Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
The best way to diagnose a bad carburetor is to eliminate all other possible sources of
the problem. If the carburetor is suspected to be the problem, first perform all of the
adjustments given in this Section. If this doesn't correct the difficulty, then check the
following. Check the ignition system to make sure that the spark plugs, breaker points,
and condenser are in good condition and adjusted to the proper specifications. Examine
the emission control equipment to make sure that all the vacuum lines are connected
and none are blocked or clogged. Check the ignition timing adjusting. Check all the
vacuum lines on the engine for loose connections, splits or breaks. Torque the
carburetor and intake manifold attaching bolts to the proper specifications. If, after
performing all of these checks and adjustments, the problem is still not solved, then you
can safely assume that the carburetor is the source of the problem.
ADJUSTMENTS
Idle Mixture
NOTE: For this procedure, Ford recommends a propane enrichment procedure.
This requires special equipment not available to the general public. In lieu of this
equipment the following procedure may be followed to obtain a satisfactory idle
mixture.
1. Block the wheels, set the parking brake and run the engine to bring it to normal
operating temperature.
2. Disconnect the hose between the emission canister and the air cleaner.
3. On engines equipped with the Thermactor air injection system, the routing of the
vacuum lines connected to the dump valve will have to be temporarily changed.
Mark them for reconnection to prevent switching them when reconnecting.
4. For valves with one or two vacuum lines at the side, disconnect and plug the
lines.
5. For valves with one vacuum line at the top, check the line to see if it is connected
to the intake manifold or an intake manifold source such as the carburetor or
distributor vacuum line. If not, remove and plug the line at the dump valve and
connect a temporary length of vacuum hose from the dump valve fitting to a
source of intake manifold vacuum.
6. Remove the limiter caps from the mixture screws by CAREFULLY cutting them
with a sharp knife.
7. Place the transmission in neutral and run the engine at 2,500 rpm for 15
seconds.
8. Place the automatic transmission in Drive; the manual in neutral.
9. Adjust the idle speed to the higher of the two figures given on the underhood
sticker.
10. Turn the idle mixture screw(s) to obtain the highest possible rpm, leaving the
screw(s) in the leanest position that will maintain this rpm.
11. Repeat Steps 7 through 10 until further adjustment of the mixture screw(s) does
not increase the rpm.
12. Turn the screw(s) in until the lower of the two idle speed figures is reached. Turn
the screw(s) in 14 turn increments each to insure a balance.
13. Turn the engine off and remove the tachometer. Reinstall all equipment
previously removed.
NOTE: Rough idle, that cannot be corrected by normal service procedures
may be caused by leakage between the EGR valve body and diaphragm. To
determine if this is the cause: Tighten the EGR bolts to 15 ft.lb. Connect a
vacuum gauge to the intake manifold. Lift to exert a sideways pressure on
the diaphragm housing. If the idle changes or the reading on the vacuum
gauge varies, replace the EGR valve
1. Remove the carburetor air horn and gasket from the carburetor.
2. Invert the air horn assembly, and check the clearance from the top of the float to
the bottom of the air horn. Hold the air horn at eye level when gauging the float
level. The float arm (lever) should be resting on the needle pin. Do not load the
needle when adjusting the float. Bend the float arm as necessary to adjust the
float level (clearance). Do not bend the tab at the end of the float arm, because it
prevents the float from striking the bottom of the fuel bowl when empty.
3. Turn the air horn over and hold it upright and let the float hang free. Measure the
maximum clearance from the top of the float to the bottom of the air horn with the
float gauge. Hold the air horn at eye level when gauging the dimension. To adjust
the float drop, bend the tab at the end of the float arm.
4. Install the carburetor air horn with a new gasket.
vertical distance between the cast surface of the upper body and the
bottom of the float.
C. To adjust, bend the stop tab on the float lever away from the hinge pin to
increase the setting and toward the hinge pin to decrease the setting.
6. Reinstall the upper body assembly and new gasket.
NOTE: The fuel pump pressure and volume must be to specifications prior to
performing the following adjustments.
1. Operate the engine to normalize engine temperatures and place the vehicle on a
flat surface.
2. Remove the air cleaner, and run the engine at 1,000 rpm for about 30 seconds to
stabilize the fuel level.
3. Stop the engine and remove the sight plug on the side of the primary carburetor
bowl.
4. Check the fuel level. It should be at the bottom of the sight plug hole. If fuel spills
out when the sight plug is removed, lower the fuel level. If the fuel level is below
the sight glass hole, raise the fuel level.
CAUTION
Do not loosen the lock screw or nut, or attempt to adjust the fuel level with the
sight glass plug removed or the engine running as fuel may spray out creating a
fire hazard.
5. Adjust the front level as necessary by loosening the lock screw, and turning the
adjusting nut clockwise to lower fuel level, or counterclockwise to raise fuel level.
A 116 turn of the adjusting nut will change fuel level approximately 132 inch
(0.8mm). Tighten the locking screw and install the sight plug, using the old
gasket. Start the engine and run for about 30 seconds at 1,000 rpm to stabilize
the fuel level.
6. Stop the engine, remove the sight plug and check the fuel level. Repeat step 5
until the fuel level is at the bottom of the sight plug hole, install the sight plug
using a new adjusting plug gasket.
7. Repeat steps 3 through 6 for the secondary fuel bowl.
NOTE: The secondary throttle must be used to stabilize the fuel level in the
secondary fuel bowl.
8. Install the air cleaner.
1. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect and plug the vacuum lines.
2. Block the wheels, apply the parking brake, turn off all accessories, start the
engine and run it to normalize underhood temperatures.
3. Check that the choke plate is fully open and connect a tachometer according to
the manufacturer's instructions.
4. Check the throttle stop positioner (TSP) off speed as follows: Collapse the
plunger by forcing the throttle lever against it. Place the transmission in neutral
and check the engine speed. If necessary, adjust to specified TSP Off speed with
the throttle adjusting screw. See the underhood sticker.
5. Place the manual transmission in neutral; the automatic in Drive and make
certain the TSP plunger is extended.
8. Place the transmission in Neutral or Park. Rev the engine momentarily. Place the
transmission in Drive position and recheck curb idle rpm. Readjust if required.
9. Remove the plug from the vacuum hose to the VOTM kicker and reconnect.
10. Reconnect the electrical connector on the EVAP purge solenoid.
1983 and Later 8302 (5.0L) & 351 (5.8L) Canada 21502V
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6. Connect a slave vacuum hose from an engine manifold vacuum source to the
decel throttle control kicker.
7. Run engine at approximately 2,500 rpm for 15 seconds, then release the throttle.
8. If decel throttle control rpm is not within plus or minus 50 rpm of specification,
adjust the kicker.
9. Disconnect the slave vacuum hose and allow engine to return to curb idle.
10. Adjust curb idle, if necessary, using the curb idle adjusting screw.
11. Rev the engine momentarily, recheck curb idle and adjust if necessary.
12. Reconnect the decel throttle control vacuum hose to the diaphragm.
13. Reinstall the air cleaner.
Holley 4180-C 4V
Fig. 3: Holley 4180C 4-bbl fast idle adjustment
1. Set the parking brake, block the wheels, place the transmission in neutral or park
and remove the air cleaner.
2. Bring the engine to normal operating temperature.
3. Disconnect the vacuum hoses at the EGR valve and the purge control valves and
plug.
4. Place the fast idle adjustment on the specified step of the fast idle cam. Check
and adjust the fast idle rpm to the specifications found on the Exhaust Emission
Control Decal on the engine.
5. Rev the engine momentarily, place the fast idle adjustment on the specified step
and recheck the fast idle rpm.
6. Remove the plug from the EGR valve and the purge control valves and
reconnect.
DASHPOT ADJUSTMENT
1. Remove the air cleaner.
2. Loosen the anti-stall dashpot locknut.
3. With the choke plate open, hold the throttle plate closed (idle position), and check
the clearance between the throttle lever and the dashpot plunger tip with a feeler
gauge
1. Using a feeler gauge and with the primary throttle plates in the wide open
position, there should be 0.015 inch (0.381mm) clearance between the
accelerator pump operating lever adjustment screw head and the pump arm
when the pump arm is depressed manually.
2. If adjustment is required, hold the adjusting screw locknut and turn the adjusting
screw inward to increase the clearance and out to decrease the clearance. One
half turn on the adjusting screw is approximately 0.015 inch (0.381mm).
The accelerating pump stroke has been factory set for a particular engine application
and should not be readjusted. If the stroke has been changed from the specified hole
reset to specifications by following these procedures.
1. To release the rod from the retaining clip, lift upward on the portion of the clip that
snaps over the shaft and then disengage the rod.
2. Position the clip over the specified hole in the overtravel lever and insert the
operating rod through the clip and the overtravel lever. Snap the end of the clip
over the rod to secure.
Holley 4180-C 4V
Fig. 2: Holley 4180C accelerator pump system
The accelerator pump stroke has been set to help keep the exhaust emission level of the
engine within the specified limits. The additional holes provided (if any) for pump stroke
adjustment are for adjusting the stroke for specific engine applications. The stroke
should not be changed from the specified setting.
Motorcraft 2150
Fig. 1: Autolite 2150 choke plate pulldown adjustment
Holley 4180-C
Fig. 2: Holley 4180C 4-bbl choke pulldown adjustment
1. Remove the air cleaner. Then remove the carburetor from the vehicle and cover
the intake manifold.
2. Place the carburetor on a stand which allows access to the pulldown diaphragm
vacuum passage on the underside of the throttle body.
3. Mark the choke cap and housing. Then remove the choke cap, gasket and
retainer.
4. Reinstall the choke cap temporarily with a standard choke cap gasket. Line up
the marks made previously on the cap and the housing and rotate the cap 90
degrees counterclockwise from that position. Secure with one screw.
5. With the choke plate in the full closed position, actuate the choke pulldown motor
using an outside vacuum source, 17 in.Hg minimum.
6. Using a drill gauge of the specified size check the clearance between the upper
edge of the choke plate and the air horn wall.
NOTE: The gauge should fit in such a manner that it contacts the air horn
and choke plate but does not move the plate.
7. If the pulldown dimension is out of specification, carefully remove the diaphragm
adjustment screw cap with a small sharp punch or screw driver.
8. Turn the adjustment screw with a 516 inch Allen wrench clockwise to decrease
the pulldown set or counterclockwise to increase the pulldown set.
NOTE: Maintain a minimum of 17 in.Hg to the pulldown diaphragm during
adjustment. Cycle vacuum from 017 in.Hg to verify proper set.
9. Apply RTV sealant to the adjustment screw cavity and check the fast idle cam
index adjustment.
To adjust the fast idle cam index:
10. With the choke cap still wrapped, and with vacuum applied to the diaphragm,
cycle the throttle. The fast idle screw should rest on the No. 2 step of the fast idle
cam.
11. If the fast idle cam requires adjustment, turn the Allen adjustment screw
clockwise to position the fast idle screw higher on the No. 2 step or
counterclockwise to position the fast idle screw lower on the No. 2 step.
12. Remove the temporary choke plate gasket, install the original locking gasket,
choke cap and choke cap retainer. Secure with breakaway screws and check the
dechoke adjustment.
To adjust the dechoke:
13. Reinstall the choke cap at the proper index using one screw.
14. Hold the throttle in the wide open position.
15. Apply light closing pressure to the choke plate and measure the gap between the
lower edge of the choke plate and the air horn wall.
16. To adjust, bend the pawl on the fast idle lever.
DECHOKE ADJUSTMENT
All Except Holley 4180C-4V
1. Remove the air cleaner.
2. Hold the throttle plate fully open and close the choke plate as far as possible
without forcing it. Use a drill of the proper diameter to check the clearance
between the choke plate and air horn.
3. If the clearance is not within specification, adjust by bending the arm on the
choke trip lever. Bending the arm downward will increase the clearance, and
bending it upward will decrease the clearance. Always recheck the clearance
after making any adjustment.
4. If the choke plate clearance and fast idle cam linkage adjustment was performed
with the carburetor on the engine, adjust the engine idle speed and fuel mixture.
Adjust the dashpot (if so equipped).
OVERHAUL
Efficient carburetion depends greatly on careful cleaning and inspection during overhaul
since dirt, gum, water or varnish in or on the carburetor parts are often responsible for
poor performance.
Overhaul the carburetor in a clean, lint-free area. Carefully disassemble the carburetor,
referring often to the exploded views. Keep all similar and look-alike parts segregated
during disassembly and cleaning to avoid accidental interchange during assembly. Make
a note of all jet sizes.
When the carburetor is disassembled, wash all metal parts (except diaphragms, electric
choke unit, pump plunger and any other plastic, leather, fiber, or rubber parts) in clean
carburetor solvent. Do not leave the parts in the solvent any longer than is necessary to
sufficiently loosen the dirt and deposits. Excessive cleaning may remove the special
finish from the float bowl and choke valve bodies, leaving these parts unfit for service.
Rinse all parts in clean solvent and blow them dry with compressed air or allow them to
air dry, while resting on clean, lint-free paper. Wipe clean all cork, plastic, leather and
fiber parts with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Blow out all passages and jets with compressed air and be sure that there are no
restrictions or blockages. Never use wire or similar tools to clean jets, fuel passages or
air bleeds. Clean all jets and valves separately to avoid accidental interchange.
Examine all parts for wear or damage. If wear or damage is found, replace the defective
parts. Especially, inspect the following:
1. Check the float needle and seat for wear. If wear is found, replace the complete
assembly.
2. Check the float hinge pin for wear and the float(s) for dents or distortion. Replace
the float if fuel has leaked into it.
3. Check the throttle and choke shaft bores for wear or an out-of-round condition.
Damage or wear to the throttle arm, shaft or shaft bore will often require
replacement of the throttle body. These parts require a close tolerance of fit;
wear may allow air leakage, which could affect starting and idling.
NOTE: Throttle shafts and bushings are not normally included in overhaul
kits. They can be purchased separately.
4. Inspect the idle mixture adjusting needles for burrs or grooves. Any such
condition requires replacement of the needle, since you will not be able to obtain
a satisfactory idle.
5. Test the accelerator pump check valves. They should pass air one way, but not
the other. Test for proper seating by blowing and sucking on the valve. Replace
the valve as necessary. If the valve is satisfactory, wash the valve again to
remove moisture.
6. Check the bowl cover for warped surfaces with a straightedge.
7. Closely inspect the valves and seats for wear and damage, replacing as
necessary.
8. After the carburetor is assembled, check the choke valve for freedom of
operation.
Carburetor overhaul kits are recommended for each overhaul. These kits contain
all gaskets and new parts to replace those which deteriorate most rapidly. Failure
to replace all of the parts supplied with the kit (especially gaskets) can result in
poor performance later.
NOTE: Most carburetor rebuilding kits include specific procedures which
should be following during overhaul.
Most carburetor manufacturers supply overhaul kits of these basic types: minor
repair; major repair; and gasket kits. Basically, they contain the following:
Minor Repair Kits:
o
o
o
o
o
All gaskets
Float needle valve
Mixture adjusting screws
All diaphragms
Spring for the pump diaphragm
Gasket Kits:
o
All gaskets
After cleaning and checking all components, reassemble the carburetor, using
new parts and referring to the exploded view. When reassembling, make sure
that all screws and jets are tight in their seats, but do not overtighten, as the tips
will be distorted. Tighten all screws gradually, in rotation. Do not tighten needle
valves into their seats; uneven jetting will result. Always use new gaskets. Be
sure to adjust the float level.