Improving wave forecasting in

the Catalan coast (WAM)

Adri Moya Ortiz
Tesina Novembre 2014

Snchez-Arcilla, Agustn
Gmez, Jess
Van Vledder, Gerbrant Ph.

Index
1.

Introduction

2.

Physics
2.1. Wave energy balance
2.2. Source terms

3.

The Catalan coast

3.1. Orography
3.2. Winds
3.3. Waves

4.

Analysis

5.

Conclusions

6.

Recommendations
Appendix: El model WAM Cy 4.5

1. Introduction

Obtain more reliable wave forecasts (specially

during storm events).

Calibration and readjustment of the wave

breaking physics of the wave model (WAM
Cycle 4.5 used by Meteorological Service).

2. Physics
2.1.

Energy balance

Local derivative (temporal)

Advective terms
Source terms
Local wave energy variation Net import of wave energy Local generation/dissipation of wave
in the grid cell during
in the grid cell during
energy in the grid cell during

, ,
, ,
,
+
+
= , = + 4 +

2. Physics
2.1.

Energy balace

,
0

,
+

, ,
, ,
+
=

, = + 4 +

( 5 )

2. Physics
Simulation - Observation
Relationship b/w spectral and integral
parameters (by means of spectral moments):

Significant wave height:

0 4 0

Mean period:
02 =

0

2

Peak period:
1
=
1

2. Physics
2.2.

Source terms / Energy dissipation - Whitecapping ( )

Hasselmann et al. (1974)

Incorporated by Komen et al. (1984)

, =

1 +

Used as a closure
function (unknown
physics)
Tunable parameters

3. The Catalan coast

Location
Northwestern Mediterranean (WM).

Latitude:
Longitude:

4045N - 4225N
045E - 315E

Orography
Acute spatial gradient:

Wide shelf on the south coast (presence of the

Ebro Delta).

Narrow shelf at mid latitudes intersected by

very deep canyons (Blanes and La Fonera).

Pyrenees, Ebro Delta, etc.

3. The Catalan coast

Winds

Autumn

Winter

Marked seasonality:

Winter-Autumn: Tramuntana
(N) and Llevant (E).

Spring: Garb (SW) and Llevant

(E).

Summer: Migjorn (S).

Influence of orography:

Spring

Summer

The Ebro river valley funnels the

wind blowing from the north.
As a result: coastal wind jets of
short duration and high
intensity, blowing off the coast.

Boia de Tortosa - XIOM (404312N ,005848E)

3. The Catalan coast

Waves

Autumn

Winter

Directional distribution according

with wind.

Wind-sea: short steep waves

locally generated by the action of
the energy provided by the wind
(NW).

Swell: long waves generated by

offshore storms (E and S).

Spring

Summer

Sheltering effect of the Balearic

Islands dissipates the energy of S wave
trains and limits the development of
NW wind-sea waves.

Boia de Tortosa - XIOM (404312N ,005848E)

BS
Discretization of the domain
Two nested meshes (WM BS):

WM (Western Mediterranean): 196x119 (9 km)

BS (Balearic Sea): 168x173 (3 km)

WM

4. Analysis
Simulation period

Generation of two
storms of different
nature
(representativeness).

4. Analysis
Simulation period

Generation of two
storms of different
nature
(representativeness).

4. Analysis
First storm
1/7 1/11

Swell (E) 1/7 1/9

Wind-sea (NW) 1/9

1/11
Two different sea states.
Generation of bimodal
spectra.

 , = 1 +

4. Analysis
First storm
1/7 1/11
Subestimation of 0 during the
peak of the storm.

Significant wave height

0 4 0

 , = 1 +

4. Analysis
First storm
1/7 1/11
Subestimation of 0 during the
peak of the storm.

Low-frequency energy (swell)

= . (lower dissipation)
increases the energy content for
all frequencies (overestimation of
high-frequency energy).

Delta () does not influence.

Fictitious dissipation of swell.

Significant wave height

0 4 0

 , = 1 +

4. Analysis
First storm
1/7 1/11
Better agreement during the second
part of the storm.

Significant wave height

0 4 0

 , = 1 +

4. Analysis
First storm
1/7 1/11
Better agreement during the second
part of the storm.

High-frequency energy (windsea).

Significant wave height

0 4 0

 , = 1 +

4. Analysis
First storm
1/7 1/11
Better agreement during the second
part of the storm.

High-frequency energy (windsea).

= . yields an excess of
energy (lower dissipation,
overestimation of energy at high
frequencies).

Significant wave height

0 4 0

 , = 1 +

4. Analysis
First storm
1/7 1/11
Subestimation of mean period 02
throughout the length of the storm.

Mean period

02 =

 , = 1 +

4. Analysis

02 =

First storm
1/7 1/11
Subestimation of mean period 02
throughout the length of the storm.

Overestimation of highfrequency energy

Smaller ratio

Decrease

= (dependence on the wave

number), reduces the energy
content at high frequencies.

Better agreement: =

Mean period

2 =

 , = 1 +

4. Analysis
First storm
1/7 1/11
Subestimation of mean period 02
throughout the length of the storm.

Overestimation of highfrequency energy

Smaller ratio

Decrease

= (dependence on the wave

number), reduces the energy
content at high frequencies.

Better agreement: =

Mean period

02 =

 , = 1 +

4. Analysis
First storm
1/7 1/11
Good agreement.

Transition between swell and

wind-sea

Mean wave direction

 , = 1 +

4. Analysis
First storm
1/7 1/11
Good agreement.

Transition between swell and

wind-sea

Wind velocity drops

Mean wave direction

 , = 1 +

4. Analysis
First storm
1/7 1/11
Good agreement.

Transition between swell and

wind-sea

Wind velocity drops

Mean wave direction

4. Analysis
Second storm
1/14 1/16

Wind-sea (NW)
generation 1/15
Energy mainly provided
by wind.
Peak associated to
coastal wind jet of
high intensity and short
duration.

4. Analysis
Second storm
1/14 1/16
Generation of a coastal wind jet of
high intensity and short duration at
the Ebro Delta.

Wind is funneled and driven

along the Ebro river (NW).

Duration shorter than 6 hours.

4. Analysis
Second storm
1/14 1/16
Generation of a coastal wind jet of
high intensity and short duration at
the Ebro Delta.

Wind is funneled and driven

along the Ebro river (NW).

Duration shorter than 6 hours.

Spatially local.

4. Analysis
Second storm
1/14 1/16
Generation of a coastal wind jet of
high intensity and short duration at
the Ebro Delta.

Wind is funneled and driven

along the Ebro river (NW).

Duration shorter than 6 hours.

Spatially local.

Development of relatively high

(wind-sea), in fetch-limited and
duration-limited conditions.

Waves

Significant wave height 0

Winds

Mean velocity 10

Waves

Significant wave height 0

Winds

Mean velocity 10

Waves

Significant wave height 0

Winds

Mean velocity 10

Waves

Significant wave height 0

Winds

Mean velocity 10

Waves

Significant wave height 0

Winds

Mean velocity 10

Waves

Significant wave height 0

Winds

Mean velocity 10

Waves

Significant wave height 0

Winds

Mean velocity 10

Waves

Significant wave height 0

Winds

Mean velocity 10

Waves

Significant wave height 0

Winds

Mean velocity 10

Waves

Significant wave height 0

Winds

Mean velocity 10

Waves

Significant wave height 0

Winds

Mean velocity 10

Waves

Significant wave height 0

Winds

Mean velocity 10

Waves

Significant wave height 0

Winds

Mean velocity 10

 , = 1 +

4. Analysis

Second storm
1/14 1/16
Subestimation of the peak of the
storm (coastal wind jet).

Temporal resolution of the

wind fields.

Subestimation of low-frequency
energy (swell) at the beginning.

Fictitous dissipation of swell

= . (lower dissipation) better

agreement

Significant wave heigth

0 4 0

 , = 1 +

4. Analysis

Second storm
1/14 1/16
Subestimation of the mean period
02 during the storm.

Overestimation of highfrequency energy.

Peak period

02 =

 , = 1 +

4. Analysis
Second storm
1/14 1/16
Good agreement.

Mean wave direction

 , = 1 +

5. Conclusions

= = 2
2

Overestimation of highfrequency energy

The model dissipates less energy
than the corresponding one at high
frequencies.
Due to the dependence of on
the mean steepness of the waves
.

Presence of swell

 , = 1 +

5. Conclusions
Overestimation of highfrequency energy
The model dissipates less energy
than the corresponding one at high
frequencies.
Due to the dependence of on
the mean steepness of the waves
.
Other source terms ( or 4).

= = 2
2

 , = 1 +

5. Conclusions
Overestimation of highfrequency energy
The model dissipates less energy
than the corresponding one at high
frequencies.
Due to the dependence of on
the mean steepness of the waves
.
Other source terms ( or 4).
Parametric tail of the spectrum.
Subestimation of periods due to the
increase of 2.

= = 2
2

 , = 1 +

5. Conclusions

= = 2
2

Fictitious dissipation of swell

The model dissipates more energy
than the corresponding one at low
frequencies.
Due to the dependence of on
the mean steepness of the waves
.
Subestimation of wave heights
with swells.

Dissipation model is invalid in

the presence of bimodal
spectra.

Presence of wind-sea

Swell (low )
Wind-sea (high )

5. Conclusions
Omission of various peaks associated with coastal
wind jets
Insufficient temporal
resolution of wind fields.

6. Recommendations
Update the prsent formulation of the dissipation model (Komen et al., 1984), with
= . and = .
Explore new dissipation models (avoid dependence of mean wave steepness):

Tolman and Chalikov (1996),

Ardhuin et al. (2010) i/o
Rogers et al. (2012).
Increase the temporal resolution of the wind fields (3 h).
Use longer simulation periods (2-3 months), statistically representative.

Improving wave forecasting in

the Catalan coast (WAM)
Adri Moya Ortiz
Tesina Octubre 2014

Snchez-Arcilla, Agustn
Gmez, Jess
Van Vledder, Gerbrant Ph.

Metodologia
Instrumentaci disponible

413900N,024912E
411648N,020824E
404312N,005848E

BS

Metodologia
Discretitzaci del domini
Dues malles anidades (flux dinformaci WM BS):

WM (Western Mediterranean): 196x119 (9 km)

BS (Balearic Sea): 168x173 (3 km)

WM

Metodologia
Rang de freqncia
Dacord amb el rang de freqncia dels registres de
les boies corresponents (0.030-0.625 Hz).
El model treballa amb escala logartmica
(adaptaci).

Inicialitzaci
Primera simulaci realitzada en mode cold start.
No sassumeix cap condici de contorn a la malla
WM.

Definici localitzacions de sortida

(boies)
El model interpola els espectres als punts desitjats
(no sn nodes de la malla).

Implementaci numrica (WAM)

El model est organitzat en tres programes:

PROPAGS: propagaci
(advecci) i refracci computada
utilitzant un first-order
upwinding scheme .
, ,
, ,
+

IMPLSCH: integraci implicita,

respecte del temps, de les
diferents fonts denergia.
, = + 4 +

Tota la fsica del model est continguda dins del programa Processing, on es duu a terme la
integraci del balan denergies.