Chapter 31

Cat Costume
Size:
These are generic instructions that can be
used to make ears and tail for any size
person, however, I don't recommend
making this costume for children under 3
years of age.
Materials:
Amounts will vary depending on the size
you make. Below are the amounts I used
to make the ears and tail for my 6 year old
daughter in the picture.
Ears:
Approximately 45m (50 yards) of black
yarn, DK or worsted weight.
1 pair 6mm knitting needles
Handful of polyester toy filling
Tail:
Scraps (approximately 15gms each) of
white, orange, and black yarn, DK or
worsted weight.
1 set 5mm dpns
1 pr 6mm knitting needles
Method
Ears
Yarn is used double throughout
Band (make 1):
Using 6mm needles and black, cast on
10sts and knit every row until work
measures 30cm/12 inches. Cast off.
Ears (Make 4):
Cast on 14 sts and knit 6 rows garter st.
Decrease 1 st at each end of every
alternate rows until 2sts remain, K2tog,
fasten off.
Making Up:
Sew ear pieces together, leaving bottom
opening for stuffing.
Stuff lightly, then sew bottom opening
closed.
Sew a line down the middle of each as
shown in the diagram below. This will give
the ears added definition.
Fold the band in half and mark the middle

with a piece of coloured thread. Sew your
ears approximately 2cm (4/5 inch) either
side of the centre line.
Sew ribbon or a twisted cord to the ends
of the band so that it can be tied on.
Tail:
This tail is simply two knitted pieces sewn
together in a "T" shape. One is tied around
the waist and the other hangs down as the
tail.
First you will need to determine the
measurements of your pieces.
Measure the recipient around the waist
and add 30cm/ 12 inches. This is the
measurement of the piece that ties around
the waist.
Next, measure from the waist to the floor
and subtract 30cm/ 12 inches. This is the
measurement for the tail piece.
Waist Piece:
Using 6mm needles and yarn double cast
on 12 sts and knit every row until work
measures the same as your waist
measurement. Cast off.
Tail Piece:
Using yarn singly 5mm dpns cast on 16sts
and knit in the round, working random
stripes, until it measures the same as your
tail measurement. Break yarn, thread
through sts, pull tight, and fasten off.
Making Up:
Fold your waist piece in half and sew the
cast on end of the tail piece to this point.
Sew in all loose ends neatly.
Teddy Bear
MATERIALS
BERROCO PLUSH (50 grs), 1 ball #1947
Bubblegum, #1023 Shocking Pink or #1901
Cream (1 ball for each bear).
Straight knitting needles, size 8 OR SIZE TO
OBTAIN GAUGE.
Small amount of polyester fill for stuffing.
1/2 yd ribbon for neck bow.
GAUGE
7 sts = 2; 11 sts = 2 in Reverse St st.
TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE.
FRONT
Legs: With straight needles, cast on 2 sts.
With 2nd end of ball, cast on 2 sts. Note:
Both legs are worked at once. Working in
Reverse St st, inc 1 st at each end of the next
3 rows 8 sts. Work 15 rows even, end on
WS.
Join Legs: Next Row (RS): Purl 8 with 1st
end, cut 2nd end and p the last 8 sts with 1st
end 16 sts. Work even in Reverse St st for 5
rows, end on WS. Dec 1 st at each end of next
row, then every other RS row once more 12
sts. Work even for 3 rows, end on WS.
Shape Arms: Cast on 6 sts at beg of the next
2 rows 24 sts. Inc 1 st at each end of next 2
RS rows 28 sts. Work 3 rows even. Dec 1 st
at each end of next 2 RS rows, end on WS
24 sts. Bind off 8 sts at beg of the next 2 rows

8 sts.
Shape Head: Inc 1 st at each end of the next
5 rows 18 sts. Work even for 10 rows. Dec 1
st at each end of the next 5 rows, end on WS.
Bind off remaining 8 sts. Place markers at each
end of the last group of sts bound off at top of
head. Place 2nd set of markers on each side of
head 1 from first set of markers
Left Ear: With RS facing, using straight
needles, pick up 8 sts between left set of
markers. Beg with a k row, work even in
Reverse St st for 4 rows.
Next Row (WS): K2 tog, k4, k2 tog 6 sts.
Bind off all sts.
Work right ear to correspond to left ear.
BACK
Work same as for Front.
FINISHING
Hold wrong sides of pieces tog. Beg at side
edge of bear, sew pieces tog using an overcast
st. Keep sts close together so that no stuffing
will poke out. Note: It is easier to stuff the
head, arms and legs as you go along, leaving

the body for last. When bear is entirely stuffed,
fasten off securely. Tie bow at neck if desired.
Caution: Remove ribbon before giving to a
baby to prevent choking hazard.
Every effort has been made to ensure that
directions contained in this website are
accurate and complete, however, we cannot be
responsible for variance of individual knitters,
human or typographical errors.
Basic Baby Socks
Materials:
Yarn: 3 ply baby or sock yarn
Needles: set of 4 or 5 double pointed size 1
(2.50 mm)
Gauge:
8 sts & 10 rows = 1"
Pattern:
Cast on 36 sts and join in round
Work 8 rounds K1, P1 rib
Knit 20 rounds
Heel flap:
K18, turn, P18, turn
Work another 10 rows in stockinette
Turn heel:
Turn Heel:
K11, SKPO, turn
P6, P2tog, turn
K6, SKPO, turn
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you work across all
heel sts and have 7 left.
Pick up 9 st along edge of heel flap
K 18 across instep, pick up 10 along other

edge of heel flap then K the 7
heel sts. = 44 sts.
K 1 round
Next round:
K 1 round
Next round:
K 1 round
Next round:
K 1 round
Next round:
--> 36 sts
K 8 rounds
K6, K2tog, K20, K2tog tbl, K14

Toe: K2tog, K7, repeat around --> 32 sts

K 1 round
K2tog, K6, repeat around --> 28 sts
K 1 round
Continue decreasing in this manner until 8 sts
remain. Cut yarn and thread through stitches.
Pull up tight and fasten off.
Tote Tapper Bag
Things you will need:
Ultrasuede soft fabric, 46 inches wide

Sewing machine or needle and thread
Craft knife and cutting mat
Directions:
Trace the tote template into he fabric
Cut it out using scissors
Fold to form the bag
Sew along edges to create a pocket.
Cut a vertical slit in top flap for buttonhole. Note: Ultrasuede
fabric is easy to clean and doesn't fray.
Position pocket inside top edge of tote
Stitch across back of pocket, joining it to tote.
Fold pocket flap over top of bag to opposite side; mark spot
where buttonhole meets fabric
Sew button to bag.
Notebook cover
Notebook or journal
About 1/2 yard of fabric
Embellishments (optional)
Directions:
This is probably the hardest part of this whole project. Its a little tricky to
figure out how big to cut your fabric.
Measure your notebook. Cut your fabric that it is 2 1/2-3 bigger than the
vertical measurement of your notebook and about 1/2 to 1 inch bigger than
the measurement from the front cover to the back.
Make sure to measure all the way from the edge of the front cover, around
the spine and to the back cover.
To help you out, let me tell you that for a composition notebook your fabric
should be 13 by 15.5.
Then cut 2 pieces that will be for the inside flaps. They need to be the same
height as your other piece (so in my case 13) and then, depending on the
size of your notebook, make them several inches wide-basically however far
into the inner cover you want them to go.
You can see mine here. Those are about 4 1/2 inches finished but allow for
about 1 inch to hem the edge, so I cut them 5 1/2 inches wide.
Take your big piece of fabric and hem the top and the bottom. To do this fold
the fabric over about 1/2 inch so that wrong sides are touching. Iron it in
place
Then fold it over again about 1/2 inch and press in place again. Do this for the
both the top and the bottom of your large piece
Sew a straight line along both of those hems
Now take your two side pieces and do the same with the tops and bottoms of them,
making sure that you make them the exact same height as your first piece.
Then hem one edge of each. Make sure that you hem the left side of one and the right
side of the other.
Lay them on your large piece on each end so that right sides are together and the side
hems are towards the middle
Sew a straight line down the raw edge of both sides (thats the edge that you
see at the bottom of this picture). Iron that seam nice and flat and then fold it
inward so that wrong sides are together (this is creating the flaps) and sew
from the first arrow to the second at both the top and the bottom of each flap
And were done!
LEATHER OWL BAG
Things youll need:
Paper
Thread
Wood
Fusible interfacing
Leather belt
Multi-colored leather scraps
Leather
Magnetic clasp
Instructions
1
2
First of all you will need your paper to draw half of your owl shape. Cut it out then use this to flip over and
draw your full owl shape (this makes sure both sides are even!) This is the pattern for the front of the bag.
Using the pattern for the front of the bag, trace around then draw an half of the owl's face (this is what will
be the flap to close the bag).
Now you'll need to decide on the depth of the bag as you'll need to add this amount to the top of
the owl shape.
Fold the added-on bit in half horizontally, and trace the outline of the owl's face from underneath. Cut this
out.
Now fold the owl in half vertically and trace the shape of the Owls face on to the other half.
Now cut around the Owl's body too.
Use these patterns to transfer on to the reverse side of your leather and then cut them out.
Now using your paper, cut out feather shaped to use as a stencil. I made 2 different sizes.
Using the stencils, cut out as many feathers as you wish in different colors start to sew them in to place
(making sure you've changed the needle to the leather one).
At this point i measured around the piece with string to get the measurement for the strip that will form the
depth of the bag. Cut out this length and for the width use the depth you decided on for the bag. Mine was
79cm x 3cm.
Now, with right sides together, sew the strip to the front of your bag. Do the same for the back.
Turn it the right way and check that it's sewn all around the edges.
Now I used a belt as a strap, but use what you like. Sew it to the side of your bag.
I noticed my bag wasn't holding its shape very well, so I ironed on interfacing inside and used a piece of
wood on the back to hold the shape better.
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
THE LEATHER STRAP WALLET

Things youll need: Leather, Scissors, White poster board, Pencil, Plastic ruler, Metal nub,
Drafting table
Instructions:
1. Start with a sketch of the design in a notebook.
2. Sketch and create a life size template using found objects (in this case my credit
card) for reference as to actual scale. I draw it out on thin white poster board because
its easy to mark, cut, and cheaper than leather if you screw it up and need to start
over. At this point it is pretty important to get your lines straight by using a 90 degree
ruler and your best judgment, but dont worry if it isnt perfect. If curves are involved
I bought a set of French Curves which are basically a few plastic ruler-like forms
shaped into multiple curves that you can use unless of course you happen to be
Picasso.
3. After drawing out the template, I use a rotary cutter and a ruler to make the initial
straight cuts. This works the best compared to craft razors or scissors, you will end up
with nice clean lines. Above I am cutting out the main outer template and the interior
divider that will go inside the wallet to separate the cards and cash.
4. Once the template has been set, I bust out the vegetable tanned pig skin. Vegetable
tanning is a natural process of preparing and preserving leather by use of tree bark
tannins. In the photo above I am tracing out the template onto the leather using a
piece of tailors chalk. I like the chalk since it easily rubs off down the line, that way I
dont have to worry about pencil or pen markings.
5. The rotary cutter is used to cut out the exterior and interior pieces.
6. Next I need to figure out how long to make the strap. Since this is a piece that is a bit
3D in shape, the best way to determine the length is to use a piece of string wrapped
along the approximate location of the end strap. I would add on another inch or two
just in case, since it is always easier to cut leather off, then to try and put it back on.
7. I have taken the leather out to the shop for some punching and staining. A hole
needs to be punched for the metal nub that the strap attaches to. I use an
interchangeable leather hole punch to get the job done. The pig skin is placed on top
of another thick piece of old leather to protect the hole puncher as it pierces through.
8. Before the leather can be stained, it is a good idea to moisten it first, and possibly
clean with Saddle Soap. Saddle Soap is used to remove dirt and grease left by your
oily little fingerswhich can cause uneven stains. In our case I chose not to soap it
up since I wanted a more uneven look anyways.
9. Even though 34 degrees is enough to make me sweatit sure aint enough to help
the oil dry and soak into the leather. I decided to lay the pieces out in the sun for a
bit until no oil came off to the touch. It is important to make sure the oil isnt standing
on your leather when you go to the next step of waxing. I have had problems before
if you hurry this step.
10. A nice thin coat of beeswax finish is rubbed into the leather. Once dry give it a slight
buff to remove excess wax and create a subtle shine. Back to the draft table the
leather is ready to be marked by an Overstitch wheel, for placement of the stitching
on the back of the wallet where the strap attaches. The Overstitch wheel creates
uniform markings in the leather to space out your stitch length. On top of a piece of
cardboard to protect the awl, I punch diamond shaped holes into the leather.
11. The strap is ready for the first round of stitching. I like to use two needles attached to
one arms length of waxed thread. Above and to the right is a stitching pony I built
with scrap wood and a few dollars worth of hardware. The stitching pony helps free
up your hands when hand stitching and is super easy to operate.
12. After you have stitched on the strap, end the stitch by going over the first two
stitches again and then cut the excess thread off. Now the main compartment and
interior divider is ready for placement. When possible I like to glue along the stitch
line with simple all-purpose white PVA glue, which dries clear. This helps keep your
leather in place while you punch holes and stitch through multiple layers.
13. In the final steps I then attach the metal nub where the strap will fix onto. I then
stitch a rectangle into the strap where the hole will be punched to attach to the metal
nub making sure to fold the end under to give the user a bit more to grab onto.
Leather Stool
carpet or upholstery tacks

strap material, leather or upholstery webbing
2 x 2 oak for legs
1 x 2 oak for stringers
pocket screws
Danish oil
pocket-screw guide
drill
saw
square
sandpaper
rags to apply finish
tack hammer
Directions:
Measure your leg height and mark the boards with a square. Perfectly
square cuts will ensure you dont create a wobbly bench. I cut mine at
15. Next cut all your stringer boards. To make a rectangular bench, I
cut four boards 18 in length and four boards at 12.
Drill all pocket-screw guide holes. You can find an inexpensive pocket
guide at most hardware stores. I use a Kreg model. Clamp it to the
board and drill all your holes.
After all boards are cut and drilled, sand them to a smooth finish. Its
much easier to sand now than after its assembled. Sanding to at least
a 220 grit will give you a furniture-grade surface.
Now its time to assemble. I cut a couple 3/8 pieces of scrap board to
help position the stringers in the center of the leg pieces before
attaching. I also used some scraps to uniformly space the lower
stringers from the top. Now a complete side can be positioned on your
work surface before driving all the screws. Assemble both complete
ends, and then attach the two with your remaining stringer boards.
We had a bunch of short leather 1 1/2-inch straps from a previous
project, so it was the perfect choice for the woven top. Otherwise, you
can use seat-belt webbing or upholstery straps. Cut your straps long
enough to wrap completely around your boards. Using a tack hammer,

attach all the long pieces first and then weave the remaining ones in
and attach one by one. Because leather is such thick material, its
necessary to have gaps between them so they can be woven. The
thinner your strap material, the closer they can be woven.
DONE! I chose to leave the leather natural and used light, walnutcolored Danish oil, but any number of stains, finishes or waxes can be
used to create yours.
Iphone case
eather
topstitching thread
scissors
stitching awl
e6000 glue
needle
tape
Cellphone case pattern
Directions:
Print out cell phone case pattern. Lay onto leather, tape in place. Use
stitching awl to poke holes as marked on the pattern.
Cut out pattern.
Hand stitch in and out around the leather through the poked holes
Then, hand stitch in the same manner to fill in the unstitched areas. Be
sure to overlap about 3 stitches to keep the stitches secure.
Fold over the left and right triangle flaps. Sew together, making sure
the 4 poked holes are aligned.
Add e6000 glue to the bottom flap, tuck inside, and glue in place
Hold for a few seconds to allow the glue to set in.
HOW TO PIN PRESSED-IN STUDS

Things youll need:
Fabric
Chalk
Measuring tape
Studs
Pliers
Directions:
Determine the desired stud pattern. Use the measuring tape and chalk
to equidistantly space and mark studs along the pattern.
Place a stud over the chalk marking. Press the stud prongs through
the material you're using so the prongs are exposed on the other (back)
side.
Use the pliers to bend the prongs inward, toward the center of the stud.
Bend all prongs flush to the back side of the material, ensuring
attachment.
Repeat the stud-application process for each marking in the pattern.
FIBER CRAFTS
WOOVEN KEY RINGS
Things youll need:
3 Yards of Flat Cord

3 Yards of Metallic Cord
Key Ring Scissors
Instructions:
1
2
3
Cut two 54" pieces of flat cord. Pull them through a key ring to the center of the cord. Cross the
cords holding them perpendicular to each other.
Fold strand 1 to opposite side leaving a small loop; Fold strand 3 to opposite side leaving a small
loop. Hold strands in place with one hand.
With your other hand, weave strand 2 over strand 3 and under strand 1. Weave strand 4 over
strand 1 and under strand 3; pull tightly. Continue until you have about 4" braid. Tie off securely
and trim.
HEMP FRIENSHIP BRACELET
Things youll need:
6 Yards of #20 Hemp

Misc. Beads
Masking Tape
Instructions:
1
Cut hemp into two 3 yard lengths. Fold both pieces 18" from the end. Gather the folded strands
together. You now have two 18" strands and two 7' strands. Tie all together into a knot 4" from
the fold. Secure by taping to table top at fold. You could also use a clipboard or slip loop made by
fold around a chair leg. Pull both 18" strands taut and tape down ends.
Making the knots:

a
b
c
d
2
Cross strand 1 over strands 2 & 3 and under strand 4.

Bring strand 4 under strands 2 & 3, then up through the loop created by strand 1. Tighten.
Cross strand 1 over strands 2 & 3 and under strand 4.
Bring strand 4 under strands 2 & 3, then up through the loop created by strand 1. Tighten.
Adding Beads: Beads can be added at any point on the bracelet. You can string them on one, two
or all four strands. On the bracelet shown above, beads where strung only on strands 2 & 3.
Finishing: When you reach the desired length, make a knot to match the other end. Remove tape.
Trim ends, leaving enough to tie on wrist. Make a knot on each strand end to keep from fraying,
adding a bead if desired.
RIBBED DOG COLLAR
Things youll need:
2mm 3mm Nylon cord

1.25 to 2-inch Buckle
1-inch Metal or Plastic Ring
Project board and pins
Instructions:
1
2
3
4
5
6
Measure your dogs neck. Make sure the measuring tape is loose enough to admit two fingers.
Multiply the measurement by 8. Cut 8 cords, each of them the length you came up with. Prepare
the ends with glue, tape, or wax.
For a 2 -part buckle, mount 4 cords to one part, with Larks Head knots. If using a single buckle,
mount the four cords to the center bar, to either side of the tongue if there is one.
Choose the strand furthest to the right to be the holding cord. Direct it towards the left
horizontally, and secure it to the board so its taut. Attach the other strands to it with Double Half
Hitches (DHH), making each knot tight. If you start with the second strand nearest the right edge,
and move towards the left, its much easier to make the DHH.
When the first row is complete, direct the same holding cord the other direction, and make
another row of DHH.
Repeat step 4 until you have half the length you need, minus one inch.
Use pliers to pull the ends to the back of the design, through the small openings between the ring
and the last row of DHH. Divide the strands into groups of 2. Make tight Square Knots (no
fillers) with each group. Apply glue to these knots, front and back. When dry, cut off any excess
cord.
Mount the remaining 4 cords to the bottom of the ring, with Larks Head knots. Add an extra loop
with the right portion of each cord, passing under the ring first to make the loop.
8
9
Repeat steps 3 through 5, to make the second half of the ribbed Dog collar. Stop when you have
made the same number of rows as the first half, unless you are using a single buckle. If so, follow
step 10. For a 2-part Buckle.
The last few rows will need to be designed differently. Start by omitting 2 strands, from the center
of the group. Tie 6 rows of Alternating Square Knots, using 3 strands per knot. The design needs
to be flat and narrow to fit through the buckle. Tie a tight Square knot with the cords you omitted,
on the backside of the ribbed dog collar. Apply glue to the knot, and trim off the excess. When
you are finished, direct the remaining 6 cords to the back of the Ribbed Dog collar. Trim the ends
until they are 2 inches long. Apply glue to them and to the back of the design. Place something
heavy on that portion of the Dog Collar while the glue is drying.
FRUIT BAG
Things youll need:
*size US #8 (5mm) double pointed needles, set of 5

*size US #10 (6mm) double pointed needles, set of 5
*1 skein of lily sugars cream (or similar yarn, roughly 120 yards)
Abbreviations: k1, knit 1, yo, yarn over, k2tog, knit two together
Instructions:
Bottom:
Using smaller needles, CO 8 sts.

divide sts evenly onto 4 needles (2 sts/needle)
k1, yo, k1, repeat each needle (12 sts)
knit around plain
k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, repeat each needle (20 sts)
knit around plain
k1, yo, knit across until 1 st remains on needle, yo, k1, repeat each needle (28 sts)
knit around plain
Repeat rounds 5 & 6 until you have 15 sts on each needles (60 sts total)
Body:
(k2tog, yo) repeat around

knit around plain
Repeat rounds 1 & 2 until body measures 8"
Cuff:
purl
knit
Repeat rounds 1 & 2 once more
k5, yo, repeat around
purl
knit
purl
Easy Fingerless Gloves

Things you will need: Old Sweater, Fabric Scissors or Rotary Cutter and
Cutting Mat, Sewing Machine or Needle & Thread, Ruler
Directions:
First, you need to decide how long you want your fingerless gloves to be,
then cut the sleeves 1 longer to allow for the hem. I wanted mine to be 9
long so I cut the sleeves off at 10 from the cuff. If your sweater is very bulky,
you may want to pin the edges before cutting them so keep it from raveling.
Turn your sleeve inside out, fold over about 1 of the cut edge, pin in place
and stitch all the way around. Again, if your sweater is particularly bulky, you
may need to stitch twice. (Sorry, my camera had a brain-fart so I dont have a
pic of this step)
Put your hand in the sleeve to figure out where to stitch the seam for the thumb. You may
need another person to help you with this. On the inside of the sleeve, sew a V between
thumb and forefinger. I double stitched to make sure it would hold up. Next, you want to
carefully cut out the V.
Turn right side out and repeat with the second sleeve. The sleeves for this sweater were
nice and snug on my arms. If yours are too loose, simply fit it to your arm, pin and sew
along the inside.
DIY Felted Dryer Balls

Things you will need: Any kind (sheep, alpaca, etc), appr. 1 1/2 oz per ball, Nylon Hose, Washer
& Dryer
Directions:
If youre using all roving, start wrapping it around itself roughly in a ball
shape, until its about the size of a tennis ball.
If youre using something else for the core, wad up that material, tucking in
the ends and then begin wrapping the roving around it. In the first photo, I
used scraps from an unsuccessful felting project, second photo has old yarn
for the core.
Once your balls (go ahead and laugh )are about the size of a tennis ball,
put them in the leg of a panty hose, pull it tight and tie a knot between each
one.
Put your tied up wool balls in the washing machine and wash with detergent
and hot water. You can add clothes if you want, just be aware that if your
roving is dyed, it may bleed. Once the wash cycle is done, pop em in the
dryer. As youll see in the next pic, two of mine were fairly well embedded in
the hose so you may want to untie them and loosen the hose after the wash
cycle and BEFORE putting them in the dryer. But, its really not a big deal if
you dont.
All thats left now is to remove the hose. I had to cut off the hose from two of
them but the middle one came out just fine. As I said before, its really not a
problem. Just cut off the hose. The balls should be well felted by now so it
wont hurt anything.
DIY Fishtail Friendship Bracelets

Three colors of embroidery/friendship thread.

Beads
Directions
Cut two pieces of each color at around 3 feet each. So total you should
have 6 pieces of string. Keep the like colors together.
Loop all of the string together around your ring finger and tie two
knots.
Tape (or clip) the loop to a sturdy surface. Separate the colors. On the
left side you should have one group of each color and you should have
one group of each color on the right as well. If you separate them like
this in the beginning, it will be easier in the next steps.
Take the outside color from the right side (in this case- blue) and cross
it over to the left side (on the inside.)
Take the outside group/same color from the left and cross it over to the
right side (on the inside.)
Grab the left group in one hand and the right group in the other and
pull outward to tighten the design a little. You will only have to do this
step in the beginning, eventually it won't need tightening. Repeat steps
4, 5 and 6 over and over again until you get the bracelet as long as it
needs to be to go around your wrist. It should go pretty fast.
When the bracelet is long enough, tie two or three knots at the end.
String a bead onto the end and then tie another knot to keep the bead
in place
Then cut the extra string off and you are done
4th of July Sparkling Pipe Cleaners

2 red pipe cleaners (aka chenille stems)

2 blue pipe cleaners
4 white pipe cleaners mine are the shiny sparkly white colored kind
Directions:
Gather your pipe cleaners and group them with the white together and the
blue and red together. (I also made a sparkler that was half the size by
cutting my white pipe cleaners in half for a tighter look, see above.)
Wrap your blue and red pipe cleaners around the center of your white pipe
cleaners.
Bend your white pipe cleaners up and then twist your blue and red pipe
cleaners together.
Give your white pipe cleaners one little twist, then fan them out. You can
bend them at the tops or leave them straight.
Fiber wrapped Mason Jars

Things youll need:
Clean Mason Jar

Assorted colored fibers
Glue
Tape
Flower designs
Directions
Wash and dry Mason jars. Discard lids.

Work on one jar at a time. Place adhesive tape on the jar, covering at
least of surface.
Begin to wrap yarn around the jar, row by row, keeping neat. Tuck in
ends.
Wrap jute around the lip of the jar.
Repeat wrapping on second jar.
Place jars side by side and use jute to wrap around the two. Keep tight
for stability.
To customize, insert any floral embellishment.
Woven Shawl
Things youll need: 2 pieces of water-soluble stabilizer in desired size of your
scarf, Fiber- Yarn, Ribbon, Fabric Strips, etc., Fringe- Simply left the fiber hang
over the edge of the stabilizer, Pins, Sewing machine
Instructions:
Place 1 piece of stabilizer on the table.

Lay the fibers the length of the scarf. You can use a lot of fibers to
make a thick scarf, or use fewer fibers to make a thinner scarf. You can
place the fibers in a very orderly manner, or you can just let them
wander and twist.
After all the fibers are arranged to your liking, place the other piece of
stabilizer on top(or if you have a wider piece of stabilizer, you can fold
it in half).
Pin it well to keep everything in place.
Stitching is what holds everything in place. Its best to start by
stitching a gridits essential that the stitching cross so be sure to
stitch in at least 2 directions
Its easiest to stitch the short way first, then stitch the long way. After
you have a grid you can add more stitching if you like. I find it easiest
to do free-motion stitching. The stitching doesnt show much, so this is
a good place to practice if you are new to free-motion.
After stitching, place the scarf in warm water and soak and/or gently
rub or agitate until the stabilizer is dissolved.
Wrap the scarf in a towel to blot, then hang it to dry.
FIBER CRAFT
Fabric Bead Bracelet

SUPPLIES
-Scrap/organic fabric cut into triangular
-memory wire [approx 44 long]
-crimps
-crimp covers
-pliers
-fabric glue
-bamboo kebab skewer
HOW TO MAKE YOUR FABRIC BEAD BRACELET
Step 1 Start to roll your fabric triangles around the bamboo skewer, starting from the wide
base of the triangle.
Step 2 Apply glue along the length of the fabric and continue rolling until the bead is
complete.
Step 3 Remove your bead carefully and allow to dry completely.
Step 4 Bend one end of the memory wire around and secure with a crimp. [Requires adult
supervision/assistance]
Step 5 Apply crimp cover [requires adult supervision/assistance]
Step 6 Thread beads onto wire.
Step 7 Repeat steps 4 and 5 to finish bracelet.
How to Make Fabric Beads

Materials
-Knitting needles
-Fabric
-An assortment of seed beads in all sizes
a good quality thread
-Glitzy/funky fibers,
-A needle, pins, and basic sewing supplies.
Process
1 Cut a strip of fabric about 45 inches long. Wrap it tightly (about 5
times) around the knitting needle, and then twist and wrap the fabric
to create gentle folds. Pin in place.
2 Determine what kind of fiber you think would work best with your
fabric choice. Wrap it and pin in place.
3 Thread your needle, double strand, hide the knot inside the fabric, and
randomly stitch the beads on your fabric bead.
4 While you are stitching the beads, make sure that you go through all
the layers. This will anchor the fabric, the fibers and the beads all at
the same time. When you are done, pull the bead off the knitting
needle
Crochet Gift Card Holder Pattern

Heres what you need:
-worsted weight wool yarn

-H hook
-tapestry needle, scissors
Process
Solid Holder with Scalloped Border
Special Stitch:
-Long single crochet (Lsc): Insert hook into stitch of previous row. Draw up a loop to
height of current row being worked, complete as single crochet (the Lsc takes the
place of the next stitch in the current row).
-Ch 16, Sl st in furthest ch from hook to form a ring, do not turn.
Rounds 1 through 13: Ch 1 (does not count as st here and throughout), work 1 sc
in same st as join and each st around 16 sts.
Round 14: Ch 1, beginning in same st as join, *work 1 sc, ch 3, skip next st, rep
from * around ending with a slip st in first sc of round.
Fasten off.
To close bottom of holder, turn piece around so that Row 1 is now on top, flatten
cylinder; working through both the top and bottom unused loops of the beginning
chain, pull up yarn in first loops, ch 1, work 1 sc in same loops and each pair of
loops across. Fasten off and weave in ends.
If desired, weave a length of yarn in a coordinating color through the stitches of
Round 13 and tie a pretty little bow in the front.
Multicolored Spiked Holder
With CA, ch 16, Sl st in furthest ch from hook to form a ring, do not turn.
Rounds 1 and 2: Ch 1 (does not count as st here and throughout), work 1 sc in
same st as join and each st around 16 sts.
Round 3: Join CB, ch 1, beginning in same st as join, *work 1 sc, 1 Lsc in next st
one row below, rep from * around, join 16 sts.
Rounds 4 through 12: Repeat sequence of Rounds 1 through 3.
Round 13: Continuing with CB, ch 1, working back along sts just made, work 1 rev
sc in each st around 16 sts.
Fasten off.
To close bottom of holder, turn piece around so that Row 1 is now on top, flatten
cylinder; working from left to right and through both the top and bottom unused
loops of the beginning chain, pull up yarn in first loops, ch 1, work 1 rev sc in same
loops and each pair of loops across. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Santa Claus Mason Jar Cosy

Materials: worsted weight yarn in red, white, and black. I used Bernat Berry, Black, and
White, 4.00mm crochet hook, small piece of gold felt, 1 small black button, gold embroidery
thread and needle
Stitches used:
ch chain
sc single crochet
inc increase
BLO back loop only
Notes:
Pattern is worked in continuous rounds, do not join or turn at the end of each round. Use
stitch
markers to keep track of beginning/end of each round.
Starting with red yarn.
Round 1: make 6 sc in ring or ch 2 and make 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Round 2: inc in each st (12 sts)
Round 3: [sc in next st, inc in next st] repeat around (18 sts)
Round 4: [sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st] repeat around (24 sts)
Switch to white yarn.
Round 7: sc around in BLO.
Round 8: (in both loops again) sc around.
Switch to red yarn.
Rounds 9-10: sc around.
Switch to black yarn.
Switch to red yarn.
Switch to white yarn.
Fasten off and weave ends.
Make the belt buckle with a small square piece of felt and sew with matching thread. Sew
small button above belt buckle.
Crochet Flower Coasters

Supplies: Ball of yarn, 3mm crochet hook
Process
Foundation ring: Make 7ch, sl st into 1st ch to form ring.
Rnd 1: 2ch (counts as 1st tr), 2ch, *1tr into ring, 2ch, rep from * 8 more times, sl st into 3rd
ch at beg of round. (10 spokes coming out of ring)
Rnd 2: Sl st into 1st 2ch sp from prev round, 3ch (counts as 1tr), work 2tr into same ch sp as
sl st, 1ch, miss next tr, *3tr into next ch sp, 1ch, rep from * until all ch sp have been worked
into, sl st into 3rd ch at beg of round. (10 sections of 3)
Rnd 3: *4tr, then 1ch.
Repeat from * 9 times. Sl st through the 1st tr to complete the circle.
Rnd 4: Sl st into 1st 1ch sp from prev round, 4ch (counts as 1tr & 1ch), *miss 4tr, 5tr into
next 1ch sp, 1ch, rep from * 8 more times, 4tr into last 1ch space sl st into 3rd of 4ch at beg
of round. (10 sections of 4)
Rnd 5: Sl st into 1st 1ch sp from prev round, 4ch (counts as 1tr and 1ch), *miss 5tr, 7tr into
next 1ch sp, 1ch, rep from * 8 more times, 6tr into last 1ch space sl st into 3rd of 4ch at beg
of round. (10 sections of 7)
Break off yarn and sew in loose ends. Pin out on ironing board and cover with damp cloth,
press with steam iron.
Felt Pencil Roll
You Will Need: 1/3 yard (30.5 cm) of wool or wool-blend felt*, Ruler, Disappearing fabric
marker or tailors chalk, Craft knife, 1 yard (.9 m) of leather cord, 24 colored pencils
Process
1 Cut the felt into a 9 x 33-inch (22.9 x 83.8 cm) rectangle.
3
4
5
Using a ruler and disappearing fabric marker or tailors chalk, mark one row of 24
dashes that are 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) long and 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) apart, starting 3 inches
(7.6 cm) from the long edge and 1 inch (2.5 cm) in from the short edge. Mark another
row of identical dashes
1/2 inch (1.3 cm) away from the first.
Repeat these markings 3 inches (7.6 cm) in from the other long edge and 1 inch (2.5
cm) in from the short edge: Using a ruler, mark one row of 24 dashes that are 1/2
inch (1.3 cm) long and 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) apart. Mark another row of identical dashes
1/2 inch (1.3 cm) away from the first.
Using a craft knife and self-healing mat (if desired), cut along the dashes to create
slits for the pencils to slide through.
Attach the cord by cutting a small hole 1 inch (2.5 cm) in from and centered on the
short edge. Fold the cord in half, tie a loop knot, and thread the two loose ends
through the hole.
Fill your roll with pencils by threading them through the cuts, roll it up, wrap the cord
around, tie, and enjoy!
DIY Wire- Free Wreath
What you need

-3 x (1 yard x 5 inch wide) felt strips in different colors.
-Merry Christmas sign for decoration and/or Christmas pick for
embellishment.
-Craft glue
-rubber bands x2
Process
1 You need to start by laying out your lengths of felt and beginning to
plait.
2 You can use a rubber band to hold it in place as you plait.
3 Scoop it around in to a circle to form the wreath.
4 Secure the bottom with a rubber band and Unravel both ends to form
the loose dangle/tassel as shown in the photo.
5 Secure the wreath with glue and cut the ends into smaller strips to
form the tassel like effect at the bottom.
6 Finish off with your embellishments.
Knot an Angel
Materials
-25 Cm's of thick rope or cord
-Ready made angel wings
-Felt pens for drawing the face
-Ribbon
-Craft hair
Instructions
1 Take your length of cord and tie a large not at one end.
2 The knot will form the angels head. Fray out the bottom section to form the
angels dress as above in picture.
3 Using your felt pens draw on or paint the face onto the knot section of the
angel (her head).
4 Using some craft glue attach the wings to the back of the angel and allow to
dry.
5 Place some glue around the top of the knot and glue on your angles hair.
6 Glue on a ribbon loop for hanging to the middle of her back.
Recycled T-shirt- Dogs Tugga Toy
Materials: 20 1 inch x 20 inch (2.5 cm x 50 cm) recycled

stretch knit from pants or tops in assorted colors.
Directions
1 You can use recycled stretch knit from old t-shirts or pants or if you like you
can use new fabric.
2 Cut the fabric into 20 pieces that measure approx 1 inch x 20 inch (2.5 cm x
50 cm) for a large dog.
3 For smaller dogs reduce the length and quantity but not the 1 inch width.
4 Lay your pieces together in 2 sections of 10. Twist the 2 sections together and
tie a large knot at each end as shown in the picture. Your knot should be tight
and secure.
5 There is no need for gluing or sewing.
6 Alternatively you can play your strands together or add extra knots
depending on your dogs desire.
Gods Eye
Materials
-Two 12 dowels
-yarn (try using different colors, weights, and fibers)
-scissors
Process
1 To start, put two dowels next to each other, and tie them together with a double knot
around the middle.
2 Twist the dowels so they are perpendicular to one another.
3 Now its time to start wrapping! There are basically two different ways to wrap the
yarn around the dowel: over and under. To wrap the yarn over the dowel, pull the
yarn strand across the top of the dowel, pull it under the dowel, behind the back, and
back over the top. Then move on to the next dowel.
4 To wrap the yarn under, start with the yarn beneath the dowel, pull it up over and
behind again, and then move onto the next dowel.
Wrap the entire piece going one direction. You get a flat look on the over side,
and you can see the wrapped dowel on the under side.
5 To change yarns, simply tie the working yarn to one end of the new yarn and keep on
wrapping! When you are finished with your piece, tie off the yarn and secure with a
bit of glue if you like.
DIY 5 minutes hot pack

Things youll need:
Pair of socks
Rice
Instructions:
1
Put some ample amount of rice

inside the sock. It can be an old
socks or you can buy cute ones
like these.
Tie the end and place it on top

of tummy to make it warm and
easy for gas to come out.
FIBER CRAFT
ANGEL DOOR DECORATION
Things youll need: (1) 4-inch Metal or Plastic Ring, Wings: 2 mm Gold cord or
standard yarn (total 17 yards), Body: 6mm White or Pastel colored cord or thick yarn
(12 yards total), Hair: 6mm Cream colored cord, twisted style(3 yards total)
Knots used: Interlaced plaits (3-strands), Larks head knots, Square knot, Linen
stitch, Half stitch
Instructions:
Step 1: Cut the cords as follows:
(8) 12-inch cords for the hair (Twisted cord)
(9) 45 -inch cords for the body
(12) 50 -inch cords for the wings
Step 2: Attach each of the cords for the hair at the top of the ring, by making
a Larks Head knot first. Then add a Half Hitch with each portion of the cord,
so they rest beside the Larks Head Knot. To do so, direct the end over the
ring, down behind it, and through the loop.
Step 3: Attach the cords for the body at the bottom of the ring, using Larks
Head Knots only. For the wings, attach 6 of the cords between the hair and
body cords, just as you did in Step 2 (Larks Head + Half Hitch). Attach the
other 6cords in the same manner, on the other side of the ring.
Step 4: Arrange the strands into 6 groups consisting of 3 cords each. Number
the groups 1 thru 6. Braid group 1 using the standard 3-strand braid used in
hairstyles. When the braid is 6 inches long, tie a Half Hitch with one strand
around the other 2, to secure it. Repeat for group #6. These are the arms of
the Angel Door Decoration. Push them out of the way for now, you won't use
them until later.
Step 5: Braid groups 2 thru 5 in the same manner, stopping when you reach
4inches. Be sure to tie the Half Hitch at the end of each braid. These 4 braids
make up the body of the Angel.
Step 6: Bring the body braids together by making the Linen Stitch, wrapping
one strand around all the others several times. Make a loop, and pass the end
through it. Use a different strand, and wrap it around all the others twice
(including the one previously used). Make the loop, passing the end through.
Try to make the loop in the back, if you can. Tie an Overhand knot, and apply
glue.
Step 7: Trim the ends so they are even. You can add bells or beads to the
individual strands, or unravel them to make a fluffy skirt.
Step 8: To make the first Wing for the Angel door decoration, organize the
strands into 4 groups of 3. Braid each group as you did the body, ending with
the Half Hitch to secure the braid. The total length of each Wing braid should
be 9inches. Repeat the process for the other Wing.
Step 9: Attach each of the Wing braids to the body by passing the center cord
of each group through spaces in the body braids, front to back. Use the other
2 cords in each group to tie a Square Knot around the center cord, to secure
it.
Step 10: Take the 2 braids you tied as the arms of the Angel door
decoration, and bring them to the middle of the body, just above the wrapped
portion. Pass the cords through spaces in the front of the body, front to back.
Flip the design over. Tie a Square Knot in each group of 3 cords (1filler). Apply
glue and allow it to dry. Cut off any remaining cord.
Step 11: If you wish to add bells in the center of the body, add one or more
just above the point where the arm cords passed through. It will look like the
Angel is holding the bells. You can also add flowers, as seen in the images.
Step 12: Unravel each of the cords for the hair. Brush or comb the individual
strands until you are happy with the design.
FIBER DISPLAY
Things youll need:
1 piece of cardboard, at least 8 inches wide, and 15 inches long

Embroidery thread, or thin string, about 14 yards
1 piece of construction paper or cardstock
Pencil
Ruler
Scissors
Yarn (multiple colors)
Wooden dowel or stick, cut to about 8
Leather or twine for hanging
Instructions
Step 1: Making the loom
Using a ruler, mark the center point of the width, and mark segments 10 each
side of center, a total of 21. Repeat on the other end. Cut the segments deep
with a pair of scissors.
Wrap the end of the thread around the outermost cut, winding in one or two
spaces, then back to the outer cut to secure the thread.
Wind around, lengthwise, end to end, with decent tension (do not warp cardboard)
until you reach the last cut on the other side, secure in the same way, by wrapping
back in and out, and trim the end. You have made the warp! And you are ready to
weave in the yarn, crosswise, this is called the weft.
Fold a piece of construction paper in half lengthwise, then fold until it is about
x 8, insert under the strings on one end. This lifts them for weaving.
Step 2: Plain Weave (Tabby Weave)
To start weaving, wrap a few feet of yarn around your pinky and thumb to form a
skein.
Starting from the left side, with the loom in front of you, lengthwise, paper side
closest to you, insert the end of the skein in and out the first few warp strings,
tuck the end down toward the paper.
Starting from left to right, weave over and under each warp thread, back and forth
either side. Keep it really LOOSE, if you make it too tight, itll pull the warp
threads together and the tapestry wont be straight. Do about 10 rows to make a
full inch. Push it down to compact and make the weave tight.
Step 3: Sloping
After an inch or so of tabby, starting 4 warp strings in, anchor your yarn as you
did with the plain weave, and work back and forth, plain weave, to the other side,
4 places in. Do this for 5 rows, the drop a warp thread each side, repeat for
another 5 rows, drop another each side, repeat, until you get to just two warp
threads, winding around 5 rows, cut off and tuck under. You now have a big
triangle.
To fill in the sides of the triangle, tabby back and forth in different colors, varying
the width of each row, to create a gradual sloping effect.
Follow with another inch (10 rows) of plain weave.
Step 4: The Swedish Braid
Anchor your yarn, and go over 2 warp threads, looping under the 2nd thread,
repeat all the way across.
Go back and forth at least 4 times to create an inch of braid.
Follow with another inch of plain weave
Step 5: Dovetail
Working with three different skeins of yarn, create color block by interlocking
weaves as they meet on warp yarns. To do this divide the loom into three
sections, of 7 warp threads each. Tabby across, when, where they meet, twist the
yarns around one another and turn back, the middle row will interlock on both
sides, or one of the outer blocks cannot connect, leaving a slot.
Follow with another inch of plain weave.
Step 7: RYA Weave (the fringe weave)
This one is fun! Cut yarn several (40-60) 1 inch pieces of yarn.
Center the yarn over two warp threads and pull ends up through the warp. Go
across one row.
On the return (right to left) drop the first warp thread so that your knot will offset
from the first row. Repeat for 3-4 rows.
Follow with an inch of plain weave.
Step 8: Tie it off
Pull the paper guide out of the loom, and compress the weave, it will be about
5x5.
Cut the warp threads (leaving 5 inches of thread on either side to tie off.
Use a square knot to tie 2 threads together at a time, trim flush with the tapestry.
Step 9: Tassels!
I made pom-pom tassels for the girls to hang off their tapestries. To do this just
wrap yarn around the tines of a fork, about 50 revolutions.
Remove the looped yarn, tying around the middle with another piece of yarn.
Cut the loops and even out to make a perfect ball
Attach to the back side of the tapestry with a piece of yarn, just by knotting
through some of the weave under the RYA tufting.
CROCHET KITTY BAG
Things youll need: Two contrasting colors of any thread or yarn, The Gypsy thread, 4 1/2
x 5/8 Velcro, Transparent thread, Sewing needle.
Instructions:
1. Starting with the denim thread, make a slip knot (leaving a 5-inch tail), then
chain 39 stitches. Starting with the second chain, SC 37 stitches. SC 4
stitches into the last chain for a total of 41 stitches. Continue to SC using the
new top of the chain until you come around to the first stitch, carrying the
tail as you go. SC 3 stitches into the last stitch. This round should have a
total of 80 stitches. This piece is worked as a spiral, not in concentric rings, so
do not turn or join.
2. Start to carry the natural thread in this round. SC around without any
increases, carrying the natural thread. You will begin to tapestry crochet the
figure motif in the next round. To do a tapestry crochet (TC) stitch, threads
are switched while 2 loops are still on the hook; so yarn over with natural and
pull it through the denim loops of the last stitch of this round to prepare for
the first TC stitch of the next round. From now on, the bag should always have
80 stitches at the end of every round.
3. Crochet the motif as follows: TC 2 natural, 4 denim, 2 natural, then 2 denim
stitches. Repeat this sequence 7 more times.
4. TC 1 denim, 2 natural, 4 denim, 2 natural, and then 1 denim stitch. Repeat
around.
5. TC 2 denim, 2 natural, 4 denim, then 2 natural stitches. Repeat around.
6. TC 3 denim, then 7 natural stitches. Repeat around.
7. TC 3 denim, 2 natural, 4 denim, and then 1 natural stitch. Repeat around.
8. TC 2 denim, 4 natural, 3 denim, and then 1 natural stitch. Repeat around.
9. TC 2 denim, 1 natural, 1 denim, 1 natural, 1 denim, 1 natural, 2 denim, and
then 1 natural stitch. Repeat around.
10.TC 2 denim, 5 natural, 2 denim, and then 1 natural stitch. Repeat around.
11.TC 3 denim, 1 natural, 2 denim, 1 natural, and then 3 denim stitches. Repeat
around.
Finishing:
Round A: Crochet 14 (or the number necessary to bring the stitch to the edge of the
bag) denim stitches while carrying the natural. Chain 100 stitches with the denim
thread (that is still attached to the bag). For a longer or shorter strap, increase or
decrease at this point. Insert the hook into the next stitch, first making sure that the
chain is not twisted.
Rounds B & C: Crochet around the top of the bag with the denim thread while
carrying the natural. Continue to SC onto the chain, while carrying the natural
thread.
Round D: SC around the top of the bag and the strap with the denim and natural
threads joined together , slip stitch at the end of the round, cut the threads (leaving
6 inch tails) then yarn over and pull the threads all the way through the loop. Work
in the ends for 2 inches to secure them, then trim them off.
Turn over the strap. Insert the hook into the stitch on top of the bag between the
beginning and end of the strap. Pull through a loop of denim and natural (joined
together), leaving 2 tails hanging out of the back. Chain 1, then crochet around the
strap, inserting the hook into the bottom loops of the chain, while carrying the tail.
At the end of the round, slip stitch, cut the threads (leaving 6 inch tails) then yarn
over and pull them all the way through the loop. Work in the ends for 2 inches to
secure them, trim them off, and then block the bag with a steam iron. Sew Velcro
1/2 below the inside top edge of the bag with transparent thread.
DIY RAG TO RICH DESIGN
DIY DOLL SHOES
Metal works
SIMPLE COPPER CANDLEHOLDER
WHAT YOU NEED:
3/4 copper couplings (one for each candleholder), 4 x 4 x 2 lumber
(Unfortunately, this usually comes in 6, 8 or 10 lengths, so youll have a lot extra if
you only make a couple of these. But you can at least have them cut to size at the
hardware store.)
mitre box and wood saw 4 round wooden craft discs (these are available at craft
and art supply stores)
drill with 1 boring bit attachment, sandpaper or power sander, candles, wood glue
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Once you have your pieces of lumber cut down to size, sand them all over
with a medium- and then a fine-grit sandpaper until they are nice and
smooth.
2. Measure the center of one edge of the square piece of wood and hold up the
disc to the center of the edge. Mark the width of the disc on the wood to use
as a cutting guide.
3. Clamp your piece of wood to a stable surface and begin sawing at a 45degree angle just inside the left-hand mark you made. Stop when your saw
has reached 1/2 into the top and side face of the wood. Repeat the same cut
just inside the right-hand mark and stop at the same point. Then youll have a
thin little sliver of wood in the center, which you can continue sawing into and
it will chip away. Once you have the slot cut out, wedge the disc into place to
check that it fits nicely, and continue sawing out bit by bit until you have a
nice snug fit.
4. Now place your copper coupling onto the surface of the wood and see where
youd like it to be positioned. Use a pen or pencil to trace the circle inside the
coupling to use as a drilling guide.
5. Remove the wood disc and clamp the wood piece back down onto the stable
work surface. Place the center tip of the boring bit into the center of the circle
you drew and drill down 1/8 into the wood, creating a shallow circular cavity
for the coupling. Use your sandpaper to clean the edges, and wipe the piece
down to remove any splinters or sawdust.
6. Put a small dab of wood glue into the slot for the disc and along the sides of
the shallow circular cavity. Place the disc into the slot and gently tap it down
into place with a mallet or stick. Place the copper coupling down into the
shallow cavity. Use a rag or a slightly damp Q-tip to remove any excess glue
and set the piece aside to dry.
7. Youre done! You can now coat the whole piece with a protective sealant, or
just oil the wood for a nice even sheen and enjoy the warm glow of holiday
candlelight!
COPPER TUBING SIDE TABLE

WHAT YOU NEED: piece of MDF (I made mine about 16 square), copper tubing (22mm thick), epoxy
glue for metal, spray paint in two colors (I used neon yellow and bronze), white spray paint, masking tape
drill with 22mm boring bit (learn more about drills and bits here), sandpaper, metal cutter, clamps
INSTRUCTIONS
Cut the copper tubing down to four legs. I chose to cut it at 16. The metal cutter is super
simple and a cinch to work.
Spray your MDF with white first.
Add masking tape down the diagonal line and mask one side that you dont want to
paint.
Spray the one side with your color of choice and let it dry.
Mask the now-painted side and spray the opposite side. Repeat on the other side of the
board.
Clamp your board down to the table. With your drill, figure out how deep you want it to
go and create a line with your masking tape on the bit.
Measure how far in you want your hold. I did mine 1 1/2 in from the diagonal. Mark it on
each corner. Drill each hole in.
Follow the directions on the epoxy glue. I had to mix the two solutions together before
applying it to the hole and the tubing. Hold the tubing in place while it dries.
Repeat on all four legs and wait a full day to let it dry before using it.
SILVER-LEAFED LAMPSHADE
WHAT YOU NEED
large lamp shade preferably with a plastic interior (You want the bulb to be a safe distance from
the edges of the shade. This is not recommended on small shades.)

baby powder
adhesive size for leafing
metal leafing
wide paintbrush
soft brush (such as a blush brush)
INSTRUCTIONS
Using the wide paintbrush, paint the entire interior of the shade with the adhesive sizing. Paint the
sizing as smoothly as possible, as the leaf will show brushstrokes. Also, paint edges carefully,
making sure to paint only the plastic and not the fabric. The leaf will stick to any stray sizing.
Wash the wide brush while the sizing dries until transparent and tacky.
Powder your hands with the baby powder to prevent the metal leaf from sticking and tearing if you
touch it. Start at the bottom of the shade, or the most visible side of the shade. My shade hangs
from a pendant, so we look up into it. I wanted the bottom edge to look the cleanest. But if you
have a table lamp, you might want to start at the top, depending on its height.
Open the booklet of metal leaf. Slide one sheet about an inch over the edge and close the
booklet. Hold the booklet by the spine and line up the edge of the sheet of metal leaf with the
edge of the lampshade that meets the fabric.
Use the soft brush to push the metal leaf to the shade interior. Pull the booklet away from the
edge, allowing the full sheet of metal leaf to come out of the book. Paint over the sheet of leaf
with the soft brush, pressing it down to the shade interior.
Repair any tears in the leaf with small pieces of leafing.
With the dry wide paintbrush, brush over the entire interior of the shade removing any loose
pieces of leaf. You may want to do this outside, as the pieces of metal fly everywhere!
Hang the shade and you are finished!
BRONZE NAIL CEILING DESIGN

WHAT YOU NEED
nailhead trim 40 strips (I used 44), or you can buy it in yards here
loose nailhead nails
octagon shape out of cardboard (My ceiling is roughly 8 x 9 and I used a 22 x 21 octagon. You
can simply print an octagon shape online and enlarge it with a copier.)
pencil
hammer
ladder or step stool (for reaching your ceiling)
INSTRUCTIONS
Determine where you plan to begin your pattern you could start around a light fixture, from the
center or from the edge. Then, using a pencil, lightly trace around the pattern on the ceiling.
Follow your pattern and start nailing. A tack is placed at very fifth nailhead. I was able to push the
tacks directly into the drywall in some areas, but it helps to have a hammer handy, as well.
Keep nailing. The strips easily break apart when you get to the end of a line. I measured mine by
putting the strip up to the pattern and breaking off the amount needed.
If your nails dont line up exactly as you had hoped, you can gently remove and shift the lines
over a bit to adjust. Dont worry about slight imperfections in the pattern, though. Just do your
best!
Add a line of tacks around the perimeter for a finishing touch. After adding the border, touch up
any visible pencil lines and smudges with paint.
Done! Patience is key in this project, but the results are worth it!
VINTAGE-STYLE BRASS PENDANT LAMP

WHAT YOU NEED
six metal sheets in brass (or metal of your choice)
pendant lamp kit (mine is from Amazon)
circle template (they sell these at architecture/art supply stores, or you can trace a small circular
object)
marker
disc cutter and hammer (available here or at specialty hardware stores)
gold paint/spray paint (for the light fixture)
10-gauge soft brass wire
brass rivets
INSTRUCTIONS
Take the sheets of brass and use a circle template to draw the design on the first piece.
Use a disc cutter equal to or slightly larger than the diameter of your circle template and a
hammer to cut the holes in the brass sheets. You may be able to do this with a good hole
puncher, as the brass was pretty thin and easy to work with.
Using the first sheet with the punched holes as a template, trace the same design on all the
others and repeat the hole-punching process.
Line up the sheets where they will overlap a bit (to form one longer sheet), and mark where you
will drill holes to attach them to each other using rivets. I used 4 brass sheets for the top shade
and 2 for the bottom shade.
Paint the light bulb cover to match the brass finish (gold will work fine).
To attach the smaller shade to the larger, drill 4 matching holes in the top of the bottom piece and
the bottom of the top piece in order to thread a 10-gauge straight piece of brass wire through
each side. I also soldered 3 spokes (cut from the same 10-gauge wire) to a circle of brass in
order to attach the top piece to the pendant holder, but if you cant solder, you can probably
achieve the same look by bending wire spokes around a circle of brass without the soldering.
Screw the pendant fixture in place to secure the brass structure to the light fixture.
Youre done the piece is ready to hang! The great thing about these materials is that they are
lightweight and easy to manipulate to get the balance right on your ceiling.
STRIPPING TIN
WHAT YOU NEED
nontoxic paint stripper
gloves
scraper and razor blade
trash bag, tarp or newspapers for work surface
paint brush
metal polish
clean rags
optional
old toothbrush
medium grade steel wool
finishing grade sandpaper
INSTRUCTIONS
Brush on paint stripped, following manufacturers instructions. Dont forget to provide proper
ventilation.
Using scraper, remove paint after allotted time. With razor blade, carefully remove any residual
paint. For curved or decorative edges like mine, I used an old toothbrush to remove paint from
cervices.
Remove all traces of stripper and if needed lightly scrub with steel wool to remove rust spots.
Sand off any scratches.
With a clean rag and polish.
PORTABLE FIRE PIT
WHAT YOU NEED: marine silicone, cheap glass frames (these need to fit around the edges of your
planter), rocks, any kind of metal mesh (available at hardware stores), gel fuel, any metal planter with a lip
(edge)
INSTRUCTIONS
Once you buy your planter, find cheap frames with glass that will fit around the edges of your
planter. I used glass document holders from the Dollar Store for $1 each.
Construct a glass box by running a thin bead of silicone along the edge of one glass panel. Place
another piece of glass over the siliconed edge. Press edge into silicone and hold for a few
minutes.
Apply silicone to the second edge, propping both sides up to keep them straight until they dry.
Once the silicone on the two sides has dried, flip the box over so the open edge faces you. Run a
thin bead of silicone along both exposed edges of glass.
Gently place the final piece of glass between the two siliconed edges being careful *not* to smear
the silicone.
Now you have a box! A glass box. Wasnt that easy? Let the silicone dry for 15 minutes or so. Go
eat a cookie. Dont be alarmed if your silicone squeezes out like this. You can clean it up with a
razor once its dry.
Run a final bead of silicone around the entire edge of the glass box. Flip the box over, placing the
siliconed edge on top of the metal planter. Make sure theres enough edge near the center left
over for some metal mesh to rest on it.
Now that you have the structure, just a little tweaking is necessary to prepare it for a fire. Cut a
piece of mesh (I used a cheapo grill grate from Dollar Store) to fit *exactly* inside your glass box.
It will rest on the lip of the planter. Place your opened can of gel fuel in the center of the planter.
Use enough mesh to cover the entire surface of the planter, resting it on the small edge of the
planter youve left inside the glass box.
Cover the mesh loosely with rocks, leaving some space in between the rocks to allow for oxygen
so the fire will stay lit.
Clear the rocks away from above the gel fuel can and carefully light the gel fuel. I use an
advanced technique I light the end of a piece of spaghetti. Whole wheat of course.
COFFEE CAN LANTERNS

WHAT YOU NEED
Coffee Cans
Ball-peen hammer
2 x 4 (one foot length)
1 x 4 (two foot length)
Clamps
Nails, screwdrivers (variety)
Votives
INSTRUCTIONS
Prepare your workspace by attaching the 14 to the 24 as shown using wood screws or nails.
Make sure the 14 extends the 24 on one end by the depth of your can and is attached with the
1inch edge upwards. This thin work area helps to prevent denting to your lantern when punching
the design. Use the clamps to secure the 24 to a sturdy table.
Print out the design of your choice and tape it around your can.
Place the end of the 14 inside your can. Using a small nail, punch the corner dots in the design
you choose. Turn the can as you go to make sure that the area you are punching is supported by
the wood.
Remove the paper. Using your other tools finish punching the rest of the design following your
guide holes. Experiment with a variety of nails and screwdrivers to create different shape and size
punches.
For hanging, use the wire to create a simple hook by threading a length of wire through two holes
on opposite sides of the can and secure.
To finish add 2-3 votives, light and enjoy!
BRUSHED METAL GIFT TAGS

WHAT YOU NEED
A small sheet of aluminum - I picked up the thinnest and smallest piece. This one cost about $8.
Pencil
Ruler
Tin Snips
A Metal cutting tool of some sort. I used a jig saw with a metal-cutting blade. You can certainly try
your luck with tin snips or an electric cutter.
Hammer
Metal Letter Punch kit. I found a cheap (and poor quality) set online for about $10.
Electric drill with a 5/16" bit
320 Grit sandpaper
fine steel wool (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS
Start by measuring and marking 2x3" name tags in a grid. This will help with cutting your lines
with a saw. I clamped my sheet to the edge of a table and cut away. use a piece of wood about as
wide as the sheet to assure even clamp pressure. This will minimize accidental bending.
Once your pieces are cut you'll probably have to hammer them flat. The jig saw is a nutty tool that
can shake all over a flimsy piece of metal.
Next, mark the 45 degree angles for the top of your tags. Use a pair of tin snips, or a hack saw, to
cut these pieces.
Next, you want to soften all the edges so none of your gift receivers cut themselves. To do this,
place the tag on the edge of your workbench and use a sheet of 320 grit sandpaper to buff out
the edges. With a downward and forward stroke, round over every edge on both sides. This will
bring all the edges together into a round shape ... and not into a sharp blade shapeouch!
Drill holes at the tops of your tags and carefully remove the shavings and pieces that will still be
stuck to your tag. If you have a small metal file, use it here to remove the tear out.
I happened to have this cheap letter punch kit, so I decided to add "TO" and "FROM" on each tag.
If you don't have a punch kit like this, you could use a Dremel with an engraving bit to write your
message. You could also use a small nail and hammer holes in the form of the letters you want.
To create the brushed look, I rubbed the tags in a circular motion on a piece of sandpaper that
was taped down to my table. After writing up this post, I realized using fine steel wool would do a
much better job. I recommend you use that instead!
STAMPED METAL MONOGRAM PENDANT

WHAT YOU NEED
metal stamping blank
two sizes of alphabet stamps
light hammer
black Sharpie
fine sandpaper or nail file
steel bench block
INSTRUCTIONS
Begin by marking a dot dead center on your stamping blank. For this project, I used a 1 brass
circular blank. Continue by marking another dot on each side of the center mark, being sure to
space them evenly.
Place your blank onto the steel bench block. The block will absorb the impact when you hammer
the stamp and will make a much neater, more even impression. Use the larger stamp size for the
last name initial. Line it up over the center mark, and make sure that its right side up! Carefully
hammer the top of the stamp with one to two light strikes. Using the two smaller stamps, repeat
the same process, being sure to align them properly.
Once youve stamped all three initials, color in the impressions with the black Sharpie. Dont
worry about marking the metal; just be sure to fill in all the grooves in the letters.
Give the Sharpie a moment to dry, then use your very fine sandpaper or nail file to buff away the
surface ink. Use a small, circular motion, and continue to buff until youve removed all the Sharpie
from the blank.
Use a lightly-dampened soft cloth or paper towel to wipe away the marker residue and any metal
dust, being careful not to inhale any of the dust.
Although you can buy your blanks already hole-punched, I prefer to do it myself. It sometimes
makes the blanks a little bit cheaper, and it allows me to put the hole wherever I want. You need a
metal punch, and you can just line the hole in the punch with where youd like it on the blank.
Thread a jump ring onto the blank, and string it onto a chain or ribbon. Thats it youre done!!!
METAL WORKS
Make a Heart-Shaped Ring Out of Wire

Turn Clothes Hangers Into Shoe Hangers
DIY DRUMS
WHAT YOU NEED
tin cans, leather, decorative fabric, leather laces, Crop-a-dile, wooden dowel and ball, hot glue gun, and
cotton
INSTRUCTIONS
Cut your fabric to fit around your tin can. Use Elmer's Glue to glue it in place.
Lay out your leather and trace around your can. Measure 1 inch around the traced circle and
draw another circle.
Use a pen to map out your holes. Use a Crop-a-dile to punch the holes out. If you don't have a
Crop-a-dile, you can use a large needle to make your holes
Run your leather lace through the holes. Cinch tight over the top of the can. Repeat the same
steps for the bottom. Run another leather lace diagonally through the top and bottom laces (see
picture below for reference).
Insert your wooden dowel into the wooden ball. Glue cotton all over the ball to create your drum
sticks.
Enjoy your adorable new gift!
COLOR BLOCK WINE RACK MADE FROM COFFEE CANS

WHAT YOU NEED
412 large coffee or tomato cans (depending on the size of rack you want to make)
can opener
1 can white spray paint
34 cans brightly colored spray paint
E6000 Glue
cardboard or a drop cloth
gloves (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS
Remove the labels and make sure the cans are completely clean and dry.
With a can opener remove the bottom of each can so they are open on both ends. (If there
are any rough edges, file them down to protect your fingers.
Spray the insides of each can in a bright color. We chose to go with a range of blues and
purples. Be sure to spray from both ends.
Once the insides are dry, spray the outsides of the cans white. We found that this took two
coats to be fully covered.
After the cans are completely dry arrange them into groupings by horizontal row. Glue the
cans together in a row, and secure with binder clips or clothespins while they dry. Repeat
with the additional rows
Once the glue has dried, glue each row together and secure with binder clips. Allow this
round of glue to dry fully before using.
Remove the bottom of the can, and the inner ring around the top if your can has one. This
will allow you to slide the bottles in evenly and make sure everything is balanced.
Glue your rows together and give the glue time to dry. Securing the cans with binder clips or
clothespins will make sure nothing shifts.
Finally, start gluing your rows together. Youll need to stack the cans and mark where to put
the glue.
TIN CAN CADDY

WHAT YOU NEED
8 or so small to medium size tin cans and 1 large coffee can.
Mod Podge
INSTRUCTIONS
Measure the height and circumference of all the outer cans and cut coordinating fabric to these
dimensions. Next, slather a coat of Mod Podge to the outside and wrap and adhere the fabric to
the cans.
Then put a coat of Mod Podge on the outside of the can. Set aside to dry. Paint the coffee can
with gesso and sand lightly. Some of my cans had rust on the inside, so I sponged on
some gesso there as well.
Arrange the small cans around the coffee can (looks super cute like this, but I knew I needed to
have the cans up off the ground).
Mark the inside of the coffee can, where you want the small cans to hang.
Using an awl and a hammer, punch 2 holes in the smaller cans, close to the top rim.
And then punch the coordinating holes in the coffee can.
Next, thread a small length of wire, from the inside of the small cans, then into the coordinating
hole of the coffee can.
And with pliers, twist the wire on the inside to secure the small cans.
BLING PENCIL POT

WHAT YOU NEED
clean can
Decorative vase fillers - marbles
Nail varnish
a sheet of white paper

Modge podge
Hot Glue Gun
INSTRUCTIONS
Start by painting the backs of the marbles with your choice of nail varnish, I picked two blue
(tocompliment the decor in my office) but any colors will work

Cover the tin can with white paper, inside and out sticking it with Modge podge
Cover the can with your tinted marbles - use a hot glue gun
FORK PHOTO DISPLAY

WHAT YOU NEED
Fork
INSTRUCTIONS
Start with the fork facing away from you (the back of the fork towards you).
Bend the 2nd and 3rd prong towards yourself and slightly to the sides.
Bend the 1st and 4th prong away from you and slightly to the sides.
Use the plier and bend the tips of the 1st and 4th prong. This will keep the photo in place.
KITCHEN UTENSIL KEY RACK
WHAT YOU NEED

* 3 pieces of silverware (thin spoons and forks work best)
* Acrylic paint
* 3 pieces of square, unfinished wood (I got mine at Hobby Lobby for 99 cents each)
* Clear Gorilla Glue
* 3 brass triangular hangers (you will glue these to the back of the wood)
INSTRUCTIONS
Bend your utensils: Ive found that the easiest way to do this is to drop the three utensils into
boiling water. Once theyve softened a bit, use tongs to remove the silverware from the water.
Wearing cleaning gloves, bend the silverware around something small and round (I used a small
drinking glass).
Paint your wood pieces, 1-2 coats of acrylic paint each.
glue the brass triangular hooks to the back (make sure they are straight or your key rack will hang
crookedly)
Glue the utensils on the front using the smallest amount of Gorilla Glue possible. If you use too
much glue, it will puff up alongside the silverware, so be careful!
Hang up your new key rack!
COPPER CUFF
WHAT YOU NEED
Copper Tubing
-Tubing Cutter
-Hammer
INSTRUCTIONS
Measure out how long you will need your cuff with a flexible tape measure.
Use the tubing cutter to cut the wire to size and sand the ends so they are smooth.
If you want a flat cuff, use a hammer to pound it flat on a smooth, hard surface.
Use something sturdy and round (and a bit larger than the size of your wrist) to bend the tubing
around. Wear it!
CLEAR BAG WITH COPPER HANDLES

WHAT YOU NEED
/ two copper tubes
/ plastic
/ sewing machine or needle and thread
INSTRUCTIONS
Take measurements. Decide how large you want your bag to be. Mine was 40cm (width) x 30cm
(height).
cut one large rectangle of 40 cm x 60cm and fold it in half, don't forget to add a few centimeters
for the tubes, the final measurements of the plastic would be approximately 40cm x 65cm.
Fold the plastic in half and cut out a square in the middle, where your hand is going to go through.
Fold over the four flaps left on the top and sew creating four 'loops' where the tubes will go
through. Make sure they are tight enough so that the tubes won't slip out.
Close the bag with a seam on each side, not making it go all the way up to leave a bit of room to
open and close the bag.
Put the tubes through the loops (don't worry about their weight, they are actually super light!) and
it's finished!
TIN CAN TABLE NUMBERS

WHAT YOU NEED
drill (with an appropriately sized bit)

gold spray paint
tape
candles
a ruler
letter size colored paper
spray mount
exacto
knife
cutting mat
INSTRUCTIONS
Tape off the inside of your cans so no spray paint gets inside. Spray the outside of each can with
the gold spray paint (or any color you like). You may need to do two or three coats depending on
how opaque you want to the color to be
Once your cans are dry, wrap your printed number stencil around each tin can.
Drill. Start by drilling the outline of the number first (following the stencil line), and then work your
way in. It certainly doesnt have to be perfect, but the more holes you can drill, the more light your
can will give off.
Slide your colored paper into the can on the opposite side as the number. Mark the paper with the
appropriate height and width (you dont want it to cover your numbers. Next trim the paper to the
correct size using your cutting mat and exacto.
Spray mount the trimmed paper to the inside of your can (opposite the number). And youre done!
We used red paper but you can of course use whatever color you like. If youre using a color
youre not sure about, consider doing a test can first and lighting it that night to make sure you
like the look before you finish the rest of your numbers.
METAL WORKS
ALUMINUM CAN ORNAMENTS

WHAT YOU NEED
Empty aluminum beverage cans
Scissors
Sandpaper (sanding block is helpful but not necessary, or wrap sandpaper around a bit of wood)
Pen or pencil
Ribbon or cord for hanging
INSTRUCTIONS
Start with an aluminum drink can.
Cut off the top and bottom with scissors. (Wear gloves and glasses to be extra safe.) A knife is
good to make the first cut so you can get your scissors in there. Cut down the sideif you havent
done so already to get the top and bottom offand flatten it out.
Trace your object. I like leaves, but you could use a drawing or just freehand it. (Snowflakes?
Fruit? Use your imagination.) Bear down with your pencil or ballpoint or other pointy thing so you
make a cutting line.
Cut along the lines. Be careful. Cut aluminum is sharp.
With your pointy thing and using your object as a reference, whether it is a leaf like mine or whathave-you, emboss your cut-out with veins, other details, etc. Take a nail and make a hole for
hanging the ornament.
Sand the piece to remove any burrs and other hazards and to give it a nice pewtery surface. A
sanding block or its equivalent is handy for this. I sanded the front and back. If you prefer, you
can sand the color off entirely, but I left it for a distressed look. The veins or other details are
emphasized by the sanding so you want to make sure you emboss before you sand for this
effect.
Add a ribbon, cord, or a length of raffia to hang it up. Thats it.
Metal wire frames

These are beautiful easy metal wire frames that take only a few minutes, but
speak out with love and caring. They are great picture frames because you
use the wire, to create one word that tells other how you feel. You can use
words like; Love, Mom, Joy, etc.
Lucite frame
A photo to go in the frame
Wire cutters
Tooth picks
Needle nose pliers
Translucent pony beads
Low temperature glue gun
Metallic silver pony beads
Wire solder from a hardware or craft store
Directions:
The wire solder is will be relatively easy to bend. You will want to start with
the word you want to use. Then you will want to create a frame that will go
around the entire frame edge. You can use pliers, wire cutters, or even a pen
to help mold the wording the way you want it.
Now you will need to take the translucent and silver beads and place them in
different areas of the wire craft. These beads will be what you will use to
anchor the metal wire onto the frame. So placing them an inch or two apart
would be a good idea.
The word should be placed at the top or bottom of the picture frame. This
way there is plenty of room for the picture to be seen.
If you need to cut the wires, and bend them a bit to make them mesh
together better, it will work fine also.
Now take the hot clue and put a little glue onto each of the beads. Then
press the beads onto the frame and clear with the toothpicks any extra so
there are not any drops on the frame.
Let the frame dry.
Metal Flower
1 small sheet of rusty tin

dremel tool
daisy stencil from Painting.About.com
tin snips
one bottle cap
one large bead
about twelve inches of copper wire for a stem

hot glue
tacky glue
Directions:
Use your dremel tool to draw out lines and squiggles onto your rusty
tin. If you dont have this tool, you could scrape out some lines with a
nail or screw tip. It will just take a little longer.
Cut out your petals using a tin snips. You may be able to use a heavy
duty scissors if the metal is thin enough. You could easily cut out your
petals free hand. However, if you are like me and want to have a
template, you can print off the free stencil to trace out the petals first.
Use a bottle cap to hot glue each of your petals to. Put a drop of hot
glue on the inner point of the front facing petal. Press this point to the
back of the bottle cap so that most of the petal is showing. The bottle
cap acts as the center of the flower.
Once you have all of your petals glued in place, hot glue your bead to
the middle of the bottle cap. I first put a drop of tacky glue and then
the hot glue for some extra adhesion. If the edges of your petals are
rough from cutting you will want to smooth them down with sand
paper or a metal file. Next, cut out a round circle, about the size of the
bottle cap, to glue to the back of the flower over all of the petal points.
This just adds another layer of adhesion plus a smooth and finished
look from the back.
Cut a section of copper wire the length you need for your container.
Hot glue this to the back of your flower on the round metal circle.
You are now ready to insert your flower into the container of your
choice! You can make a whole bouquet if you like.
Dragonfly pendant
Things you will need: Craft wire, jewelry pliers, Bead, Dragonfly template.
Directions:
Measure and cut 24 inches of craft wire. You can take more if you want
to, for making a bigger dragonfly pendant. I made 3 cm tall dragonfly
using 24 inches craft wire.
Bend the wire into half,
Tighten the bend using a flat nose plier.
Place the bent wire on the template and carefully bend the wire along
the body part of the dragonfly.
o For the wings:
Now to make the wings.
First, I made the bottom right wing, by bending the wire along the
bottom right wing of the template.
Then I made the bottom left, top right and top left wings accordingly.
Just simply bend the wire along the outlines of the dragonfly template.
o For coiling the body:
After completing the wings, coil the part where all the wings join.
I coiled that part 2 times.
After coiling, keep 2.5 cm of craft wire for the head and cut off the rest.
o Head:
I'm confused about whether dragonflies have antenna or not!
Anyways, I had to complete the head somehow, so I inserted a bead

into both wires and made swirly patterns on both of them.
You might need to use beads with bigger holes than usual because it
has to be inserted into 2 wires
o Attaching the Jump Ring:
Make jump rings and attach it with any one of the swirly patterns to
complete the pendant.
Let me know if you like the pendant and make sure to share a picture if
you make one ^_^
Enjoy!
Tin can lanterns

Things youll need:
Empty/clean Tin can

Hammer
Nails
Strong Glue
Spray pain (any color for your liking)
Candle
Wire
Directions:
Using the Strong Glue for metal, Glue the lid underneath the tin can,
this will serves as the floor of the candle inside. And this will make the
lantern more sturdy
Next, by using the hammer and nail, you can poke holes at side of the
tin can, this will illuminate the light to its sides. You can poke holes in
any styles you desire.
And now, we can now paint it using the spray paint.
For the finishing touches, attach the wire at the both side of the tip of
the tin can. So we will be able to have a handle.
Enjoy! You can place the candle inside!
MOSAICS

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Cat Costume

the ears added definition.

Fold the band in half and mark the middle

24 sts. Bind off 8 sts at beg of the next 2 rows

head, arms and legs as you go along, leaving

Basic Baby Socks

K 18 across instep, pick up 10 along other

K6, K2tog, K20, K2tog tbl, K14

Toe: K2tog, K7, repeat around --> 32 sts

Tote Tapper Bag

Things you will need:

Ultrasuede soft fabric, 46 inches wide

LEATHER OWL BAG

Things youll need:

THE LEATHER STRAP WALLET

carpet or upholstery tacks

enough to wrap completely around your boards. Using a tack hammer,

HOW TO PIN PRESSED-IN STUDS

Things youll need:

3 Yards of Flat Cord

HEMP FRIENSHIP BRACELET

Things youll need:

6 Yards of #20 Hemp

Making the knots:

Cross strand 1 over strands 2 & 3 and under strand 4.

RIBBED DOG COLLAR

Things youll need:

2mm 3mm Nylon cord

Things youll need:

*size US #8 (5mm) double pointed needles, set of 5

Using smaller needles, CO 8 sts.

(k2tog, yo) repeat around

Easy Fingerless Gloves

DIY Felted Dryer Balls

DIY Fishtail Friendship Bracelets

Three colors of embroidery/friendship thread.

4th of July Sparkling Pipe Cleaners

2 red pipe cleaners (aka chenille stems)

Fiber wrapped Mason Jars

Clean Mason Jar

Wash and dry Mason jars. Discard lids.

Place 1 piece of stabilizer on the table.

Fabric Bead Bracelet

How to Make Fabric Beads

Crochet Gift Card Holder Pattern

-worsted weight wool yarn

Multicolored Spiked Holder

Santa Claus Mason Jar Cosy

Crochet Flower Coasters

Felt Pencil Roll

DIY Wire- Free Wreath

What you need

Recycled T-shirt- Dogs Tugga Toy

Materials: 20 1 inch x 20 inch (2.5 cm x 50 cm) recycled

DIY 5 minutes hot pack

Put some ample amount of rice

Tie the end and place it on top

1 piece of cardboard, at least 8 inches wide, and 15 inches long

CROCHET KITTY BAG

DIY RAG TO RICH DESIGN

DIY DOLL SHOES

COPPER TUBING SIDE TABLE

Spray your MDF with white first.