KNR 112

Quiz 1

INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY

Welcome to bowling, one of the oldest games in the world. The sport appeals to people of all
ages and skill levels. Whether you are a beginner or have some experience, the materials in the
chapter, combined with your experiences at the bowling center, will help you learn the skills,
strategies, and rules of the game. These newly acquired skills will allow you to quickly begin to
enjoy the social, recreational, psychological, and health-related benefits of this seemingly simple
game. Bowling is more than a game of power; it is also a game of timing, balance, and control. If
you use the materials in this book and follow instructions, you will be a better bowler at the end of
this course. Whether you play occasionally or regularly in a league, you can bowl at a level to
meet your individual needs and abilities for physical activity for the rest of your life.

History
More than 100 million people in more than 90 countries bowl, with approximately 70 million
bowlers in the United States alone. It has been the game of kings and presidents, and it may go
back thousands of years. In the 1930s, British anthropologist Sir Flinders Petrie found objects in a
child's grave in Egypt dated to 3200 BC that may have been used for a primitive form of the game.
Other historians identify the origin of bowling in a fourth century religious activity in Germany
called kegeling, in which parishioners knocked down pins with a stone to indicate that they were
adhering to church rules.
As time passed, bowling became a recreational pastime rather than a religious ceremony. Martin
Luther liked the game so much that he created a bowling lane for his family and even created
rules for the game. His version of the game used only nine pins arranged in a diamond shape
with a kingpin in the middle. The object of the game was to knock down the pins without knocking
down the kingpin. Many variations of bowling spread across Europe; skittles, a precursor to
modern bowling, was played in Britain in the fourteenth century. English, Dutch, and German
settlers all brought their own versions of the game to the New World.

Equipment
The equipment you need will depend on whether you are bowling in a standard bowling facility or
a more makeshift setting. Some classes may use a basketball court with an alley marked with
tape and using plastic pins and balls. Regardless of the setting, you will use the same bowling
techniques, strategies, and scoring to play. Full-fledged facilities will be able to keep track of your
score, whereas makeshift bowling alleys will require you to keep track of your own score. For this
class, you will learn how to keep track of score regardless of your type of alley, but if you are
bowling on a makeshift court you must have a score sheet. When you go to a bowling center,
everything will be made available for you to rent and use. The following sections will identify
specifics about the equipment.

CLOTHING
You can bowl in almost any type of clothing. The most important part is to make sure the clothing
allows you flexibility at the hips and knees and in the shoulders; you must be able to swing your
arms and bend at the hips, knees, and ankles. You must wear socks to go with your bowling
shoes, and pants should not touch the ground, creating a potential slipping hazard.

BOWLING BALLS
Bowling equipment starts with the bowling ball (Figure 20.3). When bowling got its start, the balls
were made of stone, then wood, then hard rubber. Today most are made of a rugged
polyurethane or polyester resin that provides durability and control. The minimum hardness of a
bowling ball as measured by a durometer is 72. No foreign object may be inserted inside the ball.
The ball may have three to five finger holes; three holes is the most popular style. These holes
may be drilled for different sizes, widths, and depths to accommodate the user's needs. All balls
are 27 inches around and may weigh from 6 to 16 pounds. A heavier ball will have less deflection
when it contacts the pin, which will result in better pin coverage. The weight of the ball should not
sacrifice speed or control. See Tips Box 20.1 for tips on finding a house ball.

Equipment
The equipment you need will depend on whether you are bowling in a standard bowling facility or
a more makeshift setting. Some classes may use a basketball court with an alley marked with
tape and using plastic pins and balls. Regardless of the setting, you will use the same bowling
techniques, strategies, and scoring to play. Full-fledged facilities will be able to keep track of your
score, whereas makeshift bowling alleys will require you to keep track of your own score. For this
class, you will learn how to keep track of score regardless of your type of alley, but if you are
bowling on a makeshift court you must have a score sheet. When you go to a bowling center,
everything will be made available for you to rent and use. The following sections will identify
specifics about the equipment.
The style of ball affects the grip. Three types of grips that are commonly introduced are the
conventional, semi-fingertip, and fingertip grips. Regardless of the type of grip that you will use,
be sure to insert your fingers first and then your thumb (Figure20.4). With the conventional grip,
the holes are deep enough for the fingers and thumb to enter up to the second knuckle of the
hand (Figure20.5A). The conventional grip is the most commonly used with the house ball at a
bowling alley and provides the most security for a beginner's fingers.

The next set of grips is the fingertip style grips. The depth of the fingers in the fingertip grips differ.
For the semi-fingertip grip the holes are only deep enough for fingers to fit into midway between
the second and first knuckle. But, for the fingertip grip (Figure 20.5B) the holes allow for fingers to
go only to the first knuckle. Note that most likely you will not be using a semi-fingertip grip. This
grip is outdated and conventional drilling of bowling balls has eliminated the drilling required for

the semi-fingertip grip. The advantage of the fingertip grip is that they allow for more consistent
delivery as you will be able to control the ball better. It is true that this advantage comes at the
price of time. It will be harder to learn the fingertip grip. This grip also requires strong and
conditioned fingers.
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BOWLING PINS
Heavy, fast-moving bowling balls continually slam into the pins, requiring the pins to be made of a
durable substance (Figure 20.6). For many years, bowling pins have been made of a hard rock
maple with a thin, plastic coating applied to the outer cover. Today, many of these pins are being
replaced with synthetic pins that are more durable. Each is 15 inches high and 15 inches around
at the belly of the pin. They may be no lighter than 3 pounds 6 ounces and no heavier than 3
pounds 10 ounces. All pins at a given establishment must have a uniform weight. The design of
the pin will allow it to tip over at 10 degrees change of an upright position.
The next set of grips is the fingertip style grips. The depth of the fingers in the fingertip grips differ.
For the semi-fingertip grip the holes are only deep enough for fingers to fit into midway between
the second and first knuckle. But, for the fingertip grip (Figure 20.5B) the holes allow for fingers to
go only to the first knuckle. Note that most likely you will not be using a semi-fingertip grip. This
grip is outdated and conventional drilling of bowling balls has eliminated the drilling required for
the semi-fingertip grip. The advantage of the fingertip grip is that they allow for more consistent
delivery as you will be able to control the ball better. It is true that this advantage comes at the
price of time. It will be harder to learn the fingertip grip. This grip also requires strong and
conditioned fingers.
Regulation bowling pins are 15 inches tall.
Each lane has 10 pins separated by 12 inches from all adjacent pins, making the arrangement a
36-inch equilateral triangle (Figure 20.7). The head pin is number 1, and all other rows are
counted from left to right. The pins are arranged so that a ball cannot pass between two pins
without hitting one or both pins. Pin machines replace the pins in the same position after each
frame.

BOWLING SHOES
After the ball, the second-most important piece of equipment to consider is your shoes. As a
beginner, you will most likely rent your shoes (Figure 20.8); if you get serious about the sport,
however, you will want to purchase your own for the simple reason that you will save money over
time with a one-time purchase compared with frequently renting shoes. In general, bowling shoes
are designed to provide some traction, an element of slide when you release the ball, and a
surface that will not mark the lanes.
Bowling shoes provide appropriate amounts of traction and slide and don't damage or mark the
lanes.

When you rent shoes, the left and right shoe are made the same to accommodate the left-handed
and right-handed bowler. When you purchase your own professional bowling shoes, you will find
that they have different type of soles, the sliding sole and the braking sole (Figure 20.9). The
braking sole will have more traction; hence, it will provide a brake action. The sliding sole will
allow you to slide. If you are a right-handed bowler, you will want your left foot to be the slide shoe
and your right foot to have the brake sole. When you learn about the approach steps later in this
chapter, you will come to understand the reason for the differences in soles.

ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT
Proper bowling technique requires a strong wrist and fingers as well as dry hands. Bowling
gloves, wrist straps, rosin bags, and a good bowling towel together are additional pieces of
equipment that can help you be a better bowler (Figure 20.10). Wrist straps and gloves
complement each other and make it easier to bowl. There are various types of gloves, including
fingerless, one finger, and two finger; their main function is to help stabilize the wrist. If you use
different gloves, you will notice a difference in how they feel. Some bowlers prefer to feel the ball
with skin contact, whereas others prefer to avoid the potential blisters that come with long- term
bowling and thus use gloves. Mainly, bowling gloves provide the support needed for injury
prevention as well as greater control of the bowling ball. For advanced players using spin, gloves
offer the extra grip and control needed to put spin on the bowling ball properly, and maintain
consistent form from one game to the next.

Additional equipment: bowling glove, wrist strap, rosin bag, and a bowling towel.
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Concerning wrist straps, beginners may find that wrist supports help them guide their throw and
this helps develop proper form. Many new bowlers take a while to build the proper strength in their
wrists to allow them to bowl for extended periods of time without pain or injury; the wrist straps
make the initial bowling experience go smoother.
Finally, a rosin bag and towel will assist you in keeping your hands dry, which also helps prevent
blisters if you are not wearing a glove. Rosin is a powder that comes in a small-sized bag. Your
hands might get clammy because you are simply nervous or it might be hot at the bowling facility.
To keep your bowling ball clean and dry for best performance, bowling towels are used. For all of
the additional equipment discussed in this section, there are a number of different manufacturers
for each product. Be sure to ask for some help from a bowling professional to get what you need
for your game.

LOCKERS AND BOWLING BAGS

Transporting and storing equipment should be a serious consideration for the serious bowler.
Many bowlers will invest in a bag to store and transport their ball, shoes, and other related
equipment. Today, bags have wheels and are easy to carry back and forth from car to bowling
alley. If you bowl at a variety of bowling centers, a bag is an essential piece of equipment. You
would not want a ball and shoes moving around inside your car. The ball is likely to become

damaged, not to mention what it could do to you and your car in the event of a sudden stop or an
accident. Lockers can be an inexpensive alternative to bowling bags, especially if you bowl at only
one center (Figure 20.11). Discuss price and value with the manager of your chosen bowling
center.

Activity Space: The Bowling Lane

At first, lanes may seem confusing with all the numbers, arrows, dots, narrow boards, and lines. A
complete understanding of all of these is essential to your success in bowling. Take the time to
identify and understand each of the following lane areas (Figure 20.12).

APPROACH AREA
This is the area just behind the foul line. It is where you will begin your specific steps, swing the
ball, and deliver it. Like the rest of the lane, it is constructed of numerous small laminated wooden
boards. There are 39 of these boards; each board is about 1 inch wide and about 4 inches thick.
In this area you will find three rows of dots called the locator dots that run parallel to the foul line.
The first row of dots closest to the foul line is about 2 to 3 inches back. The next row is 12 feet
back. The third is 15 feet back. Each row has seven dots that are evenly spaced with four boards
between each dot; the center dot is placed on the 20th board. The purpose of the dots is to give
you a consistent starting point for each specific shot.

LANE
The area between the foul line and the pins is referred to as the lane. It also is 39 boards wide,
but there is usually a filler board on the left edge. The length from the foul line to the head pin is
60 feet, and the width is approximately 42 inches. The distance from the foul line to the last row of
pins is 63 feet. Traditionally, the first 12 or so feet of the lane, starting near the foul line and
including where the player stands, was constructed of extremely durable maple wood. The heavy
maple was also used under the pins for the pin deck. In the past, the rest of the lane was
constructed of softer pine wood, allowing for better ball traction. Today, lanes are most commonly
constructed from a synthetic woodlike surface. If you are bowling on real maple wood lanes, you
are at very old bowling center!
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Fifteen feet past the foul line are four rows of arrows called target arrows. The seven target
arrows are arranged in an inverted V formation and are on the same boards as the two rows of
seven dots. They are designed to help bowlers aim at their target pina process called spot
bowling that you will learn later. Right-handers will have numbers counting right to left (4, 3, 2, 1),
and left-handers will have numbers counting left to right (1, 2, 3, 4). The board closest to the
outside, number 1, is on the fifth board; the number 2 board is on the 10th board; the number 3
board is on the 15th board; and the number 4 is on the 20th, which is the very center of the lane.
Seven feet in front of the foul line is a straight row of spots that are not in line with the target
arrows. These spots are called dots and are another way that can be used to aim the bowling ball.

They are also used for those with visual impairments who may not be able to see the pins or
target arrows clearly.

PIN DECK
This is the area where the pins are set. It is made of a very durable surface. The area is about 36
inches deep and 42 inches wide with durable sidewalls called kickbacks. Kickbacks keep the pins
in a specific area and also help with the pin action.

PIT AREA
The area located directly behind the pin deck is the pit area. Its function is to catch the pins and
get them back to the machine. The pit is 4 to 5 inches below the surface of the pin deck and
extends to the back of the pit where a cushion keeps pins from bouncing back on the lane. From
here the balls are returned, and a moving belt sends the pins to the pinsetter.

Bowling

approach The area behind the foul line where the bowler steps and swings and delivers
the ball.

backup A ball that curves left to right for a right-handed bowler and right to left for a lefthanded bowler.

channels Tracks on either side of the lane that capture a ball that rolls off a lane; also
referred to as gutters.

dead ball A badly rolled ball that goes off course; the delivery does not count and the
correct pins must be respotted.

dead wood Pins that have been knocked down but not cleared from the lane.

double Two strikes in a row; worth 20 points plus the score of the next ball.

foul Any part of the bowler's person or clothing touches or goes beyond the foul line that
separates the approach area from the lane; if a bowler fouls, no points are awarded for that
roll.

foul line The line at the end of the approach area that marks the beginning of the lane; if
a player crosses this line, a foul results.

frame One-tenth of a game; also the box on the score sheet in which the score is
recorded.

head pin The number 1 pin, which is the pin closest to the bowler.
hook A ball that breaks to the left for a right-handed bowler or to the right for a lefthanded bowler.
lane The area between the foul line and the pins; also called the alley.

open frame When a player fails to knock down all 10 pins with two balls in the same
frame (no spare or strike).

pocket The best location for the ball to make initial contact with the pins for a strike; for a
right-handed bowler, usually between pins 1 and 3; and for a left-handed bowler, usually
between pins 1 and 2.

spare Knocking down all the pins with two balls in one frame; the score is 10 points plus
the points from the next ball.

split A setup of pins standing after the first ball, in which the head pin is down and at
least one pin is down between two or more standing pins.

spot bowling Using the target arrows and/or locator dots as aiming points.

strike Knocking down all 10 pins on the first ball; the score is 10 points plus the point
totals of the next two balls.

target arrows Triangular-shaped aiming points arranged in an inverted V formation;

located 15 feet past the foul line on the same boards as the two rows of seven dots.

triple Three strikes in a row, also known as a turkey; counts as 30 for the first strike.

SAFETY AND INJURY PREVENTION

Whether you are a beginner or an experienced player, you should always consider safety when
participating in bowling. Although bowling is not a contact sport, there are some risks. Heaving a
heavy ball at a target is an awkward movement. Bowling is one of the few sports that people
participate in while also engaging in harmful activities that reduce motor function, including
drinking and smoking. Bowling is a very social event, but do not let socializing with friends take
over making safe choices. For safety, avoid distractions and actions that affect your physical
functioning. When it is your turn to bowl, be aware of your surroundings and focus on your
actions.

Bowling-Related Injuries

The most common acute injuries in bowling occur either during a fall or jamming a finger in a ball.
Being aware of your surroundings and focusing on your actions will help reduce chances of falls.
Bowling isn't particularly stressful on the body, but soreness can occur among beginners as they
use unfamiliar muscles. Overuse injuries can also occur, with shoulder and wrist injuries most
common. Performing a proper warm-up and allowing your body to recover between workouts
should reduce the incidence of muscle strains and overuse injuries from all sports, including
bowling.

General Safety Considerations

Here are several strategies to follow to avoid injury. As unimportant or trivial as these might seem,
you could become seriously injured if you do not fully understand the hazards associated with
bowling.
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SHOES AND APPROACH AREA

Keep your bowling shoes dry at all times. You can aid in this by wearing shoe covers, which are
usually available, anytime you leave the vicinity, including any restroom breaks. Shoes are
designed to slide; moisture will prevent the slide and cause instant traction or sudden stops,
which can result in falls. Do not wear bowling shoes outside. If your shoes get wet, change them!
(Do not apply baby powder to the shoes; it is prohibited.) Last, be sure to keep the approach area
dry. If liquid is spilled, dry the approach area immediately and do not resume play until it is dry.
Never take any food or drink in the scoring area. Leave umbrellas and raincoats by the door. All
drink spills should be cleaned immediately. Alert the bowling center staff of any spills.

PICKING UP THE BALL

Never put your fingers in the ball to pick it up from the ball ejection. Place your hands on both
sides of the ball, out of the way of the balls returning from previous players. To prevent dropping
the ball on your foot or someone else's, cradle it in your nondominant arm while keeping the
dominant arm relaxed.

PLACING OF PERSONAL ITEMS AND EQUIPMENT

Keep your street shoes under the seats. And be sure to not stack bowling balls in the lockers.
This is a hazard because at least oneif not bothbowling balls will roll out and could smash
your foot of that of someone standing close by.

FOUL LINE HAZARD

The area beyond the foul line is very slick and will likely cause you to fall. Never enter this area.
Do not try to pick up or retrieve items such as coins, earrings, or anything else, from beyond the
foul line that you may have dropped. Have a staff member at the bowling alley do this for you.

Warming-Up
Including a well-designed warm-up is equally important to both novice and advanced bowlers.
The activity works all parts of the body, so a good warm-up is essential for avoiding injury to your
muscles, tendons, and ligaments. Increased flexibility can also improve your range of motion and
overall movement efficiency.
As described in Chapter 2, the American College of Sports Medicine (ACSM) recommends a
warm-up phase of at least 510 minutes of light- to moderate-intensity aerobic and muscular
endurance activity. Your warm-up can include the three types of activities described in this
section: general cardiovascular endurance activities, dynamic stretches that work your muscles
and joints, and activity-specific drills or rehearsal moves. As long as you choose light- to
moderate-intensity dynamic movements, you can combine these different types of activities into
an appropriate warm-up of at least 510 total minutes.

CARDIOVASCULAR WARM-UP
Begin your warm-up with general cardiovascular activities that gradually elevate heart and
breathing rates and body temperature as well as increase blood flow to working muscles. Start at
a low intensity and then increase to a moderate intensity; the cardio warm-up is not intended to
tire or exhaust you. Examples of activities for a general cardiovascular warm-up include brisk
walking, slow jogging, jumping rope, and a variety of calisthenics.

MUSCULOSKELETAL WARM-UP
The musculoskeletal warm-up specifically targets your muscles and joints. Several minutes of
controlled dynamic stretches will continue your warm-up as well as improve your movement
efficiency for bowling. Begin slowly and progress to more active movements that involve greater
muscle effort and range of motion. As part of your warm-up, these moderate-intensity, dynamic
moves can help prepare your body for activity and help prevent muscle and joint injuries. Choose
dynamic stretches of your legs, back, and shoulders from the Flexibility and Conditioning Toolbox
in the final section of Connect Get Active. For bowling, you might consider performing walking
lunges, side lunges, knee hugs, shoulder shrugs, and arm swings.
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ACTIVITY-SPECIFIC WARM-UP
The warm-ups we've discussed so far are fairly general and can be applied to many different
sports. The third part of a well-rounded warm-up is activity specificso time to prepare the body
to bowl! Unfortunately, bowling usually costs money for every single game, so a practice bowl
counts toward the game. If spending the money for a practice game is worth it or your alley does
not charge, fully take advantage of practice bowls. Most likely you will not have these benefits, so
you must improvise. The following can all be completed without bowling a frame and can be used
for your activity-specific warm-up.

Practice your approach slowly on carpet.

Practice your approach at the foul line while holding the bowling ball without release.

Remember: The ACSM recommends that your complete warm-up last at least 510 minutes.

Cooling-Down
You should cool down at the end of any moderate to vigorous activity. A proper cool-down
includes walking around to catch your breath, gradually slowing down your heart rate, and
stretching for all of the major muscle groups. Depending on the pace of your bowling session, you
may exercise at a low to moderate intensity; if needed, you should cool down. As described
in Chapter 2, it is best to stretch while your muscles are warm; performing stretches immediately
following cool-down is a good option. Thus, taking a few minutes to stretch is a good idea after
bowling as you have most likely used muscles in a different manner. As with warming up, you
might feel self-conscious at a bowling alley cooling down, especially in a facility where the person
next to you is eating pizza. But give it a try!

GAME PLAY
Now that you've learned the activities necessary to preparing for a great game of bowling, it's time
to talk about the game itself. In this section you will learn everything you need to know about what
to expect during a game, whether you are watching or participating.

A Typical Game
The game of bowling consists of 10 frames. During every frame except the 10th, the bowler gets
a maximum of two balls to roll with the aim of knocking down all 10 of the pins. In the tenth frame,
an extra frame is possible. If you are an amazing bowler and reach a perfect game, which means
you knock down all the balls on the first attempt in each frame and both extra balls in the 10th
frame, your score is 300: a perfect game. There are score sheets designed to help you keep
track of the results of each shot. It is divided into 10 frames and has a pair of small boxes in the
top right-hand corner. The following information about rules and scoring will help you understand
the specifics of a game as well as how to keep score.

Rules
The following is a list of rules that have made bowling the popular sport it is today. If you are
bowling in a bowling facility, the actual alley machinery should prevent most of these fouls from
happening.
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DEAD PINS
Dead wood refers to bowling pins that have been knocked down but not cleared from the lane.
Never bowl in this situation. When any of the following occurs, the pin fall is not scored, but the
attempt counts:

A ball rebounds from the pin cushion.

A human pinsetter touches the pin.

A mechanical pinsetter touches the pin; if the machine knocks down a pin, it must be
respotted to where it originally stood before the first ball was rolled.
The bowler commits a foul.
The ball is rolled with dead wood on the lane or in the channels or the gutter and the ball
contacts these before coming back into play.

LIVE PINS
If a pin falls and then stands back up without any mechanical help, it counts as if standing (even
though this may not seem fair).

DEAD BALL
When a dead ball is called, the delivery does not count and the correct pins must be respotted.
The player is allowed to rebowl that shot. A ball is declared dead if any of the following occurs:

After the ball is rolled, attention is immediately called to the fact that one or more pins
were missing from the setup.

A human pinsetter interferes with any standing pins before the ball reaches the pins or
removes or moves any downed pin before it stops rolling.

A player bowls on the wrong lane or out of turn, or one player from each team bowls on
the wrong lane.

A pinsetter, another player, spectator, or moving object interferes with the player as the
ball is being rolled and before the release has occurred; in such cases the player has the
option to accept the pin fall or declare a dead ball.
Any pin is moved after the ball is rolled and before the ball reaches the pins.
A delivered ball comes in contact with a foreign object such as a piece of trash, which
would be rare.

FOULS
A foul is declared when any part of the bowler's person or clothing touches beyond the foul line
between the approach and the playing surface. This line is a plane that goes from the floor to
ceiling and from wall to wall. Once the ball is delivered, if this line is crossed, whether or not the
alarm sounds, this is considered a foul. If the foul occurs on the first ball, then the bowler reracks
the pins and shoots for a spare with zero points on the first shot. If it occurs on the second ball, it
counts as 0 points; both frames are marked with an F. Deliberate fouling results in game forfeit; an
example of a deliberate foul is when a player deliberately steps on the foul line when he or she
knows the first ball is going to result in a split. Previously, stepping on the line would result in it
being scored as a gutter ball. The next shot would have a chance to spare. Today, league play
rules do not allow deliberate fouling; this results in a game forfeit.

Scoring
Bowling uses a relatively complex system to determine scores, but that also makes the games
more fun. Even if you are playing in an alley with a computerized scoring system that determines
your score automatically, or if you are using a program or app to calculate scores, you should still
become familiar with how scores are calculated in bowling.

SCORING TERMS
Here are basic terms you need to know in order to understand scoring for bowling.
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Aframeisonetenthofagame.Yourolltwoballsineachframe
unlessyourollastrikewithyourfirstball.Ifyourollastrikeor
spareinthetenthframe,yourollathirdball.

Astrikeoccurswhenyouknockdownall10pinsonthefirstball;
thiscountsas10points.Inaddition,youwaitandaddthenexttwo
shotstothatframeforapossible30pointsifyougetthree

consecutivestrikes.
Adoubleoccurswhenyougettwostrikesbacktobackorina
row;thiscountsas20pointsplusthenextball.

Atripleorturkeyoccurswhenyougetthreestrikesinarow;this
countsas30forthefirststrike.Thisnamecamefromanaward
giventothefirstpersontogetthreestrikesinarow.Toscorethe
maximum300,abowlermustget12strikesinsuccession.
Aspareoccurswhenyouknockdownallthepinsleftstanding
afteryourolledthefirstball;thesparecountsas10pins(points)
itself.Inaddition,youwaitandaddthenextshotorballcountto
that10.
Anopenormissoccurswhenaplayerfailstoknockdownall10
pinsintwoballsinthesameframe(nospareorstrike).

Asplitisasetupofpinsstandingafterthefirstball,providedthe
headpinisdownandatleastonepinisdownbetweentwoormore
standingpins(i.e.,79or310);andatleastonepinisdown
immediatelyaheadoftwoormorestandingpins(i.e.,56).Asplit
afterthefirstballisnotedwithacirclednumber;withthesecond
ball,therecouldbeaspare,amiss,oranumberofpinsknocked
down.
Afoul(describedinthesectiononrules)isnotedwithanF.

First Frame: You knock down five pins with your first ball. Record a 5 in the first small
box. The next shot, you knock down three pins, and you record a 3 in the other small box.
You add both scores (8), and you record a large number 8 in the rest of the box.

Second Frame: Your first ball is a strike. Place a large (X) in the first large box. Before
you can mark your score, you will need to roll two more balls in the next frame. You will not
roll a second ball for this frame because there are no other pins.

Third Frame: Your first ball is an eight; record an 8 in the first small box. Your second ball
hits one of the two remaining pins; record a 1 in the second small box. Now you will need to
first obtain the score for the second frame. This is done by adding the 8 and 1 of the third
frame, plus the 10 you got in the second frame (strike), which is 19, plus the 8 you had in the

first frame, which now equals 27 in the second frame. Now add the 9 from the third frame,
and you have a score of 36 in the third frame.

Fourth Frame: You knock down nine pins with your first ball. Record a 9 in the first small
box. The second shot knocks down the last ball, which is scored as a spare. In the second
small box, put a diagonal line (/) from top-right to bottom-left corner. You are not able to
record your score until you get the first ball from the fifth frame.
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Fifth Frame: You knock down nine pins with your first ball. Record a 9 in the first small
box. The second shot misses the last pin. You will record a dash () in the second small box.
Now add the 9 you got on the first ball of the fifth frame with the 10 you get from the spare in
the fourth frame, which equals 19, plus the 36 you acquired in the third frame, which now
equals 55 in the fourth frame. That 55 plus the 9 you got in the fifth frame equals a total of
64 in the fifth frame.

Sixth Frame: You knock down five pins with your first ball. Record a 5 in the first small
box. The second shot knocked down two pins. Record a 2 in the second small box. Add the
64 from the fifth frame to the 7 of the sixth, and the total is 71.

Seventh Frame: You knock down nine pins with your first ball. Record a 9 in the first
small box. The second shot misses the last pin. Record a dash () in the second small box.
Add the 71 from the sixth frame to the 9 of the seventh, and the total is 80.

Eighth Frame: You stepped over the foul line on the first ball and received no points. The
letter (F) is placed in the first small box. The second shot knocks down eight pins. Record an
8 in the second small box. Add the 80 from the seventh frame to the eight pins from the
eighth frame, and the total is 88.

Ninth Frame: You make a strike! Now you must wait for the next two balls before
determining your score for the ninth frame.

Tenth Frame: Your first ball is a strike. Continue with the second ball, which is an 8. You
may now determine the score for the ninth frame. You add the 10 for the strike in the tenth
frame to the next ball, which is an 8 for a total of 18 to the 10 you got for the strike in the
ninth frame, totaling 28 points. Your score in the eighth frame was 88; add that to the 28, and
you have a score of 116 for the ninth frame. Since your first ball in the tenth frame was a
strike, you must get two more balls. You have already knocked down eight pins with the first
additional shot. Your last shot is a spare knocking down the last two pins for a total of 10
pins. You get 10 points for the strike and another 10 points for knocking down all 10 pins, for
a total of 20 points, which is added to the 116 you had in the ninth frame for a game total of
136 points.

Etiquette

Whether you are a regular league player or an occasional bowler, basic rules of etiquette should
be considered at all times. Your understanding and responsible practice of these basic rules will
ensure courteous and enjoyable play. Generally, the first person to the approach area bowls first.
In the case of a tie, the person to the right will go first, unless the person on the left is shooting a
spare. Once you have determined who will bowl first, the other bowler should move off the
approach area while someone is bowling. This will prevent any form of distraction to the bowler.
The bowler has the responsibility to present his or her stance and bowl with little delay. Once you
have rolled your ball, stay put to watch how your bowl did. Do not walk backward while watching
your ball hit the pins because you may drift into another approach area and interfere with other
bowlers.
The primary reason for alternating lanes is to be fair and honest in direct competition. Lanes have
variations and some have advantages and disadvantages; if you rotate lanes, then everyone will
have bowled under the same conditions. When the last bowler from lane A finishes, the first
bowler from lane B will begin to bowl on lane A. Lane A bowlers will now bowl on lane B. The
electronic system will automatically identify the next appropriate bowler. However, if you are
scoring manually, you will have to pay close attention to the correct rotation. When the game
ends, you will begin the next game on the same lane in which you finished the previous game. In
league play, this will allow you to be back on the original starting lane by the time you get to the
third game. If a bowler accidentally bowls on the wrong lane and no one else follows this person,
you may erase the frame and rebowl it with a full rack in the correct lane. If, however, the whole
team bowled on the incorrect lane, then you keep the score and go on.
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Last, avoid inappropriate emotional displays such as yelling, cussing, kicking, hitting, or
slamming. These actions are distracting to everyone involved or within hearing distance. These
actions will likely be addressed by management and may result in removal. Also with emotions,
team spirit can be a valuable part of the bowling experience, but it must be done appropriately.
Avoid loud cheering, jeering comments toward anyone, or any other inconsiderate actions.

FUNDAMENTALS
Developing a command of the following fundamentals will improve your enjoyment of bowling.
Each fundamental will require learning a set of specific techniques, which will enable you to
obtain the desired results. The following descriptions will allow you to understand how and when
to execute the basic shots.

Four-Step Approach for the Right-Handed Bowler

There are a variety of approach methods, but the four-step method is the most popular and the
best suited for beginners. The purpose of the approach is to create a rhythmic momentum for
delivery of the ball. By stepping and correctly swinging the ball, you are more likely to deliver an
accurate ball. In the early stages of practicing the mechanics, remember that speed is not the
most important aspect. Keep movements at a moderate pace and be consistent; in no time you
will have an approach that feels right.

FINDING YOUR STARTING POINT

To find the place to start, you need to stand at the foul line facing away from the pins (Figure
20.15). Take three regular walking steps and then for the fourth step take a longer step to account
for the slide step, which will be step four. It doesn't really matter with which foot you take your first
step as you are finding the best distance for yourself away from the foul line. Now turn around.
Place your left foot in line or just off to the side of the center dot. Now you have your starting
point. Take note of this spot for future reference; it can be adjusted later as your technique
changes and improves.

Your left foot should be one to two boards to the left of the center dot with your feet
slightly apart with toes of the right foot even with the arch of the left foot.

A bit more of your weight should be on left foot since the first step will be with the right
foot.
Your knees should be bent toward the toes in a ready-for-movement stance.

Your body should have a balanced, slightly forward lean throughout the entire approach
and delivery with your back straight with your right shoulder very slightly dipped.

Your right arm that is holding your bowling ball should be close to your right side at a
comfortable height with elbow bent and resting against your side. Your left arm should be
supporting the ball.

Slow bowlers will hold the ball above the waist, medium speed at the waist, and faster
Hold the ball as if you were holding a suitcase or giving a handshake just before releasing
the ball down the lane.
Your thumb should face your leg at 10 o'clock. Fingers should be at 4 o'clock.

Maintain a straight and firm wrist through the entire delivery. Advanced bowlers may try
other wrist styles.
bowlers below the waist (Figure 20.17).

Step 1

Begin with a small step forward with the right foot. At the same time, push the ball out
slightly in front of the right foot waist high. This is called the push away. The motion will start
your body moving forward.

Step 2

Continue with a small step forward with the left foot. At the same time, swing the ball
downward and back to the lowest point just below the right knee.
Extend the left arm out in front of body for balance.

Step 3

Continue with a longer step for step 3 with the right foot. This will be your power step. At
the same time, continue to arc the ball backward and up to the highest point even with your
shoulders.

Step 4

Continue with a longer step, with the left foot resulting in a slide toward the foul line. At
the same time, begin to arc the ball downward and forward.

Keep your eyes focused on the target.

Point the left foot toward the target.

As the ball reaches the lowest point, bend the left leg so that you can release the ball
close to the floor. At the same time, swing the right leg behind the left leg for balance.
Keep the arm and wrist firm at release.
Continue to swing the arm upward after the ball has been released. This is called the
follow-through.

RELEASE
For the release, your thumb will come out of the ball first just after step 4. As the fingers release
smoothly from the ball, be sure to continue the arm swing all the way up and over the shoulders.
Be sure to keep the body down until the follow-through is completed.

Four-Step Approach for the Left-Handed Bowler

The introductory materials for the four-step approach as found above (Four-Step Approach for the
Right-Handed Bowler) are identical. The information to follow is specific to the left-handed bowler.
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FOUR-STEP STARTING POINT

To find the place to start, you need to stand at the foul line facing away from the pins (Figure
20.20). Take three regular walking steps; then for the fourth step take a longer step to account for

the slide step which will be step four. It doesn't really matter with which foot you take your first
step as you are finding the best distance for yourself away from the foul line. Now turn around.
Place your right foot in line or just off to the side of the center dot. Now you have your starting
point. Take note of this spot for future reference; it can be adjusted later as your technique
changes and improves.
Stance for the left-handed bowler: front (A), side (B), and rear (C) views.

Your right foot should be one to two boards to the right of the center dot with your feet
slightly apart with toes of the left foot even with the arch of the right foot.

A bit more of your weight should be on the right foot since the first step will be with your
left foot.
Your knees should be bent toward the toes in a ready-for-movement stance.

Your body should have a balanced, slightly forward lean throughout the entire approach
and delivery with your back straight with your left shoulder very slightly dipped.
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The left arm that is holding your bowling ball should be close to your left side at a
comfortable height with the elbow bent and resting against your side. Your right arm should
be supporting the ball.

Slow bowlers will hold the ball above the waist, medium speed at the waist, and faster
bowlers below the waist (Figure 20.22).

Hold the ball as if you were holding a suitcase or giving a handshake just before releasing
the ball down the lane.

Your thumb should face your leg at 2 o'clock. Fingers should be at 8 o'clock.

Maintain a straight firm wrist through the entire delivery; advanced bowlers may try other
wrist styles.

Step 1

Begin with a step forward with the left foot. At the same time, push the ball out slightly in
front of the left foot waist high. This is called the push away. The motion will start your body
moving forward.

Step 2

Continue with a step forward with the right foot. At the same time, swing the ball
downward and back to the lowest point just below the left knee.
Extend the right arm out in front of the body for balance.

Step 3

Continue with a slightly longer step with the left foot. This will be your power step. At the
same time, continue to arc the ball backward and up to the highest point even with your
shoulders.

Step 4

Continue with a step with your right foot resulting in a slide toward the foul line. At the
same time, begin to arc the ball downward and forward.

Keep your eyes focused on the target.

Point the right foot toward the target.

As the ball reaches the lowest point, bend the right leg so that you can release the ball
close to the floor. At the same time, swing the left leg behind the right leg for balance.
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Keep the arm and wrist firm at release.

Continue to swing arm upward after the ball has been released. This is called followthrough.

RELEASE
The release information is identical to that of the right-handed bowler, with the obvious exception
of using your left hand.

Principles of Moving the Bowling Ball

Once you have learned how to consistently produce a four-step approach, you are ready to learn
how to take advantage of the ball movement principles that can take your game to a higher level.
Understanding how these principles work can help you improve your strengths as well as correct
your weaknesses.

SPEED
The speed of your ball plays a major roll in the accuracy of your shot. Too much speed and the
ball may not hook at the appropriate time. Too little speed and the ball may hook too soon or not

have enough force to knock the intended balls down. Here are five strategies to help you correct
too little speed:

1. Puttheballintotheswingsoonertocreateafasterapproachtempo.

2. Pushtheballfurtherawaytocreatealongerarc.

3. Holdtheballhigherinthestance.

4. Tryusingalighterball.

5. Considerusingafivestepapproachtocreatemoremomentum.

Conversely, here are five strategies to help you correct too much speed:

1. Starttheballlowerinyourstancetocreatelessresistanceoftheswing.

2. Shortenthepushaway.

3. Flexyourkneesmoreduringtheapproach.

4. Reducetheeffortputintotheswing.

5. Tryusingaheavierball,ifpossible.

SPIN
Spin is created by a number of factors, including the placement and positioning of your hand and
the finger and wrist rotation at the point of release. As you advance in your skills, you will want to
develop your hook shot. This shot allows you to hit the pocket properly and produce higher
scores. The pocket is the best location for the ball to make initial contact with the pins in order to
produce a strikedepending on the type of delivery and whether you are a right-handed bowler
or a left-handed bowler, this is between pins 1 and 2 or between pins 1 and 3.

Delivery
Differing hand positions at release help create different ball paths (Figure 20.25). The hook ball
tends to knock down more pins than the straight ball, but some beginners find the straight ball
easier at first. Some people naturally throw a backup ball.

STRAIGHT BALL
The straight ball shot moves in a forward and relatively straight-line path, hence the name. A
straight ball will push its way through pins. A straight ball is the most common bowl for beginners
because it is the easiest one to practice and learn. The problem with the straight ball is its straight
forward path results in a reduced chance for a strike as compared to a hook ball. If you are using
a straight-ball shot on the first bowl of a frame you should aim to the slight right or slight left of the
number 1 pin. This may create enough mixing and spinning action among the pins that the ball
does hit to force a strike.
A straight-ball shot is more frequently used for a spare when there is a pin or a group of pins
close to each other. If you are a beginner who is having a hard time getting the bowling ball to
stay on the lane and keeps getting gutter shots, learning the straight-ball shot is an excellent idea.
The technique for the straight shot is as follows for both right- and left-handed bowlers (Figure
20.27):

Keep the wrist bent.

Keep thumb at 12 o'clock.

Keep fingers loose and relaxed.

Release the thumb and fingers at the same time.

Use half follow-through, with your hand below your waist at the point of release.

THE BACKUP BALL

The backup ball is a reverse hook in which the ball hooks from left to right due to the spin at the
release for the right-handed bowler (Figure 20.28) and right to left for the left-handed bowler
(Figure 20.29). Here are the key points to learn how to roll a backup ball.
Backup ball for the left-handed bowler: broken wrist (A) and finish (B) positions.

Start with a broken wrist with your wrist bent slightly back, fingers toward your forearm,
rather than straight or cupped forward.

Spin the thumb from 1 o'clock to 3 o'clock at release, which is a clockwise rotation for the
right-handed bowler. The left-handed bowler will spin in a counterclockwise rotation from 11
o'clock to 9 o'clock.
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Do a strong follow-through.

Start your approach on the left side of the lane and use the first arrow on the left to aim
for the 1-2 pocket.

FUNDAMENTALS IN ACTION

Once you have the fundamentals of the four-step approach and different ways to move
the ball in your bowling repertoire, it is time to get them into action to improve your
scoring. Spot bowling and strike and spare strategies are ways in which you can steadily
improve your bowling performance.

Spot Bowling

If you were going to throw a ball at a target like your front door, would it be easier to hit it
from 15 feet away or from 60 feet away? Spot bowling, instead of pin bowling or just
looking at the pins, will allow you to use the markers to hit the real target 60 feet away. By
using this method of aiming, you will become more accurate and better able to make
adjustments that will increase your production of spares and strikes. You can use the
arrows that are 15 feet away or the dots that are 7 feet away. Each one has its
advantages and disadvantages, but preference will likely dictate which you use. You will
make adjustments from your starting position and which specific range marker you aim
for. With practice you can learn exactly at which range marker to aim for each starting
position. See Drills Box 20.2 for a drill to introduce spot bowling.

Strike Strategies

The goal of bowling is to acquire as many points as possible. That means make as many
strikes as possible. Sometimes the pins do not cooperate, so you will need to adjust the
specific pocket target. If you are a straight-ball shooter, you will not get many strikes
unless you angle your shot from the right gutter side of the lane. Roll your ball from the
second board, over the eighth board and on to the 17th board at the pins. A more
effective strike strategy would be to roll a hook that would go out around the 10th board
heading toward the 10th pin. At about the 35-foot position of the lane and on about the
fifth board, the ball begins hooking toward the middle of the lane and at the 17th board
hits the 1-3 pocket.

DRILLS BOX20.2

Spot Bowling Drill: Find the Pocket

You can rework this drill and use it from different positions on your own to figure out
exactly how to spot bowl. For the basic drill, you will align using the second row of dots.

STARTING POSITION

Aim for the 1-3 pocket in this drill. Start at the second row of dots, and place your left foot
on the center dot. Remember, the center dot lines up with the center arrow. Your target is

the second arrow from the right, which should go straight into the 1-3 pocket. Be sure to
use the handshake grip with the thumb at 10 o'clock (for the right-handed bowler).
Remember, lane conditions will vary and require you to understand the conditions. Roll
your ball over the second arrow several times to observe where your ball will go.

MAKING ADJUSTMENTS

To make adjustments based on where your ball is rolling, the key is to move your feet in
the opposite direction from where you want the ball to go (Figures 20.30 and 20.31). If
you're aiming for the 1-3 pocket and your ball hits the number 3 pin right of the pocket,
then you will need to make an adjustment that moves your ball to the left. Move your feet
four boards to the right for each pin you missed. This will steer the ball left which will
make better contact with the number 1 pin. Remember, you are still trying to hit the
second arrow on the right. If your ball hits the number 2 pin left of the 1-3 pocket, then
you will need to make an adjustment that moves your ball to the right. Move your feet four
boards to the left for each pin you missed. This will steer the ball left to make better
contact with the number 1 pin. Remember, you are still trying to hit the second arrow on
the right.

If you hit the 1-3 pocket and do not strike, you must examine what the 6 pin is doing. The
6 pin may be lazily sliding around the 10 pin, or it may be flying around the narrow neck of
the 10 pin. If the 6 pin slides around the 10 pin, then your ball does not have enough
hook, and you need to move to the right and/or slow it down to allow your ball to hook
sharper. If the 6 pin rings around the neck, called ringing, then you are coming too
sharp. You may choose the option of moving up or back 6 inches on delivery. Another
choice is to either speed up the ball or move your feet left one or two boards so the ball
comes in weaker, causing the 6 pin to hit the 10 rather than flying around the neck.

Spare Strategies

You probably know by now all balls rolled are not going to be strikes. However, the next
best possibility is the spare. Follow the suggestions for bowling a spare and you will likely
improve your scoring. Keep it as simple as possible when attempting a spare. When you
have a spare in the middle, try using the same technique and line you use when
attempting to throw a strike. As a beginner, you should always shoot for spares from the
strike line and make all adjustments from that line with the exception of splits and the 7/10
pins. For example, if you have the 8 pin to hit, move 1 to 2 boards to the right and roll your
strike ball line. This will cause the ball to hook up a little earlier and go to the 8 pin.

If you had the 9 pin to hit, you would move one to two boards left and use your strike
mark with a less aggressive ball. However, you do not want it to slow or it may hook past.
For example, if you have the 7 pin to hit, align your right shoulder with the gutter and then
walk toward the same right gutter; when you are three-fourths of the way to the foul line,
roll your ball over the second arrow. This will keep the ball on the outside of the lane and
will at the same time keep it from overhooking for the 4 pin. If you were targeting the 4-7,

you would move one to two boards left and roll over the exact same mark you used for
the 4 pin.

Remember, four boards make one pin movement and one to two boards make one-half
pin movement. If you have the 10 pin to hit, you will align your left shoulder with the left
gutter and then walk toward the left gutter; when you are three-fourths of the way to the
foul line, roll your ball over the fourth arrow as you visualize the line. Targeting the 6-10,
you would move one to two boards right and roll over the exact same mark used for the
10. Remember for a right-handed bowler, moving left (Figure 20.29) means that the pins
or pin remaining is to the right, whereas moving right (Figure 20.30) means that the pins
or pin remaining is to the left. For the left-handed bowler, the process is reversed from
that of the right-handed bowler. Moving left means that the pins or pin remaining is to the
right, and moving right means the pins or pin remaining is to the left-handed bowler's
right.

BOWLING AND LIFETIME PHYSICAL ACTIVITY

Bowling can be part of a lifetime of healthy physical activity. Bowling is one of the most common
sports played in retirement communities and can be played at any age level. As described
in Chapter 2, the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services set activity goals in the 2008
Physical Activity Guidelines for Americans. The guidelines suggest that an active adult should get
150 minutes per week of moderate-intensity activity, 75 minutes per week of vigorous-intensity
activity, or the equivalent through a combination of moderate and vigorous aerobic activity. In
addition to aerobic activities, everyone should also regularly engage in muscle-strengthening
activities at least twice a week covering all major muscle groups. You can choose a pattern of
activity that best fits your preferences to meet the goals set by the guidelines.

Category 1: 150 minutes of moderate-intensity aerobic activity per week and musclestrengthening activities on 2 or more days a week that work all major muscle groups (legs,
hips, abdomen, back, chest, shoulders, and arms).
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Category 2: 75 minutes of vigorous-intensity aerobic activity per week and musclestrengthening activities on 2 or more days a week that work all major muscle groups (legs,
hips, abdomen, back, chest, shoulders, and arms).

Category 3: An equivalent mix of category 1 and 2 activities, along with musclestrengthening activities on 2 or more days a week that work all major muscle groups (legs,
hips, abdomen, back, chest, shoulders, and arms).

Creating a Complete Activity Program with Bowling

Bowling is difficult to classify in terms of type and intensity of physical activity. It is predominately
a moderate-intensity muscular conditioning activity, but that can change depending on how you

are playing. If you are just playing for fun or playing with several other people on a single lane,
you are most likely not bowling frequently enough to gain more than minimal strengthening
benefits. If you are practicing or playing at a pace in which you are continuously bowling, you will
gain more fitness benefits.
If you bowl on a regular basis, you'll need to supplement it with activities that build
cardiorespiratory endurance and muscle strength in order to meet overall physical activity
recommendations. Check out some of the other activity chapters in Connect Get Active, along
with the sections on weight training and conditioning. You can develop a strength-training
program that builds overall fitness, but you can also include exercises that will help improve your
bowling technique and reduce your risk for injury.
One main goal of this class and toward a healthy lifestyle, of course, is continuing to be physically
active after your bowling class has ended. It is a lot easier to bowl when you are in a bowling
class. But have you thought about strategies for bowling once your class is over? Chapter
1discusses behavior change strategies that are very valuable once you leave this class and
eventually the college or university life. This may be your last chance for getting academic credit
for activity! Fortunately, bowling, as mentioned at the beginning of this chapter, is very popular.
Most cities have at least one bowling alley and frequently more. Some alleys offer deals or
discounts to regular players, so if you decide to be a regular bowler, ask about memberships.
Bowling is truly a sport that you may play for many years to come. One of the great advantages of
bowling is that you really do not need more than just yourself to play (Figure 20.32). You can play
in teams or individually for different types of competition. If you and your friends are sitting around
bored, go bowling: It is a great way to be active while having fun. In short, there are numerous
opportunities once you have left this class for physical activity through bowling.

Final Thoughts: Get Active!

You do not need to master every single bowling technique, the four-step approach or ball spin, to
be able to get the ball down the alley. Mastering spot bowl techniques will come with time; you will
find through practice where to aim while spot bowling. Once you have learned the basic rules and
understand how to use the fundamentals correctly, you are ready to bowl. As you obtain more
practice time you will quickly notice the improvement in your skills as well as your enjoyment of
the sport. With practice and playing time, alone or with friends, you will better learn how to apply
strategies and tactics that can take your game to a higher level of play and enjoyment. Having a
friend or friends to play and practice with will allow you to play even more and become a better
bowler. You now have all the knowledge and skills to enjoy and be able to play a game, so grab
some friends and hit the alley. More importantly, have fun as you continue to learn and improve
your bowling ability. Get active!