Dhrmi is a quaint coastal village, home to 31 churches
and monasteries and is a favorite summer retreat for many of Tiranas international community. Park carefully on the roadsides in Dhermi, and begin the steep 15minute climb from the National Road to Saint Mary Church and P anais Monastery Panais Monastery, a basilica with a Byzantine-style wooden and tiled dome with a single nave. An old church, with a Byzantine-style dome dating back to the 14 th century, serves as the communion area. The Archbishop Ioannis of Himara and Delvina commissioned frescos to decorate the
church in 1781. The Church of Ipapandia is situated
very close to the beach and can be reached via a 5minute drive on secondary roads. Exhibiting typical features of the mid-14th century churches on the Albanian coast, the Church of Ipapandia has a large, semi-circular shaped atrium, which is divided by the narthex. The narthex features two entrances and a stone iconostas, the screen or wall dividing the sanctuary from the nave in traditional Orthodox and Catholic churches. Another interesting characteristic of the church is the high, elegant bell tower erected on the western facade. Admission is free to both churches, although a small donation for their upkeep is encouraged. MONASTERY OF SAINT THEODORE (Approx.5 km south from Dhermi approx. 25 minutes on the Vlora-Saranda National Road and dirt roads) From Dhermi, head south the second village you pass will be the village of Gjipe. Gjipe, a former Albanian military outpost, is home to the Monastery of Saint Theodore Theodore. The monastery was originally built in the 14th century, but was not finished until nearly 500 years later in 1860, with construction funded by contributions from other neighboring monasteries. Follow signs from the main road to Gjipe beach, a beautiful and clean beach hidden inside the narrow neck of Gjipe Canyon. Part of the descent will be on foot on narrow, rocky paths; extreme caution should be exercised when descending or ascending these paths to the beach. Admission is free to the monastery, though a small donation for its upkeep is encouraged. HIMARA S CA STLE AND CHURCHES HIMARAS CASTLE (13 km south from Gjipe approx. 35 minutes on the Vlora-Saranda National Road) Continuing south along the National Road to the ancient city of Himara, take advantage of the natural beauty for a roadside picnic or photography on this untouched stretch of Albanian coastline. Upon arrival, one may visit the 5th century B.C. Castle of Himara Himara, positioned prominently on the hill above the city which it once
protected. Driving south from Gjipe, it is advised to park
the vehicle in upper Himara, upon first entering the city as it is closer to the castle. Continue on foot to the castle, paying attention to the slippery rocks underfoot. A longtime stronghold of the local population, the castle was occupied until the 16th century A.D. and contains a number of houses and churches of the post-Byzantine period. Perhaps the most beautiful church within the walls is the Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus Bacchus, overlooking Himara and the Ionian Sea. Also known as the Church of All Saints, this former seat of the archbishopric of Himara showcases church walls preserving its multiple phases of construction, part of them being built on top of earlier walls. Original construction is thought to have occurred towards the end of the 10 th century. After enjoying this peaceful spot amongst the citrus and olive trees, continue on to lower Himara and its beaches, where most of the towns hotels and restaurants are located. Himara castle and its churches charge no admission. LUNCH IN THE ANCIENT CITY OF HIMARA Inhabited for thousands of years, Himaras earliest known occupants were of the Illyrian Chaonians tribe. In the 5th century B.C., Himara was known by the name of Chimera and in the 9th-10th centuries chronicles mention it as an Episcopal center under the Ohrid Archdiocese. Today Himara is the largest town between Vlora and Saranda, a beautiful coastal town by the Ioanian sea. The citys main earner is tourism, and visitors should have little
difficulty in locating a simple, yet well-maintained
restaurant or caf to dine in. As a seaside town, visitors are encouraged to try the local catch of the day: sea bass (levrek), snapper (koce), or red mullet (barbun), served either fried (skuqur) or grilled (zgare). Fried potatoes and a variety of salads make for great accompaniments, served family-style with homemade local wines. CHURCH OF SAINT MARY OF VA KREMOSO KREMOSOV (24 km south from Himara approx. 60 minutes on the Vlora-Saranda National Road) From Himara, continue south along the National Road towards the Monastery of Kremosova, situated on a hill overlooking the village of Piqeras, on the left side of the National Road. A 30-minute walk is necessary to reach the church. The Church of Saint Mary of Kremosova dates back to 1672, and is preserved in the center of monastic ruins. The church is a basilica with three naves. It features a cupola poised over a high cylindrical roof at the center of the hall and a two-story narthex on its west wing. From the narthex there was a direct passage to the residence halls of the monastery. These collapsed at the beginning of the 20th century, when the church also had some lateral walls damaged. Some time later, the inhabitants built supportive walls and therefore avoided the church becoming destroyed entirely. Admission to the church is free and visitors are encouraged to walk carefully on the paths leading to the ruins.
MONASTERIES OF SAINT MARY
(Turn off from National Road is 22 km south of Piqeras approx. 45 minutes) Before ending your tour in the seaside resort town of Saranda, watch the sun set at the highly recommended Church and Monastery of Saint Mary at Kakome Kakome. Located in the Bay of Kakome, head south from Piqeras until you see signs for Kakome beach. Follow the signs by turning right towards the sea, traveling an additional 20 minutes (7 km) to the monastery. This is a fortified monastery, comprised of residential buildings situated in the two corners of the courtyard, and the church dedicated to Saint Mary in the center. The nave is cross-shaped and the church has a dome-shaped roof. The nave is preceded by an arched narthex, at the front of which is a bell tower. The frescoes of the church were produced by a painter named Mihal, according to a 1672 inscription inside the church. A visit also to the nearby Church and Monastery of Saint Mary at Krorz-Nivica is also recommended. This monastery is situated about 2 km northwest of the Church and Monastery of Saint Mary of Kakome. The floor plan of the Church of Saint Mary at Krorz-Nivica resembles a cross with a cupola and is similar to other Byzantine churches found in the area. The roof of the church is covered with stone slabs and the church itself dates to the post Byzantine period, with frescoes painted in 1672. Admission is free to both churches though a small donation is encouraged for their upkeep, if possible.
FINE DINING IN THE SEASIDE RESORT
TOWN OF SARANDA (12 km south from the Kakome Beach sign approx. 15 minutes) Continue on from the monasteries of Saint Mary for dinner and overnight in Saranda, Albanias southern-most city and a primary entry-point for visitors arriving from the Greek island of Corfu, five miles away. With its lively Mediterranean atmosphere, Saranda has something to offer all visitors, from high-end hotels and dynamic discotheques, to ancient ruins and peaceful beaches. Travelers will find little difficulty locating a place to stay, although rooms may be harder to come by during the summer high season in July and August. Influenced by Greek, Italian and Turkish cuisines, Sarandas culinary traditions are wellknown amongst Albanians. Fresh seafood is abundant, as well as recipes from the surrounding areas pastoral traditions, such as roasted lamb, pastry pies (byrek), and stews. Local wines and homemade brandy (raki) will help finish off any course as visitors to Saranda take advantage of the scenic setting to watch the sun set over nearby Corfu. For more Information: www.albaniantourism.com www.tirana-airport.com.al; www.bashkiavlore.org; www.himara.eu; www.saranda-guide.com Celesi Tourist Guides; e-mail: opinion@celesi.com Car Rental Companies: Sixt; EuropCar; AVIS; HERTZ
This itinerary will allow travelers to visit a
series of churches and monasteries from Albanias millennia-long history. All stops on this itinerary feature well-preserved structures, many of which are decorated with original frescoes from the 17th century. From short stops along your journey to those that are well off the beaten path, this itinerary offers all visitors a chance to glimpse inside Albanias Byzantine and postByzantine religious history.
Please note that travel and visitation times
are approximate and may vary depending on the season, weather, and/or vehicle used. As of January 2008, the Vlora-Saranda National Road has only been improved as far south as the village of Dhermi. Travelers should be cautioned that the road is in the process of being improved and road construction may delay their journeys. Travelers are advised to travel these segments by daylight if the driver is unfamiliar with these winding, secondary roads. Public transportation will only provide access to locations on the main Vlora-Saranda National Road; private transportation is recommended. Walking shoes in good condition are also advised. No sites on this itinerary are handicapped accessible.