Convertible High-Heels Design

Convertible High-Heels Design
MA DESIGN INNOVATION
FOOTWEAR DESIGN
AUGUST 2011
Chang Pei-Yu
Aug-2011
Dissertation-Design Innovation MA
AUG 2011
Designing convertible high-heeled shoes

for the expression of either
a formal or a casual form
De Montfort University
Design Innovation (MA)

Chang Pei-Yu
Email: peiyu.patty@gmail.com
AUG 2011
AUG 2011
I. Abstract
This dissertation is a critical appraisal of the design innovation program, offered by De Montfort
University, at Masters level. The fundamentals of the program are discussed analytically, firstly,
by way of introduction to the research. The aims, objectives and design processes are described
for the convertible high-heeled shoe, to reduce the long-term walking effects of women who wear
high-heeled shoes for extended periods of time. The aim of this project is to design a shoe with
replaceable heels and a unique insole to allow the shoe to switch forms between high-heeled
formal and low-heeled comfortable footwear, while retaining an elegant look.
Beginning with secondary research, a literature review covering the history of high heels, foot
ergonomics, materials, construction and technology of high-heel design was undertaken, sourced
from books, journals, magazines and the internet. Primary research gathered first-hand
information of the target market. Through conducting market research and questionnaire analysis,
data was obtained which would inform and develop ideas into design rationales.
Incorporating the primary and secondary research, a process of sketching, pattern making on up
to final prototype development was followed. Afterwards, testing was conducted to collect
feedback from the target groups together with the designer, providing information for future
research.
Finally, a general summary and conclusion integrate the dissertations outcomes and
recommendations of innovative concepts are made for further research and development.
AUG 2011
II. Acknowledgements
I would like to take this opportunity to thank all the people were involved in this research project
and those who have supported me during MA course and assisted me with life in the U.K. Firstly,
I would like thank the academic staff of the MA Design Innovation course, in particular, Dr.
Robert Chen. He not only taught students how to develop major projects, but also provided us
with broader knowledge during our studies of life in the U.K.
I wish to thank other tutors, especially to the footwear professor Phil and Christine, the tutor
throughout the whole course who assisted me in footwear shoemaking and design with pattern
development knowledge. Their guidance and advice allowed me to successfully complete my
major projects prototype. Furthermore, I would like to thank Jan and Larry who helped to
improve my presentation and academic writing abilities over the course of the year.
Finally, I want to thank to all my dear friends even in Taiwan or those I came to know whilst here
in the U.K., who assisted and encouraged me during the year. Without their valued support and
advice, this experience in the U.K. would not have been as successful as it has indeed been for
me.
AUG 2011
Contents
Convertible High-Heels Design .................................................................................................................. 1
I. Abstract .................................................................................................................................................... 4
II. Acknowledgements................................................................................................................................. 5
Chapter 1: Introduction............................................................................................................................ 10
1.1 Motivation ............................................................................................................................................ 18
1.2 Aims & Objectives .............................................................................................................................. 18
1.3 Background Information .................................................................................................................... 18
1.4 Methodology ........................................................................................................................................ 18
1.5 Project Management ........................................................................................................................... 18
1.6 Summary of Introduction ................................................................................................................... 18
Chapter 2: Literature review ................................................................................................................... 17
2.1 Literature searching plan ................................................................................................................... 18
2.1.1 Aim and objectives ........................................................................................................................... 18
2.1.2 Research plan.................................................................................................................................... 19
2.2 Researches and information Gathering (history of high-heels) ...................................................... 19
2.2.1 Background and theory ................................................................................................................... 19
2.2.2 High-heels category style and influence ......................................................................................... 21
2.2.3 Ergonomics of foot design................................................................................................................ 23
2.3 Materials .............................................................................................................................................. 27
2.3.1 Introduction material considerations for the manufacture of high-heels ................................ 27
2.3.2 Materials and Technology ............................................................................................................... 27
2.4 Construction ........................................................................................................................................ 28
2.4.1 Introduction of high-Heel design structure.................................................................................... 28
2.4.2 High-Heels design of Techniques .................................................................................................... 29
2.5 Technology in heels and heels design................................................................................................. 31
2.5.1 High-Heels Design Issues and Ideas................................................................................................ 31
2.5.2 High-Heels Design Issues and Ideas into my major project ......................................................... 33
2.6 Summary .............................................................................................................................................. 33
Chapter 3: Market Research.................................................................................................................... 35
3.1 Introduction ......................................................................................................................................... 36
3.2 Aim & Objectives ................................................................................................................................ 36
3.3 Target Market...................................................................................................................................... 37
3.4 Product Analysis.................................................................................................................................. 39
3.5 Design Rationales ................................................................................................................................ 40
3.6 Summary .............................................................................................................................................. 41

Chapter 4: Primary Research .................................................................................................................. 42
4.1 Introduction ......................................................................................................................................... 43
4.2 Aim and Objectives ............................................................................................................................. 43
4.3 Questionnaire & Interview ................................................................................................................. 44
4.3.1 Question Analysis ............................................................................................................................. 44
4.3.2 Interview Analysis ............................................................................................................................ 50
4.4 Design Rationales ................................................................................................................................ 52
4.5 Summary .............................................................................................................................................. 52
Chapter 5: Design And Development ...................................................................................................... 53
5.2 Introduction ......................................................................................................................................... 54
5.2 Design Processes .................................................................................................................................. 54
5.2. 1 Initial idea Development ................................................................................................................. 57
5.2.2 Final Design Rationales.................................................................................................................... 57
5.2.3 Development of Final Sketches ....................................................................................................... 57
5.2.4 Development of Patterns.................................................................................................................. 59
5.2.5 Development of Prototypes.............................................................................................................. 61
5.2.6 Testing interview .............................................................................................................................. 64
5.3 Summary .............................................................................................................................................. 65
Chapter 6: General Discussion................................................................................................................. 66
6.1 Reflection on the project..................................................................................................................... 68
6.2 Reflection on the Design Innovation (MA) Experience.................................................................... 68
Chapter 7: Conclusion & Recommendations.......................................................................................... 69
7.1 Conclusionse ........................................................................................................................................ 70
7.2 Recommendations ............................................................................................................................... 71
Chapter 8: References & Bibliography ................................................................................................... 72
Chapter 9: Appendices.............................................................................................................................. 76
Appendices1 ............................................................................................................................................... 76
Appendices2 ............................................................................................................................................... 76
Appendices3 ............................................................................................................................................... 80
Appendices4 ............................................................................................................................................... 85
Appendices5 ............................................................................................................................................... 87
Appendices6 ............................................................................................................................................... 88
Appendices7 ............................................................................................................................................... 89
Appendices8 ............................................................................................................................................... 90
AUG 2011
List of Figures and Illustration

Figure 1-1- Methodology of the outlined project ................................................................................... 13
Figure 1-2- Time management ................................................................................................................ 14
Figure 1-3- Timeline of the project ......................................................................................................... 15
Figure 2-1- Research plane ...................................................................................................................... 19
Figure 2-2.1-Evolution and history of shoe types .................................................................................. 22
Figure 2-2.2- Evolution and history of shoe types ................................................................................. 22
Figure 2-2.3-Evolution and history of shoe types .................................................................................. 23
Figure 2-3.1- Ergonomics of foot A ....................................................................................................... 24
Figure 2-3.2- Ergonomics of foot -B ........................................................................................................ 25
Figure 2-3.3- Foot with last shape ........................................................................................................... 25
Figure 2-2-3.4- Ergonomic of fitting with measurement ...................................................................... 26
Figure 2-3.5- Materials of heels ............................................................................................................... 28
Figure 2-3.6- Manual of Shoemaking ..................................................................................................... 29
Figure 2-3.7- Machine welted construction ............................................................................................ 30
Figure 2-3.8- Convertible High-Heels Design-By designed Marta Den Hollander ............................ 32
Figure 2-3.9- Convertible High-Heels Design-By designed Sophie Cox ............................................... 33
Figure 3-1- Market research plane ......................................................................................................... 37
Figure 3-2- Target Strategies ................................................................................................................... 38
Figure 3-3- Hierarchy of Market Position .............................................................................................. 39
Figure 3-4- A.B.C Market Positions OF Labels ..................................................................................... 40
Figure 4-1- Flowchart of questionnaire .................................................................................................. 43
Figure 4-2.1- The age of respondents ...................................................................................................... 43
Figure 4-2.2- Occupation of respondents ............................................................................................... 43
Figure 4-2.3- Habits of respondents A .................................................................................................... 43
Figure 4-2.4- Habits of respondents B .................................................................................................... 43
Figure 4-2.5- Habits of respondents C .................................................................................................... 43
Figure 4-2.6- Habits of respondents D .................................................................................................... 43
Figure 4-2.7- Habits of respondents E .................................................................................................... 43
Figure 4-2.8- Habits of respondents F .................................................................................................... 43
Figure 4-2.9- Habits of respondents G .................................................................................................... 43
Figure 4-3.1- Feedback from wear shoes problems A ........................................................................... 43
Figure 4-3.2- Feedback from wear shoes problems B ........................................................................... 43
AUG 2011
Figure 4-3.3- Feedback from wear shoes problems C ........................................................................... 50

Figure 4-4.1- Purchaser of dress style ..................................................................................................... 51
Figure 5-1- Flower chart of prototype ................................................................................................... 55
Figure 5-2- Design of concept imagine board ........................................................................................ 56
Figure 5-3- Initial ideas of sketches ........................................................................................................ 56
Figure 5-4- Final ideas of sketches .......................................................................................................... 58
Figure 5-5- Prototype design of 2D software ......................................................................................... 58
Figure 5-6- Prototype initial-type design of 3D Heel ............................................................................ 59
Figure 5-7- Development of Patterns-A .................................................................................................. 60
Figure 5-8- Development of Patterns-B .................................................................................................. 60
Figure 5-9- Prototype of heel ................................................................................................................... 61
Figure 5-10- Prototype of process ........................................................................................................... 62
Figure 5-11- Final Prototype ................................................................................................................... 63
Figure 5-12- Evaluations .......................................................................................................................... 64
Figure 5-13- Evaluation of Chart ............................................................................................................ 64
AUG 2011
Chapter 1: Introduction
10
AUG 2011
1.1Motivation
High-heels tend to give ladies the aesthetic appearance of longer, slender and more toned legs.
Therefore, ladies often have to wear high-heeled shoes for extended periods of time during
formal occasions. Wearing high-heeled shoes for extended periods often cause discomfort and
may lead to severe health problems in the long-term. Podiatrists are often visited by patients with
problems caused almost exclusively by problems induced from wearing high-heels. With
problems such as: foot pain, sprain, fractures, an unsteady gait and the inability to run. However,
women are attracted to wear this type of shoe for the sense of confidence they instill.
The project will seek to find solutions to these problems and find an innovative technology to
develop a new design for the heel or the whole shoe structure (adjustable heel height). Finding
new ways to implement high heel design could prevent the long-term effects and discomfort
experienced by high heel wearers.
1.2 Aims & Objectives

The proposal of this project is to create of new heel design based on the principles uncovered
from research. The innovation in the design lies with developing replaceable heels for the shoe
and a newly designed insole that can be worn in formal occasions, while allowing ladies to walk
comfortably, and look elegant.
Aims:
The aim of this project is to take advantage of recent technological advancements to design and
develop a shoe with an innovative high-heel design, and to consider concepts of; ergonomics,
comfort, and marketability of the final design.
Objectives:
The goals required to achieve the project aim are introduced below. Further details are given at
the start of each section.
11
AUG 2011
Literature Review (secondary research): Understanding the methods relating to the

research of related subject areas. These include: shoes industry & background,
ergonomics, material, and construction of high-heels design.
Initial Idea Development: to collect the related information for high-heels design, via
books, public news of fashion trends, exhibitions, magazines, and images in order to gain
inspiration for the design.
Market Research (Primary research): Research the target market, and the high-heel
products of high heels.
Questionnaire (Primary research): To understand the needs of target customers, in order to

understand relevant principles to relate to future design and developmental work.
Design and Development: To create, design and develop a high-heeled shoe, drawing
concept sketches and subsequently develop a prototype, to fulfill the aim of the project.
Testing and Interview (Evaluation): To test the prototype of the high-heel design, and
gain the feedback from a group of targeted customer. Subsequently evaluate the feedback
to draw a list of recommendations.
Dissertation (Conclusion): To record and conclude the research process for the
development of a high-heeled shoe design.
1.3 Background Information

Tracing back to several centuries in history, the first precursors of stiletto heels were discovered
in old Egypt. At that time, records showed that wearing high-heels had meaning, understood to
represent a higher social status. In the 16th century, invention of the high-heel was attributed to
Catherine dMedici. Due to her short stature, she added a 2-inch heel to the design of a shoe to
make herself look slender and more elegant (Kunzle 2004). Afterwards, high-heeled fashion
spread through the aristocracy of Europe. Therefore in the past, women wore high-heels to
12
AUG 2011
demonstrate confidence, elegance and social status. In recent years, along with the evolution of
each generation, women not only take notice of the shoe design but also interested in the aspects
of comfort. However women in the 21st century have more shoe choices than ever before, even
with the different manufacturing techniques in the every century, women consumers have
different requirements and seek to find new innovations in fashion. Also, women have different
requirements on design and the functionality for heels. For this reason, the purpose of this project
is to research and find out what constitutes to innovations in heel design. The technology
proposed is a convertible heel, allowing women to look elegant, but experience comfort too.
1.4 Methodology
Figure 1-1 Methodology of the outlined project

There are five stages of methodology. These are secondary research, primary research, design
and development, evaluation and conclusion [Figure 1-1]. Secondary research will focus on
reviewing existing literature for related subject areas. The resources include books, news
magazines, periodicals, reports, and online information. After an understanding of the basic
background has been established in the literature review, primary research will seek to include
market research, and a questionnaire. The market research will be taken from existing stores and
brands, to gain first-hand information of the target market. The questionnaire will employ
techniques such as interviews and online surveys to gain the needed research. The design and
development will result from the findings of secondary and primary research. The research will
be used to to develop a creative design, through sketching, pattern making and prototyping. The
evaluation will be analyzed through testing and interviewing with a selected group to the
associated target audience. Finally, the dissertation will conclude the final stage of the project.
13
AUG 2011
1.5 Project Management

A Gantt Chart maps the process of the project [Appendix 1]. Figure 1.2 shows the estimated time
management plan. Figure 1.3 demonstrates a detailed breakdown of the project.
Figure 1-2 Time management
14
AUG 2011
Figure 1-3 Timeline of the project

15
AUG 2011
1.6 Summary of Introduction

This aim of the investigation is to create a high-heel shoe design developed from research into the
innovations inherent within; ergonomics, comfort, and marketability. To discuss and test the
feasibility for technology to achieve a new type of high-heeled shoe design. The motivation for
this project comes in response to finding a solution to improve the discomfort experienced from
wearers of high-heeled shoes. Thus, in overview, the aims and objectives are investigated by
means of a methodology, which includes: A literature review, initial ideas development, primary
study of market research, questionnaire, design development, testing and interview and
dissertation. The project will follow a schedule of time management as defined by Figure 1.2.
Moreover, the detailed timeline is shown for each investigation [Fig 1.3].
16
AUG 2011
Chapter 2: Literature review
17
AUG 2011
2.1 Literature searching plan

2.1.1 Aim and objectives
Currently ladies wear high-heel shoes on formal occasions, such as at: their corporate job, parties,
or formal meeting. Wearing high heels will make women feel fashionable and confident, however,
this value comes at a cost to comfort. The researcher of this investigation aims to address this
discomfort by focusing their investigation on the heel of high heeled shoes. The researcher
postulates that the provision of a woman's shoe with an extendible and retractable heels may be a
solution to tackle the cause of discomfort from this type of footwear. The researcher will
investigate the potential of this type of shoe, with heel which may be readily converted from a
high to low. The project therefore focuses on the techniques and innovative concepts employed to
develop this type of high-heeled shoe.
The aims of the secondary study are to review literature related to the relevant subject areas of
investigation. And to further the researchers understanding of designing high-heeled shoes,
achieving the necessary knowledge to conceive new ideas and concepts. The research that
follows will allow the author to gain a general understanding of high-heels, such as: their use, the
materials the manufacturing methods, the comfort and function, and the value added by this
feature at the point of sale.
Objectives:
To draw up a research plan
Proposal
Research books and periodical about the subject areas
Research websites about the subject areas
Review the information from books and websites
Analyze data from books and websites
Conclusion
Develop design rationales
18
AUG 2011
2.1.2 Research plan
Figure 2-1 Research plane

The secondary study covers four main areas, there are background information on high-heeled
shoes, materials, industry of high-heeled shoes design and construction [Fig 2-1]. In the section
of high-heels history, the researcher will review the historical background and the main
theoretical concepts. Next, the researcher will focus on the category of style and influences. In
the next section, the researcher will introduce common materials for high-heels, will look into
new technological resources. For the next section, the researcher will discuss methods of
construction, Including, structure and molding techniques. The final section will briefly introduce
shoe design issues and initial design ideas.
2.2 Researches and information Gathering (history of high-heels)

2.2.1 Background and theory
Tracing back several centuries, to the history of ancient Egypt, it is recorded that many members
of the lower classes walked barefoot. This contrasts to the images painted in murals or wall
paintings which depict an early form of the shoe as worn my nobility and wealthy people. Wilson
19
AUG 2011
(2005) points out that differences in the height of shoes relates to different social status and
importance. During the Middle Ages, men and women were wearing patterns, or wooden soles,
that were a precursor the high heel (Swann 1984). During the 1500s shoes were made with heels
of length 1 to 1- inches. This was until the Italian bride, Catherine d'Medici, commissioned a
pair of shoes to be designed in a fashionable yet functional way. The result was the introduction
of the high heeled shoe in 1519. (Swann 1984).
In 1580, high-heels were popular with both men and women. At the time, high-heels symbolized
status and wealth. In the early 1700s, the French king, Louis XIV, declared that only nobility can
wear heels, that they must be red and that no heel may be higher than his. These notions
demonstrate the importance of high-heel bearers in relation to wealth, nobility and authority
(Murstein.1974).
In 1791, the French Revolution also caused a revolution in footwear. Numerous shoe designs
temporarily appeared and disappeared during the revolution. After the revolution, high heels were
not a symbol of nobility, but were now regarded with equality to low-heeled shoes. Flat shoes or
very low-heeled shoes soon replaced higher heeled shoes. High-heeled shoes and boots came
back into mainstream fashion in the mid-19th century. In1860, the high heel regained its
popularity, primarily due to the invention of the sewing machine. A greater variety of high heels
were able to be produced from this technological advancement. In the 20th century, during the
1940s, after World War II, the high heel regained its popularity once more, primarily because of
the growth in consumer spending and the wide variety of footwear designs produced. In the
1950s, the basic shoe style tended to be flat, ballet, with a decorative strap design. Therefore,
during this time, high-heels became unpopular. People believed that the heel would physically
damage the ground. In the 1960, the feminist movement began. Most women removed previously
bound feet and tightened the corset vest. Due to the increased feminist consciousness, the trend
was seen to change and a sense of fashion and style complimented this era. During this time,
boots, were the most popular shoe design (Gamman.1993).
20
AUG 2011
During the 1960s-70s the low-heeled form became popular with society. In the 70s-80s, along
with the feminism movement, women were adopting the high-heeled form to give height and
represent both power and authority. Until the late 90s, high-heeled shoes began to decline again
with the hippie revival movement placing an emphasis on comfortable style (2011), power and
authority. Until late 90s,high-heeled shoes began to decline again, hippie revival with
emphasizing comfortable and stylish (2011).
During todays heel revival, the women of the 21st century have more shoe choices then ever
before. Different fashions and different design shapes are common in todays society. Women
can choose to wear what they want, even hybrid shoes, such as heeled tennis shoes and flip-flops.
Consequently, these oddities design of fashion, have the potential to excite and exploit new as of
yet unseen fashion choices.
2.2.2 High-heels category style and influence

According to Fig 2.2.1-2.2.3 (history of shoe styles by category), one can understand the whole
industry and the historical process. As a result of the 17th and 18th century high heels, choices in
heel types begun as a symbol of wealth with nobility. After 1791 the high heels disappeared with
the revolution, and at the same time emphasis was on equality. However, through past ages of
time, high heels have fallen in and out of favor several times. By the 1980s & 90s, the majority of
lower heels and even flats have predominated. Becoming the first choice for many women (2011)
Thus, as the era changed, and as more technological advances occurred (such as the sewing
machine), so too became the degree of variation in shoe design and style. Higher heels in the
present day have different degrees of shape and variation.
21
AUG 2011
Figure 2-2.1, 2-2.2 Evolution and history of shoe types
22
AUG 2011
Figure 2-2.3 Evolution and history of shoe types
2.2.3 Ergonomics of foot design

In the book, the human foot and the human hand (1861), G.M, HUMPHRY, and M.D, F.R.S
discusses ergonomics and theories of the foot. In the human body, the whole weight of the body
has to be borne upon two feet - it is most commonly balanced by the whole body. The foot is
from the heel to the tip of the toes. There are 26 bones of the toes, which are made to form the
basis of support upon the ground. Upon walking, standing and running, support for the upper
body comes from the thigh bone to the ankle. The foot and associated bones are primarily used
for traction. During traction, the center of gravity is transferred from the heel to the toes. As the
23
AUG 2011
Centre of gravity shifts, the body moves forward, in relation to the foot on the ground [Fig 2-3.1A].
Figure 2-3.1 Ergonomics of foot A

The importance of our feet can be understood from the "foot reflex zone Health Act," The author,
Mr. Rossi's, relates his research to the effect on our feet. The book mentions the development of
ergonomic foot design. Firstly, it is about structure of the foot, each foot has twenty-six bones,
they are very irregular in shape and size. The composition of the structure of these bones provide
one hundred thirty-seven joints or articulations which permit movement of the foot, supply
flexibility, and function as shock-absorbers when one is standing, walking, running. The bone
architecture of the human foot is arranged in three main groups; they are the toe group,
metatarsus group and tarsus group (Harold, R 1946, p161-165). Thus based on the understanding
of the foot structure, there are several important parts to the foot; the metatarsal arch, transverse
arch, outer longitudinal arch and inner longitudinal arch. These are the parts of the foot that come
in contact with footwear (William. R 2000, p4). These principle points of the foot are easy to
damage upon wearing shoes. For instance foot pain a. b. c [Fig 2-3.2 -B], and hallux valgus of
big toe joint, f [Fig 2-3.2 -B].
24
AUG 2011
Figure 2-3.2 Ergonomics of foot -B

The above points are used as a basis to understand the ergonomics when designing footwear.
Variation from individual to individual means that each person will react different to a particular
shoe. These principles are used as a reference when designing the ergonomics of the shoe.
Furthermore, according to ergonomics of foot theories, prior to making shoes the shape of the
foot and toe shape should be combined to envisage the shape of the shoe [Fig 2-3.3]. Such
sources can be identified and used as standard for reference with regards to the foot size and
shape. The size and ergonomics of the fit will be taken into account for future design and
development work.
Figure 2-3.3 foot with least shape
25
AUG 2011
The fit for any shoe is based on the understanding of the basic foot structure. Fitting is the
process to ensure the shape of the shoe fits the foot properly. Fitting procedures are initiatied
prior to consumer purchase, during the development and preparation of a new style. Thus,
through fitting, various analogue scales are used to measure the level of comfort of footwear
(William 2000 p63-64). According to American (or Standard) system (p163), standard test /
system of a table, it is a shoes size range category, the size ranges are divided into regular and
extremes (extending a bit beyond the regular range). In addition, the official sizes by
classification, includes; infants, children's, little gents, misses, youths, growing girls, boy,
women's and men's. code systems are used to mark for an actual size, making suit with comfort
of the shoes for customer or consumer. On the other hand, wearing the correct shoe size can
protect feet from discomfort, wearing the wrong shoe size could cause foot deformities and
lesions (William 2000 p162-164). As a result, measurement systems will form the basis for
further development and design work.
Figure 2-3.4 ergonomic of fitting with measurement
26
AUG 2011
2.3 Materials
2.3.1 Introduction material considerations for the manufacture of high-heels
In 1519-1589 heels were designed using materials made from cork (Wilson, E 1968). A cork
wedge was used under the front of the shoe with a high section under the heel. After World War
II, the high heel grew in popularity, the reason for of this growth was due to a boom in consumer
spending, coupled with, the advancement of techniques used to develop shoes. Thus the material
at this juncture is very wide. For example, thin metal rods, woods or plastic heels were all used as
materials for the high heel (Lawlor, 1996). High heels are often described as 3 to 4 inches in
height. In 1952, working for Dior, Roger Vivier created a hee using wood as a material to shape
the high heel. Afterwards, in 1954, a small shoemaker from a factory in London, known as
Mehmet Kurdash, used aluminum as the material to manufacture his high heels from. With the
widespread use of steel, the brand, Vivier stilettos, pioneered the further production and
development of the stiletto heel. A technique still in use today (Admin, 2010). Furthermore, In
the past, the part of vamp of the materials include: plastic, leather, fabric, and animal leather; the
fabric and feathers, tree branches and sequins, faux pearls, and genuine diamonds have all been
used to decorate in high heels, etc. In addition, the heel part of the material, including metal,
wood, plastic, etc. (Lawlor, 1996).
2.3.2 Materials and Technology

The heel is the most important part of a pair of shoes. As technology advances, so too do the
extent in the variety of materials. Currently, shoe materials and technology have greatly improved
as technology develops, it were changed traditional way as 70-90 mm with high limits available
for the designers the possibility of innovation (Admin, 2010). As a result, it can be the basis for
designers to use these diverse materials and design development. Such as in present time
extensive use of materials, from wood, polystyrene, PU, metal PU, iron, rubber, ABS, etc.
Moreover, high heels are made in to model first and then connected to the shoes final made
productsWeber, 1980). But also because the heel shaped by molding, so it can be made of
different materials through design combines, for example, after forming can be combined with
stainless steel or other materials even a combination with electronic products.
27
AUG 2011
Figure 2-3.5 materials of heels

Base on the widely development of the materials technology of fabric in the current, also it can
see extension of a widely range in footwear of the upper materials, including: fabric, leather,
wool, polyester, nylon, and some could recyclable materials (Zaino. 2011). Thus leather materials
are the most widely used, there are lots of materials form leather such as goat, kangaroo, cowhide,
camel, pigskin, sheepskin, deerskin, exotic leathers, imitation artificial leather (2011).
Furthermore, the shoe upper material must have a certain degree of elastic quality to adapt to
shoes show shape.
2.4 Construction
2.4.1 Introduction of high-Heel design structure
The footwear technology from the past to the current time has been improve a lot, for instance;
initially traditional hand-made to join the sewing and until in nowadays as mass production by
the machines. Base on understand shoes industry history then move on manual of shoemaking
construction process (H. D 1998). Before shoemaking there are three stages have to confirm first;
those are fitting, confirm Lasts shape with size, and design with pattern. Firstly, making shoes the
most important stage is fitting. The fitting size of height must be correct for the type of foot
gauge being used. Secondly, Lasts is initially of the basic for to creative shoes, due to they dictate
the exact shape, size and fit of the shoes made on them. So last design depends on fashion trends
as well as on the anatomy of the foot. Finally, the part is pattern cutter. The pattern cutter is
responsible for all patterns required for shoe production. These include patterns for outsides,
linings, insoles, soles heels, stiffeners, backers and toe puffs. Accordingly, the whole production
details will be into next section. The section will discuss two parts, one is by handmade
construction, and the other one is by machine shoemaking construction (R. M 1989 p49-78).
28
AUG 2011
2.4.2 High-Heels design of Techniques

A-The Manufacturing Process- Handcrafted shoemaking
Figure 2-3.6 Manual of Shoemaking

Although most shoes in current time are mass-produced, but also handcrafted shoes are still
having a limited scale, especially for performers or case by customer order of design (Holmes, G
2000). The handcrafted of shoes is basically the same as the process, it can trace back to ancient
Rome. The techniques are made entirely or mostly by hand, due to skilled slow and costly
method of cutting shoe upper patterns, but in nowadays, used of faster with more efficient and
economical machine cutting. Such as lasting the upper with patterns are by hand, the soles of
shape by machine. However, a method of construction in which the upper and the sole are
stitched together using a double-stitch method, also a construction of at the vamp to give an
unique seam or puckered. Moreover, heels are attached to the sole by nails, tacks, glue or
stitching. Also It depending on the style, the heels may be constructed of several layers, so the
technique can covered with leather or cloth, the covering methods is using glued or stitched into
the heel (William, G. 2000 p78-79).
29
AUG 2011
B-The Manufacturing Process- Machine shoemaking
Figure 2-3.7 Machine welted construction

The mass-production of high heels are now done largely by machine, through the machine can
make products look more refined, and faster, also it achieve mass production market and some
special skills are kept by hand-made can not reach, therefore tend to technical development is
current towards and future trend.
Computer data is to control the whole production, due to high-heels are made in three separate
sections, the sole, the upper, and the heel. When the components have been assembled or stitched
by computer controlled machines it will into each of these three sections. However, massproduced from the components committed to fiberboard masters or from computerized data. For
instance; first, through the metal dies are used to cut the pieces, even from leather or other
material can press that has been equipped with one or more pieces. Second
30
AUG 2011
are into sewing and synthetic adhesives sticky with insole process. Final is combination; the parts
of heels may be attached to the shank of the shoe using nails, screw nails, tacks, cement, and
staples (William, G. 2000 p156-160).
2.5 Technology in heels and heels design

2.5.1 High-Heels Design Issues and Ideas
A new footwear design concept that aims to make women feel safe and more comfortable,
without compromising on heels design style. However nowadays, the main cause of the problem
is why wearing high heels can sharpen foot pain is that women feet were not designed for high
heels. From another point of view, high heels were not designed for comfort and pain-free
walking either. Feet was created to allow us to provide a balance and strength, and walk or run,
but put on high heels, will change the way, which not only cause leg pain, but may also inhibit
the normal operation of the pace over time. High heels are the only acceptable form of shoes
female on a formal occasion. It is almost mandatory, but when a woman wearing for a long time
it is very uncomfortable, due to this, there is a need to find the new design for adjustable high
heels that could solve this problem.
In order for women to wear high heels and walk confidently and elegantly and can be wearing on
a formal occasion, but in the end of the can be converted to low-heeled shoes to replace the high
heels. Based on this idea hope that through technology to improve high heels is not easy to walk
for women. Therefore, according to the findings, this design concept was created and made a
similar idea was proposed by designed Marta Den Hollander back in 2006 [fig 2-3.8] when he
designed the shoes, that also converted from high-heel to low-heel (Volatoo, 2011).
31
AUG 2011
Figure 2-3.8 Convertible High-Heels Design

By designed Marta Den Hollander
Another one classic example of the inventiveness design concept convertible heel from
Australian students is the design of North Sydney UTS student Sophie Cox. Sophies design
shape is very simple, but the innovative features of the shoe can be converted to prove the heel is
to be converted be the low-heeled to replace high-heeled [Fig2-3.9]. The stylish concept is shoes
can easily be converted from a 7cm heel to a 3cm heel as soon as the situation (Beth, H 2011).
32
AUG 2011
Figure 2-3.9 Convertible High-Heels Design

By Sophie Cox
2.5.2 High-Heels Design Issues and Ideas into my major project

In my major project, base on understanding the literature review as the research with extended to
my major project. According to these studies, is that the heel can be convertible ideas, thus in my
project will explore into the innovation high-heels design. Due to from the formal wearing highheeled, but the after end of the meeting or formal event, to, frequently and rapidly change-in heel
and allow the wearer to walk freely while still stylishly and elegantly. Therefore, the shape of
shoes and heel design and maintain their sense of fashion, not because of material or functional
limitations have become not fashionable and beautiful high heels, consequently, in this research,
hoping to improve the discomfort of women wearing high heels, at the same time, while
concurrently to the stylish appearance of the entire product.
2.6 Summary
To summaries, four main areas of research were investigated. These include, the history of highheels, materials, construction, and technology in heels design. The knowledge and understanding
from each area will be applied to the design and development of a high-heeled shoe. The purpose
of ergonomics is to help people understand the structure of the foot. This applies to the major
project by helping to define the size and shape for a comfortable shoe. The functions and
characteristics of different materials will influence the major project by helping to understand the
materials choices relevant for the design project. The construction techniques identified through
research will help advance knowledge and understanding of the production process. There are
33
AUG 2011
two methods of construction: i) manual method of shoemaking, ii) machine method of

construction. Researches from case studies were used to identify the design to be developed. The
knowledge learned is instrumental to extending this investigation further and to use as reference
when creating initial ideas and concepts.
34
AUG 2011
Chapter 3: Market Research
35
AUG 2011
3.1Introduction
High-heels is part of a fashion trend that covers a huge customer market. Therefore the shoes
market trends will be following fashion trend as sales, on the other hands, the price is according
to different target group and segment markets. For example, there is the hierarchy of marketing;
they are customized marketing, niche marketing, concentrated market and differentiated market.
Market research will primarily focus on analyzing the hierarchy of target market audiences.
Findings will be based on a survey of the current products currently available on the market.
From this research a greater understanding of the market will be used to identify the average need
of the users.
3.2 Aim & Objectives

The aims are to research high-heels products in the current market, and to analyze materials,
styles, prices, and other factors. To achieve the aims, the objectives are listed as follows:
To make a market research plan
To make a proposal with a flowchart
To collect existing high-heels products and collect of brands into an arranged hierarchy
According this hierarchy to compare and analyze the different types of high-heeled
products
To conclude
To develop design rationales
36
AUG 2011
Figure 3-1 Market research plane
3.3Target Market
Previous research suggests that high-heels can encompass class, sex appeal, and make one appear
more elegant. Heels can be considered as the epitome of femininity. Heels are considered as the
choice form of footwear for a vast range of occasions, for example; work, parties, and other
formal occasions. High-heels are considered a part of current fashion trends. Thus, the attention
for a target market should be those individuals attracted to this type of fashion. In the major
project, part of the market research, through the target market analysis, are to point out and
identify what are the niche market, target group, and products price, products type, materials,
color with products of marketing hierarchy.
Roughly, the fashion markets could be divided into 4 types: there are high cost, low cost, high
versatility, low versatility [Fig 3-2], Rosalind Masterson (2004 p103). In the scene of high-end
fashion labels, it could be divided into luxury brands and designer brands. For example Burberry,
Gucci and Louis Vuitton, belongs to the luxury brands area, due to image and the price
consumers feel.
37
AUG 2011
On the other hand, Jimmy Cho, Manolo Blahnik and Christian Louboutin, are usually placed in
the designer brands area, because of their unique style and price. It is obvious to find the
differences and features between the two brands. According to Baudrillard (1996), fashion brands
should consider an essential aspect of the cultural capital of consumers. Also, Bruce and Kratz
(2008), demonstrate the marketing position and brand development. The markets have to
consider the design and target market aspects, such as age, income and characteristics of
consumers in the target market and the labels style. About marketing position there are four
kinds of markets, these include mass market, market segment, niche market and customized.
Easey and Sorensen (2002) theorize the differences between these markets. They point out that
there are two directions in these markets. First direction is to closely meet consumer needs (this is
concentrated marketing). The second direction gathers consumers whose needs, using a
customized marketing approach.
Figure 3-2 Target Strategies
38
AUG 2011
3.4 Product Analysis

Market positioning [fig 3-3] is a method to understand the current condition of the high-heel
footwear market. There are three classes in the hierarchy; those are luxury labels, designer labels,
and high-street labels. As a result of the market positioning and analysis of eighteen different
brands. A classification into several categories can be formulated. Items include: brand name,
item picture, price, type, color, and materials detail [Appendix 2]. The investigation was analyzed
and also cross-matched to compare each items.
Figure 3-3 Hierarchy of Market Position

The main categories of investigation are: type and color, price, and materials with products detail.
The research showed that brands from 2010-2011 [Fig 3-4 A.B.C], are due to the fashion trend.
So as type with color can see it is follow fashionable. Therefore even from different level labels
the design look are as resemble as type. Although, they different at using materials detail, for
instance, in luxury label they focus on brand image of management, it would be more care about
quality of using high materials of leather, on the other hand, high-heeled part of the joints
39
AUG 2011
using nails or screws bonding with upper. In designer label they more care about designer detail,
creative, and fashionable. About the materials is certain extent quality standard. In the high-street
label is belongs to the mass market, so it must be considered the price, furthermore in parts of
design are follow popular direction of the target market, so the products shape is not too different
with upper middle class, but also in design style look rigid. About the materials is seek alternative.
However, in the color tend to be conservative black and brown lines. Subsequently, among the
Eighteen items, the highest prices is in luxury label level, its between 800-500 pounds, the lowest
price is set in 30-15 pounds. There are many factors which affect the price, such as brands, design,
and materials. So from compare the price and materials it can find out the market target.
According to the analysis of target Strategies market Position and market brands items, can seek
into the major project of design rationales.
A
Luxury label
B
Designer label
Color-
Color-
C
High-Street label
Color-
Figure 3-4 A.B.C Market Positions OF Labels
3.5 Design Rationales

Base on the market research analysis, the design rationales as some elements can be found as the
development and design reference. The listed as follows and some result will be assisted in
developing design:
40
AUG 2011
According to the hierarchy of market position, it will be find the target market range.
The price depends on market positioning, so will according to target market to goal
setting of design and products price for customer.
There are two ways in the materials, one parts in the vamp, the other part is in the
heel. According to market survey most of vamp using kinds of leather materials to make.
On the other hands, the part in heel materials they using Aluminum, iron, combine with
other materials but in detail information, need to be considered in the further research.
From market survey to get a result, the shoe is part a fashion of accessories, so tend
to be conservative color, black is still the main color, also the dark or bright of brown, red,
dark gold, dark silver, and tan are drive trend line.
About design shape, from the collection of market information to understand the
fashion trends of the current time, so in the development designed process will consider it,
to collect from market and target group looks most popular item included design shape,
color, and unique techniques as reference index.
These are preliminary in market research can give the future works some design ideas.
Moreover, target group detail will be into next section of questionnaire.
3.6 Summary
In this section, based on market portfolio of the high-heel market was provided and analyzed.
Having looked into the purpose and the process of the market research. It was focus on the
fashion of footwear market and gave an overview of the existing with understood target
market strategies. Base on market strategy to analysis target structure. Thus there are threemarket positions; due to those levels can clearly analysis target group with target market price.
In addition, from 18 items on the market high-heel products by comparing the price, colors,
materials, and styles can understand the market trends. In the end, concluded from the market
research got each products sources of heel; it will be applied to the design and development
for the further research and design work.
41
AUG 2011
Chapter 4: Primary Research
42
AUG 2011
4.1 Introduction
Through the survey were to understand the habits and the orientation from the target customers.
The on-line survey was delivered from 09th to 16th of March 2011. The complete questionnaire
form please refers to [Appendix 3]. There were 112 from Internet can't ensure that the
participants were randomly selected. This project is going to study on new development in highheel so in the questionnaire is divided into three parts including personal information, the
purchasing using behaviors of choosing and products type, and the suggestions of the innovation
design ideas of the customers; the result of the analysis are expected to be further works most
important design rationales of the high-heel development.
4.2 Aim and Objectives

The aim of the questionnaire is to research the suggestions with creative ideas of high-heel from
the target market. To achieve the aim the objectives are listed below:
To plane a questionnaire
To make a proposal
To identify the target group and the way with survey
To develop questions base on the project of intended target audience associates with target
products
To deliver the question in order to make as informed decision on further works design
To collect the responses, base on research clearly points to a need for further research
To analysis the data
To conclude by points out the design rationales
The expected outcomes are as follows:
A proposal
Questionnaire form
Questionnaire survey
Develop design rationale
43
AUG 2011
Figure 4-1 Flowchart of questionnaire
4.3 Questionnaire & Interview

The questionnaire was set up on Kwik Surveys. The target group are from 112 participants were
randomly selection [Appendix 3]. The questionnaire looked at the views of participants
associated with the project's intended target audience that age between 16-55 years old female
group. The questionnaire is to research the opinions of user different aspect, it would describe
below according to the three parts which are part 1: the background of subjects. Part 2: the
purchasing of using behavior includes; price, products type, and function. Part 3: got feedback
from wear shoes problems with suggestion of how to develop an innovation high-heel design.
Furthermore the parts in an interview is focus on street of offices ladies, this study is implications
for observe of general women dress style, and consumer awareness, at the same time will take
some photos as references.
4.3.1 Question Analysis
44
AUG 2011
Part 1: the background of the customers

This part of questionnaire in the survey is to get high-heel market of customer background. This
market survey is random access from the within the 112 female to do the survey in Internet,
according to the survey can be found who wear high-heels in the chart. However, most of women
wear high-heel of age are as follows chart [fig 4.2.1]: the largest range is from 16 -35 years old
(50%) and 26-35 years old (44%). The result show that most respondents are in the stage of
occupational was included: students, design work, and also some of working in office. On the
other hand [Fig 4.2.2] shows that students are the largest group (37%), the next groups are
follows chart: designer (27%), service trend (16%), business (15%), housekeeper (13%) and
banker (5%)
Figure 4-2.1 The age of respondents
What is your occupation
Figure 4-2.2 Occupation of respondents

45
AUG 2011
Part 2: The purchasing of using behavior

According to [Fig 4.2.3-6] mostly female would like to wear high-heel but actually ladies rarely
wear it. In addition, the researcher finds out that most of ladies wear high-heel on 3 times a week.
On the other hand, they usually wear high-heel of the occasion as in formal occasions and dating.
In addition to, the mostly purchasers are usually control the budget around the 20-40pounds to
buy the high-heel.
Do you like or wear high-heel?
Figure 4-2.3 Habits of respondents A
* How often do you wearing high heels per week?
Figure 4-2.4 Habits of respondents B

46
AUG 2011
* When do you wear high-heels
Figure 4-2.5 Habits of respondents C
* How much your budget for spending on a pair of high-heels?
Figure 4-2.6 Habits of respondents D

The habits of purchasing
Majority of female [fig 4-2.7] (55%) thinking the way of high-heel should be at 2-3 inches (57.5cm), but usually the women wear height of high-heel is within in 2 inches (5cm) [fig 4-2.8]
(43%), on the other hand, when female to buy shoes most concerns points are style (60%) and
comfort (30%) [fig 4-2.9].
47
AUG 2011
* What do you think how high the heels will be considered as high-heels?
Figure 4-2.7 Habits of respondents E
* How high are the heels do usually wear?
Figure 4-2.8 Habits of respondents F
What is your the most concerns when buying a pair of high-heels?
Figure 4-2.9 Habits of respondents G
48
AUG 2011
Part 3: feedback from wear shoes problems with suggestion of how to develop an innovation
high-heel design.
From Statistics on the shows, almost all of woman wearing high-heel were feel uncomfortable
(100%) [Fig 4.3.1], they are encounter problems as following: when they wear high-heel walk
while for a time might feel uncomfortable such as foot hurts and shoes pinching toes [fig 4-3.3],
most of the parts of pain are in lateral of forefoot, toe and heel [fig 4-3.2].
* Have you ever got hurt when you wearing high heels?
Figure 4-3.1: feedback from wear shoes problems A
* Where do you usually feel pain on your foot when you wearing high-heels?
Figure 4-3.2: feedback from wear shoes problems B
AUG 2011
49
* Have you found any problem while you are wearing high heels?
Figure 4-3.3: feedback from wear shoes problems C

* What kind of improvement on design of high-heels would you like to expect in the future? Pleas
give any comment ( b A c ] p i, A )

The question feedback please looks at Appendix 4.
In this research (Appendix 4) is presented that feedback from customer, it showed some points of
view and also add suggestion in the further works. There are few aspects of new ideas of creating
an innovative high-heel provided by the research: first, the concept is hope to add function in
high-heel such as increase the decompression function, it can make more comfortable when
walking. Second, the customers hope shoes can add new design concept for instance; convertible
high-heel shoes. When in formal occasions requires they can wear higher heel, after meeting can
facilitate replace heel with comfort in walk. The last, suggestion change new materials in the
insole for example; cushion, silicone or massage functional in the materials. As result, people
more care about when wearing high-heel can easy to walk and feel comfort in the foot. However,
those concepts are all important references and rationales of the future design.
4.3.2 Interview Analysis
AUG 2011
50
The interview is from 15 office ladies by street interviews [Appendix 3-B]. Although in
questionnaire of results already showed main implication for future research. But in part of
interview of survey is against office workers and also understanding further in depth of female
dress style, purchase awareness and observation women when wearing high-heel walk problems.
So in this study at deriving viewpoints are from more purchasers. Moreover, all these source can
be summarized as follows:
The research of age range at 26-56 years old.

Most women have 6-12 pairs of high heels.
Woman usually wear high heels of occasion are in works or parties.
The majority women would wear high-heeled shoes of height within 5-9cm (2.5-3.5 inch).
When they wear high-heels often encountered problems is felt foot pain and discomfort in
walking.
When purchaser buying shoes, they concern the design and shoes shape more than the price.
Thus, they focus on comfortable and functional, but also the fashion trend influence them a lot.
Subsequently, in the part of styles have taken photos from their dress as be further works
references [fig 4.4.1]. In the end, above results will useful into design develop as rationales
design works concep
Figure 4-4.1 purchaser of dress style
AUG 2011
51
4.4 Design Rationales

According to the analysis of the questionnaire the design rationales all of the results can be
summarized as follows:
To consider functional, when wearing high-heel still can easy walking, and running.
To add the treat function insole design.
Consider the price, base on target market level such as luxury level, designer level, or highstreet level.
The new ideas: convertible high-heels.

The shape designs: have to follow fashion trends.
Focus on design of heel style: wedge heel, classic heel, spool heel, stiletto heel, etc.
The problems which need to be solved: Improve function, when wearing high-heel caused by
foot sprains or toe pain.
4.5 Summary
To sum up this results of the survey, the research are finding purchasing of using behavior and
the feedback of new ideas about developing an innovative shoes design. The purpose of the
questionnaire and interview is analysis of data and into the design rationales for the final design
source. The analysis was divided into three parts; first, the background of the customer
information, second, the habits of purchasing high-heel, and third, the feedback with suggestion
of ideas to develop an high-heel. The interview major finding was that office worker of
background, purchasing habits with favorite products style, and suggestion of important design
concept. However, those data source of the findings of analysis have important implication for
the further design works.
52
AUG 2011
Chapter 5: Design And Development
53
AUG 2011
5.1 Introduction
According to the secondary and primary research of collected results to development design
rationales. The stage of design and development which aim to carry out the theoretical factories
into a model. The process is divided in to several sections. Firstly, the design inspiration and the
final design rationales will be defined from the previous research. Secondly, design development
will be illustrated systematically, from searching for the inspiration to creative sketch design.
Thirdly, the pattern base on illustrator design and will made through a tests and revises then to
the final prototype. In the end, the testing and interview section will show the result and feedback
from target group.
Aim and objectives

The aim is to design and develop a final prototype of an innovation high-heel design. The
objectives which accomplish the aim are listed as follows by the [Fig 5-1].
The expected outcomes are listed:
Design Proposal
Imaging board & Sketches board
Patterns
A final prototype
5.2 Design Processes

5.2.1 Initial idea Development
The initial ideas have been following investigation of the primary and secondary study.
According to research got the design orientation and principles. The ideas of design purpose is to
collect inspiration of high-heel design. Thus, the first imagine are collect from books, internet,
and magazines [fig 5-2]. Due to the imagine board are creative initial ideas. The design sources
are shown in the inspiration Board [fig 5-3] - the surreal fascination of architecture structures and
the romance of 18th C. design. The shoe upper design concept is inspired by the Alexander
McQueen 2011 winter fashion catwalk. The design concept for the heel is from the structural
principles of a set of Russian dolls. The innovative design is based on principles discovered in the
research. Its approach lies with developing replaceable heels for the shoe and a newly designed
54
AUG 2011
insole that can be worn on formal occasions, while allowing ladies to walk comfortably and look
elegant.
Figure 5-1 Flower chart of prototype
55
AUG 2011
Figure 5-2 design of concept imagine board
Figure 5-3 Initial ideas of sketches

56
AUG 2011
5.2.2 Final Design Rationales

The final design rationales of points are following the imagines board sources and secondary with
primary studies. Due to the research of source and analysis are divided into the product design,
this section is focus on the design process of prototype. The design process of detail description
as following final design rationales [fig 5-1]:
Renew the initial imagine board of ideas and check or add new source
According the imagine board to create sketches and confirm design
Confirm the detail design and size for prototype
According to the finial design illustrator to choose the Last shape
Make pattern.
Confirm pattern
Prepare materials
Product detail design
Final prototype
5.2.3 Development of Final Sketches

The beginning of the product design work is from development of sketches. Due to sketches
work will integrate whole of research source such as initially collect of information, initial ideas,
and the final composition. Therefore, in this section is achieve final goal, it is fulfill designing
products of convertible high-heel shoes.
In the beginning, the sketches works is collect research and drawing the several rough sketches
on the paper; the design is focus on the function of heel and shoes shape [fig5-4]. Afterwards, the
sketches works will select one style of high-heel, and through 2D software for further detail
product design [fig5-5].
57
AUG 2011
Figure 5-4 Final ideas of sketches
Figure 5-5 Prototype design of 2D software

58
AUG 2011
5.2.4 Development of Patterns

Before work of development on the pattern have to do develop part of initial-type of high-heel
first [fig5-5]. There are 3 parts in the heel, including the shoe of heel base, front sole plate, and
two each different size in heel. On the other hand, the combination principle is based on the
Russian dolls [fig5-5, E]. Furthermore, the heels of each size are 12cm and 6cm.
Figure 5-6 Prototype initial-type design of 3D Heel

Making pattern is a process from 2D design into 3D design. The pattern of the process first step
is having selected the appropriate last then into a roll of masking tape in the last. Each strip of
tape should overlap on whole the last [fig 5-6 of A]. The next step is base on the 2D design of
illustrator to create shape in the tape on the last and then check mark on details [fig5-6 of B.C].
Furthermore, remove from the last and carefully cut through the impression line [fIg5-6 of E] and
then copy design line shape with revision and check it again. The rough pattern process as follow:
[fig 5-7-A]
Selected the shoes appropriate Last

Tape covered the Last
Mark up in the last draw the design shape in the last revision the design line and confirm
again in the last removes from last and cut out, cut out is from the shoes around the middle of
cutting edge and got left and right side
59
AUG 2011
Figure 5-7 development of Patterns-A
Along the Left tape and right type of edges then draw down on the paper and revision with
check it again
The last revised pattern will be the most important one, thereafter the pattern is to be extended
to assigned as a benchmark
Figure 5-8 development of Patterns-B

60
AUG 2011
5.2.5 Development of Prototypes

Develop the prototype of process is based on follow the pattern works to create prototype. The
prototype of part the vamp of material is leather. The color is black and red. Furthermore the
prototype of process as following:[fig 5-8, 5-9]
Figure 5-9 Prototype of heel
Painting color on heel

A. Prepare material of vamp of leather
B. Base on cut out pieces of pattern to put in leather then along edge cut the sewing shape
C. To hide the wire in the leather
D. Sewing and combination pattern of vamp
E.F. Initial prototype invagination in last then confirm and revision
G. To revise and confirm vamp detail
H. Invagination in last and confirm design detail again
J. To stick lining with insole
K.L. To stick vamp with insole
The final prototype of structure see [fig 5-10] finished parts of vamp then is into stick with heel
base.
61
AUG 2011
Figure 5-10 Prototype of process
62
AUG 2011
Figure 5-11 Final prototype

63
AUG 2011
5.2.6 Testing interview

There are two groups in the evaluation of the interview, the one group is designer from 10 people,
and the other group is target group from 10 people. There are several points in the interview,
namely are: design ideas, product shape, product structure, materials, color, marketability and
product of quality. However, from those two different groups are get different perspectives [5-11A].
The designer viewpoint, they thought the product of design ideas is very good, but have to
consider that product structure for example the part in heel when walking the structure have to
stronger. About the materials they thought can try other texture to make high-heel, such as Suede
leather. The color and quality they thought is good and have follow fashion trends. But in
marketability still have to improve more technology with function on the heel of structure. The
target group viewpoint, they like the design concept of the convertible high-heel idea, and like the
materials, color and product quality, but they give some suggestion in the product design shape
which can be more simply and modernization. About the marketability and high-heel structure
they thought structure have to be more stable [fig5-11- B].
Figure 5-12 Evaluation
Figure 5-13 Evaluation of Chart
64
AUG 2011
5.3 Summary
To sum up this section, design and development covered the work of imagines board, sketching,
pattern making, prototype development, as well as evaluation. The final sketches, including the
detail of 2D illustrator print, product description, size and construction. The pattern was made
according to the 2D illustrator of standard size and also revised several times until final approach
the design rationales. The prototype was made of follow the pattern development. The part of
upper is use leather; the basic of heel is made by wood. Finally, the product evaluated by two
groups designer and target group. The interview was focused on the different design area,
generally, people thought the product design idea is well, but there were some suggestion being
pointed out as for the feedback, as well as those suggest should be further research undertaken.
65
AUG 2011
Chapter 6: General Discussion
66
AUG 2011
6.1Reflection on the project

This
section
is
reflection
upon
the
MA
in
Design
Innovation
course
at
De Montfort University and considers the wider implications of the project. The project has
encompassed both primary and secondary research informing the designs development. This
research identified a number of design issues and obstacles worth highlighting here.
Firstly, market research based upon the customers position considers what the most suitable
design is for a target group in creating products for the market. Most products are targeted at a
specific position within a market segment hierarchy, including luxury labels, designer labels and
high-street labels. As a result, a good designer should always consider the intended customers
position and determine the most suitable design for the market.
Secondly, in analysing the project questionnaire, peoples desire for product style and
functionality was uncovered. Furthermore, it provided information on purchasing behaviour and
preferences, price, quality of products and also and understanding of product issues. Although the
research is not focused on the insole and its decompression function, at least the project has
provided matter for future research.
Based upon the body of research and design principles that were embraced, prototype
development was undertaken. Initially, the intent was not to use wood in constructing the heel,
however, wood proved to be an acceptable material for prototyping and through a particular
molding process, a solid model was achieved. In the future, the selection of materials and
technologies employed in the heel should continue to be explored and decisions made based upon
further research.
Finally, the inspiration of the project also explored a possibility to change heel technology with
creative high-heel function. However, in practical manufacturing terms, it is still overcome the
issue of producing an easily replaceable and durable system in heel design. Although the research
in this project has been concluded, the project has delineated what the major issues are that will
need to be addressed in future research.
67
AUG 2011
6.4 Reflection on the Design Innovation (MA) Experience

In the beginning of the one-year MA course in Design Innovation, students become familiar with
the research tools and methodologies to later be utilised in creating the design project. A basis for
developing innovative approaches and various design skills required to complete the major
project is provided, reflecting the various methodologies and experiences acquired in each
module.
The modules in the first semester including Research Methodology, Design Cultures and Design
process, those extremely useful in providing a framework for the design project process.
Research Methodology provided a series of research methods and skills to help students carry out
the basic structure of their major projects. The mind-map, for example, gave an outline of how
to analyse the ideas of subject areas collected in books, the internet and other resources while
gathering information related to the major project. Design Cultures lead students to look deep
into design history, theories and case studies in order to develop their approach to their major
project. In the design process, students were familiarised questions and problems which might
arise during the whole design processes via a group-based project.
In the second semester, the Creative Professional and Holographic Imaging were undertaken.
Among the objectives of the Creative Professional was to let students focus on primary research
as well as work on the design of their major project and provide a more in-depth way of thinking
of design development. Holographic Imagine provided students with a broader knowledge of 2D
technology shown with 3D effect useful in the development of designs.
The Footwear module proved extremely useful in terms of realsing my major project. It was a
pleasure to gain knowledge of footwear design and shoemaking skills from my tutor Phil. During
the final semester, full attention was given to the major project. This period required of students
the ability employ effective time management strategies and practice self-discipline in order to
complete all of their final design work. The final presentation addressed the whole of the course
and the sum total of our efforts. The experience of being on the course not only provided an
environment for research, but also an opportunity to learn and absorb an entirely different culture,
something of particular value to designers.
68
AUG 2011
Chapter 7: Conclusion & Recommendations
69
AUG 2011
7.1 Conclusions
The research into innovative high-heels design is adding new concepts of convertible high-heel
shoes for the comfort and marketability, allowing ladies to walk comfortably and look elegant.
Based on secondary and primary research, the design work was completed according to the
design rationales. First of all, the literature review provided a general understanding of shoe
history with background in materials, ergonomics, construction and technology in high-heel
design. In the primary research, the market survey provided an understanding of the market
position and the analysis of market products showed the existing condition of the high-heel
market. The questionnaire of the user behavior and purchasing habits became a tool useful in
understanding the opinion of the new design ideas from the target customer. Afterwards, the final
design rationales were concluded for the design work.
According to the design rationales, the final design was confirmed from the inspiration principle
to create sketches in order to choose the best for development prototype. The patterns were based
on the 2D converted into a 3D model with tests and revisions. The final prototype made of leather
and a basic heel of wood showed the complete structure of the high-heel design. Thereafter,
further research conducted as an interview with a two designers in and a target group provided
professional suggestions and feedback on the project.
The result of the evaluation focused on product design shape and structure. People thought the
prototype structure is a good idea with high quality. However, a major conclusion of the project
is that there are still some detailed functional issues regarding the technology of the design which
are to be improved upon. There are many difficulties, to address and overcome in the further
research.
70
AUG 2011
7.2 Recommendations
The research finally supplied possibilities for the concept of the convertible high-heel design. As
for further research in the same design area, the suggestions are as follows:
1. Development of a stable heel structure. Allow women to wear shoes with convertible high
heel/low heel options as required by the occasion. Additionally, further consideration should be
given to heel stability and safety while walking or running. Research should continue around the
development of technology and materials suited to the intended application.
2. Focus on functionality. The prototype was subject to certain limitations in materials. Future
research, however, may explore a decompression function in the insole of the high heel shoe,
effectively massaging the wearers foot. The lack of such comfort is an acknowledged
disadvantage among women wearing high-heel shoes.
3. As a concept design project, details in all areas may not have been given full consideration.
The overall form and the shape of the heel stand to benefit from further development, adding
more elements and improving the design detail to the level of high quality modern footwear
design.
The recommendations above are expected to continue developing innovative high-heel design in
further research.
71
AUG 2011
Chapter 8: References & Bibliography
72
AUG 2011
References
Books & Publications
Humphry, G. and M, D. (eds.) (1861) The Human Foot and The Human Hand. 28, Henrietta ST:
Macmillan and Co.
Harold, R.Q. (1946) Pacemakers of Progress Chicago: Hide and Leather publishing Co.
Larraine, G. (1993) Self-Fashioning, Gender Display, New Brunswick, New Jersey: Rutgers
University Press
Lawlor, L. (1996) Where Will This Shoe Take You? A Walk Through the History of Footwear.
New York: Walker and Co.
Murstein, B.I. (1974) Love, Sex, and Marriage through the Ages. New York, New York: Springer
Publishing Company.
Miller, R. and Redwood, S. and Bonham, N and Burt, W. and Hughes, T. and Loader, C. and
Page, E. and Dunthorn, K. (eds.) (1989) Manual of Shoemaking. 6nd UK: C.I.C Ralphs Ltd.
Masterson, R & Pickton, D 2010, Marketing: and introduction, 2nd edn, SAGE Publication,
London.
Shari, B and Suzanne, F. (eds.) (1993) Sexy Girl Shoes: What's at StakeFemale Fetishism or
Narcissism?" in Footnotes on Shoes. New Brunswick, New Jersey: Rutgers University Press.
William, A. R. (2000). The Complete Footwear Dictionary. 2nd Edition United States of America:
Krieger Publishing Co.
Wilson, E. (1968) A History of Shoe Fashions. New York: Theatre Arts Books
Web Pages
Admin (2010) Sky high heels, leading the fashion trend of technology [www] Available:
from:
http://www.truereligion.im/blog/christian-louboutin/sky-high-heels-leading-the-fashion-trend-oftechnology.html [Accessed 30/06/2011]
Beth G. H (2011) Innovative Fashion Design: Convertible High Heels [www] Available:
From: http://inventorspot.com/articles/innovative_fashion_design_convertible_high_heels_32664
[Accessed 30/06/2011]
73
AUG 2011
Fashion & beauty (2011) Leathers Used in Upper Materials For Shoes [www] Available
from: http://www.squidoo.com/leathers-used-in-upper-materials-for-shoes [Accessed 30/06/2011]
Howard. D (1996) Comfortable High Heel Shoes[www] Available
from:
http://www.google.com.tw/patents?hl=zhTW&lr=&vid=USPAT5782015&id=g90AAAAAEBAJ
&oi=fnd&dq=comfortable+high-heel+shoe&printsec=abstract#v=onepage&q&f=false [Accessed
30/06/2011]
Mysexyhiheels.com (2011) History of high heels [www] Available
from: http://www.mysexyhiheels.com/history/history.html [Accessed 30/06/2011]
Holmes. G (2000) How is High-Heels Made [www] Available
from:
http://marketingcommunicationbranding-o.blogspot.com/2009/03/how-is-high-heel-made.html
[Accessed 30/06/2011]
Volatto (2011) Convertible High Heels [www] Available
from: http://hubpages.com/hub/Convertible-High-Heels [Accessed 30/06/2011]
Zaino, L (2011) Shoe with its vamp zonally covered with injected plastics material securely
bonded to the fabric [www] Available
from: http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4447967.html [Accessed 30/06/2011]
Online Image
Mike, H (2011) Convertible High-Heels [www] Available
http://www.gizmag.com/go/2534/ [Accessed 30/06/2011]
Volatto (2011) Convertible High-Heels [www] Available
http://hubpages.com/hub/Convertible-High-Heels [Accessed 30/06/2011]
74
AUG 2011
Bibliography
Easey, M 2002, Fashion Marketing Planning in Easey, M (ed.), Fashion Marketing, 2nd edn,
Blackwell Science Ltd., Oxford.
Michael, H. S. (1994). The Pattern Cutters Handbook. Lancashire, England: Noble Footwear,
England.
Patrick, H. J. (1983). Modern Pattern Cutting And Design. Garrington ST, England: Mobbs
Miller Ltd.
Marissa Window in fashion feature The Evolution of High Heel [www] Available
http://www.styleta.org/blog/2011/04/07/the-evolution-of-high-heels [Accessed 15/07/2011]
75
AUG 2011
Chapter 9: Appendices
76
AUG 2011
Appendix I
77
AUG 2011
Appendix 2
78
AUG 2011
79
AUG 2011
Appendix 3
Questionnaire
March-2011
Questionnaire of footwear design
Dear Sir/Madam
I am a student in the Design Innovation course at the De Montfort University. This questionnaire
has been developed as part of my research studies for footwear design of the primary research. I
am researching about the comfort of women who wear high-heels and any long-term walking
problems.
I need your views on specific areas of the positions, I would appreciate if you could take part in
the survey as I am interested in getting some information on the fitting of high-heeled shoes and
their problems. Your opinion will be very useful to this research.
All the information will be treated confidentially and stored in locked hardware and on
completion of my studies it will be destroyed. In addition, respondents identity will be kept
anonymous in my research. Thanks for your cooperation.
Part 1 (Background of Respondent)
1. Gender: ()
Male
Female
2. Age: (
16-25
26-35
36-45
46-55
56 or above
3. What is your occupation ()
Student
Banker
80
Service trade
Housekeep
Others
4. Do you like wearing high-heel? ()
Yes
No
5. What do you think how high the heels will be considered as high heels? (
)
1-2 inches (3-5cm)
2-3 inches (5-7.5cm)
3-4 inches (7.5-10cm)
No ideas
6 How high are the heels do you usually wear? (?)
2 inches (5cm)
2.5 inches (6.3cm)
3 inches (7.5cm)
3.5 inches (9cm)
4 inches (10cm)
Higher than 4 inches
Dont wear high-heels
7. How often do you wear high heels per week? (?)
Every Day
Once a week
1-3 times a week
More than three times
81
Rarely wear
None
8 When do you wear high-heels? ()
For work
Dating
Going to club
Formal occasions
Others
9 What do you the most concerns when buying a pair of high-heels? (
)
Price
Comfort
Style
Others
10 How much your budget for spending on a pair of high-heels? (
)
Less than 10 pounds (Less than NT500)
10-20 pounds (About NT500-1000)
More than 40 pounds
11 Have you ever got hurt when you wearing high heels? (
) Can choose more than one answer
Yes
No
12 Where do you usually feel pain on your foot when you wearing high-heels? (
) choose more than one answer
82
1 Toe
2 lateral of forefoot
3 Instep
4 Malleolus
5 Lateral of heel
6 Heel
13 Did you find any problem while you are wearing high heels? (
)
Shoes pinching toes
Foot hurts
When you walk hard to keep balance
Feeling calf muscle shortens and tightens
Spines bends or back pain
Others
14 What kind of improvement of design on high-heels would you like to see in the future? Pleas
give any your comment (,)
Comment:
Thank you for talking the time for completes my questionnaire.
83
AUG 2011
Appendix 4
Interview
84
Dear participant, I am a student in the Design Innovation course at the De Montfort University.
This interview has been developed as part of my researching studies for footwear design of the
primary research. I am researching about the comfort of women who wear high-heels and any
long-term walking problems.
This research needs your constructive point of views. I would appreciate if you could take part in
the interview as I am interested in getting some information on the fitting of high-heeled shoes
and some problems they confront. Your opinion will be very useful to this research.
All the information will be treated confidentially and stored in locked hardware. On completion
of my studies it will be destroyed. In addition, respondents identity will be kept anonymous in
my research. Thanks for your cooperation.
Questions:
1. Age: ( A ~^
26-35
36-45
46-55
56 or above
2. What is your occupation?
3. How many high-heels do you have?
4. According to high-heels you have, what kind of high-heels shape do you prefer to wear?
Ex: wedge heel, basic heel..
5. What kind of occasion do you wear high-heels?
6. How high does high-heels do you usually wear on formal occasions?
7. What is the most serious problem when you wearing high-heels?
8. Which part of high-heels will you consider particularly when you are buying?
High-heels of shape design
Function
85
WhyGHigh heels are for enhancing womans charisma thus the beautiful shape design of it
would be my top choice.
9. Will fashion trend influence you to buy high-heels or necessary need?

10. If there is a design, a pairs of high-heels, which can alter its heels anytime, would you be
willing to buy? Or what ideas do you have?
Comment:
Thank you for talking the time for completes my questionnaire.
AUG 2011
Appendix 5
86
What kind of improvement on design of high-heels would you like to expect in the future? Pleas
give any comment ( b A c ] p i, A )
AUG 2011
Appendix 6
Presentation Board
87
AUG 2011
Appendix 7
Presentation Board
88
AUG 2011
Appendix 8
Presentation Board
89
90

Convertible High-Heels Design

Transféré par

Informations du document

Copyright

Formats disponibles

Partager ce document

Partager ou intégrer le document

Options de partage

Avez-vous trouvé ce document utile ?

Ce contenu est-il inapproprié ?

Droits d'auteur :

Formats disponibles

Convertible High-Heels Design

Transféré par

Droits d'auteur :

Formats disponibles

Convertible High-Heels Design

Designing convertible high-heeled shoes

Design Innovation (MA)

3.6 Summary .............................................................................................................................................. 41

List of Figures and Illustration

Figure 4-3.3- Feedback from wear shoes problems C ........................................................................... 50

1.2 Aims & Objectives

Literature Review (secondary research): Understanding the methods relating to the

Questionnaire (Primary research): To understand the needs of target customers, in order to

1.3 Background Information

Figure 1-1 Methodology of the outlined project

1.5 Project Management

Figure 1-2 Time management

Figure 1-3 Timeline of the project

1.6 Summary of Introduction

Chapter 2: Literature review

2.1 Literature searching plan

To draw up a research plan

Research books and periodical about the subject areas

Research websites about the subject areas

Review the information from books and websites

Analyze data from books and websites

Develop design rationales

2.1.2 Research plan

Figure 2-1 Research plane

2.2 Researches and information Gathering (history of high-heels)

2.2.2 High-heels category style and influence

Figure 2-2.1, 2-2.2 Evolution and history of shoe types

Figure 2-2.3 Evolution and history of shoe types

2.2.3 Ergonomics of foot design

Figure 2-3.1 Ergonomics of foot A

Figure 2-3.2 Ergonomics of foot -B

Figure 2-3.3 foot with least shape

Figure 2-3.4 ergonomic of fitting with measurement

2.3.2 Materials and Technology

Figure 2-3.5 materials of heels

2.4.2 High-Heels design of Techniques

Figure 2-3.6 Manual of Shoemaking

B-The Manufacturing Process- Machine shoemaking

Figure 2-3.7 Machine welted construction

2.5 Technology in heels and heels design

Figure 2-3.8 Convertible High-Heels Design

Figure 2-3.9 Convertible High-Heels Design

2.5.2 High-Heels Design Issues and Ideas into my major project

two methods of construction: i) manual method of shoemaking, ii) machine method of

Chapter 3: Market Research

3.2 Aim & Objectives

To make a market research plan

To make a proposal with a flowchart

To develop design rationales

Figure 3-1 Market research plane

Figure 3-2 Target Strategies

3.4 Product Analysis

Figure 3-3 Hierarchy of Market Position

Figure 3-4 A.B.C Market Positions OF Labels

3.5 Design Rationales

Chapter 4: Primary Research

4.2 Aim and Objectives

Figure 4-1 Flowchart of questionnaire

4.3 Questionnaire & Interview

4.3.1 Question Analysis

Part 1: the background of the customers

Figure 4-2.1 The age of respondents

What is your occupation