building
FLYING DUTCHMAN
By Gerald Taylor White
Design by Westlawn Associates. Naval Architects
I F FLYING DUTCHMAN were a new
and untried type of boat, you would be
entitled to look at her plans and remark,
"She looks wonderful on paper, but it is
all too good to be true." For where else can
you find a boat of this length that has a
huge forecastle, an enclosed toilet room, a
good galley, and two full-length berths, to
say nothing of as much deck room as on
the average 30-footer?
FLYING DUTCHMAN is the latest of
the GREY DAWN designs. The basic hull
lines were developed in Holland centuries
ago and boats of this type have been used
ever since in both the shoal waters of the
Zuyder Zee and the vicious waters of the
North Sea. The first of these Dutchmen to
be designed in this country was GREY
DAWN II. She was built over 20 years
ago and is still afloat. During her two-
score-and-more years she has cruised the
East Coast from Maine to the Carribbean,
and her owner would have sailed her across
to Europe had it not been for the war. She
is a 37-footer. Scores of duplicates have
been built and are now in service on both
coasts, the Gulf, and the Great Lakes.
Yachtsmen who saw the 37-footer
wanted a smaller edition; so a 29-footer
was designed. Again the boat out-per-
formed all expectations. The next was a 22-
footer, the prototype of FLYING DUTCH-
MAN. In this, the most recent of the
designs, the original lines have been kept
without a single deviation—wise men do
not gamble with perfection. Some changes,
based on previous experiences, have been
made in the deck and cabin arrangements.
Here is an auxiliary that—for a boat of
her size—is extremely easy to build. There
105
are no steam-bent frames, no cross-bend-
ing of parts. Some of the planks and the
chines and clamps will be too stiff to go in
cold. Wrap them with old rags or sacking
and provide a supply of boiling water to
be poured on the rags as the clamp screws
are gradually tightened. She isn't a light
little plaything, she is all boat; and, if
built according to the plans and specifica-
tions, should last for at least 25 years.
All of you may not be technically in-
clined, but to really appreciate the virtues
of the boat, it may be worthwhile to con-
sider for a few minutes some of the mathe-
matical aspects of the design. Unlike most
boats, her center of buoyancy is closer to
the midship section than to the next station
aft. This is an ideal situation if the entire
underbody can be properly balanced. If you
will look at the drawing entitled Lines and
Offsets, you will see a dotted line marked
Curve of Areas. The shape of that line
106
indicates the path of the water around and
under the hull. Note that the forward and
after ends of that curve are almost identi-
cal. In a motorboat, that would be fatal
to speed; in a sailing craft, it is ideal from
both the speed and rough-water angles.
If the lines of FLYING DUTCHMAN
could be compared with any American type,
it would be the Down-East dory. But the
dory is known for its lack of stability,
while the GREY DAWN type is famed for
exactly the opposite. The answer lies in the
way the hull is balanced. Look at the
Curve of Righting Arms on the Accommo-
dation Plan. It represents the inherent
power in the hull that causes it to return
to an even keel. Many sailing boats have
a curve that reaches its peak at about 30°
and then falls off sharply. You will note
that the stabilizing effect of this hull shape
is still going upwards at even 40°. At any
such angle, the deck edge would be way
Mechanix Illustrated
under water. In other words, a careless
skipper could actually sail the boat under
water but she would still be struggling to
right herself.
In rough water, her widely flaring sides
lift her up and over the seas instead of
plunging through them. It would be severe
weather indeed to cause this boat to drive
her bow under. This is what designers call
abnormally high reserve buoyancy. She is
at her best with the wind abeam or slightly
forward or aft of that point. Going to
windward, she will point up surpris-
ingly well—as a stunt, a sister ship was
sailed dead to windward, tacking up a
channel 100 ft. in width—but her worst
point of sailing is going dead before the
wind, especially when running into rough
water. Her bows are a bit bluff for this
sort of work; so she will carry a heavy
bow wave. The wise skipper will soon
learn this and won't sail a direct down-
wind course.
The power plant shown is a Universal
8-hp. Fisherman. Any small engine of
about the same power will do providing
that it doesn't turn over 1,500 r.p.m. Don't
expect a little high-speed engine, turning a
10-in. propeller, to be sufficient. It is not
the amount of power, but the combination
of power and relatively low revolutions.
If you must get a high-speed engine, it will
have to have a reduction gear, for FLYING
DUTCHMAN needs a propeller at least 14
in. in diameter, and 16 in. would be better
yet. Like many successful auxiliaries, the
engine is installed so the propeller is off
center. Thus the natural tendency of a boat
to be thrown off her course due to wheel
torque is counteracted. This would not
apply to the average motorboat as the area
of lateral plane is much less and you would
have steering troubles.
Make up your mind to one thing before
you build her—that you will not change a
single line. Years of experience went into
her design. The construction, shapes, lo-
cations of weights, and all other factors
are correct the way they are shown. If
you attempt to change any measurements,
alter the rig, or monkey with weights, the
result will probably be a total waste of your
time and money.
FLYING DUTCHMAN is timed-tried,
comfortable, reasonably fast, and built to
last many, many years. Can you ask for
more in any boat?
SPECIFICATIONS
Length Over All 22 ft. 0 in.
Length Waterline 18 ft. 9 in.
Beam, Extreme 9 ft. 5.5 in.
Beam, Waterline 7 ft. 9 in.
Draft, Board Up 20.5 in.
Draft, Board Down 4 ft. 0 in.
General. The objects of these specifica-
tions are to help in explaining the drawings
and to specify certain materials and sizes.
In every case, dimensions mentioned in
these specifications should be considered
as authentic, even if the plans do not scale
the same exact size. Lettered dimensions on
the drawings should be taken in preference
to scaling.
Laying Down. To insure accuracy, it is
highly advisable to lay down the set of
lines full size on the shop floor. This is be-
cause a variation of only the thickness of
a line on the drawing will make a differ-
ence in the full-size boat. Only when it is
impossible to obtain a smooth, level floor
upon which the lines may be laid down
should the frames be made directly from
the Table of Offsets. Note that the offsets
extend to the outside of the planking and
the decking and that the frames fit to the
inside of planking and decking; therefore
the thickness of planking and decking
must be deducted when the frames are
made.
Keel. White oak, 4 in. thick, built as
shown in detail drawing. Note that to save
lumber there is a piece of triangular dead-
wood aft and a similar piece forward. The
keel is slotted for the centerboard from a
point 7 in. forward of Station 4 to a point
1 in. abaft Station 7. This slot is 1-1/2in.
wide. The fastenings for the keel and its
parts are 3/8-in. through or drift bolts, as
indicated on the drawing. The surfaces of
all joints must be well covered with non-
107
hardening marine glue or white lead before
being drawn together.
Stem. White oak, sided 4 in., molded
6 in., arranged as shown and extended far
enough above the rail line so it can be fin-
ished off with the ornamental curve. Below
the clipper stem it is faced off to a width
of 3/4 in., but in way of the clipper stem,
facing off should be left until that piece
is in place. The entire stem is rabbetted for
the planking.
Clipper Stem. White oak, preferably a
grown knee, 2-1/2 ". thick where it joins
the stem and tapered to 1-1/4". thick at the
forward upper point and, gradually, to 3/4
in. thick at the forward lower point.
Stem Knee. White oak, sided 3 in. and
molded about as shown. You can get
slightly more room in the forepeak and
use shorter bolts if you curve the upper
portion of the stem knee, although it in-
volves more work.
Stern Post. White oak, sided 4 in., molded
4 in., and notched for the l-1/4 ". transom.
Stopwaters. Half-inch white-pine stop-
108
waters are driven where indicated, there
being two forward and one just forward
of Station 2.
Transom. White oak, 1-1/4 " thick, in as
wide boards as possible. If made of marine
plywood, it can be 1 in. thick. Note that
the notch in the stern post must be the
same thickness as the transom. If made
of boards, the seams run horizontally and
are backed by 7/8x2-in. screw-fastened
cleats. The forward face of the transom
is finished off with 7/8x2-in. white-oak
screw-fastened cleats to form an extra
backing for the planking. If a plywood
stern is used, the cleats should be flush
with the edges of the transom. An alterna-
tive method when the transom is made of
oak boards is to have the cleats 1-1/4 in.
thick and to set them in the thickness of
the planking from the edges of the transom.
In this case, the plank ends butt against
the transom and great care must be taken
to apply plenty of marine glue between the
cleats and the transom.
[Continued on page 128]
Mechanix Illustrated
 Flying Dutchman
[Continued from page 108]
Centerbaard Head Ledges. White oak, Mast Step. White oak, 4x4 in., notched
2-1/2x3-1/2 "., with the larger dimension running over three frames, as shown, and secured to
athwartships. At the bottom, each head ledge those frames with 1/4x8-in., drift bolts. A
is notched to a thickness of 1-1/2in. so it can be square hole, 3 in. fore and aft by 1-1/4 ", is
slipped down into the centerboard slot. Plenty cut in the step to receive the heel of the mast.
of marine glue should be applied at this point Bottom Frames. White oak, 7/8x4 in. One
and, when in place, two bolts should pass en- frame is placed on each Station, as provided
tirely through the keel and each head ledge. by the Offset Table, and there is one addi-
Both head ledges are long enough to extend to tional frame at each Half Station. There is
the cabin roof, the forward one helping to sup- also one extra bottom frame at the after side
port the roof beam at about Station 7 and the of the after head ledge. Two feet off the cen-
after one being beneath a block of white oak terline, each of these frames has a 3/4x2-in.
spanning two of the roof beams, as shown. limber hole. This distance cannot be main-
Great care must be taken that these head tained forward of Station 7, where the limber
ledges are square with the waterline in both holes will have to be alongside the keel batten
directions. and triangular in form, as shown on Sections
CenterboardTrunk Logs. White oak, 2x6 8 and 9. Each bottom frame fastens through
in. Along each upper inner edge there is a the keel with a 1/4-in. through bolt. Note that
lxl-in. rabbet facing the slot. They are also the bottom frames fall on the after sides of the
rabbetted at the ends, around the head ledges, station marks.
to which they are bolted. The distance be- Side Frames. White oak, 7/8x3"., located
tween the trunk logs is equal to the width on the forward sides of the station marks.
of the slot. These logs must through-bolt in These frames should extend quite a distance
the rabbet all the way down to the bottom above the main sheer, as the rail frames are
of the keel, there being not less than five bolts attached to them. At the chine, the side and
in each of the logs. The trunk sides are made bottom frames are notched for the chine and
of two layers of 1-in. white oak, the inner are fastened together with three 1/4-in. bolts.
layer being screwed into the trunk-log rabbet The rail frames are the same size as the side
after plenty of marine glue is applied. Use frames and are on the after sides of the side
l-3/4 -in. No. 12 screws, spaced not more than frames, fastening to each with three 1/4"
3 in. apart. The outer layer is of similar ma- bolts. These frames project an inch or so above
terial, but arranged so the seams of the two the rail line and can later be cut. The three
layers are staggered. Plenty of glue or white frames at Stations 9, 9-1/2, and 10 have extra
lead must be applied between the layers. The floor timbers, the same size as the bottom
two layers are fastened together along the frames, extending across the top of the stem
seams with 1-3/4-in. No. 9 screws, spaced no knee and fastening with two bolts to each
more than 4 in. apart. The trunk sides are side frame.
built up to a total height of 34 in. above the Keel Battens. Between each bottom frame,
keel. Great care must be exercised in the con- except in way of the centerboard trunk, there
struction of this trunk to make it tight and is a white-oak keel batten, 1-1/4x6 in. This
strong. 6-in. measurement is net and even an addi-
Bitts. There is a main mooring bitt, 4x4 tional width will do no harm. Each keel batten
in., of white oak or locust, located as shown. fastens to the keel with not less than three
mortised into the stem knee, and fastened 3-in. galvanized boat nails driven at slight
there with not less than two drift bolts. This angles. The joint between batten and keel
bitt extends 9 in. above the forward decking must be coated with marine glue or white
' and is fitted with a 1-in. bronze pin approxi- lead.
mately 9 in. long. Above deck, the bitt is neatly Chine. There are two chines, an inner and
beveled off. Aft, there are two additional bitts outer one, both being 1-1/4x2-1/2 " white oak,
extending from the bottom of the boat up preferably in single lengths. The outer one
the face of the transom and for a distance of fits into the frame notches, boxes into the stem
15 in. above the rail line. These are of white and transom cleats, and fastens to each frame
oak or locust, 3x3 in., spaced 22 in. apart with at least one 2-in. boat nail. The inner
and thoroughly secured to the transom with chine is bent at the intersection of side and
1/4 " bolts. At their top is a 1-in. bronze rod bottom frames and must be beveled off on
to be used as a traveller. the bottom to form a good brace for the frame
This rod is approximately 30 in. long and is laps. Better than beveling would be to notch
pinned to prevent it from shifting from side the underside of the chine across each of the
to side. [Continued on page 130]

128
 Flying Dutchman
[Continued from page 128]
bottom frames. Fasten with one boat nail into shape of the engine bed as it will vary to suit
each side and bottom frame. the engine installed. Basically, it is made of
Main Clamps. Longleaf yellow pine, l-1/4x 2-in. yellow pine or white oak, notched over
2-1/2",, in single lengths if possible, fastened frames from Stations 2 to 3-1/2, and through-
to each side frame with two galvanized boat bolted to them. The bed is installed at an
nails and boxed into the transom cleats. It angle to the centerline in such a position that
is important that the clamps be located in the shaft line intersects the centerline at Sta-
the proper position below the sheer line so tion 3 and is approximately 12 in. off the cen-
the deck beams can rest upon them and the terline and not less than 10 in. below the top
top of the decking come exactly on the main of the keel at Station 1/2. It is highly important
sheer line. to know what engine is to be installed and
Main Deck Beams. 7/8X2-1/2 ", cut to a what the direction of rotation will be. A left-
camber of 19 ft. 6 in. There is one extra deck hand engine turning a righthand propeller'
beam as a filler between the bulkhead and should be installed with the propeller on the
the regular beam on Station 8. In -way of the starboard side. A righthand engine turning
hatch above the forepeak, the beam on Sta- a lefthand wheel should be installed at the
tion 9 is cut as shown and the hatch framed opposite angle. Where the shaft passes through
up with fore-and-aft carlings the same size the hull, a 4x4-in. wedge-shaped shaft log
as the beams. Deck beams from Stations 3-1/2 is installed and bolted down to the planking
to 7 are installed on the forward sides of the over a canvas and white-lead gasket. This
side frames, being screwed or bolted to the shaft log carries the stuffing box. The after
heads of the side frames. In way of the cabin, end of the shaft is carried on a strut bolted
there are short beams extending to a point through the planking with fillers on the inside,
2 ft. 10 in. from the centerline of the boat said strut to have dimensions to suit the shaft
and resting upon l-1/4x3-in. carlings firmly size and angle required for the individual
attached to the bulkheads at Stations 3 and 8. engine.
Cockpit Deck Beams. Same size as main Cabin Construction. Each cabin side is
deck beams, but cut to no camber. Bolt to carried on a 2x4-in. oak or yellow-pine sill.
the after side of each frame and locate so the These sills are cut off at the bottoms at 8°
cockpit decking will be 9 in. above the water- angles from horizontal to impart the proper
line or 3 ft. above the base line. In way of rake to the cabin sides and their tops are
the engine box, a hatch is framed up. It is rabbeted to take said cabin sides. At the
suggested that the engine be installed at about forward and after ends of the cabin are
this time so the size of the hatch can be made similar sills. The forward one bolts through
to suit the machine installed, making sure to a deck beam and the after one bolts through
provide plenty of space for working around a cockpit beam and is framed up around the
the engine and reaching into the storage space engine box. The cabin sides are 1-in. oak,
under the cockpit deck. It is advisable to place yellow pine, or mahogany and are screw-
a post on the centerline from each of the cock- fastened into the lxl-in. rabbets in the tops
pit beams down to the keel to keep the deck of the sills. Use 1-3/4in. No. 10 screws at in-
from sagging. tervals of no more than 4 in. While marine
Mast Partners And Fillers. In way of the plywood could be used for these sides, con-
mast and for the entire distance from it to the siderable difficulty would be encountered
stem there are 2-in. fillers of scrap wood to when rabbeting it for the windows. The
provide a firm foundation for the mast wedges height of the sides is taken from the outboard
and the bitt. profile.
Breasthook. 1-1/4 in. thick, in the form of a The bottom and sides of each window open-
triangle, filling in between the forward ends ing have 1/4X1/2 in. rabbets in order that a
of the clamps and the stem. Should be well conventional jump-and-swing sash can be in-
fastened through the clamps and also to the stalled. On the outside, to protect the opening,
stem. there is a 3/8x2-in. batten at top and bottom.
Bulkheads. The bulkhead at Station 8 is Each sash frame is lxl-1/2-in. oak or mahogany,
constructed of 1-in. marine plywood. In way rabbeted for the double-thick glass, which is
of the lavatory, a paneled door leading to the held in place with quarter-round molding.
forepeak is installed. While this can be a Each sash is fitted inside with a handle and a
hinged door, it will be more convenient if it hook for securing it to a roof beam. In the
is arranged to remove, being held in place forward end of the cabin are two 6-in. port-
with cleats and thumb buttons. lights. •
Engine Bed. It is impossible to specify the (Part II will appear next month).

130
 By Gerald Taylor White
Design by West/own Associates
A S mentioned last month, Flying
. Dutchman is patterned after the
traditional, time-tested Dutch yachts.
She has amazingly comfortable and
roomy cruising accommodations for
two. This month we are presenting
the remainder of the drawings and
specifications.
Cabin Construction, continued.
While marine plywood can be used
for the cabin sides, considerable diffi-
culty would be encountered when
rabbeting for the windows; so you
are advised to use the material
previously specified. The 1x2-in.
roof beams are cut to a radius of 11
ft. 6 in. and are located as shown in the
plans. One of these beams notches into
the upper end of the forward headledge.
In way of the cabin hatch, the beams are
framed up in the manner usual for hatches.
Note that the cabin sides extend beyond
the bulkhead on Station 3. The cabin door
is made of the same material as the bulk-
head and is framed up to suit. The hatch
is also of the same material, is arranged on
low coamings, and is of the double-hinged
type—the after portion folds forward; then
both halves can be flipped forward onto
the cabin roof. All necessary hooks, hinges,
and locks are to be provided. The hinges
for the hatch and for the engine box must
be of the continuous type. The cabin roof
is 3/4 " T&G white pine or spruce, with
a V-bead on the underside. This roof is
covered with 8-oz. canvas that is laid in
glue and turned down under the cabin-
side moldings. The roof beams are sup-
ported by 1x2-in. cabin clamps, which are
shoved up tightly under the ends of the
beams and screw-fastened to the cabin
sides.
Planking. White cedar, white pine, long-
leaf yellow pine, cypress, or mahogany, to
finish 7/8-in. thick. The number of planks
used are shown in the section drawings,
108
but it may be necessary to insert stealers
at the forward end. These stealers should
not run to a feather edge, but should be
nibbed into the planks. Where butts are
necessary, they are to be backed with
%-in. oak blocks reaching from frame to
frame. Each block is to be at least 1-1/2".
wider than the plank. Butts in adjoining
planks are to be at least 3 ft. apart. The
planking is secured to the frames with
3-in. boat nails driven at slight angles 4 in.
apart. At the stem, stern, chines, and
keel battens, use 2-in. No. 12 screws. Bevel
the planking so there are 1/16". caulking
openings on the outside and the seams are
light-tight on the inside.
Decking. All decking is similar in speci-
fications to the planking, but is covered
with 10-oz. canvas that is turned up inside
the sill and the bulwark ceiling. At the
frameheads, the decking extends as close
to the frames as possible, watertight joints
being made with the bulwark planking,
which is 3/4in. thick and extends to a point
1 in. below the rail cap. This must fit very
tightly against the deck and must be well
fastened to the frames. To further insure
watertightness, a shaped quarter-round
molding is screw-fastened at the junction
of deck and bulwark. All decking is fast
ened with 2-1/2" boat nails. The cockpit
deck is the same as the main deck. Be-
tween Frames 1/2 and 1,1.5 and 2, and 2.5
and 3, the deking extends through to the
planking. Great care should be taken
here to insure watertightness. Scuppers
are then cut through the planking so any
water can drain overboard.
Waterways. Around the upper outer
edge of the cabin are 1x1-1/2-in. combined
waterways and grab rails, which are
screw-fastened through the canvas into
the cabin top. Cut scuppers through these
waterways at the low spots to provide
drainage.
Centerboard. White oak, 1-1/4 in. thick,
and of the shape shown in the detail. All
pieces forming the board are fastened to-
gether with 3/8-in. galvanized rod. Lead
or iron ballast, about 35 lbs., is added to
overcome flotation. The board is hung on
a 7/8-in. bronze pin that passes entirely
through the keel and is fitted with cotter
pins and washers on the outside. A bronze
bushing is placed in the centerboard over
the pin. A light chain is shackled to the
after end of the centerboard and runs
through a sheave at the top of the after
headledge, then down to a light tackle.
After the board is installed, a cap is secured
across the top of the trunk. It has small
moldings along the edges to prevent small
articles from rolling off.
Rudder. White oak, 1-1/4" thick, built
up the same as the centerboard, and
shaped as shown, with three notches cut
in the after edge to act as a boarding lad-
der. It is hung on heavy gudgeons and
pintles, or else on heavy bronze screweyes
through which a 3/8-in. rod is run. The
tiller is made of a piece of white oak or
ash, 2-1/2 in. deep, 1-1/4 in. thick, and ap-
proximately 4 ft. 4 in. long. It is shaped
as shown in the plans. A ball may be
carved on the end if desired. The tiller
fastens to the rudder through a slot the
full thickness of the rudder blade. On each
side of the slot there are oak blocks about
16 in. long and 1-1/4 in. thick, nicely
tapered towards the bottom, through-
bolted above and below the tiller slot, and
screw-fastened at the bottom. Extreme
care should be taken to make a strong job
here as there is considerable strain on the
tiller.
Moldings. Along the main sheer and the
rail line there are 1-1/2in. half-round oak
moldings. These must be very well screwed
into the frames and it is important that
thick paint or marine glue be applied to
109
 the undersides of the moldings before they
are fastened. Additional half and quarter-
round moldings are used where required
to make a neat finish.
Rail Cap. The entire bulwark from stem
to stern is covered with a white oak or
longleaf pine 1x5-in. cap. This rests
horizontally on top of the frames and
screw-fastens into the edges of the planks
and into each frame. In way of any fittings
attached to the cap, oak filler blocks, fitted
tightly between the frames and fastened
thereto, are used.
Interior Arrangement, Below decks
forward there is a large forepeak. It is
reached through a deck hatch and through
the panel in the forward bulkhead. A light
grating is laid here to keep ropes and sails
from getting into the bilge. It is suggested,
although not necessary, that a 6-in. dead-
light be installed in the hatch. The toilet
room is built, as shown, of %-in. marine
plywood. A marine watercloset is installed
with lead-pipe connections for inlet and
outlet. Outboard of the watercloset, shelves
for linen and other equipment are installed.
Around the inside of the toilet room, coat
hooks are installed to suit. In the main
cabin, both of the berths are built of %-in.
marine plywood and fitted with lockers
underneath. The tops of the cushions are
12 in. above the floor. The depths of the
berth boxes depend upon the thickness of
the cushions and whether or not box
springs are used. Shelves are installed out-
110
board of the berths and a folding table
of 3/4-in. plywood is fitted against the
centerboard trunk. A small locker for guns
and rods is installed against the after bulk-
head between the companion ladder and the
starboard berth. On the port side, a dresser,
11 in. high, is constructed, with lockers
under it and dish racks over. The stove
rests on this dresser in the position shown
and must run athwartships. The sink
measures 12x12 in. It drains overboard,
the dresser being raised high enough to
allow this. The water supply is by means
of a 3/8-in. copper tube with gravity flow
from the tank forward. The companion-
way ladder is made of 3/4-in. plywood and
fitted with hooks so it can be removed to
gain access to the engine and the lazar-
ette. It is suggested from the standpoint of
safety that the stove be set in a zinc-
covered box and that the bulkhead abaft
the stove be covered with 1/4-in. asbestos
and then covered with zinc.
Ventilation. A 3-in. mushroom-type
ventilator is installed in the forward deck
to keep articles [Continued on page 136]
Mechanix Illustrated
 BILL OF MATERIALS
(Approximate Quantities Required)

111
 Flying Dutchman
[Continued from page 110]
in the forepeak from remaining damp. Ven- cheek leads for the lazyjack; two thimbles, two
tilation to the engine can be provided with eyebolts on the boom, and two eyebolts on the
two mushroom-type vents or a number of mast for the lazyjack; one boom jaw with
holes in engine box. band; six mast tangs; one masthead compres-
Tanks. There are two cylindrical gal- sion band with four eyes; four chain plates;
vanized tanks fitted on the forward deck in one bobstay plate; one compression band with
heavy oak chocks. Each tank should have four eyes for the bowsprit; seven turnbuckles;
at least one swash plate and a filling cap with one V-type strut for the jumper stays; and one
a small vent in the top. The tanks are held mast slide with the necessary fittings.
in place with heavy galvanized straps lined Standing Rigging. All 1/4-in. flexible plow
with belt lining and drawn down either with steel, eye-spliced and attached to fittings with
turnbuckles or with lag screws. Where the shackles or patented attachments. There are
outlet pipes pass through the deck, the open- four shrouds, a forestay, a jibstay, and two
ings should be tight. After passing through jumper stays.
the deck, the pipes go outboard to the sides of Running Rigging. Halliards, 1/2-in.-dia.
the boat just inside the frames; then down and manila; jib sheets, 3/8-in.-dia. manila; main
aft under the cabin floor. A shut-off valve sheet, 3/4".-dia. manila; lazyjacks, 3/8".-dia.
must be arranged under the deck for each manila. All to be properly spliced and sized.
tank. The starboard tank is for fuel and the Block List. All of the blocks are to be of a
port tank for water. size to take the running rigging without chance
Deck Box. A deck box of 7/8-in. waterproof of binding if the rope swells. One single block
plywood is installed alongside the engine for the jib halliard; one single block and one
hatch. It is used as a seat and as a receptacle single block with becket for the main halliard;
for small articles. two single blocks, one double block with
Icebox. Similar to the deck box, except traveller ring, and one eyebolt for the main
that it consists of an inner and an outer box sheet.
with at least 1 in. of ground-cork or glass- Sails. Eight-oz. sailcloth of a quality to be
wool insulation between the two boxes. The approved by the owner. The jib is to be fitted
drain for melted ice runs onto the deck. with hanks for the stay. The mainsail is to
Boom Crotch. A scissors-type boom crotch, have slide fittings along the mast, lacing eyes
of 1-1/4x4 " white oak, is built as shown in the along the boom, a headboard at the peak, and
detail and arranged to hook to the insides of two sets of reef points: one 2 ft. above the
the traveller bitts at cockpit level and to ex- foot and another 3 ft. 6 in. above the foot.
tend far enough above deck to carry the boom To extend the roach, batten pockets are to
when the sails are furled. be installed at 4-ft. intervals. Both sails are
Bowsprit. White oak or longleaf pine, 8 ft. to be supplied with sail covers and strops.
long and made from a 4x4-in. piece of material Sail Dimensions. Jib: Luff, 19 ft. 2 in.
tapered down to 3 in. at the outboard end. It Foot, 9 ft. 6 in.
passes through an opening in the bulwark on Leech, 15 ft. 10 in.
the starboard side of the stem, to which it is Mainsail: Hoist, 28 ft.
through-bolted. Abaft the stem it is rectangu- 3 in.
lar in section; forward of the stem it is gradu- Foot, 17 ft.
ally rounded off. It bolts down through 7 in.
the deck fillers and through the bitt. Leech, 32 ft,
Mast and Boom. To be of selected spruce exclusive of
and made as per the details. The mast is round • roach
in section with a maximum diameter of Roach, 16 in.
5-1/2 in. The boom is rectangular in section, Ballast. Like all centerboard boats, this
made of a piece of 2-1/4-in. material. It is left craft will require trimming ballast, the exact
straight on top, slightly rounded on the bot- amount depending upon the equipment in-
tom, and tapered towards the ends as stalled. So locate it to bring her to her de-
shown. signed waterline. All of this ballast is inside.
Deck Fittings. One pair 6-in. bow chocks for- In a boat of this character, ordinary building
ward; one 8-in. main-sheet cleat on the travel- brick provides an excellent ballast. It is cheap
ler aft; two 6-in. jib cleats bolted through and easy to install. The cabin flooring should
blocks on top of the cabin; two swivel-type jib be arranged with frequent hatches so the
leads, also bolted through blocks on the cabin ballast can be installed or moved. When the
roof; two 8-in. halliard cleats, one on each boat is to be hauled out for any length of
side of the mast; two 5-in. lazyjack cleats; two [Continued on page 138]

136 Mechanix Illustrated

 Flying-Dutchman
[Continued from page 136]
time, it is advisable to remove the ballast.
Painting. All painting to be of a color to
suit the owner. There should not be less than
three coats of either paint or varnish on the
outside of the boat, no less than two coats on
the inside. A suggested painting scheme is
red antifouling paint for the bottom and the
boottop, black from there to the main sheer,
dark red between the sheer and the rail, white
cabin, white spars, and buff decks.
Anchors and Lines. Depending on whether
the boat is to be kept in an exposed location
or not, there should be at least two yachts-
man's anchors: a 50-lb. one and a 25-lb. one,
or the equivalent in patented anchors. There
should be not less than 75 feet of 1-in. line
for the heavy anchor, the same amount of
3/4-in. line for the light anchor, and at, least
50 feet of 3/4-in. line for warps.
Well, Mates, that's the story. Our last word
of warning. If you've carefully read the fore-
going, you can readily understand that any-
one who builds a small boat must be a jack-
of-all-trades. He must do countless jobs of
carpentry, attend to the plumbing, install the
wiring, fit the engine, cut and splice rigging,
and paint and varnish the finished job. All of
this requires careful planning, especially if
you are an amateur: so don your thinking
cap and make haste slowly! •

138 Mechanix Illustrated