Brake Types

Drum brake system
Summary
The primary components of the drum brake system are: the backing plate, the
brake drum & brake shoe assembly, the wheel cylinder, retaining clips & springs
and automatic brake self-adjuster.
Drum brakes are still found on older vehicles, and on cars with a combination of
both disc and drum brakes.
The main components of the drum brake system are:
Backing plate
Brake drum & brake shoe assembly
Wheel cylinder
Retaining clips & springs
Automatic brake self-adjuster
Backing plate
The backing plate is made

from steel and is attached to
the steering or suspension
components by bolts. It then
supports the wheel cylinder,
brake shoes and levers.
Brake drum & brake shoe assembly
The brake drum fits over the

brake linings and forms the
braking surface for these
linings.
The brake shoe assembly
consists of the steel shoe and
the brake lining material.
Wheel cylinder
The wheel cylinder is attached

to the backing plate. The
pistons push against the brake
shoes, which then make
contact with the brake drum to
slow or stop the vehicle.
Retaining clips & springs
The brakes are held against

the backing plate by retaining
clips and springs.
The hold down spring is used
to retain the the brake shoe in
position in relation to the
backing plate. During vehicle
operation it keeps the brake
shoe in position.
Automatic brake self-adjuster
To manually adjust the brakes

it may be necessary to release
the adjusting lever away from
the star wheel. To do this,
insert a small screwdriver
through the adjust slot in the
backing plate and push on the
adjusting lever. A brake
adjuster can now be used to
adjust the brakes in the usual
way.
Drum brake operation
Summary
The drum brake system operates by forcing the friction-lined brake shoes against
the inner surfaces of the rotating drums. The shoes are designed to operate with
a self-energizing action.
Drum brakes were once common on all wheels of light vehicles, but now they are
less commonly used, and even then usually only found on just the rear wheels, in
disc-drum combinations.
The drum brake has two brake shoes with a friction material called a lining
attached. These shoes expand against the inside surface of a brake drum, and
slow the wheel down. The harder the linings are forced against the brake drum,
the higher the braking force that is applied. They can be expanded mechanically,
or hydraulically.
The main advantage claimed for drum brakes is that the shoe mountings can be
designed to assist their own operation. This is called self-energizing. Less
hydraulic pressure is then needed to stop the vehicle, which is why many older
drum-braked vehicles didnt use a brake booster.
The main disadvantage of drum brakes is that the friction area is almost entirely
covered by lining, so most heat must be conducted through the drum to reach
the outside air to cool. With hard use, this can cause overheating, and eventually
brake 'fade'. Brake fade is the gradual loss of brake stopping power during
prolonged or strenuous use. Very high temperatures occur at the brake drum,
and that causes deterioration in the frictional value of the lining or pad material.
This is common in drum brakes.
Another problem with drum brakes is that it is difficult to get water out of the
drum. If a vehicle is driven through water, it takes longer to get the brakes
working effectively again.
Three brake designs are in general use:
single leading shoe,
twin leading shoe; and
duo-servo.
Each one uses the wedging or self-energizing action of the brake shoe, to assist
the lining to grip the rotating drum when the brakes are applied. The twinleading shoe has an actuator for each brake shoe. The actuator can be
mechanical, however a hydraulic actuator is popular on light vehicles. The
hydraulic actuator is called the wheel cylinder.
Some brakes have two wheel cylinders, with one piston in each cylinder. When
the brakes are applied, hydraulic pressure forces each piston to move outwards,
pushing on one end of the brake shoe. The direction of rotation of the drum
produces a wedging action on both brake shoes, so they are both called leading
shoes.
This system was once popular on front wheels because it is very efficient in the
forward direction. This is due to the self-energizing or self-wedging action of the
shoes as the drum rotates. Its main disadvantage is that it is only about 30% as
efficient in reverse, so it is usually combined with a single leading shoe
arrangement on the rear to provide a balanced system.
The single leading shoe system uses a single wheel cylinder with two pistons.
When the brakes are applied, both shoes press against the brake drum. One shoe
is called leading shoe, the other is called trailing. The leading shoe tends to be
self-energized, while the trailing shoe tends to be forced off the drum.
This arrangement is common on rear wheels as they work equally well in forward
and reverse, so it makes an effective handbrake. They can also have a selfadjusting mechanism.
The duo-servo design also uses one wheel cylinder with two pistons. It is a high
energy brake, that is, it exerts large self-energizing forces. The lower ends of the
shoes are linked but arent firmly anchored to the backing plate. This lets the
complete shoe assembly float, within limits.
When the brakes are applied, both shoes are carried around by the drum, until
the secondary shoe contacts the anchor pin. The self-energizing force of the
primary shoe and its wheel cylinder application force is now transferred to the
secondary shoe through the lower linkage. Force is then being applied to the
secondary shoe from both ends the wheel cylinder at the top, and the linkage
from the primary shoe at the bottom. The primary shoe has the shorter lining
and is always fitted ahead of the wheel cylinder in terms of drum rotation. Its
most important that the shoes are fitted correctly, since its the secondary shoe
that does most of the work. The linings may also have different frictional values.
The colors of the retraction springs indicate different spring strengths. This
design is common on rear wheels and it works well in both directions.
Drum brake systems need to be adjusted to allow for wear of the lining. If they
are not adjusted, pedal travel will be too long to be safe.
Brake linings & shoes
Summary
The brake lining is a specialized friction material, riveted or bonded to a steel
shoe. The shoe transfers the wheel cylinder movement and forces the lining
against the rotating drum.
The drum brake uses brake shoes that have friction material called linings
attached to them. Linings can be riveted or more often bonded to the brake
shoes. Most linings have a manufacturer's code on the edge of the lining which
will identify their specified co-efficient of friction.
The composition of the friction material affects brake operation. Linings which
provide good braking with low pedal pressures tend to lose efficiency when they
get hot. This means the stopping distance will be increased. Linings which
maintain a stable friction co-efficient over a wide temperature range, generally
require higher pedal pressures to provide efficient braking, and may need the
use of a booster.
This friction material was once made of asbestos but concerns about health
problems associated with asbestos have led to the use of non-asbestos
alternatives. However, if you are removing older brake linings it is impossible to

tell whether asbestos was used as a component in their manufacture, so they
must be handled with care. Wear protective clothing and make sure you do not
inhale any of the brake dust residue, and very importantly, never use an air hose
to blow brake off any component.
Backing plate
Summary
The backing plate is bolted to the axle housing or suspension member. It
provides a mounting for the wheel cylinders and brake shoes to act against the
rotating drum.
All of the brake unit components, except the brake drum, are mounted on a
backing plate bolted to the vehicle axle housing or suspension.
The backing plate is usually pressed from heavy gauge steel. It has a raised
outer edge that fits into a groove or recess in the brake drum and helps keep out
any dust or dirt.
Some vehicles have manual brake adjusters so openings are usually provided to
allow for adjustments without having to remove the wheel and brake drum.
Wheel cylinders
Summary
The wheel cylinder and piston react to hydraulic pressure from the master
cylinder, and the outward movement of the piston forces the shoe and lining
against the drum.
The wheel cylinder is located inside the brake drum, and bolted to the backing
plate. It converts hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder into mechanical
force that pushes the brake linings against the brake drum.
Wheel cylinders are either:
Single piston/single action; and
Dual action/double cylinder with a piston at each end.
They are usually made of cast iron or aluminum alloy, and they operate under
difficult conditions of extreme pressures and temperatures.. Some are sleeved
with stainless steel to be longer-wearing and more resistant to corrosion.
Contamination, particularly from water, lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid
and may cause pitting and fluid loss. The wheel cylinder cups seal the cylinder
against fluid loss.
Wheel cylinders may be fitted with a spreader and a light expansion spring to
keep the lips in contact with the cylinder during retraction and while at rest. This
helps keep air out of the system. Most wheel cylinders are fitted with bleed
nipples to allow air to be bled from the system after assembly, and a flexible
cover, or boot, allows for piston movement and also keeps out dust and
moisture.
Disc brake system
Summary
The primary components of disc brakes are: the rotor, caliper and brake pads.
Modern passenger vehicles are usually equipped with disc brakes on at least two
wheels.
The primary components of the disc brakes are:
Rotor
Caliper
Brake pads
The rotor is the main rotating part of this brake system. It is hard wearing and
resists the high temperatures that occur during braking. Its manufacturer will
specify the minimum thickness for the rotor. Rotors can be of a solid construction
or slotted. The slotted rotor is referred to as a "ventilated disc".
Rotor
Disc brakes have rotors to

dissipate heat so the brakes
work efficiently. In high
performance vehicles, the
rotors are made from
composite materials,
ceramics, or carbon fiber;
otherwise, they're made of
iron.
Some of these rotors have

directional vanes, which
means the disc can only be
fitted to one side of the
vehicle.
Caliper
The caliper straddles the rotor,

and houses the disc brake
pads and activating pistons.
The caliper is usually bolted to
the steering knuckle or, in the
case of a non-steer axle, to a
suspension component.
Brake pads
The disc pads are located

inside the caliper. The pads
clamp onto the rotor to slow or
stop the vehicle. The disc pad
consists of a friction material
bonded to a steel backing
plate.
Disc brake operation
Summary
The disc brake system converts the hydraulic pressure generated at the master
cylinder into a frictional clamping force against the rotating discs.
Disc brakes can be used on all four wheels of a vehicle, or combined with disc
brakes on the front wheels and drum brakes on the rear.
When the brake pedal is depressed, a push rod transfers the force through a
brake booster to a hydraulic master cylinder. The master cylinder converts the
force into hydraulic pressure, which is then transmitted via connecting pipes and
hoses to one or more pistons at each brake caliper. The pistons operate on
friction pads to provide a clamping force on a rotating flat disc that is attached to
the wheel hub. This clamping tries to stop the rotation of the disc, and the wheel.
On non-driving wheels, the center of the brake disc or hub contains the wheel
bearings. The hub can be part of the brake disc or a separate assembly between
the wheel and hub with nuts or bolts. On driving wheels, the disc is mounted
onto the driving axle and may be held in place by the wheel. On front wheel
drive vehicles, it can be mounted on the front hub and wheel bearing assembly.
The brake caliper assembly is bolted to the vehicle axle housing or suspension.
In most cases the brake is positioned as close as possible to the wheel, but there
are exceptions. Some high-performance cars use inboard disc brakes on its rear
wheels. The makers claim improved vehicle handling for this design because it
reduces unsprung weight.
Applying brakes can absorb a lot of vehicle energy so friction between braking
surfaces generates great heat. Brake parts withstand very high temperatures.
Most of the friction area of a disc is exposed to air so cooling is far more rapid
than for a drum brake. Unlike with drum brakes, brake fade is rare. Because of
their shape, discs tend to throw off water. So after being driven through water,
they operate almost immediately.
Disc brakes need much higher pressures to operate than drum brakes, so almost
all disc brake systems need a power brake booster to help reduce the pedal
forces that are needed from the driver. Because of the high forces needed to
apply a disc brake, using it as a handbrake is less common. Some vehicles build
a drum brake into the center of the rear disc to provide for park brake operation.
Disc brake rotors
Summary
The brake disc rotates with the road wheel. It provides a smooth surface against
which to force the brake pads, to slow or stop the vehicle.
The brake disc or rotor is the main rotating component of the disc brake unit.
Its usually made of cast iron because its hard-wearing and can resist high
temperatures.
On motorcycles, it is often made of stainless steel.
Most brake discs are stamped with the manufacturers minimum thickness
specification. When the pad wears, if the thickness of the disc were below this
minimum, the piston may go beyond the sealing edge.
Ventilated discs can be used to improve cooling. These slots are designed to use
centrifugal force to cause airflow when the disc is rotating.
Some discs are drilled or slotted on their friction surface to improve cooling and
assist with removing water.
Disc brake pads
Summary
A disc brake pad has a rigid, moulded, friction material bonded to a steel backing
plate for support during brake application. It transforms the hydraulic force of the
caliper into a frictional force against the disc.
Disc brake pads consist of friction material bonded onto a steel backing plate.
The backing plate has lugs that locate the pad in the correct position in relation
to the disc.
Calipers are usually designed so that the condition of the pads can be checked
easily once the wheel has been removed, and to allow the pads to be replaced
with a minimum of disassembly.
Some pads have a groove cut into the friction surface. The depth of this groove is
set so that when it can no longer be seen, the pad should be replaced.
Some pads have a wire in the friction material at the minimum wear thickness.
When the pad wears to this minimum thickness, the wire touches the disc as the
brakes are applied. A warning light then tells the driver the disc pads are due for
replacement.
The composition of the friction material affects brake operation. Materials which
provide good braking with low pedal pressures tend to lose efficiency when they
get hot. This means the stopping distance will be increased. Materials which
maintain a stable friction co-efficient over a wide temperature range, generally
require higher pedal pressures to provide efficient braking.
Disc rotors with holes or slots in them dissipate their heat faster, and also help to
remove water from the surface of the pad in wet driving conditions. They also
help to prevent the surface of the pad from becoming hard and glassy smooth
from the friction and heat of use. However, this scraping action reduces the
overall life of the brake pad, so these types of discs are generally only used in
high performance or racing cars.
Disc brake calipers
Summary
Disc brake calipers provide a housing for the hydraulic piston or pistons that
force the brake pads into contact with the disc.
The disc brake caliper assembly is bolted to the vehicle axle housing or
suspension.
There are 2 main types:
fixed, and
sliding.
Fixed calipers can have 2, 3, or 4 pistons. 2-piston calipers have one piston on
each side of the disc. Each piston has its own disc pad.
When the brakes are applied, hydraulic pressure forces both pistons inwards,
causing the pads to come in contact with the rotating disc.
The sliding or floating caliper has 2 pads but only 1 piston. The caliper is
mounted on pins or bushes that let it move from side to side.
When the brakes are applied, hydraulic pressure forces the piston inwards. This
pushes the pad against the disc. The caliper is free to move on slides, so there is
a clamping effect between the inner and outer pads. Equal force is then applied
to both pads which clamp against the disc.
In disc brake calipers, the piston moves against a stationary square section
sealing ring.
When the brakes are applied, the piston slightly deforms the seal.
When the brakes are released, the seal returns to its original shape. The action of
this sealing ring retracts the piston to provide a small running clearance between
the disc and pads. It also makes the brake self-adjusting.
Proportioning valves
Summary
The proportioning valve divides up the braking effort applied to front and rear
wheels under heavy braking, according to how load is distributed across a
vehicle.
The proportioning valve divides up the braking effort applied to front and rear
wheels under heavy braking, according to how load is distributed across a
vehicle.
The effectiveness of braking force is determined by tire-to-road friction. And this
increases as load increases.
Applying the brakes causes the front of this vehicle to dip. This causes greater
tire-to-road friction on the front tires, and less on the rear. This kind of change of
load is called load transfer.
So, if equal braking force is applied to the front and rear wheels, the smaller rear
load can make the rear wheels lock, and perhaps skid.
The braking force applied to the wheels needs to be adjusted to allow for
changes in load.
Proportioning valve operation
Summary
The proportioning valve adjusts the braking force applied to the wheels to allow
for changes in load.
The proportioning valve adjusts braking force to allow for load transfer. It can be
pressure-sensitive, or load-sensitive.
The pressure-sensitive valve can be in the master cylinder, or in a separate unit
in the rear brake circuit.
The load-sensitive type can be in the body or the axle, where it can respond to
load changes, and change the braking effort as needed.
Master cylinder applications usually combine the proportioning valve with a

pressure differential switch.
In normal braking, the poppet piston is held in a relaxed position by a large
pressure spring. The poppet valve is held against its retainer by a light return
spring, and fluid passes freely through the valve to the rear brakes.
In heavy braking, master cylinder pressure can reach a valves crack-point. The
pressure applied to the 2 different areas of the poppet piston creates unequal
forces. That moves the poppet piston against the large pressure spring. This
action holds the conical section of the valve against the seat, which limits the
pressure increase to the rear brakes.
As greater pedal force increases pressure in the master cylinder, fluid pressure
rises on the smaller end of the piston. This combines with the force of the
pressure spring to overcome the lower pressure now on the larger end. This
forces the piston back, clear of the poppet valve.
The increased pressure now acts on the larger end of the poppet piston and
again forces the piston forward to contact the valve.
When the pedal is released, the pressure of the rear brake fluid unseats the
poppet valve, letting fluid return to the master cylinder. The pressure spring now
returns the poppet piston to its relaxed position.
Should the front brake system fail, the warning lamp spool moves forward, taking
the poppet valve with it. Pressure in the rear brakes rises and the piston moves
forward but it cant seal on the valve.
Should the rear brake system fail, the warning lamp spool will move backwards
to activate the warning light. The proportioning valve doesnt operate in this
situation.
On a diagonally-divided system, the pressure-sensitive proportioning valve is
usually located away from the master cylinder. There is one for each circuit. They
each operate in a similar way to the pressure-sensitive proportioning valve
located in the master cylinder, but without the pressure-differential warning light
circuit.
The load-sensing proportioning valve is usually located in the rear brake circuit,
on the chassis. A diagonally-split system may have 2 load-sensing proportioning
valves, one for each brake. The unit is mounted on the chassis, around the rear
suspension.
Disc brake system
Summary
The primary components of disc brakes are: the rotor, caliper and brake pads.
Modern passenger vehicles are usually equipped with disc brakes on at least two
wheels.
The primary components of the disc brakes are:
Rotor
Caliper
Brake pads
The rotor is the main rotating part of this brake system. It is hard wearing and
resists the high temperatures that occur during braking. Its manufacturer will
specify the minimum thickness for the rotor. Rotors can be of a solid construction
or slotted. The slotted rotor is referred to as a "ventilated disc".
Rotor
Disc brakes have rotors to

dissipate heat so the brakes
work efficiently. In high
performance vehicles, the
rotors are made from
composite materials,
ceramics, or carbon fiber;
otherwise, they're made of
iron.
Some of these rotors have

directional vanes, which
means the disc can only be
fitted to one side of the
vehicle.
Caliper
The caliper straddles the rotor,

and houses the disc brake
pads and activating pistons.
The caliper is usually bolted to
the steering knuckle or, in the
case of a non-steer axle, to a
Brake pads
The disc pads are located

inside the caliper. The pads
clamp onto the rotor to slow or
stop the vehicle. The disc pad
consists of a friction material
bonded to a steel backing
plate.
Brake friction materials
Summary
Brake pads and linings are made from materials which have a high coefficient of
friction. The choice of material depends on the braking application, but it needs
to be able to absorb and disperse large amounts of heat without braking
performance being adversely affected.
Friction is the force that acts to prevent two surfaces in contact from sliding
against each other. When friction occurs, the kinetic energy (motion) of the
sliding surfaces is converted into thermal energy (heat).
Some combinations of materials, such as ice on glass, have a very low coefficient
of friction. That means that there is very little friction between them, and
therefore almost no sliding resistance. Rubber tires against a hard road surface
have a high coefficient of friction, which means they tend to grip and resist
sliding against each other.
Disc brake pads and drum brake linings are made from materials which have a
high coefficient of friction. They also need to have an ability to absorb and
disperse large amounts of heat without their braking performance being
adversely affected.
As the heat in brake pads and linings builds up, the friction capability of the
material and consequently its stopping power reduces. This is called brake
fade, and minimizing or overcoming fade is a major factor in the design of brakes
and the development of brake friction materials.
Brake friction materials were commonly made from asbestos compounds,
because of the excellent heat resistance of that material, but as that has now
been proven to be highly toxic, asbestos is generally banned and no longer used.
Brakes are now manufactured from a variety of different materials that may be:
non-asbestos organic
low metallic
semi-metallic
ceramic
The choice of compound depends on the application. Lighter passenger vehicles

generate less heat in the brakes than heavy or high performance vehicles. The
optimum brake composition for any given vehicle or use will therefore be a
combination of weighted attributes which include:
stopping power
heat absorption and dispersion
resistance to fade
recovery speed from fade
wear rate
performance when wet
noise in operation
For instance, owners of small domestic vehicles will probably tend to value a
longer pad life rather than higher performance in extreme conditions. In racing
cars, however, fade resistance and stopping power at high speeds would be
considered more important than noise levels or wear rate.
ABS brake system
Summary
The primary components of the antilock braking system are: The electronic
control unit, hydraulic control unit or modulator, power booster & master cylinder
assembly and wheel sensor unit.
ABS brakes
The antilock braking system is designed to prevent wheels locking or skidding,
no matter how hard brakes are applied, or how slippery the road surface.
The primary components of the ABS braking system are:
Electronic control unit (ECU)
Hydraulic control unit or modulator
Power booster & master cylinder assembly
Wheel sensor unit
The ECU is located inside the vehicle. It receives signals from the sensors in the
circuit and controls the brake pressure at the road wheels according to the data
analyzed by the Unit.
The location of the Hydraulic Control Unit, or Modulator, varies from

manufacturer to manufacturer. Some locate it under the fender or hood.
It receives operating signals from the ECU to apply or release the brakes under
ABS conditions.
The power booster and master cylinder assembly is mounted on the firewall and
is activated when the driver pushes down on the brake pedal. It provides the
power assistance required during braking.
Wheel sensor unit
The wheel sensor unit consists of a tooth rotor that rotates with the road wheels
and a pick-up that is located in the wheel hub.
Antilock braking system operation
Summary
The antilock braking system prevents wheels locking or skidding, no matter how
hard brakes are applied, or how slippery the road surface. Steering stays under
control and stopping distances are generally reduced.
Applying brakes too hard, or on a slippery surface, can cause the wheels to lock.
When wheels lock, steering control is lost and, in most cases, it produces longer
stopping distances. The antilock braking system prevents wheels locking or
skidding, no matter how hard brakes are applied, or how slippery the road
surface. Steering stays under control and stopping distances are generally
reduced.
It consists of a brake pedal, a master cylinder, wheel speed sensors, the
electronic control unit or ECU, and the hydraulic control unit, also called a
hydraulic modulator.
The wheel speed sensor consists of a notched or toothed rotor that rotates with
each wheel, and a pickup. As the wheel turns, a small voltage pulse is induced
into the pickup and sent to the electronic control unit. When the brakes are
applied, the wheel's speed of rotation changes. This sends a new signal to the
ECU.
If the control unit detects that a wheel might lock, it sends a signal to the
hydraulic control unit. In a three-channel system, the hydraulic control unit uses
three solenoid valves to control brake pressure and prevent them locking.
The valves are in series with the brake master cylinder and the brake circuits.
One operates for each of the front wheels and one controls both rear wheels. At
the start of a journey, the ABS automatically checks itself. Any failure in the
system lights up a warning light in the dash-panel.

Principles of ABS braking
Summary
The antilock braking system controls braking force by controlling the hydraulic
pressure of the braking system, so that the wheels do not lock during braking.
Braking force and the tendency of the wheels to lock up are affected by a
combination of factors such as the friction coefficient of the road surface, and the
difference between the vehicle speed and the road wheel speed. The ABS
prevents the road wheels from locking up during heavy braking by controlling the
vehicle's brake system hydraulic pressure.
During normal braking, as the rotational speed of the wheel falls, no electric
current flows from the ECU to the hydraulic unit. The solenoid valve is not
energized. The brake master cylinder hydraulic pressure is applied to the brake
unit, and the ABS is not involved. However, even though the ABS is passive
during normal braking, its control module is constantly monitoring for rapid
deceleration of any of the wheels.
If a wheel-speed sensor signals severe wheel deceleration - which means the
wheel is likely to lock up - the ECU sends a current to the hydraulic unit. This
energizes the solenoid valve. The action of the valve isolates the brake circuit
from the master cylinder. This stops the braking pressure at that wheel from
rising, and keeps it constant.
If the sensors signal the wheel is still decelerating too rapidly, the ECU sends a
larger current to the hydraulic unit. The armature moves even further and opens
the valve. It opens a passage from the brake circuit. Brake fluid is sent from the
brake circuit back to the master cylinder. Pressure in the brake caliper circuit is
reduced so that the wheel is braked less heavily.
If the wheel sensors indicate that lowering the brake pressure is letting the wheel
accelerate again, the ECU stops sending current to the hydraulic unit and deenergizes the solenoid valve. This lets the pressure increase, so that the wheel is
again decelerated.
This cycle repeats itself about four to six times per second.
It is normal in an ABS for the valves in the hydraulic control unit to keep
changing position as they change the brake pressure thats being applied. These
changes in position may cause rapid pulsations to be felt through the brake
pedal.
ABS master cylinder
Summary
The tandem master cylinder transforms applied brake force into hydraulic
pressure which is transferred to the wheel units through two separate circuits.
This provides residual braking in the event of fluid loss.
The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal via a pushrod.

The ABS master cylinder is similar to the tandem master cylinder used in divided
systems. It has a primary piston, and a secondary piston.
The secondary piston incorporates a centre valve. This controls the opening and
closing of a supply port drilling in the piston. At rest, the supply port is open and
connects the reservoir with the front brake circuits. The primary piston still has
an inlet port, and a compensating port.
When the brake is applied, the primary piston moves, which closes its
compensating port. Fluid pressure in the primary circuit rises. It acts with the
primary piston spring, to move the secondary piston forward, closing the centre
valve. Pressure builds in the secondary circuit. Pressure keeps building in both
circuits, and applies the brakes in both circuits.
If the secondary circuit fails, the secondary piston is forced to the end of the
cylinder. When it reaches the end, pressure builds in the primary circuit.
If the primary circuit fails, the primary piston contacts the secondary piston, and
pushes it to operate the secondary circuit.
In normal operation when the pedal is released, the springs in the master
cylinder push the pistons back more quickly than the fluid can flow back from the
wheel brake units. This creates a low pressure area in front of each piston. Such
low-pressures can cause air to be drawn into the system.
To prevent this, there are recuperating grooves in the primary piston and the
seal. Fluid at atmospheric pressure flows through the inlet port, and past these
grooves. When the primary piston is returned fully, any extra fluid coming back
from the brake units displaces fluid into the reservoir, through the compensating
port.
In the secondary circuit, fluid also at atmospheric pressure is forced back into the
inlet port. The inlet port connects with the supply port drilling in the piston. Any
difference in pressure lifts the centre valve from its seat, and lets fluid enter the
chamber ahead of the secondary seal, and prevents low pressures developing.
When the piston has returned to the rest position, the seal is pulled off its seat
by the action of the link and spring. This lets fluid still returning from the wheel
units displace fluid back to the reservoir.
If braking conditions are such that the hydraulic modulator must return brake
fluid to the master cylinder, then, for the front brake circuits, fluid is returned to
the front section. This forces the secondary piston back, against the force of the
primary piston spring, and the rear brake pressure. If enough fluid returns, the
centre valve opens, and allows fluid to return to the reservoir.
If fluid is returned from the rear brake circuit, the secondary and primary pistons
tend to be forced apart.
The amount of fluid that returns to the master cylinder is determined by the
degree of anti-lock braking control. With approximately 4 to 6 ABS control cycles
per second, the rapid changes in pressure cause pulsations that can be felt by
the driver at the brake pedal.
Hydraulic control unit
Summary
The hydraulic control unit, or modulator, executes commands in the form of
electrical signals from the ABS Control Module. It uses solenoid valves to change
the hydraulic pressure in the brake circuit.
The ABS Control Module, or ECU, sends commands in the form of electrical
signals to the hydraulic control unit. This unit executes the commands, using
three solenoid valves connected in series with the master cylinder and the brake
circuits - one valve for each front wheel hydraulic circuit, and one for both of the
rear wheels.
In normal, non-ABS braking, brake pedal force is transmitted to the master
cylinder, then through the solenoid valve to the brake unit at the wheel. When
the signals from the wheel speed sensor show no tendency for the wheel to lock
up, the ECU does not send any control current to the solenoid coil. The solenoid
valve is not energized, and the hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder is
supplied to the brake unit at the wheel.
When the control unit detects any lock-up tendency, perhaps from too-rapid
wheel deceleration, it sends a command current to the solenoid coil. This causes
the armature and valve to move upward, and isolate the brake circuit from the
master cylinder. That keeps the pressure between the solenoid and the brake
circuit constant - whether or not the master cylinder hydraulic pressure rises.
If the sensors signal continuing excessive wheel deceleration, the Control Module
sends a larger current to the solenoid valve. This lowers the braking pressure by
moving the armature up further, opening a passage from the brake circuit to an
accumulator - a temporary reservoir for any brake fluid that flows out of the
wheel brake cylinders because of the fall in pressure. A return pump sends this
brake fluid back to the master cylinder.
If the sensors then signal that the lower pressure has allowed the wheel to speed
up, the ECU stops all command current, which de-energizes the solenoid valve.
The pressure rises, and the wheel is again slowed down.
Whatever the phase of operation, pressure in the circuit can never rise above
master cylinder pressure.
Wheel speed sensors
Summary
Wheel speed sensors consist of a toothed rotor and a pickup. Wheel rotation
sends input signals to the ECU, which processes them and controls the hydraulic
control unit.
A wheel sensor consists of a toothed rotor that rotates with the wheels, and a
pickup. As each tooth of the rotor passes the pickup, a small voltage is induced in
the pickup.
These pulses are sent as input signals to the electronic control unit which
processes them, to operate the hydraulic control unit.
ABS electronic control unit
Summary
The ECU receives signals from various sources. The brake pedal, the ignition
system, and wheel speed sensors control the hydraulic control unit and
anticipate wheel lock.
The electronic control unit receives signals from different sources. A switch at the
brake pedal provides a brake-operating signal. Another in the ignition system
signals the engine is operating. This sets off the automatic check the ABS
conducts every time the engine starts.
Another input is from the wheel speed sensors. These signals are used to control
the hydraulic control unit and anticipate wheel lock. If a wheel starts to lock, the
electronic control unit operates the solenoid valves to reduce hydraulic pressure
appropriately.
ABS brake system
Summary
The primary components of the antilock braking system are: The electronic
control unit, hydraulic control unit or modulator, power booster & master cylinder
assembly and wheel sensor unit.
ABS brakes
The antilock braking system is designed to prevent wheels locking or skidding,
no matter how hard brakes are applied, or how slippery the road surface.
The primary components of the ABS braking system are:
Wheel sensor unit
The ECU is located inside the vehicle. It receives signals from the sensors in the
circuit and controls the brake pressure at the road wheels according to the data
analyzed by the Unit.
The location of the Hydraulic Control Unit, or Modulator, varies from

manufacturer to manufacturer. Some locate it under the fender or hood.
It receives operating signals from the ECU to apply or release the brakes under
ABS conditions.
The power booster and master cylinder assembly is mounted on the firewall and
is activated when the driver pushes down on the brake pedal. It provides the
power assistance required during braking.
Wheel sensor unit
The wheel sensor unit consists of a tooth rotor that rotates with the road wheels
and a pick-up that is located in the wheel hub.
Checking & adjusting brake fluid
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to check and adjust brake
fluid level. Brake fluid will absorb moisture rapidly. Always replace the cover or lid
as soon as possible.
Part 1. Preparation and safety
Objective
Check and adjust brake fluid level.
Personal safety
Whenever you perform a task in the workshop you must use personal protective
clothing and equipment that is appropriate for the task and which conforms to
your local safety regulations and policies. Among other items, this may include:
Work clothing such as coveralls and steel-capped footwear
Eye protection such as safety glasses and face masks
Ear protection such as earmuffs and earplugs
Hand protection - such as rubber gloves and barrier cream
Respiratory equipment - such as face masks and valved respirators
If you are not certain what is appropriate or required, ask your supervisor.
Safety check
Never use any petroleum or mineral based products, such as gasoline,

kerosene etc, to clean a braking system or its components. They are not
compatible and will result in a failure of the braking system and its
components. This may result in injury to the passengers or damage to the

vehicle.
Make sure that you understand and observe all legislative and personal
safety procedures when carrying out the following tasks. If you are unsure
of what these are, ask your supervisor.
Points to note
Brake fluid can damage the paintwork by softening the base paint.
Brake fluid has a hygroscopic nature; it will absorb moisture rapidly.

Always replace the cover or lid as soon as possible.
The higher the D.O.T. number of the brake fluid, the higher its boiling
point.
Do not mix any D.O.T. 5 silicone-based brake fluid with a D.O.T. 3 or 4

glycol-based fluid because they are incompatible.
As glycol-based brake fluid absorbs moisture its boiling point is lowered.

This can cause the phenomenon known as 'brake fade'.
Brake fluid is stored in the master cylinder. If you are unsure of its location,
consult the vehicle's shop manual or the owner's manual.
If your vehicle has antilock brakes, consult the owner's manual before
filling the cylinder.
If brake fluid splashes into your eyes, rinse it out with tap water
immediately.
Do not swallow brake fluid. It is toxic.
Brake fluid reservoirs will indicate the maximum and minimum levels with
a marker on the side or level bars inside the container.
Part 2: Step-by-step instruction

1. Check brake fluid
Wipe around the master cylinder top cover to prevent any dirt from
entering the system. Open the top of the master cylinder, by removing the
plastic lid, or by prying the retaining clamp from a metal cover. Look inside
the master cylinder. The fluid should be up to the FULL line on the side of
the cylinder or within half an inch of the top of each chamber.
2. Adjust brake fluid
Add the manufacturers recommended brake fluid only if needed. Replace
the cover and check that it is fully seated.
3. Final inspection
Check for any leaks around the master cylinder with a flashlight. Dilute
any brake fluid that may have been spilt with fresh clean water. Do not rub
the fluid with a cloth.
Replacing brake fluid
Summary
Most manufacturers recommend that brake fluid be changed at least every two
years. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to test and replace
brake fluid in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations.
Objective
Test and replace brake fluid in accordance with manufacturer's

recommendations.
Personal safety
Work clothing - such as coveralls and steel-capped footwear
Eye protection - such as safety glasses and face masks
Ear protection - such as earmuffs and earplugs
Safety check

kerosene etc, to clean a braking system or its components. They are not
compatible and will result in a failure of the braking system and its
components. This may result in injury to the passengers or damage to the
vehicle.
If brake fluid splashes into your eyes, rinse it out with tap water
immediately.
Do not swallow brake fluid. It is toxic.
Make sure that when you are bleeding the brakes, you do not empty the
brake fluid reservoir or you will cause internal damage to the master
cylinder.
Points to note
Brake fluid can damage the paintwork by softening the base paint.
Brake fluid has a hygroscopic nature; it will absorb moisture rapidly.
As moisture is absorbed, the boiling point is lowered. This can cause the
phenomenon known as 'brake fade'.
Always replace the reservoir cover or lid as soon as possible.
Do not use brake fluid that has been left in an open container.
Brake fluid types are identified by their D.O.T. number. The higher the
D.O.T. number, the higher its boiling point.
Most vehicles use either D.O.T. 3 or D.O.T. 4 fluid. These fluids are both
glycol-based but differ in specifications. The reservoir cover or cap will
usually state the type of fluid to be used.
A D.O.T. 5 is synthetic fluid and normally referred to as 'silicone' brake

fluid; it's usually colored purple for easy identification and it's not
recommended for vehicles fitted with ABS.
Do not mix D.O.T. 5 brake fluid with a D.O.T. 3 or 4 glycol-based fluid. They
are incompatible.
The majority of today's braking systems use a combination of dissimilar

metals. Manufacturers use aluminum in pistons and housings, steel in
some wheel cylinders and brake lines.
When moisture mixes with brake fluid a galvanic action can occur.
Galvanic action is similar to the operation of a battery. The more moisture
in brake fluid, the higher the galvanic reading and the greater the
corrosion it causes.
If you need to bleed your brakes, you may need to replace your brake
fluid.
When bleeding the brakes, it will be necessary to top up the brake fluid
after bleeding each brake station.
Most manufacturers recommend that brake fluid be changed at least every

two years. Consult your owner's manual for the specified intervals for the
model you are working on and the type of replacement brake fluid
recommended.
There are a number of different brake bleeding methods. Some repair

shops will use a 'pressure bleeder' while others may have a 'vacuum brake
bleeder'. Manual bleeding is discussed in this procedure.
Manufacturers recommend that when bleeding brakes; push the brake

pedal to the floor. If you are changing brake fluid on an older vehicle, or if
you are uncertain of the vehicle's service history, it is wise to depress the
pedal through its normal range of movement. This will prevent the
components in the master cylinder from coming into contact with
contaminants.
Brake assemblies, either disc or drum, are often referred to as braking

stations.

1. Check for galvanic reaction
Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, and set the DVOM to read voltage on
the lowest voltage range of the meter. Place one of the DVOM probes into
the brake fluid, and the other against the body of the master cylinder. The
voltage should be no greater than 0.3 volts. If the voltage is higher, this
indicates a galvanic reaction, and means that there is an unacceptable
level of moisture in the brake fluid.
2. Remove the excess brake fluid
Use an old hydrometer or similar device to suck out the contaminated fluid
from the master cylinder reservoir. Place the discarded brake fluid into a
container that can be disposed of in an environmentally friendly manner.
3. Top up with new fluid
Top up the master cylinder reservoir with clean fluid until it reaches the
FULL line. Close the brake fluid container as quickly as possible to
prevent contamination and evaporation of the fluid.
4. Manually bleed the brake system
Open the bleeder screw that is the furthest from the master cylinder and
ask an assistant to slowly push the brake pedal down. With a clear bleeder
hose inserted into a jar, you can observe the air bubbles coming out. Close
the bleeder screw off, and have the assistant slowly release the pedal.
Continue this process until there are no more air bubbles coming out of
the brake station and the new brake fluid is present. Close off the bleeder
screw and tighten it to the manufacturers specifications. Repeat this
procedure for each of the other brake stations, moving closer to the
master cylinder.
5. Inspect and test
Have your supervisor inspect each of the brake stations to ensure that
there are no leaks and the bleeder screws are closed correctly. A simple
way of doing this is to ask the assistant in the vehicle to place their foot on
the brake pedal, as if they were applying the brakes when driving the
vehicle normally. Now you can check all the bleed points and hose
connections for leaks while the assistant is maintaining the pressure on
the system, and thus any fluid that could be leaking as a result of a loose
joint in the components. After your supervisor is satisfied that it is all
correct, lower the vehicle. Carry out a final check for any leaks around the
master cylinder or brake stations. Replace the master cylinder cover and
check to see that it is fully seated. Dilute any brake fluid that may have
been spilt with fresh clean water. Ask your supervisor to check the brake
system pedal pressure, fluid levels, and visual signs of leaks. When the
supervisor is satisfied, the vehicle should be road tested by a qualified
person to ensure the integrity of the braking system.
Checking brake pads
Summary
You should check the disc brakes and disc brake linings every 15,000 kilometers
(10,000 miles). The objective of this procedure is to show you how to check
brake pads and calipers as well as check and measure rotors.
Objective
Check brake pads and calipers. Check and measure rotors.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Most vehicles have four-wheel disc brakes.
You should check the disc brakes and disc brake linings every 15,000
kilometers (10,000 miles).
After checking the brake pads, replace the road wheel but don't put lug
nuts into the socket of the impact wrench and power the lug nuts on; this
practice can lead to the wheel nuts going on cross-threaded.
When inspecting the caliper be very careful because the caliper may be
hot if the car has been driven recently.

1. Check brake caliper
Make sure the caliper is cool to the touch, then grasp it and try to move it
to make sure its mounted securely.
2. Check brake pads
Look through the dust shield on the caliper and look at the brake pads.
Check the linings on the brake pads. If they are too worn, they may have
to be replaced. The easiest way to estimate the wear is to look at the
thickness of the backing plate of the pad, and, if the thickness of the
remaining brake lining surface of the pad is the same or less than that of
the thickness of the backing plate, the pads should be replaced. If the
linings have worn so much that they are running on the pads backing
plates, have your supervisor inspect the system, as the disc may have to
be reground.
3. Check and measure the rotor
Check the visible part of the rotor for rust, scoring, and uneven wear.
Check the shop manual for the specifications of this rotor and measure its
thickness with an outside micrometer. If the reading is outside the
manufacturers specification, report it to your supervisor. Repeat these
procedures for the other three wheels.
Replacing brake pads
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to replace brake pads and
refit according to the manufacturer's recommended procedure. Remember to
remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder before you raise the
vehicle.
Objective
Replace brake pads and refit according to the manufacturer's

recommended procedure.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Before you raise the vehicle, you will need to remove some of the brake
fluid from the master cylinder. Using a siphon, remove enough fluid to
cause the reservoir level to drop well below the fill mark. This allows the
fluid in the lines to return to the reservoir without overflowing when you
retract the caliper pistons for the new pads.
During inspection, the flexible brake hose will need to be supported

because it is still attached to the caliper. The easiest way to do this is by
fastening a length of wire around the caliper and attaching it to a
Do not let the caliper hang unsupported because you may damage the
flexible brake hose.

1. Remove brake fluid
Before you raise the vehicle, you will need to remove some of the brake
fluid from the master cylinder to allow for fluid return into the master
cylinder reservoir when you install the new brake pads. Using a siphon,
remove enough fluid so that the reservoir level is well below the fill mark.
2. Raise the vehicle and remove wheel assembly
Raise the vehicle to a comfortable working height. Remove the wheel
assembly.
3. Inspect the brake assembly
Check for any signs of fluid leaks or grease leakage from the hub seal.
Check for any signs of a cracked or damaged rotor. Inspect the brake lines
to see if there are any signs of leakage or deterioration of the flexible
hoses.
4. Remove the brake pads
Loosen and remove the caliper location pins or bolts. Lift and rotate the
caliper away from the rotor. Ensure that the caliper is not hanging
unsupported. Secure and support the caliper by fastening a length of wire
around it and attaching it to a suspension component. Remove the worn
brake pads from the caliper by pulling them from their guide locations. It is
good practice to lightly skim the rotors when new pads are to be installed,
so arrange with your supervisor to have the rotor machined. Carry out a
run out test with a dial gauge in addition to measuring rotor thickness with
an outside micrometer. This will determine the amount of material to be
skimmed. Mount the dial gauge fixture to a fixed point in relation to the
rotor, so that when the rotor is turned it shows how much run out variation
there is in the disc. Check the amount of run-out against the
manufacturers specifications and report any excessive tolerances in your
findings to your supervisor .
5. Check the slide or locating pins
Check the locator pins, sleeves, and insulators for any signs of wear or
binding. With the sliding caliper type, ensure the caliper can slide freely on
the runners.
6. Retract the piston
To fit new pads, you will need to retract the caliper piston back into its
housing. One of the most common methods is to fit a block of wood and a
C or G clamp over the piston. Tighten the clamp to retract the piston
back into the housing. As the piston moves back, it will displace brake fluid
back into the master cylinder reservoir. Remove the block of wood and
clamp after the piston has been retracted.
7. Install the new brake pads
Compare the new brake pads to the originals to confirm that they are the
correct pads to install. The backing plates should be exactly the same
shape. Install the new pads into the caliper. Slide the caliper assembly
onto the rotor, and align the mounting or locating pins. Refer to the shop
manual for the correct procedure and specifications for installing the pins
or bolts. Install the pins or bolts and secure them in place. Torque the bolts
or retainers to the correct specification.
8. Check/remove brake system air and refit wheels
Using the correct procedure bleed the brakes and refit the wheel
assemblies.
Removing & replacing a rotor
Summary
Before working on a vehicle's brakes, attach a safety notice to the vehicle to
prevent people attempting to operate the brakes. The objective of this procedure
is to show you how to safely remove and reinstall a disc brake rotor.
Objective
Safely remove and reinstall a disc brake rotor.
Personal safety
Safety check
Brake components can be very hot even though they do not appear to be.
Take precautions against burns when working on them.
Always follow the manufacturers procedure and specifications.
Do not allow the disc calliper to hang by the brake hose. Support it with a
piece of wire.
Properly clean and dispose of brake dust.
Seat the brake pads in position before driving the vehicle.
Points to note
Clean the mating surfaces of the hub and rotor before assembly.
If the rotor is being replaced with a new rotor, clean it according to the
installation instructions.
Test the brake pedal to seat the brake pads before driving the vehicle.

1. Attach safety notice
Before working on a vehicles brakes, attach an appropriate label to the
vehicle to prevent accidental actuation of the brake caliper while it is
removed from the hub.
2. Prepare the vehicle
Safely raise the vehicle and remove the wheel.
Remove the brake pads and caliper; making sure the caliper is located
safely away from the rotor.
3. Remove the rotor
Remove the rotor by unbolting the securing device and sliding it away
from the wheel hub.
4. Prepare the new rotor
Before installing the new rotor, clean it thoroughly in a component washer
to remove any storage preservative agents.
5. Fit the rotor
Clean any dirt, rust and debris from the hub mating surface. Secure the
rotor to the hub and rotate it by hand to ensure it rotates freely.
6. Reassemble the wheel

Refit the brake caliper and disc pads. Apply the brakes several times to
readjust the caliper pistons. Refit the road wheel & safely lower the
vehicle.
7. Road test the vehicle
Ask your supervisor to check the brake system pedal pressure, fluid levels,
and visual signs of leaks. When the supervisor is satisfied, the vehicle
should be road tested by a qualified person to ensure the integrity of the
braking system.
Removing & replacing a rotor
Summary
Before working on a vehicle's brakes, attach a safety notice to the vehicle to
prevent people attempting to operate the brakes. The objective of this procedure
is to show you how to safely remove and reinstall a disc brake rotor.
Objective
Safely remove and reinstall a disc brake rotor.
Personal safety
Safety check
Brake components can be very hot even though they do not appear to be.
Take precautions against burns when working on them.
Always follow the manufacturers procedure and specifications.
Do not allow the disc calliper to hang by the brake hose. Support it with a
piece of wire.
Properly clean and dispose of brake dust.
Seat the brake pads in position before driving the vehicle.
Points to note
Clean the mating surfaces of the hub and rotor before assembly.
If the rotor is being replaced with a new rotor, clean it according to the
installation instructions.
Test the brake pedal to seat the brake pads before driving the vehicle.

1. Attach safety notice
Before working on a vehicles brakes, attach an appropriate label to the
vehicle to prevent accidental actuation of the brake caliper while it is
removed from the hub.
Safely raise the vehicle and remove the wheel.
Remove the brake pads and caliper; making sure the caliper is located
safely away from the rotor.
3. Remove the rotor
Remove the rotor by unbolting the securing device and sliding it away
from the wheel hub.
4. Prepare the new rotor
Before installing the new rotor, clean it thoroughly in a component washer
to remove any storage preservative agents.
5. Fit the rotor
Clean any dirt, rust and debris from the hub mating surface. Secure the
rotor to the hub and rotate it by hand to ensure it rotates freely.
6. Reassemble the wheel
Refit the brake caliper and disc pads. Apply the brakes several times to
readjust the caliper pistons. Refit the road wheel & safely lower the
vehicle.
7. Road test the vehicle
Ask your supervisor to check the brake system pedal pressure, fluid levels,
and visual signs of leaks. When the supervisor is satisfied, the vehicle
should be road tested by a qualified person to ensure the integrity of the
braking system.
Checking wheel cylinders
Summary
Some vehicles still have drum brakes or a combination of discs and drums.
Passenger cars with this combination will have the drum brakes on the rear.
Brake linings should be checked approximately every 15,000 kilometers (10,000
miles). The objective of this procedure is to show you how to check wheel
cylinders, drum brake linings and measure brake drums.
Objective
Check wheel cylinders, drum brake linings and measure brake drums.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Brake linings should be checked approximately every 15,000 kilometers

(10,000 miles).
Check under the dust cap to make sure that the wheel cylinder is not
leaking. If you find a leaking wheel cylinder, report it to your supervisor.

1. Remove the drums
Some vehicles still have drum brakes or a combination of discs and drums.
Passenger cars with this combination will have the drum brakes on the
rear. Remove the brake drums. Be careful when you touch the brakes, they
may be hot if the vehicle has been driven recently.
2. Check wheel cylinders and linings
Inspect the external portion of the wheel cylinder. If the backing plate is
covered with an oily substance you will need to determine if it is brake
fluid or grease. Brake fluid will wash away with water so try washing it off.
If it does not wash off then it is probably grease from a faulty seal.
Carefully lever the rubber dust seals back, and inspect the inner portion of
the cylinder for any signs of leakage.
3. Check the brake shoes
Check the thickness of the brake shoe lining. You will need to consult the
shop manual for the allowable minimum thickness. If the thickness is at
this point or close to the minimum you must inform your supervisor. Also,
if the brake shoe linings are covered in oil or grease they must be
replaced. Report any signs of contamination or leakage to your supervisor.
4. Check and measure the drum
Visually inspect the drum-braking surface for scoring. Any large score
marks mean that the drum will have to be machined or replaced. Measure
the inner diameter of the brake drum at several points around the
circumference. Consult the shop manual for the specifications for an outof-round condition. If the reading is outside the manufacturers
specification, report it to your supervisor.
5. Reassemble the drum brake
Reassemble the drum brake. Repeat the procedure for the other drum
brake assemblies .
Replacing brake linings
Summary
Linings are designed to withstand extreme heat generation during braking. The
linings must be able to withstand these temperatures and still maintain their
braking efficiency. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to remove
and replace drum brake linings.
Objective
Remove and replace drum brake linings.
Personal safety
Safety check

kerosene etc, to clean a braking system or its components. Doing so can
result in a failure of the braking system and its components. This may
result in serious injury, or damage to the vehicle.
Points to note
Linings are designed to withstand extreme heat generation during braking.

The linings must be able to withstand these temperatures and still
maintain their braking efficiency.
Oil or grease contaminants on the lining can have an adverse effect on the
co-efficient of friction of the linings.
If you need to bleed your brakes, you may need to replace your brake
fluid.
If you are bleeding brakes on an older vehicle, or you don't know the
vehicle's service history, it is good practice not to fully depress the brake
pedal during bleeding.

Before you raise the vehicle you will need to remove some of the brake
fluid from the master cylinder. Using a siphon, remove enough fluid to
cause the reservoir level to be below the fill mark. This allows for a fluid
expansion when you retract the wheel cylinder pistons for the new linings.
Raise the vehicle using the correct procedure to a comfortable working
height and remove the wheel assembly.
2. Remove and inspect the brake drum
Remove the brake drum taking care to remove any locating screws and
back off any manual adjusters if fitted during the removal process. Check
for any signs of fluid leaks or grease leakage from a hub or axle shaft seal.
Check the brake drum for any signs of cracks or other damage.
3. Inspect the brake lines
Inspect the brake lines to see if there are any signs of leakage or
deterioration of flexible and/or steel hoses. If replacement is required
report this to your supervisor.
4. Remove the brake shoes and linings
Install a brake cylinder clamp onto the wheel cylinder. This will prevent the
piston coming out when you release the brake shoes. Check with the shop
manual for the correct service tools you need to release the springs and
clips. Using the correct tool, release the retaining clips and disconnect the
return springs. Remove the worn brake shoes and their linings from the
backing plate.
5. Check the retaining clips and return springs
Check the condition of the return springs making sure they have not got
spread coils that will reduce their efficiency. Check that the retaining clips
are not damaged and will keep the brake shoes in position.
6. Install the new brake shoes
Compare the new brake shoes and their linings to the original ones to
make sure they are the correct replacements. Referring to the shop
manual, install the brake shoes onto the backing plate. Install the return
springs and retaining clips in accordance with the manufacturers

specification and direction.
7. Refit the brake drum
As the return spring tension takes effect, the wheel cylinder piston should
move back into the cylinder. If it doesnt you may have to manually retract
the piston. Now refit the brake drum. Prepare the cylinder for bleeding
using a clear bleeder hose and a jar with a small amount of brake fluid in
the base. Open the bleeder screw and have your assistant slowly push the
brake pedal down and observe the air bubbles coming out. Close the
bleeder screw off, and have the assistant slowly release the pedal.
Manually adjust the brakes if necessary to ensure that the drum rotates
without binding. Refit the wheel and tire assembly using the correct
procedure. Repeat this process for each of the other drum brake stations.
8. Bleed system if required and test
If at the completion of the replacement process the brake pedal feels
spongy, you should bleed the system of air from all of the brake
stations. Using the correct procedure to do this, and at the completion of
the job, you should recheck the system to ensure that a firm pedal is
achieved, and that the wheels cannot be rotated when the brake pedal is
applied. Have your supervisor check the system and verify the repair.
Adjusting a park brake cable
Summary
There are two main ways of adjusting park brakes on vehicles; one method is
done from underneath the vehicle, and the other from inside. A vehicle will only
be fitted with one method of adjustment.The objective of this procedure is to
show you how to check and adjust park brake cable following the manufacturer's
procedure.
Objective
Check and adjust park brake cable following the manufacturer's

procedure.
Personal safety
Safety check
If the vehicle is being raised on a floor jack, safety stands must be used to
prevent the possibility of the vehicle coming down while you are under it.
Normally, the vehicle will be serviced on a hoist.
Points to note
The park brake must operate independently of the service brakes.
Some manufacturers use an equalizer bracket to make sure that each

brake station receives the same or equal pressure.
The park brake can operate off the front or rear brakes. In some
applications it operates off the back of the transmission output shaft.

There are two main ways of adjusting park brakes on vehicles; one method
is done from underneath the vehicle, and the other from inside. A vehicle
will only be fitted with one method of adjustment. The park brake is also
known as the emergency brake. It must be able to operate independently
from the service brakes. To check the brakes serviceability raise the car on
a jack or hoist, making sure that the car is secure when raised. If you use a
floor jack, make sure you support the vehicle with axle stands under the
vehicle. Make sure the parking brake is off. Ensure the service brakes have
been adjusted and are operative before carrying out any park brake
adjustments. Check the shop manual for the correct adjustment travel for
the vehicle.
2. Check/adjust parking brake cable (under vehicle)
Trace the thin steel cables that run from each of the rear wheels until they
meet under the car. Where they intersect there is normally a threaded rod
with an adjusting nut located in a trunion. Loosen the jam nut, and turn
the adjusting nut screw until the cables tighten, and then tighten the jam
nut to hold the rod in place. Rotate the rear wheels to ensure they are not
binding.
3. Check/adjust parking brake cable (in vehicle)
Remove the protective cover from around the park brake lever or handle.
Loosen the jam nut on the adjusting rod and turn the adjusting screw until
the cables tighten, and then tighten the jam nut to hold the screw in place.
Replace the cover over the cables to prevent any dirt entering into the
vehicle. Rotate the rear wheels to ensure they are not binding.
4. Test the vehicle
Lower the car, and then test it by parking on an incline, by applying the
hand brake and counting the clicks to ensure that lever movement is in
accordance with specifications and to make sure the brake holds the
vehicle properly. While youre driving note whether the parking light
emergency light is on, if so look at the manufacturers recommendations
for the correct method to adjust the parking brake sensor unit.

Brake Types

Transféré par

Informations du document

Copyright

Formats disponibles

Partager ce document

Partager ou intégrer le document

Options de partage

Avez-vous trouvé ce document utile ?

Ce contenu est-il inapproprié ?

Droits d'auteur :

Formats disponibles

Brake Types

Transféré par

Droits d'auteur :

Formats disponibles

Drum brake system

Brake drum & brake shoe assembly

Retaining clips & springs

Automatic brake self-adjuster

The backing plate is made

Brake drum & brake shoe assembly

The brake drum fits over the

The wheel cylinder is attached

Retaining clips & springs

The brakes are held against

Automatic brake self-adjuster

To manually adjust the brakes

Drum brake operation

single leading shoe,

twin leading shoe; and

Brake linings & shoes

alternatives. However, if you are removing older brake linings it is impossible to

Single piston/single action; and

Dual action/double cylinder with a piston at each end.

Disc brake system

Disc brakes have rotors to

Some of these rotors have

The caliper straddles the rotor,

The disc pads are located

Disc brake operation

Disc brake rotors

Disc brake pads

Disc brake calipers

Proportioning valve operation

Master cylinder applications usually combine the proportioning valve with a

Disc brake system

Disc brakes have rotors to

Some of these rotors have

The caliper straddles the rotor,

The disc pads are located

Brake friction materials

The choice of compound depends on the application. Lighter passenger vehicles

heat absorption and dispersion

recovery speed from fade

performance when wet

ABS brake system

The primary components of the ABS braking system are:

Electronic control unit (ECU)

Hydraulic control unit or modulator

Power booster & master cylinder assembly

Wheel sensor unit

Electronic control unit (ECU)

Hydraulic control unit or modulator

The location of the Hydraulic Control Unit, or Modulator, varies from

Power booster & master cylinder assembly

Wheel sensor unit

Antilock braking system operation

ABS master cylinder

The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal via a pushrod.

Hydraulic control unit

Wheel speed sensors

ABS electronic control unit

ABS brake system

The primary components of the ABS braking system are:

Electronic control unit (ECU)

Hydraulic control unit or modulator

Power booster & master cylinder assembly

Wheel sensor unit

Electronic control unit (ECU)