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Patterns and Tutorials for sweet kids clothing

Addie

Description: Shirred on the top and bodice, this easy sundress dress is perfect for the beginning
sewer and someone new to shirring. Dress length is below the knee with the ruffle, or can be hemmed
at the bottom for a shorter dress, or top.
Sizing Guidelines:
Standard US Sizing guidelines for basic reference (in inches). **Pattern sizes are calculated using
these measurements**
Age
(approximate)
Chest
Waist
Height

20
19
31

21
20
34

22
20
37

23
21
40

24
21
43

25
22
46

Supplies: Sewing Machine, Serger (optional), Cotton Fabric as outlined in the table, iron (with
Steam feature), scissors, pins, thread, elastic thread, ruler, rotary cutter and mat (optional), fabric
marker or chalk.

Skill Level: knowledge of how to work your sewing machine/serger, straight and curved seams,
ruffling, and rolled hem (or serged edge), measuring and cutting the pattern pieces.
Estimated Fabric Yardage for this pattern using 42-44 width fabric:
1
2
3
4
Dress
yard
yard
yard
yard
Straps
1/8 yard
1/8 yard
1/8 yard
1/8 yard
Lower
1/8 yard
1/8 yard
1/8 yard
1/8 yard
Ruffle
Tie
1/8 yard
1/8 yard
1/8 yard
1/8 yard

5
+ yard
1/8 yard
1/8 yard

6
2/3 yard
1/8 yard
1/8 yard

1/8 yard

1/8 yard

Cut the following pattern pieces, measured in Inches:

Dress
Shoulder
Straps
Lower
Ruffle
Tie

1
Cut 1
31x13
Cut 2
10x4
Cut 2
30x4
Cut 2
32x4

2
Cut 1
32 x14
Cut 2
10x4
Cut 2
31x4
Cut 2
32x4

3
Cut 1
34x15
Cut 2
11x4
Cut 2
32x4
Cut 2
33x4

4
Cut 1
35 x16
Cut 2
11x4
Cut 2
32x4
Cut 2
33x4

5
Cut 1
37 x 17
Cut 2
12x4
Cut 2
33x4
Cut 2
34x4

6
Cut 1
38 x 18
Cut 2
12x4
Cut 2
33x4
Cut 2
34x4

Fabric Cuts
Instructions:
*Seam Allowance is unless otherwise specified.
**Finish all seams with a serger, zig zag stitch or other method**
1. Line up short edges of the dress section with fabric right sides together and sew the back seam.
Mark the center front of the dress opposite the back seam, open the dress and match up the

center front and back and mark the sides of the dress at the top and bottom (use a long chalk
mark that extends past the seam allowance at the top and bottom)

2. Turn right side out and serge along the top of the dress bodice. If you are not using a serger,
fold the fabric over and press, then fold over another to conceal the raw edge and sew
along the hem (rolled hem). Be sure to relocate your side seam markings if you use the rolled
hem.

Serged Edge

Rolled Hem

3. Prepare the shoulder straps by folding the strip lengthwise (long edges) wrong sides together.
Open and lay strap flat right side down. Fold in one side to meet center crease and do the same
for the other side. Fold the strap in half on the original pressed seam to enclose raw edges.
Finally Top stitch around the entire strap and finish raw edges.

Fold in sides

Encase edges

Top Stitch

4. To attach straps to dress, mark the center point of the dress between the center front seam and
sides, line up the strap with this mark (matching centers) and stitch tight along the top seam
(or finished edge). Extra length is given on the straps for a customized fit, adjust to the proper
size by fitting to wearer OR sew 1 from each end of the strap (front and back) for a general fit.
(Note: the photo shows straps attached after shirring, which is an option it is easier to attach
the strap before shirring.)

Center the strap on the dress and stitch along

Top seam edge
5. To prepare dress for shirring, you will need to mark a line (using a quilters marking pen or
chalk) around the bodice as a stitching guide. Make a mark at the following measurement from
the top of the dress according to size:
Size: 1-2T
3 from top

Size: 3T-4T
4 from top

Size: 5-6
5 from top

Make additional marks as necessary at sides to trace a continuous line around the bodice.

Trace a stitching line

around the bodice
6. Prepare your machine for shirring. Using elastic thread (sold at most fabric stores or online in
the notions section. Usually comes on a spool as pictured and must be hand wound onto a
bobbin.) wind onto a bobbin by hand, be careful not to stretch the elastic or it may jam up on
the bobbin. Place regular thread on the top spool and thread your machine. Each machine is
different and it is always advised to do a sample stitch on scrap fabric before proceeding. The
general rule of thumb is to turn up the top thread tension as high as it will go (my machine is
set at 10 (usually at 5). Use a long basting stitch (my machine is set at 4, usually a 2 ) begin
sewing with the fabric right side up. Elastic thread in the bobbin will be on the wrong side of
the fabric.

Wind Elastic
on bobbin

Regular thread
on top

Bobbin with elastic thread

7. Starting at the top of the dress (with fabric right side up), use the top edge as a guide and begin
your shirring stitch beginning at the back seam. Be careful not to catch the strap selvage in the
stitches, fold it out of the way. Continue all the way around the top.

Use the top of the dress as a guide for your first row of shirring.
8. Continue to the second row of shirring beginning at the back and using the first row of shirring
as a guide. Stretch the fabric slightly to prevent tucks. Continue all the way around. We used
two rows of shirring, but it is optional to add more rows closer together or in addition to the
two at the top. The more shirring the more scrunch. Move down to the stitching line you
made in Step 4 and continue shirring. Again, we used 3 rows, but you can use more if you like.

Use the first row

As a guide

Begin your stitch

along the stitch line

Use previous rows as a guide

9. Now for the magic of shirring, make sure your iron is nice and hot and set to the highest steam
setting. Turn dress wrong side out and hold the iron about 1 above the elastic thread. Hit it
with a lot of steam. This will cause the elastic to shrink up and create the shirring.

Turn garment inside-out

Hold iron above fabric

Use lots of steam

Beautiful shirred finish

10. Prepare the lower ruffle by laying each of the pieces right-sides together, and sew the seam
along each short edge to create a circle of fabric. Fold and press the fabric in half wrong sides
together to create a 2 ruffle. **Dont forget to use regular bobbin thread*** Prepare the ruffle
by starting at one seam line along the long raw edge, use a basting stitch to sew a continuous
line around the strip 1/4 from the edge through both layers. Do not backstitch or overlap your
stitches and use the longest stitch available on your machine leaving long threads at the
beginning and end of the circle to pull up the ruffle.

Sew along edges to create circle

Fold in half

11. Pin the ruffle to the lower edge of the dress with right sides together, line up the side seams
with the side markings that you made in Step 1 and pin. Pull up the threads on the ruffle and
distribute gathers evenly. Sew to the dress ruffle side up to prevent unwanted tucks.

Pull up threads to create ruffle

Sew ruffle onto dress

12. Finish the raw edge of the ruffle and dress with Serger or zig zag stitch. Fold the ruffle down
and press with seam up. Topstitch along the edge catching the seam in the upright position.

Fold up ruffle seam and press

Top Stitch ruffle

13. Prepare tie by stitching together short edges right side together to create one long tie piece.
Fold in half lengthwise right sides together and sew along the raw edges starting at the short
edge at the crease. Sew along the short edge with a seam, at the corner with needle down,
lift presser foot and pivot fabric, lower presser foot and continue along the long edge of the tie.
Leave an opening near the center seam of the tie about 2 long. To do this, stop your stitch 1
from the center seam, lift needle and presser foot, pull threads (do not cut yet), replace fabric 1
from the other side of the seam, lower presser foot and Repeat the pivot at the other short edge.
Trim corners, cut the threads at the opening and turn the tie to the right side.

Leave an opening for turning,

Stop stitching, and pull slack
In the thread.

Continue stitching again 2 away.

Pull tie end through the opening to the

Right side.
14. Press the tie flat making sure to fold in the seam allowance at the opening. Top stitch around
the tie making sure to catch both the top and bottom seam allowance at the opening to close
securely.

Tuck in seam allowance at

opening.

Top Stitch to close

15. Option: Can be tied front, back or side. With the option to secure the tie at the back seam of
the dress matching center of the tie and stitch in place (for front or side tie).

To secure tie, pin to back seam, and stitch in place.

Congratulations!
You have completed your own Freckles On Top Creation!

Copyright 2013
Freckles on Top
San Diego, CA
All Rights Reserved. This pattern is for personal home use only and may not be sold, reproduced, transferred or copied by an y means without written
consent from Freckles on Top. Freckles on Top is not responsible for any errors in printing, workmanship or other results created by the purchaser. By
purchasing this pattern you receive a license to use the patterns, tutorials and tips inside. Purchaser is granted permission to sell items created from this
pattern and/or tutorial provided they are created personally by the purchaser in limited quantities (Each listing must contain a link back to my shop
and/or website www.etsy.com/patsycakebaby). This pattern and/or tutorial and items made from them are NOT for industrial or commercial use and
NOT licensed for boutique, clothing stores or other retail outlets and may not be distributed or sold as such. Thank you for respecting my work!