DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

QUALITY MANUAL
KUMAR & TYAGI CLOTHING

Training and Development of

Supervisor
5 May 2014

Faculty In-charge

Submitted By

Mohammad Umar
DFT

Neetek Kumar
Prashant Tyagi
DFT
SEM VI

[The document contains the Quality Manual for a self assumed company]

1|Page

1. Quality Assurance
1.1 QUALITY POLICY
Our company, KT Clothing, is committed to comply with requirements and continuosly
improve the Quality management system and supply high quality garments on time to
enhance customer satisfaction through training and involvement of employees.

1.2 QUALITY OBJECTIVES

1.

To increase the Production from the existing level every year.

2.

Continuous improvement
a)
Productivity
b)
Waste elimination
c)
House keeping

3.

To make employees multiskilled through training and development.

4.

To maintain and improve Workorder throughput time

5.

To reduce seconds percentage

2|Page

2. Quality checkpoint
NOT OK

Fabric 100% Visual inspection &

trims 10% inspection
RTS

OK

Style descriptions,

Quality check at the beginning of

the lay

Cad checking against master copy, Shrin

Re-do

NOT OK

.
OK
Check for the first ply

NOT OK

Re-do

OK

NOT OK

Re-do

Quality check in between lay

Is W.O .no, size, central line, notche

3|Page

Re
Re-Do
Re-Do
-Do
Re-Do

Check
Is Check
W.O.no,Centre
line,Repeat,Balancing,St
way
for W,O
no,forW.O
weavingno,bubbling,Fused
defect, Styleline,one
verification,
thread,Stain,lining
okay?
Centre
notch, Fabric Damage,pairing,shape,St
Is W.O.no,size,parts
bundleno,numbering,lay line
no
Issue of Quality passed cut parts to
okay?
sewing
Quality
check

Is W.O .no, size, central line, notches, straight line, repeat width, Line balancing, pairing, shade ok, defects marked

NOT OK
Re-do

NOT OK
After laying Check the following points at the
Is W.O .no, size, parts, bundle no, numbering,
lay,
start and end
ofshade
cuttingOK?
process.
Re-do

NOT OK
OK
Cut parts; check the following points
Is W.O. no., Centerline,Repeat,
Balancing,St line,one way,shade OK ?

Re-do

NOT OK
Check for W.O. no., weaving defect, Style verification, Center notch, Fabric damage, pairing, shape, St line

Re-do

NOT OK
OK
Quality check during fusing

Check for W.O no, bubbling, Fused thread, Stain, lining

Re-doNOT OK

OK

Issue of Quality passed cut parts to sewing

4|Page

Re-Work

NOT OK

Check point 1

Collar
inspection

In- line inspection by

Traffic light System

Re-Work

Collar visual
Standard, measurement collar

OK
NOT OK

Check point 2
pairing

front
Left and right front parts.
Visual standard, measurement

Re-Work

NOT OK
Check point3

OK
trimming &
inspection

Re-Work

NOT OK

Assembled shirt,
Measurement,
visual Standard.

OK

End Line AQL Audit at AQL 2.5

OK
Release to finishing

Seconds & alterations

Checkpoint 4 Final Inspection

NOT OK
Identify first quality
Seconds and rejects
Trolley wise AQL audit (2.5)

OK

5|Page

NOT OK

Folding & Packing

R
E
J
AQL
C
Offer forT final inspection
S

OK
Pre Final Audit/
Finished Stock Audit
(10%, 25% and 50%)

OK
ACCEPT
Release to Warehouse

6|Page

NOT OK

3. Quality Procedures
3.1 Fabric Inspection
No sooner Fabric is in house, The Fabric inspection report, Shrinkage report & 100% Shade
bands should be submitted within 48 hours. Fabric is to be cut only after the above reports are
submitted & only if they are approved for bulk production. 100% of the Fabric is to be
inspected on a 4 point system & if the fabric is in doubt, further 100% should be Inspected.
While submitting the Fabric Inspection reports, all trim inspection reports should be
submitted too. If Fabric is cut without been Inspected, Total responsibility will be on this
department as it is a violation of a critical aspect.

3.1.1 Fabric Inspection. ( Inspection on 4 point system )

Purpose: To decide acceptance or rejections of fabric roll (For Wovens)

Activity
1. Take the roll.

Requirement
Roll to be chosen at random

2. Check the roll as per 4 points system.

3. Give penalty points for defects.
Points / 100 sq. yd.
4. Calculate index for each individual roll.

Total points in roll * 36 * 100

Total length in yards * width in

5. Calculate final average index for the

inches.

total no. of rolls inspected.

6. Decide acceptance or rejectance of the
fabric
Record: Fabric inspection report
Classification
7|Page

PE N ALTYPO I N TS

Faults showing in the

1 point
Less than

2 points
Over 3 inch

3 points
Over 6 inch

warp direction of fabric.

3inch.

but less

but less

(Except Holes and tears).

Faults showing in the weft

Less than

than 6 inch.
Over 3 inch

than 9 inch.
Over 6 inch

direction of fabric.

3inch.

but less

but less

than 6 inch.

than 9 inch.

(Except Weave stripes,

4 points
Over 9 inch.

Over 9 inch.

weft irregularities, holes

and tears).

i). Length of the faults is to be measured in the warp or weft direction and the direction in
which the fault is longest is the fault direction. However when the warp and weft length are
same and when the penalty of the shorter direction is heavier, take the fault of the direction in
which the penalty is heavier.
ii). When the fault in the warp direction is over 1yd, the part which is over 1yd is deemed as
fault of the same kind of others.
iii). When two or more faults overlap, apply only the faults which penalty is the heaviest.
iv). When there are two or more faults within the length of 1yd and the penalty points come
over 4 points, the points over 4 points are not added.
v). The inspector needs to be at a distance of 3 feet away from the inspection table and the
linear speed of inspection not to be less than 0.1mtrs per second.

Minimum fault sizes are shown on the FABRIC DEFECT SCALE

8|Page

Knots

Slubs

A do not count
B- Count as 1 point
C- Count as 1 point
D- Count as 1 point
E- Count as 3 points

A - do not count
B - do not count
C- Count as 1 point
D- Count as 1 point
E- Count as 1 point
F- Count as 3 points
G- Count as 3 points

Standards for Passing Fabric

Average index for inspected rolls not to exceed
Maximum index for any roll not to exceed

28 points / 100yd.
40 points / 100yd.

3.1.2 100% Shade Bands

If the style is a wash garment, Before & after wash Blankets should be submitted ( 3 sets each
) covering all rolls and it has to attached in the shade continuity card. A 100% shade band
covering all rolls & all colours pertaining to a certain style / Consignment should be made &
approved prior to cutting of bulk Fabric.

PROCESS

No sooner the Fabric is in house, The Q/A department must ensure they get the panels
representing all rolls within 6 hours from Stores.

Cut 6 from end of each roll. Over lock & join all panels in correct grain line direction
to be in a Blanket form.

If the Style is a non-wash program, two sets should be prepared.

If the Style consists of a certain wash, Then 4 Blankets should be prepared. 02

Blankets non-washed & 2 Blankets with the exact approved wash of the style.

Once the Shade bands are ready, Dye lot or colour segregation has to be done. If the
Shade Band consists of 2-3 different shades, such shades should be segregated
In to families marked A, B, C Etc. A copy of the Segregation of shades should be
handed over to the Stores, Cutting, and Merchandising & Production departments.

9|Page

Stores will issue & the cutting / Production will proceed as per the segregated shades
without getting mixed.

3.1.3 Shrinkage report

A 100% Shrinkage report should be submitted for all styles and the washing shrinkage has to
be performed as per the wash type required for the bulk.

3.2 Trim Inspection report

All trims been In house should be inspected ( 10% ) & the reports submitted accordingly.

10 | P a g e

3.2.1 Trims Inspection

Purpose: To check defects and to decide Acceptance / Rejectance of trims.
Scope: Interlining, Collar bone, Label, Button, Packing Materials, Swing Ticket, Poly bag,
Product box.
ACTIVITY

REQUIREMENT

A. Interlining
1. meters of lining to be sent to lab.

EPI / PPI and GSM

a. Bond strength
1. Take 10 * 4 of fabric strip and lining
strip.
2. Cut rectangular slit 6*1 in Tissue
paper of 8 4.
3. Sandwich Tissue paper between
interlining and fabric then fuse.
4. Check Pull strength.
If by varying fusing conditions sufficient
strength is not achieved the lot is rejected.

Note the temperature, pressure and

speed.

Pull strength to be at least 1 kg /

sq.cm.

b. Shrinkage Test
1. Send two collars to lab every day for
shrinkage test.
c. Visual Inspection
1. Select the roll as per sampling plan.
Reject the lot if not ok.

Record: Interlining Inspection report.

11 | P a g e

Check for uniformity, micro dots,

uniformity of shade.

ACTIVITY

REQUIREMENT

B. Labels
a. Visual Examination
1. Check lettering, color, edges as per the
Master and Specifications.

b. Color fastness test

1. Take few labels get it stitched on the
white fabric.
2. Wash with soap and wash petrol.

No weaving defects.
Shade continuity.
Smooth and straight edges.
Centered labels.

No color bleeding.

If color bleeds rejects the lots.

Note: Selection Of all trims for the inspection to be as per sampling plan.

ACTIVITY

C. Buttons
Check buttons for shade, chip around the
edge.
Get stitched 10 buttons breaks stitched in
machine.
If any one button breaks, then check for
10 more buttons.

REQUIREMENT
Uniform in shade, gauge.
No chip.
NO breakage
No breakage.

If there is breakage reject the lot.

D. Packing Material
1. Check edges, slots and slot spacing.

12 | P a g e

Even edges for all the trims.

Slots and Slot spacing as per the
specifications.

ACTIVITY

E. Swing ticket
1. Inspect visually the lettering.

REQUIREMENT
No stains and misprints.

F. Product Box
1. Check for lettering, hinge, marks and
color.

No misprints and spread hues

G. Polycovers
1. Check for lettering, uniformity and
scratches.

No misprinting and spread hues. Shade

continuity to be maintained.

H. Collarbones
1. Check for edges and points.
2. Stick few collarbones on fabric to
check for glue.
If gum is insufficient, reject the lot.

Record: Trims inspection report.

13 | P a g e

No cut edges, point to be as per

specification.
Should fix firmly to the fabric.

3.3 SIZE SET

Bulk production cannot be started without the QA Department approving the Size set for each
new style. Once the size set is approved, The Pattern should be checked & authorized by this
department for utilization.

3.4 PP MEETING
A PP meeting should be organized & conducted prior to bulk production including Buyers
Representative, Merchandiser, Production Manager & all sectional heads, Supervisors &
Q/Cs involved with the particular style. No Production is to start without a PP Meeting & all
points to be discussed & documented in the PP meeting format. The QA Manager or the
Technical Manager should write down the minutes & file the PP meeting comments in the
style file Technical, Quality, Packing, Washing, Shipping ETC.

3.5 PILOT RUN

Once the Production submits the Pilot run, Bulk production should be approved based on the
performance of this cut. If it is not satisfactory, a new pilot run should be made.

3.6 MOCK UPS PREPARATION

After the handover meeting of the style to the production floor, the style requirements as
discussed in the meeting should be converted into the visual standards and displayed at all
relevant work stations as guide for the work.

3.7 TEST TO FAILURE

Purpose Testing mock up pieces (36) to demonstrate consistency in fabric, threads, machinery. The
test pieces are pulled with a force until they are destroyed establishing the kilograms at
which they are break apart.
Results details- are recorded as = Z factor.
Where there is a consistent result the Z factor will be 4 or above Pass.
Where there is inconsistency the Z factor will be less than 4 Fail.

14 | P a g e

Importance
These tests and the documentation are our evidence of the control to ensure the product we
make is safe. It also allows us to identify if there is any inconsistency which we need address
to improve the product safety.The TTF results are required to accompany the master style file
and should be discused at the time of hand over meeting.

3.8 PULL TESTS

Purpose
To ensure the application is button, stud, snap can withstand a set kilogram of pulling. The
recommendations are specified by our customer at 7 kg per single pull but as a safe guard
MGEL recommend our procedure is pulled at 8 kg.
Importance
To ensure the application can withstand the desired amount of strain in normal wearing
conditions. 5 Pcs randomly must be monitored closely due to product safety.

3.9 DURABILITY WASH

Purpose
This wash test is carried out in the laboratory to ensure the garments construction is robust
(strong). The laboratory test highlights any change to the following areas: Seam breakdown,
fused components, change to colour appearnace, optical brightner and fabric handle, effects
on accessories, colour fastness, pleat sharpness and any wadding. The wash is carried out at
10 degrees higher than the recommended label wash tempreture. The laboratory also need a
garment reference- for the pre-wash inspection and then the after wash inspection. 3 garments
minimum requirement.
Importance
To ensure all our methods, fabric and trim accessories are suitable to the style and will
perform over numerous times of wear. To prevent customer returns and customer
dissatisfaction.

15 | P a g e

3.10 CUTTING DEPARTMENT

3.10.1 Laying & Cutting area

Rolls segregated & lay as per shrinkage option or shade band separation in case of
wash & non wash program respectively.
Relaxation of Fabric for Stretch & Knit at least for 12 Hours and fabric relaxation
report maintained.

3.10.2 Markers Check

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

Marker Way
All parts All parts are there in the marker.
Ratio Size ratios as written on the marker.
Shrinkage whether made as per shrinkage option mentioned.
Skip whether any cut line is skipped.
Overlap check for any part overlapped.
Grain line all parts in grain line as per required.
Marker length as per mentioned.

3.10.3 Prior to Spreading

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Fabric Quality report.

Shrinkage report.
Rolls width to be laid.
Rolls shrinkage to be laid.
Rolls shade to be laid.

3.10.4 Spreading
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.

Table marks check for the table marks as per the lay length.
Bowing check for bowing in the fabric
Narrow goods check for any narrow goods.
Mis-alignment of plies plies alignment at both ends.
Leaning check at the edges for leaning
Ply Tension check for ply tension
Count whether plies are counted correctly.
Nap direction whether required nap direction is followed.
End loss check for end losses.

While spreading all the defects identified in the fabric inspection stage should be marked
using a contrast color waste fabric stripe.

16 | P a g e

3.10.5 After Cutting

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Grain direction
Notches
Ragged cut
Selvedge
Bowing

Ticketing (numbering) should be done on the same cutting table.

The cut panel having contrast colour stripe should be inspected before ticketing for the
defects.

3.10.6 FUSING PROCEDURES

Fusing has to be carried out as per the conditions specified by the interlining supplier, every
four hours one sample of the fused component has to sent for washing and peel bond strength
testing and also the testing of the temp, pressure and time has to be carried out. In case of
failure on any of these all the bundles fused in last 4 hours on that machine has to be recalled
and refused. During fusing the fusing operator has to follow work instructions as mentioned
in the work instructions sheet for fusing.

Fusing
Recall all bundles fused in last 4 hours
testing, temperature testing, pressure testing, time testing

Issue to sewing lines

17 | P a g e

3.10.6.1 Testing procedures for fusing

Testing procedure for various test mentioned above are as follows
Temperature
Using three thermo-paper strips take the temperature across the width of the press or machine
belt.
Check and record the temperature with the recommended speed and fusing time.
The press will need to be adjusted if variation of more than 5C below or 10C above the
recommended fusing temperature is recorded.
Time
Check time with a stopwatch for the actual period for which temperature and pressure is
applied on the fused composite.
Washing
Carry out durability wash test daily on the fused components per fabric per colour.
Peel Bond Strength
Use three strips of fabric, each15x5cms, placed evenly across the belt, position the interlining
to cover the fabric with no overlap
Set the recommended fusing conditions for bulk production and allow it to cool.
Conduct peel bond strength test
Ensure an even bond and acceptable peel bond strength before production.
Fusing all Interlining fusing has to be ready finished (block cut)
a. Woven interlining Sewing allowance to be .
b. Non fusible woven - ----do--------The entire interlining pattern has to be aligned with shell pattern 1/8" less all around
For order size more than 2000 pcs for lining cutting die should be used.

18 | P a g e

3.10.7 Assorting & Bundling

The ready to feed bundle should be checked for the following defects
Whether numbers are correct.
Actual quantity as compared to mentioned
Cut parts check against hard pattern.
Shade variation in cut parts with same number.
Fusing defects etc.
3.11 Sewing floor
Quality control on the product, Packing & stacking should be maintained at the highest level.
A full functional traffic light system should be maintained at all times. Statistical process
controlling ( SPC ) should be implemented for every line to minimize rejections. No Garment
should be passed with inferior quality & rectification to be made with immediate effect &
documented.

3.11.1 Traffic Light System.

This System is a very effective approach in curtailing & discontinuing defected panels &
garments with discrepancies from moving in the Line. There are three colors to identify the
progress of the operator & the quality.
Green, Amber & Red bag with the Instructions of Operation descriptions to be audited.
* Green If this color is flagged by the Line Q/C on top of a machine, it indicates that
the Operation is under control & of good standing & could proceed to the next operation or
machine.
* Amber - If this color is flagged, it high lights that the Operation produced by the
Operator is in a tolerance margin & needs close observation from Superiors.
* Red If the Line Q/C has flagged this color on top of a machine, you should halt
the machine & the operation immediately & rectify same without any delay & ensure the
productivity is not affected. In the same time the Line Q/C must record Instruction paper
what is in color bag & her operation file to follow up & same Q/C will issue a Pink token to
the Supervisor to rectify same & to follow up in three consecutive instances in the same

19 | P a g e

Operation (To Ensure 0 defects are maintained in a particular Operation) & cross check with
the Q/A.
The roaming Q/C must continue for each & every machine Incorporating the same process
in the Line (Not more than 32 machines per line), Minimum four times a day.
Each Line Q/A dept should have two In process Audit stations for 100% components
check with the defect statistics maintained which could be analyzed hourly on each
Operation to rectify prior to an Assembling Garments.
Each end Line should have a QA Audit station performing 100% Inspection of Garments
prior to moving to the next Process & the Defects to be maintained in the Defect Analysis
Report.
No inline & end line checkers should have trimmers.

3.11.2 AQL Audit

Apart from the 100% Inspection at End Line, the Q/A Dept should Audit the Merchandise
randomly to ensure the Quality standard set by MGEL. Each Auditor should cover 5
Production lines & every hour as per the given AQL. If the Standard is acceptable as per the
below stipulated table, The Goods can be processed for the next Operation. However if the
Merchandise is not up to the required Criteria, Total Qty should be returned back to the
Production Line for immediate rectification & the same Auditor should closely Monitor until
the rectification is complete. You have to strictly adhere to maintain an AQL level of 1.5
during Inline Inspections.

3.11.3 Random Measurement Audit.

The QA dept should inspect measurements of Garments randomly covering all styles, Color
& Sizes to ensure the Merchandise is meeting the required Specification before & after wash.

3.11.4 Finishing AQL Audit

The QA dept should inspect packed pieces before it is packed into the cartons on the AQL
basis.

20 | P a g e

3.11.5 Pre Final Audit

Prior to handing over merchandise for final Audit to Buyers, the Q/C department should do
an interim Inspection & submit copies of the reports to the G/M Production & marketing,
Production Manager & the relevant Merchandiser for each P/O. This is Mandatory. A count &
accuracy report should be submitted as well.

3.11.6 Outgoing Quality Level

All the external audit reports should be compiled into one final report with the defect penalty
points will expressed as percentage of total defectives found over the total quantity shipped
out for that month. Also a report of total external audits failed over total external audits faced
in that month should also be prepared.

3.11.7 Reports
All inspection in Production & finishing should be daily documented by using Inline reports
& a copy of these reports should be submitted to the relevant Merchandiser at least twice a
week without fail.

3.11.8 Samples
The QA Department should submit the following samples, T.O.P Within 3 days of bulk
input as per buyers required size & Shipment samples as per buyers requirement, one day
before final audit. This should be strictly adhered to.
i) It is mandatory that all Line Quality Supervisors & controllers should patrol their
respective lines on a daily basis prior to starting bulk production in the morning to ensure that
the Line is geared to Produce high quality Apparels.
* The following aspects should be taken in to awareness,
a) Cleanliness of the Floor No Garments, Dust, Stickers, Stains etc to be on floor.
b) Cleanliness of Machines
1) Well cleaned without any dust.
21 | P a g e

2) Oil level & Stains on M/C to be checked.

3) Needles to be checked & should be fluff free & not blunt.
4) Any M/C with Red flags on & if, Mechanic to be questioned.
c) Check for Reject Garments No Reject garment is to be brought forward from the
previous day without been rectified. All Reject Garments should be rectified on the same day
& not kept separately inside the line.

22 | P a g e