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E SR Me te r Co mp a r i s o n | Di s c u s s i o n Fo r u m | Ar ti c l e s o n R e p a i r | Pa r ts
S up p l i er s | T i p s , Tri c ks , a nd Ga d g et s
Troubleshooting uc3842
Tricks
Soldering a flat pack IC
Replacing the HOT
Temporarily repair a worn down pinch roller
Custom build a VCR belt
HK shorts in CRT's
Repairing leaky flybacks
Depopulating old circuit boards
Riveted mode switches for VCR's
Replacing EEprom's in RCA's
Cleaning capstan shafts and rubber pinch rollers
Removing labels to reuse
Removing labels
Solder wick for FBT and rivits
Cleaning capstan spindle
Capstan roller refurbishing
Plastic repair
What is DAS and why do I need it?
Cleaning tape drives
Keeping track of screws
Cleaning Video Heads
Scope ESR
Eliminating cockroaches
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For NAP (Magnavox, Sylvania, Philco, Phillips) console TV sets, a spare 25"or 26" table model set whose chassis has
been destroyed by lightning, makes a very good test jig. Just remove the customer's chassis along with the front panel
control from any console model from the c5 chassis (15 years old) up to the present models and it will operate in this
test jig. The only connection to connect/disconnect are vert yoke, hor yoke, speakers, degauss and dag to crt board
and chassis. Two types of vert yoke connectors are used so test jig should have both vert yoke connector types. Do not
try to operate this test jig with 31" or larger as the yoke mismatch as well as pinc components will cause problems.
the discharge cannot be made. Turn on again the filament supply and proceed with another cathode. Caution! Do not
push the discharge switch while the filaments are under voltage, you could damage the cathode. For more security,
you can use a double-circuit pusher switch that automatically turns off the filament supply. When the three cathodes
are treated this way, test the monitor if it is still dim, repeat the procedure the times necessary, but if you do not see any
improvement, let it be, the tube is unrecoverable. Note the device described, as you see, is intended for use in the
countries where a 220 v. AC supply is available commonly. In USA and other countries where they have 120 volts (or
other), you have to experiment if the procedure is directly applicable this way. I suppose a 120 volts discharge would
do too.
discussion groups.. All subscribers have access to his, as well as over one hundred other technician's comments and
expertise.
Its connections are:
IBM 15 pin 3 row to Apple 15 pin 2 row
IBM 3 row Apple 2 row Signal Name
-------------------------------------------------1 2 Red Video
2 5 Green Video
3 9 Blue Video
4 nc
5 nc
6 1 Red Video Return
7 6 Green Video Return
8 13 Blue Video Return
9 nc
10 11 & 14 Grounds
11 nc
12 nc
13 3 & 15 3=Composite Sync, 15=H Sync
14 12 V Sync
15 nc
nc 4 Monitor ID #1
nc 7 Monitor ID #2
nc 10 Monitor ID #3
The three monitor IDs tell the Apple / Mac
video controller what frequencies or scan rates to output - but the PC computer doesn't need them.
10 amp Power Supply - submitted by Ron Reyn
Had a need for a low voltage power supply today with high current, and since it was after 530 and tommorrow being
Sunday, I decided to build one. So I got a few parts that I had laying around and built it. Except for the 15 amp
transformer, 50 amp bridge and 40,000 Ufd capacitor, I figure the parts would cost about 3 or 4 bucks. The supply is
ROCK stable and variable from 3 volts to 18 volts. The supply is over voltage and over current protected as a bonus.
See figure below.
access to his, as well as over one hundred other technician's comments and expertise.
To eliminate a possible bad G2 pot (or to repair it), I have been using following little circuit (5 components). It uses the
pulses from the HOT to create approximately 1000VDC. Feed this into a pot and then to G2. You only need three wires
from this module:
1 HOT collector
2 GND
3 G2
The circuit (copied from several monitors) from the Hot collector two 1000V fast diodes (BYV96E or equiv.) in serie, to a
10n 2KV cap, then to the top of a 2M HV pot, the bottom of the pot via 1M resistor to ground. The wiper of the pot
goes to the G2 input on the neck pcb. If you want to connect directly to G2 on the tube (eliminating the resistor and
cap already on the neck) you should add on the wiper a 1M resistor to a 10n 2KV cap (as filter). Of course be VERY
carefull when handling, also take care how you mount it it carries over 1KV!! See figure below.
Initially make small reference "tics" on the pot shaft and its case on all the affected pots with a micro Sharpie
permanent marker (blue seems to work best). This way you can go back to the starting point(s) if necessary. Next I
utilize a test aid made up from a test lead ~ 2 ft long with a standard size E-Z hook on each end. Cut the lead in half
and solder a momentary contact n.o. spst push button switch to the cut ends. My unit has the mini switch enclosed in
the round plastic shell salvaged from a standard size phone plug (guitar...not telex). This permits all the fingers to grip
it and the thumb to "blip" the switch rapidly. Hook up your cross hatch generator to the set and set up a large service
viewing mirror back far enough so that you can look back to it and get a full panoramic view of the whole TV screen.
Take one of the E-Z hooks and affix it to the center wiper pot of the specific pot you are about to evaluate, place the
other hook on either of the pots outer terminals. A quick "blip" should reveal the color you're working with and it's
displacement should clue you in as to its function e.g. hoz or vert bow, skew, trapez, lin etc. Then you can make a
sheet for reference until you locate the needed controls that need alignment. Should you not get a pattern displacement
you probably chose the outer pot terminal that already had its wiper element set close to that end , so swap to the
other terminal. Not too many sets utilize variable inductors on the board anymore, but when they do, you can
suspicion it's a hoz type of adjustment. If the coil utilizes a ferrite screw core I use a mini pocket screw driver that has a
small magnet on the end of the handle. Placing this in the inductor shell will skew the inductance greatly and you can
surmise its function. BTW this technique is very useful in rf circuits if you will use an allen wrench that just pass thru your
slug, this way you can see the tuning effect on your circuit or identify a coils function without disturbing its initial setting.
Repairing LCD's - submitted by Jeff Roberts. Jeff is a member of our email discussion groups.. All subscribers have
access to his, as well as over one hundred other technician's comments and expertise.
If the lamp is broken of course - replace it. Otherwise a bad lamp will still light. It just won't be a nice white color. More
of a reddish orange, only lit on the ends or flickering just like any other fluorescent lamp. You can, of course, try to
measure the output of the inverter but with the loading effect of the meter/scope and the fact that it's a high freq AC
output I wouldn't know what to look for. Lamps are only about $10 so that's where I start. Even if it doesn't solve the
problem you can still charge the customer, you just tell them there was no sense putting a new inverter onto an old
lamp so you replaced it while you were "in there". I personally wouldn't want to warrantee a laptop with a new inverter
and a used lamp. If it comes back next month with the old lamp burnt out you'll be replacing it for free under
warrantee. The customer doesn't know invertors from lamps so they'll assume because the display went black last time
and the symptom is the same that you'll cover it. Lamps and invertors can both be had from JKL through Digikey. The
biggest problem with invertors is their physical size and mounting holes. I read the warrantee card on a KDS LCD
screen a few months ago, in fine print down at the bottom it said that the lamps AREN'T covered by the warrantee. This
means that if the lamps go out while it's under warrantee the unit goes to an authorized service center and they change
them but they get to bill the customer for the work. This may increase the revenue of those that are authorized because
they will now get paid for a lot more units by the customer instead of KDS but it's also going to make for a LOT of very
unhappy customers. I currently get $135 Cdn to change the two lamps in an LCD. We always change both, no
cheapskate onsies thank you very much. Lamps are about $10US - $15Cdn ea so labor shows $100 which is
comparable to what I used to get for a monitor repair. My advice is to go to the places that sell these and get in touch
with the manager, show/explain to the manager that the lamps aren't covered and that if his customers come in with
this symptom they will be better served by sending them to your shop for faster service. A lot of the big box outlet stores
take the returns and send them off to a depot. This could leave the customer without his unit for up to a week and
they'll still get a bill. In the next 5 years a lot of these will be failing, the lamps only last a couple of years if left on all
the time. Although I strongly disagree with the idea that LCDs will replace the monitor any time soon (read in the next
10-15 years) I don't let opportunities slip by either.
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I have a '90 Legend LS with the Bose individually amplified speakers. Three of the four speaker amp combinations
were very low volume with some motorboating (low freq. oscillation) in the rear speakers. I replaced all the electrolytic
capacitors (the can-shaped ones) with new ones, as I have heard they leak out their electrolytic fluid over time, causing
the gain to go way down, as well as the motorboating and, in some cases, a whining sound. I used a signal generator
to inject a 1000hz signal into the input, as well as my bench power supply to give it 12vdc. After each cap was
changed, I flicked on the power and verified that the tone was coming out of the speaker. I observed that after
replacing a few of the smaller caps that the gain greatly increased, and after replacing the larger caps that the
motorboating vanished. I also replaced the four output transistors on one amp, in the case of this amplifier, they were
n-channel mosfets. The device number on the existing transistors is apparently a proprietary Bose number, so I
substituted an IRFIZ24N, which seems to work fine. If you're not proficient in soldering, get a friend who is, as it's easy
to ruin your amplifier.
Repair plastic cracks and rebuild any surface - submitted by Gavin Beverely
Take SuperGlue / CrazyGlue and apply to surface that needs rebuilding or gluing together. As soon as possible take a
pinch of baking soda and sprinkle on the Crazyglue. This causes the Superglue to set instantly, approx. half a second,
and also builds up the surface. This leaves the Superglue and baking soda as hard as granite -no exaggeration. I have
not yet found anything that can compare to the strength and holding power of this stuff. Very useful around plastic.
Clearing CRT Shorts - submitted by Jim Kocmoud. Jim is a member of our email discussion groups.. All subscribers
have access to his, as well as over one hundred other technician's comments and expertise.
If the CRT is shorted Focus to G2, one technique that we use is to disconnect the G2 wire from the CRT PCB. Then,
power up the set, and when the focus voltage backfeeds into the G2 and builds up a potential, it will arc thru the G2
circuit protector to ground and Voila, short is gone! If the CRT is shorted HV to Focus, we remove the CRT PCB, and
hold a grounded screwdriver about 1/2" away from the focus pin. Again, after power up, the resulting arc usually
clears the short.
Editors Note: A series of messages on this topic were posted to AnaTek's ELREPAIR email discussion group. The
postings of Mr. Gottlieb and Mr. Roberts were so helpful and authoritative that got their permission to post them here
for everyone. Thank you Peter and Jeff.
I have seen quite a few mentions of capacitor leakage, and some references to the "acid" that leaks out. I would like to
correct this misconception and explain what I have found out about the construction of electrolytics and the dangers of
leakage.
As you may remember from physics, to get high capacitance you need either a large surface area or very close
spacing of the electrodes. Since large surface areas, even in a jelly-roll type construction like in an electrolytic cap, are
impractical, the solution is to get very close spacing between the plates. If you open up an electrolytic you will find a
plain aluminum plate, an "insulator", and an aluminum plate with some sort of coating. This coating is actually the
insulator and is very thin. What seems like the insulator is actually a porous holder for an electrolyte solution.
The electrolyte used in most electrolytic capacitors is a salt solution in a solvent. This solvent is not water (it would
freeze too easily), it is some hydrocarbon (frequently DMF, dimethylformamide). The salts used are proprietary to each
capacitor manufacturer but are not table salt!! The DMF is itself not corrosive and will evaporate once the capacitor
seals are breached or the DMF escapes the can. It is the salts that are so corrosive to the circuit traces, especially in
damp or humid environments.
Now for the problems. A dry salt is not corrosive or conductive, but add moisture and major problems start. Any high
impedance circuits can be shorted out or pulled to the wrong state. Power circuits will corrode, short out, and can even
catch fire (it was a fire investigation where I learned of this "interesting" possibility). If you find a capacitor that has
leaked, you MUST thoroughly clean the residue from the board or you may end up with a call-back. This has
happened when a repair is made when it is dry out and then when the humidity increases the camcorder or whatever
no longer works properly.
I saw a comment that corrosion can occur some distance from the leakage. This is because the solvent can carry the
salts further than you may think. You really need to do a lot of cleaning. A few of the salts are UV visible so if you have
a UV lamp handy give it a shot, you might get lucky. If a lot of caps have leaked the unit may be Beyond Economical
Repair unless you can do a bulk cleaning of the board.
Just to add to your explanation a good way to bulk clean. We have a particular power supply where the electrolyte
leaks out and makes a real mess, not only does it corrode the traces but it can be conductive which makes for "extra"
traces and shorts and a whole mess of problems.
We remove all of the caps and use a Q-tip and alcohol to start the clean up process, we then repair/replace any
damaged traces and then we put them into the dishwasher and let it wash and rinse them. We don't use the dry cycle
but stop it and just let them dry up overnight or with a hair dryer, then replace the caps and it's done. This works
great!!!
The boards clean up like new and all of the electrolyte is cleaned off so there is no future corrosion or problems.
Dishwashing soap is VERY powerful and combined with the high pressure water jets the job it does is great, after all if
it'll clean the lasagna pan - a little chemical spill is nothing. Best of all it's cheap and much faster than trying to hand
clean a board.
NOTE: We have an old dishwasher that belongs to the shop. I would not advise that you wash any dishes along with
any circuit boards since you may end up with electrolyte on your dishes - YECH!
If the solvent or DMF has not evaporated, is the electrolyte conductive? I would assume so, as I thought the electrolyte
serves to bring the capacitance up by allowing charges to migrate very close to the next layer. Perhaps you could
clarify your description of the construction, as I am confused as to what you are calling the "insulator" and the
"coating", and why the electrolyte is used.
To answer your question, yes, if the solvent has not evaporated the electrolyte is conductive. The "solvent" is no more
complicated than when table salt is dissolved in water. When wet, it is conductive and corrosive (due in part to
plating/electrolysis) but when completely dry the salt becomes an insulator. Of course, salts tend to absorb moisture
from the humidity in the atmosphere so once you get a salt solution on something there will always be a leakage until
it is cleaned. A good example of how salts absorb moisture is the salt calcium chloride, which is used as sidewalk
deicer.
If you leave a cup of these granules out in a humid area they will absorb moisture until they all melt together into a wet
mass. Dessicant packs are made of this same salt, and you can make dessicant packs by sewing a bunch of this salt
into a fabric bag.
As for the construction of an electrolytic cap, one aluminum electrode is coated with a thin oxide, and this
nonconducting oxide is the insulator in the capacitor. However, this oxide has a rough surface. To get the other plate of
the cap mechanically close to this rough surface requires a trick - make the other plate a liquid! Thus, the electrolyte is
really the other plate and the electrolyte is in contact with the bare aluminum plate connected to the other terminal.
There is a porous (usually paper) separator between the two plates and this serves two purposes: hold the liquid
electrolyte solution, and keep the two metal plates from touching each other.
You may ask, why can't the two plates touch each other if one is coated with insulating oxide? The answer is that they
can touch, but vibration or shock (mechanical) or a sharp bit of dirt could break the oxide coating and then the cap
would short out.
So, in short, the oxide coated aluminum plate is one electrode and the insulator, and the electrolyte and bare
Regarding cleaning, I had read that Tektronix puts their scopes in a spray booth and uses hot water and mild detergent
to clean them when they are sent in for major service. This is followed by a day in a 160 degree F oven. I remember
that their comment was that the water was least damaging of all cleaning methods.
I used to wash off PDP-11 computer boards in the sink when they became dust encrusted and this really freaked
everyone out. One of my bosses called DEC to ask if this was OK and was told that this was actually the preferred
cleaning method. They still thought I was weird, but that is another story...
Nowadays, with the concern for the ozone layer, all PC board manufacturing uses water-based fluxes and hot water
cleaning. However, there are some components that cannot withstand this and they must be installed after the "wash."
Some parts have little plastic seals that are removed after the wash, like DIP switches and piezo buzzers. Before you just
wash any old board you have to be able to identify whether any components will be damaged and remove them first.
You can sometimes tell by those components not having clean connections, an indication they were installed manually
after the PC board wash cycle. Relays will have an epoxy seal if they can handle washing. Do not wash a relay that is
not sealed, you will ruin it.
How to determine a Zener Diode's voltage - submitted by Richard Thomas. Richard is a member of our email
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discussion groups.. All subscribers have access to his, as well as over one hundred other technician's comments and
expertise.
Take the good diode and solder a 1K resistor to one end, then apply about 24V across it with the positive of the
voltage source to the banded end of the diode. Now measure the voltage across the diode only with your meter. That
will tell you its zener voltage for replacement. The 1K resistor is necessary to drop the excess voltage i.e. if you apply
24V and it is a 10V zener then the resistor will drop the other14V and will limit the current to 14/1000=14Ma. Power
will be140mW across the diode-more than safe for a 1/4W zener or above.
with a better one, such as a 47uF 63V with a 105C temperature rating. A quick external diagnostic is possible. The DC
jack at the back og the set presents the converter output on the spring contact when no plug is present. By CAREFULLY
poking a sharp, slender probe tip to the spring without disengaging it from the bypass contact, the DC output of the
converter can be measured without opening the set up. If you see 25V or more, unplug the set, and replace C609 and
the zener (5.6V) before powering it up again. Note that because I did this without a schematic, the zener voltage was a
trial and error affair. The TV-on DC voltage appears to be 15V with 115VAC mains, and around 18V when off.
How to quiet noisy transformers - submitted by Jeff Roberts. Jeff is a member of our email discussion groups.. All
subscribers have access to his, as well as over one hundred other technician's comments and expertise.
Take a can of shellac or varathane. Solder 3-4" wires onto the four corner pins of the transformer so you can hold it by
the wires. Holding onto the wires so that the transformer is inverted and level lower it into a can of shellac or varathane
so that it is submerged up to the pins but do not get the pins wet. Remove and hang to dry for a day or so. This has
quieted quite a few noisy coils and transformers.
Locating the component that is causing the fuse to blow - submitted by Derek Cook. Derek is a member of our email
discussion groups.. All subscribers have access to his, as well as over one hundred other technician's comments and
expertise.
This is a sure fired way of finding your fault: Set your watt meter to 1.5 amps and 0 volts. Turn up the AC until you start
drawing 1 amp for 25 seconds. Turn off AC feel around for the hottest component and there you have it. These are the
easiest to find. Do not let the AC go higher than 16v.
Top
When you have a Monitor power supply blown up that uses the old favorite uc3842 chopper driver ic. ie, blown mains
fuse, shorted fet, etc., a quick way to determine if the uc3842 ic has survived without taking it out of circuit is to
measure pins 5,6 and 7 as if pin 5 was the base of a npn transistor, using an analogue meter on rx1. If it reads
forward with negative lead on pin 5 and o/c with positive on pin 5, chances are 99% ic ok. Have found this a useful
check and saved replacing uc3842 for no reason many times. (Murphy does play a part 1% of the time.)
An alternative way to use the sandpaper is to cut a small piece of it, hold it in one of your hand and pass it over the
pinch roller that is held with 2 fingers of the other hand. In all cases, don't overdue it, stop when the glossy appearance
and/or the pits disappeared.
Another way is to fix the pinch roller to a lathe and pass the sandpaper on it while it is rotating.
1) On some models, the carbon rubber is thick enough, only the surface has lost his conductive properties. Use a very
fine sandpaper, like 1000 grain, and gently remove the old surface of the carbon rubber to expose the new surface.
This tip doesn't work if only the rubber surface coated with carbon. This tip work fine if all the rubber has the carbon
mixture incorporated in it.
2) Salvage an old or cheap calculator keyboard. Cut the carbon rubber contact's tip from one key and place it on the
other key, from which the defective rubber contact has been removed. I found that one of the following glue methods
works fine, depending on the rubber material pure silicone sealant (for bathroom) or 5 min. Epoxy glue, 24h epoxy
doesn't work. The glue needs to stay flexible when hardened.. To select the appropriate carbon rubber contact, it is best
to make measurements directly on the exposed surface, with the two tips an ohmmeter to find a similar resistive
material. This is because some circuits use a current or voltage comparator circuit. So if the resistance is too low or too
high, the circuit could make false triggering of the corresponding key.
HK shorts in CRT's - submitted by Nicolas Cannonne. Nicolas is a member of our email discussion groups.. All
subscribers have access to his, as well as over one hundred other technician's comments and expertise.
This is useful when you have a CRT short from any cathode to heater. The aim is to apply an ungrounded voltage to
heater pins. First cut all traces that goes to the heater pins on CRT board. Then take a wire, make one (or more) loop
around FBT core and apply the 2 ends of the wire at the enter of the schema. This signal is something like AC signal
going from 10V to +15V at the Horizontal frequency rate. So the diodes avoid any negative voltage, the caps are
doing a nice flat 15VDC and the regulator make the 6.3V required for the heater. The LM317 has to be mounted on
heatsink. I have added one more diode in input just to drop 0.7V.The less the input is the less the reg heats. Connect to
2 output pins directly to the heater pins on CRT board. First thing to do is to check with your scope the output voltage
of the wire looped on FBT, may be youll have to do some additional turns to increase voltage. You can replace the 1K
resistor by a 5K pot to adjust the output voltage. Heater usually draws something like 1A. This has saved 3 Trinitron
CRT for me.
This works for multisync monitors. 99% of the monitors I have seen are using a DC voltage for filament. Thanks for any
feedback if it doesnt work for you.
Repairing leaky flybacks - submitted by David
Burn hard black plastic material to stop the leaking. You can use silicone, it works too.
Depopulating old circuit boards - submitted by Jeff Roberts. Jeff is a member of our email discussion groups.. All
subscribers have access to his, as well as over one hundred other technician's comments and expertise.
We have a solder pot, it is a ring of stainless steel about 8 inches across welded on top of a base plate of regular iron.
Try to picture an 8-inch circle of iron (solid across the diameter) then picture a large ring, also 8 inches across but only
1 inch wide that gets placed on top of the solid piece. Weld the ring to the plate around the INSIDE of the ring so it
becomes a reservoir. Buy bar solder from the hardware store, usually used for sheet metal work, about $8.00 Cdn per
bar. Place the plate on the burner of a stove, it is about the same size as one of the small burners, and turn the burner
to medium, add a couple of bars and in no time at all you have a pot of molten solder, place any old circuit board
across the top of this rig and it unsolders all of the components that touch the reservoir at the same time, you merely
place it down and start pulling parts off with your pliers, you can depopulate a monitor circuit board of all it's valuable
parts in about 2-5 minutes once you get the hang of it. You can breakdown/depopulate 20 monitor boards and do the
cleanup and preliminary sorting in a 6-hour shift. You won't need to buy parts unless it is something special, like a
Sony IC or a strange video driver. My transistor bins are all full as are my capacitor bins, thyristor bins, bridge bins,
coil bins, and IC bins. I have cross reference books so I can always find a good sub from my own stock.
CAUTION: Wear heavy clothes, long sleeve shirts, goggles and gloves. If a capacitor falls off a board and lands in the
pot and goes unnoticed then a minute or so later it will explode!! And you get solder everywhere (yourself, ceiling,
walls floor etc.). So you have to be careful. It also smells bad, because the materiel that the circuit boards are made of
does not like to heat up like that, fiberglass boards are OK but pheolic smokes and stinks bad. We have a large fan in
the window to exhaust the smoke and we open other windows and doors to keep the air fresh.
Cleaning capstan shafts and rubber pinch rollers - submitted by Paul Worthen
Use "Scotch Brite" scouring pads. They are usually available at Home Depot, in the paint department. The pads are
plastic, therefore won't damage the cap shaft and have the scouring power of "00" steel wool.
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What is DAS and why do I need it? - submitted by Kurt Hanson. Kurt is a member of our email discussion groups.. All
subscribers have access to his, as well as over one hundred other technician's comments and expertise.
As time goes by, more and more monitors are being built with microprocessors or microcontrollers incorporated in the
circuitry. The use of these controllers allows for more user/servicer adjustment options at a lower manufacturing cost.
This increases the profit margins of the manufacturers. These processors were once only found in the expensive Sun,
Sony, Taxan monitors, used in desk top publishing/CAD businesses. Now they are in virtually every monitor made
today.
The modern (post 1994) CRT's are "weaker" and do not last more than a few years, without losing picture quality. (Grey
scale or white balance, focus and brightness.) These CRT changes make it necessary to readjust them by using some
sort of Digital Alignment System or DAS. Sony DAS is not new. It was first used or designed in the middle to late 80's. It
is a way to change or rewrite data bits into registers that are processed by the controllers, using simple, basic serial
communication.
Sony's DAS system is protected from piracy by using a "key" installed on LPT1, or printer port. This "key" must be
installed for the DAS program to initialize. I have been using the Sony system since 1991. My DAS system was put
together for almost $10,000. I am Radius, HP, Compaq, Sony, Apple and Digital certified for component level repair...
I have worked for a big corporation for a long time now. I certainly couldn't afford that amount on my own.
I understand that you can get the basic DAS system (software and hardware) for under $1000 now. My system is NOT
basic! I can do DAS adjustments on most all monitors now. Major brands at least. Some are certainly not worth the
time though.
Several years ago, when I was confronted by my first cockroaches, I followed the procedure with the Raid and a
garbage bag. When I realized this did not kill them all, I tried something else as I knew I would run into more in the
future and I do not want them things around my house! The next time I came across cockroaches, dozens and in all
sizes, I decided to try the freeze method. As cockroaches seek heat, I figured they are probably delicate where cold is
concerned. I took one large dude and placed him in a sealed Bell jar. Next comes the freezer for a 15 minute test. He
came out looking dead, but I let him warm up and found he was only dazed. Next time was a half hour. This time he
was very dead! Now that a time had been established, I was confident of a simple cure. As I had a fresh, dead one to
examine, I went to roll him over with my forceps. I noticed his antenna being attracted to the forceps as they have a
slight magnetic charge. Hmmmmmmm....... cockroaches like heat. Transformers and power supplies give off heat
AND magnetic fields. I have come to the assumption they find electronic components by their magnetic fields. (Just a
little info for you). Anyway, the cure? Plastic garbage bag with the mouth rolled up to the VCR and then taped shut. In
the freezer for 24 hours!! Never had a live one after that! (It has also never harmed the VCR's).
submitted by Eric Richards
Use a can of oil spray like CRC 2-23 or CRC 5-56 used in most TV & VCR workshops.
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