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Presented

to the

LIBRARY

of the

UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO
by

PRO^SSOR

R. F. McRAE

H. R. H.

PRINCE NICOLA

I.

RETURNING IROM CHURCH

MOTORING IN THE
BALKANS
ALONG THE HIGHWAYS OF

DALMATIA, MONTENEGRO, THE

HERZEGOVINA AND BOSNIA
BY

FRANCES KINSLEY HUTCHINSON

Author of "Our Country Home"

WITH MAP AND OVER ONE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS

FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR

HODDER & STOUGHTON

LONDON
MCMX

LIERA;.Y

ICIIO

Ea

fit) MfStijtr

A. m, K.
THE INDEFATIGABLE TRAVELER, THE WELL INFORMED
SIGHT-SEER, THE ENTHUSIAS^^IC MOTORIST
EVEN AT THE AGE OF EIGHTY,
THIS RECORD IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED

CONTENTS
CHAPTER
I.

II.

III.

IV.

V.

VI.
VII.

VIII.

IX.

X.
XI.
XII.
XIII.

XIV.

XV.
XVI.
XVII.
XVIII.

XIX.

XX.
XXI.

Plans and Preliminaries

Trieste to Abbazia
Abbazia to Zengg

XXIII.

XXIV.

XXV.
XXVI.
XXVII.
XXVIII.

XXIX.

XXX.

Sebenico via Trau to Spalato

Spalato

47

58
66
79
95

loS

.....

Clissa
Source of the Jadro
Salona
Metkovic
to
Spalato
Metkovic to Ragusa

.......

Ragusa
Lapad
Lacroma
Ragusa
Ragusa
Ragusa to Zelenika
Zelenika

Entering Montenegro

1x6
123
137

145
155

164
175

....

183

189
201

Cetinje
Back into Dalmatia

Ragusa to

211

......

Entering the Herzegovina

Source of the Buna

Gacko to Mostar
Mostar
Mostar to Sarajevo

Gacko
.

Ilidze to Jajce via Travnik

Jajce

17

27

PAGE

38

Over the Vratnik Pass

Zengg to Gospic
Gospic to Zara
Entering Dalmatia
Zara
Falls of Krka
Sebenico
ScARDONA

VIA Trebinje

XXII.

....

222

232
242
251

264
276

On to Bosnisch-Novi
Jajce to Banjaluka
Plitvica Lakes
Leaving Bosnia

285

To Agram and Marburg

306

Marburg

....

Gratz ^The Semmering

Index

295

317
327

vu

ILLUSTRATIONS

.....
.....
.....
......
.....
.....
.....
.....

H. R. H. Prince Nicola I. Returning from Church, Cetinje

Cargo-boats from Chioggia
The Canal Grande, Trieste
The Royal Park of Miramar, near Trieste
The Mail Carrier's Horse, near Pasjak
A Native of Arbe at Abbazia
The Water Bucket of These Slavic Countries
The Hotel at Crkvenica

Frontispiece
22

Young Women Working

in

Quarry near Crkvenica

The Market-place, Zara

The Baskets are Beautifltl in Zara
The Riva Vecchia, Zabia
A Typical Costume, Scardona
A Brilliant Crowd, Scardona
The Ferry across the Krka
In

....

In the Market-place, Sebenico

The Rows of Heads on the Cathedral Apse, Sebenico
The Pleasant-looking Lions at the Cathedral Door, Seben ICO
The Stony Road to Trau

Such Tiny Caps!

Little Kid

The

........

Diocletian's Palace,

Main

Facade, Spalato

Corridors Converted into Streets, Spalato

Marketing in Spalato
Fortress of Clissa, near Spalato

23

30
31
31

40
41

63

68
69
84
85
85

90
91
91

100

100
lOI

108
.

....
.....

Countrywomen in Metkovic
With What Splendid Freedom She Walks (Ragusa)
The Green Omnibus to Gravosa

....
....
1

The Porta Pile, Ragusa

The Strips of Streets, Ragusa
A Typical Shop on the Stradone, Ragusa
Herzegovinian Women Shopping in Ragusa
The Old Harbor, Porto Casson, Ragusa.

109
118

119
124
125

146
146
147
147

......
.....
......
....

PiERO the Gull, Ragusa

A Dalmatian Funeral, Ragusa
The Moat Converted into a Park, Ragusa
The Hotel Square on the First of May, Ragusa
The Hotel at Zelenika
Tilted Rock Strata at Zelenika
IX

22

156
157
166
167

176
177

184
185

ILLUSTRATIONS- CONTINUED

........

Crossing the BoccnE

192

That Queer, Gigantic, Angular Writing on thk Face of the Mountai

"Individual" Harbors on the Shores of the Bocche
BOCCHE DI CaTTARO FROM GrOTTO OF KrST\C

.....

The Road to Montenegro

The Hotel at Njegus, Montenegro
Cetinje from the Hotel Window

....

H. R. H. Prince Nicola I., the Ruler of Montenegro

H. R. H. Princess Milena, Consort of Prince Nicola

The Struka

......
.....
.....
......
.......
.....
....
.....
.....
.....

199
199

204
I

205
20^)

Montenegrin Officers

207
2X2

The Roy.\l Palace, Cetinje

The Prince's Escort, Cetinje
The Government Barge

218

At Castelnuovo
The Younger Generation are Adopting European Clothes Trebinje
,

The Crowd at Bilek

A Picturesque Couple, Bilek
They Disappe.ar down the Long Road
The Garage at Gacko

Source of the Buna

The Bridge at Mostar
Herzegovinian Catholics, Mostar
After Service at the Franciscan Church, Mostar
The Men are Equally Picturesque, Mostar
Gorge of the Narenta
An Interesting Group in the Narenta Valley
Herzegovinian Children, near Jablanica.
One of the Fates! (On the Ivan Pass)
Wooden Spindles in the Museum, Sarajevo
The Prenj Alp
.

A View

in

Sarajevo

......
....

An Unexpected Meeting. Young Turkish Girls, Sarajevo

The Hotel at Ilidze
A Typical Country Mosque, near Gromeljak
The Painted Mosque, Travnik

Butterfly of a Maiden, Travnik

Tombs of the Viziers, Travnik
The Fountain by the Tombs, Travnik
The Ancient Poplar, near Travnik
The Bogomile Gravestone
A Christian Family of Bosnia
A Christian Farmhouse in Bosnia
The Tiny Mills of Jajce
The Pliva above the Fall
.

95

19S

219
224
225

228
228

229
238

239
248
249
249

252
253
253

258
258

259
260
261

268
269
269

270
271
271

272
272
273

273

276
276

ILLUSTRATIONS CONTINUED

......
........

The Gate of Jajce from the Outside

The Same Gate from the Inside
Turkish Women out for Their Weekly Promenade,
A Modern Shop at Jajce
.

Jajce

....

At the Entrance to the Franciscan Church, Jajce

In the Market-place after the Service, Jajce
The Beaded and Embroidered Coats in Jajce
Brave in Scarlet and Gold
With Coin Necklaces and Head-dresses
.

Bosnian Couple, Jajce

Peasants at Luncheon, Jajce

The Market-place, Agram

279
280

.281

........

Turkish Children, Jajce

Jajce to Banjaluka, up the Urbas Valley
The Conscription at Banjaluka
The Orange Vender, Banjaluka
A Sheepskin Coat, Banjaluka
A North Bosnian Costume, near Banjaluka
The Cap in the Back
The Cap in the Front
In the Una Valley
A Ruined Castle above the Una
The Plitvica Lakes from our Windows
One of the Plitvica Falls
Peasants near Karlovac
A Bosnian Mill
The Church of St. Mark, Agram

277

-277
.278
280
282
282
283
286
287

288
289

290

.....

291

292
293
293

296
297

300
301

310
310
311

Croatian Countrywomen
A Croatian Peasant

312
312
313

The Ilica, Agram

A Croatian Harness
The Procession at Marburg
The Market-place, Gratz

318
319
322

At the Semmering

323

318

XI

ITINERARY AND TABLE OF DISTANCES

1908

DATE

MOTORING

IN

THE BALKANS

MOTORING
THE BALKANS

IN

CHAPTER

PLANS AND PRELIMINARIES

"ILJOW

would you

like to

go

to

Dalmatia

this

year?"

quietly asked the Leader one rainy evening in early

Autumn, as we were planning our Winter migration. "Dal-

matia," he said, but other lands beside were in his mind,

Montenegro, the Herzegovina, Bosnia, Croatia. He apparently did not see our startled countenances nor hear our
explosive comments.

"Dalmatia!"

"In an automobile?"
^'Can we?"

Thus

in

varying pitches the

trio

simultaneously

an-

swered.

not?" was the

"Why
away nor
But

What
it

"It

reply.

is

certainly not so far

so difficult to reach."

me

to

it

seemed almost another

strange magic in the

sounded

What

name

visions of

How

planet.

Dalmatia!

remote and Asiatic

mountain fastnesses and land-

locked harbors, of curious buildings and primitive peoples,

danced before

my

excited fancy!
17

MOTORING
"You know

THE BALKANS

IN

narrow

that

strip of

country on the other

from Italy!" I came back to

surroundings and the expatiating

side of the Adriatic, across

a consciousness of
voice of the

my

Leader

favorite coast for

at the

same moment.

yachtsmen during the

the most northern city,

"
Trieste as Rimini is

is

**It

has been a

last century.

Zara,

about the same distance from

"Yes, by sea," interrupted the Cautious One, "but the

"
are they passable ? Has any one ever tried them ?
roads,

For the

spirit of the

pioneer

is

strangely absent from our

small group and some of the comforts of this

life

have become

necessities.

"Are

there any road

maps?" questioned

the Enthusiast

incredulously.

"I believe that there are some government maps to be

had, and the Italian Touring Club has also published a

map

of the northern portion of Dalmatia.

send over for them.

It is difficult to get

am

going to

any information about

the roads, but as there are few railroads the highways should

be in so
vestigate

much the better condition.

as we go along, making all

We

months,

if

for

The

in-

from

find ourselves blocked

May

I hear, as earlier there is too

mountain passes, while

have to

possible inquiries

any reason we
we can always turn back. April and
place to place

shall

later in the year

are the desirable

much snow on
it

the

gets very hot."

uncertainty of the journey promised to add to our

interest.

"But how do we
from?" queried

get into

Dalmatia?

Where do we

start

the Enthusiast, always desirous of details.

i8

PLANS AND PRELIMINARIES

"Well," answered the Leader of the expedition, "we
probably go from Paris via Nice, Rapallo, and Spezia;
Pisa, Siena, and Rome Temi, Foligno, Urbino, and Rimini

shall

Ravenna, Padua, Treviso, Udine, and Trieste; but

recommend

The

map

cannot

that as the shortest route!"

Enthusiast was following with her finger on a large

of Europe.

She reserved her comments, but her looks

spoke volumes.
"Trieste, of course,

is

the natural starting-point,"

went

on the indefatigable Leader, "but if we cross in January

we must find a good climate during February and March.
"
The Riviera
But there was a chorus of disapproval.

"Oh,

no! not the Riviera.

It 's far

too crowded, too dusty,

too gay!"

"If

should show you a quiet spot on a green hillside,"

"
a small hotel in a
composedly proceeded the Leader,
beautiful garden, an apartment where the sun floods every
room all day long, a cuisine both varied and tempting, would
the mere fact of
at least trying

We

its

being on the Riviera dissuade you from

such a place ?"

protested our unbelief, but meekly consented to a

happened that in due time we went down to

Cimiez on the hills above that too-famous winter resort of

trial.

So

it

Nice and spent three never-to-be-forgotten weeks exploring

the winding river valleys, hunting

up neglected and

half-

ruined monasteries, discovering (?) splendid gorges and

many a

hill-crowned city, along those smooth and shady

highways which make the land of France dear to the heart

of the motor lover.
It was almost as difficult to persuade
19

MOTORING
us to leave as

it

THE BALKANS

IN

had been

to

induce us to try this

bit of

Paradise, but the days were flying and Dalmatia loomed

before us.

We

had by

this

time secured large

maps with

curiously

forbidding names printed upon them; "Crkvenica, Otocac,

should we ever
Mali Halan, Benkovac, Metkovic, KLrka";

be able to pronounce them? Would they ever become

familiar and easy? We were reading Mrs. Hohlbach's

charming book on Dalmatia, and also a French translation

This
of a German "Guide to Dalmatia" by Petermann.

on the pronunciation of the

Serbo-Croatian language with a glossary of the most imporWhen we learned
tant words that a traveller might need.

last

book gave us a few

rules

that in pronouncing the Slavic

to

remember four

pronounced
like tch:

without accent

the vowels the

formed that

and

same as

it

is

felt

only necessary

so helpless:

like ts:

in Italian.

j is

with accent

We

were

in-

towns Italian or German would be

in the large

most of the hotels English could

upon, but in the hamlets of the interior and on the

readily understood

be relied

we no longer

rules,

like y:

names

road only Slavic

Of our

is

at

used.

delectable journeyings from the sunny Riviera

over the mountains to Spezia and across the plain to Pisa;

famous Delia Robbias of Empoli of our

Siena and Viterbo; this is not the place to

of our glance at the

brief stops

speak.

at

Even Rome, which served

pied-a-terre for

upon.

many a

this

time as a mere

day's excursion, I dare not begin

Of Cori and Ninfa and

Segni, of Palestrina

and San

Cosimato, of the nearer Tivoli and the Alban Hills,

20

my

PLANS AND PRELIMINARIES

enthusiastic descriptions

must wait

for

Dalmatia

than ever and the time has come for us to

Up by

is

nearer

start.

the fortress of Civita Castellana, with a look at

the Cascades of Terni,

we pass Nocera, Gualdo Tadino, and

Cagh, cross the Apennines and stop

at Urbino, Pesaro,

and

Rimini, having followed the old Via Emilia almost the endistance from

tire

Rome.

Proceeding via Ravenna, Rovigo,

and Padua; Treviso, Udine, and Aquileia; at last, on the

ninth of April, we look down from Obcina upon the great
seaport of Trieste.

The combination

much

that

is

delight to the

of old customs

and

traditions with

extremely modern makes this city of Austria a

tourist.
We knew from our faithful Baedeker

that our hotel here stood

upon

the quay, but no guide-book

could prepare one for the fascinating picture which the win-

dow

revealed as

we entered our apartment.

Black-hulled

steamers from Palermo, from Dalmatia, from France, England,

and even from America, lay

at

anchor on the

glittering

sea, while bright-hued Venetian boats unloaded their queer

cargoes at the near embankment.

the

I leaned in ecstasy

upon

window-sill thoughtfully provided with cushions for

tired elbows,

and watched the changing scene.

Freighters

and trim passenger boats, their masts and yards so

much more picturesque than the huge funnels of the modern

arrived

from Capodistria came jauntily to the

dock and unloaded her passengers, who walked ashore with
steamer.

ferry

brisk, business-like, almost

American

alertness, apparently

heedless of the rare and beautiful sight presented by this

hill-encircled city, brilliant

with the brief sunshine of the

21

MOTORING
early Spring.

From

THE BALKANS

IN

the distance a big liner signalled with

flying colors, calling a tiny tug that slowly guided the

to her berth aniidst the

moving

But no steamer, big or

monster

craft.

can compare in picturesqueness or in grace with the gayly colored cargo-boats from
little,

Chioggia, their orange and brown sails patched in varying tones, their stripes of green or red or blue around the

clumsy

hulls,

their

big round eyes and slanting yards,

their billowy sails, spread to the soft south

wind or hanging

limp against the mast or draped in wonderful folds to dry.

The morning light only strengthened our pleasing impressions.

a long

From a market-boat at an
procession of women with

In the distance appeared a sailing

adjacent quay, marched

baskets on their heads.
vessel,

her shining can-

vas turned to silver in the glowing sun.

and funnels extended on

my

but

my

either side

of

forest of

masts

vantage post;

particular interest lay in the doings of the fasci-

nating port shut in by the

Molo San Carlo and

named Number Four.

prosaically

One

the

more

boat was loading

telegraph poles, one large stone slabs, several had a pen-

chant for bricks, and even sand was not disdained.

men were

Two

carrying hand-barrows of sand from the ship's

hold to a pile some twenty feet away.

wondered why they

once into the queer-shaped wicker wagons,

which stood near, waiting to receive it; but I suppose that

did not put

it

at

belongs to another

class

of

labor!

The

waiting oxen,

crouched in quiet contemplation of this busy scene,

me

reminded

of their appearance in the creches or presepi, those rep-

resentations of the Nativity so dear to the hearts

22

of Italy.

'*-

CARCIO-HOAIS FROM CHIOGCIA

CANAL GRANDE, JRIESJE

H
w

PLANS AND PRELIMINARIES

A

gray coasting steamer with a beautiful green water-

poked its sharp nose deftly between the larger craft in

the crowded waters, and ran alertly alongside the quay, bearline

"

ing an interesting group of humanity.

I thought,

ket day,"

the busy throng.

and

It

my

seizing

must be mar-

It

kodak,

plunged into

was market day, and the market was

beside a wonderful canal lined with gayly painted ships.

The heaps
sails,

of oranges

and country

and lemons repeated the

folk in full short skirts, with shawl

knitted scarf, completed the picture.

costumed men flashed by

and

trio of brilliantly

"

Dalmatians

They looked

"snap" them

that I dared not

fierce

me from the quay.

I heard, as I turned to follow them.

and

colors of the

openly.

"
!

so big

Their

wide leathern belts were stuffed with what seemed to be

weapons

of war;

I say

''seemed to be," for I afterwards

commodious pouches were not

carry anything more dangerous than smoking

learned that those vast and

allowed to
utensils.

was no

Certainly to the superficial observer the array

A quaint old lady stepped into the

less intimidating.

market-place looking as
frame.

Her dark blue

gathered fulness,

if

she had

come out

of a picture

had no gores taken from its

her black velvet cape was trimmed with a
skirt

deep netted fringe, over which was draped a black neckerchief brocaded with green flowers, and on her head she wore
a black kerchief whose large magenta peonies outshone the

blossoms of every booth.

"Do

you

realize

familiar voice at

that

I started to follow
it

is

when

breakfast time?" asked a

my elbow; "and

Trieste to-day, and Miramar?"

22,

her

that

we

are going to see

MOTORING
Of

course

THE BALKANS

IN

wc climbed up

the

none-too-sweet-

steep,

smelling streets of the old city to the

"Arco

di Ricardo,"

whose huge blocks of stone told its Roman origin.

"Why Ricardo?" asked the tireless seeker after

infor-

mation.

"After
tradition,

Richard

Caur

de

according to

Lion, who,

was imprisoned here on

his return

from Pales-

tine."
I

always accept traditions absolutely,

tory so

much more

much more

interesting

and

So

like real people.

picturesque hero of mediaeval

it

it

makes

the personages

was easy

to

his-

seem so

imagine that

history languishing behind

barred and narrow windows, catching an occasional glimpse

of the blue Adriatic
cast
his

which half

in playfulness

one night had

him away upon Lacroma's rocks. What an impression

personality must have made upon these people that

they rededicated to

Roman

him

this

half-hidden remnant of a

triumphal arch!

There are museums

and modern

Trieste containing antiquities

in

treasures, but the chief

in her out-of-doors, and here

lanes and stone-paved

charm

of the city lies

we wandered through narrow

courts,

by busy streets and sunny

work and play. We

squares, watching the people at their

climbed the steep paved way to the cathedral at the castle

walls.

The

present church

was evolved

in the fourteenth

century by combining three sixth century edifices built on

the site of a

and

also

Roman

some

temple.

The tombstones

in the fagade,

of the inscriptions in the squatty belfry, were

exceedingly curious.

From

the terrace the view over the

24

PLANS AND PRELIMINARIES

city

and the

sea,

through flowering peach orchards, was

enchanting in color and outline.

About

five miles to the

sea, is the royal

northwest of Trieste, close to the

Chateau of Miramar, situated

a beau-

in

park which is freely thrown open to the public. Imagine a garden of flowers and vines and shrubs of fountains
tiful

and pools and pergolas;

benches and statuary,
beautiful.

of trees

but

no

At the time of our

to blossom,

and when

and hedges;

grass.

visit

It is

of stone

wonderfully

the wistaria

was

just

purple tassels fall

through

the open lattice of the encircling arbors the effect

must be

ready

magical.

The

its

laurustinus starred the copses, the genista

beginning to shine in yellow glory.

Hyacinths and

was
for-

get-me-nots, tulips, jonquils, and calceolarias in the box-

edged formal garden were brilliant and

swans swimming lazily back and forth in

effective.

Black

this cool retreat

begged us for tidbits.

On a small esplanade half-way up the cliff, four or five
baby cannon pointed seaward, and beneath the pines the
view was exquisite, either towards the castle or over the
blue Adriatic.

thought of Maximilian and his pleasure

making this splendid estate from the stony hillside. I

wondered whether in the stormy stress of his life in the new
in

world his heart did not sometimes ache with longing for the
quiet of this beautiful home; and a picture of the desolate
field at

Queretaro, where he was shot, came forcibly to

my

mind.
In turning away,

almost touched a

looked up fearlessly, and, in no

25

way

little

bird which

disturbed by our pres-

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

ence or our movements, hopped unconcernedly about with

a touching trustfulness

volumes

for the constant

this royal

domain.

in the

human

being which spoke

stream of visitors drifting through

This beautiful confidence was the more

noticeable in contrast with Italy, where every bird, big or

"
''
little, is so much
game for the ardent sportsman.

26

CHAPTER

II

TRIESTE TO ABBAZIA

\X7'E had

looked forward to Trieste as the place where

we

could doubtless obtain definite information in regard

to the roads

Here

tia.

and conveniences

at its

door we

of

motor

the trip.

We

Dalma-

should probably find better

more guide-books, and possibly some

made

travelling in

friendly soul

maps,

who had

did learn that there were about twenty-

automobiles owned in the city and that within the

five

fortnight four

motor cars had preceded us

This was encouraging.

last

into Dalmatia.

might as well
be stated here that we never saw any of these adventurous
tourists in ail our wanderings, and heard of only one of them
Perhaps, however,

that penetrated as far south as Zelenika.

it

Here, after one

glance at the "ferry" across the Bocche di Cattaro, he

shipped his car back to Trieste by steamer and took the next
boat himself.
Trieste

is

so purely a seaport, that she seems to scorn

acquaintance with inland communication, and no road

of

any

maps

any kind of Istria or Croatia, of Dalmatia or Montenegro,

of the Herzegovina or Bosnia were to be found. Doubtless this

will

be remedied as the demand increases; for the western

Balkan Provinces are sure

the

happy hunting grounds

to

become, in the near future,

of the motorist.

But

at the

bookshops, the bankers', the hotels, they looked upon us at

this time as

half-demented folk to attempt a tour in Dalmatia

27

MOTORING
by automobile instead
means of locomotion

THE BALKANS

IN

of keeping to the

well-known and

tried

the steam-boat.

had been the

It

to preface

secretly cherished desire of our

our Dalmatian journeyings with a

Leader

bit of the old

Could anything be more beguiling than

the descriptions of Pirano surrounded by olive groves above
the bay, or Capodistria's cathedral and Palazzo Pubblico or
peninsula of

Istria.

Parenzo with

its

sixth century church, or

high-lying campanile,

Amphitheatre and
frieze

and above

Rovigno with its

Pola, with its famous

all

Roman Temple

"

erected in B. C. 19,

in excellent preservation"!

still

But upon

ney authorities were unanimously agreed.

if

you

will,

by

rail if

its

this jour-

''By steamer

you must, but not by automobile.

The

roads are so dreadful that most motorists have turned back."

Mud

and

narrow ways and steep heights, short turns

and frightened peasantry,
everything bad and nothing
good was said of it! While not believing all this we restones,

luctantly decided, in view of the long journey before us, to

somewhat uncertain expedition until another time.

Suppose we stop at Abbazia for a few days before

leave this

"

plunging into the darkness of Dalmatia?" quizzically asked

knowing that a comfortable hotel between the

mountains and the sea delighted the heart of his companion.
the Leader,

''It is

"

but a short detour from our road."

With a garden,

too, the

guide-book says," she added

joyously.

So leaving the gay city of Trieste, we climbed the heights

above it, enjoying delightful view^s over Muggia and Istria

and the deep blue bays

of the Adriatic.
28

Up

and down the

TRIESTE TO ABBAZIA
rolling surface of the high plateau

new mountain range one

we bowled, and

at

each

would exclaim: "Is that

of us

But a negative nod was all that we received

from the figure on the front seat busily engaged in watching

Dalmatia?"

the

new roads and changing

Women in groups were

scenes.

walking briskly along the highway, a huge basket of marketing lightly poised on each sleek head, big milk cans slung
over their shoulders, and a broad smile of

sympathetic

enjoyment on their heavy features as they slowly turned

and watched us.

''What have they

"Every one has

Content.

"It

is

an

What

is

the

same thing."

answered the Enthusiast

olive branch,"

"To-morrow

hands?" asked Madame

their

in

quietly.

Palm Sunday."

a desolate country!

Only an occasional farm-

house, or here and there a copse of pines breaks the monotony

On

of the rock-covered plain.

our

left

the

Gran Kapella

range of Croatian mountains are covered with snow;

here there

is

no sign of water, neither

except an occasional

muddy

reservoir

river,

brook, nor well,

by the

side of the road.

Dotted among the rocks, at irregular

crater-like pits of varying sizes, into

washed the

alluvial soil;

but

intervals, are curious

which the rain has

and wherever these moist hollows

occur the grass grows vividly green, in sharp

dreary grayness of the landscape.

These oases

relief to the

in the desert

are the only possible places where crops can be raised.

Later on, the road climbs high

small

hills

and winds through

hamlets whose names are generally conspicuously

posted in two languages.

At Castelnuovo there
29

is

actually

MOTORING
an

inn,

"Narodni Dom."

accident and here

tumes.

THE BALKANS

IN

we

We

see

first

note

some

carefully in case of

it

of the pretty native cos-

sky-blue, knee-length full skirt

trimmed with a

broad white band, white blouse and stockings, sandals, a red

cap, and fichu form a combination both patriotic and gay!

The names

become more

of the villages

Racice, Pasjak, and before

we reach

Slavic,

Pasjak, just below the

top of the pass a gorgeous panorama unfolds

tains

and islands and

Ostrogoths, look
of

this height,

two hundred thousand men,

marched from Moesia

Was

it

itself of

Did Theodoric, king

sea.

down from

Hrusica,

mounof the

when with an army

and goods, he
Italy in 489 A. D. ?

their families

for the conquest of

across this very region that in the sixth century the

Lombards swept when

led

by Alboin they poured down mur-

upon the Roman city of Tergeste? Surely over that snowy mountain range the Slavs
and Avars advanced in that singular "wandering of the

derous hordes over the

cliflEs

tribes" of the seventh century.

But
jerk,

my thoughts were
for,

brought back to the present with a

turning a sudden corner,

we met a

mail-carrier's

His horse plunged and snorted with terror at sight

of our car.
Of course we stopped and the men rushed to

cart.

by this time the horse had jumped over the

stone wall and was drawn back on his haunches by the
the rescue, but

cart

which remained

partially in the road.

the post-man held onto the reins with

time the terrified animal was pacified.

all his

We

another in dismay and wondered whether

Dalmatia were going

to

behave
30

all

like this one!

Fortunately

might and in
looked at one
the horses in

r~

b(

XATRE OF ARBE AT ABBAZIA

THE WATER BUCKET OF THESE SLAMC COUXIRIES

TRIESTE TO ABBAZIA
Over the summit

down

coasted

again

of the pass

Sapjane

but a short distance beyond began an-

Counts of Gorizia attempted

to

their

own

to divert the

ports of

and

Triestini rose in their wrath

in

at

In the fifteenth century when the Venetians and

other pass.

interior

we bowled and

commerce

Muggia and

of the

Pirano, the

fortified these

very passes

a struggle to keep by force their commercial privileges.

Now

the road

is

maintained in good condition for

artillery

and leads through forests of young oaks into Croatia.

A girl, with a mountain basket on her back, passed

Then a group
skirts

of

women

in native costumes.

us.

This time the

were black with a red band and short enough to show

the white skirts below

the black sleeveless jacket

with red opened over a white blouse

The whole had a charming

Near

made with

trimmed

full sleeves.

effect.

Spincici, sixty-eight kilometers

from Trieste, we

stopped again for the view. Far below us, the rock-girt island
of Cherso extended

its

narrow length;

to

the

right

the

houses of Abbazia lay white against the sea; and Monte

Maggiore,
lines,

arms.

its

summit tipped with snow,

seeming to
The

hold the

little

rose in graceful long

village in its protecting

coast beyond jutted into the water in a series of

projecting points, small islands detached themselves in the

and

Canale di Farasina a ship under

full sail cast
exquisite reflections on the glassy sea.
At Castua we left the highway, which went on to Fiume,

scattering haze,

in the

and began the descent

to Abbazia.

The island of Veglia came

we passed the extensive stone quarries of Preluka.

Then we wound down bend after bend of the stony road,
in sight as

31

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

very narrow and very steep.

gullies

were placed to carry

learn that this senseless

is

off

At short distances diagonal

the water.
Later we were to

and very uncomfortable arrangement

The

a favorite method with Croatian roadmakers.

were clothed with pine forests and

peach-trees were bursting into blossom.

sides

hill-

in sheltered corners

As we swung

the long street of Abbazia, the horse chestnuts lining

it

into

tossed

flowery bells upon us, and the sails of the fishing boats in the

harbor nodded a bright welcome.

What

richness of coloring!
is

How

What

beautiful!

pictures at every turn!

So

this

Abbazia!

There

is

a charming shore walk built against the crags

and sheltered by twisted pines leading to Icici and Ika,

which tempted us forth that day after the showers. The
Croatian Alps loomed mysteriously out of the early twilight,

and

far in the distance, faintly outlined in the gray,

rose the rocky islets of

ance

close

by

The

birds were!

less the

had made
us,

and

the Dalmatian coast.

Italian storno

in a villa near

my

How

fear-

whose acquaint-

Rome

sang his sweet song

Miramar jewel fluttered down from the

up a tidbit in the path.

Another day we took a walk up into

tangle to pick

the paths are

marked

hills,

where

all

in different colors, with guide-posts

at the puzzling corners

"Zu den

the

and distances measured by time!

Kaiser Franz Josef's Anlagen,

min."

On

the

Jurasevo Ulica the blue lobelia and the low pinkish mint

from under the thick barberry

bushes, big chestnuts towered above the evergreen laurel,
the elms on the southern slope of the hill were painting it a
pushed

their bright flowers

32

TRIESTE TO ABBAZIA
delicate green, the spiky smilax looked delicate
until

you touched

its

end

make

effective as

The method

tern.

"Even

ast.

About

fectly dry."

our

it is

own more

conventional pat-

Tie the bush on the

ready for use.

made," commented the Enthusi-

are well

after the

And by

the finest, most picturesque

so simple, too.

is

of a pole and, behold!

"These paths

sensitive

sharp and unyielding leaves.

the way, this plant does

brooms, quite as

and

heavy rains of

five feet

wide, of

last

night they are per-

fine,

well-packed gravel,

they wind by easy grades along the flowery hillsides and

each new viewpoint a comfortable bench invites to rest.

"Look

Enthusiast a

moment

later

"they are really

you suppose they would care

"
it

in

The poor things!

"

hill," cried the

coming up the

at those peasants

if

exclaimed

And

these

flat

women,

wooden
their

kodaked them?"

Madame

Content.

barrels, strapped
skirts

Do

in costume.

be coal they are carrying on their backs?"

cumbersome

at

Coal

"
it

Can
was,

on their backs!

tucked up, were actually

laughing and chatting as they mounted the steep ascent, bent

nearly double beneath their loads.

To

such an extent can

habit harden one!

On

the

promenade

of this fashionable watering place, a

much

ings thrown into strong relief

by her orange stockby her full, dark blue skirt

reaching barely to the knee.

The

portly peasant attracted

basque came down

six

attention

pale blue, tight-fitting

inches below her waist,

making a

frill

over the hips, thus accentuating their already dispropor-

around her neck lay a wide frill of white netting,

and her head was covered with a scarlet turban, one end of

tionate size

33

MOTORING
which hung

THE BALKANS

IN

wide sash to her waist.

in a flat

She was truly a

gorgeous sight and the fashion plates paled before her.

About

Lovrana,

miles beyond Abbazia

five

another winter resort,

fashionable, perhaps, than

less

neighbor but with pretty

walks on the

is

hillsides.

The

and movement.

villas

Her

tiny

her frivolous

by the sea and charming

harbor was alive with color

the fishermen seemed to

swayed in the gentle breezes and

have leisure to spin endless yarns as

they sat on the sand and

mended

sails

their

brown

We

nets.

fol-

lowed a band of wandering musicians to watch the street

children dance in an abandon of joyous passion to the deep
notes of an old trombone.

In this diversion, at

least, all

nations join in sympathy and racial difficulties are

momen-

tarily forgotten.

I think

it

must have been a native from the island of

Arbe

whom we

main

street in

met one morning walking rapidly down the

Abbazia, carrying somebody's carefully pre-

Her

apron trimmed with

white lace almost covered her dark skirt and reached just
pared dinner.

below her knee.

long, red-figured

Black shoes and stockings protected her

liberal proportions,
tight-fitting sleeves,

and her bright blue figured basque, with

added the proper amount of color to her

She had chosen a black velvet fringed kerchief

for her head, with but a narrow border of those gay brocaded

costume.

flowers so dear to the heart of the mountaineer.

How

soft,

dark eyes! With what splendid

Truly one sacrifices something to be

yet brilliant were her large

freedom she walked!

civilized

Perhaps

it

was

this train of

34

thought which prompted the

TRIESTE TO ABBAZIA
Gentle Lady, one cloudy morning, to exclaim unexpectedly,

am

"I

We

terribly tired of 'Tag'-ing people!"

her;

we sympathized with
Western

for there

did seem, to our

The

ideas, a plethora of politeness.

takes off his cap and

times a day

elevator

makes an elaborate bow when we

at our floor, breaking into '^Guten Tag,^^

many

laughed, but

we

ride

boy

arrive

no matter how

A maid disappear-

up and down.

ing around a corner in the corridor does not forget to send

an explosive ^^Guten Tag'' echoing down the long expanse.

The

who

waiter

passes you, the porter busy at his desk, the

errand boy at his manifold duties, never

Tag.''

It is all

but this

is

very well
It

impossible.

demands

sively satisfies the

^'Guien
it,

would be the height of rudeness

Fortunately a plain

not to respond.

fails to

we might accept and ignore

if

''

Tag'^ uttered explo-

of etiquette,

and

if

on. enter-

ing or leaving a shop, I forget the magic formula, a gentle

poke from Madame Content never fails to bring it forth.

''What a queer-shaped under part that desk chair has!"
the Enthusiast exclaimed casually one day, as from the sofa
where she was lounging she contemplated the Gentle Lady,
at her diary.

busy

"Yes?" remarked

"What do you
tent

One.

just

Hke

made

The

the latter absently.

suppose

it is

for?" continued the Persis-

"See that other one

it!

that

Why,

way

they're

to kneel

all

upon

if

at the dressing table is

Perhaps they were

used for a church service."
alike!

Enthusiast was thinking aloud.

"They

hardly project enough for that," remarked the

Gentle Lady, turning around to inspect hers more closely.

35

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

"Well, perhaps they were meant

is

not pretty.

are certainly

They

draughty.

for foot-rests

if

the lloor

look

They

just like bootjacks."

Of

"Bootjacks!

''That

time fully interested.

this

The Gentle Lady was by

course."

is

just

what they

used to find those queer mediaeval articles

Germany,

in

arc.

my room

in

who

all

remember."

''Why, yes, they must be for the army

wear boots.

officers

quite a sensible idea to have every chair

It is

a bootjack!"

"Do
in

fast

you suppose we shall ever have to order our breakSlavic?" asked the Enthusiast anxiously.
'Tt 's

pretty long."

"How does it sound ?"

"
'

Of

Rather odd.

quizzically

course

make

demanded
it

the Leader.

as simple as possible.

Coffee with milk, bread and butter, one egg boiled four

minutes.
cetiri

Kafa

minut.^

"

sa

miljeko, hljcb

I finished

maslo, jedan jaje rovita

amid peals

of laughter

and the

commiserating glances of

my companions.
have a chance to use that carefully
prepared sentence," encouraged the Leader, "but I would
not waste time learning any more."
"I do hope you

"Oh,
sure I

just

one more," insisted the Enthusiast.

may want

to

where, and really

ova

selo?'

first

will

Say

it

ask the
it 's

fast

name

of a village or a flower

such a neat phrase.

and

it

"I

'

Kako

feel

some-

sc zove

sounds quite Italian except the

word."

We

are amused, now,

when we think

36

of our elaborate

TRIESTE TO ABRAZIA
preparations, our forchodinji^s, our flouhts and our fears.

must confess

tliat

these were confined to

tlie

feminine camp,

the other side was far too sensible for misgivings, and only
filled

vvilh

pleasurable expectation

journey into the wilds of Dalmatia.

37

in

contemplating our

CHAPTER

III

ABBAZIA TO ZENGG

TT

Abbazia that we bade a long farewell to our

big trunks and sent them to await us in Vienna. For
thenceforth the baggage of our entire party was to be

was

at

limited to such as

Our

car

was

and a Cape

H. P. with a double phaeton body

hood and carried ninety litres of gasoline

cart

two extra

tins of twelve litres

each strapped

In Trieste the Leader had made arrangements

side.

to have tires forwarded

ceipt of a telegram, so

Two

the automobile.

of 28/32

in the tank with

on the

we could stow away on

by parcel-post

we took only

to

any point on

re-

three extra ones with us.

good-sized trunks were strapped on behind, the hat-

box slipped within the tires, and the night things packed
huge sack which was placed in the tonneau.
Dressed in cloth

suits

and waterproofs we

in

started

ofif

amid discouraging reports about roads, after heavy rains,

but with immense determination and a large stock of enthusiasm.

How

bay and the

lovely

was the view back over Abbazia, the

islands streaked with sunlight as

we climbed

windy morning on the first stage of our

journey toward Dalmatia! The air was mild; but the
the

hill

that

roads, sticky after the rains, degenerated into deep holes

at

Fiume.

Bumping and

and water, sometimes

in

splashing through seas of

mud

dangerous proximity to great vans

loaded with coal or stone or hogsheads of wine, we labored

38

ABBAZIA TO ZENGG
by the wharves and soon

rolled

smoothly over the pavement

government building and park. A

on a height beyond Fiume presented an effec-

of stone slabs before the

ruined castle
tive picture,

guide-posts.

proach

we were

but

Oh!

more or

looking,

one

in the distance

is

less openly, for

seen.

We

ap-

"UDragU4K."

We

search the

name; perhaps

in vain for

maps
it

is

"Dragu"

or any similar

too small a place to be mentioned,

perhaps it has another name entirely in Hungarian, for

no two words could be more dissimilar than Fiume and
Rjeka,

yet

they are one and the same

culty of having at least

we soon

The

way

*'We have

is

know them

to

names

distinct

was universal

discovered,

only

two

in this

This

city.

for

diffi-

each town,

Balkan region.

both.

now, the one seaport of Hungary,"

remarked the Leader, " and should soon be in Croatia."

Even

seen,

as he spoke

we

crossed the ravine where flows the

stream which has always been the boundary of the Croatian

kingdom.
Passing under the railroad which connects Fiume with

Agram, we climb a steep grade, thankful that the road is

The lilacs are budding, and the April morning seems
dry.
quite like our
this time

own

springtime.

Another guide-post, but

without a directing finger!

"USasak2K."
As

We

this is

a suburb of Fiume,

mount a

into Draga.

"u"

evidently

means "to."

and go down one equally vertical

The hawthorn hedges are in blossom and in

fearful grade

39

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

on the sunny

this sheltered valley vines are trained

The road
with

its

resembles nothing so

There

and downs.

steep ups

ing but the track

is fairly

plums and almonds,

much

worn.

cherries

slopes.

as a scenic railway

is

no attempt

at grad-

Fruit-trees are in blossom,

and peaches.

little

chap

herding sheep by the wayside, terrified at sight of us, forgets

his precious charges
until

we have

and rushes

Near *'U Bakar

passed.

the lovely view over the

sea,

into a cave to hide his face

surrounded by high

Bay

of Buccari.

K." we stop for

It is like an inland

hills cultivated in terraces to

the top,

amidst which nestle the clustered houses of Meja and Dolmali.

steamer with rippling wake

slips noiselessly

the town of Bakar, or Baccari, which, crowned by

toward

its

church

At the
from the water's edge.
foot of the long descent the Hotel Jadran on the quay seems
so neat and inviting that we are tempted to alight.
Indeed,
spire, rises in soft rose tints

the whole town

is

across the water

conspicuously well-kept and we look back

many

times to

its

attractive situation

upon

the sheltering slopes.

but our

''Kraljevica" says the next guide-post,

scorn these high-sounding syllables.

maps

small boy by the

roadside points straight ahead in response to our raised eye-

brows and
differs

gesticulations;

from him and

speak only Croatian,

and we

discover,

insists

but an approaching teamster

on the other cross-road.

but their meaning

later on, that

both are

is

Thry

unmistakable,

right, as the

two

roads soon become one.

On

a commanding point where the Bay of Buccari joins

the sea, stands a square mediaeval castle built

40

by the Frangi-

\
/

li

**ii

THE HOTEL AT CRKVE.NTCA

-f;

u
X

y.

X
y.

y.

ABBAZIA TO ZENGG
is its

protected
lish

Re

Porto

pani.

an arsenal

is

name

the

of the settlement

harbor that Napoleon had intended to estab-

Now, however,

here.

modernized, painted yellow, and

High above

Jesuits.

is

due time we come

in

the castle has been

used by the Society of

we obtain a

it

blue mountains above azure water.

hard and

and so well

panorama of
The roads are dry and
splendid

to Kraljevica, a

common-

place collection of scattered houses.

Continuing our journey, the canal of Maltempo, separating the rocky gray plateau of the island of Veglia from the

mainland, soon appears below us, and, beyond, fjord-like

basins ghsten, ships look like toys upon the water, and the
guide-posts begin to be

marked "Crkvenica."

Past Suriki

and Smokovo and Klanfari we descend, midst fruit and

grain farms, pastures and olive groves, down and ever down
toward the rippling
before the big

Crkvenica.

upon

sea.

It is

nearly noon

when we

stop

Therapia Palace Hotel on the outskirt of

Here

it is

really

warm.

The sun pours down

the long pier, the bath houses, the avenue of kiri-trees

along the beach, the music pavilion, and the newly laid out

gardens of the hotel.

Although this is a favorite resort of the Croatians, there

were not many people in the house. We had an excellent
luncheon and were interested ui noting the difference in
customs between this and other lands. For instance, it
looked a
to

see

trifle

odd

to us,

provincial as we

are, perhaps,

prim, elderly, very proper-looking ladies enjoying

their after-dinner cigarette

even the clergyman's wife join-

ing them, quite unconscious of the

41

commotion she was

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

creating in the minds of those "singular Americans."

From

beneath the lowered awnings, we looked upon the fishingsmacks drifting lazily on the wide Morlacca, a scattering

and a passing steamer going

very quiet and restful. Three

village outlining the near shore,

across to Veglia.

It

was

all

hours can do wonders for tired senses and we renewed our

journey with

zest.

"Gasoline?
with

go

Why

you," the

certainly,

up

the Vinodol.
"

porter insisted,

I will

and show you the

way."

What a charming

little

valley

we ran

one of

into, this

dancing stream, a rustic bridge, overhanging

oaks, young elms in winged blossom, and people so gay, so
Vinodol!

Imagine women being gay when carrying baskets

of rocks from a quarry to a wagon!
Imagine being on good
terms vdth life on thirty-two cents a day! Imagine women
friendly!

who

really

seem

to

enjoy the making of

One

roads!

balanced a heavy table on her head as she climbed the

tiny child of five running beside her already

dle strapped

upon her back,

hill.

had her bun-

in imitation of her elders.

Here

where we bought the gasoline, we found that the

overseer had been in America; he had worked in the mines
at the mill

of

West Virginia and Pennsylvania, he

home

again, very

much looked up

to,

said.

Now

he was

evidently, as a travelled

personage.

Returning to the

the picturesque water front.

its

many

The

iron rings for mooring

Row-boats and

stone

we paused to see
embankment with

was a

delight to watch.

village of Crkvenica,

sail-boats, fishing-boats

42

and market-boats,

ABBAZIA TO ZENGG
and even an occasional steam-boat, made enough

ferry-boats

color to run the

gamut of the spectroscope.

Speeding onwards over an ancient five-arched

a castle of the
light as the

sun touches the

sea, the valley,

tain peaks with slender, swiftly

moving

follows the water, although high above

on fishermen
seine with

in small boats

its

pause to look

bridge, past

Frangipani, we catch wonderful

wooden

and on
Is

floats.

Our

route

and we look down

in

a huge

tunny fishing?

They

shore,
it

of

and the moun-

fingers.

it,

efifects

up with flashing smiles as we

drawing

fly

by.

We climb

by a steep ascent over a neck of land, and on the other side,

How favorfar below us, appears the tiny harbor of Novi.
ably this ravishing drive compares with the famous Cornice

Opalescent mountains
base

lies

and

the

town of Novi

in

At their

scurrying clouds.

reflect the

shades of mellow brown, roofs

walls one blended whole

an

blue or

occasional

green door, delicately distinct, only emphasizing the general

tone.

from the water's edge,

Up

rise all the city streets.

in startled

and

dry,

wonder as

if

in long flights of steps,

The women rub their eyes and blink

we sweep by them. The road is firm

somewhat narrow, and

it is

remarkable that not

a wagon have we passed to-day. But what need of wagons

or animals to draw them when the women are such beasts

burden?

We

she staggering
meet one "happy pair,"
under an enormous load of fagots, he carrying the axe
of

Still

to the
try

following the convolutions of the coast,

Karst again.

The Karst has been

defined as

we climb
"

a coun-

covered with loose splintered rocks which the land

'grows' faster than they can be picked

43

off

it,

although the

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

more ground

from field cover

great heaps that divide field

than they leave exposed for cultivation." How precious one

to
square mile of this dreary waste would be, transported
stoneless

the

prairies

America where the occasional

of

and the only

from the banks of streams and

gravel pit proves a gold-mine to

is

road-dressing procurable

its

discoverer

lakes!

there

is

too

Karst

in Croatia the

However,

much

of

fails to

be appreciated

Between barren boulders the sheep

it.

search industriously for food

bit of genista

hangs out

its

there is not a
yellow banner from beneath a projecting crag
tree in sight,
only sage-brush and the endless ruin of the
;

Suddenly below us shines a deep inlet of the

and as we cross the promontory we pause on the ridge

jagged rocks.
sea,

to enjoy the

Dark

backward view.

upon dancing water and

the sky, casting weird shadows

side,

our road appears, a narrow dust-colored

Crossing this
tion,

calves, nibbling at

car in dazed fearlessness.

tected on the two

walls

we come upon

last barrier

green almond-trees grow on the

young

and

sides

an

signs of habita-

southern terraces,

invisible herbage,

line.

surround our

platform near the road

is

pro-

whence blows the Bora by high stone

in the centre bears that great blessing of the Orient,

a deep cool well.

We

are nearing Senj, Segna, or Zengg,

now, and soon catch sight of

"And

cas-

Before us, wandering up the bare gray

tellated islands.

mountain

clouds are rushing over

the pirates?"

it

through the

demands

falling mist.

the Enthusiast, for the

surroundings are so very propitious and the former inhabitants so notorious.

"Do

you see any?"

44

ABBAZIA TO ZENGG
"Oh!

no danger here,"

quoth the Leader.

Those red-capped groups in the harbor are only innocent
fishermen about their daily toil."
there's

**

We

peered anxiously from beneath the curtains as we

thundered through the mediaeval gateway and dashed across

the square to a neat-looking building marked Hotel Zagreb.

"But our

hotel

"Well, Zagreb

was

the

is

is

Agram," ventured

Croatian for Agram."

increased, for the hundredth time, as

sible for the early

the Enthusiast.

And my wonder
to how it was pos-

geographers to evolve the names they did

from the native words.

cheery landlady came from the tiny box of a kitchen

in the centre of the house

and shining

stairs.

and

led us

With conscious

up two

flights of steep

pride, throwing

open

the door of a spotless chamber, she preceded us to open a

small compartment in the double windows and to watch

our faces when, our

veils

being removed, the

pected.

down

sent

no word

it

splendor

For although
upon
was evident that some one was ex-

of her best apartment should burst

we had

full

The immaculate

sheets

us.

were

the bed, over tufted satin quilts;

turned

half-way

the rufBed

and

embroidered pillow cases glistened; a vase of bright artificial flowers ornamented the columnar stove in the corner;

and Dresden shepherdesses looked coyly down

nary bric-a-brac upon the whatnot.

at

more

ordi-

gracefully shaped

glass pitcher stood in the porcelain-lined tin

bowl on the

washstand and plenty of fresh towels were brought. Only

the landlady herself seemed to understand German, so all
orders were given through her.
45

With

the big-eyed Croatian

MOTORING
maiden we found
all,

It

THE BALKANS

IN

gesticulations

our needs were few

ample and

something

to eat

sufficient.

After

and a clean bed.

did not seem exacting.

We

quay through the narrow winding streets and from the pier looked back beyond the warea likely place indeed
houses to the Nahaj Castle on the hill
wandered out

to the

for

a pirate band

but

we saw nothing

piratical

on the slum-

bering sunlit shore, or even in the tortuous streets of the tiny

town.

quiet good-nature

seemed

to prevail

and every-

where we were sped on our way with the greeting,

die Hand.''

46

^'Kiiss

CHAPTER

IV

ZENGG TO GOSPIC OVER THE VRATNIK PASS

"IT'ERY

early the next

for there are

morning our party

is

perforce

awake

no shades or curtains or blinds to shut out

Already the
tain in the public square a girl is
the brilliant light.

she going to carry

it

lightly to her head, balances

away ?

hill

without spilling a drop.

she

is

back again and

filling

and

at the foun-

it

How

her wooden tub.

To my amazement

is

it

city is astir,

deftly,

she

lifts

and walks up the

Before our breakfast

is

ready

as she trips along with a peculiar

lilt-

ing motion the water dances in little pointed wavelets in the

tub but it never dances out. Boys, great and small, many of

them wearing the Croatian

cap, crowd around the automobile

intensely interested in every detail

demeanor

We

are susceptible to each

party, for to-day

of

but with a politeness of

that reassures us.

and an unwonted

we

air of

we

new impression

this

morning

excitement seems to pervade our

are to enter the promised land

to-day

and cross the mountain passes

Vratnik and Mali Halan. What knowledge we have
are to try strange routes

been able to acquire

is

so meagre, so contradictory, that

really is with a thrill of prospective adventure that

we

it

leave

our friendly Hotel Zagreb and set out at last for Dalmatia.
There is a coast road as far as Carlopago, thence to
Gospic but being assured that the better route lies straight
;

inland

blue

we

leave the sea

hills overlap.

On

and

start

the

southern slope the trees are

47

up

the valley where the

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

already tinged with green and the sun shines in briUiant

patches from a wind-swept sky.

It is

indeed a day for adventures.

Frangipani,

who were masters

Should one of the

of this territory in the thir-

teenth century, appear, surrounded by his body-guard, to

demand

toll

prise us.

many

from,

new

this

Or should
The original

would not

it

sur-

the Uscocs dart from any one of the

would seem quite natural and

Uscocs were honest men when driven by

convenient ambushes,

fitting.

invasion,

it

Turks from Bulgaria, Servia, and Bosnia to find refuge,

first in CHssa, and then in Zengg under the protection of Ferdi-

the

nand

of Austria.

Here, at

they

first,

guard against the Turks; but

made an

after being

ideal frontier

checked

in that

direction they turned their attention to the sea, degenerating

into

lawless marauders,

attracting

venturers and outlaws, from

terror of Christian

all

and Austria,

in 1618 the

occupied by

German

their

nations and

and Moslem

atrocities culminating in

to

alike."

"becoming the

After unheard-of

a three years' war between Venice

Uscocs were dispersed and Zengg

troops; but the pirate tales of bar-

baric bloodshed, of hideous crimes for gain,

background

of

darkness and

harbor of Zengg and

Up

these heights

detail delays us

number ad-

its

still

create a

gloom which enfolds the

overhanging rugged heights.

we crawl

slowly for an unexpected

the sharp stones of the road are well worn

smooth ruts and we might mount the

somewhat steep incline with ease were it not for the cassis,
or bumps, which at every forty feet or so force us to slow down
We might almost as well ride in the dry
or break a spring.

down

in

two

fairly

48

ZENGG TO GOSPIC
bed of the torrent, so faithfully do we follow
us a whitewashed chapel

Beside

bends.

belfry above the

wooden

crosses at

far

above

we

us,

Up

its

and up we

until at length,

it,

The many

road goes through and over.

"is where our

white pyramids

which dot the mountain between us and that

show where

the route

Below us the

tiny

see a cleft in the crags.

''That," says the Leader, pointing to

of stones

capricious

lifts

its feet.

go by long windings on the mountain side

its

lies,

and are ready

cleft

for repairing it."

inlets of the sea lie like crater lakes

among

Although we have passed the last straggling

pines and firs, we still hear bird songs above the hum of the
machinery and catch occasional glimpses of the happy songthe peaks.

"Bransevina" we read on a sign-post and look down

sheer two thousand feet to where the islands seem cut in
sters.

Even far-away Cherso comes

ivory out of the blue water.

into view

and then

Suddenly a loaded wagon drawn by two horses appears

on the road ahead of us. Poor things! How frightened
they are

And

teeth chatter!

The predicament

either party, as there

tance

down

how he trembles how

the teamster

is

is

no parapet

that precipice

is

his

not a pleasant one for

to the road

many hundred

and the

feet.

We

disin-

on the outside and the chauffeur talks soothingly

the horses and rubs their noses until they consent to be led

stantly stop
to

by the evidently harmless although terrifying monster. The

man is grateful and smiles pleasantly as he pursues his down-

ward course and we hope fervently

many vehicles on this narrow pass.
40

that

we may

not meet

MOTORING
Soon

after,

view below
of

Arbe

The

we

THE BALKANS

IN

stop at a wayside spring for the marvellous

Beyond the heights

us.

rises like

a shimmering opal out of the turquoise sea.

play of color on her shining

dimpling cloud.

and

in ether

vanish when
continues

its

"This

is

marks

cliffs

is

the vision

it

climb.
the top of the Vratnik Pass [2326 feet]," re-

we

slip

through that

and turn away from the shimmering

we

changes with each

seems floating
half expect anything so lovely must soon
I hear a sharp click beside me and the motor
So unearthly

the Leader, as

fifty-nine

of Veglia the island

minutes to climb

sea.

cleft in the

"We

fifteen kilometers.

crags

have taken

At

this rate

have to make other arrangements for the night."

The road is very muddy from recent rains, the bumps
will

now

we

on a high plateau, a cultivated open country with wooded hills rising on either side.
are farther apart

Cattle scramble

up

for

are

the steep inclines like goats to get out of

our way, palisade-like fences take the place of stone walls,

snow lies by the roadside. "Vratniku 25 K. Otocac,"
says a guide-post, and

our

we

feel

encouraged, for Otocac

is

first halt.

walled-in well and a few scattered adobe huts consti-

tute this settlement of Vratniku.

The

huts are shingled

rows of long "shakes" and in lieu of a chimney have a pointed board placed at a slight angle from a hole
in the roof.
Neatly piled stacks of white birch-wood stand
with

five or six

beside each door.

shelter

is

We

soon discover that this primitive

the characteristic Croatian farmhouse, differing

only in proportions.
so

"22 u

ZENGG TO GOSPIC
Otocac" and three horses abreast

stand

Again we

with horror before the advancing monstrosity.

stop and the chauffeur quiets the frightened beasts.

language

is

totally

unknown

to

stiff

them but the tones

The

are sooth-

ing and comforting so they consent to be led by, and the

strain

is less

intense since this time

edge of a precipice.
the stones, a

hawk

birds fly from the

The

we

are not on the ragged

wild hellebore grows rank

among

overhead, gayly marked small

corniolo^s yellow blossom, and primcircles

roses peep from beneath a tangle of dried clematis.

''Zatalowka," but the tiny hamlet

are on the great plateau of
drier in places.

Men

is

the Velebit

in picturesque

soon passed.

and the road

drawn over

above the string sandal,

on their heads is the inevitable red

the trousers to the knee,

or opanka, pass us;

is

costumes consisting

of blue sleeveless coat, white woollen stockings

and

We

gaiters

Croatian cap and they carry a

flat

bag woven

of horsehair

with red fringe.

to

tumble-down chaise appears and the horses threaten

smash it in their struggles to get away from us but noth;

ing really happens.

will

omit our further experiences

with horses on this one day.

monotony

in the telling of

There seems

to

be a certain

them, which, however, did not

At the time there were always elements of danger; but we successfully emerged from every
one of our ten encounters. Cisasitch is passed, and here a

pertain to the reality!

no mistaking our own

marked with guide-posts from the top of the

road leads to Dabar;

route carefully

but there

Vratnik Pass.
51

is

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

Near Kompolje our exhaust has to be cleaned from the

accumulated mud, and I welcome every stop, as there is

much

always so

From

chalets.

Here the houses resemble Swiss

to see.

over the high-railed wooden balconies the

mountaineers peer at

us, reserved yet friendly,

and seem

less

suspicious than the inhabitants of the coast.

to test their hospitality,

Eager

we go toward one

of the

we approach every head disappears

from the balcony, whether in dislike of my kodak or fear of
ourselves, we cannot tell; but after a moment's delay the
simple dwellings, and as

is

mystery

solved, for all the family have rushed

open the door and welcome

They stand

us.

in a

down

to

huddled

group, looking at us curiously, but not quite certain what to

do.

With

the one

(water), uttered in an ap-

word "voda''

we throw ourpealing tone and with a gesture of drinking,

Their self-consciousness vanishes
selves upon their mercy.
in flashing smiles,

older ones
of

and the youngest runs

motion us to

An

enter.

inside while the

unmistakable odor

onions and soup rushes out through the half-opened

doorway.

"We

are so bundled up," the Gentle

Lady

explains;

"will they pardon us for not accepting their invitation?"

stare in

When

amazement

at the variety

and

How

good

it

tastes!

lucidity of her gestures.

the girl returns with two cups of water

disappears.

How

all

formality

pleased they seem

be at our delight! They finger frankly our strange garments; my pongee mackintosh especially amuses them, and
to

the one

who

each in turn.

discovers the rubber lining has to exhibit

They

talk all the time,

52

it

to

and we do the same,

ZENGG TO GOSPIC
each

in his

sion, are

Leader

own tongue

the tone, the inflection, the expres-

even more telHng than language.

calls us,

we have become good

"

kindly creatures a half-regretful

Once more we surmount a

the top

as

we

we

see

Otocac

Au

By

friends,

the time the

and bid these

revoir.^^

forest-covered ridge,

in the distance.

It is

and from

nearly eleven

stop at the "Oest Automobil Club Auto-Benzin

und

Oel Station" for supplies, and are immediately surrounded

by a crowd in holiday attire.
take the kodak and go across the street," I

"Oh, do

beg the Leader, who, busy about his gasoline, looks up a

But one glance at the picture is enough for
bit annoyed.
him, and he obediently seizes the kodak and crosses the
broad

street.

"If

"Do

would only take color!"

it

see this beautiful

man

at

my

side."

cry as he returns.

By

this time

speak our minds quite freely and aloud, for English

tongue

unknown

man"

tiful

is

detail of the

"

in the interior of Croatia.

meanwhile devouring with

mud-bespattered

The "beau-

his big eyes every

becoming ? And do you see

colored border and cuffs ? Are n't

trimmed with white

bags, large enough

From

And

The women wear

such long pipes?"

who,

car.

brass-studded belts effective?

store

is

Is n't that white knit jacket

each one has a different

the

we

lace

did you ever see

big black silk aprons

and carry the gayest of tasselled

on a donkey's back.

for panniers

the neat-looking inn across the way, from the feed

and the low houses, come slowly a gathering throng,

making

the

henzin

seller

53

their

interpreter,

ask

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

our Leader as to our nationality, the

The word
to-day, and our destination.

intelligent questions of

made

distance

"America" always brings a glance

Is it not the dream of many a boy

of pleased recognition.
to

some day

visit that

wonderful country and, of course, bring home a fortune?

Scarcely a hamlet

so small that

is

it

has not sent at least one

representative to the

New

the people speed us

upon our way with pleasant nods and

World.

So as we leave Otocac

smiles of friendly sympathy.

"That

the road to the PHtvica Lakes," calls

"
u Priboj."
the Leader, as we pass a post which says
it

were

is

later in the season,

but as they
it

lie

two thousand

would be too cold

As we

we would go over there from

just

feet

above the

cross a tiny stream,

his wheels!

where he
ceives

is

here,

afraid

we meet a

cart,

whose owner,

and runs before us

in his anxiety he fails to notice the loss of

seeking shelter;

It is

We

of the roads!

am

"If

now."

fearing to pass us, turns about hurriedly

one of

sea, I

back

comment on

the usual roughness

pick up the wheel and carry

to

it

him

waiting in a hospitable farmyard and he re-

with a mingled expression of amazement and

it

gratitude.

Past Lesce and a cross road to Ravi jane,

a charming dale where the

course.

men bow

mill

is

Gacka River begins

half hidden behind low falls;

politely as

we mount a long

we move by;

well-graded

hill

over the grassy valley and the

through

its

we climb

green length.

the road

gentle

a group of

becomes

drier as

with pleasing views back

little

stream meandering

We have time
54

its

into

to enjoy

it,

for

our

ZENGG TO GOSPIC
poor engine cannot breathe, the radiator is so choked with
mud. Farther on we enter pine forests and hills of spruce

then snow by the

and cedar,

wayside and

many

granite

boulders.

We

look about for water, to replace the loss caused by

Not a brook nor a pool any-

the overheating of the engine.

where
the

Finally at a turn in the road a house appears bearing

welcome sign

^'

Gostiona,^^ (inn)

and the

willing peasant,

in response to our gestures, brings out a pitcher

We

point to the engine,

at his

when, smiling

own

and pour

in

and a

glass.

what he has brought;

cleverness in comprehending these

queer foreigners, he darts toward the well and soon reappears with a kerosene can
fitted

full of

water.

This receptacle,

with a wooden bar for a handle, has usurped the place

of the pail as a carrier of water throughout these regions.

"Gospic?" we ask
K.," he writes on a
in

for

we

are growing hungry.

slip of paper.

most languages!
We thank him for

way over

Luckily figures are alike

his precious draught,

and go on our

the hilltops, through low thickets of

and masses

of rock.

'*

Maquis^

is

"25

"

maquis^'

a name given to a certain

type of vegetation, grayish green in color, which abounds on

the dry boulder-strewn slopes of the Mediterranean region.
It consists of

aromatic plants, such as the rosemary, thyme,

lavender, myrtle, mastic, and helichrysum, with cistus of

and lavendula, intermingled with

Their perfume is
the buckthorn, wild olive, and juniper.
said to protect them from animals, and they are able to
various kinds,

oleaster,

withstand the long droughts of midsummer: here evidently

55

MOTORING
the

same conditions

The mountains are covered

and we can see our road winding in

prevail.

with snow on our right,

long loops

up

THE BALKANS

IN

lows the crops are green and sheep graze

We

In the deep hol-

the other side of the valley.

among

the stones.

two thousand and eighty

gain another crest,

vdth a wonderful glimpse of snow

fields

feet,

on summits veiled

in clouds.

we meet

Past the towns of Kvarte and Perusic,

loaded wagons at the door of a wayside inn.

men

the

are inside the house

Fortunately

and we are by before they have

a chance to communicate their

The lamb's-wool

dumb

fright to the

flit

beasts.

horse-blankets, dyed in brilliant colors,

contrast gayly with the grayness of the road.

wheatears

four

back and forth across our

Flocks of

way.

Such

beautiful creatures!

Descending into a plain of ploughed

fields,

and crossing

the river Lika, a wide, straight road brings us to the village

of Gospic at the foot of the

snow-crowned Velebit Moun-

tains.

Evidently,

it

is

market-day, for the

picturesque groups of peasants.

coats, striped waistcoats,

yellow kerchiefs of the

The

and red caps

way

is

lined

with

sleeveless sheepskin

of the

men, the bright

women, make dancing

spots of color

amidst the sheep and cows, the donkeys and chickens,

to
say nothing of the pigs, each one of which has to be cajoled
into believing that this
this

is

the direction he wishes to take.

All

forms an amusing spectacle, and we move with the utmost

care to enjoy

it

as well as to avoid unpleasant entanglements.

At half-past one we

arrive at the door of the Svratiste

56

ZENGG TO GOSPIC
We

Lika, the hotel in Gospic.

have made only

fifty-four

miles in five hours; but considering the condition of the roads,

we

are satisfied

and also very hungry.

Yet

it is

with

dif-

ficulty that I sit quietly at table in the primitive restaurant

for just outside the

peasants,

men and women,

ping to chat or gossip,

From

street.

are passing

and slowly
of

small boys in the street swing dull

"Why?"

and repassing,

strolling

down

stop-

the long

the onion-shaped steeple of the church near

comes a hideous din as

by,

low windows groups of gayly dressed

I begin,

pounding on copper, and

wooden

rattles vigorously.

but the Leader has already informed

himself.

"It

Holy Thursday, and they are celebrating," he

is

answers.
After luncheon

we would

we hold a

council of

better rest here over night or

war as

push on

to whether

to Zara.

"How far is it?" asks Madame Content.

"We have still about seventy-five miles to go.
know nothing of the roads. Unless
than we have had this morning, we

they are

Of course

much

better

shall not get in until

very late."

"Is there any place to stop between here and Zara?"

"None
tired to

We

that I

all

hotel

country

of," he answers.

"Is any one too

go on?"
protest our willingness.

responsibility;

The

know

is

lies

The Leader has

whatever he decides

is

best

we

all

will

the
do.

not inviting, the sky looks clearer, the promised

so near.

We

conclude to go on.

57

CHAPTER V
ENTERING DALMATIA GOSPIC TO ZARA

"t_TOW

Dalmatia from here?" queries the Enthuas we leave Gospic and speed down the fairly

far

siast,

is

good road over a

an imposing range

level plain beside

of

snowy mountains.
"It

is

we must
For

thirty miles to the frontier," replies the Leader,

first

climb a pass over four thousand

fifteen kilometers the

road

is

"but

feet high."

encumbered with the

wagons of the country folk returning from market. It is

very narrow, and the horses are terrified at the unwonted
no railroads have accustomed them

noise of our approach, for

to

steam engines or other mechanical conveyances. In these

countries the chauffeur not only has the care of the motor,

but of every horse or donkey or pair of oxen along the way,

and

"Whoa!" spoken from

his vigorous

the car, seems to

have a wonderfully calming influence upon the plunging

Does the mere sound of the human voice coming
steeds.

from

this strange

syllables

machine reassure them?

must be new

Over a

slight rise

to

them!

and

straight

where the oxen ploughing

our

flight,

we

come

Certainly the

away

across a plain,

in the field stop, terror-stricken at

to

a cross-roads whose signs have

tumbled down; but following the telegraph poles as well

as the indications on the map, we keep to the right and

sweep over a

snowy peak

hilltop into

of

a rolling dale.

Vakanski Vrh (5843

58

feet)

Before us rises the

;

below the white

ENTERING DALMATIA
expanse, glistening, ice-covered trees stand in serried ranks,

and we

strain

our eyes to see whether we can discover any

sign of road or horse or vehicle within that silent wilderness.

Leaving Vakanski behind us, we enter a region of blue

mountains veiled in dark, low-lying clouds; "Sv. Rok," we
quit the

highway leading

Knin, turn to the

to

in four minutes are reassured

by the

Dalmatian name: "Obrovac36."

Soon we begin to climb in earnest,

and

sign bearing a

first

no

right,

soft rolling

over

each new height, but a long,

hilltops with a gradual rise at

steady pull up the mountain side, through forests of budding

beech-trees: the landscape

snow appear by

pink with them.

is

the roadside

and increase

Patches of

to long drifts;

then the mountains are covered with thin layers growing

ever deeper.
as to

Meanwhile the snow

somewhat impede our

in the road increases so

progress, but

banks three and

four feet in height on either side are evidence that this pass

over the Velebit, the best inland communication between

Croatia and Dalmatia,

As we

rise,

is

kept open

all

winter.

the great valley of the Ricice spreads out in

wonderful perspective below us; lakes and tiny threads of

rivers,

horizon

dotted villages, and distant

is

bounded by range

lost in clouds.

Up

hills,

after range of lofty

the steep ascent

so narrow that

anything
sible to

to

we

shiver at the

The

59

cHmb,

way

mere thought of meeting

by testing each inch of

pass,
!

to

cleared

but when the emergency arises we find

go over the edge

whole

mountains

we continue

scattering the tiny pebbles in our path.

is

until the

soft

snow

it is

pos-

so as not

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

Wlien the poor, overworked engine, clogged with the

of the valley, gets hot, handfuls of

snow

mud

are pushed into the

steaming radiator, and we go onward, ever upward. Now

we are in the clouds, and we push forward cautiously, sound-

An

ing the horn at frequent intervals.

eagle sails out of the

driving mist above us, and a hut half buried in the

seen.
still

It is

We

the government station of Mali Halan.

in Croatia, but the top of the pass (3483 feet)

is

are

must be

Making a sharp turn through jagged cliffs, we

close at hand.

This

pass a frontier post.

As

snow

is

Dalmatia.

sympathy with our ardent desires, the clouds lift,

slowly disclosing a world of crags and precipices; a gray
world, without a touch of green; no budding beech-trees
here,

if

in

indeed, no

naught

trees at

all,

nor bush, nor spear of grass,

but the grandeur of towering peaks beneath a

Down

threatening sky.

we wind and

the inclines

turns are broad and no cassis impede our

soon disappears behind

"What

is

that inscription

*T can

siast.

us.

see

The Leader

it is

We

flight,

twist, the

and the snow

stop to lower the hood,

on the

cliff?" cries the

and

Enthu-

not Slavic."

goes over to investigate, and returns with the

following lines in his note-book and a touch of emotion in

his voice

Alla memoria del

gendarm Francisco Fracasso

QUALE NEL GIORNO

MaGGIO

27

85 1 IN DIFESA

PRIETA CADE COMBATTENDO CONTRO

(To the memory

DELDA PrO-

ASSASSINI.

of the soldier Francisco Fracasso,

the twenty-seventh of
fell

22

May,

185 1,

fighting against 22 assassins.)

60

il

who on

while protecting property,

ENTERING DALMATIA
What a picture it brings to us here in this desolate spot!
The hopeless struggle, the death for duty's sake!
As we continue our journey the mist rises, and an inis

panorama

describably magnificent

revealed; the ribbon-

twelve different
highway chngs to the mountain side,
levels can we trace before it takes its arrow-like course
like

across the plain,

that plain which soon resolves

into

with the blue lakes of Novigrad and

series of terraces,

Karin

itself

on

like jewelled bosses

its

pearly breast.

At the west opens the Canale della Montagna. The

long rays of the afternoon sun touch the small white villages

and Tribanje, Nona, the Island of Pago; and

Lussin, where rises Monte Ossero in dream-like out-

of Starigrad
far off

The

line.

and

studded with tiny reefs

faintly glittering sea is

extending as far south as

islands of varying sizes,

Sebenico.

At the southeast

Krka

the

River,

rise the

and

still

snowy

Svilaja

Mountains beyond

farther

away

the Dinarian Alps

The

upon the Bosnian boundary.

sula

of

Dalmatia

Hke a

unfolded

lies

great northwestern penin-

map

before

with the white walls of Zara seventy kilometers away.

Dalmatia
enter
the

it,

first

is

wonderful, and

surely the best

dropping from the clouds, as

impressive picture in

descending to inspect

down

bit

it

Under overhanging
slide

this

is

its

by

it

were,

us,

Yes,

way

to

securing

length and breadth before

bit.

and over deep ravines we

Suddenly far below us a collection

precipices

in long loops.

of ant-like objects appears

upon the road.

At nearer view

these resolve themselves into a caravan of at least fifteen

6x

MOTORING
wagons, drawn up

THE BALKANS

IN

upon the outside of that

mountain highway, where no parapet protects them from
falling into depths some hundred feet below! Evidently the
in single

file

men are on their way up the pass, and on account of

and heavy

loads, have

but they take

no fear that

the grade

their horses will

run

far;

possible precautions, blocking each wheel

all

with a large stone, and placing themselves at their horses'

Although we advance very

heads to await our onslaught.

slowly, with engine off, at sight of us the

first

horses instantly

shy, throwing the whole line into confusion.

stricken

What can

bankment ?

least

taken the inside of

But the teamsters speak soothingly to

beasts, with an apologetic expression toward us.
the road

We

found

attitude

this

want

to see

strangers

with us,

and the

Of
ward

is

will

smell, for

course

we

behind the times, but we

carriages.

grow accustomed,

we

We

going on in the world.

and the strange new

we

poor

through Dalmatia. The

must excuse us and our igno-

"You
We know we are

what

their

all

peasants seem to say:

rant animals.

are terror-

prevent them from going over the em-

have they not at

Why

We

Do

welcome

not be angry

in time, to the noise

too wish to be civilized."

stop at once and the chauffeur goes for-

to assist in untangling

ing the frightened animals.

broken harnesses and

After a few

moments they seem

and permit us
by, thankful that matters are no worse.
to appreciate our harmlessness

in calm-

to glide slowly

Across the high plateau lying to the southwest of the

where only the small
Velebit Mountains we merrily speed,

huts of the shepherds, dotted here and there, keep us com62

ENTERING DALMATIA
pany, and a tiny chapel
the hamlet

of

lifts its

Mekdolac,

cross

and

by the wayside,

past

approach Obrovazzo, or

Obrovac, the end of the Velebit Pass.

This great piece of engineering, connecting Zara with

the highway between Karlstadt and Knin, was constructed
in

It

1829-32.

is

twenty-one

grade of more than

feet

wide, with nowhere a

per cent, and

five

twenty-three kilo-

is

meters (fourteen and three-eighths miles) in length between

Obrovac and the Dalmatian

on the top of the pass.

go by water from Obrovac to Zara, by

It is possible to

way

of the

frontier

Zrmanja River, the sea

of Novigrad, the canal

Montagna, stopping at Pago, and on through landlocked channels. This is a delightful sail of about nine and
della

a half hours.

Obrovac

is

charmingly situated at the bottom

narrow ravine through which flows the Zrmanja River.

The small steamer lies at its dock below the ruined castle on
of a

the hill in wonderful green water.

Fruit-trees are in

The

bloom and the

inhabitants rush out to see us but

air is soft

we make no pause,

From

the hours of daylight are slipping away.

they watch our upward

flight,

as

we climb

The

red sun

waters of Novigrad

and turn

to

ing desert.

rainbow

On the

is

the quays

in short windings

to the plateau separating this shut-in valley

of Karin.

and mild.

from the Lake

sinking in a burst of glory over the

long brilliant rays shoot up into the sky

tints the

rocks and sage-brush of the

protected slopes around

grain and grapes are growing,

roll-

Lake Karin both

a welcome change from the

gray landscape we have passed through.

connecting the two lakes, a strong bridge
63

Over the
is

inlet

in course of

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

and the temporary structure looks so insecure

that we slow down to reconnoitre; but from a group

construction,

of

steps forward
to

and with gestures

we ascend a

gHmpses

Franciscan

friendly

of reassurance

After exchanging salutations with

cross.

friar

peasants

picturesque

of the

steep incline

last

monastery

can

see,

top, to

our surprise, our road,

lies straight

beckons us
the

loops,

kindly

catching

in its sheltered cove beside the

lake.

At the

in

brother

as

far as the eye

and smooth and empty!

Only the

heart of a true automobilist can appreciate the delicious sen-

which such a

sations

sight produces!

Without a word, the

chauffeur bends over his wheel, each one of us snuggles

into his or her heavy wraps,

and

in rapturous flight

down

we

race

with the gathering dusk.

Through

alternate rock-bound pastures

sheep are watched by gayly gowned young

them
fig

girls

some of

hand; by small settlements embowered in

trees past a Turkish fortification rising from

distaff in

and

stony

where flocks of

olive

meadows where

flourish

low juniper bushes;

Smilcic and Zemonico, both upper and lower,

for the light

is

growing fainter and

we

past

hasten,

fainter.

Hardly do we perceive the mulberry trees bordering the

route near Babindub!
Scarcely can we distinguish the sea
as we approach its dark expanse; but the lights of a fairy
city begin to

gleam

in the distance.

come; a tiny harbor, mediaeval

the
way

Porta Terrafermc

confidence, the Leader signals.

64

Nearer and nearer they

.dls,

and an imposing gate-

Through

this,

in

perfect

ENTERING DALMATIA
"Turn

to the left

two blocks, and then

to the right";

and we stop at the Hotel Bristol, Zara. We have travelled

only one hundred and twenty-nine miles to-day; but have
crossed two mountain passes, one of 2326 feet and the other
of 3483 feet, starting

from and returning

65

to the sea.

CHAPTER

VI

ZARA

r^OOD
A
As

FRIDAY!

never-to-be-forgotten morning at Zara!

throw open the shutters the whole exquisite scene is

disclosed the soft sky, the pearly slopes of the mountainous
I

islands,

the

limpid

water, the fishing-smacks at

beyond the low embankment.

steamer approaching the pier

is

Even

the

anchor

black-and-red

transformed by the match-

An Austrian officer has

an object of beauty.
kindly loosened his blue cape, which falls in graceful folds
A Roman priest, in black casas he strides smartly by.

less light into

sock, red sash,

and broad-brimmed

hat, eagerly

exchanges

views with a stolid parishioner, and two lovers of the beauti-

having their morning coffee on the terrace below

plein airy

ful are
'^en

A woman

in

a blue gown, red hose, and white kerchief

walks slowly by, balancing a three-gallon can of milk on her

head; on her

arm

she carries a heavy tin pail, thus leaving

her hands free for her knitting.

leisurely along with

The

nod

sail,

in unison.

soon but here

is

two men stand

at

The clumsy black

another one painted blue.

white shirts of the oarsmen gleam in the sunshine and

their constant chatter rises faintly to

boat

fisherman's boat moves

limp and flapping

the oars, their red caps

craft passes all too

is

my upper window.

This

laden with pine branches which exhale their pungent

66

ZARA
fragrance in the placid
I

wonder?

air.

Are these

for Easter decorations,

Here below the quay which has replaced the

ancient city walls the water

is

so deep that the boats pass

by.

and the men may exchange greetings with the passerWhen the discussion becomes especially intense, the

boat

is

close,

owner comes ashore

the

way and

stopped at one of the stone pillars along the

to enforce his theories.

more gorgeous in themselves, or is

it
only the atmospheric effect ? That golden brown of the
velveteen on the lad who lounges by! That rich tan of the
Are the colors

flying sail
drifts

bound

by with a

really

for the opposite isle!

woman

faded green hull

leaning on a long oar.

Is she really

helping or merely making an exquisite picture in her snowy

coif

and

dull blue

In another boat the whole family

gown ?

are evidently out for an airing as a kerchiefed child squats

upon the covered prow and a baby crows from

arms.

Flocks of terns, those graceful swallows of the sea,

whirl and dart over the rippling waves.

stillness!

No

move

How

restful is the

railroad or trolley within sixty miles!

steam tugs or cranes or whistles!

boats

his mother's

noiselessly.

Even

The

ships

and

No

fishing-

the occasional steamer slides

with bated breath through the waters of this enchanted sea.

My

thoughts follow her in idle reverie.

"Do

you intend to spend your entire day gazing out that

window?" calls a mocking voice from the neighboring
balcony.

"Oh, no indeed!
all ,

my

Of

course not.

want

to see

it

"

And

hand moves vaguely over the constantly changing

scene.

but could anything be more fascinating than this ?

67

MOTORING
"Where

first?" I

THE BALKANS

IN

demand, as we

stroll

toward the

suppose you know that the cathedral here

one," begins the Leader.
'*I

"What

is

women carrying?"
And do look at her

that

be a turkey?

apron, and leggings!

her."

And

Oh,

must

is

I interrupt.
full

pier.

a famous

"Can

it

short skirts, gay

try to get a

kodak

of

gaze carefully in the opposite direction as the

unconscious poseuse approaches.

"Did you

see her

"And

passes.

oh!

embroidered kerchief?"
there are

I cry, as

some more over by the

she

post-

office."

I try to

walk

sedately, not stare too intently,

gay and

lively scene.

and

yet to

For

this is

grasp in

all its details this

our

experience with the barbaric costumes of the

first

Mor-

and no background could be more effective than these

gray stones and stucco walls beneath this cloudless sky of
Zara. Descending from the land of Rascia in the fourteenth
lacchi

century these swarthy Slavs settled in the interior of Istria

The name
and along the canals of northern Dalmatia.
Morlacchi is derived from the Slav words "Mauro Vlach,"
"

meaning

black Wallachs."

The market-place

is

resplendent with oranges and onions,

lemons, wild asparagus, and chicory, under scarlet awnings

Gayer than all are the moving

groups of picturesque peasants. Such bravery of color!
Such gorgeous raiment! Such charming caps and kerchiefs!
in the dazzling sunshine.

Such bags and belts and baskets

For be it known that each island
!

village

on the mainland, even each

68

of the Quarnero, each

sect in

that village,

l.\

IHK MARKKI-PLACF-:

THE HASKETS ARE BEAUTIFl'L

I\ ZAKA

TiiF,

ki\A \r;rcHiA, zara

ZARA
whether Greek or Roman, has

men

vie with the

women

sashes, blue trousers

slit

its

own

The

peculiar dress.

in splendor, for their red caps

and

ankle to disclose the embroid-

at the

ered leggings, waistcoats shining with silver buttons, and

white lamb's-wool coats thrown over the shoulders form an

attire

both comfortable and becoming.

women wear the

ly

worked with

Most

of the

men and

opanka, or leather sandal, laced and curiousstring.

But

alas!

even here civilization

is

about to encroach upon picturesqueness, for a long row of

baskets

filled

with clumsily

made low

shoes, evidently the

very latest imported fashion, are attracting

many

purchasers

in the market-place.

At one corner, leaning

lightly against a

column, stands a

young girl with the air of a Greek goddess, clasping

her hands a basket of snowy eggs. Should any one choose
but she scorns to persuade.
buy, well and good,

beautiful
in
to

Not
olive

away a worthy dame exposes

far

oil.

It

for sale her stock of

stands beside her in a brightly poHshed kero-

sene can with a glass carafe

full of

it

as a sample.

She

squats comfortably on the ground, a customer approaching

assumes also the Japanese posture, sniffs the small carafe

and tastes its contents. There is much discussion as to
quahty and

price,

both enjoying thoroughly the good-natured

After some minutes, the bargain being completed,

banter.

the purchaser extracts a bottle from his saddle bags, pours

the rich oil into

it,

and saunters on

in

search

of

other

bargains.

We

from group to group. There is no monotony

of costume, no two are dressed precisely alike.
Some
stroll

69

MOTORING
women

THE BALKANS

IN

are distinguished

by a short jacket, others by a long

by a fringed native shawl, but all are

decked with odd barbaric jewelry, rings and beads, brooches
sleeveless coat, others

and a curious medal

silver five-kronen piece

fixed style of filigree

"Maria Theresa."

called a

made

is

in Dalmatia, encircled with a

and the whole

Suddenly, in the distance,

This

gilded.

appeared two attractive

figures,

brocaded aprons glistening in the sunlight, their

"Maria Theresas" carefully displayed beneath their knotted

their

stiff

kerchiefs.

am

"I

going to ask them to pose for me,"

Before a remonstrance could stop

by

gestures to explain

my

desires.

me

muttered.

was endeavoring

They spoke nothing but

For such an unheard-of request, however, the serof a linguistic policeman were necessary.
Just outside

Slavic.

vices

the Porta

Marina we found an accommodating

official,

who

explained our meaning in loud tones to the bewildered peasants and in an equally loud voice translated into Italian
their

smiHng

affirmatives.

If

could only have photo-

graphed the group, the interested onlookers, the ancient lion

But the light
of St. Mark looking down from the city gate
!

was viTong and

succeeded in getting only faint reproductions

of these comely country

"The

began the Leader again, and we

face its lovely cream jagade.

cathedral,"

turned a corner to

"It does recall the

charming.

women.

The

Duomo

at Pisa," I granted,

it is

arches and attached columns being grad-

uated give just enough variety and play of

"The two

"and

rose

windows

light

and shade."

are later work, Jackson says,"

70

ZARA
continued the Leader, "but as a whole

considered the

Dalmatia."

finest fagade in

"How

it is

beautiful

campanile is!" exclaimed

the

the

Enthusiast.

"Yes,

though

it

it

carries out exactly the style of the period, al-

did not receive

two crowning stories until withThey are from designs by the

its

the last few years.

in

distinguished English architect, Mr. Jackson."

The Dalmatians

a deeply religious

are

No

people.

chimes were heard that whole long day, no clocks struck, or

any kind. The flags on the club-house, the postoflice, and all the government buildings, as well as on the
passing steamers, were at half mast. For was it not Good
bells of

Friday ?

Not only the cathedral was crowded with worshippers,

but also San Simeone, where we joined the admiring throng

who mounted

the narrow stairway behind the shrine.

body

of the saint

tion

lies

who

held the infant Christ at the Presenta-

here, enclosed in a magnificent silver

sented by the unfortunate

1377.

This

is

Queen Elizabeth

of

Area pre-

Hungary

in

not only a splendid specimen of goldsmith's

from contemporary

art but also interesting for the scenes

history depicted

upon

its

Formerly it "was
These were melted

carved panels.

supported on four angels of

down

The

silver.

war between Venice and Cyprus,

and have been replaced by two of stone and two of bronze
made from cannon taken from the Turks and given to Zara
at the time of the

by Venice in 1647."
At San Francesco,

(F-

H. Jackson.)

after

examining the Gothic choir

71

stalls

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

which have been called "among the finest in Dalmatia,"

we went into the sacristy where hung a beautiful old picture
an elaborate blue and gold Gothic frame.
something for which we were not prepared.
in

''Who painted it?" we demanded

of the

This was

young Francis-

can.

'Tt came from Ugljan,

'T do not know," he answered.

was

Vienna

sent to

for restoration,

and has been here only

or six years."

five

"It

is

certainly fifteenth century,"

murmured the Leader.

"Perhaps," indifferently replied the youthful friar, and

endeavored to lead us on to other treasures in the usual

But

round.

it

is

not every day that one discovers a

painting by an old master, and

we stood

templation before the sweet-faced

child

on her knees.

Martyr,

baned

St.

saint,

other saints
"

Have

all

Madonna

with the Christ

either side of her were St. Peter

on a glowing

gilt

background.

you a photograph of it ?" asked the Enthusiast.

has never been taken," asserted the monk, more

n't

a beautiful picture."
it

in thoughtful con-

Ambrogio, St. Francis, St. Jerome and a turwhile above and below were medallion heads of

"No, it
and more astonished
saw

On

new

at

our enthusiasm.

And

he looked at

"Yes,
it

it is

indeed

curiously, as

if

he

for the first time.

Wandering through the narrow streets of this mediaeval

and stopped to
city we came upon a gracefully curving apse
admire

its

arcaded gallery.

must be San Grisogono," hazarded the Leader.

Before the entrance little children in groups of twos and
"It

72

ZARA
threes, the older ones leading tinier tots
lifting the

heavy curtain to pass

"San Grisogono

in

and

by the hand, kept

out.

the patron saint of Zara," read the

is

Leader; "his body was brought here from Aquileia

The interior of the church has been modernized."

"Why

is it

that only children are visiting this

in 649.

church?"

"Can't we go in a minute?"
was dark and still. At the farther end the

asked the eager Inquirer.

The
altar

interior

was illuminated with small cups of

lighted wicks screened

texts illuminated

by

texts that the children could understand.

beneath the

altar, pots of

oil

creamy

on which

floated

on vellum, simple

On

the

pavement

grasses, each glowing with

mysteriously hidden light, outlined a great white cross.

How

What

a con-

chaste and sane a symbol for this holy day!

trast to the

agonizing figure which, in varying degrees of

reahstic detail,
faithful

is

usually exposed for the adoration of the

Roman

Jadar, the capital of Dal-

attractive city, built

upon a long peninsula and

Zara, or Zadar, the

matia,

is

an

surrounded

still

on

all sides

except the sea front, by

teenth century fortifications.

have been modified.

Above

its six-

To

be sure, some of these

the

Porta Marina a shady

promenade has been planted, where, on

that

sunny morning

in the springtime, the elm-trees were

heavy with blossom.

Leaning over the parapet, we traced the narrow entrance to

the port, where, in days of old, chains stretched from shore

to shore kept out the enemies' fleet.

harbor the

Romans and Dalmatians,

earlier Illyrians, the

In this small, quiet

or descendants of the

Franks and Byzantines, the Venetians

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

and Croatians, the Hungarians, Bosnians, and Turks, the

French, and finally the Austrians have each in turn fought
for

supremacy.

How peacefully the

quiet waters!

yachts and steamers

With what

security ships

lie

from

now upon
far

the

and near

and greet the swarming small boats

that come to give or take the cargo!
Fishing-smacks from
the Croatian coast, Chioggia, Lesina and many neighboring
cast their anchors here

islands, are

moored

at the quay.

Their

brilliant sails are

awnings and on the shaded decks lounge variBack and forth through the Porta Marina,
colored groups.

utilized for

the fisher folk pursue their occupations, while

in

we look down

keen enjoyment upon the shifting scene.

At the farther end of the Riva Vecchia, a broad

street is

being opened through the old walls which will doubtless add
The foundations of
to the material prosperity of the city.

a magnificent

Roman

triumphal arch have thus been un-

earthed for the second time, and

way may be found

it is

them

to preserve

to be

hoped that some

in their present situation.

Before the Giardino Pubblico, planted on an ancient

an open square containing five pozzi, or wells, all

communicating with one vast cistern, where the water,

bastion,

is

after being elaborately filtered

citizens of Zara.

ing guard

As we
a

house,

and

feel that I

sturdy,

perfect,

fills it

am looking on

except

is

free to the

linger in the shade of a neighbor-

short-skirted

swiftly across the hot flagged square,

tub upon the curb,

purified,

damsel comes

and resting her wooden

from the cool

at a bit of stage

well.
life.

The

for her, the place is deserted.

74

cannot but
setting

We

is

stand

ZARA
motionless as she

lifts

moves

down

off steadily

the

brimming

the long

vessel to her

shadowy

head and

street.

am sure it is time for luncheon," suddenly exclaims

Madame Content, and we return to the hotel to test the
*'I

on tempting trays

variety of sea-food exposed

Fresh from the water, they are brought in

restaurant.
glistening

they,

and

palpitating, the dentate, the branzino,

names

others whose

many

in the big

and well cooked.

never learned.

In

fact, all the

Delicious were

food was excellent,

but the proprietors had a strange aversion to fresh

air.

double windows were not only nailed down, but

it

as though every chink

was

stufifed

and

seemed

The

with cotton.

The
doors

were carefully kept closed, and smoking was permitted, nay,

encouraged, at all hours of the day or night. However, we
were far more comfortable than we had expected to be in
Dalmatia. Our own rooms were fairly clean and the pillows were of feathers.

There was a bath-room,

too, in the

where a hot bath could be obtained on giving notice

To be sure there was no lift and our
of an hour and a half!
hotel,

rooms were
going up and

in the third story;

down

stairs is

but every one knows that

one of the best forms of exercise.

However, what compensated us for these lesser inconveniences was the possession of a tiny balcony facing the sea and

The

the western sky.

just far

enough away

bare limestone crags of Ugljan were

and give back the full radiance

And at evening what glorious cloud

to catch

of the

morning sun.

effects

were reflected in the shimmering water!

But Saturday
tied to the

buoy

it

all

rained.

the

To

be sure the tiny row-boat

day before had plenty

75

of

companions

MOTORING
in

this

propitious

THE BALKANS

IN

weather.

trabaccoli

over the oily water with one orange

hue.

Slowly they

filled

glided

and one

sail

of

gently

browner

with the mild south wind and disap-

peared toward the village of

S.

Euphemia.

mist loomed the distant fortress of

S.

Through

the

Michele, crowning the

heights of Ugljan.

"We

Museum

haven't seen the

yet,"

.suggested

the

Leader.
It

proved to be well worth a

visit.

Agreeably displayed
round ninth century church of San Donato,
in
a treasure to the archaeologist,
were Roman frag-

in the

itself

ments and jewels, Greek vases and other antiquities from

Aquileia, a collection of coins and inscriptions, Lombard

and mediaeval

reliefs, historical objects,

tectural decoration.

The woman

wander about and examine

No

us.

at

and

bits of archi-

in charge permitted us to

our leisure whatever attracted

other visitors distracted her attention.

She an-

swered our questions intelligently and bade us God-speed

when we departed, quite as if in her own domain.
It

much

has been said, that in Dalmatia a stranger will find

to surprise

and perplex him.

"He

will

wonder

at the

extremes of civilization he encounters, ranging from high

culture to something lower than semi-barbarism; and above
all,

he will be perplexed by the existence, unaccountable to

those

who have

not studied Dalmatian history, of the two

elements in the population,

Latin and Slavonic, which

have lived on, side by side, without losIn the shops the people
difference." (Jackson.)

for twelve centuries

ing their

speak Italian;

the signs, too, are in that language.

76

//

ZARA
Piccolo della Sera arrives daily

mate

is

from Trieste and II Dal-

published twice a week in Zara.

This

the only Italian municipality in Dalmatia

is

Forty years ago Italian

here are the only Italian schools.

was used generally

throughout the country,

in the schools

German was

then for a short time

introduced, but

branch of the Slavic tongue called

that

example of

now

Servian-Croatian

that
is,

Instead of

according to recent authorities, "universal."

using

and

cumbersome compound I have followed the

modern writers and designated the language of

these Slavs as Slavic.

Just south of Zara, on the coast,

is

the small Albanian

village of Borgo Erizzo which has an interesting history.

In

when Vincenzo Zmajevich was made archbishop of

he brought with him from Perasto, his native town,

1726,

Zara,

twenty-seven families of Albanians

from the

fleeing

atrocities of

who

Mehmed

shortly before this,

Begovich, pasha of

Count Erizzo, who then

commanded the fortress of Zara, assigned them land near
Being sober and industrious they prospered and inby.
Albania, had sought his protection.

creased

and

now

they

The women work

souls.

after

until

which they remain

fields

We

at

number about

in the factories until they

home.

The men own

marry,

vineyards

within a radius of seven or eight miles.

took a very personal interest in the Hungarian Lloyd

steamer which arrived at half -past

ing the Paris mail.

It

was a

five that afternoon, bring-

pretty boat, white with a red

band about the black funnel and a white

Many

thousand

three

port-holes

star

and a roomy deck indicated

77

its

on the

red.

concession

MOTORING
to the

passenger

THE BALKANS

IN

The crowd

service.

welcomed

that

it

formed a moving mass of black umbrellas, for the rain was

steady if light. At six the steamer started once more upon
her way, but

it

took two long hours to distribute and deHver

that precious mail.

In the Piazza dei Signori

of a benevolent

gift

is

the Biblioteca Paravia, the

of Zara.

citizen

This occupies the

The

ancient court of justice, a fifteenth century loggia.

street

connecting this piazza with the

able

promenade and on

filled

with a throng of

Rome

have been in

Duomo

is

the fashion-

Sunday afternoon it was

well-dressed persons.
But one might
that Easter

or Glasgow, in Boston or in Munich, so

any local color was concerned.

''How monotonous a world entirely

far as

civilized

exclaimed the Enthusiast in a disappointed tone.

Alas!

Not a

Gone were

's

city walls

above the

little

harbor.

fishing-boat remained beside the Riva Vecchia!

the craft from Chioggia, from Croatia,

Arbe and her

place and

"Let

go
So we wandered back to the

over to the Porta Marina."

shady walk on the old

would be!"

sister

islands!

empty the Fossa

returned the Morlacchi and
!

Deserted was the market-

Back
all

from

to their

own

villages

had

the picturesque country folk!

What a different impression Zara would have left upon us

had we missed that brilliant market-scene on the morning of
Good Friday!

78

CHAPTER VII
SCARDONA FALLS OF KRKA SEBENICO
'HP HE morning

that

we

leave Zara for Sebenico

with brief spatters of sunshine.

only as far as Pakoscane,

we

turn

As

is

cloudy,

the coast road goes

away from

the Adriatic

and journey inland through avenues of chestnuts, almonds

already green, elms, and cherry-trees heavy with blossoms.
In this pebbly soil, olives, vines, and vegetables flourish
astonishingly.

Plantations of pine alternate with sheep pastures

road.

and

Walls of green brambles border an excellent

hawthorn hedges
flower and beside them bloom large pink anemones

fields

are in

of

grain.

Farther

on,

the

Looking back from the top of a hill we

have a beautiful view of Zara, lying lightly on the sea like an

and asphodel.

outpost of Venice.

At Zemonico are the ruins of a cavalry station fortified

by the Venetians against the Turks. Here in 1346 Ladislas
of

Hungary encamped with 100,000 men,

assist the Zaratines

who were

ostensibly

besieged by the Venetians,

but like the King of France in the nursery rhyme,

"Went up the hill

With twenty thousand men;
The King of France came down the
And

ne'er

to

who

hill,

went up again."

So Ladislas appears to have done nothing on either side,

and after a few weeks he took his army back to his
79

MOTORING
own

The

country again.

THE BALKANS

IN

plain has a peaceful appearance

and nothing more inimical than barking dogs

We are
pursues us as we speed through the village.
afraid of running over them, and the Gentle Lady is
at present,

obliged to threaten so vigorously with her whip that she

drops

it.

''Oh, wait!
half a mile

Ve

away

lost

my

whip," she

before

we

stop.

cries,

As we

but we arc

start

back, a

comes running toward us, bearing our precious

weapon, and he refuses to accept anything for his services
friendly lad

but our hearty thanks.

So

far,

we had

retraversed the highway which brought

us to Zara; but just beyond Zemonico we turned south, and

more the road lay

after four kilometers

straight before us the

According to tradition, on this

plain of Grobnica the Tartars met defeat in the thirteenth
It is a pleasant country with green willows,
century.
entire distance to Biljane.

more

j&elds of grain,

many

vines

and oHves, even

fig-trees

in sheltered nooks.

Peculiar to these limestone

formed by the winter

rains.

regions are shallow lakes

In the spring the water gradu-

which the crops are planted,

so that by midsummer the whole is a waving mass of green.
ally recedes, leaving

One

a rich

known

of these,

soil in

as the

Lake

of Nadin,

now appeared

the distance, but gradually the Karst reasserted

itself

in

and the

small shepherdess in her lamb's- wool coat and crimson cap

became once more a

Biljane

as

is

feature in the landscape.

a hamlet of half a dozen houses, with perhaps

many more

scattered through the fields.

80

Here our course

SCARDONA SEBENICO
turned to the southeast, sharply dividing the rich valley on

from the rocky waste on the other side. The way was
stony but we met no vehicle and hence could stay in the
Clusters of low houses guarded
smooth wheel tracks.
the

left

the crops on the southern slopes.

It

road should pursue the even tenor of

to them, but

it

was probably

seemed curious that the

its

way without regard

built for military purposes

and

took the shortest route between two points.

At Benkovac the Karin, Novigrad, and Vrana highway

Here a dismantled castle had a
crossed our own route.
certain

us in

charm

it.

of age

and our Leader strove

to

interest

But our attention could not be distracted from

the gorgeously dressed populace,

who

gathered in fright-

ened groups about the doorways and peered eagerly at us

from well-guarded corners, for this was Easter Monday

and we had arrived

just as service

was over

in the little

church.

"Oh, do go
we

loitered

we begged from the back seat; so

long ascent until we had scanned each

slowly,"

on the

picturesque peasant to our heart's content.

"In

these marshes," said the Leader, pointing toward

"
Vrana,
many ancient stone pipes have been discovered.

They

are believed to have been part of an aqueduct which

Trajan built for the Roman colony at Zara. For similar

pipes have been found on the shore near Borgo Erizzo and
Zara Vecchia and in the ruins on top of the hill Kastelj,
above the Lake of Vrana.

Here near Biba was a spring

which probably supplied part of the water."

Near

the thirty-ninth kilometer post

8i

we

spied a stately

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

chateau or fortress on a summit at our

I

Instinctively

right.

reached for Baedeker and sighed as I remembered

inadequate he
'*It

is

in the interior of

must be the

Dalmatia.

castle of Perusic," explained the Leader.

"I don't think we can

see

Asseria, although they

must be near.

important

"The

cities of

how

from here the famous ruins of

It

was one

of the

Liburnia, Pliny says."

Castle of Perusic, a most imposing pile of mediaeval

fortification

which

is

often mentioned in the warfare of

Turks and Venetians during

the sixteenth century,

I believe, still partially habitable.

It

seemed

and

is,

to consist of a

square enclosure with curtain walls and towers, and a huge

castellated building within."

(Jackson, 1885.)

Beside a wayside fountain, a

woman stood

grace, twirHng her spindle rapidly.

in unconscious

magpie disturbed

by our clatter flew slowly before us. The dusty diligence

from Benkovac to Knin passed us; and suddenly we realized that the Karst had been driven back to the hilltops,

and once more ploughed

and

flower-

Morpolaca River on our

the shallow lake of Prokljan, and as we

ing elms surrounded us.

right flows into

The

fields, fruit-trees,

tiny

begin the ascent, following the northeast boundary of the

marsh, Mt. Ostrovica rises on our left.

Here our further progress

curious buttress of rock, but as
hesitation, a carriage

( !)

is

apparently blocked by a

we slow down

appears from behind

landau, brown and rusty,

is

not only

in

it.

filled to

momentary

This ancient
overflowing

with crimson-capped countrymen, but bears upon

load of

"knobby

"
articles,

its

top a

presumably potatoes, guarded by

82

SCARDONA SEBENICO
a vociferous small dog. The horses are too weary to be
frightened and pass us without lifting an ear.

We

continue to travel over foot-hills, amidst herds of

The women

grazing cattle, sheep, and goats.

the doorways of their huts and the

rumble through the gray

pine grove

we

men

courtesy from

Just beyond a

village of Zavic.

perceive the ruins of Bribir on an eminence in

At the Ponte de Bribir the road to the

the distance.

goes on to Knin, that to the right to Scardona, which

goal.

but

we

doff their caps as

is

left

our

In the Middle Ages this was an important corner,

now

there

is

nothing here but a tumble-down inn where

two or three peasants are lounging.

Was

not this Province the ancestra^

Stephen, Count of Bribir,

Slavonia and Dalmatia?
rulers of the country,

who
His

in 1247

home

famous

was created Ban

successors

under various

of the

titles,

were

of

virtually

during the follow-

ing hundred years. Indeed, by 1308, when Charles Robert

became King of Hungary, the then Count of Bribir, Paul, was

not only

Ban

Count

of Croatia but ''succeeded in getting himself

towns of Trali, Spalato, and

Sebenico." I suppose that means he was allowed the privilege of protecting them with his soldiers from any other foe.
elected

Zara alone

of the maritime

still

swore allegiance to Venice; but

persuaded, after three years, to throw

elect Paul's

son Mladin to govern

it

also

was

off that

yoke, and to

Mladin

is

it.

a fascinat-

ing hero; indeed, the history of these Counts of Bribir would

form by

itself

a volume well worth reading.

Looking back from the modern

village

enjoyed a splendid panorama of the

83

hills

of

Bribir,

we

and vales we

MOTORING
had

THE BALKANS
The road improved. Near Krcma these

traversed.

IN

and extraordinary combinations of consonants

we met two wagons loaded with hogsheads
deHght me
of wine.
The drivers were resting within the inn and
fantastic

we dared

At the

not try to pass without notifying them.

sound of our horn they rushed pell-mell from the house,

shrieking directions at us and jerking their horses' heads,
quite beside themselves with fear;
this

commotion very

For

quietly.

but the horses took

five kilometers

all

more we

rode through alternate lands of plenty and barren waste,

then crossed a small river and entered Scardona, stopping

before a building where a sign read ''Restaurant Buljan."

We
We

within the tonneau looked at each other in dismay.

were hungry, too

but

tremely doubtful whether

here

It

we could

seemed

to us ex-

possibly find anything

was past twelve o'clock. The Leader

had already dismounted and had disappeared through the
eatable here.

But

dark doorway.
gathered about

it

crowd, mostly

us.

Polite

men

in fine old costumes,

but curious, they discoursed

together in a tongue beyond our comprehension.

at the inn, too, they
to

spoke nothing but Slavic?

Suppose

We

began
be more and more concerned as we waited for our chieftain.

But when he did return, with smiling reassurance he explained that he had been ordering our luncheon in a mixture
of

German and

Italian, that the place

was

n't at all

bad and

he thought that we might be very comfortable.

"Where can

much

as

put the motor?" he asked, by signs as

by spoken word,

"Why,

here."

And

willing

84

hands opened a shed door

in

A TYPICAL COSILMK
(scardona)

^t..^

\':^

.-i>

A BRILLIAXT CROWD. SCARDOXA

THE FERRY ACROSS IHK KRKA

SCARDONA SEBENICO
the wall, hastily

moving out an

cumbrous

The

car.

ox-cart to

make room

for

our

chauffeur carefully measured the open-

ing so that there might be no possibility of accident, and

amid the awed admiration

motor into

of the populace he

backed the

temporary home.
We, meanwhile, had stumbled up the dim but spotless
stairway and found a neat room for our wraps and a quiet
its

The

corner for our mid-day meal.

but palatable, especially

dishes were pecuHar

soup and a dessert called

the

Dolce Grj

But

keep away from the queer, box-Hke,

double windows, beneath which the red-capped natives
sauntered up and down, the light reflecting from their silver
I could not

buttons and giving more color to their gay sheepskin coats

and

mustered up courage to ask one

of these splendid creatures to pose for me.
How kindly and
courteous they were
Although we must have been equally
silken sashes.

I finally

objects of curiosity to them,

no crowd followed us as we

wandered through the Hmited streets of the tiny town, but

if we needed advice or assistance
they were eager to be
of use.
It

was

important

difficult
city,

to believe that

that she shared with Salona

honors of capital.

To

be sure, that was

maritime Illyricum about A. D.

down upon

her,

Scardona was once an

and

after

9.

and Narona the

in the

The Avars

days of

first

swept

639 she seems to have been thrown

back and forth between the Latins and the Slavs

for centuries.

She was rebuilt only to be sacked and burned again, until

it is not
surprising that nothing now remains of her former
85

MOTORING
greatness.

IN

THE BALKANS

Pillaged by our

1607, she revived, only to

grewsome friends, the Uscocs, in

be condemned to final destruction

But there must be something very

tenacious about the inhabitants of this small town.
She

by Napoleon

in 1809.

purchased her safety by the payment of an enormous fine

and has already developed a profitable silk industry. Surely,

some day, she will be able to utilize the enormous water

power which the Krka represents, and so become again an
important commercial centre.

We

had heard that there was a

could cross the

Krka River, but whether or not

was the question.

Restaurant Buljan we had arrived

the automobile

stream and were inspecting the

sides

which lay

cautiously

at the

we ran up on

not perceptibly sink.

quay.
it,

and

flat

It

to

at the

broad bed of the

barge with

its

protecting

looked very small, but

shepherd draped in

bent, standing, to the oars.

The

would carry
In four minutes from the
it

my surprise, at

kabanica came aboard, and three

the wide river.

on which we

ferry here

men

least,

it

did

brown

his

of varying aspects

Slowly the boat swept out upon

sensation

was not an altogether

ing one to the feminine portion of the party.

pleas-

rope, or

chain, stretched across from shore to shore, would have

inspired us with confidence, but no such guidance

was

at

hand, and the creaking craft seemed to make small headway

against the strong current.

The Leader, perhaps

to divert

our minds from the swirling water, called our attention to

the fact that although Scardona lay just behind the pine-

dotted

cliffs it

ested in

was

my kodak

The boatmen were

invisible.

so inter-

that at times they almost forgot to row.

86

SCARDONA SEBENICO
Why

is

world over, at sight of a camera the

that, the

it

whole body involuntarily stiffens?

Although it seemed much longer

it

was only

fifteen

minutes from the time we stopped to enter the ferry before

we had

up the other bank of

incline we were surprised,

started

the steep

the Krka.

Ascending

bend

in the road,

at a

by a charming view of Scardona and Lake Prokljan. For

miles and miles, on either side of this highway to Sebenico,
the government has planted double rows of young trees on
this otherwise

the future

barren tableland.

and the road

We, however, wish

turn to our

and narrow route

yawns

apart,

we

are

leave the car

roaring

first

famous

to the north.
far

down

on a

level

How

thickly planted with

shrub which looks

Suddenly the

in the

flat

tableland

canyon appears a rushing

in four long

winding loops

to various viewpoints

beautiful

Lombardy

like

of the ELrka, so

with the river above the

and walk on

waters.

falls

opportunity and follow a rough

The road drops down

stream!
until

and

a wise provision for

a joy to the motorist.

to see the

the

left at

is

It is

it

is!

falls.

We

below the

The banks

are

poplars and groves of a

sumac or ailanthus and whose twigs

are covered with bursting red buds.

"In

fifty

years the river has not been so high,"

we

are

told.
It is

amazing how the small islands of

withstand that tumbling, crashing torrent.

in the Dinarian Alps near

the

Krka descends

cades;

Knin

trees

From

and
87

its

source

to the sea-level at Sebenico

in alternating level pools

this is the eighth

and grasses

last

and high

cas-

one and has been thus

MOTORING

by Mr. Jackson

described

THE BALKANS

IN

book on

well-known

his

in

Dalmatia:

"The

falls

are on a really magnificent scale, reaching in

various interrupted

damp

cascades

across the

all

valley.

The

mist they throw

and the

vegetation,

up has encouraged a luxuriant

v;hole is embosomed in rich copses,

through which there peeps in every direction the

numerous smaller cascades leaping down

stream below.

The

river does not

silver of

to join the

main

pour over the ledge

one unbroken sheet, as at Niagara, but

in several

in

independent

cascades of various widths, the largest of which cannot be

much
the

less

falls,

than 200 or 250

at

is

said to be 170 feet.

The upper

magnificent, formed by two streams falling together

an angle and uniting as they

perhaps the

finest of all,

and throwing up clouds

fall,

thundering

of spray, in

but the lowest

down

curves above the swirling waters as

rock-girt stream

we

into a great basin

only a ten-minute run from the

circling in lovely

left

and mounted once more

the bed of the

to the tableland.

comer where we regain

the highway to the hotel at Sebenico, for the road

Passing a modern

broad Krka where

fortification,

we

fall is

which we saw a rainbow."

Our own blue-backed swallows were

It is

total height of

which are broken into several steps divided by

stretches of glassy rapids,

fall is

The

feet across.

get a

is

excellent.

charming view

of the

merges into the sea, the islands beyond,

and Sebenico crowned by its mediaeval castles. Down a
it

long, straight, stone-paved street

we

go, turn sharply to the

right beside the Public Garden, cross the Marina, and stop

at the Hotel de la Ville.

88

SCARDONA SEBENICO
No

one appeared in answer to our persistent tooting, so

the Leader entered the deserted

It

was

guest?

the hour of the siesta

The

sleepy porter

doorway

how

was

to reconnoitre.

could one expect a

finally

aroused and per-

suaded to take our bags up to some rooms facing the sea.

Could we have some drinking water? He would inquire.
Soon after, I heard the faintest murmur at my door and the
fat

landlady stole softly in without knocking, carrying a

bottle of mineral water nearly as

she said, and

the

round as

the handle of the door

wind slammed

it.

came

herself.
off in

'^Prego,^^

her hand as

Nothing daunted, she went for tools

and was soon back, bearing wire and a cutter with which she
deftly fastened it on again.

The

landlord, the chef, the porter, even the

chambermaid,

assisted at the important function of ordering our dinner.

The market-place was before the door and fresh peas looked
very tempting. The rest we left to their discretion.
was only a little past four, none of us were tired, so
we went out to get an impression of the town. How absoIt

lutely different

is

this port of

Sebenico from the one at Zara!

Neither could anything be more diverse than the appearance

of the

two

cities.

The

flat

peninsula of Zara, with

its

and towering campanile, only serves as a

charming contrast to this terraced town mounting the hillIn
side, with its domed cathedral and dominating forts.
encircling walls

the large land-locked harbor a training ship

was anchored,

and through the tortuous channel sailed grimly a man-of-war.

Near the pier lay a half-submerged steamer which had gone

down

the

week

before.

Already the wreckers were at work

8(,

MOTORING
An

raising her.

THE BALKANS

IN

enterprising photographer with a studio

overlooking the scene had taken advantage of his location

to secure

good pictures at different stages of the disaster.

This was a bit of Western enterprise most surprising in this
Eastern land.

The
by an
the

pictures, as well as the ship

interested

crowd

itself,

of country folk.

women were more sombre

were surrounded

The costumes

of

here, although the red streak

below the coarse brown serge petticoat and the orange kerchief, topping the loose brown sleeveless sack, gave a touch
of color,

which added

and bodice.

The

to the effect of the full white sleeves

red caps of the

men were

smaller than

any we had yet seen. The seams of their brown jackets

w^re corded with magenta and the front covered with many
rows of crinkly magenta fringe. These coats opened over
double-breasted embroidered vests set with filigree silver
buttons.

In the Public Garden

maseo, who

is

a statue erected to Nicolo

Tom-

died in 1874, aged 72 years.

"I wonder who he was!"

murmured

the Enthusiast.

Slowly and impressively the list of this celebrated man's

attainments was read aloud, thereby causing the Enthusiast
to blush for her ignorance.

historian, poet,
tician,

and

novelist,

orator.

He

''A

critic,
left

philologist, philosopher,

psychologist, statist, poli-

nearly two hundred works."

Surely his fellow-countrymen appreciated

honored him in

Up

gladly

this his native place.

from the quay we toiled, catching a

the apse above a band of curiously carved heads

flights of steps

glimpse of

him and

90

I.\

IHIO

MARKEl-PLACE, SKBEXICO

THE ROWS OF HEADS ON THE CATHEDRAL APSE

THE PLEASAXT-LOOKIXd LIOXS AT THK (WrHEDRAL
DOOR, SEBEXICO

SCARDONA SEBENICO
before

we reached

the picturesque piazza where the cathe-

These sculptured heads are extremely

dral stands.

inter-

esting, as they depict the different types of the period, princes,

scholars, courtiers,

and peasants, both Slavic and

Italian.

Across the square extends the open loggia of a casino, and

wind up more stone-paved paths, which

disappear under archways leading to houses on steep terA Venetian window or door-frame at odd corraces above.
from either

side

ners gives one a

from the farther end of

Krka, broadening as

and looking down

the square, once more we see the

of reminiscent joy,

thrill

it

nears the sea.

pelting rain sent us

home

"home"

being
wherever our bags happened to be unpacked. By the dim
light of a single electric bulb I looked about my large apart-

ment.

had been the parlor of the hotel, for the

curtains and grand piano imparted an air of ele-

Evidently

red velvet

again,

it

gance to the simple bed and washstand. Later on I made a

Beneath the flimsily constructed floor
further discovery.

was the restaurant, and the day being a holiday the merrymakers were driven by the rain from the terrace, where
usually they sang their songs of joy, to take refuge in that

warm and
in tune,

came

mugs and

Ringing voices, not too well

comfortable spot.
to

my

drowsy

an undertone

gradually diminished

as

ears, with the clink of

of

lively

"wee sma'

the

nigh, until finally only one reveller

ling all alone

is

conversation.

was

left,

hours"

and as

heavy
This

drew
revel-

wearisome work, even he subsided and

quiet reigned.

The

next morning

it

was
91

still

raining and

we thought

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

The market

dubiously of the roads.

in the square before

our windows, however, opened in good season, the tenders

of the booths, mostly

now and

just within the drip-

cannot say that trade was brisk, but every

ping awnings.

women, standing

then a customer with yawning basket would appear

and would bargain with as much deliberation as

if

clothing

were impervious to slanting showers.

we go on

"Shall

mud and water?"

to-day, in spite of

and I quoted
''Why not wait until the afternoon?"
my favorite maxim: ''Rain before seven, clear before
eleven."

In this case I was

had stopped and we

by ten o'clock the rain

justified, for

sallied forth for

new

experiences.

Now

we appreciated the stone-paved stairways, for the rain had

washed them clean and by proceeding slowly, we managed
to climb to the cemetery just beneath the ancient fort of

San Giovanni.
gate
us,

We

stopped to take breath at

and a dozen dancing

little

demons

in rags

its

locked

surrounded

begging for coins.

"The key?"

Two

dirty youngsters

after

the

with

outstretched

custode, returning

forthcoming

first,

and returned

hands.

which

to their

down

darted

up

the

'"''Eccol

"

hill

steep incline

an incredibly short time

But no! The key must be
in

fact they

gambling

accepted philosophically

for pennies.

time before the healthy figure of a young

iously

the

It

was some

woman came

labor-

carrying an iron key over a foot long.

cried the small

band

their dirty palms.

92

of robbers, thrusting forth

SCARDONA-SEBENICO
We

"Patience!

must get some change

said the

first!"

Leader.

They could

''Very well."

The

esting.

as

we

old

wait, their

game was

custode carefully locked the gate behind her

entered the cemetery, and went

up

to the foot of the

Here we obtained a magnificent view

fortifications.

over the city and the splendid harbor with

heights.

It

inter-

was a

restful place, the lilacs

its

surrounding

our

first lilacs

were sweet with blossoms and primroses starred the grassy

banks.
''I

wonder what Sebenico means,"

"Was

Enthusiast.

it

"No," answered
"Sebenico

not of

is

a Croatian town.

Roman

colony, too, like

or Sebenico

Roman

origin, but

According

after 1127,

Zara?"

is first

to traditions,

spoken of as

some brigands

and surrounded

it

hence the name Sibenik in Slavic,

Sihiie,

in Italian.

when

the

the Leader, half-reading, half-relating.

built a fort here, overlooking the sea,

with a paHsade, or

idly ventured

It

did not

become important

until

the Croatian city of Belgrad (Zara Vecchia)

being destroyed by the Venetians, the inhabitants took

refuge here, and in 1298

it

was made a

became Latinized and although

sieges and changes of masters, in
it

arts

and sciences flourished

in Dalmatia.'

"Oh!

it

Gradually
from various

bishopric.
suftered

the sixteenth century the

in this city

more than

in

any other

In this period the cathedral was built

"

should like to see the cathedral again," ex-

claimed the Enthusiast.

So duly rewarding the waiting gamins, we descended

the countless steps and once more looked upon the creamy
93

MOTORING
walls of the
portals,

Duomo,

THE BALKANS

IN

lingered before

its

splendid Gothic

admiring especially the two pleasant-looking lions

which guard the northern entrance. The barrel roof is

constructed entirely of stone, which forms the inner ceiling
as well.

The dome, also, is of stone.

Indeed, neither timber nor

brick are used in any part of this noble building.

time has mellowed to an ivory

the ancient walls
postures,

and

and

lent

tint the

Within,

marble choir

seats,

railings supporting tiny lions in various

deeper shadows to the richly foliated

band which, at the ceiling, encircles the church. But the

famed baptistery, elaborate as it is and rich with much
exquisite detail, leaves one with a sense of confusion

disappointment

We
rolled

roads.

and

emerged to find the sun shining brightly, the clouds

away, and a wind which promised to dry the country
Could motorists ask

for

94

more ?

CHAPTER

VIII

SEBENICO VIA TRAU TO SPALATO

npHERE

a railroad from Sebenico to Spalato and up

is

"with two trains daily," we were proudly

informed; ''making the entire distance of fifty-six and oneto Knin,

half miles in three

and one-half hours!"

to Spalato goes via Zitnic,

Is there
little

no other way?

Oh,

yes, there is

a road; but

used, going over the Boraja direct to Trail

to Spalato.

ions

But the highway

an extremely roundabout route.

Is

differed

it

as

it is

and thence

motor that way? Well, opinsome asserting it was all right

possible to
to

that,

and others assuring us

that

could give us any details.

it

was bad; but

After thinking

it

neither side

over

we con-

cluded to try the shorter route, following the railroad until

beyond Vrpolje. The road-bed is firm and dry. By the

wayside blooms the ever-present genista, with asphodels and
pink anemones; fruit and fig trees are bursting into leaf.

"Oh, do

see that

mass of yellow by the railroad track!"

says the Enthusiast.

"It

is

a new flower!

Can't we get

some?"
"Probably we
as

shall see

we speed onward;

it

again," comforts the Leader,

for fields

and ditches and fences

separate us from those coveted blossoms.

however, we do
day, although we

not

see

Curiously enough,

them again during

look industriously for them.

returning from the source of the Jadro,

95

we

the whole

Later, on

find quantities

MOTORING
of

them

Some

THE BALKANS

IN

a marshy spot amidst thorns and brambles.

in

we gather and send to a wise man

order to learn their name and habit.

across the

of these

ocean, in

But

to return to

our Spalato route.

proves of the same

It

type as on the other side of Sebenico, desolate gray

hills

with

At an angle in the road

a church with many sheds confronts us, but no houses or
people are in sight not a wheel-track can be discerned on
occasional patches of green grain.

the whole well-graded

Sometimes low-growing

highway.

color to the roadbed.

We

cross a substantial five-arched stone bridge over the

now

coarse grass gives a touch of

nearly dry bed of a mountain stream;

railroad, enter

alone

and, leaving the

a canyon where sage-brush and shaggy goats

us.

accompany

Ascending very gradually by this forsaken government

road, we come suddenly upon an oasis of almonds and figs,

How beautiful

olives, cherries,

and

habitation can

we

them here

the midst of these

in

vines.
see,

yet

it is!

No human

some one must have planted

boulder-covered

fields.

garden spot we are once more traversing the

hilltops, up and down, in apparently aimless wandering;
the road, no longer good, is covered with sharp bits of rock,

Leaving

this

at sight of

which the motorist

shivers.

and a sound of running water

Suddenly the car stops

under the machine

What

is

radiator!

indeed!

that?

consternation

strikes

In an instant both

men

to

our hearts.

are out.

It is

the

That would be a catastrophe

There follow moments of tragic suspense when

Can

it

be cracked

each imagination travels

far;

for

96

if

this

be true

it

means

at

SEBENICO TO SPALATO
least

And where ?

a week of waiting.

automobile

or sleep in the

by the wayside

fancy hordes of ravening wolves,

ravening,

or possibly

a bear creeping

and across the desolate

laughs

at

fields!

there

forebodings;

to

camp
I

Already

can

of course, they would be

heights

our

we have

Will

down

those rocky

But the Leader

no bears

are

Dal-

in

matia, nor wolves, nor wild animals of any kind except

coyotes

the fact that

we have

seen no village since leaving

Vrpolje, miles back, would indicate that

we must soon come

oxen could draw the car there by taking time, and

the priest or school teacher or mayor of the town would

to one;

take us in while the chauffeur went to Trieste, or possibly

further, for the

needed

parts.

Meanwhile, an examination
the rubber connection which
"

and

announces,

adhesive tape.

we can

get a

can

That

new

is

is

being made.

"

It is

only

broken," the chauffeur finally

fix it all

right.

will last until

'11

wind

with

it

we reach Spalato and

piece of rubber there."

Sighs of relief are exchanged by the sitters in the rear

seat.

"But we cannot run without

water, and there

is

not a

drop left in the radiator," continues he.

At this, our eyes search the wide horizon; as before, there
is

not a house in sight.

We

have not met one solitary per-

son the whole distance from Sebenico,

riding or walking!
his repairs,

cannot

still

The

chauffeur

no sign of help;

is

either driving

or

rapidly completing

stir

from the spot we

"Of

course there must be some one within a mile or two

97

MOTORING
who

THE BALKANS

IN

cultivates these stony pastures so carefully enclosed,

but this

not be his day to

may

them," remarks the

visit

Leader.
Is

tance at

answer

in

it

last

machine

to our united longing that in the dis-

appears a shambling lad

in curious contemplation,

He ambles up to the

but the Leader imme-

from under the seat and points

all directions and shaking his

diately extracts the canvas pail

to

emptiness, looking in

its

This language

head.

is

universal.

With eager gesture the

Slavonic youth points to the mountains;

sent

him with

the pail, he stretches his

extent to signify the distance;

the task.

We

but

watch him running

is

and, as

arms

to their

finally

swiftly

we

pre-

utmost

persuaded to

down

leaping wall after wall in his flight across the

the road,

fields, until

he disappears in a hollow where trees denote the presence of

the precious well.

The birds
fer is getting

sing blithely, the afternoon

on

successfully,

is

young, the chauf-

and we wait

for the reappear-

ance of our Heaven-sent help.

there will be

little

first,

he runs, coming back,

water in the pail by the time

knows enough

also, unless he

If

it

reaches us

to soak the canvas thoroughly

the contents will soon leak out;

are, as usual, utterly unnecessary.

but our forebodings

From

afar

we watch

him

cautiously climbing the stone walls, deliberately walk-

ing

up

and our enthusiastic reception of

brimming pail seems to surprise as well as

the long road,

him and

his

please him.

Of

course, a

radiator; but

small pailful of

water does not

by some mysterious process

98

fill

the

of mind-reading,

SEBENICO TO SPALATO
the Leader

manages

to learn that only a kilometer or so

beyond there is a wayside well with plenty

and we prepare to go on.

how

Noticing

sit

down

at his feet in

it

and cautions the

chauffeur to run slowly, so as not to frighten him.

run slowly; but, whether from

fright or

We

because this

stopping-place, suddenly the boy steps off as he

We

it,

he eyes the car, the Leader

wistfully

motions the lad to

of water in

is

do
his

would from

on the rough road,

luckily away from the machine; but by the time we have
stopped and backed up to him he has risen, rubbing his
his ox-cart!

scream as he

rolls

bruised elbows and protesting that he

and we

is

not hurt, though he

need of language to exEvidently when too late, he underpress our sympathy.

stands his miscalculation and bears us no ill will, and in
looks a

five

trifle

pale,

feel the

minutes we are stopping at the wayside well

at the foot of

an embryonic

in

an oasis

village.

Out from every doorway, down the steep hill, pour

Such a
the entire population, men, women, and children!
we
have
Different costumes from any
brilliant procession!
yet seen!

It is

And

bewildering!

with what keen apprecia-

tion these people enjoy the species of circus chariot brought

own

to their

doors.

gorgeously gowned young

woman,

evidently a bride, does not stop to drop the big cloak she
is mending, but follows down the hill to see the wonderful
sight.

The

others take a lively interest

brought forth and

assist

me

when my kodak

in posing her.

is

Silver coins

almost cover the front of her sleeveless jacket and her white
kerchief

is

spotlessly clean.

She
99

is

almost as attractive as

MOTORING

IN

THE BALKANS

the unconscious shepherd with his kid tucked under his

arm.

"I never can get used

to those silly pancake-like caps

on

men!" murmured Madame Content-

these broad-shouldered

"Do

you see that one has an

his on!"

elastic, at the

After this pleasant interlude

back, to keep

we bowl over

with higher mountains rising on either

sterile

side, the

hills

road con-

few scattered shepherds watching

their flocks are our only companions until, at the end of a
stantly

improving.

long straight road, we reach a precipitous

and stop

cliff

in

keen delight. Far below us lies the sea-girt city of Trail,

with its mediaeval walls and towers rising picturesquely
from the water; and, beyond, the cloud-flecked peaks
of

the

Dinarian Alps.

a fairy-like port,

it

and clustered houses.

is

Two

miniature

Seghetto, with

The

approach
steepled church

ships

its

islands of Solta, of Brazza,

even of Lesina, are gradually disclosed as we

slip

and

down

in

long loops through pine nurseries and fields of fragrant

lentils.

The

descent

are so splendid
is

is

not always smooth;

but the views

and varied that any discomfort

of that kind

soon forgotten.
Crossing ''the silver streak of sea that saved the city

from the Tartar hordes," we stop before the Porta di Terra

Firma and dismount to see the city of Traii, or Trogir.

From

the

masonry

of this gate a cypress

bush has sprung,

which, according to local superstition, miraculously flourishes to hide the sculptured lion of St.

symbol of Venetian domination.

lOO

Mark,

that hated

Bits of Italian architecture

^^-^t'-v^..-

THE

STOW ROAD TO TRAU

SUCH TINY CAPSl

IIIK

l.lll'Ll':

tvID

SEBENICO TO SPALATO
from neighboring walls and dark,

us

greet

corners; a charming balcony,

still

mysterious

well preserved; a group

of quaint, arched windows; a well-curb in a tiny square;

as

we wander through
It

city,

is

the deserted, dusky, narrow streets.

but a short distance,

the

Piazza dei Signori,

really, to the centre of the

where

rises the splendid

cathedral, the loggia or open-air Court of Justice, the clock-

tower, and the Palazzo

all

of the fourteenth

The

a wonderfully interesting spot.

It is

century.

Communale,

grace-

campanile above the Galilee porch of the great church

calls us with irresistible force, and we enter the round, arched
ful

doorway and stand

transfixed with admiration before "the

the glory not of

sumptuous western portal of the nave,
Trau only, but of the whole Province, a work which in
simplicity of conception,

and marvellous
in

combined with richness

finish of execution,

Romanesque or Gothic

1240,

its

naive bas-reliefs give us

and costumes
entrance

art."

still

or more

of detail

has never been surpassed

(Jackson.)

many

Erected in

pictures of the

life

huge lions guarding the

''No nobler
preserve their original charm!
of that period; the

impressive

beast

was ever conventionalized by

mediaeval fancy."

As we

enter the cathedral our eyes are lifted uncon-

walls lighted but

sciously to the lofty ceiling above the gray

dimly by the narrow windows and "great western rose."

At the farther end rises the elaborate haldachino over the
altar with the octagonal pulpit

tury choir stalls before

What

and beautiful

fifteenth cen-

it.

endless ingenuity of design, what careful and delilOI

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

what playful fancy went towards the forthe stalls in the mediaeval cathedrals! Not only

cate execution,

mation of

each church individual, but almost each sculptured seat,

and a study of these curious carvings alone would fill a
is

One

bulky volume.

is

constantly surprised in Dalmatia,

which, some way, seems

these
zation,

to

to belong to

Italian

find

edifices

an Oriental

civili-

created

often

by

native architects, who, having absorbed the art of their

Italian neighbors, developed

an amazing

Across the square from the

so recently restored that

its

Duomo

bright

new

skill.

stands the loggia,

roof of

tile

presents

a somewhat incongruous aspect in contrast with the ancient

rail and columns.
The stone table of the judges is still in
its

original position

present lion of

wall behind
lazzo

St.

it.

Mark

Beyond

Communale,

its cortile

on a dais

at the east end,

and the omni-

down from

in high relief looks

the quaint clock tower

also happily restored

is

the

the Pa-

and containing

in

a delightful out-door stairway, reminding one of

the Bargello in Florence.

dirty streets

we

stroll to

Through

the dark,

the bridge leading

somewhat

over to

Bua,
where we have a view of the striking Castel Camerlengo.
This island of Bua, Bavo, or Boa, in Slavic Ciovo, is
almost ten kilometers long, and protects the entrance to the
ancient port of Salona.
place of exile.

It

was used by the Romans as a

Later, one of the ancestors of the historian

Lucius endowed a Franciscan monastery here. In 1432

the city of Traii built a refuge for the Benedictines, which

became a
is in

favorite place of pilgrimage, but

now

this shrine

a ruinous condition and shelters but two monks.

102

SEBENICO TO SPALATO
There

is

always a feast of color and movement along

the quays of these island cities

and we are loath

to leave,

but Spalato must be reached before nightfall, and soon we

are on the

wing again, amidst flowering snowballs, century

blossom, and all the luxuriance of a Mediterranean

plants in

Mignonette grows wild along the way under

vegetation.

The

the apple-trees that are bouquets of perfumed bloom.

road

by the French, but following the old

Roman road running close to the sea, at first, then back
among vineyards and orchards through the Riviera of the
is

excellent, built

This

Sette Castelli.

district takes its

castles built as a protection against the

and sixteenth

These

centuries.

Castel

Castelnuovo,

Nehaj,

Luksic, Castel

Cambio

Turks

castles

which grew up about them are

name from seven

called:

Vecchio,

in the fifteenth

and the

villages

Castel Papali or
Castel

or

Vitturi

or Kambelovac, Castel Abbadessa

or Gomilica, Sucurac and Castel.

Other

Castelli there are along the shore in varying stages

of picturesque decay, each with

tiny village, contiguous

and quaint traditions

Stafileo, Andreis, Cega, Quarand Dragazzo, Castel Vecchio is the oldest, founded in

fields,

co,

its

1476 by Cariolanus Cippico with booty gained in the war

against

Mahomet

II.

and here the abbesses used

Sucurac

is

deed of

to

a corruption of Sut Juraj, the Croation for

''

Giorgio.

The most

gift of this

ancient Croat

place

for

11."

(F.

document

and church

Spalato, Pietro III., by the

change

was erected by nuns

spend their summers. Castel

Castel Abbadessa

103

is

to the archbishop of

King Trpimir

H. Jackson.)

existing

S.

in

S,^,^

in ex-

''Wine of the Castelli,

MOTORING

IN

honey of Solta, and milk

which is still true.

As we near
Slavic,

the city

we

of

THE BALKANS
Bua"

is

notice the

an ancient proverb

names become more

and the word "Split" appears on the guide-posts,

to our mystification.

A Roman tomb

close to the roadside,

fragments of bas-reliefs built into modern huts, a column or

antique sculpture put to strange uses,
that

we

are nearing Salona, the ancient

Dalmatia.

We

all

these indicate

Roman

capital of

cross the Jadro with a glimpse of rushing

waters and a willow- fringed bank; glance hastily at Vranjic,

or Piccola Venezia, as

beyond us the
Slowly we

we surmount a low

ridge

and

see just

city of Spalato.
feel

our way past the Porta Aurea, around

sharp corners and along the outskirts of the

reach the sea and the Grand Hotel Belle vue.

104

city, until

we

CHAPTER

IX

SPALATO

CPALATO,

Split,

or Spljet, the largest city in Dalmatia,

has burst the bounds of Diocletian's Palace, in which

was once confined, and is now spreading far beyond.

Her harbor, with Monte Marjan on the west, has been
she

protected by an enclosing mole five hundred and thirty

yards long, extending to the Punta di Botticelle on the east

and forming a sheltered bay where all manner of sea-craft

find safe anchorage.
At one time the Austrian admiralty
were inclined to make

on

this the principal military port,

account of better railroad facilities the preference

fortunately given to Pola.

Our

hotel,

adapted

from a former

city hall,

but

was

faced

quay and many were the scenes we witnessed from

behind our curtained windows. Within its stately loggia
the

the automobile

was kept

in full

view of the

city populace,

both day and night. To be sure, when undergoing renovation it was surrounded by an admiring crowd, but unless
the chauffeur

was there

the people never ventured near

and nothing was disturbed. At the other end of the loggia

we had our meals in the pleasant outer air, and groups of
peasants roamed through the silent square or sat in patient
waiting on post or step or curb.

On

one side of the square

is

the Court

House

a modern

building, soft yellowish tan in color, with light stone trim105

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

mings, and not unpleasing in

Hon heads on

the statues on the roof, the

flagstaffs

and

On

alike.

the jagade, the

the royal shields, are five entrances exactly

the low door-sills

the

coats,

Beneath

quiet outlines.

its

men

sit

beggars muffled in heavy

finding solace in their pipes, the

women

I wonder at first what building posin regarding the men.

sesses such an attraction for city and country folks alike.

narrow curb about the Franz Josef fountain

lounge peasants in picturesque groups. The women have
aprons over their dark blue skirts and tight-sleeved shirts
the

Upon

under the

corded

cloaks about
kerchiefs

bodices.

They draw

them and peer out from

which, concealing the

their

shapeless

the voluminous white

red

roll

on

their heads,

are brought about in a half -Turkish, half-Italian fashion,

so as to almost cover the mouth.

ways

of the

within

its

darkness,

every

then one disappears

sometimes reappearing

come rushing

angrily in each other's face.

They

now and

from the small group.

excited individuals

all.

a survival of Oriental

look anxiously across at the formidable door-

Court House

selected one

it

poor creatures merely cold

tradition, or are the

The men

Is

to

Occasionally a pair of

out, shaking their fingers

Are they quarrelling?

are merely arguing a point at law.

the Tribunale has as

much

beckon a

Not

at

Evidently

fascination for these good people

as for their brothers across the Adriatic.

It is

somewhat

surprising to an American, however, to see a horse brought

forth

from one of these same doorways.

turbaned peasant stalks across the square, stopping to

tap his pipe against his pointed opanka before he fills it
1 06

SPALATO
from that capacious

The woman

wherein his entire stock

belt

him

following respectfully behind

carried.

is

is

sheathed

brown cape with square hanging hood below her

brown kerchief. Many men wear turbans, some dark red,
in a long

some Persian

in

mountains, or

this

is

Are they Bosnians from the

coloring.

relic of the early Illyrian

woman
Can

it

occupa-

What

tion of Dalmatia, about the time of Christ?

is

that

carrying as she moves swiftly across the square?

be a calf ?

It is

and not a small one, either

for

She stops to rest a moment

against the fountain's railing but her burden remains quiet in
her strong embrace.
its

legs

hang

to the ground.

young man has been standing at the

His new red cap,
the Court House for an hour.

nattily dressed

door of

jauntily

awry on

his

locks,

curly

his

embroidered

trousers, silk-fringed jacket, red sash and silver-buttoned

vest

and immaculate,

He

day attire.
in an endeavor
at his watch.

or

is it

betoken a

collarless white shirt

holi-

swings a clumsy umbrella nonchalantly,

show

to
Is

it

his indifference

but furtively looks

some "not impossible She" who

merely a business engagement

with a north wind, and

men don

young Adonis

an hour

later

my

he looks

down

every corner.

tall

He

The

is late,

air is cool,

their overcoats.
is still

waiting.

Half
Still

glances at the big clock in

and yawns unhappily;

he saunters beyond the Franz Josef fountain and gazes
down the broad quay
among all that moving mass of
the church tower as

it

strikes ten,

people where

is

the expected she

Suddenly there

is

a great commotion in the

107

streets

and

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

whose vehement tones seem

voices,

is

tongue

It is

incomprehensible.

to indicate anger,

only a

man

ears.

about nothing!"

What

"Much ado

excitable people these Dalmatians

Orlando waits and Rosalind comes

Between the Court House and the

the square, stand the church

upon

sea,

not.

on

and monastery

new white

Friars have put a brave

this side of

of St. Francis.

jagade and belfry

former creamy buildings, but fortunately have

their

Within that

preserved the beautiful mottled roofs intact.

which ring in and out of season. One exbut to ding in

the hours, and quarters, even,

belfry are bells

pects

It

to be!

Still

The

No.

using the more forcible arts of persuasion to

induce another to lead his donkey for him.

seem

the

not necessarily a fight,

although the sound of blows comes to my

is

if

it

at

a constant hammering at noon,

particularly

seems a

at

trifle

4:45

A.

M.,

superfluous.

fied tone, either,

at 7:25

without

It is

P.M.,

and

apparent reason,

not a solemn and digni-

but a dancing dingle, out of

all

harmony

with priestly functions.

Loading and unloading

at the

quay adjoining the monas-

tery are broad-pro wed native boats;

the sky

thunder clouds and the water suspiciously

heavy with
at the end

is

oily;

of the long stone breakwater, the lighthouse stands outlined

against warm-tinted mountains

full sail is just

harbor

is

far to

quay, this
their

first

in the distance

a ship under

entering the Canale della Brazza.

our

left,

and as we walk toward

it

The

real

along the

morning, we pass quaint Dalmatian boats,

masts draped with fishing nets hung in graceful fashion

io8

CORRIDORS CONVERTED INTO STREETS, SI'ALATO

SPALATO
and each awning-covered deck displaying a tempting
cargo of oranges and lemons. So fascinating are these bits
to dry,

of sea-life that

Facing

it is

this

difficult to tear

harbor

Diocletian's

lies

erected 305 A. D., which,

modern usage,

still

ourselves away.

splendid palace,

in spite of its adaptation to

retains its ancient

charm.

stately

Dalmatian build, when,

at the age of fifty-nine, he gave up the glory of an imperial
which he, first of all Roman emperors, had dared
crown,
palace,

to

indeed,

and
wear,

did

this

great

returned to the obscurity of a private

perhaps, but magnificent obscurity;

the sea-shore covers nine

and a

constructed that even now,

teen centuries,

imagine what
"

so much of

it

Such stupendous workmanship

world, Egyptian Pharaohs,

and was so

on

solidly

the vicissitudes of six-

remains that we can easily

must have been

it

Obscurity,"

for this royal villa

half acres,

after

citi-

*'

zen in the land where he was born a slave.

is

in all its pristine glory.

only for the masters of the

Roman Caesars:

it

has never been

any state of society since that of the Roman Empire

the fourth century and it can never be possible again."

possible in
in

Within

its

walls a city has been cradled;

with

streets,

temples, campanile, market-places, forums, and hundreds of

homes. To be sure, the town has now outgrown these swaddling clothes

but

its

most interesting quarter

lies still

inside

the old palace.

We
through

follow the busy crowd under

its

its

dark archways and

corridors, converted into streets, until

we come

encumbered with a rough shed;

story on

to a tiny piazza

story of scaffolding reaches into the sky.

109

MOTORING
"But

Madame

IN

THE BALKANS

thought we were going to the cathedral," remarks

Content.

*'The jagade of the cathedral," answers the Leader, "is

behind the shed and

this scaffolding encloses the

campanile."

has been in process of restoration for over twenty

It

years, the custode informs us.

may

undertaking;

costly, as well as tedious,

prove successful when finished!

it

No, we cannot enter

here,

we must go back through

This was formerly the vestibule of the palace

and covered by a dome; now it is in crumbling ruins.

the rotunda.

Through narrow lanes and up a flight of temporary steps

we reach a side door and enter what is popularly known as
the

mausoleum

call

it

the

Virgin and

of

Temple

of

Doimo.

St.

Pantheon

tral

in the

only thirty-five

columns.

to

Circular in form,

ly recalls the

opening

although antiquarians
now consecrated the
Jupiter,

Diocletian,

at

dome;

feet,

its

Rome, although
it

is

much

lacks the cen-

smaller, too, being

in the gallery a

word spoken low

Was

an opposite niche can be plainly heard.

arity utilized for oracular

responses?

The

in

this peculi-

pulpit

is

rich

marbles and columns, with capitals of mar-

vellous interlacing

and undercutting.

'Tn point

execution and ingenuity of design, I

art

of technical

know

of nothing in

(T.

G. Jackson.)

them."

to

surpass
Romanesque
is
accredited
with
this work by
Guvina

The

it

three inches in diameter within the

At one point

in vari-colored

interior instant-

late authorities.

carving at the back of the choir

stalls is

curiously

mushrabieh work of Cairo; but the delicacy of the

execution of the whole and the resemblance to the style of
like the

no

SPALATO
show

the great doors

hand.

that they were probably

are said to have been

They

made

from some three centuries

Stefano

for S.

The ends seem

de Pinis, which was afterwards destroyed.

to date

by the same

while a heavy

later;

which adds nothing to their effectiveness, was probably added when the present choir was built and the stalls
brought over, from near the pulpit, where they originally

cornice,

stood.

Later on,
for

the

at

twenty years,

Baptistery,

where they have

lain

we saw the great doors of the cathedral;

the finest specimens of mediae-

"among the earliest as well as

val woodwork in existence."

Fourteen panels, divided by

and knot-work, represent scenes in the life of Christ.

They were executed in 1214 by one Messer Andrea Guvina,
scrolls

a Slav,

if

one

judge by his name,

may

Spalato, and, absorbing the

became a painter
at the Baptistery,

as well as a

we

who

of his adopted

art

famous carver

in

settled in

country,

wood.

Here,

see again the curious stone-arched roof

construction which the architects at Sebenico used with

such extraordinary

The

effect.

entrance to the Baptistery

doorway formed

is

through a monumental

of three stones, the full thickness of the

walls, but covered with exquisite carving.

to

think that

this

delicate

intact through sixteen

storm.

tangular temple

is

sacrificed

its

The

upon

coffered ceiling

siege, sunshine,

and

font, the interior of this small rec-

exactly as
altar,
is

amazing

ornamentation has remained

hundred years of

Except for the

It is

it

was when Diocletian

dedicating

it

to

first

Esculapius.

superb, leaving nothing to be d;isired.

Ill

MOTORING
The

IN

THE BALKANS

which takes the place of the ancient altar, is in

the form of a Greek cross, and was constructed in 15 27- 1533
font,

by the archbishop Andrea Cornelio from panels probably

brought from the cathedral. It consists of fourteen slabs
"of Greek marble with blue veins.

Six of the external slabs

have early mediaeval carvings, one has Roman ornament a

Roman inscription is on the back of another, the rest are
;

smooth back and

front,

and several have been sawn.

They

same height and thickness, but vary in length,

and were part of some chancel enclosure, altar, or sarcophaare nearly the

gus.

The

carvings are probably of the eleventh century,

and are extremely curious. It is possible that they may be

works of Mag. Otto, though the character of the patterns
H. Jackson.) The
fine sarcophagi formerly here have been removed to the
museum, where they are crowded in with a jumble of an-

points rather to the Comacines."

tiquities

(F.

without pretence of installation.

Through a dim
intervals into small

opening

labyrinth of archways,

we
irregular piazzas,

saunter,

at

amus-

ing ourselves by gazing into the tiny shops where cheese and

and embroideries, bread, meat, and gay

are displayed.
We watch the swarthy Morlacchi

pickles, silver filigree

calicoes

with their curious bags of

shoulders, their

snowy

merchandise slung over their

kerchiefs

and

full

sleeves

making

bright spots in the dark shadows of the street.

Following the gay procession we come to the Piazza

dei Signori,
ful

where every angle discloses a new and delight-

a
picture

mediaeval clock tower, a balconied palace,

a stately jagade;

but perhaps most interesting of them

112

all

SPALATO
is

in

the former loggia, a relic of the fourteenth century, restored

1 89 1

and now used as the

Town

In this piazza,

Hall.

an excellent bookstore, where maps and plans and

photographs, besides books and any quantity of useful infortoo, is

may always be obtained.

From the quay a corniced tower

mation,

surrounding roofs and, searching, we found

A new

place.

tower, this,

about 1450, in a

effects.

it

in the

market-

for the Venetians erected

line of fortifications just

it

beyond the walls

Now

a market-place is always a
of local color and kaleidoscopic

of Diocletian's Palace.

fascinating spot,

high above the

rises

full

Aside from the people the booths themselves are

a study and often their contents appeal to a more carnal

sense; for this is a fruit and vegetable market and great
baskets of luscious products are displayed under the sheltering canvas.

The oranges

too

tempting to be resisted and

an enormously fat woman eating from her

sauce-pan what looks like a delicious lamb stew with

stop to
little

are

buy

of

rice.

"Where do you come from?"

I wait for

my change.

and taken the kronen

''From America,"

she sociably inquires, as

small child has suddenly appeared

to

a neighboring shop.

proudly answer, but

taken back when she asks "Which one?"

there

is

no

"From

am somewhat
For usually

distinction at this distance.

Chicago,"

"E h!"

respond.

"Do

you know it?"

she replies, with that expressive intonation

with which the Latin nations adorn their language.

"3

know

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

instantly that she has never been there, but she has heard

of

it.

"Does

this

country please you?"

''Very much," I answer.

"How

long have you been here, in Spalato?"

"Only yesterday we came, but we

are

stay four

to

days."

was now

It

my

and very good

or cooked?"

"Like

this,

"Like

this,

wipe the dust

off

They

the kernel, like

So attractive

pods?"

to eat."

insists that the

small

time returned with the money, shall

this

from four and that

must take them

for

are good, with a thin, sweetish layer around

figs,

is

and she

try one,"

who has by

nothing.

are those blackish

are carob beans

"They

child,

"What

turn.

the

but a

bit

dry unless one

maid

little

is

very hungry.

that I persuade her to stand

in shy dignity for her photograph.

"Marinovic
tion;

K ,"

and the address

When I

she writes in answer to my ques"

?
Oh, Trg Voca
Spalato."

went back, on another day,

woman

pretence of buying, the

"That

friendliness.

remarked, after the

is

old, is

it

"Yes,"
"

Oh,

greeted

me

making no

with stately

necklace,"

she

weather had been discussed.

"It

is

fine

for a chat,

your

beautiful,

not?"
I

answered, "from India."

knew

it

"And yours?"

was
I

old," she asserted.

ventured,

for

she wore a curiously

wrought gold chain with heavy pendants.

"

Mine,

too, is old.

It

was
114

my

mother's mother's

and

perhaps older than

SPALATO
and her
that,"

fat fingers felt of

it

lovingly.

"We
''I

are going

would

like so

much

I regretfully

to stay longer."

exclaimed

as
come again," she calmly prophesied,
Dalmatia were close to far America, and Spalato a station

"But you

if

away to-morrow,"

will

on the great highway.

115

CHAPTER X
SALONA CLISSA
''\X7'HY wouldn't

SOURCE

this

OF THE JADRO

be a good time to see Salona?"

And

asks the Leader on a golden day in Spalato.

Salona we go in
ruins

is

ample
so

said to be unsuitable for the motor;

leisure to

many

to

a native "carriage," as the road into the

thus

we have

admire the elaborate harness with which

Such brave display of shin-

horses are bedecked.

ing brass in rings and cut designs;

almost touching the ground

The

such gorgeous tassels

distance

is

only four miles

and the countryside enchanting with hawthorn hedges,

Stars of Bethlehem, and the white bells of the giant snowdrops,

even

growing,

my

however, in such marshy places that

enthusiasm has to be restrained.

The

sea

is

radi-

ant beneath the stern gray mountains and reflects the towers

and many colored houses on the Riviera of the Sette Castelli

in rippling shadows; on our right the aqueduct of Diocletian extends across the green fields

and

far

ahead looms the

ancient pyramidal fortress of Clissa.

where the Virginia creeper hangs

in charming festoons between antique columns, we turn
sharply toward the ruins and stop at the house of Professor

At an

inn, or, gostiona,

Bulic to secure a guide.

There

is

more

to see at

Salona

had expected, although every ruined city has to be

studied carefully in advance in order that one's imagination
than

may

be able to reconstruct

it

ii6

from the fragments.

We

SALONA-CLISSA
knew

that Salona

was the ancient

"one of the proudest provincial

also that

mouth
look

was

it

Roman

world";

Mt. Kozjak at the

stand on the spot and

the sparkling sea,

but

to

towering mountains, then

at the splendid

much more

cities of the

Dalmatia and

situated at the base of

of the Jadro River

up

capital of

how

different

the

Romans become!

real the

down

How

impression.

On

this

at

same land-

scape they were wont to gaze, over these blue waters came

Did the nightingale sing

their loaded boats!

shine for them, too

And

in the sun-

the white terns sweep in great

curves overhead?

The

ancient city walls have been traced with remains

of eighty-eight towers;

but only the most ardent archaeolo-

gist

would care

to follow their half-buried foundations.

are

interested

in

whose walls are

colonnaded
in the

the

century Christian Baptistery

sixth

several feet high, circular in

still

in the centre is

We

form and

a sunken pool, lined with marble,

shape of a cross and formerly used for immersion.

Roman

Several fragments of

mosaics, carefully covered with

earth as a protection from the sun, are swept bare for our
benefit

by a crowd

of tourists,

of gamins,

who, knowing well the course

keep constantly ahead of us.

The arrangements
Pompeii and plainly
ever,

is

in 639,

of the baths are similar to those at

to be traced.

Most curious

the Basilica of the fifth century, which

when

the Avars burned the city

tants to take refuge

in

the

Recent excavations under the

closed the fact that

it

was

of

was destroyed
of Diocletian.

floor of this Basilica

117

on the

how-

and forced the inhabi-

empty Palace

built

all,

site of

have

dis-

an early Chris-

MOTORING
tian cemetery.

height of the

THE BALKANS

IN

The ground was apparently levelled at the

largest tomb and the church erected upon it.

Stone sarcophagi, with and without

sometimes sculp about

mutilated,

lids,

tured, often inscribed, but always

in

such profusion that

them

difficult to follow the

foundations

The most important ones have been taken

of the church.

museum

to the

it is

lie

although there

at Spalato,

lying end to end in

Suburbana outside the

what

known

is

We

walls.

is

a long row of

as the Necropolis

spent an inspiring after-

ground and brought away a

sprig of the rosemary, growing in abundance between the

noon roaming over

this historic

stones.

One

when

sparkling morning,

the air

by the Salona road up the slopes

raspberries

mild,

Mt. Kozjak

and sweet-brier,

Below

extensive

us, as

until

we mount,

the

rocky

strange,

soil

finally

an occasional

panorama grows more

Jadro, Spalato and the sea with

Salona and the

the far distant islands

The

in long,

Roman

refuses to produce anything but junipers or

pine.

we motor

Via Gabiniana, through olive

and pomegranates, succeeded by flowering

climbing loops, the

orchards, figs

of

is

how

the

magnificent a spectacle

bare peak of

Mt. Mosor confronts us

across a deep abyss; so twisted, so dishevelled by volcanic

action are
like

its

sides that the rock strata lies in great swirls

gigantic oyster shells!

Nearer us on an isolated rock

perched the ruined fortress of Clissa which formerly commanded the pass between Sinj and Spalato. The road has

is

been carried with great

its

skill to

vine-draped walls, and

within a short distance of

we walk up
ii8

the path to enjoy the

MARKETING

IX SPALATO

V:
was^-

'

"51.

H
'%
;\W^i4

'M

& ^^n^SQ^EBHHH

FORTRESS OF

CI.ISSA,

XFAR

SI'AI.AIO

SALONA CLISSA
Below us

splendid prospect.

with

curious

its

campanile of

its

roofs

is

the small village of Clissa,

of overlapping stones;

church stands as a beacon for the workers

on the long slopes of the mountain.

interesting landscape,

Chssa

the white

(in Slavic Klis)

in

rich

It

historical

a wonderfully

is

for

associations;

has been the shuttlecock between

Slavs and Latins, Bosnians and Venetians, Turks, Austrians,

and Frenchmen, each

Beyond

in

turn, for fifteen

the green valley southward

lies

hundred

the Salonian Gulf;

of Solta

from

farther

away

that

wooded hollow

touch Spalato.

''Do you see any road leading

way?"

"Yes, there by the

trace

at

the gently rolling island

the Jadro rises, according to the

map," points out the Leader.

that

water of

and Brazza's towering peaks, then Bua, seeming,

this high level, almost to

"In

by

still

Spalato,

ing sea, with Piccola Venezia reflected in the

years.

the shin-

it

mill;

can't you see it?"

And we

to the Clissa highway.

Without discussion, on our homeward way, we turn aside

the "Gostiona Kate Grubic" and follow the narrow ex-

cuse for a road leading to the source of the Jadro. Before

we

have gone far along it, however, a ford deepened by the recent rains compels us to abandon the car and cross the stream

on stepping-stones. Beyond, the road

is

low and wet; but we

close to the willows thickly planted

keep
and come
spot

at last to the mill of Vidovic.

on the

river

banks

Such a beautiful

thickly overgrown with vines and many

trees.

Wis-

and Judas trees are in blossom; above the stone walls

hawthorn blooms; the combination of violet, rose color,
taria

119

MOTORING
and white,

is

We

along the

THE BALKANS

But the Leader never

exquisite.

hesitates,

not the "source," and he marches resolutely

this, evidently, is

onward.

IN

resist the

way and

wild anemones growing in profusion

follow half-reluctantly, expecting at every

bend

to see the "source"; but instead of

more

brook-like, the Jadro seems to increase in size, the

current
lake.

is

swift,

At

last

and occasionally the

a precipice

river

becoming smaller,
broadens to a tiny

and

rises before us,

at its foot

pours forth from a reverberating cave a tumultuous, tossing

flood
Behold the source
The noise is deafening. Huge
!

down

birds sweep

in circling flight

from the bare

crags.

The

rocky banks are gay with flowering shrubs, genista, wild

daisies,

and calendula.

weight of ivy nourished

first

Two

tiny mills

bend beneath the

by the continual

mist.

sight of these strange subterranean streams

born,

from the mountain-side,

full-flooded,

again at times

beneath a wall of rock.

short career intact

to

It is

our

which are
disappear

The Jadro has a

for its waters are partially diverted into

the aqueduct of Diocletian, six miles long, which again,

since 1879, supplies the city of Spalato.

The

return walk through the country

is

delightful.

On

a sunny slope a shepherdess sings "Dolce Maria" as she

knits, her rich, sweet voice rising

cadence.

The

bread as he

On

child

listens,

and

falling

by her side forgets

and we, too, pause

to

in

melodious

munch

his dry

to hear.

reaching the ford again we discover that the stream

has risen and

all

the stepping-stones are under water.

natives calmly take off their shoes

The

and stockings and wade

over; but the cramping and inconvenient habits of civiliza120

SALONA CLISSA
for

tion prove too strong

Leader

scoffs at

I'm sure

only pair!

us.

What can we do?

wet shoes, not so Her Ladyship.

I

should take cold.

The

"My

No, there must

Thereupon, as if in answer to her

and by gestures we induce the
cry, appears an empty wagon
driver to lay the adjustable sides of his cart on stones across
be some other way."

the

With smiling complaisance he accomplishes

successfully that we cross dry shod and happy.

flood.

this so

The

further south

influence

travel in Dalmatia, the less Italian

Outside of the

visible.

is

we

cities the

language

is

never understood and even in Spalato the notices in our

at the hotel are in Slavic, as v/ell as

rooms

German and

The proper names are very confusing. It is hard

enough to remember one name for each new place, but when
Italian.

forced to memorize two the brain rebels; also, there seem

to be so

many ways

of spelling the

principles of orthography

agree, until finally

same word that one's

become sadly

we decide

to

No

two maps
adopt the phonetic method
lax.

and be content.

One

by motor is that there are

the matter of time, no railway accommoda-

of the joys of travelling

no iron rules

in

rooms engaged in advance; so when Her

Ladyship begs for one day more in Spalato we stay on.
tions or hotel

''Why another day?" asks

do you wish

to

to

the Leader, curiously,

"What

see?"

"Nothing at all," she makes answer, "I want a free day

wander about in, with nothing especial that I must do."
It

is

delightful.

still

We

sunny day and the

even

sit

feeling of

freedom

is

by the window with our sewing, as

121

MOTORING
if

we were

at

IN

THE BALKANS

home, and the Leader reads aloud

to us, re-

viewing what we have seen.

*'I

wonder where

that street leads!" I

say,

casually,

pointing to the corner between the Court House and the

"The

monastery,

country people so often disappear in that

direction."

not go and see?"

"Why

charmed with new

So

suggestions.

in the late afternoon

face a stone-paved street,

This

shallow steps.

mosphere

we

is

we turn

which soon resolves

lined with low houses,

of

is

one of the luxuries of the

us,

us

lies

city.

their

is

transacted in the open

air.

of maritime pine

Gradually

and

juni-

avenues upon the hillside, take

terrace with convenient benches beguiles

laid out

newly

and we

work or play before

in that sociable fashion peculiar to Italy the

the houses disappear and woods

at-

This water, carried into certain elab-

children are at

labor of the house

their place

and the
;

orately appointed baths,

homes, and

into

itself

heavy with odors by no means agreeable for

above the famous Sulphur Springs which here

flow into the sea.

Hordes

and

the familiar corner

is

are just

per, with

urges the Leader, always

a lofty

are well rewarded for our steep climb.

the lovely

bay

Below

of Spalato, glowing in the sun's last

can easily be traced;

rays; the walls of Diocletian's Palace

and the green valley rises Clissa on its solitary

for we are on the fair
peak, with Mt. Mosor beside it
of vines and fig-trees,
slopes of Mt. Marjan, in the midst
and beyond

it

with countless wild flowers nodding in the grass beside us,

and the glory

of

an Oriental sunset transforming the scene.

122

CHAPTER XI
SPALATO TO METKOVIC
'^

"'HIS last

bell

light.

quay.

by the monastery
A
lean from my window.

o'clock, I

five

moon hangs

crescent

coming

at

in Spalato, roused

morning

in the western sky, pale against the

Already the cargo boats are stirring at the

belated blue one, with white

over the water before the fresh breeze.

pushes

off,

under the

fishing-smack

touch of the sun her patched and

changed to a sheet of
toward the island of Solta.

discolored lateen sail

boat glides swiftly

comes dashing

sail,

is

The

yacht enters the port.

sea

is

silver,

as the

trim white

the richest sapphire, the

mountains a rosy tan, at their feet nestle white villages,

Zmovnica and Mravince, and the belfrys of St. Peter and
Luke.

St.

The

men

the
so

they beg

cargo boats are tugging at their ropes,

to hasten with the unloading,

many days

of

this breeze after

calm must not be wasted.

We,

too, are

eager to be on our way.

The Leader

to

upon the motor merely as a means

an end; as a method of transportation, comfortable and

rapid enough,

looks

making

possible

its

We

love the

motor

excursions only acces-

or caravaner.

sible to the walker, bicyclist,

two.

many

for itself alone.

capacious tonneau; sink into

just the right height, with a

its

Not

We

we

climb into

luxurious springy seat,

back which touches

123

so,

just the

MOTORING

and as the car moves gently

tightly,
its

ing

speed until

of perfectly

tells

THE BALKANS

tuck the fleece-lined leather robes about us

places;

right

IN

it

down

settles

off,

gradually increas-

to the steady

we
machinery,

adjusted

day

of our journey

we

exclaim, "Isn't

No

did ozone.
there

is

it

brows unconsciously relax

one ever

much

too

up

to the very

blissful!

Is

Tired heads clear in this rush

there anything to equal it?"

of pure air, knitted

which

look at each

other in sheer sensuous joy of the motion, and

last

hum

in the splen-

feels the obligation of talking,

to observ'e in the near as well as the dis-

tant landscape.

'^Kako
"

se

zove ova

5e/(?

.?

(What

is

name

the

of that

murmur, as we roll along the highway, leaving

Spalato behind us, bound for Ragusa via Metkovic.
"What are you talking about?" asks my companion.
village ?)

"I

am

sounds the

trying

it

best.

in different intonations to see

wish

which

might hear some one say it just

That is where the phono-

would be such a help.

once,
"
graph
it

*Tt must be a holiday to-day," interrupts Her Ladyship.

"Do

see all the peasants

coming

to town.

What

beautiful

costumes!"

Donkeys amble before them, laden with

products in wide baskets or

all

for
saddle-bags,

manner
five

of

kilo-

meters we are forced to run very carefully, often stopping, to

We catch a last glimpse of
avoid frightening them.

by misty mounbounded by Brazza's

Clissa above the green valley, surrounded

tains,

and on our

right the blue sea

rocky heights.
124

y.

2'.

^
tl

WITH WHAT SPLEXDID FREEDOM SHE WALKS!

(ragusa)

SPALATO TO METKOVIC
The

attention of the Leader, however,

the exciting episodes of the road;

is

taken up with

women

for

are leaping

donkeys and dragging them to the safe harbor of

The men, and especially the boys, sit more
the ditches.

from

their

calmly on their small beasts and look in delighted wonder

at our comparatively swift flight.

Crossing the Stobrec River we look back at a pictur-

esque huddle of houses on a rock jutting into a bay.

Stobrec

itself.

Over a small
road, well

ridge, then

down a

marked with kilometer

and

olives,

figs,

straight,

posts

and

lic

hundred
of

Mosor

years,

Poljica

lined with vines,

young pines, we speed.

leaf and planted in rows to

in

the very edge of the gravelly beach;

slopes of Mt.

smooth coast

alternating with

Here the grapes are actually

six

It is

are finely cultivated,

from 1235

until

for

seized

to 1807,
in

the

southern

these

and

for nearly

formed the tiny Repubgrasp

octopus-like

of

France.

The road runs

close to the sea,

bending around

its

sharp

Many cherry
points and curving through tiny hamlets.
and almond trees spring from the rocky soil, for here the
cherry,

known

as marasca, grows wild, from

famous maraschino wine.

the

which

is

made

In one deep cove, whose

vineyards reach to the top of the

cliff,

a tiny chapel dedi-

cated to "Sv. Stipan" stands on a projecting rock, while

near by a solitary

villa flies the national flag.

and the rose hedges are pink with

notice that with every mile southward the

Around another

new

We

leaves.

vegetation

is

point,

more advanced.
125

At

last

before us

lies

the

MOTORING
lovely

of Almissa, with

bay

THE BALKANS

its

little

charming

town, a mere

edge below the cone-like Mt. Dinara.

strip at the water's

From

IN

the precipitous Mt.

Borak the ruined

castle

of

Mirabella looks down, so long the headquarters of a pirate

**

band.

Unassailable by land on account of the barrier of

and protected by the intricacy of

the channel from attack by sea, the Almissan corsairs drove
mountains

at their back,

a splendid trade and robbed every passer-by, even pilgrims

on their way to the Holy Land."

Here we cross the Cetina River, and leaving the sea turn
into a narrow gorge with tremendous cliffs on either side.

The

rains have swollen the river

and formed cascades down

At each turn we expect

the bare precipices.

to find the

road

Sheer crags rise

submerged, so near the water's edge
emerald
beside us, dotted with
spurge (euphorbia biglandstream
the
ulosa); but across the
slopes are gay with pale
is it.

Flocks of swallows

green poplars.

and

closer

the

crags

grows the canyon

approach,

until the road

circle

above

us.

Closer

narrower and narrower

and the

river

fill

it

com-

but this proves to be the entrance to a sunny, open

pletely;

where pines and olives vie with the willows, poplars,

and elms in the green garb of Spring.

valley,

Close to the road, in a grove of forest trees, nestle the

picturesque mills of Vissech (sometimes

man

mills).

rise in

Here

is

route

now

as the

Rad-

evidently a birds' Paradise, for they

bewitching variety as we

Our

known

fly

leaves the Cetina

by.

and turns toward snow-

capped mountains, ascending in eight loops with very sharp

turns but over an excellent road, affording us delightful
126

SPALATO TO METKOVIC
glimpses of the foaming green river far below.

Another

ascending loops with changing shadows on the

mountain sides brings us to the settlement of Kucice. Down

series of

again to the
rising before

asserts

Cetina,

with snowy Mt. Brela (5 117 feet)

"This
us;

Her Ladyship,

is

what /

call

a smiling valley,"

not always agreeing with the guide-

book's adjectives.

No

we passed with due

sooner have

a crowded diligence, than

cessfully,

precaution, but suc-

we encounter

donkeys convoyed by one man.

he beats; every one of those twelve small

three

In vain he tugs, in vain

feet

is

firmly

budge from the centre of the roadplanted; not one

way. Once more our gallant chauffeur must to the rescue,
will

while the Leader indulges in pat, though dignified, remarks

about the cussedness of donkeys in general, and Dalmatian

donkeys

in particular.

on another zig-zag course, we hear

a sound Hke distant thunder, and behold a torrent leaping

As we begin

to rise

down one hundred

over the shelving rock straight

the basin below.

It is the Falls of the

feet into

Cetina, or "Velika

Gubavica," as the guide-posts inform us.

Near the top of our last climb, beneath a

village called

"Banja," a heavily loaded team blocks the way. The

driver gesticulates anxiously and pours forth a torrent of
Slavic syllables.

out;

be

reached;

let

"The

road

is

so narrow he cannot turn

the signori have patience, soon a cross-road will

his

horses

cannot

exhausted by the long pull up the

the very best he can"; and

so,

127

increase

their

mountains he

with

much

speed,
will

do

cracking of the

MOTORING

IN

whip and encouraging

calls,

pace, while

Duare

we

is

follow

up

THE BALKANS
he leads the

at a snail's

the steep grade.

a forlorn, treeless town in the stoniest of stony

Its ancient castle, twice

regions.

way

destroyed by the Venetians,

many times rebuilt by the Turks, is now a ruin. Turbaned men look lazily at us as we pass. Long processions
and

as

accompany us for some distance.

the end of our cross-country road

of ponies, laden with rocks,

But we are nearly at

from Almissa, up the Cetina
point,

to just

At

above Duare.

this

two hundred and seven kilometers from Zara, ac-

cording to the guide-posts, we enter the national highway

from Zara to Ragusa over the Turia Pass, known as the

"Strada Maestra." Soon we make the turn and facing Mt.
Brela go southwest through the country of the Karst. This

more worn than our pleasant river road, and

hollows in the midst of tumbled boulders are small

highway
fertile

is

compensation

for the wild scenery of the Cetina gorge.

But

the chauffeur, enchanted to see five hundred feet of clear

running ahead of him,

and we

sits

firmly in his seat, grasps the

through the monotonous landscape

at such a speed that, when we do pass a small collection of
huts, the faded sign-post is one blur.

wheel

tightly,

''Did you see the

calls

back

"We

name

did

not,''
it

shrieks the chorus.

was Grabovac," and orders are given

for the villages.

As we ascend once more,

with

Leader

of that village?" the

satirically.

"I think

down

fly

fresh

snow,

appear

the Dinarian Alps,

beside
128

us.

to slow

white

At Zagvozd we

SPALATO TO METKOVIC
cross a route

which leads

into the Herzegovina, but

to Imotski

we keep

country along steep inclines and

and over the border

to the right over

hills

a rolHng

covered with a stunted

oak.

was part

this

of the

old

Roman

highway;
is
an
Turia
Pass
but on the top of the
(2643 feet)
inscription
the
Great and
"under
the
Emperor Napoleon
saying that
Probably

under the direction of the viceroy of Italy Eugene, at the

time when Marshal Beaumont was commander-in-chief
in Dalmatia, this route

was opened between 1806 and 1809,

under the technical management

of

General Blancard,

with the aid of the engineers Grljic and Zavorio, and that

from the Croatian

and

frontier to that of

Albania

geographic miles long."

fifty

two hundred

it is

It is interesting to

note

Napoleon employed native engineers; but

we would have known this even if it had not been so stated,
that the Great

so heavy

that one last grade over the summit.

is

What
A new

have been before the recent improvement ?

dressing, some three inches thick, of coarse broken stone

must

it

adds to our

But

if

difficulties.

the ascent seems high from the northern side,

what are our sensations as we view the descent on the other

slope?

top

we

"Slope"
slide

screw loops

is

not

assuredly

the

word!

pay

little

attention to

it;

demands
my admiration, with
make the short turns, how
obeys the
all

it

the brakes!

the

down with screaming brake in eleven corkThe panorama is extensive and inspiring, but

after one glance I

itself

From

the automobile

what surety we
strong clutch of

Will the tremendous friction set

129

it

afire as

it

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

But no!

has the machine of a friend?

end

safety to the

descent.

It

more on comparatively

ourselves once
sure

of the

we run up

and over again, as there

But the road is hard,
grading.

is
if

a comfort to find

level

To

ground.

down on

inclines only to coast

side over
at

is

along in

It sails

not the

be

the other

first

attempt

the pebbles are

many,

and we are making good time when!

''What tire is it?" calmly asks Her Ladyship; and we
dismount

to look at the break.

"What

a fine place for a picnic!" comments the Enthu-

"Here

siast.

beeches.

know

under oaks and feathery

in a flowery field
is

it

early for luncheon, but

hours since we started and

am

is

it

three

hungry."

So the sandwiches are unpacked and a boulder selected

for a table,
ly hidden,

We

behind the tangle of hawthorn.

when a group

of charmingly

gowned

are safe-

girls

gathers

about the automobile.

"I
tween
"

really

ought to try to kodak them,"

mumble

be-

bites.

Oh, they

'11

Her Ladyship,
some sudden
toward the

be there when we have finished," declares

loath to be disturbed; but they are not, for

call starts the

village, while I

say 'T told you so," but

out the entire

am

meet so

so eminently kodakable a

However when,

flock,

sure I think

breadth
length,

matia never again do

into the

and they disappear

I do not
look helplessly on.

whole

it

it;

and through-

has none,

of

Dal-

characteristic, so brilliant,

company!

the tire being nearly ready,

we climb

machine again, some few stragglers happen along

130

SPALATO TO METKOVIC
and

I rather tentatively try

zove ova selo?

(What

discourse,

name

the

is

of this village?)"

all his

into a flood of language

I'll

'^Kako

Slavic sentence:

which shows

brilliant smile,

them breaks

my

se

With

white teeth, one of

delightful, instructive

be bound, but wasted on us

In vain I

all.

look intelligent, in vain the Leader tries to get his attention,

with expressive
and eloquently,
Gently

gestures of appreciation he turns to

I

am

sure

it is

eloquently,

me

tells his tale.

him back, nodding my head in agreement,

Kako se zove? (This village? What is

I lead

but ^^Ova selo?

it

called?)"
^'Rotuji dolac,^' he answers,

and we search

for

it

on the

map. The Leader, with small faith, mentions two villages,

one on either side of us, which the man motions are both
far

away,
''Da

on both ends of the horizon,

u Ragusa,'' reply,
Spalato,

in fact.

thinking that a

one of his questions. That much I can

^^
manage and ''Da America, a word which always brings a
for there is sure
light to the eyes wherever it is mentioned
safe

answer

to

to

be some member

who

has been, or

is

of the family,

going

Leaving the old tire

small boy

we

who

start for

to,

some

friend or neighbor

that El Dorado.

by the roadside,

evidently expects to

make

to the joy of the

his fortune with

Past shrines and guide-posts; by

hills of

juniper and live oak,

with an undergrowth of bayberry; beneath the ruins of

ancient castle where ivy covers the donjonkeep,
enter Vrgorac.
lows' nests,

it,

a fine blue-pointed peak at the end of the valley.

Tiny houses cling to the

and the minute square

131

we

its

finally

hillside like swal-

is filled

with peasants

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

and booths, with merchandise and sheep; evidently

is

it

an important market-day.
"I wish I had a pair of those beautiful opankal^^ I cry
as we creep slowly through a wide street lined with booths
displaying the sandal in

all

stages of

its

development from

the plain leather strips cut from the hide to the elaborately
finished product.

*'Do you really want them?" questions the Leader.

''For we can stop as well as not."

'T

really do,"

and as soon as the car

by the Gentle Lady and by a mob

I

begin

narrow

my
street

stops,

accompanied

of interested onlookers,

down

shopping expedition.

In walking

we

stocks of merchandise,

inspect carefully

all

the

frequently being invited, nay begged, by eager venders to

The crowd

purchase.

of

country folk about our heels

increases, the ones at the rear trying to get nearer, pushing

upon us

those in front almost

in their desire to see;

but

they are never intentionally rude.

"This looks

a good place," I murmur;

like

and stop

before a booth whose owner has a dignity which pleases me.

"Quanta,''^ I hazard in Italian, pointing to a pair of

opanka
head.

Ah!

wrought with cord, but the man shakes

"Koliko? (How much?)" I venture.
richly

the strange lady speaks his tongue.

his

With a rapid

gesture of dismissal to the curious crowd, he motions us

to enter his tiny shop,

polishes

them

before us,

sweeps two stools from a dark corner,

swiftly

talking

all

and bows deeply

the time with so deferential an air,
with

cloth,

such expressive gestures that we almost understand what he

132

SPALATO TO METKOVIC
says.

Now

if

the worthy ladies will

shop and indicate their pleasure.

which I prefer, then to my feet.
knees and measuring,
as

no one

down

in his

humble

I point to the

opanka
on his

sit

Instantly he

such a pair of opanka

is

I shall

have

Vrgorac can supply; and with surprishe mounts to a shelf near the ceiling, returning

else in all

ing agility

with a pair of sandals which he displays with a sureness of

appreciation which brings

its

own

reward.

He

very truth most beautifully made.

them with

my modern

shoe and

They

are in

stoops to compare

agree with his disdain.

For picturesqueness, for charm of color,

there is no comparison!
Poised upon

for artistic design,

his delicate finger,

the opanka swing in tempting nearness.

The keen

eyes of the Slav never leave

enjoys hugely
willing to

my

delight,

He

pay?

but

finally

ten kronen (about $2.50).

makes up

face,

shocked at the

not
kronen,
down

price,

his

mind

This seems to

and with

tentatively,

the street the

my

me

to ask

is

be

me

reasonable
I

look

fingers indicate eight

but with decision,

Leader

and he

will the visitor

but remembering the Oriental custom,

enough;

see

what

my

as

can

growing uneasy at our

absence.

''Very well," he assents, pleased with his bargain, and

throwing the connecting string of the sandals over

we

sally forth followed

my arm

by the good wishes and pleasant

smiles of the shoe merchant.

The country
to their

good

the motor to

folk are

taste,

nod

immensely pleased at this tribute

and come running from all sides toward

their heads,
^Z2>

show

their

own opanka, and

MOTORING

IN

THE BALKANS

me upon my worthy purchase. I show it

each one who can reach me, and they pour forth

congratulate

proudly to

a chorus of farewells as

we move

slowly off toward Met-

kovic.

Below, as we mount, the valley

is

mostly under water; on

the other side rise the snow-capped mountains of the Herze-

Here we meet a

govina.

by

his looks,

a Bosnian

dignified old seignior,

on a short

and stubby pony, accompanied

by a lad on foot. At sight of us the boy turns the pony's

head quickly away and attempts to drag him out of the road
up the steep hillside. With all his might the stubby beast
resists,

to

planting firmly his short fore-legs.

interfere,

but

urgings, threats,

the lad desists,

simply

and even blows

when

his

keeps
avail

The
seat.

naught

the stubborn

rider scorns

Cluckings,

in exhaustion

pony turns and gives

us one good long look, then scrambles out of our

way without

a murmur!

We

now

on the

which here separates

Dalmatia and the Herzegovina, and the prospects on both
are

sides are

full

travelling

of interest.

branches to the

left,

ridge,

Where

the

we catch a glimpse

road to Ljubuski
of

Dusina on the

edge of one of the winter lakes.

At a place where the declivity is bare and sheer, we stop

carefully on the outside to permit a carriage to pass but all
caution is vain at the next encounter, which is with an
;

animal carrying a big load of fire-wood on his back. With

one gasp he breaks away from his master's grasp and scampers

down a winding

path, leaving his burden scattered

in fragments along the way.

Even
134

this

poor peasant does

SPALATO TO METKOVIC
not seem to blame us, but

rather the

foolishness of his

ignorant beast.

Another winter lake appears below, with walnut-trees

upon the edge. ''Otric-Struge," says the guide-post, then

two kilometers more to a comparatively level stretch. White
terns circle about us
"

and the meadow

we

Borovoci-Novasela," and

swiftly

down

to the edge of the

and go
where pond

leave the heights

Narenta

As we

are a pleasant surprise.

lilies

larks sing.

delta,

cross a dyke, a

man

guiding a native boat called a "trupina'^ makes a fine

sil-

houette between branches of poplars and fig-trees bordering

These peculiar boats, which the Narentines

paddling among the reeds and rushes, are so light that

the highway.

use in

they can be carried on the shoulder, yet so strong that they

and crops of
demand, as from

are used for the transportation of hay, rushes,

all

For shooting,

kinds.

January

March

to

the Narenta,

and goose

abundance.

in

they are in

also,

an abundance of game along

moor-hen, marsh wood-cock, the wild duck
there

is

Eagles, also, are found there, and

white-headed vultures, pelicans, wild swan, herons, and seagulls.

up

very Paradise

the

hunter!

Salmon

to twenty kilograms, are caught in this stream;

eels of the

well
is

for

fat

Narenta, taken from October to January, are

known, as are

also the crabs.

another favorite industry; but of

Only

trout,

and

The

catching of leeches

all this

we

see nothing.

the graceful sprays of pomegranates, red with their

new growth, dogwoods

shading the river road,

in glorious flower,
call for

and mulberries

our enthusiastic admiration.

Across the lake the houses of Metkovic melt into the

135

MOTORING
hillside.

we come
to the

It is

IN

THE BALKANS

a fascinating ride of

five

kilometers before

watch-tower of Norino, and, turning sharply

follow the new dyked road on the north bank of

to the

left,

the Narenta

passing the docks where steamers from Trieste

are unloading,

and the railroad

station,

we

cross the river

and draw up before the Hotel Austria, Metkovic.

136

CHAPTER

XII

METKOVIC TO RAGUSA

A LTHOUGH

Metkovic was formerly on the frontier

between Venetian Dalmatia and the Turkish Herzego-

vina, the city itself has absolutely nothing in the

way

of

antiquity, or even of picturesqueness, to offer to the tourist;

but what
dance.

she has she presents in good will and abun-

smoking

dained after

was

six

hot, palatable

hours of touring.

meal
In

is

not to be dis-

fact, this

small hotel

we could have procured

between Spalato and Ra-

the only possible spot where

such a thing the whole distance

gusa.

Imagine, therefore, the disapproval of the Leader

I

rushed

down

pursuit of a couple of country

women

dressed in lamb's-

when, delaying our luncheon,

the street in

wool trousers and long coats, sleeveless jackets of sheepskin,

the wool side in and the outside embroidered in bright
colors, and, of course, the universal white kerchief

bag

and

flat

stuffed with purchases.

passer-by in the raggedest outfit

ever saw looked

curiously at me, and then at them, wondering what I could

find

extraordinary in two such common-place creatures,

but when

paused

to

"take" a young befezzed and

Bosnian, stepping jauntily

always been taught to

call

down

the street, in

what we have

a Turkish costume

was understandable, and he looked a

man's gorgeous clothes and general air
137

bit

brilliant

yes, that

enviously at the

of prosperity.

MOTORING
Across the

way from

IN

THE BALKANS

the hotel

is

a small park, where two

On

magnificent trees guard the entrance.

flows the Narenta River.

Roman

In

one side of

it

times this stream,

an important part; for Narona,

of Dalmatia, was situated near its

called then the Naro, bore

one of the three capitals

mouth.

It

was the

barrier between the two republics of

Venice and Ragusa in the Middle Ages, and forms

now a

convenient highway for the transportation of goods in and

out of Bosnia.

For nearly

fifteen kilometers after leaving

rough road follows the contours of the

Metkovic, the

hillsides

above the

flooded delta of the Narenta, crossing narrow inlets on

Wherever the water ends, the

dykes.

fresh, green

growth

young walnut-trees are bursting into red-bronze

many vineyards are under water; and the highway

begins;
leaf;

from lack of use

is

covered with a weak, thin grass.

On

the stone walls, near the village of Vidouje, large round nets
are drying.

Here'we begin the ascent over the mountains into the

Herzegovina. No wonder the road was grass-grown below,
nor that we meet only pack animals and no vehicles of any
kind

for although

we make two long windings we reach

top of the pass in two kilometers, the

last

grade being

the

fifteen

Such a desolate conglomeration of water-worn

A billowy
rock such a tumbled gray sea, suddenly petrified
per cent!

field of

the

mountain peaks bounds the eastern horizon, and on

first

loop

downward we

get a superb view over the

Adriatic, starred with islands.

The road

continues steep and stony, with an

138

economy

METKOVIC TO RAGUSA
approved by the automobile.
As we descend, near the three hundred and fifteenth kilo-

of space at the turns not at all

meter post, we meet a

file

of Herzegovinians in well-worn,

picturesque costumes, toiling

up

the

mountain from the

"From Neum,
under the weight of many burlap bags
suppose," calls back the Leader. "Soon we go out of

sea,
I

For

the Herzegovina and enter Dalmatia again.

this is the

peninsula of Klek, with about two-thirds of a mile of coast

Neum, which Ragusa,

ceded to

and the

tiny port of

Turkey

so that the Venetian territory might not touch her

in 171 8,

borders."
Beautiful black and white terns
sional flock of sheep

shepherdesses,

rough, out-of-door

before us, an occa-

seen guarded by trousered young

is

after

ily

a sensible costume for their

all, it is

Below

life.

us, suddenly,

a blue estuary

appears in the landscape a mountain point a tiny town.

"What is it?" we ask in chorus of the map-holder.
;

"It

is

the Canale di Stagno piccolo."

Oh, the musical

Italian syllables!

"And

on the peninsula of SabThe fishermen's boats look like flies on the

the village

bioncello?"

is

Hodilje,

We

pass under a ruined watch-tower on the hilltop.

"Probably that marks the frontier, a relic of Turkish

water.

domination;

now we

are out of

the Herzegovina and in

Dalmatia again," remarks the Leader.

But the landscape does not change, nor the appearance of

Two women pass us, bent double under imthe people.

mense bundles

of

firewood;

them carry between

the two

them one
139

men accompanying

umbrella!

This

attitude,

MOTORING
of course,

is

a survival of the ancient barbaric customs, when

man was the warrior,

woman did the rest.

the

the

THE BALKANS

IN

respect of his kind

if

the hunter, the food provider;

said that the

It is

he condescends to

would be the

man

and

loses the

assist his wife

and

one to object, with horror,

at his taking a share in so-called woman's work.
that the wife

first

A beautiful, great bird, as big as a crow, bright blue, with

golden brown and black striped wings,

and

sails

But

this time

before us.

"Oh,

our Leader

do wish

fails us,

from the ground

knew what it was!"

rises
I

of ornithology he pre-

tends no knowledge.

We

pass a pine plantation, struggling for existence in

rocky waste, and stop to

this

tie

on more firmly our extra

cans of gasoline.

"This must be the very top!"

w^e cry, as

we look down

Canale di Stagno piccolo, with

an undulating range of mountains on islands beyond. The
road takes a deep fall down, another high incline, then a
a sheer thousand

loop,
in

and

slides

feet to the

down

We

into a land of plenty.

meet men

a new costume of short, blue baggy trousers, brown

jacket embroidered with red, a yellow sash,

table crimson cap of Dalmatia.

Another

and the

inevi-

cleft in the hill-

and another glimpse of a sea of islands.

At the three hundred and forty-second kilometer

side

Slano

is

fig-trees,

post,

plainly perceived below, amid flourishing vines,

and olives. We do not enter the village, but keep

on our southern course over

hillsides

covered with genista,

over banks pink with the campion, or purple with the

heather.

The

road, too,

is

better, in that the stones are

140

METKOVIC TO RAGUSA
smoother, and the views more varied and enchanting.

At a

sharp corner we meet a man riding on a horse, and, accompanying him, a handsome woman walking! However,

huge gold beads and a Maria Theresa, with four gold rings
on her large fingers, betoken the affection of her husband
as well as her lofty social position

We
the

climb another short incline to another

panorama

is

magnificent

well defined; the heights of

town

tiny

Our

of

Mezzo, nestling

hilltop,

olives

we reach a sunny

Giupana and Meleda; and

beneath a ruined

in a cove

fort.

with apples and

slope, planted

to stop us,

ing frantically points to the

shady

and a man

More

vale.

and

Has

a bridge broken?

Very

an accident?

cautiously

we crawl down

Is there

the

hill

and around the turns

finally to discover that this anxiety is not for

but for one poor

lad,

who

little

is

donkey driven by a

the innocent cause of

they think that

our way?

peasants,

also point eagerly to the lower road.

there been

dazed

gesticulat-

appear upon the

in the fetching yellow-sash costume,

roadside,

in

the

and hedges of rosemary, where from a terrace above

an excited voice attempts

Do

where

the open sea with estuaries

exclamations, as well as our adjectives, are exhausted

before

all

we

Evidently!

us after

patient,

all this

all,

somewhat

commotion.

are going to run over everything

an engine of destruction, with-

out heed or guidance, running about the country, seeking

whom

it

may

devour, like the lions of old.

The

frightened

lad dismounts, with trembling limbs, and tries to coax his

steed out of the narrow road but the donkey,
by this

time fully aroused to his opportunities,

141

the

moment he

MOTORING
is

from

free

and

roll;

to

his master's weight, decides to

have a good

he does, kicking up his heels in derision,

roll

we await

while

THE BALKANS

IN

Shocked by such discourtesy

his pleasure.

the

strangers,

villagers

look apologetically

first

at us,

Finally His Royal Highness deigns

then at the donkey.

shake the dust from his coat vigorously, and move

our only lanon out of our way. With mutual smiles,
to get up,

guage,

we

exchange congratulations with the crov/d and

continue our journey.

More

olive groves

and the

first

carob-trees;

a chapel

and a cemetery; a wayside cross, cut from the mountain

and suddenly two magnificent planes or sycastone
mores, monarchs of all the countryside! At this time we

do not know

that these trees,

forty

feet in circumference,

with a spread of one hundred and ninety-five feet in diameter,

are

one of the sights in the environs of Ragusa. We

experience all the joy of discoverers. Their fresh spring
is

foliage

exquisite

in

mottled bark and

branches

and

dwarfs

comparison!

all

"We
Leader

with the

their

enormous

dark
size

are only about fifteen miles from Ragusa," the

calls

over his shoulder,

nosa, or Tristeno, as the

way

color, contrasting

maps

"for that must be Can-

say."

From

here the high-

follows the convolutions of the coast, with wonderful

views over land and water like another Cornice, with which
it is

well worthy of comparison.

On through more
of

Gravosa

olive orchards

in the distance.

we speed with a glimpse

Beyond Orasac, on an inward

bend, we get an exquisite picture of the deep blue bay of

142

METKOVIC TO RAGUSA
down a

Malfi, then sliding

close to the water's

hideously steep curve

edge once more.

It

turn

away and

follow

its

side

gayly colored banks.

are

Ombla

the

is

with Gravosa before us on the other

River,

we

but we

Here we

palms and Japanese medlars, with quantities of

yellow genista and purple gilly flowers.
"Is there no bridge?" I ask, "or ferry?"
see the

first

"Yes, there
is

a ferry at Mirinovo close by;

is

only four miles to the source, and

we may

but

it

as well go

around."
Small villages succeed one another, or peep from the

wooded

and elder

own

Here

midsummer, indeed, with roses

blossom; artichokes in tiny gardens and our
perennials in abundance for this is the valley

hillside.

in

familiar

Ombla, a

of the

Ombla,

called

continuation

is

favorite

by

of

with nature lovers.

spot

the Greeks Arione,

the

Trebinjcica

The

is

supposed to be a

River

"which becomes

subterranean some two and a half hours' journey away in

the Herzegovina."

(F.

H. Jackson.)

"All these 'sources' are alike," announces Her Ladyship

"A mass of water boils out of a precipice." So
calmly.

we do not dismount
the outer
cliff

air.

We

to see the

Ombla's

exit or entrance into

only receive an impression of an immense

of stratified limestone, bare

valley; a big building

and bleak, above a smiling

which we afterward learn

is

the

pump-

aqueduct supplying Ragusa; and a tiny

then we turn again toward the sea, and soon

ing station for the

chapel

reach the harbor of Ragusa, called Gravosa.

Large steamers find a shelter

143

in this protected port,

and

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

here the railroad ends, a mile and a half from the gate of
the city.

The sun

sinking in the sea, birds are singing their

is

vesper hymns, the solemn sound of monastery bells comes

our ears, work

clearly to

tired town, as
fine

we climb

is

ending, rest beginning, in the

the last

"Bella Vista," in the

hill

and speed along the

soft twilight, to

our much-longed-

for hotel.

The Imperial
pines, magnolias

is

in

and bamboo.

multiflora roses, rich blue

An

charming garden
beauty of

its

our windows

an ancient

violet
,

splendid palms and

the midst of

iris

Masses of bridal wreath and

and forget-me-nots,

arbor of wistaria, in

blooms, stretches

its

all

fill

its

the delicate

long length beneath

the sea tosses restlessly in the distance below

fortress;

city itself, mysterious

and

close beside us rises the walled

and fascinating

144

in the early dusk.

CHAPTER

XIII

RAGUSA

O AGUSA

was the crowning point of our Dalmatian

Never did I appreciate the beauty of
experiences.

the open sea until I

proud and ancient

this

mediaeval times.

has

came

its

own

southward.

to this stronghold of the Adriatic,

city,

wonderful survival of

this

Ragusa, each

Zara, Sebenico, Spalato,

peculiar charm, the interest increasing as

Zara, complete in

itself,

we go

a tiny walled city on a

narrow peninsula shut in by islands Sebenico and Spalato

built on large bays with more extended outlooks; but of
;

them

Ragusa alone basks in the freedom of the open sea.

Great waves dash against her worn rock fortress, and no
all

islands shelter her

from the Adriatic's storms.

To

be sure,

there are the "Pettini," sharp, teeth-like rocks, projecting

just

enough

to

warn

the sailor where hidden danger lurks;

and Lacroma, a dome-like wooded islet, crowned by an old

fort, but on every side the sea stretches away to meet the sky
in limitless horizon.

One

sees the faint

steamers, or catches the gleam of

smoke

snowy

sails against

and longs to follow the white- winged

world and far away."

blue,

How

We

brilliantly the

wandered

of far-away

sun shone on that

the

gulls "over the

first

morning!

park close by. It is a charming

combination of rocky cliffs above a crystal sea,
grassgrown terraces planted with resinous pines and aloes,
to the

little

145

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

5^11ow gorse and endless small wild flowers just beginning

and vetches and pittosporum of sweetest fragrance.

Ivy clings to the old wall and barred gate
that shuts off a convent garden, where white-coiffed nuns
to blossom, lupines

walk

in the

formal paths.

The

wistaria flaunts

banners, spirea von Houttei sends forth

its

graceful

cascade-like

its

branches of bridal blossoms, and the pink sprays of the

tamarisk

The

make a huge bouquet

in the green tangle.

"plain people" appreciate well this flowering beauty;

they, too,

wander

own

in this, their

fair

garden

they stop to

admire the sweet -smelling shrubs and gay borders and

fold their tired hands contentedly, as they sit here in
the cool of evening, looking out at the glory of sea

and

sky.

Love

of nature

ship between

all

the driver of the

and the

city,

is

universal

nations.

little

and forms a bond

I feel

of fellow-

a glow of friendliness for

which plods between Gravosa

stand under the mulberries at the

diligence,

and has

its

Porta Pile; for on one of his

late

"runs" he brought a big

bundle of spirea and when the sun had

horses' bridles with the white branches.

decked his

set

These low, green

more than wagons, drawn by three bony horses,

and always filled with a gay crowd of soldiers and peasants,
are a feature which I hope will not soon be replaced by the
stages, little

ubiquitous tram.

The

driver, with

one leg thrown over his

knee, chats sociably with the nearest passengers.

I really

my window

need not go outside for amusement, for under

passes a constant procession from the fascinat-

ing old city gate to the surrounding country.

146

Occasionally

RAGUSA
one sees an open landau, with red-fezzed gentlemen gazing
about, as strangers are wont to do.

There
tier

is

great variety in the costumes

The

than those of the north.

The aprons

finely plaited.

vary,

skirts

and the

and they are pretare dark wool and

fluted

and fringed

white kerchiefs are worn either tied under the chin or looped

up on top

of the head.

Neither are the gold

filigree

beads

allowed to hide their elegance; but, strung on a plain cord,

which

is

supposed to

snugly in the folds of the fichu at

lie

the back, they begin just at the collarbone in front

and

fall

low on the bosom.

An

officer

in

the pale blue uniform of the Austrian

by on his well-groomed horse. A

young woman in a dark stuff gown, red and white checked
apron, green kerchief, and carrying one of the flat emcavalry goes

slowly

broidered bags of the country, accompanies a child of

perhaps

on the

to
hill.

school,

for

there

Dominican

is

friar,

a fine

new

six,

school-house

his white frock floating

about him; a flock of small school-children with an old

servant in their midst

man

bent double under a load of

firewood; three more officers gravely walking their horses

down

the long hiU;

a pretty kerchiefed Ragusan; an un-

mistakably English tourist in knickers, with his red guidebook; three women, each carrying a brilliant-hued bundle

on her head,

walking poppies; a squad of cavalry;

''There must be a parade somewhere! Do they celebrate the fete of St. Peter Martyr?" I ask wonderingly.

More

like

gayly dressed

women, one bearing a

large,

round

basket surmounted by a full-sized broom, deftly balanced

147

MOTORING
on her head

And

THE BALKANS

IN

so the kaleidoscopic

panorama goes on

ad libitum.
I

am

aroused from

absorption by the

my

''Suppose we

tones of the Leader, saying:

suggestive

an

get just

imoression of the old town to-day, and later examine

it

in

detail."
It is delightful to feel that

no steamer leaving

sight-seeing;

no

we have ample time

at

a fixed day and hour,

We may

train holding us to rigid schedule.

nothing at

all, if

stay in Ragusa,

we

and the motor

beneath the shelter of

There

no

for

wish;

its

own

for our

limit
is

has been

even do

set to

comfortably

our

installed

curtains beside the hotel door.

stands in perfect safety during our entire stay.

it

Through

and mulberry-shaded

the pretty hotel garden

square by the Post Office, we reach the bridge over the old

moat!

What

a charming picture between the poplar-trees

looking up at the city walls and towers against the barren

Mt. Sergio! Before us stands the Porta Pile,

evidently a mere gateway for the many citizens going in
a brilliant, sun-lit frame for
both directions; but for us,
slopes of

ever-changing scenes.
the inner gate,

Within,

and we are

at

sharp elbow leads to

once in the Stradone, the main

and only wide street in the city.

"This was at one time a marshy canal,"
Leader, "separating the original

city

canal was

filled

the whole,

much

city

from a rural

on the slopes of Mt. Sergio.

grew, the two factions came together, the
up, and a line of fortifications built about

colony of Bosnians

But as the

Roman

relates the

as

settled

we

see

it

to-day.

148

The patron

saint of

RAGUSA
the Slavic colony

was

and neither being

Sergius, of the Latin colony Bacchus,

willing to accept the guardian saint of

the other, they agreed to choose a

tune

moment a

head of

one.

At

this

oppor-

pilgrim arrived from Armenia, bearing the

or Biagio, an Asiatic bishop.

St. Blaise,

resting at

new

Ragusa

the saint appeared in a

the Ragusans of an impending attack

While

dream warning

by the Venetians.

In gratitude for this kindly interest, the

Ragusans adopted
Did n't you see
There is
statue over the gate as we came through?

the good bishop as their future protector.

his

another, very curious one, of silver in the church dedicated

to

him

and

speaks of a
I

am

to

in

the

of

Treasury

the

Duomo

wonderful reliquary containing

Jackson

his

skull."

only half listening, for the passers-by are so delightful

watch,

men and women

in

such a brave and bright

array.

"Did you

ever see such steep strips of streets!" exclaims

the Enthusiast, pausing

tween

tall

"And

before a long series of steps be-

buildings.

here

is

another!"

cries

Her Ladyship, from a

corner near by.

window

Clothes-lines stretch from

across to

window;

the owners on the opposite balconies could touch hands, I

believe;
fortress

while

atmosphere the frowning

on the mountain-top seems to rise straight up from

the last house.

in

this

crystal

The shops

are filled with silver ornaments

and embroideries, such as the natives

on very slowly, enjoying the

love,

and we saunter

fresh, first impression of this

quaint old town.

149

MOTORING
"Did you

notice that big Oriental-looking fountain just

gate?" the Leader asks.

inside the

the sun

"No,

THE BALKANS

IN

was so hot

was hunting

for a

shady

spot."

"There should be a

new

following the

reads

lead,

near here," he answers,

cloister

and

we turn

aside where a sign

''Ljecarnica, Farmacia, Apotheke,"

with an index

hand.

ciscans, with
its

spot, indeed,

charming
its

this old cloister of the

is

double columns supporting narrow arches,

fifteenth century fountain

between long stone benches,

and the roses! only the orange-tree

vies with

them

cast black

"I

am

Fran-

in the corner opposite

for fragrance, while the palms'

shadows on the
sure you have

friars'

sharp fingers

walk.

shown us

the most enchanting spot

Ragusa"; but the Leader only smiles mysteriously and

bids us wait and see.
in

On

one side of the

cloister is the

Farmacia, where the shelves are

and vases, an

still filled

with rare blue jars

inheritance from the Middle Ages, for this

apothecary shop, founded in 1307,

in

famous Franciscan

is

one of the three oldest

Europe.

At the farther end of the Stradone

clock tower; and beside

it

stands

is

the fifteenth century

La Sponza,

the ancient

mint and custom house, a wonderfully charming building,

a Venetian fagade with a Renaissance loggia, and a double
cloister

about

its

small

cortile,

where

still

gather to dispute over the weights and taxes.

the

This constant

presence of the gayly dressed country folk adds so

ISO

contadini

much

to

RAGUSA
the

charm

of

Ragusa, that sometimes architectural details

are overlooked.

But

for the loveliness of the Rector's Palace, a short dis-

tance beyond the

Custom House, no

The massive columns,

adjectives are adequate.

the richly carved capitals, supporting

graceful arches, are but an introduction to the splendid

entrance,

the Porta della Carita, flanked by long, arcaded

benches of marble; and the dignified double

its

is

comparatively modern stairway;

and the

cloister,

details,

with

it

not enough to revel in the sensuous beauty of the whole,

the lights

and

the perfect proportions, the

creamy

shadows

Surely those curious pictured

scenes
leaves

in its

deep

reveals.

color,

upon Onofrio's capitals, the exquisite finish of those

and flowers, veritable gems of Gothic sculpture,

must not be overlooked.

"It was built toward the end of the fifteenth century,"
"
broke in the voice of the Leader, by the Neapolitan Onofrio

de

La Cava,

assisted

by Michelozzo and Georgio Orsini, who

did the cathedral at Sebenico.

You remember Michelozzo

designed the Palazzo Riccardi in Florence and the Library

of

San Georgio Maggiore in Venice."

No wonder it is so peculiarly satisfying with that com-

bination of architects for

Every day during

our stay in Ragusa we linger a while before it, and every
day at some new viewpoint discover more of its lasting
its

sponsors.

beauty.

The Duomo,
ly

built

during this same period, was complete-

destroyed by the earthquake of 1667, so that this

new

cathedral contains nothing to compare in interest with

151

(?)
its

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

famous Treasury. On Wednesday mornings at eleven it is

shown, and shortly before that hour groups of tourists, with

some few

residents, begin to assemble.

door has been unlocked with

down, the

priest

and

his

its

two

After the massive

three keys

and the bars

let

assistants take their places

within and set before the astonished gaze of the people

gathered at the railing, silver and gold work with inlays of

precious stones and rare enamels, until they are dazzled with
the quantity

and variety

Most

of design.

of the objects

appear to be of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries,

although possibly made at a later date. There are several
monstrances, two elaborate processional crosses, and
curious thorax-reliquaries, besides one
of St. Stephen of

Hungarian

many

supporting the

jaw

Hungary, interesting as an example of early

With business-like despatch,

silversmiths' work.

other reliquaries of wrought silver representing in natural

size

arms and other portions

of the

human body

are sub-

mitted to our necessarily casual inspection and then not a

tenth part have
effect,

left their

cases

when

the priest for crowning

produces the reliquary containing the skull of

Biagio, the patron saint of the city, the

lection.

This

is

gem

a truly marvellous work of

twenty- four medallions of saints,

Byzantine

St.

of the col-

art,

with

in style,

its

and

probably of the twelfth century; these are surrounded by

the most exquisite scrolls

and flowers and leaves

astonishing delicacy and richness.

During

in

enamel of

his close exami-

nation Mr. Jackson discovered that the date of this latter

work was

1694.

Truly many hours could be profitably spent upon

152

this

RAGUSA
precious relic alone, but the most curious piece of silversmiths' art
its

case I

to

remain

is

wonder why
in

When

yet to come.

it,

that

bunch

the ewer

is

taken from

of dried grass

allowed

is

but learn only by actually touching

that

it

it

This ewer and basin were, they told us,

intended as a present from the Ragusans to the Hungarian

is

silver imitation.

king, Mathias Corvinus;

sadors reached him,

it

but he dying before the ambas-

was brought back

to their

own

city

Mr. Jackson disputes this date, and believes that

again.
it
belongs to the end of the sixteenth century; but, in any
case, it bears upon its surface an extraordinarily realistic
representation of eels
stained

and

lizards, ferns, flowers,

and modelled with a

fidelity to

and

reeds,

nature nothing short

of marvellous.

"Suppose we have a brisk walk

Her Ladyship, one

cool, clear day;

this

morning," suggested

and

instantly the

Leader

rose to the occasion.

"Why
all

not to San
"

Giacomo?

It

ought to be attractive

the way.

So we

renewed

Roman

set out.

delight,

Through

the Porta Pile,

always with

along the Corso, by the Dogana and the

stairs leading to the

the triple archway

church of San Domenico, under

we

follow the ancient

to walk

briskly, but hotter

of the Porta Ploce,

route above the sea.

We

do

try

and hotter grows the sun, and more and more dusty the
road.
Between high walls, as in Italian suburbs, it leads
us until

we reach

scattered villas,

their lovely gardens.

degli Olivi,

we

When we

find only

and can look down

arrive

at

into

San Giacomo

an abandoned and bolted building;

153

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

but the views of Ragusa between the cypress trees, beyond

the aloe blossoms, against the sparkling sea,

croma as a pendant jewel, well repay

A group of

Ragusan misses

us.

its

attendant sycamores

against the blue green of the mountain-side.

suits, shirt waists,

well-bred English girls;

and

young

In their short

sailor hats, they

seem

like

indeed, their low voices, gentle

manners, their interest in their work,

criticisms of their

La-

are sketching the picturesque

belfry of the old monastery, with

walking

with

teacher, set

and attention

to the

an example

for the

school-girl of

any country.
Returning from San Giacomo, we stop

monastery to

rest

a bit within

its

at the

Dominican

lovely cloister.

tiny

against the wall, has the utmost fascination

up
Does the Father Superior look from it over the
blue sea and refresh his soul with glimpses of a heaven on

balcony, high
for

me.

earth,

or

is

great tidings.

and

it

merely a gallery from which to announce

Beneath the willow

trees are pots of

mar-

low evergreens and oranges in bloom;

an open flagged space enclosing a stately well; and all
around, the Gothic arches with their strange interlaced
guerites

lilies;

circles casting cool

shadows upon the quiet walk.

154

CHAPTER XIV
RAGUSA LACROMA LAP AD

L-JAVING

been told that Tuesday

Ragusa,
square where

I start out early in the

There

Good

and vegetables are offered for sale.

no such picturesque crowd as at Zara on

is

fruits

Friday, but here

narrow

belts,

if

there

and dangling

the Herzegovinians.
to ask her

and

about

roaming

the

country women, brave in rich costumes,

streets are

jewelled

market-day at
morning toward the
is

she

is

These

head-dresses.

One, so well dressed that

willing

to

be

are

I hesitate

photographed, tosses

her head and moves her fingers, unmistakably

demanding

money.

"One

kronen."

"Oh, no!"
"Well, sixty heller." By this time another splendidly
from the ground for all I
attired specimen has appeared

can

see.

"One kronen

for the two," I bargain

from sheer force

of habit.

"No, sixty for me and sixty for her first!" What a sad
comment on her experiences with another race
When I have given the promised sums they stand like
!

statues

and

will so stand

by the hour

trace of animation leaves their faces.

155

if

desired.

Every

In vain I say ''Parlal

MOTORING IN THE BALKANS

GuardaP^ they
not be diverted from
grim
will

They

purpose.

their

are having their pictures taken,

nerve and muscle betokens

The white
filigree

and

lace veils

it

and every

which the women wear fastened with

pins and tassels to their tiny caps, or beaded

floating over their shoulders, are very effective.

sympathize with an English

who
women to

tourist,

attempting to persuade one of the

fillets,

I quite

is

apparently

sell

him some-

She looks puzzled and shakes her head, but later

on from a tiny shop comes loud and clear in the up-and-

thing.

down

intonations of the Cockney;

"No,

want a female

costume."

The harbor
place to linger.

of Ragusa, Porto Casson,

Here are

to

is

a delightful

be seen the large fishing-boats,

with their curious night lanterns

for attracting sardines,

quaint barks from neighboring lands, ships from distant

and occasionally a steamer or two.

Often a new
costume may reward one, although the familiar attire is
ports,

varied enough always to delight the eye.

''Do look,"

cries the Enthusiast,

"on the deck of that

steamer by the dock," and she struggles to refrain from

pointing out a pretty woman, dressed in full Turkish trousers,

long maroon velvet coat, trimmed with silver braid,

and a white kerchief on her head.

legged on

Instead of sittmg cross-

the floor she is evidently very comfortable

upon the
and
of
from
behind
a
veil
instead
she is
bench,
peering
a
and
with
two
men
in a
cigarette
chatting
openly smoking
truly sociable

manner.

'Ts this the new

woman

of
156

Turkey?"

ask Her Lady-

HliRZEGOVIMAX

WoMKX

.SuoPPIXG iX R.UJU.SA

^M

*<.^ ^'~;^

J9.
X.

\i^

y.

RAGUSA LACROMA-LAPAD
we

ship, but

discover later that even the Christians wear

those abominably ugly full trousers in the Herzegovina.

From

same harbor goes

this

Lacroma a small

forth to

naphtha launch none too clean or comfortable. Before we

quite realize what we have attempted, one silvery still day

we embark on

it

Her Ladyship makes

for the lovely islet.

no boast of seaworthiness, and the Enthusiast becomes limp

at the first deep swell, but the Leader encourages us by
pointing out the short distance and endeavors to distract \K

by

tales of the isle itself.

about twenty minutes,

We

finally,

approach

it is

close

only in reality

to

the

wooded

rocks, but see no sign of port, only a white cross, which

marks the shipwreck

we

Slowly
the sea

is

sail

on.

of

an Austrian man-of-war

The

soft

south breeze blows gently,

transparent, reflecting the mossy

wind-tossed forests.

in 1859.

cliffs

Above us looms an ancient

and the
fort,

and

against a tangle of green wildness shines a square campanile.

This was
before

one time the home of Crown Prince Rudolf, and

at

him

of Maximilian of Mexico,

who made from

the

San Marco a royal chdteau surrounded by

splendid gardens. Now it is back in the service of the

old monastery of

church once more, being occupied by the Dominicans.

Behind us lies Ragusa, her round towers by the water,
her walls and ancient fortifications on the mountain-side,

and the grassy banks on Sergius' very top denoting the

modern

fort.

Lacroma

itself is

a delight.

We

climb by shady paths

strewn with rosemary and gorse to the monastery court.

Then from

the orange garden

and tangle

IS7

of roses,

from the

MOTORING
palms and

aloes,

THE BALKANS

IN

by successive

terraces

we descend

to

charming viewpoint overlooking the distant city and the sea.

But the great joy of Lacroma is her wealth of wild

Under

flowers.

the ilex forest, yellow

ivory, they star the

and purple, blue and

One

dusky ground.

exquisite blossom

(Cistus Mmispeliensis) growing in great profusion resembles

a Cherokee rose.

would-be

It

is

enough

to

make

intelligent Enthusiast cry out with despair, for all

of this flora belongs to another botany than hers,

denied even a bowing acquaintance with these

of the forest

is

a real

The

trial.

air is

wind has

risen,"

to

be

denizens

sweet with pine and

and orange blossom. We sit in the cool

the twisted trees and watch the glistening sea.
believe the

and

fair

locust

"I

and

the studious

shelter of

remarks Her Ladyship,

scanning the leaping wavelets anxiously.

*'

You must

not exert your imagination so much," mock-

ingly replies her companion.

the launch,"

But

and

''Let

me know when you

does not have to be announced

it

before

it

see

so saying, he saunters of! toward the beach.

;

we hear

it

from afar

turns the corner of the rocky bluff, and hurry to

the tiny pier.

Silently

we take our

seats with one or

two

other passengers and begin our voyage homewards. The

wind has risen, nothing to disturb a larger craft, but the
short,

choppy sea

tosses our small launch in horrid,

jumping

motions.

'Tt

is

not

offers licorice

far,

you know," the Enthusiast comforts, and

her

favorite

panacea

to her pale

com-

patriot.

smell of naphtha pervades the

158

warm air.

There

is

no

RAGUSA LACROMA LAPAD

escaping from

Ragusa loom

its

sickening fumes, and

afar.

we made any headway at all,"

''How much longer are we going to be, do you

"It does not seem as

I

cry at

last.

suppose

Isn't

the towers of

still

it

if

getting worse

' '

''We are passing the most exposed part now," counsels

the Leader.
"Look, the sea is quite smooth over there."

And
our

soon we enter the region of calm and thankfully

feet

once more on terra firma.

"I think
evening

set

must be a hoodoo,"

when,

somewhat

cries

Her Ladyship

strengthened

by an

that

excellent

dinner, she has recovered her usual good spirits, "but I

don't

mean

"We
is

any more islands."

take the islands some other time

to go to

will

in a big boat,"

her lord's reply.

How
aspect!

completely has Ragusa preserved her mediaeval

"From whatever

side

you regard her, she appears

surrounded by a chain of frowning towers and girt by mighty

walls, over which little more than the towers of the church

can be seen, while toward the sea she presents nothing but
a line of walls and towers, crowning the verge of an inaccessible precipice."

One may walk around

walls, thus getting

an excellent idea of the sixteenth century

system of defence, besides

of the present time.

It is

many

the city on these

glimpses into the daily hfe

not a fatiguing promenade, al-

though there are many short flights of steps, as within these

walls Ragusa measures only about 450 yards square.
Each town in Dalmatia seems to have led its own individual

life,

with nothing but hostiHty for

159

its

neighbor.

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

Indeed, "Dalmatia, though nominally a kingdom, has never

had any independent national

so

much a

existence.

distinct country as a

Even

expression."

as Dalmatians, but

It is

inhabitants are not usually

its

by the part

not

convenient geographical

of the country

As an Austrian Province,

they come.

it

from

known
v^^hich

has representation

in the parliament of Vienna.

This fascinating region deserves

to be better

known and

highways more frequently traversed. I say

''excellent" from an American rather than from a French

its

excellent

standpoint.

They

are certainly superior to the Spanish

and

are fully equal to the average Italian roads.

No

one can admire the sea more than

color, its

ever-changing aspects

when contemplating
fickle surface,

my

I,

its

majesty,

its

my enthusiasm is boundless

from dry land but when on its

mind, indeed, my whole being, is so fully
it

preoccupied that

any appreciation is impossible. Viewing

a country from the sea only, one may get marvellous coloreffects and charming pictures, but often a false impression.

For instance, one author wrote that the

must be

like the desert of Sahara.

further from the truth.

boulder-covered plains,

interior of

Dalmatia

Now, nothing could be

These ashen, limestone peaks or

alternating with green plateaus and

valleys, are in striking contrast with the

tains or the apricot-colored sand

brown-stone moun-

on the

rolling surface of

the great Sahara Desert.

In no way
try

so

Plains

is

forcibly

and

the geographical conformation of a coun-

impressed upon one as in automobiling.

valleys, gorges, hills

i6o

and mountain ranges,

river

RAGUSA
and

courses, lakes

LACROMA- LAPAD

waterfalls, with their characterii5tic5

manner not soon

relations to one another, are learned in a

And by no

forgotten.

other

and

means can one come

in

such

busy about their

direct contact v/ith the j/;op]e of a country

daily tasks.

Toward

Lapad, a wcxxJed promontory jutting into the sea westward from Gravosa. Leavsunset

is

the time to

visit

ing the carriage at the gate of the Villa Bravacic,

we begin

climbing the rough, steep paths marje by flocks of sheep,

learJing U> the

herdess greets us pleasantly, as

us as to the

sures

summit of Mt. Petka.

we

reas-

her barking dog.

intentions of

g'-xxi

shy young shep-

upward, and

toil

"Gobj, Gobj," she calls, in successive intonations of command and ajmmendation. She is busy with some embroidery, instearJ of the usual knitting, but hardly glances at

she talks.

Of

course

Slavic speech, but her

we do

not

know one word

meaning some way

it

as

of her

fjenetrates fully

to our understanding.

After this

we meet no

one, no habitation

is

to be seen,

nothing but shrubby growth of junipers and tangled sprays

of greenbrier

and the sharp,

stiff leaf

smilax under the twisted pines.

far

be

half an

it

from

me

to divulge

One

of our

which one

bushy

number

weakens

after

hour of scrambling over loose pebbles, up steps

formed of the knotted roots of ancient

forests, jxteking in vain at

least

of a kind of

trees,

through shut-in

each cork-scTew turn to get

at

a glimpse of the promised view, only to find that the

wild growth guards

its

secret well.

penetrates these dark preserves.

j6i

No

hint of sea or shore

MOTORING
"I go no farther,"

THE BALKANS

IN

breathlessly, but with determination,

Renegade; "You go on, and I will wait for you

here," and she throws herself upon the fragrant pine needles,
her head upon a hospitable stone, and at once the trees whiscries the

per together and begin to

"You
comes

"Why,

my ear, and

do believe you

"Asleep?"

My

know what you

don't

faintly to
I

move

as I

in solemn, slow procession.

've

missed," a familiar voice

jump up hastily it

continues,

been asleep!"
scorn the word! I have been transported.
've

soul has gone a-sailing in far-off mystic spheres.

"Was

it

fine?" I pohtely question; but I must confess

that as I listen to the glowing account of the places seen

from that wooded height, my ghostly procession of warriors

and clansmen seems much more real than they.
In the early morning a colony of sparrows chatter

among

the pines of the hotel garden, a flock of whirling swallows

swings about the castle

flashes across the

to be alive!

cliff,

a sheen of white-winged gulls

deep blue dancing water.

How

good it is
In the summer warmth much of our nervous

energy has departed, and

seems quite enough to linger

on the flower-bedecked rocks, or idly watch the passers-by.

"Have you

it

seen that curious

little

between the stones over the door of San Guiseppe?"

the Leader at luncheon.
"Yes, at

least I noticed

from

tree springing

something queer up there."

"I wish we could go that way the next time we go

the city.
I want to see if I can get a picture of it."
"I know you
street

is

ask

into

can't," he answers discouragingly, "for the

only about ten feet wide and

162

the

top of the

RAGUSA LACROMA LAPAD

door must be

at

least

or twenty

fifteen

from the

feet

ground."

But we go over and examine the curiosity, for curious it

About fifteen feet high and apparently flourishing, the

is.

tree is held close to the fagade

by an

iron band,

and on an

and 1896.
Whence it receives its nourishment, no one can tell. By no
method can the kodak be turned enough to get a good
encircling piece of pottery are the dates 1806

of

picture

high wall.
inside,

is

Opposite, however,

it.

an iron gate

peer within, and quietly pushing

whence a

the

tree

woman

flight to

stands clearly outlined.

open go

keep on

my

joy,

kindly faced young

appears from within, with two children clinging to

motion to the

tree

and

^^hello^^

"Are

me

the shelter of her home.

she, well pleased at

pours forth a flood of patois, of

and

and

a small porch from where, to

her skirts and hospitably offers

I

flight of steps leads to a terrace, but even

there the wall conceals the coveted object,

up another

it

in

and ^'quarenV

which

my

discovery,

only catch "miracolo'^

anni.^'

you coming?" sounds clearly from below.

"Yes, yes," I murmur, and hasten to rejoin my comn't

panions.

163

CHAPTER XV
RAGUSA
"

VI7HERE

start out

"To

we going

are

first,

to-day?"

I ask,

as

we

one glorious April morning.

buy some chocolate," gayly answers

And so to the market we go. While the

the market to

Her Ladyship.

sweets are being purchased I wander to the other side of

square and

the

stop before

the

booth of a vender of

vegetables.

"Will you be kind enough to tell me the name of that

bird?" I inquire. For amidst the fluttering pigeons a tall
gray-winged creature, with spotless head and breast, stalks,
very

much

"It

is

at

home.

a sea-gull," answers the market-man.

"But he has no

fear,

not even of the dogs," I remark in

For two or three come bounding along at that

moment, barking vigorously and scattering the pigeons at

surprise.

their feast.

"No, he

he
taught,

is

tame.

is

most

He was
intelligent

caught very young

and

and knows whether the

dogs are muzzled or not. He knows many things and for a

barometer he is better than any glass. Three or four days
beforehand you can tell by his cries when the weather is
going to change."
"
In that case perhaps you will inform

for the skies are overcast.

to-day,"
164

me

if it

will rain

RAGUSA
E h! Maybe

II

a sprinkle or two, but not much."

"And to-morrow?"
motor

I venture, for

we have planned a

ride.

"No, nothing
seeing

to

speak of," he assures me,

perhaps

ardent desire for sunshine.

my

"What

his

is

name?

mean, what do you

call

him?"

I ask,

"Piero.

And

Here,"

raising

his

Piero!"

"Piero,

voice,

some

the bird, at the other side of the square, picking at

refuse, instantly

"How

dear he

eat?"

"Not

comes

here,

is!

at the

well-known

Can't

call.

buy something

he eats cornmeal or bread

for

him

or fish";

to

and

a friendly customer, standing by, opens her parcel and gives

me some

pieces of small fish,

rather indifferently to taste.

ested in

my

band

which Signor Piero deigns

The venders

much

are

photographing him as he stands at

my

inter-

feet.

moving rapidly up the street, and I ask the

shopkeeper what is going on. "A funeral," he replies;
is

"outside the Porta Pile."

"To San

Michele, perhaps?" I ask, to ascertain whether

the procession will pass through the town.

Lapad," he replies.
"It must be an elaborate ceremonial,"

"No,

to

I venture, for I

had seen men carrying wreaths, going up the

hill all

the

morning.
"

Oh, no!

No one

but a signora," he dubiously responds,

with the true Oriental attitude toward the

The costume

of a slim young Ragusan

165

fair sex.
is

very attractive

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

trimmed with red bands, short to

show white stockings and red shoes; a spotless apron and a
the dark stuff

gown

is

white coif over a coquettish red cap complete the charming

Not only are

men vie with them

the

picture.

the

Here

attire.

is

man

and red

in a

as butterflies, but

and splendor of their

Oriental costume smoking a

in the variety

Turk

in full

on

cigarette as he rides along

is

women gay

his

ambling donkey

new costume, a white lamb's-wool

and here

fez,

black

and a

striped silk coat with tight-fitting sleeves

short black sleeveless jacket heavily embroidered in red;

a broad Persian sash

twisted about the waist

is

tight white lamb's-wool trousers are

and the

trimmed with a curious

black applique and fastened close at the ankle with silver

whole heart to beg him to stand still

for one small moment, but he looks so fierce, he takes him-

hooks.

long with

my

no,

self so seriously,

I really

am

And

afraid I dare not.

he passes swiftly out of sight.

'T think he is from Albania," remarks the Leader.

may

see

more

group

of

of

them

in

"

We

Montenegro."

women go

chattering by, their huge round

baskets deftly balanced, as usual, on their heads.

These

baskets contain anything, evidently, from clothes to market-

by an umbrella or broom.

ing and are often topped

method, the hands are

this

weaker
It is

left free to

swing or to

By

assist

sister.

a law-abiding country,

saw but four policemen

in all,

ready always to
necessary,
intricacies of dialect.

off here at the

Where

assist the

in

i66

edge of Europe.

ornamental
our

rather than

foreigner \vith the

own country would

it

riF.RO

THE GULL

(ragusa)

4iw

y.

'VpBp

-^^'sf^

Jfc

RAGUSA
be safe to leave a motor car at the front door, day and
night, the extra tires only strapped

on and nothing locked?

In the thirteenth century the only stone buildings

in

Ragusa were the castle and the churches, all others being
Monte Sergio was then covered with forest;
of wood.

name

indeed, the Slavic

of Ragusa, Dubrovnik,

means "the

woody." Many of the now barren mountains in the interior

of Dalmatia were once green with vast tracts of the maritime pine; but the Venetians found this
their

for

Without

so

ships

they

rock.

rains, leaving

In certain regions the

pine and beech trees, hoping

more these waste places.

From what

invaluable

ruthlessly stripped the country.

the protection of trees, the soil

from the slopes by the

wood

was washed down

nothing but the

government
in time to

is

planting young

make

fertile

calamities has this charming city of

risen triumphant!

Burned

to the

ground

sterile

once

Ragusa

in 1292, swept

by

the plague in 1348, continually fighting for her real inde-

pendence, in 1358 she passed from Venetian protection to

But aside from tribute to be
that of Louis of Hungary.
paid, a certain

number

of galleys to be furnished, the ob-

servation of royal feasts, and the use of the royal banner,

she was

left

to govern herself

under her own laws, while

Hungary kept her enemies away.

During the next century

she developed an extensive commerce, not only with the

Venetians and the Hungarians, but also with the Turks,

then just beginning to
In 1420,
tian,

when

all

make themselves

felt in

the rest of the country

Europe.

became Vene-

Ragusa attained her highest supremacy, extending her

167

MOTORING

by purchase or royal grant from Stagno on the

Punta d'Ostro at the mouth of the Bocche di Cat-

territory

north to

on the south, about loo

taro

THE BALKANS

IN

Then

miles.

she was in truth

an independent Republic, although in time of need she felt

that she could rely on Hungary, and afterward upon Austria,
for

aid.

little

very progressive

Republic she proved,

for besides enriching her city with splendid buildings, in

141 7 she prohibited slave-deaHng,

in

1432

established a

Foundlings' Hospital, and in 1435 opened the

first

public

She brought water from Gionchetto, eight miles

away, and erected elaborate fountains at both her gates.
schools.

About 1450, many wealthy Slavic

the Turks, came to settle in Ragusa.

refugees, fleeing

They seem

to

from
have

taken kindly to Italian civilization and to have become

In 1460 Ragusa

patriotic citizens.

Mohammed

the Turks, under

II.,

itself

was besieged by

but was successful in buy-

ing off the enemy.

second

occurred in

and a

fire

1462;

terrible

visitation

of the plague

but the undaunted Ragusans rebuilt

their Rector's Palace and

increased their

many other public

commerce by new treaties, and

exceedingly.

At

inhabitants.

Its

this time

Ragusa

silks.

said to have

prospered

had 40,000

productions were shoes and glass, coral

wares and wax, and after 1539

and

is

buildings,

Think

it

manufactured woollen

stufifs

of this tiny Republic sending her pro-

ducts not only to Italy, but to France and Spain, to Egypt

and even
is

to the Indies!

"The word

'argosy,' or 'ragosy,'

said to have meant, originally, 'a ship of Ragusa.'"

But

in

1520 a new terror came to this stanch

168

little

RAGUSA
Republic,

terrible

earthquake, lasting at intervals for

twenty months and doing hideous damage. This was followed by so dreadful a plague that 20,000 persons are said
to have lost their lives.

With

the sacrifice of tribute, vessels,

to assist Charles V. against the Turks;

tions of the Uscocs,

and the shocks

and many

soldiers

with the depreda-

of further earthquakes

and more pestilence, Ragusa began her decline; and when

finally she had leisure to rebuild her ships, in 1640, she
found two new

rivals

on the

sea,

England and Holland.

But the most complete calamity that befell her was the earthquake of 1667, which demohshed the cathedral, unroofed
all

the churches

and a multitude

thousand persons. The

prey of hordes of marauders.
five

another

established,

on which

site

of private houses,

city

took

fire

and

killed

and became the

After order was in a measure

was proposed

to

the

Ragusans

to rebuild their city, but they preferred to

remain

dangerous mountain-side, where earthquakes still

''In
occur, certainly on an average of once in twenty years.

on

this

1805 the

first

capital sentence for twenty-five years

The

was pro-

went into mourning and an executioner

had to be brought for the purpose from Turkey." (F. H.
Jackson.) In 1806 the French occupied the city, and on
nounced.

January
public of

31,

city

1808,

Napoleon decreed that

Ragusa should cease to

been joined

to the other cities of

exist.

this sturdy

Since 18 14

it

Rehas

Dalmatia under Austrian

rule.

With what wisdom

this State that

it

its

rulers

must have administered

could survive through

i6g

all

these centuries,

MOTORING
for its position

IN

"exposed

it

THE BALKANS

to constant alarms, surrounded

was by troublesome neighbors, and subject alternately

the intrigues and ambitions of Venice, the unsettled and

as

it

to

discordant projects of the Slavonian princes, the unstable

friendship of the Hungarians, the selfish views of the Span-

and the capricious insolence of the Turks, to the

ignominy of whose protection the hostility of Venice obliged
it to submit
and the whole career of the Ragusan Republic
iards,

was a

struggle for self-preservation,

and the maintenance of

independence in the midst of constant danger."

its

(Sir

Gardner Wilkinson.)

The

very best time to be in Ragusa

May,

is

in full swing.

me

The day

before

we

to the market-square, once

fied sea-gull.

his

the

first

for then the roses are at their loveliest

in

I hie

is

and Summer

leave this

more

two weeks

happy

city

to see the digni-

I accost the busy market-man at

"Good-morning,"
booth, "where is Piero to-day?" for I had searched both

squares.

His eyes wander over the pavement, then lift to the

"He must have gone to the fish market," he anclouds.
swers quietly;

"Does he

"Why,

"He
fly

will

soon be back."

there?"

I ask.

certainly," he replies,

as

if

to say,

''How

else

should he go?"

"But

wings are not clipped, then?"

"No, indeed," he somewhat indignantly responds.

will

his

be back here soon."

"He

is

a marvel, your Piero,

170

think."

"He

RAGUSA
"He

is

a most intelligent bird," responds the market-

man.
I wait before the Rector's Palace, feasting
its

lovely lines,

my eyes upon
and picturesque passersthe sweet, soft southern air, and it is

gazing at the casual

by, and drinking in

not very long before

from

his

my

friend, the market-gardener, cries

busy booth: "Look!" pointing to the sky.

With

a graceful sweep, the sunlight turning his snowy breast to

silver,

down

Piero, the intelligent, alighting within a

flies

stone's

throw of

on one

side, as

my

much

Why

fectly easy.

How saucily

hand.

has to say, "It

is

he cocks his head

It is per-

nothing.

don't you try it?"

When we

were resting after dinner that evening the

Leader broached the subject of motoring all the way to

Cetinje

feat not usually

attempted by

"Do you suppose we can do it?"

tourists.

cried the Enthusiast.

"Easily enough," replied the Leader of the Expedition;

"if

we can only get across the Bocche."

"You know General Winchester had

ferry,"

reminded

Madame

"As

at the

a good-sized row-boat.

but motors have been over."

large as

"Oh,

back

Content, with her usual caution,

for "the ferry" consisted of

"Yes,

to turn

ours?"

well, of that I

am

not sure.

If

only the road were

completed!"

For there

is

to be a wonderfully interesting drive close

to the shore, leading

from

village to village entirely

the five bays constituting the so-called "Bocche."

towering mountains,

it

around
Beneath

continues from Castelnuovo through

171

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

Kamenari, Morinje, Risano, Perasto,

and
Orahovac
Dobrota, to Cattaro, where the cHmb into
Zelenika,

Meljinc,

Montenegro begins. Already it is finished as far as Kamenari and is passable, although somewhat narrow, for a few
miles further on.
trated into

its

one intrepid motorist penehad to run backward a

I believe

depths so far that he

mile before finding a suitable place in which to turn around

Probably this is the old Roman road which came

down from Aquileia through Epidaurus (Zara Vecchia)
turning at Castelnuovo to connect these colonies of the
again.

Bocche with Durazzo on the

coast, just

beyond the mouth

of the Drin.

*'Let us go

down

to Zelenika,

facilities for crossing," advised the

inadequate we can

"You

anyway, and look

Leader;

"if

we

at the

find

them

easily turn back."

won't take any risks with our precious car, will

you?" begged Madame Content; and being

date was decided upon.

reassured, the

This was Tuesday.

On Wednesday a charming Engcalled with a letter of introduction from
lish couple
a mutual

friend,

and naturally the

talk

fell

upon our

plans.

"No,

'm

afraid

ful drive in the

we won't be

motor," answered

able to take that wonder-

Madame

Content; "and

the seven hours' climb in one of those uncomfortable

carriages rather appals

"Oh, I'm

little

me."

sure you can get your automobile

across

someway," encouraged these new acquaintances. "Why,

the Prince has one at least, and a year ago we met two on
172

RAGUSA
the

way

Do

you suppose they

steamer from here to Cattaro?"

And

up.

shipped

them by

with this hint the Leader began making inquiries

but the banker and the gasohne dealer both agreed that
the steamship

company, not being accustomed

to

handhng

such bulky, heavy, yet delicate, objects, the landing arrangements at Cattaro would probably be found unsafe. In
fact there

would be too much

risk of disabling the car

and

so closing abruptly our pleasant journeyings.

"Why

not get a government barge?" suggested this

resourceful English authoress.

"Of
ties,

course, a government barge

would

solve our difficul-

and be the very thing; but we understand that naturally

the Austrian

is

navy

not loaning

its

vessels to stranded

motorists without orders from headquarters;

and a permit

from Vienna might take weeks to reach us."

"Perhaps we could do something," interposed the helpful lady; "the commandant at Castelnuovo was very kind
to us last year,
to assist you.

make

he could, would be glad, I am sure,

Certainly it would be no trouble for us to

and

if

inquiries, as

we

are going to Cattaro to-morrow.

think you will find

all

the Austrian officials

and anxious to do everything

strangers.

What day

in their

most courteous

power

for visiting

did you say you wished to cross?"

"Why, Friday or Saturday would

"Well, one of us

will get off at

be equally convenient."

Castelnuovo and see what

can be done."
I

am

afraid

we were

we thanked them

skeptical of their success, although

heartily for their endeavors.

173

We knew

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

had been taken across by lashing two small

boats together
at least, so we were told.
How they man-

that motors

aged to get them

down from

the dock

some

six feet

above

same boats was not explained.

have taken over big cars
some

that

weighed ten tons," boasted one too ambitious native.

As

the water into those

We

''Oh, yes!

our car only tipped the scales at the modest weight of one

and one-half

tons,

we regarded with some

suspicion any

further statement this well-meaning Dalmatian might make.

Great, therefore, was our surprise and joy

received

from our

that they

had been able

influential

friends

the

when we

welcome news

to arrange everything for us;

and

by applying to the commandant at Castelnuovo the

barge would be sent to Kamenari to carry our motor across
that

that
It

narrow but important

was decided

that

we

strait in the

Bocche

start early the next day.

174

di Cattaro.

CHAPTER XVT
RAGUSA TO ZELENIKA

piERO

was

right

shining gloriously

it

when

awakened

of martial music in the

the sound

and the

did not rain,

that

street.

sun was

morning

to

Opening the

band marching gayly by, followed

infantry, and the usual adoring crowd of

shutters, I spied a military

by a company of
small boys. It seems

band,

for scarcely

to

have plenty to do,

a day passes that we do not hear

some quarter of the city. It plays well,

repertoire, from Chopin's Funeral March

Widow

is

this ?

to

The music has turned

halts at the entrance

in

under our windows

delicate bit of attention at parting, I

haps, seven-thirty in the morning

asm on

too,

it

in

quite

the

Merry

Waltz.

But what
and

this military

is

by the hotel

rather

muse, although, per-

a bit early for enthusi-

But they do not linger,

they are evidently a much-in-demand band. After one
tune, down the hill they go, still playing, and the echoes of
the part of the recipient!

the music

come

faint

and more

faint

as

they disappear

through the Porta Pile and back to their quarters again.

Another band is heard in the distance, another band

marches up the hill, another band turns in and stops under

our windows. Really, this attention is growing overpowering!

They

play two tunes in our bewildered ears while

the curtains of the automobile are taken off

175

and the top put

MOTORING
down, ready

for

some

of

The

travelling.

through the small court.

sion,

THE BALKANS

IN

have joined the proces-

Little girls

them leading by

trudge alone.

dust whirls in clouds

victoria

hand brothers too

the

below has

tiny to

lilacs at the horses' ears

and adorning the lanterns. Is he a nature-loving coachman; or is some one important leaving by the boat this
morning; or
Behold,

is

this

May Day

celebration?

a third band makes

still

no idea that there were so many

numbers, perhaps,
assistance of the

this

its

in

appearance!

had

Smaller in

Ragusa.

one plays with vim and without the

drum

major.

not enter the hotel and the stay

The

charge does

officer in

brief; the big bass

drum,

conveniently rolling on two small wheels, disappears

down

the

followed by the flower-decked carriage.

hill,

The

school children twirl a rose or carry a bundle of

flowers, the peasant tucks a

brown

soft

ear.

Evidently

passes.
lively

Another
it

It is

jesta.

negro.

first

scarlet

bedecked with green,

And
of

one behind her

this

is

the

way

the

May.

indeed a perfect morning, warm, with a southern

and

light white clouds drifting over the sky,

the heat of the sun as

side

is

deep

vehicle,

Ragusans celebrate the

breeze,

is

we

leave Ragusa,

tempering

bound for Monte-

A broad new road has been blasted from the mountain

around the walls of Ragusa, thus relieving the Stradone.

"What

splendid harness!" cries the Enthusiast, as the

sun's rays reflect dazzlingly from big brass plaques and

rings holding bright tassels; for

we

are

on the highway

to

Trebinje and the peasants from the Herzegovina are coming

to market.
176

rilK

MOAI'

cow KRIKI)

IN'

To A i'ARK, RACUJSA

RAGUSA TO ZELENIKA
"

Why do

men wear a

the

lamb's-wool coat,

Madame
for

it

it

so hot?" inquires

is

the custom, I suppose, for one reason,

is

another

how

noticed

wonder, when

Content.

"Because

and

thick vest over that long white

is

it

Have

so very becoming.

beautifully they are embroidered

n't

you
and the hang-

ing buttons of filigree silver?"

"Yes, but that does not make them cool," she

"Well, they are prepared for

when

the sun sets

their return
all

all sorts

persists,

of weather,

you see;
and they are climbing the mountains on

homeward, doubtless they

will

be very glad of

that clothing."

The

first

red poppies are starring the stony

stemmed dandelions

in

clusters

strange

under bare rocks, and the

fields,

long-

nod gayly from

heavy with the perfume of

Near the monastery of San Giacomo we look back
gorse.
at the exquisite view of Ragusa, and the green-wooded
air is

peak of Mt. Petka rising behind the castellated Minceta

Tower. A bend in the road, and three carriages filled to
overflowing with
spirits,

men and women

in the gayest of clothes

confront our delighted eyes.

The horses,

have not the courage to rebel at sight of

and we pass them

party," I exclaim;

all

too swiftly.

"Did you

this

and

sorry beasts,

new monster

"It must be a wedding

see all the silver coins

and

buttons and braids?"

"And the gold -embroidered

Madame Content.

jackets

and beads?" add

"Perhaps they are from the Valle di Breno which we

soon enter," remarks the Leader. "You remember, the
177

MOTORING

IN

THE BALKANS

people there are noted for their good looks and becoming

costumes."

The

excellent road against the side of the

the silvery sea;

cliff

and as we make the innumerable

overhangs
turns,

new

and varied combinations of mountains and deep-cut bays

are disclosed.
Here in the Val d'Orsola the rocks support
a slender growth of evergreen, just enough to emphasize,
by its rich shade, the opalescent tints of the bare crags. At
their feet the

water forms a foaming

after point juts forth into the sea,

tells

and point
the Punta d 'Ostro

line of white,

until

where the Bocche begins.

The

mulberries are in

full leaf in

sheltered corners, as

we ascend through pine woods to

Trebinje route branches north. Our way

leaving the water gradually

the top where the

before us in the luxuriant valley of the Breno, green

lies

with
yards

its figs

men

and

olives,

oaks and cypresses; in the vine-

are working, raising small hillocks around each

precious vine.

"Look!

that man wears

his sash outside his long white

and he has a turban instead of a cap," exclaims the

Enthusiast, as a donkey with his rider trots calmly by; "I

coat

wish I knew from what part of the country he comes."

"It would take a life-time to learn

tumes,"

Madame

to enjoy

them and not bother."

Out from

Content

Breno

Near

way ascends more gradually above

178

it

is

lies,

nice just

passing

we

climb again

Plat the

smooth high-

her famous mill and white cascades,

cliffs.

these varied cos-

"I think

replies.

the sheltered cove where

beneath great towering

all

the crystal water, the air

RAGUSA TO ZELENIKA
is soft

with the perfume of gorse, and on the crags grows

my Lacroma

Hke a Cherokee

flower,

we

''Oh, can't

longer.

rose.

stop and get a

can

resist

no

bunch of flowers?"

I cry.

"Why

not?"

replies the

Leader.

And

with a sharp

and protecting gloves, a branch of yellow gorse is

plucked and tucked into the hood's supports on either side,
knife

men in a field below gaze in wide-eyed wonder.

At Obed a rough road leads down to Ragusa Vecchia,
on a point jutting into the bay. The Dalmatians have a
while

curious custom of calling a bay or gulf a valle, which

fusing to unaccustomed ears;
lies at

picturesquely placed,
Its

con-

thus this ancient town, so

the edge of the Valle di Breno.

white bell-towers reflect the morning sun, while the green

water forms foam-flecked

rocks of

Mrkan and

circles

Supetar.

around the dank, projecting

These ''Pettini" of Ragusa

Vecchia serve as a wind-break to protect the

well

named

antiquity.
its

is

city.

It is

old, as its foundations are lost in the mists of

Since 639,

when

the Avars ravaged

it

and drove

inhabitants to a safer harbor at the present Ragusa,

has survived only as a straggling

We

leave the water

now and

it

village.
rise

through a low sciubby

growth, meeting more gayly dressed pedestrians and coming

suddenly upon a groupe of maidens driving loaded mules.

With a common impulse, naturally every one of the dumb

animals turns and tries to run, but the young girls are fully
With concerted impulse each one
her own particular charge and the brilliant colors

competent for their

attends to

task.

dance over the gray hillock as we stop to

179

let

them

pass,

MOTORING
One

THE BALKANS

IN

makes a charming picture

her escaping beast and drags him

particularly pretty creature

as she fleetly runs after

How

to safety amidst the yellow gorse.

triumphantly she
one
her
her
hand
on
cheeks
stands,
hip,
rivalling the bright
red of her cap under the demure white coif as she beckons
gayly for us to go on

A
sterile

wider valley opens before us now, beneath high,

mountains, where a long white line winding downward

marks

the

of

route

the

new

reaches the level of the road and

into

the

flooded

green

is

already

we

another

plain,

At

railroad.

cross

winter

Cilipi

it

to descend

it

lake,

where

beginning to show as the

water

recedes.

Skirting

Gruda, a valley of

by high
usual

vines,

hills.

in

sight

we reach

western side for a few kilometers

its

broad and protected on both sides

small rivulet appears beside us, an un-

Dalmatia;

blue

swallows

circle

over

it

and the big blue-and- fawn-colored bird that I saw on the

pass obligingly perches on top of a low tree, so that I get an
excellent view of him.

source,

we climb by

Following the tiny rivulet to

steep grades to the top of a ridge where,

beyond a gendarmerie,
the Bocche di Cattaro.
just

Very beautiful they

foot of the

the Leader

its

we

get our

first

are, those land-encircled

view of

bays

at the

Montenegrin mountains, white with snow; but

is

only giving one-half of his attention to the

view, as the narrow loops

and the turns

short.

downward

are dangerously steep

Another brook has taken us

in charge,

a tiny stream in a broad gravelly bed, over which goldi8o

RAGUSA TO ZELENIKA
finches

fly,

seeming to

reflect the

buttercups that gild the

low-lying meadows.

Crossing the river and valley of Sutorina,

Herzegovinian

territory,

and passing the dear

tery of Igalo, purple with growing

iris,

ceme-

little

we come

The

waters of the Bocche near Castelnuovo.

strip of the

to the

hills bristle

with forts; a sentinel looks at us curiously; hedges of pink

tamarisk bend over the water,

its

tasselled flowers in exquisite

In the distance, to

contrast with the sapphire of the sea!

the south,

we

to the Bocche.

discern the narrow, well-guarded

The

signs over the shops

entrance

and inns are now

in Slavic characters.

As we near Castelnuovo

the

little

garden terraces over-

flow with roses; great bushes, heavy with pink bloom, hang

we on

the

Sheltered

by

over the high walls; and at each fresh discovery

back

seat cannot restrain our enthusiasm.

high mountains from the north wind, basking in the splendors of a southern sun, with the waters of an inland sea at
its feet,

Castelnuovo surely possesses

all

the conditions con-

ducive to luxuriant vegetation.

In Slavic Erzegnovi,
niak King Tvarko
the capital of the

Stjepan Sandal j.
to

I.,

"it

was founded

Kotromanovic."

dukedom

by the BosLater it became

in 1373

of the Herzegovina under

Indeed, the

have been derived from

name Herzegovina

this town.

At

Duke

is

said

his death the

Turks captured Castelnuovo, but in 1538 they were driven

out by the Spaniards. This "was the only part of Dalmatia
ever held by the Spaniards."
built the picturesque castle

According to tradition, they

on the hill with its four towers,
181

MOTORING
still

IN

THE BALKANS

called Fort Spagnuolo, but only succeeded in keeping

the place a few

months, when

the

Turks overwhelmed

In 1687 the Venetians, assisted by the Knights of

them.

Malta, added Castelnuovo to their possessions.

We
tions,

The

choose the lower road, passing the ancient

now

tiled

fortifica-

and heavily draped with ivy.

roofs of the houses peep from the wooded hillside
in picturesque ruins

and many ships and barges are anchored

to the sea

we

in the port.

Close

speed, beneath date palms and cypresses,

through the military encampment of Meljine, under the

monastery gardens of Savina, to the present end of the rail-

way, Zelenika.
Why Zelenika?
traveller, clean,

and the cuisine

Because there a ''Pension" awaits the

although furnished with Spartan simplicity,

of the

Hungarian Major is far-famed through-

out the countryside.

182

CHAPTER

XVII

ZFXENIKA
'""

^HERE

about Zelenika; just the name

print at the

Baedeker

isn't a single solitary thing in the

end of the

all

line," gleefully

by

itself in

comments Madame

after a
up from her guide-book as,
luncheon, served on a sunny balcony overhanging

Content, looking
delicious

the water,

we

fumed

and the

air

to see,

the fine

sit

on the beach enjoying the sweet per-

sails drifting by.

no church, no \dew, no

lazy this afternoon," and there

"There

is

village, even.
is

n't

a thing

We

can be

a distinct note of exulta-

tion in her voice.

How

beautiful

by the buzzing

of

it

is,

with a restful stillness broken only

an occasional bee hovering over the flowery

meadows, dipping into the genista blossoms, or stealing

sweetness from the wild thyme at our feet. The apple-trees
are in bloom and the larches in newest, softest green against
the pines

up

the hillside great magnolias flourish

where rose vines clamber

in profusion.

with gorse and wild finocchi

The

and every-

air is sweet

forget-me-nots and buttercups,

and yellow mustard, star the ground; and

steamer chairs we idly watch the sea.

daisies

man-of-war rides

at

anchor just outside the

a black launch floating a pennant half as big as

puffing by from Castelnuovo.

"Do

in

our

inlet

and

itself

goes

you suppose a train comes out every day, or only

183

MOTORING
once a week?" asks

know,
don't

as

I feel

this

if

THE BALKANS

IN

my

"Do

companion, dubiously.

you
were pretty near the jumping-off place,

you?"

Possibly the absence of her liege lord has affected the

Gentle Lady's attitude; for he has gone to Castelnuovo to

pay

his respects to the officials

who have

so kindly offered

to facilitate our crossing the Bocche.

But, divertingly, I point out the big steamers passing to

and

fro,

and the

sailing ships tacking

the narrow neck of the Canale di

The

di Topla.

back and forth from

Kumbor toward

here lack the Venetian coloring and

sails

the broad hulls are crowded with people.

"observing their
is

blowing

off

along, one of

first

the Baja

of

May

Are they,

as a holiday" ?

fine

too,

breeze

shore and the barge-like crafts speed merrily

them

so near that

we can hear

the voices of the

merry-makers.

"Are they coming in?" asks

a row-boat puts
sailor attaches

ing a horse.

it

for

the snore with a rope

to the rocks as simply as

Soon the sloop

on the water, her

is

off

the Gentle Lady.

sails

if

floats, silent

Yes,

and the

he were tether-

as a dreamship

lowered, her jolly cargo landed.

"Oh, do come here," cries Madame Content, "what

Here is anthat brown thing floating on the water?

other,

and that one has

Would

n't

it

feelers ten inches long, at

be fun to catch one and see

it

closer?"

"If one only had a stick or a pail," and

edly towards the hotel.

"What
"I

am

are you going to

do?"

going to get one."

184

least.

go determin-

'^-'i.-^-r-c-'.ri.'^-

^-^^

TILIED ROCK SIRATA AT ZELE.MKA

ZELENIKA
"You are?" and Her

Ladyship's mocking laugh follows

me.
**

is

Oh, Signore,"

such a queer

ask of the immaculate Boniface, "There

fish

out here;

it

opens and shuts a

colored sort of fringed parachute.

might

do so want

claret-

to see

have a pail or a net or something?"

"It must be a medusa," he remarks in response to

near,

feeble

"There

are

many

and he points

to

my

about here and

to be ten inches across, but these are

Is that it?"

tom

explanations.

they grow

it

young

yet.

a spot on the rocks at the bot-

of the clear water.

A boat is untied, an
"Yes, yes," I exclaim, eagerly
old tin bucket procured, and we fish up Madamoiselle
Medusa. In glee I carry her to Madame Content with the
and we study her strange openings
and shuttings, her marks and fringe of softest feathery
brown. She turns politely at our invitation, and submits

aid of the smiling porter,

to the

kodak without a murmur but the confinement

;

plainly palls

pail

upon her and

after a

few minutes we

return her to her

own

new

over and over in the lapping water.

zest

and

When

the Leader

alert step
is

rolls

briny element.

She breathes with

comes back from Castelnuovo,

and beaming eye denote a new

project.

we both exclaim, but he only replies,

"How would you like to take a walk?"

it?"

"We

would love

of the

it,

but where?"

his

"What

There seems

to be

nothing but the dusty highroad.

saw a path through the woods just beyond

The woods! We two exchange glances in de-

"I thought
Meljine."

185

^TORINO IN THE BALKANS

the

Thus tempted, we

mere word.

leave our snug

under the rocks and seek the promised path.

''This is the first day we have been comfortable
.1*

out of doors in the shade without a wrap," remarks

Content; "of course,

sitting

Madame

we have been coming south

the

all

time, too."

"But
siast;

isn't

it

an ideal

May Day?"

"such as we read about

in the

puts in the Enthu-

olden times

when

chil-

dren gathered wild flowers for their wreaths and danced

about a ribboned May-pole."

"Do look at those steps! What beautiful moss!" inter"Where do they lead, I wonder?"
rupts Madame Content.
and she follows

their aspiring outline with her eyes.

that a church or something

The Leader

it

does look

like

is

n't

there, near that tall cypress ?'*

stares fixedly at the white campanile,

eyes dance, but his voice

"Why,

up

"Is

and

his

perfectly grave as he replies:

We

a church.

might go up and

see."

We

up,

up and ever up, we climb the ancient

and gaining the
stony steps half overgrown with thyme,
high terrace, sink upon its low wall to look with wonder and
do;

delight over the green hillside,

down

to the beautiful sea.

Close beside us are a few old grave-stones inscribed with

Slavic characters near a

domed church; a

tall

white belfry;

a chapel wih a bunch of huge keys hanging hospitably from

the door-knob; a long, low monastery with every window

thrown wide open;

"What
the

is

it?"

Leader had

in

but not a

friar or

ask; for this I

priest.

know

is

the spot which

view when he suggested our

i86

stroll.

ZELENIKA
"It

the monastery of Santa Savina, not very

is

was founded

""ollows

Grec
by
Orthodox monks driven from Trebinje by the Moslems,

it

in the sixteenth century

now it belongs to
a summer residence";
but

the

who

the Bishop of Cattaro,

the

Leader

is

uses

well launched

it

as

upon

"It celebrates the Assumption with great pomp,

his topic.

and the gathering of the peasants

worth seeing."

"Oh, when

is

must be well

at that time

it?" I cry.

*'The twenty-seventh of August."

"
Oh, dear! Nearly all the pilgrimages have their special
jeste in the

dour "

Summertime!

Don't you remember Rocama-

"Is that a chapel up there in the trees?" interrupts the

Leader, "or a look-out? The view must be wonderful

from there."

We
lofty

rise

and follow him up the goat path

What

terrace.

a panorama

lies

to another

before us!

Santa

Savina guarded by her solitary pine and towering cypress,

below the winding waters of the Bocche di Cattaro

merging into the open sea, and on the eastern horizon
far

mountains

the

of

Montenegro

in

rising

opalescent

splendor.

As we
exhales

where the honeysuckle

spicy fragrance, a hidden bird, after a few prelim-

rest

its

on the ivy-covered

wall,

inary whistles, begins his evening song,

low, with soft, reassuring murmurs,
else, bursts into

and

pseans of joy, and

rollicking numbers.

begms

then

trills

it

rather

forgetting all

his ecstasy in

gay
Other birds hear him, farther
187

MOTORING

IN

THE BALKANS

away, and attempt mimicry, but he triumphantly silences

all until the forest rings with his melodies.
In the early twilight we leave the sacred height of Santa

Savina and silently descend on the other side by steep,

winding paths through its low growth of live-oaks, bay,

and laurel,
paths sometimes indicated by half-obliterated
signs on mossy stone posts, but alas! the words are Slavic

and the

letters

pect that

we have

Greek!

erates into steps

lost

There are moments when

our way,

in places the

roughly hewn from

sus-

walk degen-

the rock, but farther

on becoming smooth and sandy under the whispering pines,

^^
where the woods have been
it leads us to a ^'rond point,
cut away, enabling one to get a

new

picture

the

gleam-

ing bare crags of the gray Dalmatian mountains behind

all

greenness of the shore, and in the foreground, the white

this

tents of the Austrian

"Let me

see,"

little

at Meljine.

muses the Leader

"we have only about

encampment

late that

same evening,

sixty-eight kilometers to go to-morrow,

over eleven from here to the ferry at Kamenari,

than about twelve to Cattaro, and from there

think

it

is

forty-four kilometers to Cetinje."

"I do hope we

'11

have a day

Enthusiast.

z88

like to-day,"

exclaims the

CHAPTER XVIII
ENTERING MONTENEGRO

TT

was with a

Zelenika

distinct thrill

sunht

that

Montenegro by

that

indeed,

if

should reach Cetinje for luncheon.

was

started

away from

morning, for we were

nightfall,

the Rucani River

we

rich in figs

and

to

be in

the plans went well

The

we

sheltered valley of

cherries, olive orchards

extended on the slopes above, and splendid poplars and pines

cast grateful shade

the level road close to the water's edge

gave us a constant succession of changing scenes. Off

Kumbor lay some torpedo boats and a detachment of marines passed

by us marching.

The Bay

of

Teodo opened

before us, disclosing a chain of blue mountains with a snow-

capped peak in the centre.

''Do you see that highest mountain?" asked the Leader,
turning around in his seat.
in

behind

it

to

Cetinje."

''That
It

is

Lovcen, and we go

seemed incredible that we

could so quickly reach the lower shoulders and climb the

mighty mass outlined against the sky.

"I never saw so many soldiers," remarked Madame Con-

far heights of this

tent,

"and

them

see

sailors, too.

I don't believe

you had better

let

your camera."
So the innocent black box was sent into limbo and

the incidents of this short ride were recorded only on our

memories.

The clumsy

sardine boats, with their huge fishing lan189

MOTORING
terns,

THE BALKANS

IN

were anchored close to the quays, where brown nets

Cherry and

were spread out to dry.

fig trees

small plats of gravelly beach, divided

under their shade lay tiny boats.

combination of sea and land life.

flourished in

by stone

made a

It

walls,

and

delightful

But scarcely had we been on our way twenty minutes

when around a sharp bend appeared the stage from Risano.

The

horses, frightened as

much by

the antics of the terri-

by our approach, reared and backed and the

poor man shouted and pulled on one rein, not knowing what
he was doing. The road was extremely narrow, a ditch on
fied driver as

one
off

quay on the
the power some fifty
side, the

We had stopped and turned

other.

away, but nothing could reasAnd nothing could calm his terror,

feet

sure the frantic peasant.

endeavor to turn around, the top-heavy vehicle

until, in his

tipped over and the pole snapped.

''sickening

thud" meant.

chauffeur ran

down

knew then what a

Instantly our Leader and the

to rescue the occupants of the diligence.

''Don't you dare use your kodak,"

usually

Gentle Lady, as

neath the robes.

don't feel at
I

all

I instinctively

"We may

all

commanded
reached down

be arrested any way.

the

beI

secure."

have always regretted that

I failed to get

a picture of

and the group of dishevelled people who,

disentangling themselves from loose straps and bundles,
The horses
crept unhurt from beneath the black hood.
that foolish driver

did not try to run and under the chauffeur's calm guidance

were safely led by our

and rope procured

silent car.

The

to temporarily
190

vehicle

mend

was righted

the dilapidated

ENTERING MONTENEGRO
To

our surprise one of the occupants of the

stage spoke English fluently, and assured us that no one
had been injured by the accident.
harness.

"We

shall never get to the ferry at this rate,"

the Enthusiast as,

two minutes

after

we

left

exciting episode, another horse began to

exclaimed

the scene of this

jump about and

dance queer figures on the narrow road.

The

stone walls above the water were draped fantasti-

cally with hides

and sheepskins hung

One

the peasants carried!

to dry.

Such loads as

passed us with four demijohns

strapped across his broad shoulders.

Here the Bay of Teodo contracts, becoming so narrow

that when Louis of Hungary was defending Cattaro against
the Venetians, in 1380, a chain

was stretched from shore

This

shore to prevent ships going further.

Le Catene, and

called

strait

is

still

Kamenari we

was only about half a mile across.

ferry.
exasperating it would be to any one desirous of pene-

were to find the

How

here at the village of

to

It

beyond those snowy mountains to know that on the

further shore extended a beautiful smooth road but to have

trating

no means

of reaching

an exquisite blue

it

The water was

perfectly

calm and

an orange sail appeared

against the gray crags above Perasto; a whitewashed, greendomed church clung to the verdant hillside; but most
of

beautiful

of all

government barge

to
!

in the distance

our expectant eyes, the barge, the

completely manned and with attend-

ant tug, awaited us beside the quay!

was so courteous and pleasant

The

officer in

charge

that I determined to risk

request.
191

my

MOTORING
"Would
the car

there be

THE BALKANS

IN

my

to

any objection

photographing

on board?"

"Not

of our crossing

The

and the account

the least," he kindly responded,

was soon

registered

on the

little

black spool.

actual sailing across that bit of water took us only

eight minutes, but there

was some

difficulty in getting the

heavy car aboard, as the gang-way was hardly wide enough.

The prepared platform

across the barge

that the front v/heels slipped off

up

the slight incline under

its

when

was

so short, too,

the big

own power,

motor came

banging, and,

we

the fly-wheel.

pan beneath and perhaps damaging

However, upon examination, it was found

that no serious

harm had been

feared, bending, the

at

the

When

done.

disembarking

Lepetane, on the farther shore, no power was applied;

sailors

rolled

it

gently off the barge, the chauffeur

keeping the wheel straight from his seat in the car.

exulted in our successful voyage, bade

captain and his crew, and having

for

a future

meeting, sped

au

We

revoir to the

made an appointment

away on the

road for

fine

Cattaro.

Two

swam

bay before us, one with

white walls about a blue-domed church and rounded campanile.

fairy islands

"It

is

in the

the pilgrimage church of the

Madonna

dello

back the Leader, "and every bit of earth

was brought there by the faithful, from the mainland. Year
after year it grew, until this island was formed on a single
Scalpello," called

projecting rock.
for

The custom

is still

on the twenty-second of July

with stone puts

off

with

of

continued,

I believe,

each year a boat laden

much ceremony from

192

Perasto

n
JO
O
VI
v>

A
y.

y.

y,

y.

05

ENTERING MONTENEGRO
bound

for this shrine.

The

other island

Benedictine abbey of San Giorgio."

on the water, guarded by the

at the base of huge, bare

tiny

Cattaro opened before us.

May

They

town

the

abandoned

lay like jewels

of Perasto, nestling

Monte Cassone.

Then we turned a sharp

brilliant

is

and the

corner

Splendid

Gulf of

appeared in the

it

sunshine, shadowed by the sharply outlined

Montenegrin mountains, fringed by the white houses of

many

villages!

An

blue

Soldiers

lent

popped from

orange

sail

animation

moved

across the

the

to

scene.

glassy

Sentinels

boxes at the noise of our approach.

their

Every high point held a fortress, and ranges for firearm

seen upon the slopes. Nothing
practice were plainly to be
could be lovelier than this roadway which skirted the em-

bankment beneath terraced

and grapes and other

hillsides,

fruits.

overflowing with olives

The Judas

trees

dropped

their

flower-laden branches like pink garlands over the gray walls,

and on a jutting rock above the tender green of Springtime

rose a square white campanile.

"That must be

gornji, or upper, Stolivo, I think," said

the Leader, pointing to the graceful tower.

On

the far side of the bay bare peaks rose sheer from

the shore,
see

making wide shadows on

the water.

"Do

you

up on the mountain's
Lovcen?" eagerly asked the

that sharp white zig-zag high

shoulder, beneath the

snow

of

Leader.

"What?

That queer

sort of gigantic

on the wall?"
"Yes,

yes, there

above Cattaro."
193

angular writing

MOTORING
"What
"It

is

THE BALKANS

IN

it?" I asked,

still

mystified.

our route," he answered, laconically, "into Monte-

is

negro."
I

pose

shivered a
it 's

little

and the Gentle Lady whispered,

"

I sup-

safe."

"Oh, people do it every day," I reassured

"But not with a motor," she protested.
"Oh, well, it won't seem so steep when we

her, boldly!

get there

it

never does, you know."

we speed

Silently

where more

on, past Stolivo donji, or lower Stolivo,

soldiers are

marching and

drilling in the

narrow

past the long-drawn-out village of Perzagno, where

road;

an unfinished domed church and Venetian jagades tell of

former riches. Around another bend we course and the
bay narrows, the green dome of Cattaro's Greek church

coming into view, with the ancient castle picturesquely

placed on an isolated peak above the apparently level tovm.

The

line

of fortifications connecting the castle

runs up the

cliff

in

an amazing manner and blends with the

mountain rocks so perfectly that only

claims

and town

its

zig-zag course pro-

its artificiality.

Here the houses are almost continuous along the wayside,

each vdth a tiny harbor and a garden gay with snap-dragons

and calendula,

They say

gilly flowers

and

iris,

snowballs and

that retired sailors live along here,

spot in which to spend one's old age.

bedecked with ribbons,

they remnants of the

rags,

May Day

heavy with sweet flowers, grow

194

Many

an

lilacs.

ideal

bushes are

and colored papers.

celebration ?

among

Are

Locust-trees,

the vines

on the

ter-

50

W
O

O
JO
c/;

H
K
W
W
c

o
n
II
w

u
H
Oi

h
05

<
H
<

o
o

ENTERING MONTENEGRO
raced slopes, myrtle and asphodel spring

Our

ners.

Bon

favorite

Silene rose

is

in neglected cor-

up

also cherished here,

and toward the water the forget-me-nots make a carpet

of

blue.

The road
But the car stops
facing a new dilemma.
leads between two houses which stand so close together that
a donkey tethered beside one, in turning to look at us, completely blocks the way.
is

much amused and

Madame,

leaning from her window,

calls the boy,

who

runs

Half of the

search of the mule's master.

the

up

little

hill in

hamlet has

gathered before he appears, breathless, enjoying the absurdity of the situation as

highway!" he
that

meaning

unties the

jeers,
if

his

kerosene tins

upon

the gray

words are

great

in a Slavic tongue.

And

he

filled

cliff

as

come

we

This time they are carrying

soldiers.

with water for the morning mess.

cross a

into the

is

flaunting

river,

and

its

just

The

gay colors against

outside the town

highway leading

to

Montenegro.

have been told that every morning,

at

about eleven,

a caravan, with supplies of

up

at least his intonations indicate

the castle's tower

of Cattaro

We

"Che!

as any one.

donkey and holds him out of harm's way while we

go spinning by.
We meet more

flag

much

or

the mountain

and that

all
it

kinds for Montenegro, starts

would be wise

to get

ahead of

before coming to the sharp turns and steep grades.

times think that

it is

just as nerve-wearing

some-

an experience

the occupants of the automobile as for those in the

for

wagons
we
take
and
it,
always
every known
avoid danger. As we turn sharply to the

or carriages meeting

precaution to

it

195

MOTORING
right to ascend the pass,

IN
it is,

THE BALKANS
therefore, a satisfaction to see

before us, nearly ready for the ascent, a procession of fourteen large

wagons, heavily loaded, standing waiting for

Behind them come
the drivers to make their last adieux.

numerous donkeys, with

It is really

with
five

all

well-filled saddle-bags.

a feat to pass them without an accident, and

the waits

and caution

minutes, so that

face a clear road

possible,

we breathe a

it

takes us fully

sigh of relief

and the mountain

wall.

when we

Meadows, pink

and blue and yellow, extend across the fertile valley,

where oak-trees flourish in the midst of a vegetation truly
Mediterranean.

By

four short loops

we reach

Fort Trinita, which,

it

seemed but a moment ago, faced us from the clouds. Here

one road leads to Badua, a Dalmatian seaport on the Adriatic,
one to Fort Vrmac, a thousand
other

we

take, leaving

feet

above

us,

and the

the Gulf of Cattaro, where a toy

steamer has just come into dock, and getting wonderful

views of snowy Lovcen, and the
tile

fields of

Bay

of

Teodo, and the

fer-

Zupa, now freed from their wintry flood and

green with their harvest of

rice.

Skirting the base of Fort

Gorazda, the terraced hollow leading down to Cattaro

again comes in sight, contrasting with the barren declivities of

the Montenegrin peaks.

At each moment more

more bays, more snow-mountains seem

selves

before us, until

we

to

outline

perceive the open

Castelnuovo and can trace our route as on a

sea

map

hills,

them-

beyond
in the

wonderful panorama.
After crossing the empty bed of the mountain torrent,
196

ENTERING MONTENEGRO
Zvironjak,

we soon commence

the angular loops

shoulder of the mountain, which

is

upon the

so bare, so devoid of

vegetation, that they can be seen plainly for ten miles, at

least.

It is

a windless day and warm; the range of snow-

capped mountains seems unreal. Fort Trinita lies far

below us. The grade is not so steep, but there is not a breath

and not a drop of water to be had.

We rest our heated engine and throw off our wraps. The
Adriatic sparkles in the noon sunshine beyond a range of
of air

A curtained carriage passes from which

mottled mountains.

peeps a woman's red-capped head above her

neck-

brilliant

More loops and ever more extended

and apron.
views until we come to a road-maker's house, where pre-

erchief

How

cious water can be obtained.

actually to live perched

mendous landscape
As we wait for
pears in the

up on such a

before one

marvellous

it

must be

height with such a tre-

the radiator to be

doorway and we look

filled,

woman

ap-

each other curiously.

at

She does not lack for color among these gray rocks.

Her

bright plaid skirt and red-striped waist are intensified by a

scarlet neckerchief

and white head-covering.

Unseen songsters trill their music

and, from the crags, as we go on, a

in this rocky waste,

flock of

by our approach, wheel and

birds, startled

coming so near that we can

see their

large,

sail

black

overhead,

wing feathers

free at

the outer edge.

"Can you
must be

count them?" I cry.

"I should think there

forty."

"What

are they?" asks the Leader.

197

MOTORING
"I
must

am

see

not

answer.

sure,"

whether there

THE BALKANS

IN
is

"Possibly vultures.

a book on the birds of this region."

Waiting two minutes to enable a carriage to pass us, we

ascend five steep windings, and a seemingly interminable

number

of

them confront

I believe that there are sixty-

us.

The panorama

eight altogether.

deur as we mount upward.

abundant and we catch the

increases in sublime gran-

Black and white terns are

flash of white feathers, denot-

ing vesper sparrows or mountain juncos.

resonant cavern,

we wait

six

Then

passing a

minutes while some Monte-

negrin horses become acquainted with our automobile and

are willing to be led by.
in blue,

baggy

The

trousers, red

striped sash, white socks,

riders are gorgeously attired

short

coat,

and yellow

red

and blue shoes, and the red

cap embroidered with the golden monogram, "N. I." in

Greek letters, which all loyal Montenegrins wear. For

we

are

now

Montenegro, having passed the Austrian

a
moment
boundary
ago, and soon we reach the top of the
pass (3051

in

feet).

"It has taken us just an hour and a half to

in the world," exclaims the Enthusiast, as

the shoulder of

Lovcen and, leaving the

rise so

high

we sweep around
forts

and endless

windings of our route, leaving the imposing and rock-ridged

peninsula of

Vrmac between two bays

of the Bocche, leav-

ing the gray mountains of Krivosije toward

the sparkling Adriatic,

and

get our

first

we descend

Ragusa and

into a stony high plateau

impressions of Montenegro.

The roadbed

beyond words, but

with a grandeur of vast towering heights and great snowfields,
is

distinctly rough, the landscape barren

198

'
'

TB^\^^-\

>'i
-

if

-?"'
.'

THE HOTEL AT

.ii.^-/.'

N'JECIUS,

MOXTEXKC.Ri

CETINJE FROM THE HOTEL

-^

WIXOOW

;-.<#

ENTERING MONTENEGRO
the mighty peaks of

Lovcen

tered coves small patches of

queer circular

fields the

In scat-

rise into the clouds.

young oaks are growing, and

men

are ploughing, a

woman

in

twirls

her distaff as she walks, boys in white lamb's-wool clothes

take off their red caps as

we approach, standing

at attention

in military fashion.

The

straggling village of Njegus

the simple
out.

It is

summer home

is

soon passed and

of the reigning dynasty pointed

a curious country which

lies

behind us as we

begin to climb over the pass of ICrivacko Zdrjelo (4298

feet).

The low houses

are roofed with

flat,

overlapping

stones, the green crater-like fields are enclosed with stone

and round, paved spaces, evidently threshing floors,

are also surrounded by rough boulders; from this gray
walls,

basin rise bleak and

sterile hillsides,

the eternal snows of Lovcen.

beyond which extend

Here, evidently, the

women

are not mere butterflies of fashion, nor kept secluded in a

place apart.

They have

the freedom of the open fields,

should the fancy seize them,

may walk down

mountain paths with barrels of water on

know this, for we saw them doing it.

and

the stony

their backs.

We

In four long loops we continue our ascent, interested in

each new bird or wild flower.

precious water

is

At a wayside trough, where

abundant, we again give our faithful motor

a drink, and making one more loop attain the top of the pass.

What a marvellous, overwhelming, and different panorama

now extends below us on this day of great sensations! We
realize,

as

never before, the tremendous age of Mother

Earth, so wrinkled and creased, so haggard and worn are

199

MOTORING
There

her features.

is

broken heaps of rock

THE BALKANS

IN

no smooth surface anywhere, only

chain after

in inconceivable disorder,

chain of distant peaks, and on the horizon a long range of

snow-covered mountains.

"That

Albania," cries the Leader, when we have

is

taken breath, "and there

the

Lake

do

you see

it

sparkle

lies

of Scutari."

Near us

the Karst

is

dappled with the shadows of flying

clouds; forests of budding beeches and small oaks lend color

to the scene,
last

and a

bird's song, rich, full,

and

free,

adds the

touch to our satiated senses.

We

descend rapidly by sharp and narrow windings,

passing picturesque thatched houses and peasants in graceful

by

Soon Cetinje comes

costumes.
soft blue

peaks

by snow-capped heights, and in

More windings and twists and short

turns down, above a valley

the

little

bow from

into green

The men working

in the fields rise

boys doff their caps, stand very

the waist

and brown

straight into a red-roofed city.

highway leads

It is Cetinje.

us;

mapped

separated by gray stone walls

treeless

surrounded

sight,

set off

the distance Scutari.

fields

in

down, deeply; the

Do

timid and graceful curtsey.

little

and

salute

straight,
girls

and

drop a

they think us the royal

For motor clothes are a complete disguise, and

royalty alone owns automobiles in Montenegro.
family?

By
hotel

the time

we

we

arrive at the door of the comfortable

are quite ready for our luncheon, and to our joy

discover that French ideals reign in the kitchen.

Turkish

coffee

Only the

reminds us that we are really in the Orient

200

CHAPTER XIX
CETINJE
"

A RE

you tired?" asked the Enthusiast, as we went up

to our rooms.

"No,

'm not particularly

Content, *'but

think

tired,"

we ought

Madame

answered

to rest a

little

before seeing

anything more, don't you?"

It
ties

seemed a waste of time

to rest

when such opportuni-

But there was no law against

the window, and that alone might well keep

were within our grasp.

looking out of

one interested for hours.

It is

a continuous mediaeval

bration, a succession of brilliant pictures

of soft tans

beyond the

How

on a stage

and greens, with the billowy blue

cele-

setting

hills rising

red-tiled houses.

truly splendid the

broad avenue in

all

men

appear, sauntering

the

the bravery of scarlet and blue, with

gold embroidery and hanging cloaks

a dazzling

down

there

is

away

the sun goes with them.

effect of

When

gorgeous color,

But

they approach

when they turn

for their stern coun-

tenances and long revolvers thrust carelessly through the

broad sashes, they seem just ready to go on for private

The universal round scarlet cap bound with
theatricals.
black "as a sign of mourning for the loss of Servian free-

dom," with
is

the Prince's initials in gold within a rainbow,

very becoming to these handsome men, and their uni-

forms of dark blue, or pale blue, or white, show

20I

off to per-

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

One

fection their magnificent physique.

clothes except

on the occasional

no European

sees

Only

foreigner.

rarely

a wheeled vehicle of any kind appears in the broad avenue,

but six and eight abreast the

marked by their
clanking Russian swords, walk leisurely up and down,
Do the women peer at them
objects of admiration indeed.
officers,

from behind the blinds of the pale pink and green stucco
houses ?
for no ladies are to be seen in public.

countryman drives

his

toward his home outside the

for there are eight of

He

city.

them and they have

His long white

them.

rebelling

pigs

has his hands

eight

brown struka

minds among

coat-tails fly in the breeze as

as a

whip

to guide them.

One man

plough on his shoulder walks behind a yoke of oxen

wagon

up

fezes

in the market-place ?

in their tight, white trousers,

and white

his shoulder;
fills

amble

into

"Is

n't

we hasten

has he

town on donkeys.

A man climbs
can on

he carefully wipes the chimney with a clean

the lamp,

little

with a

with black applique, red jackets,

and descends,

to repeat his task all

the street, for not even gas has

quaint

he

group of Albanians

his ladder placed against the post, his kerosene

rag,

full,

one or the other, while he uses the end of his

strides after

sold his

him

before

come

down

to illuminate this

capital.

it

time for a walk?" asks a voice at the door, and

to

make

ready.

Placed at the end of the main street of the town, the

Katunska Ulica, the

commands

whole length. Still

farther to the south are the newly laid out park and the
palace of the

Crown

hotel

Prince.
202

The

its

royal palace of Prince

CETINJE
an unpretentious, comfortable-looking, large, sunny building, with a tiny balcony
over the main entrance and a beautiful garden at the back.
Nicola

I. is

Opposite

is

on a

street to the left,

who

the palace of Prince Mirko, the second son,

married Nathalie, the daughter of Colonel Constantinovich,

the

senior

representative

formerly rulers of Servia.

owing

of

Obrenovitch

the

Their son, the baby Michael,

to the childlessness of the

Crown

is,

Prince, the heir

Prince Mirko

presumptive to the crown of Montenegro.

much

dynasty,

is

liked everywhere.
gifted as a poet, a composer,

"Wonderfully
cian, adept in all

manly

and a musiand

sports, high-spirited

at the

same time sunny- tempered, having, moreover, managed to

keep his name clear of all those scandals in which his elder
brother has been implicated, he has always been the best
loved child of his parents, the favorite brother of his
the

Queen

of Italy,

sister,

and the most popular member of

his

house among his people."

little

farther

on

in the

sunny

street is

building called the Biljardo, the old palace,

supreme

court, a

tive offices.

grammar

Beyond

school,

now used

for a

and various administra-

at the base of the

it,

a fortress-like

Orlov Krs,

is

the

monastery of the Virgin, with its dignified little

church, a square campanile, and the burial place of
historic

the Petrovic dynasty

dome

protects the

on the quay

On

tomb

the very top of the

of Danilo II.,

at Cattaro in i860.

decessor of the present Prince.

of the

little city,

who was

He was

a gilded

assassinated

the uncle

The view from

in the midst of green fields

203

hill,

and pre-

that point

surrounded by

MOTORING
bare mountain peaks,

is

IN

THE BALKANS

beautiful in the sunset and

we were

well repaid for our climb.

The

Montenegro was founded by the few

these Black Mountains when the Turks

principality of

Servians

who

fled to

conquered Servia
maintained their

Here they have

independence with astonishing skill and

in the fourteenth century.

Every Montenegrin, be he old or young, belongs

the army and can be relied upon to fight for his country in

courage.
to

was only in 1878 that by the treaty of

principality was recognized by the Powers and
But

time of need.
Berlin this

it

the two seaports of Antivari and Dulcigno assured to them.

The

progressive policy and accomplishments of the present

ruler, his simplicity

him dear
Europe.

to his

He

and good judgment, have not only made

own

people, but

won

for

him

the respect of

introduced an improved code of laws in 1888,

and by sanctioning the new route from Dalmatia, made it

possible and pleasant for strangers to visit this interesting

Only 3500 square miles in area, it contains a quara million of inhabitants, and when one realizes the

country.
ter of

stony character of the

soil,

the severe climate, the conditions

under which they labor, one cannot but admire the loyalty,
the courage, and the kindness of this splendid mountain
race.

"My

brain

is

just as full of

new

possibly hold," I asserted, boldly, as

ward

in the twilight.

impressions as

it

can

we meandered home-

"How grateful the darkness will be!"

But with the blessed

light of

a new day fatigue had

dropped from me and I was eager as ever for novel sights

and experiences. It was Sunday morning, and a brilliantly
204

4;-

II.

R.

H. I'RIXCK

MCOLA

-^Sasiai^

1.,

TIIF,

-Hl^J

KL-LKR OF

MoXTKXEGR O

II.

R.

H.

I'RIXCKSS MILEXA,

COXSORT OV PRIXCE XICOLA

I.

CETINJE
marked songster in the sycamore close to my window had
awakened me. Between the stuccoed houses the same gayly
attired

crowd sauntered

in the

distance appeared a white charger no mere

slowly, four or five abreast.

But
horse

could look so dignified nor bear his trappings with such

Salutes and lifted caps told of

noble grace.

some personage,

watched as he approached deliberately down the long

avenue. He was a portly gentleman, of splendid stature,

and

with white hair and iron-gray moustache.

Over

his coat of

robin's-egg blue he wore a sleeveless scarlet jacket, elaborately embroidered in gold;

was wonderfully

crimson velvet saddle cloth

his

cap was the same

was the Prince. With a

beautiful, too, but his

that the subjects wore, although this

benevolent smile he greeted his people, and passing under

my

window, enjoying

his cigarette, he disappeared

toward

the mountains.

"I'm

afraid the car won't

morning,

sir," I

"for they

're

look very well to-morrow

hear in muffled accents outside

afraid I

'11

spot the clothes.

But

my
'11

door,

do the

best I can."

My

curiosity

"Where

is

aroused.

the garage here?" I ask at breakfast.

"Come and

am

is

see."

And through

led out into a small yard

hung

the spotless kitchen I

thickly with the weekly

wash.

"Don't they ever take

after

we have unearthed

"If they do, another

swers,

"and

the

it

in?"

motor

set is

ask the chaufifeur,

in its midst.

put out right away," he an-

of course, with just a pail

205

and a cloth you can't

MOTORING
make

it

look

very

disfavor

tinct

his

this yard, too,

THE BALKANS

IN

And

well."

all

regarded

"There are

precious car.

and they

he

in the

live

with dissix cats in

automobile,"

he

drawls.

Evidently he does not take the same rosy view of out-of-

the-way places that we do. But this was, I must say, as

near finding fault as he ever came. Resourceful and determined, adaptable, punctual, and keen, quick to act in time
of need, quiet and respectful, he contributed much to our
comfort in this tour through strange lands.

We

on the broad avenue and

join the sauntering groups

admire anew the

bottle green,

hooked

to

Some

festive throng.

some

of the long coats are

some have an extra jacket

Many drape about them the

lined with red,

the shoulders.

long fringed struka, a native shawl of a rich

brown shade,

touched here and there with brilliant tones, ending with

"a,

long flowing fringe of various colored wools in knots and

This fringe swings heavily from side to side as they

walk, neariy sweeping the ground, and giving the wearers a
tassels.

very magnificent and stately air."

from the shoulders

protects

them

perfectly;

in graceful folds.
their

We

wool

coats,

rains
if

it is

cold

Her white wool

skirt is

possibly in deference to

it

hangs

wrapped around them

The men wear their

but the women let the
to see

needed

put over their heads and

it is

enough

are fortunate

costume.

if it

If not

rich sashes over

coats

hang

free.

one lady in the national

made with a deep

European

flounce,

ideas, the long sleeveless

cloth coat of an exquisite robin's-egg blue

is

worn over a thin

white blouse with tight sleeves and trimmed with bands of

2o6

thp:

struka

MONTENEGRIN OFFICERS

CETINJE
A

embroidery.

and she

black lace

from her braided hair

veil falls

carries a white parasol.

One morning

we walked

as

the dazzling white light,

saw a long

idly

down

the

Katunska

in

which reminded us of Greece, we

line of soldiers

drawn up outside

the door of a

small church.
"It

is

the service

at the palace,

the court chapel," replied a guard

on being questioned.

"Is the Prince there, too?"

*'Si, Signora,^^

he answered.

kodaking him?"
He shrugged his shoulders and kept his eyes on my little
black box as I sat upon a friendly boulder, patiently awaiting
"Will there be any objection to

the completion of the service.

my

It

was but a step from

church to palace, and a pretty sight when the Prince appeared

between his two daughters, walking across the square, and
followed by his escort of officers and a

Upon

company

of soldiers.

gaining his balcony, he turned and stood quietly

attentive,

smoking

his cigarette as the

men, carrying no

arms except the inevitable revolver thrust through the belt,

marched by into the garden of the palace. There was no
music, no attempt at display, only the regular Sunday morning ceremonial, very charming to see.

handsome young

fellow,

moulded

into his spotless

uniform, dangling his white kid gloves, hurried up the steps

as the Prince went within.
"
Do you think that was Prince Pierre ?" cried the Enthusiast.

"It might be," was the calm reply.

207

MOTORING
''It

certainly resembled his photographs," responded the

Enthusiast, "and I think

''Oh,
for the

THE BALKANS

IN

if

it

was."

your kodak would only take color," exclaimed,

hundredth time, the Gentle Lady.

"7/, indeed!"

comes,

"When

answered.

just think

We

that

have to go

shall

all

happy time
around the

world again to get fresh pictures.'

In the afternoon a military band marched gayly by our
windows, playing strange music with agreeable skill, and

went on into the park to give the usual Sunday concert.

But we had other projects. From the old Turkish battery

we had seen a long white road, beginning behind

hospital on the edge of the town and gradually ascend-

on the
the

hill

ing a low ridge to the top, where

"That must be

the

way

only

way

disappeared.

to Rjeka,"

"I wonder how good the road

"The

it

mused

the Leader.

is."

to find out

is

to

go and see," somewhat

mockingly replied the Enthusiast.

So after luncheon a small carriage, drawn by three
horses, appeared at the door and we trotted briskly through
the short streets of the tiny city until the long ascent began.

We

missed the steady upward motion of the automobile,

but we had
as

we

We

all

the

many

teous salutes;

watch the

country people

this

who

dignified

little city.

greeted us with cour-

young women shy and with downcast

Swinging up the long

and

sights about us

the older peasants, especially, were punctil-

iously polite, the

folk,

leisure to

rose above the regularly built

passed

eyes.

more

was evidently

a
208

hill

were

favorite

well-dressed

city

promenade when

CETINJE
more

was

exercise

needed than

the

broad

Katunska

afforded.

At the top of the ridge, beyond the small inn, we descended to an elbow curving toward the east, and there we
obtained a splendid view of the Lake of Scutari and the

snow-capped Albanian Alps. The Leader's enthusiasm was

undiminished by the surfeit of landscapes on which we had
feasted the

day
"The Lake

before.

murmured.

of Scutari," I
It

we

down upon

looking

actually

neighboring

in

cell

mean

to

my memory
The

and Lalla Rookh!

occupies a

It

to the Vale of

Cashmere

strange adventure."

could just as well have come in the automobile,"

interrupted the Leader, "and then

down

it.

very words Albania, Macedonia,

me romance and

"We

it

does not seem possible that

with tales of the Orient.

are

"I associate

to Rjeka.

"Why

can't

The road
we

drive

we could have run on

looks very good."

down?

It is

only eight and a half

miles from Cetinje, the book says."

"Yes, but

it is

2000

feet

below

it,

and think of the climb

We

would not be home before midnight."

The valley immediately below us is bleak and stony and
sterile, and as we slowly wend our way back to the tiniest

back!

Europe a crescent moon hangs in the western sky,

with Venus brilliant above it. This star and crescent is not
capital in

our only reminder of the Turks

museums
pistols,

are

many

in these parts.

In their new

trophies and flags, swords, cannon, and

taken from their hereditary foes by the small Monte-

negrin army.

One

native

gun
209

is

of

enormous length and

is

MOTORING
said, in the

IN

THE BALKANS

hands of a famous hero,

three hundred Turks.

tury have the

but after their

have held

Three times even within the

Turks invaded
last

to

this

at

bay

last

cen-

"troublesome country,"

severe defeat at Grahovo, in 1858, they

ceased to molest the Montenegrins.

210

CHAPTER XX
BACK INTO DALMATIA

TT

was the most

left

the

morning when we
of Montenegro and

beautiful, clear, crisp

attractive

little

capital

on our long drive back over the Black Mountains

The streets were filled with the same gay
into Dalmatia.
started

throng.

Indeed, by half-past five there were already four

groups of

men walking up and down

in

heavy overcoats,

although the sun was sparkling, and as we

left

the hotel

door we caught a glimpse of the Prince on his white charger,

getting his

morning

The snowy

exercise.

heights of

the end of the road, as

after

Lovcen
if

we began our winding

Prince Peter

11.

ing fields on

its

rose straight before us at

to prevent

our passage.

ascent the mortuary chapel of

could be plainly seen in the midst of

summit.

Soon

Near

from where the ascent of Lovcen

glitter-

the guard house at Krstac,

is

often made,

we encoun-

tered a shepherd in the raggedest outfit I have ever seen

hold together, but he swung a silver-handled umbrella as he

walked along, and through his sash was thrust a revolver of
beautiful workmanship.

The

loops seemed even steeper than

When

we remembered

was necessary to back

to get around, and there happened to be no parapet to the
road and the distance down was many hundred feet of

them and the turns

shorter.

it

sheer rock, our sensations were grewsome!

gained the top of Krivacko Zdrjelo in

211

But we had

thirty- nine

minutes

MOTORING
from the

THE BALKANS

IN

and looking down the long winding on the

hotel,

other side, discovered the daily diligence before us.

"They must have

started about five o'clock, I should

Madame

think," remarked

Content, "and what time do

you suppose they get to Cattaro?"

"Easily enough for luncheon."

"I

am

thankful

we could

motor across," she

get the

answered, and sank back with new appreciation of her blessings, as

we

slid

by the dusty diligence and saw Njegus

in the

rocky basin below.

When we

stopped at the hotel to procure a picture of the

Prince's birthplace,

we

discovered that one of our extra tins

had become loosened by

and had slipped somewhere down the

of gasoline, taken in case of need,

the tremendous jolting

mountain-side.

"I do hope some one will find it," commented the Leader,
"Won't
looking back searchingly along the bare highway.
there be a celebration

picked up

among

when a

twelve-litre tin of gasoline

ragged shepherd with his

we were on

he thought of the

silver heirlooms.

Across the stony valley we

utes

And

the boulders?"

is

rolled,

and

in seven

min-

the top of the second pass, with again the

wonderful prospect of the Bocche and mountains surrounding it. The marvellous beauty of this indescribable scene
impressed us anew.

The shadows

to give an entirely different

light in

which we had seen

the extraordinary

on the

morning seemed
impression from the flat noonit.

highway lay

of the

Beyond

in apparently careless folds

side of the bare mountain.

212

the Krstac grotto

Twenty-six different

n
PI

BACK INTO DALMATIA

we could

levels

clearly count before

We

dant valley back of Cattaro.

us and

all

it

left

was

lost in the ver-

Montenegro behind

our senses were absorbed by the new phases of

the route.

The Bay of Traste beyond the green Zupa valley came

nearer.
And now at almost every turn we were forced to

What confidence it implies in your

your car when you can sit calmly poised on
back.

chauffeur and
the outer edge

of awful abysses waiting for the right lever to be touched,

which means a gentle impulse forward around the short

curve
It is never wise to think of what would surely hap!

pen

if

the

wrong

lever were pulled

Coasting quietly

down

suring brake to control our

the steep incline with the reasflight,

the Gulf of Cattaro, fringed

with the white houses and tiny enclosed harbors of happy

stood forth sharply in the brilliant sunshine.

sailors,

The

yellow green tufts of the bush spurge {Euphorbia biglandu-

were a distinctive feature of these rock-strewn slopes,

the spiny-toothed eryngiums and thistles sprang from masslosa)

es

of fine

debris,

curious plant

and here

known

in

rank abundance grew the

as "Christ's thorn" (Paliurus acetalus),

supposed to be the one of which the crown of

thorns was made.
for

it

is

We

slipped by the water fountain at the wayside, by the

sheer rock of Fort Gorazda, by the sentinels at Fort Trinity,

and descended
formed.

to the green valley before the

Then bowling

caravan had

merrily along the smooth, level

avenue, by Perzagno and the two Stolivos,

Perasto, on the opposite shore, with
213

its

we came

to

where

pointed campanile,

MOTORING
its

THE BALKANS

IN

overshadowing precipice, and

tions,

was

its

commanding

fortifica-

perfectly reflected in the glassy water.

With a

farewell glance at the Gulf of Cattaro, at the

cypresses and straight, gray walls of San Giorgio and her

sister islet "floating like the flat leaves of the water-lily

we turned

the surface of the bay,"

of

Le Catene and

It

was not

pulled

yet ten o'clock

into the

narrow

straits

up on the tiny quay at Lepetane.

and we had an hour to wait. Sit-

ting under the spreading mulberry-trees, in the

away from

on

the heat of the sun,

soft

we could not choose a

air

quieter,

lovelier spot.

change my kodak spool in here?" I asked, as I

looked in at an open door of a plain stone house adjoining

"May

the quay.
opposite,

had seen that there was another door

which served

to light the

dark

interior.

directly

A counter

ran across one side, with bottles and boxes of various kinds

Behind the counter a

displayed on shelves to the ceiling.

little

down

dried-up, sweet-faced

woman

looked mystified.

I sat

in one of the chairs before the tables on the other side

and began my work.

that she had nothing to furnish

of the shop

As soon
in the

as she understood

way

of photographic

material she was relieved and most hospitable.

"Prego,
racked

my

I could

buy.

Signora,^'

she

continually

brain and searched the shelves for something

"Have you any cartoline?"

And such a medley
Illustrate?
^'

interpolated.

^^

as she produced!
"
But of Lepetane ?

of tinsel

The Bocche ?"

314

and

actresses

BACK INTO DALMATIA

'^Non

c'^," she cheerfully

remarked.

"It

is

too small

a village."

"Wouldn't Madame

And a

like to rest

her while waiting?"

conducted us up a steep, bare, clean little stairway to a spotless room, where bunches of lilacs in vases
sister

on the stand captured our hearts. She closed the small

windows and set forth chairs, but we had caught a glimpse
of a garden on this level and looked out so eagerly that there,
too,

we were allowed
and

to wander.

The

turnips and lettuce,

grew in friendly company; a tiny

place with paths carefully marked by stones, a screened
the roses

lilacs, all

yard for the chickens, about as big as a dining-room table,

and beyond the stone wall the blue waters of the Bocche,
with snowy mountains still farther away. The friendly
and placed a
with which she

soul searched the garden for the best rose

crimson wall flower in the bunch of

These two gentle

presented us.
for us

whatever they could

lilacs

sisters

were ready to do

they did not intrude, but were

plainly interested in our curious doings.

The huge

mulberries shading the tiny port; the pink

roses hanging over the

creamy stone walls

fusion; the steep paths of steps straight

up

in lavish pro-

the

hill to

other

and houses perched among the olive orchards; an

occasional kerchiefed damsel with copper jar coming after
streets

water to the well; a ferryman calling in musical cadence

from

his boat; a passing black craft, low, with

propelled

by

one could get

man,

in

draped

sail,

what pictures
standing men
long oars
But
three languages
Ger
French
was "Warnung"
up
at

plainly, in

Italian,

in

in

set

215

MOTORING
on a conspicuous
Bocche."

THE BALKANS

IN

"No

pole.

photographing about

the

After an hour of impatient contemplation of this sign-

a soldier appeared who either just happened along or

was sent to watch my poor little innocent box. I immedi-

post,

ately took advantage of the opportunity

kindly
to

me

tell

whom

to

must apply

kodak our motor standing

and asked him

to

to secure permission

helpless before that

narrow

thought that opened negotiations very diplomat-

strait.

ically.

He

looked perfectly blank.

He knew no

Italian.

Again my good friend, the mistress of the shop, came to my

aid and translated into Slavic my request.
The officer in
charge was away.
respectfully as

As

the good
I

"Sergeant"

asked her to see

would be any objections

there

her that

earth"

it

if

the

Madame

would be

all

dame addressed him most

to

my

if

he thought

He

pictures.

assured

kept her camera "pointed to the

right,

but as to the heights, "Nay,

nay."
I

now why
be forbidden to me

cannot see

should

exactly alike.

confined

my

However,

those green and gray hillsides

the

modern

forts all look so

his

prejudices and

respected

attention to the "earth."

A demure

little girl

of about eleven, dressed in black

and

with neatly braided hair and long downcast lashes, gathered

courage to approach the stranded

visitors,

useful Slavic sentence, with a smile.

(How do

pointing to herself.
the
ta/^

name of that ?)
and

was

and

^'Kako

I risked

my

se zove ova?^'

they call that? or,

What

is

Without hesitation she answered "Agus-

lost

in

admiration of her understanding.

216

BACK INTO DALMATIA

Now my linguistic abilities were

reduced to naught.

no other phrase, but a happy thought struck me.

ing to a green-domed church on the

hill

knew

Point-

above a lighthouse

on the opposite shore, I repeated my useful phrase. Again

and as that was the word I ex'^Josica'^
an answer

pected I recognized

Probably

it

with delight.

should have gone on indefinitely indicating

had not a tug just then

appeared from the Vallone of Risano and approached our
"Is it going for the
dock, but alas! it steamed by us.
different features of the landscape

barge?"

We

Castelnuovo,

Bay.

watch
it

it

until, instead of

proceeding toward

Teodo

turns and skirts the south shore of

Before very long

it

reappears, however, towing the

expected barge, and we welcome effusively the courteous

captain

and

his

efficient

crew

This time

they

have

procured a larger sort of a tank barge with a flat deck

which comes even with the dock, so that our car goes on
without the least

difficulty.

Under an awning on the

arranged for us and as we

accompanying tug, seats are

steam away I look back at the shady quay and the gray
Over the door is a sign: "Rachella
stone house beside it.
Marchesini, Prodaja, Jestvina Rukotvorine

from a half-open upper window, a sweet-faced old

is leaning, gayly waving ^^Buon Viaggio.''^

We

And
woman

vina."

part from our government aid on the quay at

Kam-

enari with mutual expressions of satisfaction and meet with

no further adventures as we speed by fields of yellow daisies

"
and gardens of pink valerian, towards the Griinen Strand"
at

Zelenika.

More

delicious
217

Hungarian cooking awaits

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

us there and after luncheon and a short rest we leave for

Ragusa.

The

blue-backed swallows rest quietly on the

fearless

we whiz under them,

wires as

the bells of Santa Savina

sound the quarter-hour far in the distance. Through the

entrance to the Bocche a two-masted schooner is fleeing

from the

rising

The round tower

wrath of the Adriatic.

and we stop

of Fort Spagnuolo appears above ivy bastions

at

Castelnuovo in order that our Leader

Austrian

officials to

tating our

"It

tower

's

may

call

upon

thank them for their courtesy in

Montenegrin

facili-

trip.

pretty warm, but

walk up

let 's just

won't you?" as the Gentle Lady

climbed the stone-paved

the

street looking

to that

hesitated,

little

and we

down through narrow

openings to the blue waters of the Bocche far below. Patient

little donkeys toiled up the steep incline laden with heavy
bags.

To my

surprise they did not pause at the entrance

of a shop, but calmly walked

up the

and

in at the

open
needed
some
assistance
to
door.
Occasionally they
get
were
and
I
as
the
stuffed
saddle-bags
bulky.
through,

wanted

to follow

them

to the higher stories as I

The sun was

my

to see

am

dazzling.

steps

whether or not they climbed

very sure they could.

"I must

find a place to

kodak spool," exclaimed the Enthusiast.

archway

led

by shallow paved steps

to a small court,

a carpenter's shop disclosed a store of shavings.

change

An open
I

where
peered

within.

"Might

arrange

my

camera here?

get out of the light."

218

It is

necessary to

AT CAS1KL.\UIJ\0

BACK INTO DALMATIA

"But
for a

yes," exclaimed the

damp

cloth,

man,

with which, in a

end of a long table and watched

accustomed task.

"From

delightedly,
trice,

me

and rushed
off

one

began

my

was

his

he wiped

intently as I

Trieste?" he muttered.

"No, from America,"

"Ah, indeed.

answered.

have a son

in

America,"

proud response.

And whereabouts

"Have you?

in

America might he

be?"
"In Buenos Ayres," he answered.
I am from America del Nord."
"Oh, America del Sud

This made

America a

little

far

impression,

across

country

America was

could see.
the

sea why

make

invidious distinctions ?

"And how

"A

long has your son been there?"

year."

"And

does he

like it?'

"Very much."
"It must be different from here."

"Madame

likes

it

here?"

"Very much indeed.

Cetinje
[It is

We left

now about

The Bocche

is

enchanting and

Cetinje this morning after seven o'clock

three.]

What

a wonderful drive

down

the

mountain!"

The man was

he did not hear

looking at

my

me more

intently.

enthusiastic remark.

am

sure

There was no

steamer that day, and to drive from Cetinje meant eleven

hours without stopping.
219

MOTORING
"Yes,"

THE BALKANS

IN

went on, enjoying

but apparently occupied with

his speaking countenance,

my

camera, "and we had to

wait two hours at the ferry for the boat

"She would have been here two hours

otherwise "

ago, only she

to wait for the ferry," mechanically repeated the

who had

his assistant,

And

ently.

joined

they both fixed

him an

me

had

man

to

apprentice, appar-

with a solemn gaze.

"Oh, and we were an hour and a

half at Zelenika for

luncheon," I went on, casually.

"An
little,

hour and a half," he whispered, and edged away a

with the shock of it all, trying to make up his mind

what kind

had strayed

of a lunatic

"In an automobile one can

into his establishment.

get over a great deal of

This explanation so relieved his mind

that he unconsciously relaxed and became the attentive
ground, you see."

thanked him at parting he was all smiles

and "Kuss die Hand,^^ and when we whirled away from

As

host again.

Castelnuovo some time

roadside and

waved us a

the people are

It

before

was very

after,

he stood bareheaded by the

With what joy they

hot.

we reached

How

respectful salutation.

serve one

kindly

Our poor engine gasped

for breath

the top of the ridge separating the Suto-

rina from the Val Canali, but our friend, the brook, rippling

down

The

the stony slope, offered her services for our

relief.

an extra

pailful

radiator tank

carried along,

was emptied and

and merrily

we

refilled,

sailed above the

silver sea, the

ancient Epidaurus, the cascades and the mill of Breno,

Lacroma's wooded isle and Orsola's gray crags, until the

welcome walls of Ragusa, lying below Mount Sergius, grew

220

BACK INTO DALMATIA

ever nearer and nearer, and as

we dismounted from the motor

door we realized that our tour to Montenegro,

instead of being a doubtful future experiment, had now

at the hotel

become one

of our most unusual, delightful,

experiences.

221

and

thrilling

CHAPTER XXI
ENTERING THE HERZEGOVINA RAGUSA TO GACKO
VIA TREBINJE

U AGUSA

means

me

and wistaria against

old ivory walls; black rocks where sea-green water
breaks in a million sparkles air sweet with gorse and pine
to

purple

iris

and a moving crowd

golden days

wooded

in all

in brilliant national

we

linger there,

costumes!

wandering

Eight

up

the

Lapad and Lacroma, or climbing the

Monte Sergio, where wild flowers in new and

slopes of

rough paths of

tantalizing variety spring

from between the rocks, saunter-

ing through the sunlit streets of this southern city where

Slav and Latin meet.

our

last visit to the fair

leave

it

Around
passing

Dalmatian

city,

may

be

or never could I

with so light a heart on this gay and cloudless morn-

when we

ing

dare not think that this

set

out for the Herzegovina.

the old Minceta

many women

Tower and

the castle at the port

with their white-covered baskets on

through sloping acres of wild iris and aloe, popabove the hazy sea we continue
pies and the yellow gorse
our joumeyings. We glance at San Giacomo and take a last
their heads;

look at Ragusa as

we round a promontory; then

after follow-

ing the lovely curves of the Val d 'Orsola, near a small settle-

ment known as Dubac, we turn to the left on our way to

Below us, in our curving ascent, the Val di Breno
Trebinje.
lies,

perhaps the

prettiest valley in

222

Dalmatia.

And

this

must

RAGUSA TO GACKO
surely be the loveliest time of the year, with

new

shades of green from cypresses to the

We

down with

the varying

grain.

shel-

from the northern winds where

tered vale, indeed, protected

the sun pours

all

fervid heat.

are glad to reach the mountain top

and the

little

group of houses on the Herzegovinian frontier, known as

Ivanica.
Here a breeze is blowing and a woman, wearing
the tiny red cap with dilapidated white veil over

it,

is

grinding coffee in a long brass cylinder, which she twirls

as she

seen on

stares
all

at

us.

The road

signs.

characters are to be

Slavic

Only

our coats we turn back for a

is

and as we put on

fine;

last

look at the Adriatic,

which during so many weeks has been our constant com-

The country does

panion.

of upper Dalmatia,

some young

rocks

not differ materially from that

and

junipers, fields of grain,

but no yellow gorse.

trees,

As we

enter the

two old koulas, or Turkish watch towers,

appear on the hilltops, and my Cetinje songster, with others
defile of Drijen,

Suddenly I look up and the rocky

aspect has disappeared, oaks and elms abound with many
yellow-flowering bushes, whose locust-like racemes stand
of his kind,

Is

upright.

on

the

it

us.

by

A crested

a kind of laurustinus ?

ground,

us again;

beyond

flits

nearby.

hills rise

crowned

the

Gradually

on either side and

beautiful green stream

is

rocks

enclose

mountain peaks

A
Montenegro.
seen below us, which we soon

the snows

by

lark alights

of

cross.

"What

did you say

"Wait

will

its

name was?"

I ask.

write it," he calls back, after vainly

223

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

make me understand

trying to

"

of paper.

The

and soon he hands me a sHp

Trebisnjica or Tribinjcica."

"No wonder I did not catch it," I remark, somewhat

"I am going to call it the Trebinje River."
wearily.
A curious round fort loop-holed for musket-fire stands
at

each end of the bridge and the river twists in serpentine

Here vineyards

curves through the richly cultivated valley.

as well as rice

and tobacco

flourish,

Even

mountains are bleak and bare.

the heat

is

intense, the

snow

but the surrounding

in the dog-days,

when

lingers in the crevices of a

neighboring crater, so near that the natives bring

it

down,

at night, to cool their favorite drinks.

is

Trebinje

divided into two parts.

quaint and curious, and there

is

The

a charming

town

old

bit of

is

moat,

where moss-grown walls are reflected in still waters. The

new town outside is modern and clean. But the children

particularly the

little

It

girls!

female Turkish costume and

was

my

first

glimpse of the

could think of was a

all I

swarm

group of some twenty

black box and fled in all

of butterflies as, turning a corner, a

wee maidens caught

sight of

my

directions getting behind every available object and peer-

ing from around dark corners.

for

me

Such

in

my

brilliancy

How

of color!

that the Herzegovina

1878

nimble

The

waists

short

and baggy

round caps, were too quaint

for

longed to argue with them, to persuade them

to pose just once, but that

until

far too

astonishment at their objection to the camera.

trousers, the kerchiefs or

words

They were

was hopeless

must remember

and Bosnia were Turkish

territory

and although now under the administration

224

THE VOUXGER GEXERATKJX ARE ADOPTIXO EUROPEAX CLcmiES

(trebimje)

RAGUSA TO GACKO
of

Moslem

the

still

Austria,

traditions

are

carefully

respected.*

To any

one who has been

the bazaar at Trebinje

is

Cairo or Constantinople,

at

but a poor affair and the mosques

indifferent; although minarets,

when used

for the musical

The

call to prayer,

always produce a pleasing impression.

hotel

comfortable and the restaurant so popular

is

fairly

when

that

room

for

the

numerous

mere casual

officers are at table there is little

guests.

''Where can we leave the motor?" asks the Leader.

He

has long ago outgrown the habit of asking for a garage.

"Oh,
and

There

in that little garden.

have a

will

man

is

a fence about

it

to

watch

we

are not in Dalmatia, where the

it

while the chauffeur

eats his lunch."

It is quite

evident that

car has stood at the door, day and night, unmolested.

anxiety leads us to

visit

it

as

it

Our

stands in state under the

shady trees, and we find a red-fezzed native solemnly walking around it, with a stout stick, which he brandishes over
the heads of the small boys

too near.
are

His task

numerous and

As we

is

when

their curiosity leads

no sinecure,

them

either, as the youngsters

agile.

leave Trebinje, a

company

of soldiers

marching

and we have the novel sensation of riding

between ranks of armed men! There are soldiers everyin the road parts

where and

forts

from Trebinje

The macadamized road

on

all

to

Gacko, instead of following closely the

the heights.

*This was in May, 1908. In the following October these two provinces were
formally annexed and became an integral part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

225

MOTORING
waterway

THE BALKANS

IN

in the valleys, climbs

among

near the forts along the frontier and

the foot-hills keeping

is

maintained in

fine

When

one sees the Turkish mule tracks, formerly

the only means of communication in the mountains, one appreciates what Austria has done in her thirty years' control
condition.

of Bosnia

and the Herzegovina

roads throughout the country.

and the day

is

very

warm

in

making
The wind

we climb

as

these excellent
is

in the south

slowly along the

We

Karst, toward our destination for the night, Gacko.

have not been able to find any one who has been in Gacko,

much encouragement but

a fellow motorist, who has as-

nor does the guide-book give us

the leader pins his faith to

sured him that there

is

a government inn there, entirely

possible.

Just beyond a guard-house on a hilltop, a

we

woman,

spin-

pass, erect as a

young Greek
goddess, the wind blowing her black lamb's-wool coat back
from her embroidered apron. As long as we can see her,
ning, stands spellbound as

she stands motionless.

"Almost the Victory

ments my companion.

A
very

she?" com-

group of shepherdesses among the rocks seem to us

much

or cattle.
is

of Samothrace, isn't

dressed up, tending their flock of goats or sheep

The dark blue

trimmed with bands of

skirt,

reaching just below the knee,

red, the sleeveless long white coat

goes over a blue long-sleeved waist and the small red cap

has a white kerchief pinned over

it,

while a red-tasselled

flat

pouch is borne on the arm. An older woman is draped in a

brown struka. An Othello stalks by in gorgeous raiment;
226

RAGUSA TO GACKO
embroidered with gold, and the flower
in his turban, making an effective picture.
his red velvet jacket

After a particularly trying "up" in the midst of our undulating progress,

we

stop to beg for water from a barrel by

For water

the wayside.

a valuable commodity in this

is

barren desert and every drop

"Is

n't there

in the intervals

is

highly treasured.

any level country at all ?" asks the chauffeur,

of changing speed and applying the brakes.

"No, it is all mountains," quietly

and we continue going down and up

assures the Leader;

again, meeting

more

gorgeously attired gentlemen ambling along on donkeys.

Huge

horses, splendid in brass

and

tasselled harness

and

drawing loads of supplies to the military encampments, pass

We

descend to cross a three-arched stone bridge over

the Trebinjcica River and rise to new heights at Mosko.
us.

From

the low doorways of

the tiny settlement pour the

picturesque inhabitants, men,

"The

women, and

source of the Trebinjcica

tain wall," points the Leader;

are

"F.
the

confronted
J.

anew with

L," some ten

mountain

as

the

is

beneath that moun-

we pass Neu-Bilek and

striking

feet long, outlined in

slope.

The

lilacs

children.

and

imperial

initials,

white stones upon

bloom

fruit-trees are in

here in this oasis watered by the river.

Taking advantage
flying

Of

of a particularly

bang!
along the highway when

course,

no one of us

rejoices

smooth

when we

tire

lose

bit,

we

are

has burst.
tire,

but

if

must occur, no place could be more propitious than in

this town of Bilek, some eighteen miles from
Trebinje and
it

the only place of any size until

we reach

227

the plain of Gacko.

MOTORING
A

THE BALKANS

IN

group of natives gather

in silent

awe and

watch the chauffeur repair the damage.

curiosity to

They form a

gay costumes, against the gray stone

Only one adventurous little girl steals, silently,

brilliant picture in their

walls.

huge chauffeur; while from a neighboring balcony a woman leans for information and a gay retort. A
Turkish house, with overhanging eaves, stands at the corner
close to the

where our highway leads and higher up, above some turbaned graves, a mosque with tall white minaret appears.

Near

us, before

wheel,

filling

a high stone wall, a

woman

turns a squeaky

her shiny cans with water from the village

and every animal that passes stops

draught before he wanders on again.
well,

While the Leader goes

to get a cooling

to the telegraph office to wire

we two seek

Trieste for another tire to meet us farther on,

further diversion.

"Oh, do come here!"

whisper, as I turn

my

calls

my

companion,

in

film for a fresh exposure,

an excited

and follow-

toward us a

ing her fixed gaze, I see striding

up

wonderfully picturesque couple.

He, of course, marches

ahead, brave in his holiday

leading his trusty

attire,

the

hill

tain horse loaded with well-filled saddle-bags.

moun-

But the coy

young mountain maid, how truly splendid her appearance!

Do

"Oh!
Content
for the
is

but I

countenance of the

may

wool

a bride?" asks

am too busy trying to get

no Turk, but he

She

it's

you suppose

man

may have

is

stern

Madame

a picture to answer,

and forbidding.

He

prejudices against the camera.

be from Albania, possibly, for she wears over her

skirt

and embroidered apron a long red

228

velvet sleeve-

A PirruRESQi-i-:

cori'i,,';,

hii.kk

THEY DISAPPKAR DOWX IHE LoXC, ROAD

THE gaka(;e at gacko

RAGUSA TO GACKO
less coat

trimmed heavily with gold; her open jacket has

great silver knobs, as big as sleigh-bells,

of the front

and

lace ruffles at the wrist

down both

sides

a rich gold chain

is

around her neck and from her cap hang coins and pendant
jewels; her belt buckles are enormous and of beautiful

workmanship; on her
white head-kerchief,
led fringe.

is

fingers are silver rings

draped a

and over a

scarlet bashilik with tassel-

She walks with the easy pace of the mountain-

and her pony follows with slackened rein. They, too,

stop at the well for refreshment and I long for an inter

eer

The young woman does

preter.

acquaintance,

if

friendly smiles

not seem averse to our

mean

anything;

but the

dark-skinned man, be he husband or father, hurries her

away, and in an incredibly short time they disappear down

the long road.

The
is

chaufifeur

is

now

putting

our signal for adjustment of

fairly

whiz across a

fertile,

away

veils

the air

and

pump, which

of dust coats.

We

blossoming valley, and as we

climb the other side get a charming view of Bilek, under

by her fort. A fawn-colored

"hooded crow," with black head and wings, flies fearlessly
by, and from a passing carriage two Turkish women peer
the terraced hillside crowned

at us

behind their

veils.

There are no kilometer posts but sometimes numbers

painted on the rocks, whether distances or military marks

we

fafl

ing
is

to discover.

up and down

The road

the low

forming, and from

it

hills.

is

excellent

At our

and we go

twist-

right a black cloud

sharp lightning at intervals denotes

a storm.
229

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

our direction," placidly answers the Leader,

to our anxious inquiries.
"Will you have the top up?"

"Yes, that

"Oh, not
fresh air

We

is

is

we answer

yet,"

in

"This

our usual chorus.

so delightful."

pass

flocks of sheep

many

and goats and some small

herds of cattle guarded by the brightly gowned Herzegovinian peasants.

"Thirty kilometers more to Gacko," calls

Leader, and a cuckoo utters his plaintive note.
"Isn't that a sign of rain?" asks

"I 'm afraid

it

is

back the

Madame

Content.

or snow," responds the Leader,

for

very near us the snow appears and white fields surround us.

This

is

feet),

and we put up the hood

of rain.

the top of the pass, he informs us,

Troglav (4340

just in time to escape big

drops

Luckily, only the edge of the hea\7 shower reaches

us so that

we enjoy

the splendid

panorama

of the

Monte-

negrin Alps rising on our right, white with the freshly fallen

snow.

Into a defile of curious ridged rock

we descend,

where green hellebore and yellow orchids abound,

through a cultivated valley, watered by a mountain

then

torrent,

where the hawthorn hedges are white with blossoms.

We discern the fort of Cernica on our left and follow
the rippling brook

up into the

recesses of the

mountains again.

It rains when we have gained the crest, but not enough to

prevent our seeing the flat Gacko plain, or polje, across which

we

are soon bowling; a rockless valley, broad

by

walls or hedges.

controlling the flow,

three inches high in

and undivided

Waterways intersect, with locks for

and on

some

this fertile floor the grain is

places, in others

230

men

are harvest-

RAGUSA TO GACKO
ing,

and

in

still

The

others scattering the seed.

vesper spar-

rows follow in great flocks and a brilliant yellow bird, as

large as a robin, but with dark wings, eludes my persistent
glass.

Is

it

the golden oriole?

and passing the branch road

and its government inn.

Over

the

to Avtovac,

231

Musica River,

we reach Gacko

CHAPTER XXII
GACKO TO MOSTAR SOURCE OF THE BUNA

A COLD

rain

is

falling,

the

snow on the neighboring

mountains comes down very near us.

We are glad
of our heaviest wraps and hesitate to remove them even in
the cheerless shelter of the inn, for

two hundred

feet

above the

Gacko

is

three thousand,

sea.

Whoever planned this primitive hostelry had no nose, I

am sure. As soon as we enter the large front room, with a
table

on one

side evidently used for eating,

onions have been cooking for some time

we know

in the

that
stair-

square

case well the scent becomes overpowering, and no wonder,

for the kitchen

outlet, this is the

opens directly beneath!

If

it

has another

one most used, and into each chamber

penetrates the odor with a strength and a persistence worthy

of a better cause.

atmosphere of

The

inn seems to float in a mild, hazy

Of

garlic!

course, the occupants

do not per-

accustomed as they are to its continuance, but fresh

from the delicious ozone of the heights, we nearly suffocate.

ceive

it,

The Leader

dares not sympathize with us, for there

other place to go.

veils;

and

at

We

is

no

stumble up the stairway in our dark

the top, I being

first,

stop in dismay;

for,

stretched entirely across the landing, lies a huge hound.

"She won't

trouble you!" calls out a voice from below;

after lazy hesitation,

along a

little

Madame,

to let us pass.
232

the dog, consents to

and

move

GACKO TO MOSTAR
The rooms marked "Fremden

Zimmer'''' over

are clean, but certainly not luxurious, as the

book plainly

The windows

said.

glass of the poorest,

The

floor

boards are guiltless of paint or

there

inches wide, not too closely set;

German

is

guide-

and few, the

are small

and the woodwork

each door

of the cheapest.
stain,

tiny,

about ten

worn rug

to my relief.
On
by each bed, and those beds are of iron
each is laid a red cotton quilt, neither long enough nor wide

enough

to tuck in,

and the sheets match the

quilt in size,

while the pillows are stuffed with cotton; but there are two

mattresses and the

room

woven wire has not

boasts a stove, but no

fire.

Wondering what we wAl

I

Each

lost its spring.

get for dinner besides onions,

think hopefully of the cracker box and the prune bottle

safely tucked

away

in the automobile.

conducted to a not over-clean table

dently the banquet-hall

( ?)

In due time we are

in the inner

and shortly a maid

room,

evi-

a sailor

in

blouse of fancy red and white stripe, cut very low in the neck,

a dark cloth skirt and an apology for an apron, bursts into

the room.
"

Kuss

die

Hand,

gleich, bitte schon'^ she explodes,

and

departs again.

Evidently custom

is

brisk.

We

wait patiently.

a long time, she reappears wuth two plates of

and potatoes, and two of lettuce.
'^

the

Hamburg

Bitte schon,^^ she apologizes, as she disappears

open door.

to this

Our

After
steak

through

stock of exclamations seem inadequate

demand upon them, and we remain

contemplating the feast before us.

233

gravely

silent,

MOTORING
"I choose the

lettuce, please," I say, after

each one of us

for

fault.

THE BALKANS

IN

is

a slight pause,

determined not to be the

to find

first

In travelling through strange countries this

excellent rule to follow:

we had decided upon

is

an

that in the

beginning, but not having had any occasion for

its

use,

we

had almost forgotten our resolve.

''Perhaps we could have some beer," cheerfully remarks
the Leader, attacking with a good semblance of zest his
overflowing plate.

"You

The

beer

is

brought and

should learn to eat onions,"

is

excellent.

asserts

Madame

Content, "this steak isn't so bad."

At the other

side of the hall

is

the "Casino," at least

what the sign over the door says. The Leader goes
in to see it, and reports two men playing billiards, three
women and two babies listening to a mechanical musical
that

is

instrument.

to

"Probably if you lived in Gacko, that would be

give you an evening's amusement, too," replies

sufficient

Madame

Content, at the report of her liege lord.

As we go

upstairs a voice from the dark depths of the

kitchen shouts:

we

at least

When

'^Kilss die

Hand!

Guten Nachtr'

And

can respond to that "Guten NachtP^

open

a new picture

my

fails to

blinds in the morning

greet me,

The snowy mountains and

bound together by

and Gacko

it is

is

rarely that

no exception.

blue sky and green valley are

the glorious arc of a rainbow.

The buds

are just beginning to swell on the forest trees before

my win-

dow, but

blossom.

in the

Some one

garden opposite the currants are

is

coming across the

234

plain,

is

in
it

man

or

GACKO TO MOSTAR
woman

Evidently a

muffled against the morning's chill?

woman,

approaches town she draws her white

for as she

head-covering closer to shield her face while the long black

As she passes

cloak reveals bright blue Turkish trousers.

I see

an oblong piece of black cloth trimmed with dull

embroidery hanging down her back.

see the parade of the Austrian

sixteen strong,

They

to-day?

on
I

to

is

Has

she

come

Automobile Club, which,

hurrying over the mountains from Mostar

are to stop here for luncheon before going

Will

Ragusa.

be

it

Hamburg

steak and onions,

wonder?
Great

is

the excitement of the populace waiting their

arrival.

The town proper

of a mile

up

the

hill

of

Gacko

lies

perhaps a quarter

behind the hotel, and at

come down even

of the inhabitants have

least one-half

at this early

good vantage points on the post road.

little girls

are a repetition of those at Trebinje, only

ragged and dirty, and

wooden sandals on

less shy.

gathered at the ankles;

but must be an

mountain

a kerchief over the head;

inadequate protection in this

meal, looked forward to with doubt and

apprehension, turns out even worse than

The

coffee

we have

save the mark served

lukewarm; the bread, heavy and sour; the

sible!

The

air.

Our morning
pated.

cotton trousers,

be suitable for the Bosphorus or the

the costume might

frosty

full

a short waist, always of another

material, but equally bright;

Levant,

more

Leather straps hold the

bare feet;

their

hour

The

to secure

is

in to

eggs are

antici-

in tall glasses

butter, impos-

merely warmed through, and the

235

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

spoons far too large to enter the

picks hesitatingly;

used for such

way but
drunk

can
purposes

to follow the

do

it

look at the tooth-

we have

at another village
?

There

custom of the country;

with this implement, the egg

stirred

shells.

is

made

seen them
is

no other

salted

and

palatable and

It is

amusing

when we come

to hear the light tone

together after the morning meal.

erence

is

made

verdict

is

rendered for an early

"I would

adopted by the party

to personal experiences, but a

No

ref-

unanimous

start.

like, if possible, to get

by the narrowest part of

the road before meeting the Austrian cars," explains the

Leader; and we accept

smiles lurk in our
careful

and run

this excuse

Yankee

without question, though

sleeves.

"We

have to be

will

slowly, as they will not be expecting to

meet a motor, and the turns are sharp."

Just then a man on a white horse gallops around the
corner shouting violently, and scarcely has he drawn up by
the roadside,

when a gasoKne runabout appears

tance and dashes into the village.

It

in the dis-

seems that men are

on the heights for miles along the way who either

halloo or wave a blue flag, thus signalling the coming of an
stationed

automobile, and the news so carried

lant

horseman

to the town.

We

is

repeated by the gal-

do not wait

to

exchange

courtesies, but take advantage of the distracted attention of

the populace to get away.

Many women

are squatting

on

boulders without the town, their faces covered to the eyes.

Oxen and donkeys are relegated to the fields. We have a

The men salute us politely as we wind through
clear road.
236

GACKO TO MOSTAR
a narrow pass, and one drops his blue flag in amazement at
seeing us approach from the wrong direction.
Passing a wretched

Mohammedan

enclosed and with the headstones at

the

all

Zalomska and from an adjoining

pany

of soldiers rush

down

not even
we cross
angles,

cemetery

hilltop

to look at us.

a whole com-

It is after

we have

gone through the narrowest part of the defile, fully half an

hour after leaving Gacko, and just beyond Fojnica that we

meet the second car of the Austrian Automobile Club, a

open motor from whose depths a begoggled enthusiast

waves his hat in exuberance of friendly greeting. Back and
large

forth across the

Zalomska the

excellent road zig-zags in

and out between high limestone hills, occasionally relieved

by groves of pollarded oaks on curious rock strata. The
green tufts of the hellebore denote the
the region, yet from the

cliffs

sterile

character of

four streams pour their waters

Here we meet four more cars

into the Zalomska's flood.

in

quick succession.
'Tt

is

a comfort to see the kilometer posts again," remarks

the Gentle

road."

Lady; "it seems so much more like the right

huge snow mountain appears just before we

emerge from the gorge into a plain, from which the towers
of Nevesinje rise on the hillside.

"That snow mountain

many

is

Velez," says the Leader.

have passed now?" as another automobile

"That

is

the seventh,"

we encounter

"We

and

in the

rolls

"How
by

us.

town of Nevesinje

the eighth.

have only

five

hundred

to-day," the Leader said,

feet altogether to

when we
237

left

ascend

Gacko, but no sign

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

any climbing have I perceived until we reach Nevesinje

and begin the long loop leading over the Grabok Saddle.

of

From

the top (3640 feet)

we

get a magnificent view over

the plain, the snow-topped mountains

inje

of

with

tile

its

steep streets,

or shining

tin, its

its

and the town of Nevesits

conspicuous barracks,

roofs

minaret, and white spire holding

Holy Cross. Here we pass six cars in a line, one of

them of American make. The " Saddle " is charming,
winding through a world of birches under mossy rocks and
coasting down a shady glen, but no water drips from the
aloft the

gray boulders into the gravelly bed.

Many birds hover over our heads and

tops as

we climb again and from

sing from the tree-

summit

the

of another

shadow

height discover the Narenta valley lying half in

thirty-five

hundred

feet

below us

Soon

after a

shimmering

lake sparkles in the far distance; and at the edge of a

widening view the city of Mostar appears. The flat -topped

hills of Hum surround us and at the right towers the snowy
Podvelez.

The

last car, the

seventeenth,

we meet

before

we come

where the view into the valley is

stupendous! In loops and twists the road coils down the
mountain side the castle of St jepangrad on its lofty perch,

to a point in the road

six

hundred

feet

above the plain,

is

yet

gradually the conformation of the lower

proper proportions and

"

torn bare peak

in leaf

"

now

and poppies

that
rises

above

castle

but
its

on the

Vines are already

us-

and the

fragrant in this fertile Narenta valley.

assumes

hills

same ruined

in blossom,

238

far below;

air

"That

is

is

warm and
a

fifteenth

SOURCE OF IHE liUXA

thp:

bridge \r .nk^star

GACKO TO MOSTAR
century castle," remarks the Leader, turning around in his

same Duke Stjepan, who lived

His last exploit was to run
at Castelnuovo, you remember.
away with his son's wife, but he was caught and kept in
"and belonged

seat,

to that

prison here until he died."

We

stop outside the village of Blagaj,

Blackeye with the

Our

the Buna.

the people

car

is

come from

are in sight.

a hard G,

like

to visit the source of

immediately surrounded, but where

is

a mystery, as only a few low houses

The way

is

not difficult to find, but a lad in

picturesque rags takes possession of us,

up the

pronounced

and

in the

noon-

path bordered by hedges of pomegranate, above a rushing river, past a mill and through the
we follow our small guide to
ruins of a painted mosque,

day

heat,

little

a huge precipice overhanging the chapel of a Turkish saint.

No water is to be seen At a rough, locked gate in the high
!

wall the boy pounds and waits and pounds again.

the custode

is

at his prayers or very deaf, or

Either

away from home.

With an encouraging look the boy darts away, motioning

us to stay where

we

are;

we

wait, nothing loath, in that cool

shady spot after our hot walk.

"Is it possible that only this morning I wished for my
fur coat ?" asks the Gentle Lady, with incredulous emphasis.

"I don't

believe

you

will

want

it

again during our tour

this year," comforts her liege lord.

And

just then

down

the path our pilot appears beckon-

ing vigorously for us to join

dated

mill.

way between

Over

him and pointing

into a dilapi-

the rickety floor the Leader leads the

the belts of rolling

239

wooden wheels, up a ladder

MOTORING
to a

window

THE BALKANS

IN

three feet high, and scrambles through, turning

At the

to help us follow him.

foot of the ladder the Gentle

balks, but the Enthusiast gathering

Lady

all

her courage

and comes out on a terraced garden facing

a sheer white cliff. Pigeons wheel in countless numbers
struggles through

and swallows' nests by hundreds cling to the crag. From

underneath the limestone wall, pours forth a seething flood,
spreading into a charming clear blue pool before leaping
over the shelving rocks in a succession of foaming rapids.
It is the source of the

This

Buna.

river

is

said to be a con-

tinuation of the Zalomska, which disappears the other side

of the

"Grabok Saddle" some

The change
complete that

twelve miles away.

into the blackness of the mill again

at first I

is

so

can see nothing; but the turbaned

miller at our look of interest

lifts

a rude wooden stake in the

he dips the flat

and the whirling millstones stop;
paddle in the rough hopper and shows us the corn, then goes
floor

open bin where the meal lies yellow and fine. In

the next hopper is whole wheat, and below, the flour ground
to the

all is,

the

rushing water seen between the wide cracks in the

floor,

finer

than the corn-meal.

How

picturesque

it

the three whirling millstones, the clumsy machinery, the

age-darkened roof outlined with powdery streaks, and the

bent-over old

Our
return.

car

flowers!
tion

is still

How

stones of a

man

quietly awaiting our departure.

the centre of an admiring throng

incongruous

Mohammedan

it

appears beside the crooked

cemetery, a mass of yellow wild

One Herzegovinian

on the

when we

peasant has a curious decora-

side of his jacket, consisting of four silver hearts,

240

GACKO TO MOSTAR
each two inches across, connected by chains and a

Now, one
two

silver heart

silver hearts

village

Adonis?

inability to

speak

might well be understood,

could be explained but

Never have

I regretted

and even
Is he the

four!

more keenly

my

their tongue.

Across the smiling valley on a

avenues of young mulberries;

fine level road,

past

fields

through
where Turkish

women, tending sheep and goats, at our approach

skirts over their heads and hold them tightly;
barracks flanked by masses of blue
hillside forts

fringe.

we speed

iris;

fling their

past big

under the many

merrily from Blagaj into Mostar.

241

CHAPTER

XXIII

MOSTAR

A T Mostar we are surprised to find a comfortable

on the banks of the Narenta River whose eastern

hotel

windows

modern

face a

shady park and

*'

the open terrace.

think

all

I shall

our meals are served on

stay here at least a week/'

announces the Gentle Lady, after luncheon,

as, sitting

on her

tiny balcony above the fair green garden, she watches the

passers-by.

Eight
the

little girls

paulownia

are playing "ring-round-a-rosy" under

trees.

They

sing with the

same

perfect

rhythm, but utter disregard of tune, so characteristic of

Have

dren the world over.

a familiar sound?

Or

is

it

chil-

the Slavonic syllables really

only that the ceremony, the

circling around, the stopping to choose, the clapping of

hands, bring back so vividly our

own

childish vernacular

we unconsciously supply the words ?

The lemonade vender, with gorgeous

that

shining brasses,

no sooner appears than small be-fezzed boys swarm about

him. It must be recess at the Turkish school-house, for a
flock of trousered mites
like

run gayly to the fountain.

a parterre of tulips in their brilliant colors.

enveloped in a superb dark blue

silk

They

are

A woman

and gold-threaded

ambles by, her parasol matching her cloak but her

A
red and black tasselled boots striking a dissonant note.

jerediza

white-hooded being approaches and turns toward the bridge,

242

MOSTAR
her hands discreetly folded
less

only a narrow

muslin enables her to see her way.

slit

in the spot-

A Servian peasant in

coarse white linen knickers and tucked-up skirt, a bag over

her shoulder, stalks by with a free and splendid swing, her

blowing back from her braided

veil

more

toiling she is
in the

hair.

to be envied than her

With

all

Turkish

her

sister

harem.

The

bridal wreath hangs in graceful sprays from huge

spirea bushes

the blue paulownia bells

lie

withering on the

ground; the splashing fountains lend a breath of coolness

and the great bare mountains of Hum loom before

seamed with paths and crowned by forts.

to the air;
us,

''Do see that curiously dressed

woman coming down

the

by the mosque. What is that pointed thing she has

on her head?" cries the Gentle Lady, breaking the long
street

silence.

"That

is

a costume peculiar to Mostar," answers a

voice in English

we discover

from below, and looking down

the English acquaintances

in surprise

whom we had

left in

Ragusa.
''Why,

What

time.

thought you were to be in Sarajevo by this

luck to find you here!"

"Yes, we did intend to go on before now, but we have

found Mostar so delightful that we cannot bear to leave."
"I can well understand that," assents the Gentle Lady.

"Now you

must show us

"First, there

"No,
there

is

I don't

is

all

the sights."

the bridge, of course you

know one

thing about

to see."
243

know

"

Mostar, or what

MOTORING
much

''So
all

THE BALKANS

IN

the better,"

the answer, "you

is

'11

enjoy

it

the more."

"Are

And

n't the lights

just then

wonderful on those bare mountains?"

from a nearby minaret sounds the

To

prayer in minor, long-drawn cadence.

call

to

the four points

compass the muezzin sends forth his command and

from the depths of the bazaar and narrow, high-walled

of the

streets gather the

Moslem

faithful.

"Don't you want to go out for a walk? It is cooler

now," and the party start out to see the little town.

"Mostar
some books
"It

siast.

is

is

have been reading recently," says the Enthucertainly the largest city

that the size

closely built, for

Just then

it

makes

attractive.

it

arch,

to shore

we come out on

which seems

Rialto span
to

me,

towers;

but above

it

I cannot describe that exquis-

to spring like a living thing

seventy- four."

I hear,

"It

The

figures

from shore

is

feet,

sixty feet

while the

mean nothing

rich,

all else

the wonderful perfection of the whole,

An

"Kudret Kemeri" that

early

much ground."

has a span of one hundred

these enrapture me.

must be very

creamy color and its ancient guarding

moss-grown parapet and moving, varied throng;

its

its

is

in since

the bridge and stop uncon-

above the foaming water.

from the water;

It

does not seem to cover

sciously to enjoy the picture.

ite

we have been

with the possible exception of Spalato.

leaving Trieste,

Not

the capital of the Herzegovina in

called

archaic inscription on
is,

"The Arch

make an inward vow, "Here

morning and here

is

it

reads:

Almighty God."
where I will come in
of

can stay through long delightful

244

MOSTAR
For a stone bench extends the whole length of the
parapet, and while I rest the people in their varied daily

hours.

tasks will pass in long procession to

Mounting the

down

and

fro."

at the green

water rushing between

its

rocky shores,

then raise our eyes to the city on either side.

twelve, thirteen," a voice beside

"
question.
I

we look

incline to the centre of the bridge

Yes, we can

me

"Eleven,

counts, and I turn to

see thirteen minarets

from here,

have counted them."

How

symbolical they are,

towers pointing skyward

"What wonderful
just

above the

balconied

slender,

old trees

river!

allowed to see them a

those

by that green-domed mosque

wonder whether we would be

little

nearer."

"They may be in a private garden," suggests the Cautious

One. But we hurry across the bridge and dive down into
the narrow street of the bazaar in eager search of a

them.

Before a sunlit archway

one of the squatting

we

linger

way to
a moment and

laying aside his long pipe,

figures,

and without a word leads the way down the stone-paved

path and within the stuccoed wall. Behold, a fountain of
running water under a protecting roof, great spreading
rises

green branches, and a broad, covered portico of a mosque.

Here, we being

he

halts,

women and

removes

tion in the few

his shoes

and

therefore forbidden entrance,

words of German

"The mosque

of

Mahomet

there

Pasa, the

four hundred years old, and that

Mahommed,

formula of explanawhich he knows

recites his

is

first

one

in

Mostar,

the Mecca the name

where the preacher stands, and

245

this

MOTORING

IN

THE BALKANS

leads to the minaret," pointing to a tiny, winding stair.

am

the muezzin," he proudly adds.

dim

light,

The

''I

rich rugs, the

a cross-legged figure conning the Koran by a low

window, the age-mellowed walls and Moorish

a most effective picture.

Turning away we

lattices

make

linger in the charming, restful portico,

Between the waving branches

the Narenta girt round with lovely

enjoying the peaceful scene.

we

of the great trees

see

Across the high arch of the old stone bridge

mountains.

moves a procession of gayly dressed figures, so quaint, so

mystical! Are we dreaming, or is this an Arabian Night's

come

tale

true ?

As we wander homeward a
on the

peculiarly lovely bird -song

it is

our

nightingale," our English companions proudly answer

my

rises

silent air.

unspoken question.

look

"They

up

startled.

"Yes,

sing here constantly, every-

where, even in the hedges along the railroad track."

The
air

is

calendar declares

like July;

brilliant

blue.

it

to

be the ninth of May, but the

one looks in vain for any tiny cloud in the

Tablelands of mountains cut sharply into

deep clefts and projecting angles casting

shadows, pink and mauve and green. An exquisite weeping hemlock rises above my window and seems as foil to the

the sky,

'^

their

Hetres-a- papier^

A woman

(beeches) in the park below.

Turkish trousers passes, leading a tiny child by the hand, and balancing on her head a
board on which rest two round loaves of unbaked bread.
Is

wearing the

full

she going to the public oven?

The combination

Turkish trousers, a gingham apron, and exposed head

246

of
is

MOSTAR
amusingly incongruous, but even the Catholic

mannish garments.
rich and full and long.

these
silk,

On

women wear

Sundays they are of black

It is

comical to see the stately

them up from

highway as
But the fashionable out-of-door costume for

matrons endeavor to
they walk.

women

lift

the dusty

Mostar has been so graphically described

by Major Henderson in his delightful book
on the Balkans that I cannot do better than transcribe his
Turkish

words

in

"Figure to yourself a long, very thick, dark blue great-

worn by Mr. Thomas Atkins,

furnished with an enormous collar stand-

coat, very similar to that

except that
ing

it

is

up nearly a

foot

whom

over the wearer,

This garment
envelops, head and all

in height.
it

is

thrown

the

hook

fastened, not over the throat, but just below the nose, leav-

ing the high

stiff

collar to project

forwards, above and

beyond the forehead, a huge beak. The chink left open

below this in the shadow of the projecting beak is fitted in
with a muslin mask that covers the eyes of the wearer.

The

hooked closely all the way down, with the sleeves

pinned back and flapping loosely, rather like embryo wings.
Huge black or bright yellow clumsy, untanned boots comcloak

is

plete the costume."

In yellow trousers with red polka dots and short red

blouse, her black round cap clutched in her hand, one lively
little girl stole

a ride on the bottom step of the hotel omnibus

went slowly around to the front door.

true feminine fashion she stepped off backwards

that morning, as

Here

and

in

it

rolled in the dust,

showing her bare

247

feet in

wooden

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

She must have had something to eat in her hand,

as she rose and shook her cotton clothes, two geese with

sabots.
for,

She "shooed"

outstretched necks barred her way.

in vain,

and

finally

had

them

at

some passing pedes-

to slip behind

trians to get by.

merciful

Mussulman has stopped

his horses with their

load of logs and brings them, one by one, fresh water from

The sweetmeat

the fountain.

seller

comes

into the park,

swarm

slowly trundling his attractive cart, and like a

terflies

of but-

the kerchiefed children surround him, two having

Should one of the number be so

babies in their arms.

for-

tunate as to have the necessary penny, the rest look on with

devouring eyes while she slowly consumes the cold

(ice

cream).

From the tourist's

in

fiorini

standpoint there are not

Mostar but there are

;

the costumes are even

which
Dalmatia,

is

many

pictures, living ones at

more varied and

saying much.

all

"sights"

times,

attractive than in

The

Oriental char-

acter of the buildings, too, forms a fitting background

the

bazaar,

through high-walled

and

and the East.

the brilliant white light reminds one of Cairo

In

and

streets,

beside

the

mosque, on the curving bridge, men, women, and children

gather in gaudy groups daily but on Sunday the service in
;

the Franciscan church

is

a sight long to be remembered.

The

soldiers in their khaki

mass

of color

less jackets

gaiters

women

and red

fezes forming

one

solid

the peasants in their gay-embroidered sleeve-

over clean white

and opanka and

'

shirts, full

scarlet

baggy rousers, white

fezes;

the white-gowned

with veils over their coin- bedecked head-dresses;

248

pi

N
o

n
>
r
V"'

5>

7i

<f^,

AI'TER SKRVK'E AF IHK FRAXCISCAX CHURCH,

THE

y\V.S

ARE EQUALLY PJCTURESQUE

MOSIAR

MOSTAR
bowing, or kneeling in unison, produce an

all rising,

as striking as

it is

effect

picturesque.

charming when the congregation

pours out into the sunlight and under the shady trees of the

Nor

the scene less

is

clean white street, the groups mingle in friendly intercourse.

They have no horror

of the camera, either,

these pleasant

people; but the Turks, even the men, shake their heads in
silent

negation

"What a

when

the subject

is

broached.

hideous custom that

brick red with henna,"

comments

of staining the hair

is

the Gentle Lady, as a

trousered girl so decorated passes us.

that
is

medal hanging down

an amulet to keep

her

name
believe

down

off the evil eye, a

you suppose

a label, on her cap,

mere ornament, or

in case she should get lost ?"

But our attention

do

in front, like

"Do

it is

that street

is

diverted by the sound of music.

'gusla,^^^ I excitedly

exclaim, "can't

"I

we go

and see?"

Looking on from a respectful distance we watch the old

musician twanging on the national banjo and the dancing
circle in the street;

but, alas!

this

group of Servians are

so well-to-do that they have discarded their national cos-

tumes and donned the prosaic clothes

"Yes,

it is

of civilization.

a wedding," answers a pleasant young Herze-

govinian, stopping to look at the pretty scene,

the bride."

She wears no

the others, but the

groom

veil
is

"and that

is

nor different costume from

distinguished

by a broad blue

and white sash worn over his shoulder.

"What does that

on that woman?" I

queer white cap, like a chef's,

mean

ask without making any attempt to

249

MOTORING
moderate

my

places that

it

we have been

voice, for

so long in far-away

me that any one can underwoman gives me so keen a glance that I

never occurs to

But the

stand.

THE BALKANS

IN

unconsciously apologize.
*'It is

the cap of the Jewess, I think," replies

my com-

panion after a moment. ''Sometimes they wear a sort of

queer decorated round rim which may be pasteboard,
although

On

it

has

all

the appearance of a tin pan."

Saturday evening the military band played in the

park from seven-thirty until midnight, and all the fashion

of the city in latest Viennese toilets gathered about the many
tables bright with pretty lanterns.

was

like

looking

down on a

My

it

stage scene, the speckless uni-

forms of the military adding not a

of the occasion."

From our balcony

little

to the ''brilliancy

last recollections that night

were of

gay laughter and the pleasant hum of many voices between

the strains of waltz music from the regimental band.

250

CHAPTER XXIV
MOSTAR TO SARAJEVO

Alt/HEN we

induce

finally

the road again,"

the clearest of skies.

Madame

it is still

hot and the sun blazes from

latticed

window

quarter half opens and, looking up,

long-lashed eyes above a gauzy

Content "to take to

veil.

in

the Turkish

we catch a glimpse of
In the Moslem ceme-

tery high yellow wild flowers conceal the stones;

and

road hang locust blossoms thick with bees;

grain fields on either side

Anne's lace."

bloom

The hedges

scarlet poppies

on the

and

are pink with roses as

the wide valley, facing the Prenj Alp, with

over our
in

the

"

Queen
we cross

snowy Velez

east.

"Snowy, did you say?" questions the Gentle Lady.

"It seems incredible." And she pushes back her veil to
get a breath of air.

caravan of horses laden

with

from the mountains led by women.

industrious

peasant

woman

firewood descends

Later we meet an

twirling a carved

spindle of

wool as she walks rapidly along, driving her pack-mule.

European mountain ash are in blossom and flocks of
birds rise overhead,
in

yellow,

black, white,

and brown,

tantalizing variety.

Just without the gorge lies a group of Bogomile stones

in a field

from the road, and we go

They are most extraordinary in

about three hundred

over to look at them.

feet

251

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

huge bulk and barbaric markings.

the car we beg the Leader to enhghten

As we

their

is

even,

new

to

return to

"The name,

us.

me," remarks the Enthusiast

in

a grieved

tone.

This

is

rehgious

what he says

in substance

sect

southern

the

among

thirteenth century, rebelled

Church and founded

this

The Bogomiles

Slavs,

the

against

in

who,

Roman

are a
the

Catholic

kind of Protestantism.

At

first

they were protected both in Servia and Bosnia, and the faith

made

rapid strides, even reaching to Cattaro, Spalato, and

Zara.

Strenuous persecution began and continued for cen-

turies

but they have never been entirely extirpated and even

as late as 1876

refuge in

recorded that over 2000 Bogomiles took

it is

Ragusa from

Little is really

Herzegovina.

ions, as their annals

their faith

is

the one district of

known

Popovo

in the

of their habits or opin-

have been written by their enemies, and

held in secret to this day.

In various parts of

the country their strangely shaped gravestones have been

found, some with

rude

carvings,

and

in the

museum

at

Sarajevo are reproductions of the most important examples.

One

of these

and a

is

a block between nine and ten

half feet broad,

sculptured sides.

It is

and

five feet high,

feet long, four

with elaborately

supposed to have belonged to a Djett

or Bogomile bishop.

About

sixteen

kilometers from

Mostar we enter the

gorge of the Narenta, the great precipices of the Velez

(6450 feet) on our

right.

The

flowering may, the

fig,

the

wild pomegranate, even the faithful giant spurge struggle in

vain to cover these rocky slopes.

252

Beside us, a foaming

>

AN IXTKRESTIXG CROUP

IX

THE XAREXTA \ALLEV

HERZEOOVIXIAX Cl'IEUREX XEAR JAULAXICA

MOSTAR TO SARAJEVO
green torrent rushes

down a

succession of low terraces into

the Narenta.

"That must be
siast,

"now we

the Schwarzequelle," cries the Enthu-

are in the 'Great Defile.'"

The

strata of

accentu-

tilted swirls, their lines

rocks opposite are lying in

ated by low trees and bushes

on our right tower castellated

crags and through the gorge of the Drezanjka River

Our own

succession of snow-touched peaks.

we

see a

grows

valley

more contracted and

traces of avalanches occur at intervals

close to the road.

We

memorial

cross,

wrung from

notice a large apiary, a wayside

a cluster of thatched huts, with vineyards

Often a heavy wall

the rocky slope.

formation curves over the road, looking as

the sky
in

at
is

a touch,

but

is

it

built

A strange conglomerate

against the encroachments of snow.

crumble

is

if

it

as hard as iron.

would

Against

Madonna and

seen a perfect outline of the

Child

heavy drapery done by Nature's hand.

Going through a short tunnel, we perceive an extensive

valley on our right, near Grabovica, where the fantastic
dolomite formation gives the rocks
disguises.

hue

How

blue the sky

manner

of strange

beside their rich

brown

Passing another series of cascades, we cross the river

and exchange

sides with the railroad.

valley of Glogosnica, with

tilted

is

all

its

strata, is the wildest

fantastic

we have

On

our right the

peaks and crags and

yet seen.

the Komadinaquella gushes from beneath the

Beside us

mountain

wall and flows under the road, falling into the Narenta

some

seventy feet below.

Now

the magnificent snow-fields of the Prenj

253

Alp ap-

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

pear, above verdant, overlapping mountains.

The

ful scene!

greens of the forest and of the

It is

a beauti-

new

gr^'i are

by the blue lights upon the snow of the Prenj.

Before us the river winds in serpentine bends. Under archintensified

ing walnuts our route runs by scattered houses and at last

a shady garden, into which we turn.

Jablanica, and

we have our luncheon.

here

"It
but

It is

really cooler in the house,"

is

we

prefer

"God's out-of-doors."

remarks the Leader,

When

the Judas tree

pink with bloom; when the air is filled with fluttering

chestnut blossoms; when the mountain ash and blue paulis

ownia are gay with flowers; when columbines and roses

combine to feast the eye; when mocking birds and blackbirds are whistling their delight

We

desire to calmly stay indoors?

the chickens,

we even

who could

feed the dog,

feed the sparrows,

only reason the crows do not

for a

come down

and

moment
we

feed

think the

to our jesta

is

that

they are not hungry.

Our

black coffee

brought over from the cafe by an

is

imposing, white-turbaned Turk, who, in his brilliant cos-

tume, carefully balancing the three tiny long- handled brass

pots,

approaches slowly down the avenue, making a picture

which

prejudices, this coffee

in

Out

long to reproduce.

cups that carry

such dishes for

"How

is

made without

me back

my

to

dolls filled

different the

of deference to foreign

sugar,

and served

my childhood days when

my heart with joy

Herzegovina

just

is

from Dalmatia or

Montenegro," muses the Gentle Lady. "One would suppose that mountains and rocky precipices would have a
254

MOSTAR TO SARAJEVO
close resemblance to

each other, but

those were so gray,

all

so desolate, like the burned-out craters of the

here the vegetation in the valleys extends far

and the colors

snow, are a

soft,

"I suppose
''It

siast,

places,

up

the hillsides

not white with

warm brown."

this is

a sandstone," continued the Enthu-

almost hke the Grand Cafion formation in

is

it?"

is n't

we have

''This afternoon

"3172

when

of the highest peaks,

moon; while

the Ivan Pass," said the Leader,

feet."

"How

high are we here?"

"Only 665
"Well, we

feet."
will

and the wind

what

us hope

grades are

the

have some climbing to do

certainly

there

of

is

not

it

behind us.

is

Let

and the roads are

steep

smooth."

"We ought to have some fine scenery," replies the Leader,

quite ignoring such prosaic considerations,
in the

highest of spirits.

and we

now foaming

road above the

grateful

shade of

the

green

bend

in the river

"Prozor"

"That

torrent,

clinging to the

with more woody

hillside,

mountains before and waterfalls

ing the air with their

with
on an excel-

Crossing the Narenta,

splendid views of the Prenj Alp behind us,

lent

start off

at frequent intervals, cool-

we come,
spray,

at length, to

a sharp

and a crossroad with a sign-post marked

in Latin characters.
is

the direct road to Jajce,

points the Leader.

from Sarajevo.

"We

up

could take

the

Rama

valley,"

by returning here
They say the scenery is very fine. But
25s

it

MOTORING
there

another shorter

is

THE BALKANS

IN

way by Kseljak and Travnik,

joining

road at Vakuf."

this

We

cross the river

and follow

it,

going almost due east,

snowy range of Bjelasnica on our left, past Ostrovac,

and enter an open valley with cultivated slopes. Below us
past the

a cluster of stone-roofed huts, with a minaret in a

level spot

close to the river, denotes Sisicic.

"I 'm sure we could

n't

wish for a better road, so far,"

remarks the Gentle Lady. "It is neither dusty nor muddy,

and we have it pretty nearly to ourselves."

On

again by the river's brink through a gorge where

we

catch glimpses of snow-crowned Visocica Planina above the

nearer

we come

hills,

to a bridge of graceful arches with

red-roofed, latticed houses in high- walled gardens

This

other side.

the Herzegovina

governor, and

is

through the

Konjica, formerly a border town between

and Bosnia,

now

rounding peaks.

on the

a Turkish

later the seat of

the centre for excursions to the sur-

We

thronged

glide

over the ancient bridge and

bazaar

and, leaving the Narenta

As we

River, turn into the Trescanica valley.

the railroad, I notice that the

"Wamung"

Croatian, Hungarian and, of course, the

is

pass under
in

official

Turkish,
language,

German.

The Trescanica
rent soon
;

the road
it

is

we

is

cross

a beautiful tumbling mountain torand begin to climb the Ivan Pass. Here

is

it,

bit stony

and the grades are a

trifle

steep, but

the following south wind which makes our faithful

motor car

rebel.

shepherd lad

upon

As we stop

at a convenient

the green hillside

256

is

cascade, a

playing on

his lute;

MOSTAR TO SARAJEVO
the strain

is

mountain

glen.

exquisitely melodious,

An

smile, has

come up

she walks.

We

is

very

to the car, twirling rapidly her spindle as

call,

by gestures our delight

and she

I ask her

appreciation.

in the silent

toothless, but with friendly

woman,

indicate

musical shepherd

she

old

and re-echoes

much amused,

the

manifestly pleased at our

is

whether

in

may take

her picture and

but poses with willing grace,

while her daughter looks on in satisfaction.

"I

am

so glad that

we have

to stop occasionally," cries

"It brings us so near the people of the

the Enthusiast.

country, and they are such a kindly sort."

As we go

on, ascending in two loops,

again at the Prenj Alp, and see just above

circle

of the rising

moon.

The

it

we look back
the white half

shades us for a

hillside

short way, while the river falls in a succession of foaming

As we stop by a brook to fill our pail,

need, we see a tree on fire! Has it been struck

rapids far below.

in case of

by lightning or

"Oh, look!"

cries the

Gentle Lady.

Beyond the danc-

ing river, the white houses of Brdjani rise in a gentle incline

meet young apple orchards, pink with blossoms. Above,

the hills are clothed with verdure to the snow line, whence in
to

wonderful

majesty

Beyond Zukici the

room

of
cliffs

outline,

extends

the

for the railroad, the road,

Alp!

Prenj

approach so near that there

is

just

and a splendid waterfall as

makes a leap into the glen below. Gnarled

white birch and beech trees flourish in the pretty,

the Trescanica

chestnuts,

high-lying valley.

Passing a tumble-down

the stream and railroad.

It is

257

Bradina.

mill,

we

cross

MOTORING
The

cherry-trees are in

never saw

They

THE BALKANS
such enormous ones
blossom,

IN

are like forest trees and apparently

grow

wild, as they are scattered on the slopes in the midst of oaks

and

As we

alders.

climb, the

full

length of the tremendous

The

Prenj Alp closes the valley behind us.

and the wooded

ing lights,

hills

rippling stream

wonder

are forgotten in

at the

blue, pink, and mauve, over the snowy

that great jagged mass.

At the top of the Ivan Pass,

we

as the sign-post says,

3172

feet,

chang-

fields of

or "961

M,"

cross the frontier, leaving the

Herzegovina with her magnificent mountain scenery, and

enter Bosnia.

"This

is

the watershed between the Adriatic

"The Black Sea" sounds

Black Sea," says the Leader.

How

Asiatic, indeed.

and the

deliciously cool the air

is

as

we

slide

down through green and shady forests, winding in and out

above a green valley! What though the road be narrow and
have we not ample compensation ?
covered with stone,

A new

snow mountain appears.

I think," says the Leader, but

my

"It

is

attention

a flock of long-wooled sheep branded

Igman
is

Planina,

distracted

by

in red, that will not

leave the road.

"You must look at that big

woods," cries Madame Content.
"That

is

a giant," agrees the Leader.

two and one-half

We

whirl

cherry-tree, there in the

feet

"It must be

through."

through

Rastelica,

whose wooden houses

resemble Alpine chalets, and a few minutes after get another

superb view.
258

"It

MOSTAR TO SARAJEVO
we are coming nearer," says the
Igman again,

is

With what grandeur

Leader.

above the

on

the

snowy summits

Passing the sawmills of Tarcin

fruitful fields!

River, and going cautiously over the

Lepenica

Vilovac Saddle, for the road

where a gypsy camp, with

of

hfts its

it

is
its

rough,

we come

tents, bonfires,

to Pazaric,

and swarm

dusky children, makes a pleasing picture.

Barren heights and stony downs are behind us now,

Bosnia
Europe.

and

is

for

one of the most heavily timbered countries in

As

forests

far as

mount

we can

see in every direction green fields

snow

the hills to the

line;

we

are enter-

ing the Bosna valley and soon cross and recross one of
tributaries, the Zujevina.

its

Past the big saw mills of Hadzici,

past the inn of Elrizanje, where the road leads off to Jajce,

we speed on our way.

There seem
villages,

to

be two distinct types of houses in

all

these

one low and square, with latticed windows and

overhanging eaves, which we soon learn belongs to the

Turk; and one with a very steep pointed gable, as if it

which belongs
After crossing the Bosna, we get a charm-

could not sufficiently emphasize

to the Christian.

its

difference,

ing view of Sarajevo, seven miles away, but turn aside to

the pretty park of Ilidze,

group of summer
ful

hotels,

on the Zeljeznica, where there is a

an open-air restaurant, and delight-

hot sulphur baths.

How heavenly it

seems to find a

fine hotel

rush and roar, the dust and heat of the

away from

the

This sulphur
spring which here bubbles up from the earth at a temperature of 136 degrees Fahrenheit was well known even in
259

city!

MOTORING
Roman

THE BALKANS

IN

Blossoming trees shed their sweet perfume,

the moon casts wavering shadows on our vine-hung balcony,
times.

and nightingales
I stay,"

The

quoth

fill

the

air

still

with music.

''Here, too,

Content, and no one says her nay.

my Lady

next morning, after a leisurely breakfast,

we motor

to Sarajevo for a

day of sight-seeing. It seems strange that

the motor we are too warm.
Four rows of chestnut-

even in

avenue the whole distance, but the

trees extend along the

road

very dusty from

is

Sarajevo at

first

sight

much

use,

and none too smooth.

disappointingly modern.

is

During

the last thirty years under Austrian administration

much

has been done to sweep away the old order of things, to

replace the Asiatic

by the European, and the attempt has

been lamentably successful.

"But

The

the

museum,"

Gentle

I cry, ''that

Lady and

I wait

should be interesting."

near the post

office in

a strip

Leader seeks the custodian,

takes some time, but he is finally

of shady sidewalk, while the

for the place is closed.

successful

door.

It

and we mount three

Rarely has a

flights of stairs to

museum appeared

to

me

a hospitable
so enticing.

Cool and clean and quiet, the change from the sizzling
streets is in itself

of peasants

treat.

The

small rooms contain figures

lying, sitting, or standing,

and are furnished

with ancient ceilings, woodwork, and hangings.

Each form

being carefully labelled, well made, and attired in the

choicest embroideries
fully

life-like,

and

stufs, the

entertaining,

and

whole forms a wonder-

instructive

collection

of

Bosnian and Herzegovinian costumes and customs. Native

jewelry, old belts and waistcoats; embroideries, harnesses,
260

AX UNEXPECTED MEEIIXG: YOUNG TURKISH GIRLS

(SARAJEVO)

MOSTAR TO SARAJEVO
and carved spindles; repousse silver-handled blunderbusses,
swords, and knives; wooden cups, scythe-handles, and whetting cases, rich in native carving; various household utensils

and even model

and modern

There

is

villages ; everything illustrating the ancient

life

of the people

is

gathered together here.

also a prehistoric collection of

tombs with bronze

ornaments, in situ; papier mache replicas of famous Bogomile stones

birds beautifully arranged for reference

rooms mounted and

from which

it

mush-

and a botanical department

to tear oneself.
Here we stay

labelled;

is difficult

hunger drives us to the hotel ^ov luncheon, and afterward we rest for an hour in the very hottest part of the day.
until

Every one assures us that

this heat is exceptional at this

time of the year.

Fortunately

we

consult no thermometer, but

nearly loo degrees Fahrenheit in the shade.

bit

it

must be

The sun

feels

scorching and I notice that most of the natives take

pains to walk in the thin strip of shade on the street, so I

follow their example when, led by a guide,

we

start out to

see the sights.

"There

are over two hundred

mosques in Sarajevo, but

by a regulation recently passed no Christian is allowed in
any of them," so we content ourselves with the outside,
glancing at the shady courtyards with the inevitable fountain

and the groups

Our

of picturesque

men.

guide takes us, however, to see an ancient Servian

or Greek church, shut

away from

the business street within a

shady court, where beneath a loggia there are arrangements

It looks odd to see the name of
for out-of-door services.
261

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

Christ outlined in colored lights

dark

the church, with

interior of

many

pillars

upon the
its

The

wall.

small
its

gilded iconostas,

and few windows reminds us

forcibly

of

Russia.

We

new town

from the upper windows

of which one gets a good view of the city.
But to the
the

visit

hall,

Occidental visitor the real interest of Sarajevo

bazaar and the endlessly queer

chant
as I

is

am

street scenes.

is

in the

One mer-

from a large round tray, but fond

these look too young and hard to taste.

selling cherries

of fruit,

group of trousered maidens

lost in

curious contemplation

of us, half drop their protecting drapery from before their

faces.

One bazaar

is

underground and delightfully cool

An open

and comfortable.

market-place

is

faced with tiny,

box-like booths in two stories, each so low that the

on the

sitting cross-legged

his turban.

carver above

floor

almost touches the roof with

tailor is often at

work below and a wood-

or a shoemaker at his

last,

beneath a merchant

of brasses; bundles of firewood stand sociably

clothes dealers;
in a basket
his

on

man

his

by the

passes, laden with ropes of

back and

owner

in rings

neck and on his arm; another

old-

all sizes

and loops around

selling cornucopias of

popcorn from a tray balanced on his head.

sheep are driven in

Long-wooled
to market, the lambs carried around

the neck exactly as in the catacomb pictures of the

Good

Shepherd.
In the grain market, too, there
color,

many

is

a wonderful play of

sauntering purchasers, groups about the weigh-

ing machine, and long rows of burlap bags

262

filled

with different

MOSTAR TO SARAJEVO
seeds and presided over by dignified peasants.

Fruit and

vegetable markets are always attractive, but here they are out
in

such a glare of radiating heat that no amount of strange

new

types tempt us to linger.

are glad to get into the

from pavements and close stucco

our cool retreat beyond the Bosna River.

motor again and

houses to

We

flee

263

CHAPTER XXV
ILIDZE

'T^HE

sun

TO JAJCE

sets this

VIA TRAVNIK

evening with the colors of the Red

Sea, changing from golden into lemon, then to orange,

almost crimson, with soft greenish touches.

is

so entrancing that

we saunter out

into the park, through

shadowed pathways and open spaces, on

by a chorus of happy

The moonlight

to a pond, guided

frogs.

In the distance, bright colored lights and merry voices

of a native kavana, or caje,

tell

and the low growl of a bear

We retrace

warns us that we are near the zoological garden.

our steps to the vine-hung pergola; strangely enough to

there

is

no dew, but that delicious cool

air

us,

which the night

brings to a garden.

Under

the

awning on our own broad

to the nightingale's

terrace,

trill,

is

the

large

to

soft whistle,

formal garden beneath

bare and devoid of a semblance of plant

the grass borders are green.

in the afternoon, I
ing.

if

a burst of melody, over and over again.

One morning,
window

listen

romantic song; a gentle twitter, as

ask his mate, "Are you asleep?" and then a

a lovely

we

rub

my

What a wonderful

On

life

my
only

our return from Sarajevo,

eyes to see whether I

am

climate Bosnia possesses!

dream-

Banana

plants have appeared and

heliotrope, salvia,

grown to three feet high, geraniums,

pansies, even roses and fuchsias have come

out of the ground and brought

264

forth

blossoms,

it

is

ILIDZE TO JAJCE VIA TRAVNIK

Aladdin's magical lamp again!

I don't

know

what time

at

the gardeners begin their work, but at 6:30 they are in the

midst of

it,

between

sibly for coffee.

8 and 8:30 they

full

trousers,

embroidered leggings, and

pointed opanka, they are very decorative

bit of

disappear, pos-

In their spotless turbans, red vests and

broad sashes, dark

Every

all

watering

the flowers.

among

done with a sprinkling pot

is

filled

again and again from a convenient fountain.

A
I

flock of goldfinches flash

by

in the dazzling sunshine.

hear the strident note of the cuckoo, then his

the white

thumb-marks on

The golden

wood.

call,

and see

his tail as he flies silently into the

oriole gives his flute-like call over

and

over again, and the magpies are both numerous and noisy.

The bees

are almost too friendly, for they whiz in

room and help themselves

of one's

to the sweets

and out

on the out-

of-door breakfast table.

I

do not

get

accustomed to the mode of salutation which

has pursued us ever since entering Austria.

door to bring in

my

"Kilss die

shoes.

Hand,''''

open my
salutes some
I

one from the corridor; a knock on the door,

as

'^Herein," I hear again, ^'Kussdie Hand,'^ and

my

coffee walks in; the

woman

who changes my

even the

little girl

am

so
I

bill,

as I enter and leave; the

the porter

who opens

the door,

am shaking with the absurdity of it.

embarrassed, too, by

much and

it,

scrubbing the steps as I pass explodes with

^'Kuss die Hand," until I

I

morning

in charge of the "Bad,'^ not only

says ^'Kuss die Hand,''^ but does

cashier

I call

my own

discourtesy in accepting

never even answering ''You

have never learned just what to say.

265

're

welcome."

MOTORING
The

notices in the

rooms here are

and Turkish.

Slavic,

but

stations,

all

THE BALKANS

IN

Not only

in

the

German, Hungarian.
names on the railroad

and small, are printed

as well as the modern Roman characters.

the time-tables, large

in the old Slavic,

Perhaps one reason that we feel so very far from home

is that we have not seen a
newspaper since leaving Ragusa.
There are plenty of journals lying around but they seem to
be mostly in the Slavic, Turkish, or Hungarian languages.
Are there no native women in Ilidze, I v/onder. I 've
seen but one on the village street.

noon, dressed in black

full

She passed

trousers to ankle,

this after-

wooden

sabots,

short black sleeveless jacket cut low in front over a

full

white shirt with sleeves rolled up, and white kerchief bor-

dered with pale blue on her head.

The

and wanting
I

is

parcels-post
to send

very convenient throughout Europe,

some things

concluded to attend to

it

to a friend near Vienna,

myself.

Surely a government

would know German, and possibly English.

official

Slip-

ping out just before luncheon, I discovered that the post

office

was closed from twelve

to two;

leaving plenty of

leeway, I sallied forth again at about four o'clock, and met

on the door-step. He politely remarked

Hand'\' and after unlocking the door, waited

the post-master
'^Kiiss die

me

for

and

to precede

critically at

him

into the

office.

there

"Oh,

yes," I

the mail

is

is

looked long

the simple address in Wien, and vainly

searched his books for the suburb to which

"But

He

it

was

."
no post office at D
reply, 'T am sure there is, but

distributed

from the main

266

office in

it

directed.

may

Wien."

be

ILIDZE TO JAJCE VIA TRAVNIK

He
these

makes up his mind

terms and turns it over.

to accept the parcel

finally

"But

"Oh!
"Yes,

not sealed."

is

it

Is that
it

on

allowed?"

better so."

is

''Could you perhaps do

"Certainly," and with the

cures a large stick of red

me?"

for

it

utmost deliberation he pro-

wax and a box

proceeds to seal the parcel at each end.

people have come

in,

ask.

of

By

matches and

this

time three

and, while waiting their turns, watch

with keen interest these apparently unusual proceedings.

"Please wTite your name there," he indicates the place

and watches me as

room

a cupboard for
receipt book.

write

Then he walks

it.

scales

rather a

It is

relief,

Upon

home

at

way

settling

Hand,'" as he
gazing after

if

someto our

^^

Kilss die

and the three waiting suppliants stand

as I leave the office.

In the cool of the

avenue

quiet,

our account, he again says,

rises,

me

all this

Such a contrast

what clumsy, business method.

rushing

across the

and back again for the weights, to

the necessary label, and to a drawer for the

some big

to

late afternoon,

of chestnuts for about

two

we walk out

miles, to

the straight

where the Bosna

gushes from the rocks in several separate streams at the foot

of Mt. Igman.
The government trout-breeding establishment here is extremely interesting. They show us the fish
in

all

stages,

from the egg

nearly a pound.
alike, as the

Of course

to

the

big fellows weighing

these sources are a good deal

Gentle Lady asserts, but

267

it

makes an excuse

MOTORING
for a fine tramp,

so cool that

The
we

we

IN

THE BALKANS

and on the way back the

are glad to take

it

has become

air

rapidly.

fragrance of the trumpet honeysuckle tells us that

are nearing the park surrounding the hotel

magnolias, in exquisite

mauve

tints,

the Chinese

stand like ghost flowers

waving linden branches; the larches

cast feathery shadows upon the white pathway, and the
woodbine, our own Virginia creeper, seems to bring home
in fairyland, against the

very near us as

The

we

enter the wreathed doorway.

Gacko, Mostar, and

hotels at

Ilidze are operated

by the government, and we discover that our enthusiastic

motorist who waved to us so cheerfully on the way from

Gacko

to

Mostar

is

the director here.

know how we Americans happen

Ilidze
this

by motor, and begs us

comfortable establishment

to

He

come

is

all

curious to
the

way

to

knowledge of

to spread the

He

among our countrymen.

overwhelms us with kind attentions, decorates our car when

we

leave until

it

looks ready for the Battle of Flowers at

Nice, and even orders our luncheon prepared for us at

Travnik, besides giving us valuable instruction about the

state of the roads

Bound
the right

throughout Bosnia.

for Jajce

we

cross the Zujevina, take a road to

by the Krisanje

undulating

hills

inn,

and are soon

in the midst of

green with forests or fruits or grain.

am

unaware that we are climbing, until we come to a steep descent down which we go in four loops into the valley of the
Lepenica.
times of

Here the houses are sometimes adobe, some-

wood with long

shingles for the roofs

whitewashed

ovens, standing separate or under a corner of the roof, are

268

IHE HOTEL Ar ILIDZK

'^^^
I

1'.^..,

T^I'1<AL
J

COUXTRV

Mi )SQUK

HE PAIXIF.D MOSQUK,

XKAK

Ri

IRWMK

)M I'LJAK

ILIDZE TO JAJCE VIA TRAVNIK

The country

a noticeable feature.

is

well cultivated

and no

rocks are visible, except, alas! upon the road; for Bosnian
carts

make such narrow

wheel-tracks that one side or the

other of the motor must be always on the sharp stones.

Following the Lepenica River we cross and recross

before

reaching

Here we

Kseljak.

find

many

inns,

it

Turkish khan, and a Hotel Schwab, which looks inviting;

but we roll by without investigating. Soon the road turns,

becoming smoother and wider, and crossing the Fojnica

We

Gromeljak.

mosque with

its

Our way

at

stop to get a picture of a typical country

minaret of wood.

clings to the

range of Vratnica on our

river's
left.

brink with the snowy

Village follows village in

quick succession through this pleasant region. Jehovac,

with a view of Mt. Igman behind us, Mt. Vratnica beside
us,

and before us Mt.

Vlasic, covered with

snow; Breslovsko,

with forests of maples, white birch, and oak; then Bjelalovac,

where a crowd of men

lounge

in

and

sashes,

attitudes before a Turkish

khan,

in white, with red turbans

picturesque

we

There are wooden posts every

pass.
half-kilometer now, although sometimes the painted figures
saluting us as

have become obliterated.

The

fences are of

woven boughs

and the wandering pig wears two stakes, twelve inches

long, attached to a belt, which prevents him from getting
into the fields.

"How

do you suppose that woman keeps any water in

those shallow pails?" cries the Gentle Lady, as we meet
a trousered female, almost running, balancing on a straight
rod across her shoulders, two brimming buckets of water.
269

MOTORING
As we

Women

THE BALKANS

IN

cross the Kozica River the road

ploughing with oxen in the

instead of trousers, and the

men

green with grass.

is

fields

here wear skirts

take off their fezes, or

turbans, instead of touching them, in salutation.

be that

we

It

must

are in a Catholic section.

At Busovaca the making of sun-dried brick seems to be

an important industry, and here we come again to the

We
railroad, which has taken another route from Sarajevo.
cross the

Lasva River, turning to the left by a big lumber

into a narrow valley between forest-

yard and sawmill,

covered

hills

with an occasional projection of limestone or

sandstone rock.

There

is

way, and the highroad

the

hills

only

room

for the river, the rail-

narrow canyon; but soon

fruit orchards lie on gentle

in that

recede, farms and

slopes, birds are singing, the temperature is perfect, with

an overcast sky, and still before us towers snowy Vlasic.

The road is wide and smooth as we cross and recross the
serpentine Lasva.
streams.

These

Tiny

suspended over tributary

Bosnian structures have

mills are

characteristic

been described as box-like huts raised high on piles with

small solid wheels turning horizontally under the water. In
varying stages of dilapidation they prove a continual temptation to the
tractive

camera

than the

fiend,

We

last.

long-shingled, pointed roofs,

each one seeming more

pass white stucco houses with

and crosses on each end

ridge pole, the poorer houses being of

sometimes of wattles under

The rock-hewn sides

Dolac.

Orioles flash

of

by

at-

of the

adobe bricks, or

plaster.

Mt. Vlasic seem close

us, and, as

270

we

to us, near

cross the

Lasva

A BUTTERFLY OF A MAIDE.V
(TRAVNIk)

rilK NIZIICRS, IRAWlk

THE FOUNTAIN HY IHE lOMBS

lOMBS OF

ILIDZE TO JAJCE VIA TRAVNIK

with

we

see in

mid-stream a Turkish wagon overflowing

women and

children, their bright garments forming a

again,

veritable

poppy bouquet.

The women

water!

How

the horses enjoy the cool

stare fixedly at us

from beneath

their

silken hoods.

Soon the old walled

comes

into view.

castle of

Travnik crowning the

According to tradition,

it

was

hill

built

by

Ban, or King, of Bosnia in the fourteenth century, and although the town has been burned many times
in its change of masters, the walls and towers of the castle

Tvertko

still

II.,

stand intact.

Crossing the rushing Lasva and slowly traversing the

crowded bazaar, we stop

before our hotel door.

from the motor we

at the farther

It is
feel

very hot.

the

reflection

end of the town

As soon as we

step

from the burning

pavements; but the Leader says, reproachfully: ''Didn't

you see those tombs we passed just a little way down the
street?

We

will just

have time to look at them before

luncheon."

The bazaar
start out.

It

holds pictures that I long to snap, so

did not seem any distance at

all in

we

the car,

but plodding along on foot in the heat of noonday gives us

a very different standard, and it seems to me we shall never
reach that painted mosque, which the guide-book says

ought to

we

see.

groups are worth while. A gypsy family

squatting in a shady corner of the sidewalk a trio of country
women stalking toward the market-place; a company of

The

street

turbaned

men under an awning around a

271

table;

a vender

MOTORING
some

IN

THE BALKANS

huge can of water in one hand, a heavy

basket in the other, and on his head an oblong tray. One
tiny butterfly of a maiden I intercept on her way home from
of

sort with a

school, to the grinning delight of her older brother.

bazaar

is

The

almost deserted, but the tables of piled-up vege-

and

charming in color beneath the loggia

of the painted mosque.
For this differs from other mosques
in having an arcade around three of its sides, and in this
tables

fruits are

arcade are small booths under sheltering

for the

and

sun seems almost

bells

and odd-shaped

and cheeses displayed

enough

mosque

are

from a motor when

nificent oak-trees are really interesting.

Mohammedan

surmounted by a kind of
column;

The

more

attractive caught

under magInstead of a turban

viziers

fashion, these

tall fez

paintings on

their crude colors are

somewhat softened by distance.

The canopied tombs of the Bosnian
in the usual

umbrellas,

to melt the nails

tools, not to mention the sweets

in great variety.

the outside walls of this

in a flying glimpse

fierce

tilted

gravestones are

cut in one piece with the

a carved slab outlines the grave, and the

supporting the

stone

The open dome

is

pillars

roof have simply wrought capitals.

screened with wire netting and heavy

iron bars placed between the pillars to keep ofT marauders.

The

inevitable fountain

is

Travnik

running

water.

for four

hundred years

close at

hand with constantly

was the

chief

until the seat of

city

of

Bosnia

government was

transferred to Sarajevo.

"Do

you know, we are on the very

last

page of the Bae-

deker," says the Gentle Lady, as after an excellent luncheon

272

ILIDZE TO JAJCE VIA TRAVNIK

we

"What

are preparing for the afternoon ride.

going to do next?"

"Going through
thusiast

is

it

backwards, perhaps!"

are

the

we
En-

daring.

Leaving Travnik by way of a charming avenue of ancient

poplars, following the willow-bordered, wandering Lasva,

passing a mossy wayside fountain where

dervish,

we come

Ismail Baba.

man

that

feet in

However,

we pause

it is

of the

not to

a long-haired

Holy Mohammedan,

do homage

to this

ordinary forest
little

good

but to the colossal poplar which, nine

diameter and nearly four hundred years old,

enormous trunk

tomb

to the

sits

lifts its

into the air, bearing branches the size of

trees.

farther along,

on the right-hand

side, in

field

Bogomile stones, much worn by

A whole family comes out
the weather, but very curious.
of a neighboring house and stands in the shade of their

above us are four or

five

own doorway watching

us wistfully until

are certainly Christians, as the

women

they belong to that once persecuted

It is

we

we

leave.

They

are not veiled.

sect, the

very warm, even with the motion

Do

Bogomiles?
and

of the car,

envy the bare-legged peasant standing in midstream,

mending his wattled barrier. There is plenty to occupy
half

our attention in the road, however, for no sooner do we

wait for a drove of cattle to be urged by than flocks of sheep

and goats and even pigs advance toward

us,

and long

lines

of laden horses tied six or eight in a string.

The

becomes narrower, the sheltered slopes are

covered with forests, and both apple and cherry trees are
valley

273

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

masses of fragrant bloom.

Beyond Goles

station, the hills

are lower with open fields, but no villages,

and we begin to

Komar

climb over the

Saddle.

At the

first

we

long loop

snowy Vlasic, which we have had before

the day, and stop for water at a house by the road.

face the other side of

us most of

Three picturesque peasants saunter out through the open

door, yawning,

muscular

fine

apparently

is

keen interest

fellows, with

Another one looks out

disturbed at their siesta,

lazily

in the

motor

car.

from an upper window, which

evidently on a level with the floor.

After another two loops and a long ascent,

we

arrive at

and four minutes, including

The distance from Travnik (11 50 feet) is twenty-

the top (3090) feet, in an hour

stops.

two kilometers, or thirteen and three-fourths

descent to Oborgi

is

so steep that the railroad

is

a rack and

pinion one, but the grades of the highway are well

and the stones are few, so that

we

wooded

We

valley of the Jablan.

are forced to stop.

hot for coats,

coast easily

managed

down

to the

are enjoying the marsh

meadows beyond Oborgi,

storm, which is so violent that we

marigolds which spangle

when we encounter

The

miles.

a dust

the

Finally putting on goggles,

it

is

too

and bending our heads, we move on through

the blinding gusts.

The whole
Vakuf,

them

countryside

is

returning from the market at

morning in May, I am sure, for we meet

Turks and Christians of both sexes, riding and

this pleasant

all;

driving and leading their mules.

ing his flock homeward,

is

One man,

while conduct-

busily knitting a stocking.

imposing big turban makes his occupation

274

all

the

more

His
in-

ILIDZE TO JAJCE VIA TRAVNIK

When we

congruous.

on the Urbas River,

is

even greater, and

traverse

its

its

reach Vakuf

full
it

is

of color

itself,

a Turkish town

and movement, the crowd

with the utmost difficulty that we

bazaar on our way through the

village.

Here we turn north, following this charming river in all

caprices, at times between wooded heights, again widening

with a swift current, breaking into cascades near Dogonovci

and

reflecting the lofty precipice near Vinac.

half-overgrown ruins faintly to be seen upon

the

work

of nature or of mediaeval

slip by, the air gains

on

its

conical

hill in

we

slip

The

its

summit

kilometers

and Jajce appears,

and gardens.

bit of freshness,

the midst of trees

Crossing the Pliva River, with

mills,

man?

Are those

its

array of quaint old

through the narrow gateway, and in a moment

are at the door of the hotel in Jajce.

275

CHAPTER XXVI
JAJCE

T THINK that was our hottest and

joyed

it

dustiest ride, but

notwithstanding and could imagine

how

we

en-

perfect

it

would have been had the temperature not been so unseasonable.

After dinner we were not too exhausted to go out in
the flooding moonlight out in the narrow streets with over;

by the fountain where a turbaned

figure squatted through the mediaeval gateway which looked
strangely stern and savage; across the rushing river; down,
hanging

latticed balconies;
;

down, down an interminable

flight of

to where, with deafening

the Urbas, one hundred

dusky time-worn

roar, the Pliva hurls

steps;

itself

into

Clouds of spray from

the thundering torrent blew over and around us and the
feet

tumult was overpowering.

rience, the

shelving

But not content with

Leader went on down

and
steps

point below the

that

below.

falls.

still

more

mossy,

to

foaming, tossing, tumbling

light

flights of

we, perforce, must follow

In the full glory of the moon's
flood

black projecting rocks of the abyss.

The morning

this expe-

draws us

It

rays,

plunged over the

was

indescribable.

irresistibly to the river's

brink again and to the clattering mills above the

falls.

How

seems that anything so thoroughly picturesque

can really serve a useful purpose! The huge wheels, dark
and dank, turn with a solemn slowness; the water gushes
impossible

it

from every loosened paling and

276

falls in

sheets of

foam below

JAJCE
and on the shores of each projecting

the low foot-bridges;

islet,

a tree or bush extends

The

spreading branches.

its

smaller streams turn into bridal veils below the tiny mills.

square, arcaded campanile rises on the hillside, remind-

ing one of Italy.

It

looks curiously out of place

these blackened Bosnian roofs.

among

Just within the gate

is

group of Turkish houses surrounding a minaret beside the

mosque rises a Lombardy poplar, beneath which is a fountain
;

an octagonal

of running water and, close by,

makes a charming

picture.

Kosluk on the other

side of the Urbas, the

So does the

overhanging eaves climbing up the

efifect

which

With

is

turret.

little

village

It

of

low houses with

hillside in

a Japanese

adorable.

all that,

the hotel here

is

a great disappointment;

comfortable enough, superbly located on a

cliff

above the

Urbas, but with no terraces, no balconies, no garden, and

no view from the rooms because the windows are too high.
The entire slope opposite has been thickly planted with
spruce below and beech above
its

many

paths zig-zag through

thicket, but not one road.

creamy horse with curved neck and waving mane

went rapidly along the path one afternoon; the man in his
white homespun, with red fez and sash, walked as rapidly
beside him.

thought of the fairy stories in the days of

my youth, as the Arab charger and

his

master wound through

shadows against the green hillside.

On Friday we meet many Turkish women out walking,
enveloped in heavy black coats and thick white headgear,
the dappled

in spite of the melting heat

but this
277

is

the only

day

in the

MOTORING
week

THE BALKANS

IN

that they are permitted the

whole families are

freedom of the

visiting the cemeteries

streets,

and

and sauntering

through the park opposite, some of them carrying babies

with big staring eyes.

"Would you

like to visit

"Perhaps the ladies would

take them this afternoon."

a harem?" asks our guide.

find

it

interesting;

my

wife can

So about four o'clock we accompany a pleasant young

German matron to a gateway not half a block from the

Pushing it open, we go across a cobblestone court,

up a few rickety steps to a second story porch, with holes in
Here are
the floor big enough to put one's foot through.
hotel.

three or four green trunks, a cupboard or two,

nails for clothing.

From one

side

and a few

opens the man's room,

comfortable and clean, containing a big stove, a glass case

Turkish books, a divan a few inches high built under the

window and covered with a rug. From the porch another
of

door

is

pushed open, and these are the women's quarters.

kitchen

first,

the furniture consisting of a big platform of

clay with a brazier of ashes and a brass coffee-pot on

behind the door hang tongs and

ened with smoke and

we

irons,

full of holes.

and the roof

is

it;

black-

Into the sitting-room

by the hostess, who, dressed in faded calico

trousers and a brown shawl which conceals every vestige
are invited

of hair, receives us pleasantly.

Only one blackened tooth

remains, but she does not on that account hesitate to smile.

Taking up a

large part of the room,

is

a hand -loom for

weaving the thin white muslin so common in the Orient;

besides this, a porcelain stove, two low divans covered with
278

JAJCE
and a corner cupboard holding the beds, which are
spread on the floor at night. The woman's black cloak and
rugs,

white street head-covering hang on a hook in the corner.

A
after

young woman with badly scarred cheeks enters, and,

some persuasion, shows us her needle work. " Without

makes her own designs and stitches, embroidering handkerchiefs, towels, and napkins in gold thread
and bright silks for her trousseau," translates our guide.
instruction

she

This

is

famous gold-thread work of the harem

both

sides.

''

the

How old

is

"Vedigia.

she

What

is

her

name ?"

They never know

She

know.

they
They keep no account

their age.

cannot read or write.

I ask.

She does not

Oh, about twenty.

on

alike

is

a daughter."

Just then another pale, scrawny

woman

appears, bare-

on her

footed,

and dressed

head

a tiny red cap sewn with gold sequins and seed pearls.

*'She

is
is

a step-daughter," we are told, "and that

who

girl

in dreadful calico trousers, but

clings to her so tightly.

been dead

six

months."

They

Her
all

father,

is

little

priest,

has

look with dread at the

camera, but finger our embroidered waists and ask

it

her

if

we do

ourselves.

Turkish

women comb

their hair

but once a week,

being considered bad for the hair to do

young

girl

oftener!

The

has had a dreadful carbuncle on her cheek, but

before she would permit a

and she nearly

still

it

it

did.

to look at

it

she would die,

It is difficult to believe that there are

thousands of poor

phere of ignorance.

man

women

We

living in this dreadful atmos-

shiver, as

279

we come away,

at the

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

hopelessness, the misery, of these

man, the Moslem

religion

there are phases of

for

women
One evening,

it

may be

forlorn creatures.
all

For

very well, certainly

which are extremely beautiful!

But

strange minor cadences falling from a

height called us to the window, and, in the darkness,

we

leaned out to hear again the muezzin at nine o'clock, as he

walked around the tiny gallery of the minaret and to the four
winds of heaven sent forth his plea for prayer. The voice
was strong and young and vibrant with feeling. In the
distance a deeper tone

was heard, and

faintly, still farther

away, another, before stillness settled over the sleeping

and the nightingales took up their ceaseless love songs.

of

city

The combination of radiant moonlight and the melodies

Above the
nightingales made sleep for me impossible.

swiftly flowing river, far below, I leaned

and drank

in the exquisite

from

my

beauty of the night.

casement

twitter,

an oft-repeated note, a trill and another note in a higher key,

then, when an answering call was heard, the songster

burst forth with such a

mad

revelry of song

it

seemed un-

earthly, so wild the melody, so piercingly sweet the tones!

When do
all

the nightingales sleep

For they sing

all

day and

night, above the rushing river.

Late one afternoon,

in desperation over the intense heat,

by its rapids and green

pools, by its swamps of yellow iris, where goldfinches and
magpies flock, to the lake of Jezero, about six miles from

we motored along

Jajce.

the Pliva River,

Here we stopp-d

at

a Theahiitte for a cup of

tea,

but the porch overhanging the water proved so temptingly

280

JAJCE
cool,

and the trout

so delicious, that

Men

moored

in their cage

we determined

to the steps looked

to have our supper there.

a native canoe passed, their red fezes making a

in

bit

on the green water. Gradually the twilight deepened, and through its shadows we motored back to Jajce.
That evening the great waterfall was to be illuminated
of color

"I do not know whether

for us.

but

do

thought we would try

it," said

level,

it

it

will

amount

to anything,

they seemed so anxious to

So we walked down to the river

the Leader.

crossed the bridge, and

up on the other

side, to

pavilion in the park directly opposite the cataract.

Here

taking possession of a garden bench, the only seats,

we

by twos and threes glided

along the paths and dropped down on the grassy banks outside, until we thought most of the population was abroad.
patiently waited.

Soon a great
ing waterfall,

Silent figures

upon the foamand the illumination began. It was really

flash of softened ivory played

very beautiful, lasting about half an hour, with varying

effects,

not only on the dashing water, but on the pictur-

esque fortress above the terraced town and the crowds of

gaylv costumed people

on both sides of the

who occupied each

One day we climbed

to the old castle

captured by the Turks in 1528.

There

is

which was
not

but ancient walls and grass-grown spaces;

view

is

vantage-point

river.

charming over the

much

last

to see

however, the

and adjacent hills.

the shut-in little town of

city, river,

Here we caught just a glimpse of

factories and mills, which, in order

to utilize the valuable

water power without marring the beauty of Jajce proper,

281

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

has grown up behind a concealing cUff at one side of the

city.

Near
what

is

the

campanile of

St.

called the catacombs.

subterranean galleries in mind,

Luke

With
I

is

the entrance to

visions of the

hesitated to go

Roman

down

the

dark stairway which led into the depths below; but

the guide held up his blazing torch, the Leader waited to

steep,

follow me, and I stumbled

down

the broken steps, coming

very soon to an irregular chamber excavated in the solid

This evidently was one of the cave churches where

the early Christians used to worship, and which they used
rock.

The dome,

also as a burial place.

and

the arches, the altars

recesses, as well as the sculptured decorations, are

with remarkable

No

hewn.

date

skill.
is

Beneath

is

a crypt more roughly

assigned to this work, but on one of the

walls of the ante-chamber are carved the

whom

after

done

the octagonal tower

arms

in the

of that

Hrvoja

market-place

at

Spalato was named, and who died in 141 5.

But the great sight of Jajce was on Sunday morning,
when the whole countryside gathered in the Catholic church,

and afterward assembled

market square. After

twenty-four days of sunshine, a heavy shower in the night
had cooled the air, and we felt quite energetic as we walked

down

the

the steep paths, between high walls, to the Franciscan

church.

The

in

Alas!

we were

not early enough to get inside.

congregation overflowed at each of the doors and

fol-

hands with open

lowed the service devoutly, holding up their

palms at the Adoration, and at the Elevation touching the
forehead to the earth.

The

air

282

was so

stifling that I

could

JAJCE
not stay within six feet of the entrance, for

issued in

it

waves from that mass of humanity; but they

looked very clean, and the white garments had a cool

great, heated
all

appearance, even

if

made

of wool.

men unwound

Inside the church, the

and flung one end over the

left

shoulder.

made an

out into the sunlight, they

around the

After

altar

on

service

in

He

1493.

their knees repeating

who was

lies

them around

many women went

entered to see the skeleton of poor

king of Bosnia,

As they came

effective picture in all

the postures of turning and winding

heads again.

their red turbans,

their

entirely

a prayer.

Tomase witch,

We

the last

by the Turks
above a wooden slab

cruelly put to death

in a glass coffin

inscribed with his name.

Following the crowd through the shady

streets,

we came

out on the market-place, and here I grew bolder and bolder.

Evidently these good people had no objection to the camera,

for they

would

posed with childlike eagerness.

translate for me,

I scarcely

had time

and

to look

was

Some one near by

so busy turning

my

spool,

up and thank him before another

more beguiling appeared.

The scene was most diverting; the people themselves

subject

still

enjoyed the opportunity for a pleasant chat, the

women

more on an equality with the men, and certainly they were openly admired by them in many cases.
A boy selling doughnuts strung on a stick called his wares
in sweet, minor tones.
Some girls were buying shoes, others
seemed

to be

There were Spanish Jewesses

wearing the unbecoming cap which distinguishes them;

were laden with cotton

cloth.

283

MOTORING

IN

THE BALKANS

and many gypsies at their traditional craft of begging. The

women were lavishly bedecked with jewelry, necklaces,

and head bands; often they wore an

box on a chain around their necks. In Cyprus

belt buckles, rings,

oval silver

would contain a prayer, in India the betelnut. Both

men and women had drawn-work and embroidery on their
shirt sleeves, and beaded opanka on their feet.
Girls of
this

the Greek

Church

those of the

heads.
jacket,

let their

Roman wound

hair

hang

in long braids, while

their braided tresses about their

lady in black satin Turkish trousers, short,

and a

fitted

cap was evidently of the higher

The town men in their black silk trousers trimmed

classes.

close black

with dark red, tight below the knee and opening over the

a sash of yellow or red; a blue, short jacket

trim shoe;

braided with red over the soft embroidered white shirt;

and wearing the red

ance.

The

older

have a well-set-up appearsport wider sashes and splendid

fez jauntily,

men

turbans.

"I
hotel

do

am

so tired and so

warm

and

rest," said the

Gentle Lady in pathetic tones.

So "back to the hotel" we went,

the remainder of the day.

284

let's

and

go back

to the

"rested" during

CHAPTER XXVII
JAJCE

TO BANJALUKA ON TO BOSNISCH-NOVI

""DANJALUKA,"
"What an
''Like

me

fine

repeats the

Asiatic

Leader, half to himself.

sound the word has!"

Bokhara, Belgrade, Bucharest.

rugs and embroideries, and that

They mean

to

is all."

to-morrow we go on to Banjaluka. It is only

forty-eight and a half miles and a famous ride."
It is cool and bright when we leave the
bewitching city
''Well,

of Jajce, with

its

glorious waterfall, and passing under

the gateway follow the Urbas toward the north.

At a stone

bench under a pollarded oak a short ways out we turn back

for

last look.

extends
the

down

From

the lofty castle the battlement wall

the hillside, enclosing the low-roofed houses,

minarets, and the big white Franciscan church and

monastery, in the midst of trees and gardens, just above the

narrow, rushing

The road

is

river.

in excellent condition without

shaded by cherry and walnut

the white

hawthorn.

After

trees,

any dust and

blossoming locusts and

crossing

the

river the cliffs

creamy stone draw nearer and nearer, the spangled fields

The genista hangs its
disappear, and we enter the gorge.
of

yellow flowers over the brown -streaked rocks, the mountain

ash

is

tree

we

in its native

haunt, and beyond a magnificent beech-

stop to light the lanterns, for an iron bridge leads

into a curving tunnel.

Two

faint

28s

specks appear

in the dis-

MOTORING
tance,

not to

IN

THE BALKANS

marking the centre of the curve. We are very glad

meet anything in that reverberating darkness.

As we emerge a man

hastily takes off his

coat and

from seeing us. The

corners are sharp and we blow the horn in warning, going
covers his horse's head to keep

water troughs are placed along the route

Many

cautiously.

for the refreshment of

The

now

precipices

it

man and

beast.

are so sheer that the road enters this

second gorge through a short tunnel, and on our

mill

is

left

a tiny

placed over a small cascade which tumbles into the

Here huge beeches and locusts, lindens

and maples, willows and the fragrant walnuts, cover the
cliffs below the rocky heights and fill each bit of earth

rapids of the Urbas.

The

beside the stream.

elder

is

in blossom,

and masses

of

wild flowers, yellow, purple, and white, carpet the ground

under the big

trees.

The Ugar River joins us on the right and, beyond the

road leading to Omarsko on our left, there is a striking
view of great gray crags rising sheer and seeming to close

around the over-lapping points we

see on the height the huge ruined castle of Bocae and
the half-way house, where the diHgence
beside us the inn,
the

way.

Slipping

from Banjaluka
of an hour.
Gradually the
smiles

upon

Aginoselo.

we plunge
Urbas.

us,

to

Jajce

daily halts

three-quarters

become lower and the open country

green fields and scattered farms of

cliffs

the

Then another mountain

in, still

Close to

for

way made by
rocky bed we keep, for

following the
its

wall looms ahead and

286

the rushing

there

is

no

JAJCE TO BANJALUKA
Walnuts and lindens shade us from the sun,

other space.

clematis twines and spreads over low bushes,

birds are

many

seen and heard, and above us are ever the towering crags.

We

meet peasants walking, dressed

wool, bound with leathern

minds

creamy

studded with coins.

whom we

are driving horses for

their

belts

in attractive

wait until they

They
make up

to pass us quietly.

Suddenly on the height appears an old watch-tower,

another and a third, completing the ruins of Krupa's castle,
which on the other side of the cliff resolves itself into a picturesque whole.

we did

They

say there

an inn

is

at

Krupa, but

not see any likely place to stop.

At the end

of a

broad

valley,

another old

castle,

with

vine-draped walls, the Zwecaj-Grad, guards the entrance

to the wildest part

The mountain

we have

yet seen,

the Tjesno

Gorge.

walls approach so closely that the road

is

blasted from the overhanging rock, a huge cave on our right

echoes with our rumbling progress, and

of

relief

to

me

at

least

that

it is

with a feeling

we emerge from

these

depths and cross the Urbas into Jagare and Karanovac. A

woman, with peacock feathers in her cap, looks at us curiously from the bazaar.

We re-cross the river and

soon after

enter the uninteresting, long, straggling street of Banjaluka

and turn

in at the hotel entrance.

Imagine horse chestnuts planted so closely together that

not a ray of sunlight can penetrate, clipped high enough to
permit people to walk about comfortably underneath them;
imagine these trees in blossom and the birds singing; imagine

small tables set with

clean

287

linen

in

the grateful

MOTORING

IN

shade; imagine delicious trout,

breeze with the coffee!

What a

luka.

Do we
all.
New

That

THE BALKANS
fresh asparagus, and a cool
what awaits us

is

in

Banja-

joy to again take our meals out of doors

Not

miss the view of the roaring river Urbas ?

costumes on the

women

Heaven
carriages

queer country

at

claim our attention;

save

the

mark

go

and an orange vender wanders in, a flat basket

arm. Might I kodak him? He almost blushes

rattling by;

on

either

He

with delight.

is n't

exactly handsome, and shows his

blackened teeth in as foolish a grin as any maiden of sixteen

Mysteriously enough there are no

could furnish.

disturbing insects
Banjaluka

is

flies

or

at least in sight.

and

in a flat plain, the streets are broad,

the sidewalks are beautifully shaded with locusts and chest-

nuts
is

now

in full blossom.

They

are kept sprinkled, and

it

a delight to walk in the cool arch of greenness.

'T never heard of a

that side street

is

fort here,

but there at the end of

something that looks

like

an old

wall.

you hke to go down that way?"

Half reluctantly we leave our cool shade to walk even for

Would

n't

a short distance in this white glare of sunlight, but as we

turn a

comer

fortifications,

can

it

be?

against the green trees in a gap of the ancient

we behold a moving mass

We

of red fezes.

What

go nearer and discover hundreds of young

peasants in their holiday

gay with embroidery and

attire,

overlapping coins, before the entrance to the barracks.

is

brilliant

scene,

evidently

stand in groups, or play a

sward under the big

game

trees, the

288

It

a conscription.

As they

of ball, or lounge

upon the

play of light and shade

is

JAJCE TO BANJALUKA
wonderful.

Only two women are

to be seen,

and those are

This experience does much to redeem the little

our eyes. "For it must be confessed the name is

both old.

town

in

much more

dinner that evening.

ast at

''There
is

Oriental than the place," remarks the Enthusi-

is

no view, there

nothing to be seen.

is

There

only comfort and coolness and the fragrance of flower-

ing trees."

"We
"If

are spoiled perhaps," answers the Gentle Lady.

we had come

here

first

or even Sarajevo, doubtless

For Banjaluka

is

ing bits

its

we should

distinctly ambitious

ting air of prosperity.

of

before seeing Mostar or Jajce,

old

One

regime.

appreciate

it

more."

and bears an aggrava-

has to hunt for the fast departIts

younger inhabitants are

adopting the hideous clothes of civilization, and the blocks

of

new

esque.

them!
their

buildings are a sore

However,

with

the

trial to

country

the lover of the pictur-

Heaven

bless

and sheepskin

coats,

people,

their fringed trousers

gay sashes and embroidered waistcoats, are

still

to be

seen in abundance, bringing their produce into the city in

quaint wagons of woven basket-work.

At Banjaluka no nightingales above a rushing river keep

us from sleep. But another and different sound awakens us
morning, for the workmen here have no foolish prejudices about beginning their labors at seven o'clock.
If a
in the

fence needs repairing, whether under one's

window

or out

by six o'clock the man is hammering nails with

a vigor and vim worthy of a later hour.
However, we mean

in the open,

to

get

an early

start

to-day, as
289

we

are not sure of the

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

conditions on these northern Bosnian roads.

route

we

are

to

as

take

far

as

Prjedor

is

Indeed, the

marked

not

upon our map.

market-day also at Banjaluka, and as we start out
we become thoroughly convinced of this, for the way is
It is

lined with groups of

men and women coming toward

us.

Again the costumes differ from any that we have yet seen, a
long white tunic embroidered on the front and sleeves, belted
with a wide piece of bead work, and finished with a deep-

bag hanging across the back. The hair is

the middle and smoothed down behind the ears

fringed bead

parted in

under a white

close cap,

trimmed with a

strip

worn on the back

of

cross-stitch

on

of the

head and

Some

embroidery.

and a

have deep
few have dark blue aprons, but both men and
borders of red

look

their head-kerchiefs

immaculately clean, and

the

women's

women

figures

are

trim and slender in contrast to the heavier outlines of the

Jajce peasants.

At a near cross-roads we turn

reads plainly

''to

to the

for the post

Prjedor," and underneath locusts and haw-

thorn, with an occasional white birch,

rolling hills.

left,

Charming views

we speed

over the

of grain fields surrounded

wattled fences alternate with copses and the whole

veloped in a thin blue haze.

and the friendly landscape

of yesterday.

The sun

is

The meandering road

restful after the

is

ferns are growing in profusion.

damp

smooth

Under

hollow, finely cut

Farmhouses, with thatched

out-buildings, are scattered along the roadside.

290

by
en-

mountain scenery

hot, but the air delicious.

a grove of weeping birches in a

is

JAJCE TO BANJALUKA
"What a nice little country road!" comments the Gentle
Lady, "so much more comfortable than the dusty highway."
"Have you noticed, we haven't seen a single Turkish
house since leaving Banjaluka?" asks the Enthusiast.
"This must be a Catholic section, I suppose," answers
the Gentle Lady.

The many

culverts

them askance

remind us of our roads

at

home we
;

they seem so insecure but although

the boards often squeak and rattle, we always cross in
look at

safety.

woman's

bright yellow head-kerchief reflects the

sunlight as she guides a horse

field

larks are singing

pies flash

by

and harrow across a distant

and a hawk soaring overhead

magand we cross the railroad again, near the

us;

station for Ivanjska.

The

grades over the Kukovica Saddle are rather steep,

but short, and the whole effect of the countryside resembles

Wisconsin more than any region we have seen for a long

time.
To be sure, we miss the countless lakes, but the many
small streams keep the landscape green.

big Catholic

church in a grove of trees with no houses near, but sur-

rounded by sheds and booths with wooden tables and benches

seems to indicate a centre for a number of scattered hamlets.

Men

are busy ploughing the fields with oxen and horses

the

houses look well kept, the people prosperous; we see in the

barnyards sheep, horses and

cattle, goats, turkeys, chickens,

ducks and geese

a sharp bend in the road we

and

at

confront a big black buffalo and her calf!

Omarsko, and we pass Cikalowhere

the
cherries
are
vac,
green on the young trees and the
road to the

left

leads to

291

MOTORING

How

wild roses are in bloom.

locust

minaret

is

rises

above the treetops;

;

latticed

tassels!

houses hide in

henna-stained children appear

Kozorac.

How incongruous the

this

graceful the outlines of the

branches heavy with their fragrant white

high-walled enclosures
it

THE BALKANS

IN

rambling Turkish

of the

awkward

large Catholic church at one end of

village

We

meet several companies

buffaloes, but strangely

not afraid of the automobile.

The road

enough they are

is

rougher, dustier,

and more used than before we reached Kozorac.

orchards extend on either side of us and
dress are inspecting them.

garb of

We

civilization.

wheat bend

The workmen,

in

seat.

Great

Young

European

too, are in the

hear something about

from the front

colonists"

men

fields

"German
of

headed

in the southern breeze.

A man standing in the middle of the road waves his handWe stop and the Leader gets out to
kerchief frantically.
A small bridge is down and we must ford the
investigate.
stream.

Preferring to walk across,

we dismount, and

while

laborers arrange planks on the stones for us, they prepare

a comparatively safe crossing for the automobile.

steep cutting,

and

planks in the swift

mud, plunging on to the

running water, and safely up the other

into the soft

side goes our skilful chauffeur with the car.

I really believe

that car could climb the steps of the Capitol

necessary

if

it

were

"Did you

notice those

the Enthusiast, as

looked as

Down the

if

we

men had checked turbans?"

are going merrily on again.

they were a kind of gingham."

292

asks

"They

A XOKlii UOSXIAX COSTUMK,

\i:\K I'.AXJALl

KA

THE CAP
THE CAP

IX

IHE HACK

IX THE

FRONT

JAJCE TO BANJALUKA
"No, I didn't notice," confesses
was looking at the automobile."
At Prjedor we come
ing

it,

to the railroad again

traverse the rambling

Lady; "I

the Gentle

town with

its

and

cross-

church and three

mosques, its Turkish houses, and a very good-looking hotel.

The road twists across the plain, following the Sana River.

Grape vines are trained on lattices to the second story of the

houses; viburnam alnifolium blossoms in the hedges, undoubtedly wild; and just beyond Brezicani we cross the

Meeting a team, the frightened peasants

stop, carefully unharness the horses and lead

railroad again.

halloo for us to

them

an adjacent field where they stand patiently waiting for us to go on but the road is so narrow with ditches
on either side that the abandoned cart completely fills it.
into

They soon

recognize the situation, however, return, and

back away the cart.

"Any more motors coming?" they frantically ask, evidently thinking we are the advance guard for the Austrian

We reassure them while the

Automobile Club.

move an

ear, but watch us calmly from the

horses never

field.

Crossing the railroad again near Dragotinja, we get an

exhilarating spin over a good bit of road.

not a cloud in sight.

ing hot; there

is

low

on our

forests are

Our way

is like

right,

The sun

Green

is

grow-

hillsides

and

and beside us the shallow Sana.

an English lane; through

fields of

yellow

and buttercups, alternating with grain. The houses are

arranged with the stable below and an overhanging second
iris

story for the family.

Huge

log rafts

on the

river are very picturesque;

293

men

MOTORING

IN

THE BALKANS

stand in front with oars, and one at the back steers as the

them on; occasionally a canopy of

branches is arranged somewhere amidship for a passenger.
At Bosnisch-Novi we cross the Sana, which here flows into
swift

current carries

the Una, and dismount at the clean

2 94

little

hotel for luncheon.

CHAPTER XXVIII
LEAVING BOSNIA PLITVICA LAKES

IDOSNISCH-NOVI

is

close to the frontier of Croatia,

and a road leads from there almost

directly north to

Agram; but we are bound for the Plitvica Lakes first,

we make inquiries about getting to Bihac for the night.
''Why, certainly, the road
every day up the

Una

is

so

good, a motor-diligence goes

valley via

Krupa."
That sounds most encouraging. We decide

to

follow

this road.

Generally there

yard of a mosque.

is

an old and beautiful

It

may be a

tall

tree in the court-

cypress, a spreading

sycamore or linden, a huge oak or a graceful palm, according to the climate; but it is always tenderly nurtured and
well repays

care-takers with cool shade

its

and dappling

shadows against the fountain walls. Over the mosque at

but
Novi two great lindens lift their towering branches,

our admiration
clouds of dust.
turbed,

it is

by a fearful noise and rolling

The natives do not seem astonished or per-

is

cut short

nothing but the daily diligence,

diligence," they proudly add, as slowly

it

"a,

motor-

comes groaning

and puffing along the highway.

Knowing

well that this huge broad-tired affair,

a cross between a Black Maria and a steam

traverse the rocky

bed

of a

discomfort to the occupants,

which

roller,

is

could

mountain torrent without much

we do
295

not feel that

its

presence

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

necessarily guarantees good roads; but

we

set

out merrily to

try our fate.

The

green valley of the broad

Una

River

is

almost un-

bearably hot, and as we progress the ruts grow deeper and

more numerous; but the kilometer posts are well

kept up and plainly marked. Wooded hillsides rise on our
and a succession of
left, the Una's rapids on our right;
the stones

wagons and carriages pass

Orient

when

us.

We

we

feel

are leaving the

the ugly slouch or straw hat appears on men's

heads.

At the Turkish

kodak a

mill;

village of

and

just

Otoka we stop on

beyond the railroad

counter a covered wagon carrying

fully curtained off for the

many men,

women.

the bridge to

Cozin en-

to

the back care-

At sight of the auto-

men leap to the ground; but the poor women

only crouch down together until the shying horses are quiet.
I suppose if the cart tipped over they would make no move
mobile the

but go unprotestingly into the ditch;

Beyond Podvran, Krupa and

We

cross the

Una

attempt to follow

its

it

would be Kismet!

castle

come

into sight.

again, turning sharply to the right in an

its

serpentine course, and are relieved to

pass the up-going motor diligence, which

is

waiting here.

In

the shut-in valley, where the green slopes overlap, the heat
is

intense, the route stony

and rough.

The

peasants carry

red and blue umbrellas to keep off the sun's rays, as they

march

stolidly along.

The wooded

hillsides

grow

into gray

and high; the river keeps close to us all the way.

The route from Krupa to Bihac, recently "improved"

crags, steep

in order to avoid the long

climb over the Drenovo Pass,

296

lies

>
r

4^^

i_'*M*.

-.-"?-

LEAVING BOSNIA
through a beautiful gorge, where the deep green river quietly
pursues its course between masses of rock and great forests.

new

Strange

wild

pink and white and yellow,

flowers,

carpet the cool shade; but the road-bed,

make a mere

to

enough

step back, but

cliffs

still

the road-bed

motorist weep!

is

Gradually the

the palisades rise

on either

side.

At the gateway the precipitous heights are imposing; then

the river broadens, and a curious mud deposit forms small
islands in

midst.

its

On

a crag across the Una, connected with the highway

by a gate-house and a bridge, rises a large building like a
French chateau^ with mansard-roof and pointed towers

an enormous walled enclosure.

in
it

Strangely out of place

looks in this wilderness, and I long to

''Probably

it

"There may be a

is

know

its

asserts

restoration,"

history.

Leader.

the

can see the top of a

Brekozica?"

village near, for I

minaret on a height beyond.

Is

it

At Pokoj we leave our hill-enclosed valley and take a

straight road across the plain to Bihac.

On

our

left

the

ruined castle of Sokolac crowns an eminence and the Pljesevica

Mountains bound the horizon.

The
good.

hotel at Bihac

What

is

very plain, but clean, and the food

could one ask for better than brook trout, fresh

and delicious cake

vegetables,

double, with two windows,

To

be sure

on the
spotless.

it

floor,

We

is

My

marked

room, a front one, and

fifty-eight cents

a day.

has no carpet, rug, or even a piece of oilcloth

but the boards are scrubbed and the linen
take a walk in the twilight under the avenues

of blossoming chestnuts to the old

297

Mohammedan

cemetery,

MOTORING

IN

where the tombstones,

all

THE BALKANS

neatly straightened and white-

washed, give an individuality to the charming, shady park.

The

with the fragrance of the

air is delightfully cool, filled

white

locust.

nightingale, in a tree above our heads,

sings his whole repertoire in delicious abandon.

Bihac

is

yet quite

unaccustomed

touch their fezes as the stranger walks by and the

girls

pass with the pretty salute,

'^

Kiiss die

In the

small victorias go by the hotel.

men

to the tourist, the

Hand^

first

ride

the older with a turban, the younger wearing a

little

Three

two men,

The

fez.

two following carriages have white lace curtains drawn

tightly before the hood on the tiny front seats are two chil;

dren, but crouched in the back

From a

sit

the

women.

closely latticed house, in a court opposite

my

window, emerges a young Turkish gentlemen, dressed in

His fez bepale gray clothes, after the English fashion.
trays him, however,

and as he saunters

nearly runs against a

cow

that turns in at the

and calmly enters the same narrow door

which he has just come.

The country

into the street he

of the house through

carts go rattling merrily

already deafening

by

Why do they need bells

din ? No wonder we toot

before five o'clock.

and the big horn and the

siren in

keen whistle of the chauffeur

same gate

to

my window
add

to their

the small horn

only the
vain,

finally penetrates

sharp,

through

that racket.

Bihac, our last Bosnian town,

vica Mountains,

gradual ascent.

up which
Herds of

is

at the base of the Pljese-

in the early

morning we begin our

cattle are feeding in the grassy

298

LEAVING BOSNIA
meadows

the way.

line

Descending to
climb again into a higher, but

men

and flowering locusts

cross a shallow brook, we

of this green valley; catalpas

still

cultivated plain, where

are ploughing; then turn through

wooded

hills,

wonderful views in the clear atmosphere of the heights.

air

grows cool as we reach the old

a new building

we come

We

is filled

fortress of Zegar,

with

The
where

with soldiers; and in a few moments

into Zavalje, the first Croatian village.

The women

notice already the change in costume.

wear dark

skirts

with black velvet sleeveless jackets, some-

times embroidered with

gilt,

over

full

white blouses; and

yellow head-kerchiefs, the brighter the better.

"Are we going

to climb those

mountains?" asks the

chauffeur, nonchalantly, pointing to the great peaks rising

beside us.

"Yes,"

replies

the

Leader,

"but

at

a point

lower

down."

We

are on the east side of the plateau of the Pljesevica,

among barren, rocky moors, affording but scanty pasture to

The peasants tending
the many flocks of sheep and goats.
them smile upon us and touch

their red Croatian caps in

courteous greeting.
Past Baljevac

mountain

village

we

fly,

merely noting that

of log houses,

it

is

a typical

sometimes whitewashed,

with long shingled roofs, and only toothed, slanting boards

standing in a blackened hole in lieu of chimneys.

Turning a corner
pretty scene.

in the stony road,

half-dozen

we come upon a

men and women

holding a huge white cloth; in the centre a

299

in

a circle are

woman

with a

MOTORING
sieve

is

THE BALKANS

IN

kneeling; an old

dame

looks on gayly smiling, with

a young child grabbed tightly in either arm.

''They must be winnowing corn," says the Leader.

''What color and movement!"

cries the Enthusiast.

Other women are carrying odd-shaped pails of water

from the village fountain; lengths of homespun are spread

on walled fences

to bleach.

At Petrovoselo we turn south by a post

Priboj," and the road improves as
are fewer stones

men seems

the

and no deep

to

of Bosnia, for here the

Near

we ascend; that
The prevalent

"U
there

is,

dress of

be white tunic and trousers, blue sleeve-

and red cap.

less coat,

ruts.

marked

We

miss the twisted, brilliant sashes

men wear no

the top of the pass

we

belts.

stop to cool the engine.

Birds

and larches;
and women are

are singing in the stunted growth of alders

among

the boulders a cuckoo calls.

Men

shearing sheep in a most primitive fashion; holding the

struggling animal
clip great tufts of

Priboj

down with

the knee

and one hand, they

wool with the other.

itself is

twenty-two hundred

feet

above the

sea,

a rambling collection of houses, a post ofhce, and a wayside

fountain.

"Now we
And

have twenty-five miles to go," says the Leader.

leaving the highroad

down

to Gospic,

we turn

going due west; and at the cross-roads

right,

still

to the

keep to

brown ploughed fields

Farmhouses are sprinkled along

the right, getting a pleasant view of

and

of

waving grain.
the way, and a large Catholic cemetery
at the

edge of the

forest.

The bushes
300

is

beautifully placed

over the slopes have

ONE OF

JHP; PlJl'\itA lAI.LS

LEAVING BOSNIA
Are

a curiously clipped appearance up to a certain height.

they eaten by animals, or cut for firewood

As we near our

destination the road becomes a boule-

winding down through magnificent

vard for smoothness,

birch woods, while between the dancing leaves gleam and

glisten the peacock-blue

water and foaming cascades of

the Plitvica Lakes.

I catch

my

breath in rapture!

were anywhere

else

If these exquisite pools

but hidden away in the mountains of

would have a world-wide reputation. The

nearest point upon the railroad is Ogulin, more than forty
miles away; and Ogulin is seventy-one miles from Agram.
far Croatia they

Here
feel

in the midst of a dense forest of birches,

above sea

level,

two thousand

surrounded by green mountains, are

nineteen exquisite lakes of varying shapes, sizes, and levels

connected by

falls

and cascades, each one

Nothing has been done

to spoil the wilderness,

nient paths encircle the clear basins

vantage upon the higher

and the

The
home

air

of a different

hills.

It is

and

hue

but conve-

rise to points of

a bird's Paradise,

too,

resounds with their happy songs.

Here seems

wonderfully varied.

flora is

of our cultivated perennials

to be the

columbines of a marvel-

lous hue; centaurea, not only the bachelor's button, but the
fringed ones with the dark red centres;

dandelions more like asters;

in

many

shades

of the valley;

violets, of course,

and lupines

a fine yellow brassica and blue lobelia

lium Neapolitanum and baneberries

ing size and vigor;

pink starry

lilies

anemones

al-

of astonish-

marsh marigolds and vipers bugloss;

campion; rose-colored mint, something Hke our
301

MOTORING

but with flowers nearly an inch long;

self-heal,

tufts

yellow^

THE BALKANS

IN

of the

and the

anthyllis

the gay

l^ird's-foot

trefoil,

or lotus corniculatus; the gorgeous sulphur-colored cheiranthus; our

of the

own pink

polygonum

names perhaps
7najantheum

its

Patient

the effective rosy flowers

which has

Dock

is

or two-leaved

spike of bright pink petals.

is

fourteen

lily

the

of the valley, ex-

the plantago

Think

media,

of a plantain

Unlike our dull, beady blossoms, this

Here

a joy to behold.

is

a thrifty blue-branching

campanula; an ethereal morning-glory with

a rich blue salvia;

leaves;

English

the most pleasing

Canada May-flower;

being desirable!
variety

bistorta,

hi folium,

actly like our

with

ragged-robin

fine-cut silvery

a splendid violet vetch;

curious yellow bells of the cerinthe major, or

wax

plant

the
;

the

fragrant three-flowered laburnum, or cytisus triflorus; pink

meadow

rue and orchids;

the

yellow

lady's-slipper

in

abundance, the showy orchids and the delicate green habenaria orbiculata, an odd little nodding flower rising from its
whorl of leaves

like

the

pogonia

white cephalanthera, the wonderful

and, queerest of

all,

verticillata,

pink

the

dainty

military orchis,

the insect-like ophrys family,

spider-shaped, the bee-shaped, the fly-shaped.

the

They

are

most appropriately named.

Many are the hours I spend hunting new species every
inch of forest turf seems to hold a secret and invite explora;

tion.

One morning,

as

we

sit

above the Lake of Galovac,

deep pictures of the falls, and at our

strange wild flowers in such abundance and variety that

birch-trees framing
feet
I

despair of ever learning their names, I ask,

302

ji

LEAVING BOSNIA
"What do you
feet

see in this small bit of earth, say four

square?"

Lowering

his eyes

from the distant landscape,

panion concentrates his attention.

have been chopping wood here."
I

laugh outright!

had

"Well,

my comsee

men

n't noticed the chips.

"Anything else?"

"Nothing but weeds," he insists.

I stoop and pick half a dozen sprays
and green tiny orchids, and hold them up

"They

aren't pretty at

of exquisite

for his admiration.

They look

all.

brown

just like black

bugs crawling up the stem!" but that they are extraordinary he has to acknowledge.
Strangest of

grows the Conopholis Americana, or squaw-root, which I have never found

anywhere except in our native woods. Great birch-trees,
all,

in this far-off forest

three or four feet in diameter,

fallen

if

lie

prone where they have

in the water, they are soon covered with

a velvety

growth and gleam like silver beneath the surface. Ferns

in endless variety and beauty cover the ground and fringe the
cascades; the maidenhair quivers in the soft breezes; and
beside the rushing torrents, hang ivy and thick grasses.
Spruce-trees and hedges of
guerites

rather

bridal wreath, with mar-

and geraniums, adorn the grounds of the

startling

contrast

to

the

hotel, in

surrounding wilderness.

This building was put up by a club of Agram gentlemen who

take turns at managing it. The season has not yet begun,
a preoccupied bride and groom being the only other guests.

We know that the

Croatians are intensely patriotic and cling

303

MOTORING
tenaciously to their

THE BALKANS
but we are hardly
mother-tongue
IN

prepared for the extent to which they carry

room

the

notifications, the

it

All

here.

announcements, the time

tables,

the bill-of-fare, even, are printed in that Slavic language.

The

only bottled water obtainable

is

tagged with the, to us,

formidable cognomen, "Jamnicka Kiselica"; but

our Poland water and so thoroughly

like

steward

it

tastes

satisfies us.

The

the only person on the premises

is

who even

under-

German; the boatman, who ferries us across Lake

Kosjak, knows no language but Croatian, and when we
stands

wish to make excursions along the beach into pools where

water lilies grow, all explanations have to be by gestures.

The bath-houses
that

if

one wishes to swim in the open lake

dive

to

at the pier are built into the water, so

under

wooden

the

it

but

partition;

is

necessary

the

crystal

water looks very tempting, and

in the early morning a

and
merry shouts betray the presence of
frequent splash

appreciative souls.

Later on a gypsy
boiler,

not

at

all

fire

flamed upon the shore, and a huge

a romantic object,

but the gypsy women,

stood

in their brilliant

upon

it;

gowns, made a

dashing picture as they spread the clean white linen on the

bushes and young

Half in
melody,

my

trees.

dreams, one morning,

heard a haunting

just three or four phrases of a part song,

which came nearer, then slowly died away

In the evening again

in the distance.

heard the sweet refrain; and, looking

saw groups of men and women returning from the fields

with rakes and spades over their shoulders. Their bright
out,

304

LEAVING BOSNIA
yellow and white kerchiefs, and their red caps shone in the
last

rays of the low sun.

The chant was

not sad nor in a

minor key, but full of joy and cheer; and they walked with
zest and rapidity, not betraying the least fatigue after the
day's task. As one group passed, another took up the song,

each seeming to await a certain moment which to

so that over and over the harmonious tones blended
begin,
in

and parted and blended again.

305

CHAPTER XXIX
TO AGRAM AND MARBURG

TT

an exquisite day of sunshine and south wind when,

reluctantly, we leave the luminous Lakes of Plitvica;
is

leave the roaring falls and tumbling cascades, the birds and

wild

the

flowers,

forest,

glorious

and

turn our

faces

northward toward Agram.

Over rocky

hills

covered with a stunted growth of bushes,

passing the road to Saborski and taking the one to the right
for Dreznik,

we

Korana River on

follow the

the lakes to the sea.

The road

is

its

way from

very dusty, occa.sionally

sprinkled with fresh stone, and an endless line of horses and

oxen drawing empty wagons are upon it. Patient peasants

toil up the slopes carrying pails and barrels of water from the
for every field,

river;

and the Korana

is

however

steep,

is

carefully cultivated

the only source of irrigation.

church steeple in a small town before us indicates

Dreznik.

At times we ride

in the grateful

trees,

but as a rule the highway

beats

down upon

Near

it

is

shade of big

unprotected and the sun

unmercifully.

the cross-road

to

Rakovica shepherdesses with

upon us; a teamster

wearing an elaborate brass-studded belt and a sheepskin
coat over his white clothes salutes us awkwardly as we speed
fingers busily knitting smile gleefully

by.

magnificent linden sheltering a poor log house;

cemetery on a

hill,

with

many
306

curious

wooden

crosses;

TO AGRAM AND MARBURG

crested larks

and black and white wheatears are part

of the

changing scene.
At one of the scattered farmhouses beyond Rakovica,

swiftly

the peasants are having their breakfast out of doors, or say,

rather, their second meal;

break their
five

fast

for

it is

and they
wonder they have

half-past nine

No

with the rising sun.

Further on, amidst rocks and bracken,

meals a day!

alternating with grain fields, a wayside well surrounded

stone curbing

makes a background

the boys doff their red caps, the

for

by

a group of children;

little girls

bend from the

waist in a quaint curtsey.

"What

a charming picture!"

cries the Enthusiast.

Near-by are women with long-fringed dark bags hung,

knapsack fashion, from the belt across the back. Still
winding over
long bend,

hilltops

we come

we

enter Bredzovac, where,

to the

Korana River

into quite a stream, but retaining

color.

Here, again,

backs and

women

men

its

making a

now

again,

swollen

peculiar greenish-blue

with flattened barrels on their

with pails upon their heads are carrying

water from the stream two hundred

Passing through Slunji, with

its

feet

below.

ruined castle,

we

cross

the river at an island of picturesque mills, over foaming

cascades, and then

to Veljun.

down

the stream to the

The pink hawthorn

a foot high, but half unfolded.

in flower,

is

Fields of bluish barley and

green wheat just coming to a head

where oxen,

in

teams of

on the way
and the bracken
left

or acres of

brown earth

four, are at the plough;

monotonous landscape, but there

is

a rather

always a bird to watch,

a tree to name, a distant church spire to wonder about, or

307

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

an open-mouthed goat-herd to salute. The children up to

j&ve years of age wear but one garment.
The cart horses,
at sight of us, instantly take to the fields or the ditch, al-

though

not the

it is

dumb

animals

who

are afraid

it is

the

peasants behind them.

"Another family around the

Enthusiast;

the

literally

a "board," with a bowl in the

centre containing the food, and, beside

How
or

it

must simplify housekeeping not

wash a

dish!

As we

board," exclaims

festive

fly

a loaf of bread.

it,

have

to

to set

by the boys' school

a table

at Blagaj,

they swing their crimson caps with a concerted, spontane-

ous

yell,

and we respond with

Beyond Veljun, we
glimpses of a gypsy

coast

fluttering handkerchiefs.

down a

camp by

long straight

the wayside,

hill,

with

more elaborate

and yellow iris beside a brook. We

ICrnjak and the posts every few kilometers

crosses in a church yard,

are

bound

for

assure us that

framed

we

are drawing nearer.

in a small square

window

as

we

smiling face

is

stop to permit six

loaded wagons to go by.

"

Do

you

realize that

we have

n't seen

a single so-called

English sparrow in Croatia?" remarks the Enthusiast.

"No, I had n't," answers her companion.

"Do

you suppose

"

At that moment, from a big barnyard, a

same saucy creatures

fly

across our

only look at each other in mutual dismay.

filled

flock of those

and
path,

with buttercups and daisies; the

we can

But the ditches

meadows with

tall

nodding hare-bells and yellow iris; the scarlet poppies undulating in the wheat; the brook bordered with the American
308

TO AGRAM AND MARBURG

these gladden
Way-faring tree (viburnum alnijolium)
all

we pass Krnjak, and Karlovac (in German,

where we are to take luncheon, makes its appear-

our eyes until

Karlstadt),

ance on the sign-posts.

we come

Crossing an iron bridge over the Radonja River

to the

Korana

again, just beyond Tusilovic, where boys

splashing in a mill-pond
is

fill

us with envy; for the highway

bare and dusty, rough and shadeless, and the air fright-

where wild roses and pink

we have our first view of Karlovac,

Over a small

fully hot.

clover comfort us,

pass,

and a road thronged with gorgeously costumed peasants,

We simply crawl through the
for again it is a market day.
suburbs of Mostanje, Ubinja, and Rakovac into Karlovac;
for the streets are filled

goats,

and

cattle

back

with people driving sheep, pigs,

to the country.

In carts and on

apparently unmindful
the gayly dressed
about
intense heat of noonday, go

of the

natives,

their affairs.

stolidly

Some

of the

women

are decked with elaborate necklaces

of overlapping coins, others

breast -plate covered

foot,

wear a heart-shaped

sort

of

over with the coins, like spangles;

all

curious frames support the head-dresses;

the skirts are

embroidered in red or blue

and

ensemble

is

How
chamber

in the
this

the peace

crowded

and coolness

We

of

that

upper

the

landlord,

"has

are hoping for a change soon."

windows we watch the throng, and once

clutch frantically at my kodak as a more than

the shaded

or twice I

tout

hotel!

unusual heat," says

two weeks.

lasted for

the

striking.

grateful

"Yes,

From

most

cross-stitch,

309

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

usually picturesque group presents

but the heat

itself;

so terrible I really do not dare to venture out-doors.

we

rest until three o'clock

thirty-six miles

set out for

Here

Agram, only

away.
Oriental-looking shoe market, over the

the

Through

and then

is

broad Kulpa River, across the railroad, we take the first

road to the right. In the maze of animals, wagons, and people

we

are obliged to go very slowly

way

broad,

is

if

country charming.

and often

to stop;

somewhat rough, and the surrounding

More meadows extend

beside us,

with buttercups and clover, or poppies in the

if

a swamp,

't

yellow with velvet

is

but the

with camping gypsies.

iris;

A company

if

filled

fields of grain

a grove, brilliant

of geese hiss their dis-

approval with one accord, coming at us with outstretched

No

wings.

cowards, they!

Through Mrzljaki and Jazvaci and

lages in a prosperous plain,
to Krasic, the

Here

barsko.

cross,

beyond the

Kupcina River; and soon

is

a compactly

with a pretty park and

On

we

Petasse, small

many

leaving Jastrebarsko

built,

vil-

side road

after enter Jastre-

comfortable

little

town,

shops.

we descend

into a

woodsy

glen,

then out again on a broad, smooth road, passing through

the

hills.

The sky becomes

overcast

are rejoiced by a small shower,

yet not

enough

and near Klincaselo we

sufficient to lay the dust,

to spoil our view, for soon

we can

discern

the spires of Agram's cathedral, eighteen kilometers away.

Beyond Rakovpotok, at a cross-road, we keep to the right

through Stupink and Lucko, where the long well-sweeps
remind us of Italy,
and the rain ceases.

310

-^^

-1^

r floPIl

PEASANTS XEAR KARLOVAC

A BOSXIAX MILL

i
m

THE CHURCH Of

ST.

MARK, AGRAM

TO AGRAM AND MARBURG

The roads approaching

all

large cities are sure to be

worn and rough and this one is no exception but deep red
peonies bloom in cottage gardens the hedges are white with
;

and great sprays of wild roses intermingle

with the ivory flowers. Hurrying by Blato and Remetinec,
elder blossoms,

crossing the Save,

eigners call

We

we

are in Zagreb, or

Agram, as

for-

it.

are surprised to find here in the capital of Croatia

an attractive

city

with fine public buildings

a characteristic

market square, a shaded promenade in the upper town, and

a fine cathedral;
not to omit an excellent hotel, where all

the fruits of civilization are vastly appreciated, and where

we

feast

River.

on a special kind of sterlet, only found in the Save

While at luncheon one noon on the shaded terrace,

a postman approaches our table with a big automobile

well-wrapped, hung carelessly on

Leader a bit of paper asks if the
is

his

tire,

arm, and offering the

tire is for

him.

The

the one telegraphed for a few days ago.

Yes, this
bill

having
been paid, the obliging postman carries the heavy ring upstairs to our apartment and we again laud the convenience
of the parcels-post.

is

Probably one cause of the modern appearance of Agram

the earthquake of 1880, which partially destroyed the

city.

The upper town

retains

some

flavor of antiquity,

although the thirteenth century church of

roof of briUiant

tiles

outlining the

which appears to be new.

Near here

Governor, or Ban, of Croatia;

titles are!

arms
is

St.

Mark

has a

of the province,

the Palace of the

how interesting the old Slavic

In the Kapitel Stadt

3"

is

the Gothic Cathedral of

MOTORING
the

fifteenth

century, with two splendid

within the last ten years.

palace of

THE BALKANS

IN

the

archbishop,

Close by

is

with round

spires

restored

the fortress-like

towers on each

corner.

The Croatians

are especially proud of the educational

opportunities which are here offered to the student.

In-

stalled in elaborate buildings are the Francis Josef Univer-

chemical laboratory, a Natural History

sity, its

Agricultural Society, and the South Slavonian

Science

being

Museum, an

Academy

of

besides good preparatory schools the instruction

in all cases in Croatian.

even the performances in the

The

fine theatre,

native tongue and no other language

politically Croatia

is

shops, the street signs,

is

are

understood.

all

in the

Although

a province of Hungary the

at present

two peoples hate each other as only neighbors of

alien

races can.

to

There are usually enough country folk in the busy streets

give individuality to the town the women in full plaited
;

or short-banded skirts, with plenty of beads and gay headkerchiefs;

and the men!

the combination of wide, white,

fringed, short trousers above high boots, with a long apron,

embroidered sleeveless jacket, and tiny rimless black slouch

hat,

is

too absurd for words.

With a red umbrella under one arm, an embroidered

reticule slung over the shoulder, these peasants frequently

walk

all

night to the nearest market town.

Small wonder,

by the next night they succumb to the tempting

convivialities of the city, and seek the shelter of a convenient

perhaps,

if

ditch until able to continue their

312

homeward

jaunt.

We

Rl???"*

.I*

THE

-MARKE'i-PLACE, ACIRA.M

CROATIAN COUXTRVWOMEX

A CROAIIAX PEASANT

TO ACRAM AND MARBURG

saw many instances

of this failing

good-natured Croatian

is

and were

told that the

peculiarly prone to this form of

relaxation.
It is

very hot in

freshness in the air

Agram; even at night

and we are longing for

there

is

little

the north;

so

two days we leave the Croatian capital, and follow the

The road is good, although
valley of the Save to Samobor.

after

narrow and unshaded

the house roofs gay with fancy

tiles,

sometimes the date, occasionally the man's name, outhned

in

huge

pool a boy and a

them
our
are

for sale,

last

gypsies are en route and in a shallow

Many

letters.

girl

are gayly washing pigs,

perhaps,

for at

picturesque market.

snowy white, with

brilliant

Samobor

preparing

itself

we saw

Here the peasants' clothes

embroideries and kerchiefs

and beads!
Passing

Luc and Jazbina and Podvrk, we come

gana, and leaving Croatia, enter Styria.

to Bre-

Instantly the style

and the pretty costumes vanish. Here

the people wear ugly dark slinky calico gowns, and hideous
For
shapeless hats in place of the gay Croatian kerchiefs.
of house changes

nearly two months

now we have

seen only quaint and be-

coming costumes and the change

to the garb of so-called

civilization is a distinct shock.

The

is

road, however,

much

better,

beneath pines and

spruces by the river's brink, with an endless variety of wild

flowers;

it

ing spirits.

offers us

By

compensations and restores our droop-

the chdteau of

Reichselstein and cottages

variously decorated with stripes and crude drawings,

cross the Save at

Rann

we

and here another low chdteau, with

3^3

MOTORING
three round towers

THE BALKANS

IN

and vine-draped

our

jagade, attracts

admiration.

At Gurkfeldt,

one

long broad street of houses, shops,

and churches, we turn

valley of the Save again.
its

This

which

river,

long career serves as a boundary

Slavonia, and Bosnia,

rafts

of lumber,

Neustein
is

and follow the narrow

to the right

rises

is

here broad and

guided by

on a height

men

between

still,

on the

Croatia,

with picturesque

either end.

at

at the right

in the course of

left

Schloss
the

bank

clothed with fragrant woods, sprays of pink honeysuckle

clamber over hedges of elder and viburnum; apple orchards

alternate with clover fields and patches of flowering beans;

an adorable winding way, the sky overcast, the air

so heavenly cool.
On we go through a beech forest and an
it

is

avenue of luscious locust;

larches

beneath spruces and feathery

past Radua, stopping only to gather

flowers which border the river's brink

Hottemesch with

some

of the wild

then by Verhovo and

their thatched haystacks green with moss.

At Steinbruck, leaving the Save, we cross one of its

The Sann, too,
tributaries, the Sann, and follow it to CilH.
seems a favorite waterway for lumber rafts, as it flows
The
strong, swift, and deep, between high-wooded hills.
rich blue salvia in the fields reflects the

the fragrance of the locust

"This

is

is

hue

of heaven,

overpowering.

the kind of a road I like!" exclaims

Content, apropos of nothing new.

It is

Madame

a sort of glorified

cowpath, smooth and shady, wandering around the

hills,

or occasionally running

and

up

to the

door of a farmhouse;

passing tempting lanes into deep forests;

314

foot-

by open windows

TO AGRAM AND MARBURG

gay with brilliant flowers; and
and famous chestnut avenue

at last entering the stately

at

We

Romerbad.

gayly up the winding stream, noting with surprise

ornamented with large wooden

speed

haymows

others have

kind of pavilion in front, with a grape-vine trained over

it.

A white church with an

ly at

we

"onion"

crucifixes;

steeple stands conspicuous-

a bend in the road, and, across the

river,

on our

right,

see Tuffer's ruined castle.

How
resorts!

charmingly the Germans lay out their summer

Here

at Kaiser

Franz Josef Bad the high-clipped

locust hedges surround beautiful gardens;

marked

in the forest;

climb, the

and

Humberg (1920

if

one

is

many

paths are

ambitious for a steep

feet) is at one's disposal.

Soon, on a wooded height, appears a battle mented don-

gonkeep,

still

guarding a crumbling

castle.

It is the ruins

and crossing the Sann by a toll bridge, we

enter the town of Cilli.
Although this was one of the colonof Ober-Cilli,

ies

founded by the Emperor Claudius (A. D.

evidence of

its

great age.

antiquities, but its

river paths,

charm

Its

it

bears no

museum contains some Roman

lies in its

and mountain views.

under the shade of

54),

mammoth

beautiful environs,

Our luncheon

is

its

served

chestnuts flourishing in the

pebbly pavement and apparently enjoying the protection

by the walls of the two-storied courtyard.

At Cilli we leave the river Sann and go due north,

offered

through hop gardens watered by the Kotting brook, with

splendid views of the Steiner Alps still covered with snow.
It is

a comfort to have excellent roads again, and a respite

from constant sunshine!

315

MOTORING
"My

Baedeker has

I venture to reply

IN
lots

when

THE BALKANS

more
its

in

fat,

it

than yours, any way";

tied-up sides threaten to

way and cause contemptuous mirth among

members of the party.

give

the other

"Such a looking book!" jeers Madame Content.

"Why do you carry it?" demands the Leader.
"For a herbarium,"

frankly reply;

and the conver-

sation ends.

At Hohenegg a range of dark blue hills encloses the wide

valley on the north, and we turn to the right over a broad,
but

not

dusty

highway,

bound

Gonobitz.

for

Passing

Castle Sternstein on an adjacent peak, the road bordered

with apple-trees, winds through the

rippling brook.

near green

forest,

following

Flying through a more open valley, the

hills swiftly

become blue

in the distance

beyond

Tepanje heavy clouds throw purple shadows on forest -clad

heights, where a white church lifts its slender spire.

We

charming landscapes from each new hilltop

Preloge and Windisch-Feistritz. How familiar

get

between

the fringed pinks in the cottage garden,

the windows are

gay with flowers, geraniums and fuchsias, marguerites and

cacti, even oleanders in the bays.

We

have come out of the clouds, here, and the sun

shining

over the wide valley as

through

Wochau

with

its

we

is

pass Kotsch, hurry

magnificent avenue of old lindens,

and enter
peak of St. Urban,
Marburg through a double row of Lombardy poplars.

beneath

the

isolated

316

CHAPTER XXX
MARBURG GRATZ THE SEMMERING
""^JOW

that

we have

entered a country where there

is

choice of roads, the Leader spends even more time

poring over

maps and hunting

for sights

worth seeing along

Sometimes he asks poHtely: ** Where shall we

hoping that some inspiration may suggest
stop to-night ?"
the most interesting spot en route.
Once the Gentle Lady
the way.

answered from her heart:

''I

think

it

would be

real nice

if

you could find a little inn by a small river with trees all about
it; a clean, quiet place, where there will be no one but ourselves and, of course,

good things to eat."

n't
must
"They
keep chickens, for they are so noisy
"
the morning," added the Enthusiast, "and

in

"I suppose the inn must be in a garden, away from the

dusty highroad, and no waterfalls must disturb the peace!"
sarcastically interrupted the Leader.

"And

the

windows must have heavy curtains

to

shut

out the morning glare," went on placidly the Gentle Lady,

half seriously.

"Well,

think

we

shall be far

more apt

to encounter

my

ideal than yours," said the Leader, in a tone of finality.

"What we

really

want

is

a great

cathedral,

a splendid

chdteau, an historic ruin, a mediaeval building, a

what matters the rest?"

painting;
"But to-morrow

night

we
317

will

famous

be up in the mountains,

MOTORING
won't

wc?" asked

his

THE BALKANS

IN

companion, with an

air of putting

aside all those earthly glories.

wc

''Yes, but I think

And

was a twinkle

there

told of ''sights" to

Church

bells

will stop at

Gratz

luncheon."

for

in his eye which, to the initiated,

be seen.

woke me

early the next morning, then the

sound of moving footsteps on the flagged streets, and rushing to the window I witnessed a bit of mediaeval life, very

charming in this prosaic age. For over an hour, long files

of men and women, priests and nuns, schoolboys and girls,
bearing banners of varying degrees of size and beauty,

marched slowly through the

streets of

Marburg, chanting

in unison.

"What
"It
is

is

is

it?" I asked the

little

a procession," she gravely responded.

Monday, they

will

be going on

"But why?" I persisted.

"
It is the month of Mary."
at

maid.

my ignorant questionings.
On the broad river Drau,

roofs in the midst of

all this

And

"To-day

week."

she looked her surprise

or Drave, rise Marburg's red

waving green

for its

wide avenues are

planted with chestnuts in quadruple rows and each tiny

walled garden overflows with vines and shrubs.

market-place retains
Stadt-Park, with

seems a

its

charm

The

quaint

and the newly laid-out

flowery meadows and shaded lanes,

its

bit of the real

of age

country preserved for the

Over a smooth highway,

lined

city's use.

with apple-trees

and

bordered by vineyards alternating with clover fields, orchards,

and hop plantations, we bowl gayly northward.

318

growth

THE

ILICA, AC.RA.M

A CROATIAN' HARNESS

THE PROCESSION'

MARBURG

MARBURG-GRATZ
of

low

forest trees covers the

young

houses with broad thatched or

The temperature

shade.

so

is

where neat plaster

roofs peep from the

hills,

tiled

perfect,

sunshine

but cool

that once

more we have donned our coats and

waterproof dusters.

Near Strichowetz we meet an immense

air,

load of broom-corn tied for the factory.

The

shrines are

very beautiful on this highway; one of faded pink stucco

is

shaded by rosy hawthorn branches; another twined with

wild roses and clamboring honeysuckle.

Crossing the Mur, we stop to kodak an attractive seventeenth century chateau, with an adjacent chapel, and get

our

view of the Schwanberg Alps.

first

resist culling

an armful of wild

purple
ant;

a kind of branching dandelion

twelve to twenty inches high

osa;

all

sprinkled through

But the smooth

soft air.

abund-

flowers, they are so

larkspur and buttercups, yellow and white

wild carrots and

daisies,

It is difhcult to

a pinkish and lavender scabi-

tall

grasses and nodding in the

straight road

is

too attractive, the

motion too enticing.

the

Mur

and

along,
this

Speeding through Kleinwagna, across

again, with only a glance at Leibnitz, we hurry

we

to

our surprise, meet an automobile!

are totally unaccustomed and

gust, until

"On

its trail

esting

this plain

once stood the

many fragments and

in dis-

of dust shall have passed!

Solvense," remarks the Leader.

found

we slow down

To

Roman

city,

Flavium

"Near Leibnitz they have

inscriptions.

It

might be

inter-

"

But our persistent silence puts a damper upon this suggestion and we proceed up the valley of the Mur, climb
319

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

over a small ridge, and descend to the

Wildon.
the

Up

its

one steep

Kainach River; the

women

are

inscribed so all
iches

Heim,"

them stand

The

spading.

in

we mount,

street

hills

summer

resort of

recede and in the fields

cottages have

down

sliding

to

men and

quaint legends

may read, "Gemiitliches Heim," "Frolon the gables, and near

large
letters

tall poles,

each topped with a bush or a tree or a

honor of the Kaiser's jubilee;

On one house is a tablet:
or only the usual May-poles?

banner.

Are these

last

in

F.

J.

S.

1879
I.

H.

S.

show goes by us the camel looks his accustomed weary self and quite disdains our noisy flight; the
monkeys make faces and chatter from their cage; but evitravelling

dently the entire

company

are quite used to automobiles.

White clouds are gathering about the horizon and snow

can be seen on the Schwanberg Alps. By Rattsdorf and

Ledern we crawl carefully along, as the valley is so thickly

populated as to form an almost continuous village. The
road has become rough and

muddy and we meet companies

on the way to field -practice; for Gratz

It
St)Tia and has a garrison of 5100 men.

of artillery

is

the cap-

ital of

is

a cheer-

ful

and

attractive

little

city

might be
it has enough "sights" to

on the Mur, and

interest

am

sure one

"Hotel Elephant";

very comfortable in its

also

a traveller for three days,

at least.

But we were not

sightseers that day;

joined the ranks of motorists only;

320

we had

frankly

and we refused

to be

MARBURG GR AT Z
beguiled into

museums and

The

"wonderful views."

for

art galleries, or led to heights

where we had our luncheon

the Leader, indefatigable

shelter of the
satisfied

and

shady terrace

us completely; only

untiring,

went bravely forth

and "did" the town.

On his return he was genuinely enthusiastic and reported,

besides an excellent

modern

city hall

and museum, a

six-

teenth century building called a Landhaus, or Hall of the

Estates, with a beautiful Renaissance jagade.
this is the Arsenal, or

as

was

it

at that time

Zeughaus,

and

filled

In the Imperial Palace there

done

in 1500,

Italian

work

and

is

a curious spiral staircase,

in the cathedral, six exquisite ivory reliefs,

T Trionfi.'"

the Leader paused to take breath,

suggested stopping over.

one in the

with \/eapons of the period.

of the sixteenth century, representing scenes

from Petrarch's

When

"Adjoining

built in 1644, kept exactly

"There

Museum Joanneum

are

two

we almost

libraries, also,

of about 140,000 volumes,

including a collection of rare books; the other in the University, of 190,000

versity,

volumes.

Besides the Karl Franz Uni-

with 1750 students, there

is

a Technical College;

and Industrial Museums are old Styrian

rooms, completely furnished, of 1564, 1577, 1596, and 1607,
with the travelling carriage of Emperor Frederic III. and
and

in the Historical

the double
his wife.

Spethan Bathory, King of Poland, and

You know he died in 1586. In another part
litter of

of the building

is

a very good exhibition of modern Styrian

art industries."

By this

time

we were

speechless with regret.

321

"

From

the

MOTORING
Schlossberg the view
tions,

is

THE BALKANS

IN

superb and the crumbling

fortifica-

overgrown with wild flowers, extremely picturesque.

Constructed in the fifteenth century as a protection against

blown up by the French in 1809, after

hundred Austrians had defended the place

the Turks, they were

a garrison of

five

against three thousand French for four weeks."

"I read

"You

that in Baedeker," interrupted the Enthusiast.

can see the enormous clock-dial on the

hill,

as

we

go out," continued the Leader, contenting himself with a

reproachful glance at the scoffer, "but we must come back

some day, and enjoy

"Yes, some day, when it

leisurely its fine collections."

to Gratz,

is

Madame

cool," assented

Content.

"Now
ast, as

we

for the

mountains!" quoth,

leave Gratz,

due north we go,

fifth of

bound

are raking

tassels of curled shavings

Semmering. Almost
where, on this twenty-

for the

close to the river,

May, women

gleefully, the Enthusi-

hay

in

sunny

hang over the doors

inns; a curious survival of the "bush."

we
lies

fields.

Long

of the country

Crossing the Mur,

enter a narrower valley, where an excellent bicycle path

under the

apple-trees.

We

meet

fine big draft horses

in elaborate harness, with long strips of bright cloth, orna-

mented with brass

Beyond Peggau

insertions,

the road

hanging from the

is

collar.

rutty and stony;

very bad,

the castle of Rabenstein, on the other side of the river,

dreary, common-place building.
of Pfannberg, rising

Not

so,

We

forest,

with

its

enter Frohnleiten

through a beautiful avenue of chestnuts and find

322

however, the ruins

from the depths of the

square tower and octagonal donjon.

is

it

a charm-

if^

-^M

AT THE SEMMERIXG

MARBURG GRATZ
ing

little

with well-laid-out paths up the forest-clad

resort,

Beyond, the air is sweet with spruce, gray crags rise

into the blue sky, and snow appears upon a farther height.
Closer and closer grow the cliffs and the precipice of Rothelhills.

stein

looms on our

right.

After passing Mixnitz

we look

curiously for "the

Amer-

and discern a comfortable square house,

ican's chateau,''^

with sunny terraces, inviting woods, and, doubtless, beautiful

views

down

the winding valley of the

Above Pernegg
slopes shut us in

the

Mur.

overlapping folds of the wooded

the clasping fingers of the clematis reach

up from the tangled hedges; nearer and nearer come the

snow mountains. At Bruck we note a fifteenth century
Gothic church and the open loggia of the old ducal palace,
built in 1505

and

called the

Here we cross the

of the Miirz.

Kornmesser-Haus.

Mur and

leave

it,

ascending the valley

Through Kapfenburg, where a wonderful

pink May is trained over a high gate; by Hafendorf, where

the road improves, as there is less heavy teaming; and on

Marein through a wider valley. Quantities of wild

barberry, mountain ash, and pear trees are in blossom;
to St.

houses are scattered over the slopes;

through the long,

broad, treeless street of Kindberg; through Wartberg, with

the ruins of Lichtenegg Castle on a

we come

hill

across the Miirz;

to Schloss Pichl's towers quite near the river's

brink.

We
find at

Gratz

have climbed so gradually that we are surprised to

Mittendorf we are already 1935 feet above the sea.
is

11 35 feet

and Marburg 880

323

feet.

The

valley

is

MOTORING
still

THE BALKANS

IN

broad, enclosed by pointed, pine-covered

hills,

constant succession of villages enlivens the way.

and a

Queer

mountain side among the spruces

upon
show where barkless telegraph poles lie ready to slide down

yellow streaks

the

to the river for transportation.

We

pass Langenwang, with the ruined castle of Hohen-

wang on our right.

At Miirzzuschlag the white lilacs vie with

the horse chestnuts for our admiration, and after passing
Spital-Rettenegg we enter the region of apple blossoms

The

again.

the railroad

station of Steinhaus lies

and begin the

The

Semmering.

air is really cold,

the hillside; but the road

is

patches of snow whiten

excellent, with carefully pre-

pared grades, until we make one

the

below us as we leave

climb to the summit of the

final

last steep

Hotel Panhans at the top of the

(3520

Do

Semmering Pass

feet).

the mountains really bring one nearer Heaven, or

do they only seem

Do

to ?

the birds' songs sound sweeter,

are the trees a brighter green,

gayly,

turn and reach

and

ining?

As

flowers

nod more

more heavily laden with the delicious

the balsam and the fir, or is all this mere imag-

is

fragrance of

do the wild

the air

I lean

from

wonderful prospect,

Far

my

balcony and look over this

cannot

help asking myself these

below the piled-up thundercaps, I can just distinguish a winding stream amid low
that way lies Vienna and our morrow's
grassy hillocks;
questions.

in the distance,

journeyings.

If

one could but leap from mountain top to

mountain top and

"Do

live

always upon the heights!

you remember our uncertainty about enjoying

324

MARBURG-GRATZ
Dalmatia?" asked the Gentle Lady that evening, as she
idly turned the leaves of her illustrated diary.

"Indeed,

remember

"and how mention

well," confirmed the Enthusiast,

of the Herzegovina

and Bosnia brought

only visions of bandits and rocky fastnesses!

it

only about

is

six

"Just think,

weeks, to be exact, 46 days, since we

Trieste"

left

"And we have gone

2253 kilometers, or 1408 miles,"

added the Leader looking up from

his notebook,

"and have

stopped in 35 towns."

"As you look back what pictur-^ comes

mind?" persisted the Gentle Inquisitor.
"I don't know," answered
Friday at Zara,

first

to your

the Enthusiast, "that

Good

nothing could be more brilliant

I fancied,

than the mass of the Morlacchi, but think of the Montenegrin uniforms at Cetinje!"

"And

Mostar," she prompted, "when the Herzegovin-

ians in their soft white veils

and creamy costumes

floated

over the ancient bridge!"

"And

Jajce," I continued, "at the Franciscan church,

what variety and richness of garments on both men and

women!

And

so

was the crowning

fold the
cities,

first

How

scene.

If

of

them!

Perhaps that

a person should come blind-

whole distance from America, and see but these four

he ought to

"Are you
have

many hundreds

feel richly

repaid for his trouble!"

forgetting the

extraordinary landscapes

we

Her Ladyship. "That

sunset over Dalmatia, from the Velebit Mountains?
looked

upon?"

corrected

about the Riviera of Ragusa and the Bocche

325

Surely

MOTORING

THE BALKANS

IN

Lovcen

Montenegro has not slipped

from your memory, or the Prenj Alps from the Ivan Pass

that climb over the

just the other day, or

"

Stop, stop," I cry

into

"
"
;

no one

of

them have

many, many more. It is as impossible

and scenery as a portrait and landscape
is

filled

to

I forgotten,

compare people

in art.

My

At the word Trebinje,

with pictures.

nor

brain

see

trousered Turkish schoolgirls flying in every direction at the

sight of

my kodak

the

to a hot bazaar;

the

way

splendid

strange canopied tombs on

a lovely garden and
Jablanica,

Travnik,

Turk who made and brought our

coffee;

snow mountains, seen through an atmosphere

Gacko,
of onions; Mostar, novel and varied costumes on
fragrant woods and moonlight,
pretty women;
with many nightingales; Jajce, more nightingales above
Ilidze,

a roaring river."

We

look at each other with the keen appreciation of

kindred souls in a reminiscent mood.

Each

fascinating

scene, each happy day has a special corner in our memories,

and with the utmost

satisfaction

we

recall the interesting

experiences, the wonderful scenery, the picturesque people

which have made

this

motor

trip in the

western Balkans

over the highways of Dalmatia and Montenegro, the Herzegovina, and Bosnia one continuous delight.

The End

326

INDEX

INDEX
Bosnia and the Herzegovina annexed to, 225; improvements under
rule of, 226, 260; Gratz defended by,
322
Austria, Hotel, Metkovic, 136
Austrian admiralty, 105
Austrian Automobile Club run, 235-

Abbadessa (or Gomilica), Castel, 103

Abbazia, 28, 31-34, 38
Adriatic Sea, 24, 25, 28, 138, 145, IQ7,
198, 258
Aginoselo, 286

Agram,

39, 295, 301, 303, 306, 310-313

Agram

Hotel (Hotel Zagreb), Zengg,

45. 47
Alban Hills, 20
Albania, 77, 129, 166, 200, 209, 228
Albanian Alps, 209
Albanian Colony, 77
Albanian costume, 202
Albion, leader of the Lombards, 30
Almissa, 128
Almissa, bay of, 126
Almissan corsairs, 126
Alpine chalets, houses which resemble,

258
America, what
54, 131, 219

it

means

21

124,
190,
296,

Begovich,

Andreis, Castel, 103

of,

on meeting motor

car, 30, 49, 51, 56, 58, 62, 84,

125,
191,

127,

134,

195,

196,

177,
198,

179,
287,

180,
293,

308, 320
Antivari, 204

Apennines, the, 21
Apothecary shop
Ragusa, 150

Mehmed, pasha

of Albania,

Belgrad (Zara Vecchia), 93

founded

in

1307,

of Diocletian, 116, 120

Aquileia, 21, 73, 76, 172
Arbe, island of, 34, 50, 78

Area in San Simeone, Zara, 71

"Argosy," derivation of, 168
Arione (Ombla) River, 143
Asseria, ruins of, 82
Assumption, feast of the, celebration
187

Aurea, Porta, Spalato, 104

Austria, war between Venice and, 48;

Zara under rule of, 74; Clissa under

rule of, 119; Dalmatia province of,
160;

Beaumont, Marshal, 129

77

Aqueduct

of,

Baccari (Bakar), 40
Badua, 196
Baedeker's guide, 21, 82, 183
Bakar, 40
Baljevac, 299
Balkan Provinces future "happy hunt-

Baptistery, Spalato, iii, 112

Barbaric customs, survival of, 140
Bargello, Florence, 102
Bavo, see Bua, island of

American's chateau, near Mixnitz, 323

Animals, conduct

B
Babindub, 64

ing grounds of the motorist," 27

Bands, military, Ragusa, 175, 176
Banja, 127
Banjaluka, 285-291

to natives, 42,

American roads, 160

American ships in Trieste harbor,

238, 293
Austrian city, Trieste an, 21
Avars, the, 30, 85, 117, 179
Avtovac, 231

Ragusa Republic and,

168, 169;

Belgrade, 285
"Belle Vista," Gravosa, 144
Bells rung at unusual hours, 108
Benedictine abbey of San Giorgio, 193
Benedictine refuge, Bua, 102
Benkovac, 20, 81, 82
Berlin, treaty of, 204
Biagio, St., patron saint of Ragusa, 149,

152
Biba, 81
Bihac, 295-298
Bilek, 227, 229
Biljane, 80
Biljardo, old palace, Cetinje, 203
Birds, fearless, 25, 26, 32

Bjelalovac, 269
Bjelasnica, mountain range of, 256

329

INDEX
Black Mountains, 204, 211
Black Sea, 258
"Black Wallachs" ("Mauro Vlach")
the Morlacchi, 68

Blagaj, 239, 241, 308

Blaise, St., see Biagio, St.

Blancard, General, 129

Blato, 311
Boa, see Bua, island of
Bocae, castle of, 286

Bocche

27, 168, 171, 172,

174, 178, 180, 181, 184, 187, 198, 212,
215, 216, 218, 219, 326

traditions,

251,

Brooms made from spiky smilax,

Bruck, 323
Bua, i.sland of, 102, 119
"Bua, milk of," etc., 104
Buccari, Bay of, 40

Buffaloes, 291, 292

Bulgaria, Uscocs driven from, 48
Bulic, Professor, 116

Buljan, Restaurant, 84-86

Buna, source of the, 239, 240

Burdens borne by women,

252, 261, 273

29, 3^, 42,

43. 47. 166, 199, 307
"Bush," survival of custom of the, 322

Bokhara, 285
Bootjacks on chairs, 35, 36

Business methods contrasted, 266, 267

Busovaca, 270
Byzantines at Zara, 73

Boraja, the, 95
Borak, Mt., 126

Borgo Erizzo,

Bristol, Hotel, Zara, 65

Bucharest, 285

di Cattaro,

Bogomile stones and

Bribir, counts of, 83

Bribir, Ponte de, 83

77, 81

Borovoci-Novasela, 135

Bosna River, 259,

Bosna Valley, 259

263, 267

Bosnia, no road maps of, 27; Uscocs

driven from, 48; Dinarian Alps on
boundary of, 61; Zara under, 74; costumes of, 107, 300; Clissa under, 119;
Narenta River a highway from, 138;
natives of, settled on Mt. Sergio, 148;
early kings of, 181, 271; under Turkish rule, 224; annexed to Austria, 225 ;

under Austrian rule, 226; roads of,

226, 269; Bogomiles in, 252; frontier
of, 256, 258; one of most heavily
timbered countries in Europe, 259;
mills of, 270; tombs of viziers of,
272; one-time chief city of, 272; last
Save River on boundking of, 283
ary of, 314
Bosnisch-Novi, 294, 295
Botticelle, Punta di, 105
Bradina, 257
Bransevina, 49
Bravacic, Villa, 161
Brazza, Canale della, 108
Brazza, island of, 100, 119, 124
Brdjani, 257
Bredzovac, 307
Bregana, 313
Brekozica, 297
Brela, Mt., 127, 128
Breno, 178
Breno, cascades and mill of, 178, 220
Breno, Valle di, 177-179, 222
Breslovsko, 269
Brezicani, 293
Bribir, 83
;

Cagli, 21
Cairo, 225, 248

Cambio

or Kambelovac, Caste!, 103

Camera, posing before the, 87

Camerlengo, Castel, Bua, 102

Canali, Val, 220

Cannosa (Tristeno), 142

Capital punishment in Ragusa, 169
Capodistria, 21, 28
Carita, Porta della, Ragusa, 151
Carlopago, 47
Carob beans, 114
Cashmere, Vale of, 209
Cassis in road, 48
Cassone, Monte, 193
"Castelli, wine of the," etc., 103, 104
Castelnuovo, 29, 103, 171-174, 181-183,
196, 217, 218, 239
Castua, 31
Catacombs, Jajce, 282
Cathedral, Agram, 310-312
"
Sebenico, 91, 93, 94,151
"
Spalato, 110-112
"

Trail, loi

Zara, 68, 70, 71, 89

Cattaro, 172, 173, 188, 191-196, 203,
212, 213, 252
Cattaro, Bishop of, summer residence
of, 187
Cattaro, Gulf of, 193, 196, 213, 214
Cega, Castel, 103
Cernica, fort of, 230
Cetina River and Falls, 126-128

330

INDEX
Cetinje, 171, 188, 189, 200-203, 205209, 211, 219, 325
Charles Robert, King of Hungary, 83

frontier of, 295 ; patriotism in, 303

capital of, 311, 313; educational institutions in, 312; a Hungarian prov;

Charles V., 169

Cherso, island of, 31, 49
Chimiez, in the Riviera, 19
Chioggia, 22, 74, 78
Choir stalls of mediaeval churches, 102,

312; Save River on boundary

314
Croatian Alps, 32
Crown Prince of Montenegro, 172, 202-

no. III
Christian village house, type of, 259
"Christ's^Thorn," 213
Cikalovac, 291

Cyprus, custom of wearing prayer

ince,

of,

205, 207, 208, 211

Cyprus, war between Venice and,

Cilipi, 180

Dabar, 51

Cisasitch, 51
Civita Castellana, fortress of, 21

founded by,

Cilli

315
Clissa, 48, 119
Clissa, fortress of,

116,

118,

122,

124

Colors, intensity of, 67

Comacines,

71

314, 315
Ciovo, see Bua, island of
Cippico, Cariolanus, 103
Cilli,

Claudius, Emperor,

in,

284

the, 112

Communale

Palazzo, Traii, loi, 102

Conscription at Banjaluka, 288, 289
Consonants, curious combinations of,
in Slavic names, 84
Constantinople, 225
Constantinovich, Count, of Servia, 203
Cori, 20
Cornelio, Archbishop Andrea, 1 1 2
Cornice, comparison with the, 43, 142
Corso, Ragusa, 153

Dalmate, II, Zara, 77

Dalmatia, suggestion in name of, 17,
location of, 18; maps and roads of, 18,
27; few railroads in, 18; desirable
season to travel in, 18; books on, 20,
88; languages spoken in, 20, 76, 77,
121; loutes to, 20, 21, 47, 63; dress
of natives of, 23, 248; motor travelling
in,
27; coast of, 32; distance of
frontier of, from Gospic, 58; over the
frontier of, 58-61, 63; northwestern
peninsula of, 61; natives' attitude of
apology for their frightened animals
in, 62; the Morlacchi in, 68; finest
facade in, 71; religious observances
in, 71; finest choir stalls in, 72;
capital of, 73; comfortable accom-

modations

in,

75;

much

and perplex stranger

to surprise

in, 76;

extremes

34,
51. 53. 56, 66, 68-70, 85, 90, 99, 100,
106, 137, 140, 141, 147, 156, 157,
166, 177, 178, 198, 20I, 202, 206,
226, 228, 229, 235, 242, 243, 246,
247, 249, 250, 260, 265, 266, 277,
283, 284, 287-290, 296, 299, 300, 306,

of civilization in, 76; newspapers of,

77; Zara only Italian municipality in,
77; Baedeker's guide to, 82; ruler of
(in 1247), 83; arts and sciences (sixteenth century) in, 93; no wild animals in, 97 work of native architects
in, 102; Salona ancient Roman cap-

308,309,312,313 325

ital of,

Costumes, native,

23,

30,

31,

t,t

Cottage legends, 320

Cozin, 296
Crkvenica, 20, 41, 42
Croat document, oldest, 103
Croatia, no road maps of, 27; mountains
and lakes of, 2q, 301; roads into, 31,
39, 129; roads of, 32; favorite resort
of, 41; the Karst in, 44; characteristic cap of, 47, 51, 299; typical farmhouses of, 50; English language
unknown in, 53; pass between Dalmatia and, 59, 60; Zara under rule
of, 74; boats from, in Zara harbor,

under Count of

104, 117; Spalato largest city

105; early Illyrian occupation of,
107; excitable nature of natives of,
108; native boats in, 108; Emperor
Diocletian a native of, 109; Italian
influence in, 121; Marshal Beaumont
in,

Creches, Italian, 22

74, 78;

Bribir, 83;

33^

commander under Napoleon

in,

129;

has but one dimension, 130; frontier

between the Herzegovina and, 134,
i37> 139; under Venetian rule, 137,
167; Narona one of three capitals of,
138; characteristic cap of, 140; individual life in towns of, 159; political
situation of, 160; nomenclature of
natives of, 160; under Austrian rule,
160, 169; appearance of, from coast

INDEX
and

i6o; timber cut from,

interior,

Elizabeth, Queen of
Emilia, Via, 21
Empoli, 20

167; forestry plans of government of,

167; bay or gulf called Valle in, 179;
rivulets unusual in, i8o; part of, once
held by Spain, 181
mountains of,
188; Adriatic seaport of, 196; route

(1377), 71

England, maritime

rival of Ragusa, 169

English language, use of, 20, 53
English ships in Trieste harbor, 21
English tongue unknown in Croatia, 53
Enterprising photographer of Sebe-

between Montenegro and, 204, 211;

prettiest valley in, 222; character of
country in upper, 223; safety of

nico, 90
Epidaurus Sea, 220
Epidaurus (Zara Vecchia), 172
Erizzo, Count, 77

property in, 225; differences between

the Herzegovina, Montenegro, and,
254; appreciation of, 325, 326
"Dalraatia, Guide to," Petermann, 20
Danilo II., of Montenegro, 203
Delia Robbias of Empoli, 20
Dinara, Mt., 126
Dinarian Alps, 61, 87, 100, 128
Diocletian, 109. iii
Diocletian's aqueduct, see under

Hungary

Erzegnovi (Castel nuovo), 181

Esculapius, Baptistery originally dedicated to, III

Eugene, Viceroy of

Italy, 129

European aspect replacing

under Austrian rule, 260

Asiatic

"F.

moun-

Aque-

duct
Diocletian's Palace, Spalato, 105, 109III, 113, 117, 122
"Distances measured by time," 32
Djett bishop, 252

J. I.,"

Farasina. Canale

Dobrota, 172
Dogonovci, 275
Dolac, 270
Dolce Grj, native dessert, 85
Dolmali, 40
Dolomite formation near Grabovica,

di,

31

Ferdinand of Austria, 48
Figures

common to various languages,55

Fiume, 31, 38, 39

Flavium Solvense,

Roman

City,

319

253

Fojnica, 237
Fojnica River, 269
Foligno, 19
Forestry plans of Dalmatian government, 167
Fossa, Zara, 78
Fracasso, Francisco, tablet to honor of,

Dominican monastery, Lacroma, 157

Dominican monastery, Ragusa, 154
Draga, 39
Dragazzo, Castel, 103
Dragotinja, 293

60

Dragu, 39

Drau (Drave), River, 318

Drenovo Pass, 296

France, Republic of Poljica seized by,

125
Francis Josef University, Agram, 312
Franciscan church, Jajce, 282, 283,

Drezanjka River, 253

Dreznik, 306

285, 325
Franciscan church, Mostar, 248, 249
Franciscan cloister, Ragusa, 150
Franciscan Farmacia, apothecary shop
founded in 1307, Ragusa, 150
Franciscan monastery, Bua, 102
Frangipani, the 40, 41, 43, 48

Drijen, defile of, 223

Drin River, 172

Duare, 128

Dubac, 222
Dubrovnik (Ragusa), 167
Dulcigno, 204

Duomo, Pisa, 70
Duomo, Ragusa,

Franks

at Zara, 73
Frederic III., Emperor, 321
French highways, 19, 103, 160

149, 151, 152

Durazzo, 172
Dusina, 134

French

in Clissa, 119;
in Zara, 74

E
Earthquakes

outlined in stones on

tain slope, 227

at

in Gratz, 322;

French occupation of Ragusa, 169

French ships in Trieste harbor, 21
Frohnleiten, 322
Funeral, Ragusa, 165

Ragusa, 169

Educational institutions of Agram, 312

Elephant, Hotel, Gratz, 320

332

INDEX
H
Gabiniana, Via, ii8
Gacka River, 54
Gacko, 225, 226, 230-237, 268, 326
Gacko, plain of, 227, 230
Galovac, Lake of, 302

Hadzici, sawmills
Hafendorf, 323

Harem,

"Game"
Game on
Games,

German

birds in Italy, 26
Narenta River, 135
children's, 242
colonists near Kozorac, Bos-

278, 279
Harness, native, 116, 227
Henderson, Major, quoted, 247
Henna-stained hair, 249
Herzegovina, the, no road maps to,

language, use

of,

20, 77, 121,

256, 266

German occupation of Zengg, 48

German summer resorts, 315

nexed to Austria, 225; under Austrian

rule, 226; roads in, 226; Bogomiles
in, 252; different f rom Dalmatia and
Montenegro, 254

Giardino Pubblico, Zara, 74

Gionchetto, 168
Girls of Ragusa, 154
Giupana, height of, 141
Glogosnica, valley of, 253

Hodiije, 139

Gold-thread work done by Turkish

women, 279
Goles station, 274
Gomilica, Castel, see Abbadessa, Castel
Gonobitz, 316
Good Friday celebration, Zara, 66, 71,
78, 155, 325
Gorazda, Fort, 196, 213

Hohenegg, 316
castle of, 324
Hohlbach's, Mrs., book on Dalmatia, 20
Holland, maritime rival of Ragusa, 169

Hohenwang,

Holy Thursday celebration, 57

conduct before motor car,

Horses,

30,
49. 5I' 56, 58, 62, 84, 177, 179, 180,
190, 191, 195, 196, 198, 287, 293, 296,

Gorizia, Counts of, 31

308

Gospic, 47, 55-58, 300

Government hotels, Gacko, Mostar,

and Ilidze, 268
Government trout-breeding establishment, 267

Grabok Saddle,

238, 240
Grabovac, 128
Grabovica, 253
Grahovo, battle of, 210
Gran Kapella range of Croatian moun-

Hotel de la Ville, Sebenico, 88, 89, 91

Hottemesch, 314
Hrusica, 30
Hrvoja, after whom market-place tower,
Spalato, is named, 282

Hum,

243

315
Hungarian Lloyd steamer, 77, 78
the,

Hungary, seaport

commerce

74;

and, 167;

tains, 29

Grobnica, plain of, 80

Gromeljak, 269
Gruda, 180
"Griinen Strand," Zelenika, 217
Gualdo Tadino, 21
Gurkfeldt, 314
Giisla, 249
"GiUen Tag," an overworked salutation, 35
Guvina, Messer Andrea, no, in

hills of, 238,

Humberg,

Grand Canon, comparison with, 255

Grand Hotel Bellevue, Spalato, 104, 105
Gratz, 318, 320-323
Gravosa, 142-144, 146, 161
"Great Defile," 253
engineer, 129
Grljic,

27;,

routes into, 129, 138; mountains of,

134; under Turkish rule, 137, 224;
costumes of, 139,
i55,_J_57, 260, 325;
source of the Trebinjcica River in,
harnesses
in, 176; capital
143; gay
of, 181, 244; derivation of name of,
181; frontier of, 223, 256, 258; an-

nia, 292

German

259

of,

visit to a,

168, 170;

Icici,

39; Zara and,

between
Ragusa

of,

relations of

Ragusa and,

Croatia a province

of,

312

32

Igalo, cemetery of, 181

Igman Planina, Mt., 258, 259, 267, 269
Ika, 32
Ilidze, 259, 266-268, 326
Illuminated waterfall near Jajce, 281
Illyrians, 73, 107
Illyricum, ancient, 85
Imotski, 129
Imperial Hotel, Ragusa, 144
Imperial Palace, Gratz, 321

333

INDEX
India, custom of wearing betelnut

in,

Inscriptions on cottages, 320

Istria,

peninsula

of, 27, 28,

68

Italian art influence in Dalmatia, 102

Italian city of Zara, 77
Italian creches or presepi, 22
Italian game birds, 26

Italian

Kapfenburg, 323
Kapitel Stadt,

284

language

in

the

Balkans,

20,

70, 76, 77> 121

Italian roads, 160
Italian schools in Zara, 77
Italian suburbs, 153
Italian Touring Club, 18

Agram,

8i
Karl Franz University, Gratz, 321
Karlstadt (Karlovac), 63, 309
Karst, the, 43, 44, 80, 82, 128, 200, 226
Kastelj hill, 81

Kcucie, 127

Kerosene can water

Kindberg, 323

Kleinwagna, 319
KIek, peninsula

Ivanica, 223
Ivanjska, 291

Klincaselo, 310
Klis (Clissa), 119

Jablan, valley of the, 274

Jablanica, 254, 326

Jackson (F. H. and T. G.), quoted, 70,

no,

112,

Zara

Jadran, Hotel, Bakar, 40

Jadro River, 95, 104, 1 17-120
Jagare, 287
Jajce, 255, 259, 268, 275-286, 289, 290,
325. 326

Jamnicka

Kiselica, bottled water, 304

Japanese aspect of Kosluk, 277

Jastrebarsko, 310
Jazbina, 313
Jazvaci, 310
Jehovac, 269
Jesuits, Society of, Porto Re, 41
Jewess' cap, 249, 250, 283
Jezero, lake of, 280
Joanneum, Museum, Gratz, 321

Jurasevo Ulica, 32

K
Kainach River, 320
Kaiser Franz Josef Bad, 315
Kambelovac, Castel, see Cambio,

of,

Kraljevica, 40, 41
Krasic, 310

Krcma, 84
Krisanje inn, 268

Krivacko
Krivosije,

Zdrjelo,

pass

mountains

of,

of,

199,

211

198

Krizanje, inn of, 259

River, and Falls of the, 20, 61,
86-88, 91
Krnjak, 308, 309

Krka

Krstac grotto, 212

Krstac, guard house

at,

211

Krupa, 287, 295, 296

Krupa's castle, 287, 296
Kseljak, 256, 269
Kukovica Saddle, 291
Kulpa River, 310
Kumbor, 189
Kumbor, Canale di, 184
Kupcina River, 310
''Kuss die Hand!" an overworked salutation, 46, 265

172, 174, 188, 191, 217

139

Knin, 59, 63, 82, 83, 87, 95

Kornadinaquella River, 253
Komar Saddle, 274
Kompolje, 52
Konjica, 256
Korana River, 306, 307, 309
Kornmesser-Haus, Bruck, 323
Kosjak, Lake, 304
Kosluk, 277
Kotsch, 316
Kotting Brook, 315
Kozica River, 270
Kozjak, Mt., 117, 118
Kozorac, 292

Castel

Kamenari,

pails, 55, 195

Klanfari, 41

Ivan Pass, 255, 256, 258, 326

Jadar, see

"Kate Grubic, Gostiona," 119

Katunska Ulica, Cetinje, 202, 207, 209

Italian well-sweeps, 310

Italians in Ragusa, 168
Italy, conquest of (489 A. D.). 30

71, 76, 82, 88, loi, 103,

143. i49> 152, 153. 169

31

Karanovac, 287
Karin Lake, 61, 63
Karin, Novigrad, and Vrana highway,

Kvarte, 56

334

INDEX
La

Maltempo, canal of, 41

Maps, 18, 20, 27
Maquis, characteristic type

Catene, 191, 214

Lacroma,

24, 145, 154, 157, 158, 220, 222

"Maria Theresa,"

native ornament, 70
Marina, Porta, Zara, 70, 73, 74, 78
Marjan, Monte, 105, 122
Market-place, point of interest, 113
Mathias Corvinus, Hungarian king, 153

Landhaus, Gratz, 321

Langenwang, 324
Lapad, i6i, 165, 222
La Sponza, mint and custom house,
Ragusa, 150
Lasva River, 270, 271, 273

make

vege-

Maraschino wine district, 125

Marburg, 316, 318, 323

Ladislas of Hungary, 79
Lakes, winter, 29, 80, 135, 180
Lalla Rookh, 209

Latin nations

of

tation, 55

Mausoleum, Diocletian's Palace, Spalato,

use of expressive

10

Maximilian, Emperor, of Mexico, 25,

intonations, 113

157

Leathern belts of Dalmatians,

Ledern, 320
Leibnitz, 319
Lepenica River, 259, 268, 269
Lepetane, 192, 214, 215
Lesce, 54

May-day celebration, Ragusa, 176

Medusa, curious marine creature, 185

23, 107

Meja, 40
Mekdolac, 63
Meleda, height

Farmacia,
"Ljecamica,
Ragusa, 150

of,

141

Melji.-'e, 172, 182, 185,

Lesina, island of, 74, 100

Libumia, ancient, 82
Lichtenegg Castle, 323
Lika River, 56
IJon of St. Mark in Zara, 70; in Traii,
100, 102

Metkovic,

20, 124,

Mezzo, 141
Michael, son of Prince Mirko of Montenegro, 203
Michelozzo, architect, 151
Mills, Bosnian, typical, 270
Minceta Tower, 177, 222
Mirabella, castle of, 126

Apotheke,"

Miramar, Chateau

Ljubuski, 134
Loggia, Trail, loi, 102

of,

25

Mirinovo, 143
Mirko, Prince, of Montenegro, 203
Mittendorf, 323
Mixnitz, 323
Moesia, 30
Mohammed II., 168

Lombard

invasion, 30
Louis of Hungary, 167, 191
Lovcen, Mt., 189, 193, 196, 198, 199,
211, 326
Love of nature bond between ail nations, 146
Lovrana, 34
Luc, 313,

188

134-138

Mohammedan cemeteries,

237, 240, 251,

272, 297, 298

Monotony

replacing picturesqueness, 78

Montagna, Canale della, 61, 63

Montenegrin Alps, 230
Montenegro, no road maps

Lucius, ancient historian, 102

Lucko, 310
Luksic, Castel, see Vitturi, Castel
Lussin, 61

of,
27;
166; route into, 172,
194, 195, 204; mountains of, 180,
187, 193, 196, 223; national cap of,
198, 201
royalty alone owns auto-

Albanians

in,

Macedonia, 209

Madonna

dello

Scalpello,

pilgrimage

church of, 192, 214

Maggiore, Monte, 31

Mahomet
Mahomet

II.,

war

against, 103

Pasa, mosque

of,

Mostar, 245

246
Mail steamer, Zara, 77, 78
Malfi, bay of, 142, 143

mobiles in, 200; royal family

Servians founded, 204; army

335

203;
204,

209;
recognized by Powers, 204;
seaports of, 204; ruler of, 204; area
of, 204; inhabitants of, 204; Turkish
invasion of and defeat by, 210; capital
of,
211; successful tour of, 221;
differs from the Herzegovina and

Dalmatia, 254
Morinje, 172
Morlacca, the, 42

Mali Halan Pass, 20, 47, 60

Malta, Knights of, 182

of,

of,

INDEX
Morlacchi people, 68, 78, 112, 325

Nona, 61

Morpolaca River, 82
Mosko, 227

Norino, watch-tower of, 136

Novi, 43
Novigrad, 81
Novigrad, lake of (or sea), 61, 63

Moslem

religion,

280

Mosor, Mt., 1 1 8, 122, 125

Mostanje, 309
Mostar, 235, 238, 241-252, 268, 280,
325. 326

Motor

car, convenience of travelling by,

121, 123, 124, 160, 161
Motor car, equipment of, 38

"Motor

diligence" up the
via Krupa, 295
Mravince, 123
Mrkan, rock of, 1 79
Mrzljaki, 310

Muezzin
Muggia,

Mur

call,

Una

valley

Obrenovitch dynasty, of Servia, 203

Obrovac (Obrovazzo), 59, 63

Oest Automobil Club Auto-Benzin und
Oel Station, 53

244, 280

Ogulin, 301

"Old master"

River, 319, 320, 322, 323

Olive

Miirz River, 323

Miirzzuschlag, 324

Mushrabieh work of Cairo, no

Musica River, 231
Musicians, street, welcome among

Ombla

discovered in Zara, 72

merchant, Zara, 69

286, 291
River, 143

Onofrio de La Cava, architect, 151

Opanka, native sandal,

all

51, 69, 132, 133

in Diocle-

Oracular responses possible

tian's mausoleum,
Orahovac, 172

N
of,

80

Castle, Zengg, 46

Names

in two languages, 29, 39, 45, 121

Naf)oleon, Emperor, 41, 86, 129, 169
Narenta River, 135, 136, 138, 242, 246,
252, 253, 255, 256

Narenta

oil

Omarsko,

peoples, 34

Nahaj

Obed, 179
Ober-Cilli, 315

Oborgi, 274

28, 31

Nadin, Lake

Obcina, 21

252
Naro (Narenta) River, 138
Narodni Dom inn at Castelnuovo, 30
Narona, 85, 138
Nathalie, wife of Prince Mirko of Montevalley, 238,

negro, 203
Necropolis Suburbana, Salona, 118
Nehaj, Castel, see Papali, Castel
Neu-Bilek, 227
Neum, 139
Neustein, Schloss, 314
Nevesinje, 237, 238
"New woman of Turkey," 156
Newspapers, 76, 77, 266
Niagara, falls of the Krka contrasted
with, 88
Nice, 19, 268
Nicola I., Prince, of Montenegro, 202,

203
Nightingales, 246, 264, 280
Ninfa, 20

Njegus, 199, 212

Nocera, 21

no

Orasac, 142
Orchids at Plitvica Lakes, 302
Orient, value of wells in, 44
Orlov Krs, Cetinje, 203
Orsini, Georgio, architect, 151
Orsola, Val d', 178, 220, 222

Orthography of Slavic place names, 121

Ossero, Monte, 61
Ostrogoths and the conquest of Italy, 30
Ostrovac, 256
Ostrovica, Mt., 82
Otocac, 20, 50, 53, 54
Otoka, 296
Otric-Struge, 135
Otto, Mag., 112

Padua,

19, 21

Pago, island of, 61, 63

Painted mosque, Travnik, 271, 272
Pakoscane, 79
Palermo, 21
Palestrina, 20

Palm Sunday, 29
Panhaus, Hotel, Semmering Pass, 324
Pantheon, Rome, no
Papali or Nehaj, Castel, 103
Paravia, Biblioteca, Zara, 78

33^

INDEX
Parcels-f)ost,

convenience

of,

38,

266,

Parenzo, 28
Paris, 19

Priboj, 54, 300

Prjedor, 290, 293
Prokljan, lake of, 82, 87
Pronunciation of Serbo-Croatian
guage, rules for, 20

Pasjak, 30
259

Pazaric',

Peggau, 322
Perasto, 77, 172, 191-193, 213

Pernegg, 323

lan-

Prozor, 255
Punta d' Ostro, 168, 178

Perusic, 56
Perusic, castle of, 82
Perzagno, 194, 213
Pesaro, 21
Petasse, 310
Peter II., Prince, mortuary

Preluka, stone quarries of, 3 1

Prenj Alp, 251, 253-255, 257, 258, 326
Presepi, Italian, 22

chapel

Quarco, Castel, 103

Quarnero, islands of

of,

211

Petermann's "Guide to Dalmatia," 20

Queen

Petka, Mt., 161, 177

Petrarch's "I Trionli," 321
Petrovic dynasty, of Montenegro,

Queretaro,
imilian

203
Petrovoselo, 300
"Pettini," Ragusa, 145
"Pettini," Ragusa Vecchia, 179
Pfannberg, ruins of, 322
Piccola Venezia, 104, 119
Piccolo della Sera, II, Trieste, 76, 77
Pichl, Schloss, 323
Piero the sea-gull, 164, 165, 170, 171,175
Pierre, Prince, of Montenegro, 207
Pietro III., archbishop of Spalato (837),

68

the,

of Italy, 203

where Emperor Max-

field

fell,

25

R
Rabenstein, castle of, 322
Racice, 30
Radman Mills, 126

Radonja River, 309

Radua, 314
Ragusa, city and Republic

of, 124, 128,

137-139. 142-157, 159, i64-i7i> 175-

103

i77> 179.
266, 326

Pile, Porta,

198,

220,

222,

235,

252,

Ragusa, 148, 153, 165

Pipes, stone, laid through marshes, 81

Ragusa Vecchia, 179

Pirano, 28, 31
Pirates, 44-46, 48, 126
Pisa, 19, 20, 70

Railroads, 18, 58, 67, 95, 182, 256, 257,

266, 270, 274, 291, 293, 296, 301,
310, 324

Plague at Ragusa, 168, 169

Plane-trees of Ragusa, 142

Rakovac, 309
Rakovica, 306, 307
Rakovpotok, 310

Plat, 178

Rama

Pliny, quoted, 82
Plitvica Lakes, 54, 295, 301-306
Pliva River, 275, 276, 280

Valley, 255

Rann, 313
Rapallo, 19
Rascia, original

Pljesevica Mountains, 297-299

Ploce, Porta, Ragusa, 153

home

of the Morlacchi,

68

Podvelez, Mt., 238

Podvran, 296
Podvrk, 313
Pokoj, 297
Pola, 28, 105
Policemen, dearth of, 166
Poljica, Republic of, 125
Pompeii, baths of, 117
Popovo district, 252
Porto Casson, 156
Porto Re, 41
Prairies, the Karst compared with, 44

Rastelica, 258
Rattsdorf, 320
Ravenna, 19, 21

Ravljane, 54
Rector's Palace, Ragusa, 151, 168, 171
Red Sea, 264
Reichselstein, chateau of, 313

Remetinec, 311
Rialto, Venice, 244
Ricardo, Arco di, Trieste, 24
Riccardi, Palazzo, Florence, 151
Richard Cceur de Lion, tradition con-

Preloge, 316

cerning, 24

337

INDEX
Ricice River, valley of, 59
Rimini, 18, 19, 21
Risano, 172, 217
Risano, stage from, 190
Riva Vecchia, Zara, 74, 78
Riviera of Ragusa and the Bocche, 326
Riviera of the Sette Castelli, 103, 116
Riviera, the, 19, 20

Rjeka (Fiume), 39, 208

Roads, condition of, 32, 38, 40, 41, 43,
47-51. 54, 57. 58, 60, 63, 64, 79-81, 87,
88, 95, 96, 100, 103, 118, 125, 126,
128-130, 138-140, 160, 172, 176, 178,
192-194, 197, 198, 209, 211, 213, 225227, 229, 256, 269, 285, 286, 290-293,
295-297, 300, 301, 306, 310, 311, 313,
315. 316, 317, 320, 322-324
Roman antiquities, 76, 315, 319
Roman place of exile, 102
Roman ruins (Trieste), 24; (Pola), 28;
(Zara), 74; (of aqueducts), 81; (near
Salona), 104; (Spalato), 109; (Salona),
116-118; jce Diocletian's Palace, Spalato

Romanesque

art, fine

no

example

of,

San Giorgio, Benedictine abbey of, 193,

214

San Giovanni, fort of, Sebenico, 92

San Grisogono, Zara, 72, 73
San Guiseppe, tree growing over door
of, 162,

163

San Marco, monastery of, Lacroma, 157

San Michele, 165
Sann River, 314, 315
San Simeone, Zara, 71
Santa Savina, monastery of, 186-188,
218

Sapjane, 31
Sarajevo, 252, 255, 259-264, 270, 272,
289
Sardine- fishing, 156
Sasak, 39
Save River, 311, 313, 314
Savina, 182
Scardona, 83-87
Schlossberg, Gratz, 322

Schwab, Hotel, Kseljak, 269

Schwanberg Alps, 319, 320
Schwarzequelle, the, 253
Sculptured heads in Sebenico, 90, 91
Scutari, 200

loi,

Rome, 19-21
Romerbad, 315

Scutari,

Lake

Season to
Season to

Rothelstein, precipice
323
Route from Paris to Dalmatia, 19-21
of,

visit
visit

209
Dalmatia, 18
Ragusa, 170

of, 200,

m>

Sebenico, 61, 83, 87-97,

Seghetto, 100
Segna (Senj or Zengg), 44
Segni, 20

Rovigno, 28
Rovigo, 21
Royalty of Montenegro, 200, 203
Rucani River, 189
Rudolf, Crown Prince, 157

Semmering,

the, 322,

i45, 151

324

Senj (Segna or Zengg), 44

Serbo-Croatian language, 20
Sergio, Mt., 148, 157, 167, 220, 222
Servia, 48, 204, 252

S.

Servian-Croatian language, 77
Servians discard national costumes, 249
Servians founded Montenegro, 204
Sette Castelli, Riviera of the, 103, 116

Euphemia, 76

S. Michele, Ugljan,
S. Stefano de Pinis,

76
church

of, 11

Sabbioncello, Peninsula of, 139

Saborski, 306
Sahara Desert, comparison with,
Salona, 85, 102, 104, 116-118
Salonian Gulf, 119

Sheep shearing, 300

160

Samobor, 313
Sana River, 293, 294
San Cosimato, 20
San Domenico, church of, Ragusa, 153
San Donato, Zara, 76
San Francesco, Zara, 71,72
San Georgio Maggiore, Library of,
Venice, 151

San Giacomo degli Olivi, 153

San Giacomo, monastery of,

Shooting on Narenta River, 135

Shrines, wayside, 319
Sibenik (Sebenico), 93
Siena, 19, 20
Siesta, hour of the, 89
Piazza dei, Zara, 78
Signori,
"
Piazza dei, Spalato, 112
"
Piazza dei, Trail, loi
Silk industry, Scardona, 86
Silversmiths' work. Treasury of
Duomo, Ragusa, 152, 153
Sinj, 118
Sisicic,

177,

222

256

Slano, 140

338

the

INDEX
Slavic

names and language,

20, 36, 77,

84, 121

Slavonja, 83, 314

Slavs in "wandering of the tribes," 30
Slunjji_,^307

Smilcfc, 64

Smoking by Croatian
Smokovo, 41

Stradone, Ragusa, 148, 150, 176

Strichowetz, 319
Struka, native shawl, 202, 206
St. Stephen of Hungary, 152
Study of ruined city necessary before
visit, 116

Stupink, 310

ladies, 41

St.

Urban, peak

of,

316

Sokolac, castle of, 297

"Solta, honey of," etc., 104
Solta, island of, 100, 119, 123
South Slavonian Academy of Science,

Styria, 313, 320

Sucurac, Castel, 103
Sulphur springs, Ilidze, 259
Sulphur springs, Spalato, 122

Agram, 312
Spagnuolo, Fort, 182, 218

Supetar, rock of, 179

Suriki, 41
Sut Juraj (S. Giorgio) (Sucurac, Castel),

83, 95-97, 103-116,

137, 145, 244, 252, 282

Spalato,

Spalato, bay of,

18-124,

122

Spaniards in Castelnuovo, 181, 182

Spanish attitude toward Ragusa, 170
Spanish roads, 160
Spethan Bathory, King of Poland, 321

Sutorina, river and valley of, 181, 220

Svilaja Mountains, 61
Svratiste Lika, Gospic, 56, 57
Sv. Rok, 59
Sv. bcipan chapel, 125

Swiss chalets, houses which resemble,

52> 258
Sycamore trees, of Ragusa, 142

Spezia, 19, 20
Spincici, 31
Spital-Rettenegg, 324
"Split" (Spalato), 104, 105
Spljet (Spalato), 105

Squaw-root at Plitvica Lakes, 303

Stadt-Park, Marburg, 318
Stafileo, Castel, 103

Stages between Ragusa and Gravosa,

146
Stagno, 168
Stagno piccolo, Canale di, 139, 140
Starigrad, 61

Steam-boat established means of transportation in Dalmatia, 28

Steamer route between Obrovac and
Zara, 63
Steinbruck, 314
Steiner Alps, 315
Steinhaus, 324
Sternstein, Castle, 316
St. Francis, church and monastery of,

Spalato, 108

Stjepan Sandalj, Duke, 181, 239

Stjepangrad, castle of, 238, 239
St. Luke, campanile of, Jajce, 282
St. Luke's belfry, 123
St. Marein, 323
St. Mark, lion of, 70, 100, 102
St. Mark's church, Agram, 311
Stobrec, 125
Stobrec River, 125
Stolivo, donji, or lower, 194, 213
Stolivo, gornji, or upper, 193, 213
St. Peter's belfry, 123

"StradaMaestra," 128

Tarcin, sawmills of, 259

Tartars' defeat on plain of Grobnica,

80

Temple

of Jupiter, Diocletian's Palace,

Spalato,

no

Teodo, Bay of, 189, 191, 196, 217

Tepanje, 316
Tergeste, 30
Terni, and Cascades of, 19, 21
Terns, 67
Terraferma, Porta, Zara, 64
Terre Firma, Porta de, Trail, 100
Theodoric, king of the Ostrogoths, 30
Therapia Palace Hotel, Crkvenica, 41
Tivoli, 20
Tjesno, Gorge, 287

Tomasewitch,

Tomb

last

of Ismail

king of Bosnia, 283

Baba, near Travnik,

273

Tombs

of Bosnian viziers, Travnik, 272

Nicolo, 90

Tommaseo,

Topla, Baja di, 184

Tradition and history, 24
Trajan, aqueduct built by, 81
Traste, Bay of, 213
Trail, 83, 95, 100-102
Travnik, 256, 268, 271-274, 326
Travnik, castle of, 271
Trebinjcica River, 143, 224, 227

339

INDEX
Trebinje, 176, 178, 187, 222, 224, 225,
227. 235,

326

Trebinje River, 224

Trcbisnjica, or Tribinjcica, River, 143,
224, 227
Tree growing over door of San uiseppc
162, 163
Trcscanica River and valley, 256, 257
Treviso, 19, 21
Tribanje, 61

Veglia, island of, 31, 41, 42, 50

Velebit Mountains, 56, 62, 325
Velebit Pass, 59, 63
Velebit, plateau of the, 51
Velez, Mt., 237, 2^1, 252
"Velika Gubavica" (Falls of the Cetina), 127
Veljun, 307, 308
Venetian ships in Trieste harbor, 21
Venice and the Venetians, in Balkan

18, 19, 21-25, 27, 28, 31, 38,

77-97. 136, 244,325
Trinita, Fort, 196, 197, 213
Tristeno (Cannosa), 142
Trogir (Traii), 100

Verhovo, 314
Vidouje, 138

Troglav, 230
Trpimir, King (837), 103
Trupina, native boat, 135
Tuffer's castle, 315
Turia Pass, 128, 129
"Turkey, new woman of," 156
Turkish costume, 137, 156, 157, 224,
246, 247, 284
Turkish village house, type of, 259
Turkish watch-towers, 223
Turkish women, 229, 241-243, 277279, 296, 298

Vidovic, mill of, 119

Village houses, types of, 259
Vilovac Saddle, 259
Vinac, 275
Vinodol Valley, 42
Visocica Planina, Mt., 256
Vissech, mills of, 126
Viterbo, 20
Vitturi or Luksic, Castel, 103
Vlasic, Mt., 269, 270, 274
Vrana, 81
Vrana, Lake of, 81

Turks

Vranjic, 104
Vratnica, Mt., 269
Vratnica, mountain range of, 269
Vratnik Pass, 47, 50, 51

Trieste,

history, 31, 48, 71, 73, 79, 82, 83, 93,

100, 113, 119, 128, 138, 139, 149, 167,
170, 182, 191

in Balkan history, 48, 71, 74, 79,

82, 103, 119, 128, 139, 167-170, 181,
182, 204, 209, 210, 224, 256, 281, 283,

322
Turks object

to

being photographed,

228, 249
Tusilovic, 309

Tvarko

I.,

Bosnian king, founder of

Castelnuovo, 181

Tvertko

II.,

King

Vratniku, 50
Vrgo/ac, 131-133
Vrmac, Fort, 196
Vrmac, peninsula
Vrpolje, 95, 97

of Bosnia (fourteenth

198

century), 271

of,

"Wandering of
Wart berg, 323

the tribes," 30

Ubinja, 309
Udine, 19, 21
Ugar River, 286

Watershed between Adriatic and Black

Ugljan, 72, 76
River, 294-297
Urbas River, 275-277, 285-288
Urbino, 19, 21
Uscocs, the, 48, 86, 169

Wells, the value in the Orient, 44

"Whoa!" universally understood

Seas, 258

Wedding customs, Mostar, 249

Una

fear,

V
Vakanski Vrh, 59
Vakuf, 256, 274, 275
Vallone of Risano, 217
Vecchio, Castel, 103

by

horses, 58

Wicker wagons, 22, 289

Wild animals in Dalmatia, no need

to

97

Wildon, 320
Wilkinson, Sir Gardner, quoted, 170
Winchester, General, 171
Windisch-Feistritz, 316
Winnowing corn in Croatia, manner of,
299, 300
Wisconsin, comparison with, 291

340

INDEX

VVochau, 316
Balkans, 140
Women as burden-bearers, 29, ^^, 42,
43, 47, 166, 199, 307

Zavorio,
engineer, 129
Zegar, fortress of, 299
Zelenika, 27, 172, 182-189, 217
Zeljeznica River, 259

Woodwork,

Zemonico, 64,

"Woman's work"

in the

mediaeval, 11

79,

80

Zengg (Senj or Segna), 44-48

Zeughaus, or Arsenal, Gratz, 321
Zitnic, 95

Zadar, see Zara

Zagreb, see Agram
Zagreb, Hotel, Zengg, see

Agram

Hotel,

Zengg
Zagvozd, 128

Zalomska River,

Vincenzo, archbishop
Zara, 77
Zrmanja River, 63
Zrnovnica, 123
Zujevina River, 259, 268
Zukici, 257
Zupa, 196
Zupa valley, 213
Zutalokva, 51
Zvironjak River, 196, 197
Zwecaj-Grad castle, 287

Zmajevich,

237, 240
Zara, 18, 57, 6i, 63-79, 81, 83, 89, 93,
128, 145, 155, 252, 325
Zara Vecchia, 81, 93, 172
Zavalje, 299
Zavic, 83

341

of

DO NOT REMOVE
CARDS OR SLIPS FROM THIS POCKET
PLEASE

UNIVERSITY OF

DR
15
H9
1910

TORONTO

LIBRARY

Hutchinson, Frances Kinsley

Motoring in the Balkans

^mm^^^