and the ravages of time.
Despite uncertain times, the beauty of gold remains timeless.

” Photograph: Robert Diamante
This Mississippi River Pearl Neckpiece is hand-built of 18 and 22 Karat rose, peach and yellow Ecogold, a 100% post-consumer, recycled gold.
It embodies a truth and a decadence that will last a lifetime.
Created by Stephani Briggs for the 2009 Annual Explorers Club Banquet in New York City.
It features Natural Mississippi River Pearls from mollusks currently threatened by eco-degradation.
097.CJ_LastWord.indd 82 3/25/09 4:32:24 PM

083.CJ Jomark ad.indd 1 3/27/09 2:28:41 PM
EXCEPTIONAL WEDDING BANDS FROM $500 RETAIL
Mirage Creations Inc.

221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4
Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677
www.miragecreations.com e-mail: info@miragecreations.com
084.CJ Mirage ad.indd 1 3/25/09 6:06:57 PM

Canadian Jeweller Magazine AprilMay 2009

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A P R I L / M AY 2 0 0 9

Sparkle and Shine

000.CJ_Cover.indd 4 4/2/09 9:10:33 AM

000.CGM Findings REV ad M13.indd 1 3/25/09 4:10:58 PM

Canadian Jeweller’s Buyers’ Guide is Moving

For all advertising information

000.JCK Toronto ad.indd 1

006.CJ Open Blue Net.indd 1

007.CJ Jewelers Mutual Mar23.indd 1 3/25/09 5:07:29 PM

Olivier Felicio President, Publisher | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com

Bryan Soroka Director, Editorial & Communications | bryan@rivegauchemedia.com

Scott Jordan Art Director | design@rivegauchemedia.com

Melanie Seth Accounting and Administration | finance@rivegauchemedia.com

CONTRIBUTORS Davide Bagnarol, Glen Beres, Philip Feder,

Jeff Yamaguchi ADVERTISING Sales

Melissa Badr circulation Manager

Michele Aubie reception

Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106

Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507

008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 3/25/09 4:16:51 PM

JSN Jewellery ad1.indd 1

60 Sparkle and Shine

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 10 3/26/09 10:38:48 AM

22 For The Record 68 Star Watch

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 12 3/26/09 10:38:53 AM

...MAKE THEM UNFORGETTABLE

CJ_AprilMay09_Pandora.indd 1 3/3/2009 12:24:38 PM

000.CJ Pandora ad.indd 1 3/27/09 2:13:04 PM

very first time. Customers, meanwhile, are those valued individuals

014.CJ_Directors.indd 14 3/25/09 3:56:12 PM

000.CJ. Atlantic Engraving.indd 1 3/25/09 5:32:27 PM

LovePods Collection Sparkles

Selling with Security

The Bouquet of Love

016-018.CJ_Product_re.indd 16 3/25/09 4:05:31 PM

Diamond Hoops Set the Trend

GIA Reports and Grading Systems

016-018.CJ_Product_re.indd 18 3/25/09 4:05:38 PM

We proudly introduce Pour Homme, our new

Our jewellery is hand crafted with the upmost

For more than three decades we have striven to

Now available for men.

Please call to order our new catalogue.

geengee.com toll free: 1.800.663.0177

400 - 736 Granville Street

000.CJ Gee&Gee.indd 1 3/25/09 5:41:05 PM

Exceptional Diamond Jewellery &

221 Victoria St. Lower Level

019.CJ Nova diamonds.indd 1 3/25/09 5:43:33 PM

020-021.CJ_WhosNews_re.indd 20 3/25/09 4:20:08 PM

Jay Jackson Dr. Charles Lein

020-021.CJ_WhosNews_re.indd 21 3/25/09 4:20:33 PM

Forevermark Sees Hong Kong Launch of Precious Collection

022-027.CJ_FTR_re.indd 22 3/25/09 4:36:34 PM

Rio Tinto Donates to the Australian

022-027.CJ_FTR_re.indd 23 3/25/09 4:36:40 PM

022-027.CJ_FTR_re.indd 24 3/25/09 4:36:45 PM

Christie’s 100ct Diamond Named

For details, write #119 on Free Info Page, page 74.

022-027.CJ_FTR_re.indd 25 3/25/09 4:36:53 PM

MCD Pearl Imports

catalogue available upon request

27 Queen St. E., Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6

For details, write #121 on Free Info Page, page 74.