Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
2015
TECHNICAL NOTES
1. Number of tests to be carried out for yarn
quality evaluation
2. Cotton stickiness - issues and solutions
- Part 3
PROJECTS
Influence of weave type on breathability of
compact yarn fabrics
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STAFF NEWS
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TRAINING PROGRAMMES
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SITRA News
SITRA News
In terms of per kilogram per count, the conversion cost does not show
any trend between the counts. It averages at about Rs 2.0 per kg per
count, varying from Rs1.60 to Rs2.20 between counts. However, in terms
of per spindle shift, the total conversion cost shows a declining trend as
the count becomes finer i.e. in 24sCH Ex., it is around Rs.13 whereas in
80s C, it is only about Rs.7.
Item-wise conversion cost in 2014
Item-wise conversion cost also shows an increasing trend as the count
becomes finer (Table 2). For example, the salaries and wages cost in the
coarse count (24s CH) is only about Rs 9 per kg of yarn whereas in the
superfine count (80sC), it is almost 4 times high at Rs 36 per kg of yarn.
The power cost which is around Rs 18 per kg of yarn in 24s CH, is also
3.5 times high at about Rs65 per kg of yarn in 80s C.
Another interesting observation is that of the total conversion cost, power
cost is found to be the single largest one with a share of 40% followed by
the salaries and wages cost (20%) and interest cost (13%). The
depreciation cost stands at 4th place (11%) followed by the stores and
packing materials cost (10%) and administrative overheads (6%).
SITRA News
SITRA News
S.
no.
Conversion
cost/ kg of yarn
(Rs)
Count
2010
2014
Increase
in the
conversion
cost (%)
1.
24s CH-Ex.
38.6
51.3
33
2.
30s CH
43.1
58.5
36
3.
30s CH-Ex.
45.4
57.7
27
4.
40s C
65.1
77.3
19
5.
50s CH-Ex.
68.2
92.0
35
6.
60s C
92.3
123.7
34
7.
60s C-Comp.
93.0
132.4
42
8.
80s C
138.5
162.3
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Salaries and
wages cost
29%
Power cost
14%
Interest cost
47%
8%
2%
Administrative
overheads +
Depreciation cost
SITRA News
The power cost per unit during this four year period registered a jump of
27% (from Rs 4.74 per unit in 2010 to Rs 6 per unit in 2014, as per the
25th and 30th CPQ studies). The above analysis also leaves an important
message that there is an urgent need to improve the labour productivity in
many mills so as to control the spurt in the SWC which is somewhat
alarming. The depreciation cost in fact registered a marginal drop of about
2.7% which indicates that the participant mills did not make any significant
investment on modernisation of machinery which in turn may be due to
the disturbed performance witnessed by the mills during the past 4 years.
Impact of increase in the conversion cost on profit margin
Profitability of a count is determined by the net out-put value (NOV) on
one hand and the conversion cost on the other. The NOV is nothing but
the difference between yarn selling price and raw material cost. Table 4
shows the changes that witnessed in the NOV, conversion cost and net
profit in all the 8 counts between 2010 and 2014.
Table 4 Changes in NOV, conversion cost and net profit
between 2010 and 2014
Amount: Rs/kg of yarn
The NOV, on the whole, did not register any increase in 2014 as
compared to the NOV that prevailed in 2010. Of the 8 counts, 3 counts
registered a drop in the NOV (24sCH-Ex., 30s CH-Ex. and 40s C)
SITRA News
16.72 g/tex
CV of Rkm
10.89%
16.72 x 10.89
100
SITRA News
1.82
2 times SD
3.6
2 SD
Error of estimate
3.6
100
0.36
0.36
% Error of estimate in the assessment of Rkm = x 100
16.72
=
2.15%
4 CV2
E2
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4 x 10.892
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474
= 10.89%.
SITRA News
Sugar content in
cotton (approx.)
Blue
0.25 %
Green
0.50%
Yellow
1.00%
Red
2.00%
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Honey dew
Honey dew is the sugary substance secreted by white fly or aphids
infecting the cotton plants. These insects suck the plant sap from the
affected parts and the metabolic by-product is a sticky substance
called honey dew. These random deposits of the sugary substances
sometimes gain entry into the seed cotton and are causes for cotton
stickiness. This stickiness is a localized effect exhibited by those
portions of cotton affected by honey dew. In addition to the problem of
stickiness, the white fly attack results in the reduction of fibre length,
micronaire value, maturity and fibre strength. When white fly affected
fibres are mounted on a slide with mineral oil and viewed under
microscope, black bars are observed in the lumen. This indicates the
damage of primary cell wall in the cotton fibre. White fly contaminated
cottons have extraordinarily high glycerine content and comparatively
high arabitol and mannitol content, which are indicative of biologically
damaged cotton.
Other contaminants
Contaminants like crushed seeds, immature seeds present in the lint
(due to non-optimum ginning conditions), etc. might result in oozing
out of cotton seed oil during processing and cause stickiness of the
cotton stock. Similarly, poor materials handling methods of lubricants
at the ginning as well as at the opening and cleaning stages in the
spinning process will result in oil contamination and may cause
stickiness during processing. However, this stickiness problem would
be a localized one exhibited by the cotton stock only from the
contaminated area.
In general, sticky cottons have one or more of the following
characteristics:
(i)
(ii)
(iii)
SITRA News
(iv)
(v)
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with 4 different weaves viz, plain, drill (3/1 Twill), satin (5 End) and
honey comb were produced using 40s compact yarn. Spinning was
done at SITRA Pilot mill and the fabrics were woven in a powerloom
factory. Plain loom of 56" width (Dobby attached) was used and the
speed maintained was 100 ppm (cloth width 50"). Some of the major
properties of the 40s C compact yarn are given in Table 1.
Table 1 Quality attributes of 40s C compact yarn
S. no.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
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Yarn properties
Count (Ne)
Count CV (%)
Corrected CSP
U%
Thin places ( -50%)/km
Thick places (+50%) km
Neps (+200%) / km
Total imperfections / km
Hairiness (H)
Elongation (%)
Tenacity (Rkm)
Value
40
1.9
2643
10.33
3
59
198
260
3.15
4.59
22.40
SITRA News
S. no.
Type of weave
Air permeability
1
2
3
4
Plain
Drill
Satin
Honey comb
98.45
230.70
263.5
274.4
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Plain weave
Drill
5 End satin
Honey comb
Figure 1 Shows the weave type of the fabrics produced
in this study.
Air permeability values are relatively higher for satin & honey comb
fabrics and lower for plain weave fabrics. In the satin & honey comb
fabrics, the intersection (connection) numbers of warp & weft yarns
are lower which account for the higher level of air permeability;
conversely, in the plain weave fabrics, in which the intersection number
is the highest, the air permeability is the lowest.
Water vapour transmission rates (WVTR) for the fabrics of different
weave types are given in Table 3.
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It was observed that in the satin and honey comb fabrics, in which the
weft yarns are relatively more free (intersections are less by about
50%), the water vapour transmission was higher. On the other hand, in
the plain weave and drill fabrics the weft yarns are comparatively not
free due to more number of intersections they make with the warp
yarns. Therefore, the water vapour transmission was relatively lower in
these fabrics. On an average, satin / honey comb fabrics had about
25% higher WVTR as compared to the plain weave fabrics and about
15% higher WVTR in comparison with the drill fabrics.
Table 3 Water vapour transmission rate (WVTR) for compact yarn
fabrics with different weaves (g/m2) for 24 hrs
S. no.
Type of weave
Plain
1475
Drill
1671
Satin
1976
Honey comb
2017
DISTINGUISHED VISITOR
Ms. Richa Bagla, I.A.S., Director, Directorate of Textiles, Govt.
of Maharashtra.
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Type of study
No. of mills
Work assignment study
3
Machinery valuation
1
Viscosity cup fabrication
4
Sample warp knitting
3
Study on noise level
1
ACS for humidification plants & compressors
1
Energy audit
2
Study on water consumption and time taken
for dyeing on soft flow dyeing machines
1
Consultancy on process standardisation
1
Technical study - process route to eliminate
black dots on bleached white fabrics
1
Technical study - Special process to minimise
bleeding of colour and staining on adjacent
portions from yarn dyed carpets
1
Meetings attended
Dr. Prakash Vasudevan, Director, attended the following meetings :
- Ninth meeting of Project Appraisal Monitoring Committee (PAMC),
under R & D scheme of Ministry of Textiles, under the
Chairmanship of the Textile Commissioner, at Office of the Textile
Commissioner, Mumbai on 22nd January, 2015.
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SITRA News
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Papers published
1. Dr.K.P.Chellamani & Mr.V.Vijayajothi Roller lapping in
spinning? - an objective evaluation technique Texfair 2015
Souvenir, SIMA, January 2015, pp. 26 31.
2. Dr.K.P.Chellamani, Mr.M.K.Vittopa & Mr.R.S.Vignesh Balaji
Studies on comfort properties of compact yarn fabric Texfair
2015 Souvenir, SIMA, January 2015, pp. 32 39.
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Recognition
1. Dr.K.P.Chellamani, has been retained by the Department of Bio
Technology (DBT), New Delhi as an expert member to review the
progress of a project Innovative method to extract silk grade banana
fibres sponsored and financed by DBT.
Visits
Mr.K.Balasubramaniyan, Assistant Director and Head of Knitting and
Weaving Division, visited the following places:
- Southern India Mills Association (SIMA) to discuss on Airjet loom
technical problem on 30th January, 2015.
- To Central Prison along with Director General of Prisons, Hyderabad
to discuss about the weaving machinery requirement on 31st
January, 2015.
TRAINING
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SITRA News
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yarn. They are i) Compact Core, ii) Fuzzy Interface and iii) Fluffy hairy
sheath.
Since there is a fuzzy interface between the core and hairy area, the
thickness of the core can be derived by employing the frequency
distribution diagram of the yarn Image.
In the present study, the authors have defined the thickness of the
fuzzy interface as 0.25 of the cores diameter around the core. The
hairy area is randomly located around the fuzzy zone.
The average thickness (diameter) of yarn is defined as the thickness
of its core plus the average density of pixels represented by the yarn
along the fuzzy zone.
After identifying the core of the yarn and the fuzzy zone around it, the
mean value of yarn diameter is obtained from equation (1)
--------- (1)
Where B is the border line between the fuzzy and hairy areas and f(x,
y) is the intensity function of image pixels. Mean value of diameter
(MD index) was taken as one of the pictorial indices of abrasion.
--------- (2)
The hair density average (HAD index) was taken as another index.
Considering the hairy area in the yarn image, the average of hair density
in image columns along the yarn can be calculated from equation (2).
The ratio of hairiness (RH) index was evaluated. This index can result
from the ratio of the hairy area to the area of core sector of the yarn
images as shown in equation (3).
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--------- (3)
--------- (4)
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