DAMP-PROOFING

Introduction to water absorption mechanics.

What is the cause of damp damage.

The physical basis of rising damp.

The root cause of damp in masonry is that the building materials are porous.
Pores are in fact the only route by which water can be taken up and absorbed.
Pores act as passageways for water and any aggressive substance. Water
soluble salts or acids are transported into the masonry by rising or lateral
damp. When the water evaporates, the salts are left behind. They gradually
accumulate, particularly in the evaporation zone.
Damp damage
The first signs of damage are paint blistering followed by efflorescence with
gradual breakdown of the Calcium Silicate which is the principle bonding
material of the matrix of the cement stone. Once plaster has worn away, the
chemical attack continues on the brick mortar. If left untreated the brick
mortar turns to loose sand and becomes non-load bearing.

Main causes for rising and or lateral damp attack.

Rising damp.
Damp rises by capillary action into the brickwork of the super structure only if
the required damp course is absent/defective or is bridged.
In older buildings malthoid was used in lieu of the currently used plastic damp
course. Maltoid degrades with age and becomes permeable.
The damp damage is compounded by the use of unsuitable cement in
combination with highly acidic building and plaster sand.
In most European countries the building regulation specifies the use of acidresistant cement for all concreting and brickwork below or near soil level. This
specific cement produces a very dense concrete and mortar and also reduces
the free unbonded lime (Calcium Hydroxide) component in the
concrete/mortar matrix.
Lateral damp.
Lateral damp damage is caused in most cases by externally elevated soil levels.
The lateral moisture originating in the adjacent soil is allowed freely to migrate
through the brickwork. Through unequal air pressure and the absence of a
suitable vertical damp barrier, water-soluble minerals (cement poisons) are
transported by the lateral moisture movement to the negative side (house
interior) where they settle out in the evaporation zone and where most of the
denudation takes place.
The serious damage caused by the mineral salt load could have been avoided
by the initial installation of an agricultural drain and a cementitious tanking
system.
Descending damp.
Descending damp is caused in most cases by rainwater incress at uncapped
parapet walls, loose chimney flashings, loose parapet flashings, defective roof
covers (flat roof), sky-light surround seal is loose. Also on flat roofs blocked

undersized drainpipes cause excessive rainwater ponding and subsequent

rainwater incress above the waterproofing.
Cosmetic & Structural damage caused by the mineral salts.
The biggest challenge to the successful repair of damp damaged structures is
the removal or conversion of mineral salts.
To identify the damaging salt or combination of mineral salts is not always
possible without a lab test. Herewith is a list of possible salts or salt
combinations:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

Calcium Nitrate Very Aggressive.

Calcium Sulphate Aggressive.
Magnesium Sulphate Aggressive.
Potassium Chloride Aggressive.
Sodium Sulphate Very Aggressive.
Sodium Chloride Lightly Aggressive but very Hygroscopic.
Calcium Chloride Lightly Aggressive but very Hygroscopic.

The above referenced list of mineral salts is not complete, however we have
listed the main culprits, also please be advised that damage is seldom caused
by one type of mineral salts only.
To neutralize or convert water-soluble salts to non-soluble salts cannot be
achieved in salt overloaded brickwork.
The best solution in this instance is to reduce the moisture content to ambient.
Without moisture the mineral salts become dormant.

DAMP REPAIR. (Rising Damp)

1.0 Remove all damp damaged plaster to a height of 850 -1000mm above the
floor slab exposing the brickwork.
2.0 Scrub down the brickwork and apply a neutralizing agent. (Please note:- It
is not possible to convert most soluble salts to non-soluble salts, however
some salts can be converted.)
3.0 Spray apply a hardener to the mortar joints.
4.0 Allow for a drying out period of minimum of 7 days.
5.0 Drill injection holes into the wall base and inject Propriety Material forming
a horizontal damp course.
6.0 Brush apply a cementitious tanking slurry.
7.0 Re-plaster with a low shrink (To avoid cracks) waterproof plaster matching
the existing plaster finish as closely as possible.
NB: Allow for a further 6 weeks drying out period before painting.
DAMP REPAIR. (Lateral Damp)
Internal work
1.0 Remove all damp damaged plaster.
2.0 Scrub down the exposed brick face.
3.0 Spray apply a hardener to the mortar joints.
4.0 Drill 22mm diameter injection holes through the first brick skin and inject a
cementitious waterproof compound into the wall cavity and so creating a
vertical damp barrier.
5.0 Brush apply a cementitious tanking slurry.
6.0 Re-plaster with waterproof low shrink plaster, matching the existing plaster
as closely as possible.
External work
Dig a trench along the offending wall.
Remove the plaster exposing the brickwork.
Apply tanking and re-plaster with a waterproof low shrink plaster.

Lay an agricultural drainpipe, provide a 2% slope and cover with geotechnical

cloth.
Cover the pipe with a layer of 19mm crusher stone and refill the trench with
random size stone and overlay with a 19mm crusher stone.
For more details please contact Len Bestele at 083 600 4341 or 011 024 8884
Or e-mail to pyrobond@telkomsa.net