The Sisig, behind myths and legends

By Deux Quijanos
Photos by Richard Pasigon

So much had been said about the Sisig. There are big raves and flattering
reviews about this delectable Filipino dish that a renowned authority on food,
Anthony Bourdain, even claimed that its probably the best pork dish in
the world. But lo, let us look closely, behind all those myths and stories
about this legendary dish, that goes so well with beerany beer in the world,
are slivers of pork cheeks and ears, onions, lime or kalamansi, chicken
liver, and hundreds or so of ingredients.
With probably thousands of versions bynow, there are arguments as to where
in the Philippines the Sisig really came from, and what is its pure,
unadulterated form--- preparation, cooking, and taste--- the most delicious
perhaps? Ah Sisig, in its original form and intention, till it became warped
beyond recognition.
If experts are to be asked just so myths and urban legends can be dispelled,
they will probably point you to Pampanga, on the plains of Central Luzon, the
land of the Kapampangans, as its place of origin.
Sisig has always been Kapampngan, this will always be the vehement claim
of Pampanga natives. To describe its pure form, Sisig is not sizzling Tagalog
adobo or chopped pig lungs and heart called bopis. It is not sautd pork nor
does it come with a raw egg on top as popularized by many Manila
restaurants or even some Filipino restaurants abroad. Its not necessarily
serve on a sizzling plate. Sisig Babi (pork ssig) is closer to Tokwa't Baboy and
Kinlaw. Also, true Kapampangans will tell you it does not have to be Sisig
Babi (pork sisig) all the time. The region also makes/cooks Banana Heart
Sisig, Bamboo Shoot Sisig and scores of other sour concoctions.
The modest origin of the Sisig actually was a dish reserved for expectant
mothers. It did not start out as an accompaniment to beer or any other
alcoholic drinks. Wikipedia and other media outfit erroneously reported that
Sisig was invented by Aling Lucing. Preposterously, unless Aling Lucing is
already alive in 1732, when the Spanish friar Diego Bergao recorded it in his
Vocabulario de la Lengua Pampanga, then she is the originator of Sisig!
Milestones in the development of the Sisig as we know it today were as
follow:

It was Kadok Dinio, of the Dinio clan of barrio Agapito del Rosario
(Rizalian) in Angeles City who first served Pork Sisig as an

accompaniment to alcoholic drinks at the railroad crossing in Angeles

in the mid-1970s. At that time, Pork Sisig was made of pig's ears and
chicken liver boiled in herbs, drained, chopped and then served as cold
cuts dressed in spiced native lemon juice, onions and chili peppers.

Aling Lucing Cunanan, who owned the stall next to the Dinio's at
Angeles' railroad crossing, reinvented Kadok Dinio's recipe of Pork Sisg
in the late 1970s by replacing pig's ear with pig's cheeks, which she
claimed to obtain for free at the former Clark Airbase, and grilled it
instead of simply boiling it and serving it cold with a spicy
citrus/vinegar dressing like they usually did..

As per account of Mayor Ed Pamintuan of Angeles City, it was his

brother, the late Benedict Pamintuan, who first thought of serving Pork
Sisig on a sizzling plate at his small restaurant at the Sugay residence
(his wife's family) on Dlan Lakandl in Angeles City in the early
1980s. He called it SSIG BENEDICT. He borrowed the sizzling plates
from their mother Lilia D. Pamintuan who was also a well known cook.

Aling Lucing's creativity and enterprising character enabled her to outlast

most of her competitors. She was even labeled as Sisig Queen. Although
Aling Lucing is closely identified with Sisig, owning numerous restaurant
outlets now in the country, any Kapampangan, especially the ones from
Angeles City, takes pride that they were blessed with such delicious dish, and
without so much effort, will cook you Sisig thats even way more delectable
than the rest of the world!