NEW YORK

FASHION WEEK
FALL 2015

This report reveals the key trends from New

York Fashion Week Fall 2015. We have analyzed
every garment shown on the weeks runways
to identify the themes, colors, fabrics, prints and
shapes which will have the most commercial
impact in Fall 2015. As the week drew to a
close, we matched online buzz with commercial
potential and identified New Yorks favorite
designers.
These are the top trends, representing the
biggest potential for retailers and fashion
businesses in the coming season.

www.editd.com

DESIGNERS
MARC JACOBS

Marc Jacobs closing show on Thursday night sealed the deal, earning
him enough online mentions to take the lead ahead of Oscar de la Renta,
and the newbie there, Peter Copping. The level of detail which went into
Jacobs collection meant hed more than earned the award of New York
Fashion Weeks most talked about designer. With his knack for flinging
varied references into a collection and creating magic, this season was partEdwardian in black lace floor length skirts, part-40s in floral full skirts, twin
sets and over-elbow gloves, and part-70s with Peter Pan collars and v-necked
tank tops. There were bondage elements with straps across body, sheer
tulle peeking beneath tunics, thigh-high leather boots. There was plaid and
tweed - some deconstructed in painterly daubs. There were skunk fur jackets,

coats and capes and buttons. But the real standout was the shimmer - the
sequins, jewels and embellishment which adorned everything and made
an excellent use of the front rows latest tool: slow motion iPhone 6 videos,
swiftly uploaded to Instagram.
Of course, that wasnt the brands only show, though Katie Hillier and Luella
Bartley man the decks at Marc by Marc Jacobs. This season, the brand
showed a feminist army in William Morris prints. In berets, punky tartan and
utility pockets, with floor skirts and covered in studs, this was where the
brands younger supporters could find their in. An all-round strong season
from Team Jacobs.

SOURCE: TWITTER @KIMKARDASHIAN

KANYE X ADIDAS ORIGINALS

New York Fashion Week Fall 2015 Report | www.editd.com

The fashion industry may have good cause

to question Mr Wests design credentials.
The fella may not know his way around a
sewing machine, but his industry impact
cannot be denied. If truly viewed as the
designer of his collaboration with Adidas
Originals, then he is the weeks most talked
about designer. Of course, much of that
online buzz is derived from his part-time
job in music and his spotlight-friendly
family, but his visibility does put him in a
position to shift consumer tastes on a global
scale. So what of the clothes? They were
militant - some overtly, like the oversized
army issue sweaters, and others with subtle
hints, like a flak jacket vest and camo print.
It was genderless and uniform in a muted
palette - items designed for wearing with a
hangover, or while serving time. While that
might not steer an entire industry, the Yeezy
Boost sneakers will have retailers standing to
attention.

JASON WU

DONNA KARAN

COACH

ALEXANDER WANG

NEW YORKS COLOR PALETTE

Fall 2015s palette has marked an about-turn in the proceedings of the last few
seasons. Gone are the wealth of oranges, tangerines and bright yellows of Fall
2014. The array of pinks, including bright bubblegum from Spring 2015 have
pared right back, and mint has disappeared altogether. Instead, Fall designers
took a cool, calm and collected turn, with earthy tones in russet, fudge, moss

DEREK LAM

PRABAL GURUNG

COSTELLO TAGLIAPIETRA

ALTUZARRA

CREATURES OF COMFORT

DKNY

NYFW
FALL 2015

and mushroom. Greys, black and navies spoke clearly of the level-headed
season ahead - where the functionality of weather-proof clothing took priority
over frippery. That doesnt mean Fall is devoid of color with impact - when
color was used, it was in saturated, rich pops of mustard, deep plum and the
most drinkable of reds.

BLACKOUT
All black, everything. There was a hardcore movement amongst a number of
designers to abandon color. At Diesel, Black Gold the gold was eschewed,
replaced with d-rings, bondage detailing, pleats, zips and more hardware all in
noir. Alexander Wangs leather, paired with velvet was trimmed in metal chain,
the nipped waists cinched with double-breasted fastenings and bib-shaped necks
hinted at armour. Vera Wangs midnight hour came in boxy and mannish forms,
with drawstring waists, uneven straps, more d-rings and overlong sleeves. She
New York Fashion Week Fall 2015 Report | www.editd.com

worked the trend towards evening with bewitching, but simple velvet gowns.
Donna Karans take on black came in suiting, with tuxedo styling and uneven
layers and Thom Brownes darkly sombre collection was fit for a mafia funeral.
It cant be argued that black is what we wear. Yet, it felt more defiant than just
serving to the customer. This is battle armour, and the war cry is that luxury
doesnt have to rely on the shimmering and the loud to stand out.

THEMES
THAT 70s SHOW
Spring 2015 has paved the way for the 70s trend warming up consumers retro appreciation and shaping
tastes for wider fits and heavily vintage accessories.
With knee high boots, suede fringing, A-line skirts and
flared denim currently flying out of stores, retailers
will revel in the 70s theme for Fall 2015 and consumer
demand will be primed by the time the latest offerings
arrive in store.

TOMMY HILFIGER

JILL STUART

DEREK LAM

ALTUZARRA

How does Fall move the story forwards? There were

two clear strains of the 70s trend on New York runways.
The first was taking its inspiration from the hedonistic
70s; rock n roll and glamour. Think Patti Smith nighttime insouciance or Studio 64 glitter. There were
sequinned party numbers (at Rodarte) and lurex: striped
at Jill Stuart and knitted at Ohne Titel.
The second inspiration for the 70s trend doesnt feel
so novelty, but could have a longer-term impact on
the clothes consumers want to buy. J.Crew, Tome,
Altuzarra, Tory Burch and Derek Lam are just a few

of the designers who have taken the more louche aspects of 70s clothing and reworked them into elegant, non-prissy contemporary looks. On the runway
dominated slim, but not skinny-cut, tailored flares, silken pussy bow blouses and suede used in a way that doesnt look fusty or too retrospective. Key pieces
here will be mule shoes, flares, turtlenecks, wide culottes, capes and denim.

HELLESSY

CREATURES OF COMFORT

COSTELLO TAGLIAPIETRA

YIGAL AZROUEL

RICHARD CHAI

DION LEE

COACH

FROZEN

The runways were a true reflection of the sidewalks this season as

temperatures in New York kept snow piled on street corners and required
show goers to get clever with thermal layers. Those made the cacophony
of furs and the acre upon acre of knitwear seem more tempting than ever.

scarves. While every shade imaginable was on offer, more designers

plumped for natural colorings, often patchworking different shades, or
combining with leather. Coachs leather bikers were spliced with shearling.
They looked hard and sturdy; armour ready for the fight against the big

Certainly, these were clothes made by New Yorkers, for New Yorkers.

chill. Duvet coats and blown-up quilting, though softer in form, were no
less serious in the cold mission.
Layering was everywhere. From the biker jackets, t-shirts and double skirt
layers at a grungy 3.1 Phillip Lim, to Rag & Bones fine layered tees, skirts
over trousers and double coats - more is definitely more. Many designers
took things full-comfort with entire knit ensembles at Rebecca Minkoff,
Hellessy and appropriately, Creatures of Comforts floor length chenille.

What constitutes the frozen trend for Fall 2015? Parkas - fur lined, printed,
quilted, colorful or colorless - they were everywhere: at Rodarte, Band
of Outsiders, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Victor Alfaro. Fur, too, was one of the
biggest buzz creators during the week. Designers swaddled their models
in patchworked fur coats, in fox fur stoles, and in cropped jackets and long
New York Fashion Week Fall 2015 Report | www.editd.com

GARMENTS
CAPE COATS

LACOSTE

JOSIE NATORI

REBECCA MINKOFF

Parkas were popular on the runway, and are hugely popular in retail
currently - they will be foolproof for the new season. But those wishing
to push forward into newer trend territory should look to cape coats
for an innovative injection. Josie Natori, Red Valentino and Milly put
actual capes on the runway, but many designers used worked cape
shapes into a coat hybrid. Lacostes Tenenbaum influenced collection
and Michael Kors thirties sensibility included mannish woollen coats,
with slashed sleeves that hinted at the casualness of a coat flung over
shoulders, but without the chill factor. Tommy Hilfiger and Libertine
both sent out traffic-stopping red cape coats - Libertines belted and
Hilfigers sleeved. From the commercial perspective, capes brilliantly
align with the layering trend. They work well in attention-grabbing
styling and encourage consumers to add in extra warmth layers.

JUMPSUITS

ZIMMERMANN

PRABAL GURUNG

MARA HOFFMAN

Jump around! instructed House of Pain and New Yorks designers for
Fall 2015. Be that in short-sleeved forms with Red Valentinos floral
number or in denim by Frame, Sea and Rachel Antonoff. Things got
slinkier in Diane Von Furstenburgs polka 70s throwback, more formal
in Prabal Gurungs tuxedo styling and sublimely streamlined at Narciso
Roderiguez. Consumers have responded well to dungarees and all
in ones and therefore working these jumpsuits into Falls assortments
will be easy. Utilitarian styling, with boxy cuts and workwear details are
one option, and silk evening wear cuts another. Of course, with the
seasons penchant for denim, itd be wise to experiment with this.

New York Fashion Week Fall 2015 Report | www.editd.com

TANYA TAYLOR

Turtleneck tops and sweaters are critical to Fall 2015, and thats a
good thing, because theyre already selling well - consistently selling
out quickly through Fall 2014. In September 2014, new arrivals of
turtlenecks were up by 58% compared to September 2013. They were
all over the Fall runways, layered beneath blazers, jumpsuits, strappy
dresses and pinafores at Thakoon, Sea, Tanya Taylor and Zimmermann.
J. Crew built them into slouchy sweaters worn with wide, wide pants,
while Proenza Schoulers clingy and revealing slashed knit dresses
retained some modesty with long sleeves and turtlenecks. More
dramatic forms were created in knitted roll neck sweaters at Frame,
Edun and Richard Chai, as well as exaggerated funnel necks at DKNY.
Tomes narrow snoods gave the impression of a turtleneck, yet still
allowed for plunging necklines - an unusual take.

DKNY

BCBG MAX AZRIA

TURTLE NECKS

FABRICS
DENIM

ALEXANDER WANG

JULIA SEEMANN

TOMMY HILFIGER

Wide trousers are on the increase, but as denim

retailers scramble to fight off the athletic trend
detracting from their jeans sales, designers responded
by putting flares on the runway. Flares were seen at
Karen Walker, Wes Gordon and Tommy Hilfiger in a
70s air. New arrivals of flared jeans in retail grew by
173% in January 2015, compared to January 2013
- outstripping the skinny jean growth rate by 107%.
At Marc by Marc Jacobs, denim was spliced with
floral prints, emblazoned with slogans and styled with
bumbags. But it wasnt only in jeans that designers
were utilizing denim. The fabric sprung up in all over
looks, wackily at VFiles Julia Seeman and in a rawedged grey denim suit at 3.1 Phillip Lim. We expect
denims presence to continue through the months
shows - such is the fabrics elevated status right now.
Alexander Wang agrees - his sole concession to color
in an entirely black collection were a pair of flocked
denim jeans.

PATCHWORK

New York Fashion Week Fall 2015 Report | www.editd.com

TRACY REESE

THAKOON

EDUN

The patchworked trend partially lends itself

to the 70s theme - thats the way Diane Von
Furstenberg used it in homespun and haphazard
knitwear tunic dresses and sweaters in beige,
black and white, and Tory Burch in suede with
sewing class topstitching. At Tracy Reese,
Coach and Carolina Herrera, fur was patched
in with leather, jacquards and nylons - moving
far away from the do-it-yourself look. The
simpler pieces were perhaps best we liked the
earthy tones and gradations at Thakoon and
the contemporary-looking suede and leather
splicing at Edun. Designer patchworking is wise
- retailers would struggle to mimic the finesse
and form in the cacophony of fabrics on display.

PRINTS
PLAID

CREATURES OF
THE WIND

VIVIENNE TAM

ALEXANDER WANG

Plaid returned in force for Fall 2015. In Prince of Wales, it contributed

to the grey suiting seen across the week and building into the
androgynous story. In tartan, the print in red became midi skirts at
Rachel Antonoff and Kate Spade. Alexander Wang and 3.1 Phillip
Lim both used red plaids to create a uniform, almost military look
in their boyish collections and although the theme at Marc by Marc
Jacobs was feminist, it packed just as much, if not more, fighting spirit.
Although Altuzarra for one used plaid in pants, designers will see the
most bang for their buck using this print in tweedy outerwear and
strong plaid jackets.

STRIPES

LACOSTE

LISA PARRY

TOME

YIGEL AZROUEL

Why do stripes keep returning to runways? Because they sell. 44% of

all womens striped patterns currently retailing are within the luxury
and premium market and the print sees less discounting than plaids
and florals. Designers have fed into this sweet spot for Fall 2015,
fitting it into both the 1970s theme and also using it as a vehicle for
oh-so-now androgyny. Theres no need to play it safe though, as Yigal
Azrouel demonstrated with a striped placement print running down
one side of a suit, and across the cuff and body, that felt fresh and
rebellious. Tome and Lisa Perry played with alternating panels, while
Lacostes bias cut striped fabrics wound their way loosely around the
wearer.

FOLKLORE

New York Fashion Week Fall 2015 Report | www.editd.com

BCBG MAX AZRIA

HONOR

JOSIE NATORI

Its not often that an entirely new direction comes to the print table
in force, but many designers got behind the folksily whimsical this
season, and it was a success. Giving the air of well-travelled, if not of
this world, folklorish prints were a relief from all the practicality and
uniform at New York Fashion Week. There were storybook mirrored
prints at Honor, in striking monochrome, which bore a deer motif.
Josie Natoris etched scrawls, also monochromatic, adorned flared
skirts and car coats. At Veronica Beard, theres mileage in the Russianlooking embroidered placements, which could so easily be turned into
repeats or digitalized. The same was true at Tory Burch, where sublime
Moroccan prints were utterly covetable - she was totally on the money.

DETAILS
FRINGING

EDUN

BCBG MAX AZRIA

OHNE TITEL

Fringing has been a trend for the last two

seasons, so it may come as a surprise that
designers backed it so heavily for Fall
2015. However, in a bid to thrill customers
with exciting textures, fringing is a more
versatile and affordable resource than fur
or shearling. And texture is in big demand
after so long subscribing to the sleek and
streamlined rules of sports luxe. So, stay
with it and befriend fringing for another
season - let it trim the length of knee
high boots, run across the shoulders of
oversized biker jackets and peep from the
hemlines of skirts. J.Crews pink suede
pencil skirt with fringed trim will be a retail
superstar and theres plenty of newness to
be found in Rachel Comey, Ralph Lauren
and Tess Gibersons shaggy biscuit colored
knits.

FUR STOLES
It was impossible to miss the number of
fur stoles slung across models bodies this
season. From left hip, over right shoulder,
there were fox furs at Michael Kors, Donna
Karan, Creatures of the Wind, Jason Wu,
Thakoon and 3.1 Phillip Lim. Any retailer

New York Fashion Week Fall 2015 Report | www.editd.com

THAKOON

JASON WU

CREATURES OF THE WIND

reading this should act now - thats a powerful

endorsement from New York! The stole adds
luxury, without the expense of a full fur coat a smart move to broaden customer appeal in
difficult times. And of course, with such clever
faux furs and fun colors on the market, any
retailer and consumer can get involved in the
styling fun!

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