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This basic guide is born of my first ever attempt at making a Romanian style Panpipe. As
such it contains tips and "on the hoof" solutions to the sort of problems associated with a
first-time project. Please believe me. It is possible to make a good playable instrument at
the first attempt. Above is a picture of my first flute halfway through construction. I hope
you give it a go....it is a rewarding endeavour.
Let's start with the basic tools and materials you will need. Firstly, some fairly standard
tools:
A good quality coping saw (to cut the bamboo to length and to cut and shape the base of the
Panpipe)
A number of small clamps (to hold the base in place while the glue sets)
A round file (approx. 1/4", 6mm diameter, to file out any furring or debris inside the cane
tubes).
A curved form or base (can be made from bent poster-card or similar or from a block of
wood. A piece cut from a large drum would suffice, but in all cases the curvature should be
regular and not too severe).
A sharp utility or modeling knife (to scrape the natural coating from the bamboo for a
more pleasing finish if preferred)
......and materials
A selection of bamboo canes (external diameters between 1.2 & 2.2 cm. Try to select
bamboo which is as straight as possible, is not cracked or holed nor overly discolored. The
wider canes should have at least 25cms between the nodes in parts. All the canes will need
to be relatively thin walled to avoid the need for drilling, which is to say the middle of the
cane should be predominantly space and not bamboo wall)
3 Thin (approx. 2mm) sheets of wood measuring at least 50cms x 8cms (the harder and
tighter grained the wood, the better). The wood should be thin enough to bend to the curve
of the Panpipe without the need for steaming. The sheet size quoted above is about the
minimum needed to provide a curved front, back and base for the instrument after cutting
to shape.
Epoxy or PVA glue (epoxy is more effective to start with, it is more forgiving of inaccuracies
in joining, especially the tubes which, when joined, will have to withstand a curve being cut
along the bottom edges. PVA is "joiners" glue and is used by professional instrument
makers but usually requires accurate joining).
A selection of wooden (preferably balsa) dowels of diameters 1 to 2 cm (required to plug the
tube bottoms. Any wood will do but balsa is lighter and easier to shape).
Natural beeswax (available in sheets, two to three per flute will do, this is used to seal and
tune each tube...there is nothing that does the job better).
Construction
Now hopefully you have the tools and materials at hand and have been guided as to the fine
detail by the photographs.
So your first step is to cut the bamboo to size. For a 22 tubed Romanian Panpipe range G1
to G4 you will need to cut bamboo tubes to more or less the measurements shown in the
table at the bottom of this page. Do not try to follow them precisely and remember that the
tubes are better too long than too short. There is NOTHING you can do about a tube that is
too short except replace it. The table starts with the lowest tube G1 and progresses up the
scale. Diameter refers to the External diameter of the bamboo across its widest part.
Having completed all the tubes in this manner , lay them player's side down on your jig or
form with the longest tubes on the right. You can then glue the tubes together. I recommend
using a slow-drying two part epoxy (e.g. Araldite). This will hold the tubes in place whilst
you temporarily fix them with adhesive tape and will also allow plenty of time for
adjustment before the glue starts to go off. Leave them to set for at least 24 hours.
you will need to be able to get some sort of sound from blowing across the tube top to be
able to roughly tune the tube.
Coat the plug in epoxy glue and insert into the bottom of each tube. Position the plug such
that when you sound the tube the tone is about a semi-tone below that ultimately required
for the finished item. Thus the G1 tube needs to be plugged so as to sound around F#1, the
A1 tube around G# etc. An electronic keyboard, tuning device or other properly tuned
instrument will suffice as a tuning guide. Once all the tubes are plugged, sand the plugs
themselves where necessary to bring them flush to the cut tube bottoms.
The two end pieces which are joined to the base can be made by cutting lengthways in half
small pieces of bamboo, the internal diameters of which match the external diameters of
the lowest and highest tubes. These pieces are then used to "sleeve" the outside edges of the
top and bottom tubes.
The front and back of the shoe should now be glued to the bottom of the Panpipe and
clamped into place as shown below.
When these pieces have dried (24 hours minimum) the base and ends can be glued in. The
joins do not have to be perfect as they can be sanded into shape later. Be sure to shape the
botton and top end-pieces to match the shape and curvature of the base of the shoe.
Once all the shoe is fitted , take some time to sand it all into shape and make it smooth and
pleasing to the eye.
Once you have completed tuning the tubes, make sure each is properly sealed by closing
your mouth over each one in turn and blowing hard. There should be no seepage of air
from the tube. A weak solution of detergent in water brushed onto the tube surfaces when
using this procedure will reveal the smallest of leaks in the tube wall , although these are
rare , if encountered they will probably necessitate replacement of the tube unless the leak
is due to a clearly visible "hole" which can be filled with wood filler. Leaks at the tube
bases can be remedied by introducing a heated metal rod to the wax plug. This should
cause the wax to melt and seal any gaps. The tube will then have to be re-tuned using more
beeswax.
If you are going to varnish your Panpipe , do it now before your oil the tube interiors as
any oil which finds its way onto the outside of the instrument will mean that the varnish
will not adhere properly.
Finally, a natural oil (not mineral oil) such as almond oil swabbed into the interiors of each
tube will keep the walls moist and prevent deterioration. Oil the insides around every week
for the first month and then around every month, particularly if you are playing the
instrument regularly (the breath contains acids which will attack the bamboo if it is not
protected by the oil).
I hope you enjoy your first home-made Panpipe.....this guide is by no means
definitive....you will need to practise with the sequence of construction and assembly
methods to suit yourself. If you have any difficulty with techniques or materials, please email me and I will do all I can to help. Good Luck.
Tube
Length-(cm)L
Diameter-(mm)
G1
A1
B1
C2
D2
E2
F#2
G2
A2
B2
C3
D3
E3
F#3
G3
A3
B3
C4
D4
E4
28
25
23
21
19
18
16
15
14
13
12
12
11
11
10
10
10
9
9
9
23
22
21
20
19.5
19
18.5
18
17.5
17
16.5
16
15.5
15
14.5
14
13.5
13
13
12.5
F#4
G4
9
9
12.5
12.5