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http://www.instructables.com/id/123D-Scanner-Home-made-3D-Scanner/
Intro: 123D Scanner - Home made 3D Scanner
Hey - have a look at my new project HERE
In this project I built a 3D Scanner, that enables generating 3D models of physical objects.
The files can later be viewed in 3D software (GLC Player, Sketchup, Rhino, or sites such as http://3dfile.io)
and even manipulated into .STL file and 3D printed.
The software for this project is completely free, I am using Autodesk's 123D catch, Link:123D catch
The 123D Catch is a great software, it requires taking many photos of an object all around it, and uploading it into the software, and it returns a 3D file.
Since I really liked the solution but did not wanted to take the photos myself - I built an instrument that does that -
description hence.
Please note that this document does not intend to explain how to use 123D catch (this can be found here )
The design of the scanner is quite simple, and consists of 3 main parts:
1. The chassis - this is the part that sits on the table and carries the scanning Surface and the scanned object on it
2. Scanner arm - The arm has the camera in the end of it, and a servo motor that presses on the button and take all of the pictures, the arm rotates around the
scanning surface and takes pictures every few degrees. Pay attention that there's a weight to balance the own weight of the camera (*)
3. Scanning surface - a round board, with colored stripes on it, carries the scanned object. (**)
(*) The reason that the arm rotates around the object instead turning the object around is in purpose to make the stitching algorithm work easier, since if the object
rotates, and the surrounding stays the same, the software work becomes complicated and the model doesnt work so well, environment -same as light sources shadows
and all. (I did built one model with turned stage but the results were awful)
(**) The color stripes on the base are also in purpose to help the stitching algorithm - the help (colors, number of lines, orientation) to stitch.
http://www.instructables.com/id/123D-Scanner-Home-made-3D-Scanner/
Step 2: The chassis
The chassis is built from MicroRax (Link ) profiles and parts, which is very easy to use and enables the arm to rotate almost 360 degreed around the object, it also host
the rotation Servo (Full rotation servo - SpringRC SM4303)
It's base is approx rectangular 30x30 [cm]
http://www.instructables.com/id/123D-Scanner-Home-made-3D-Scanner/
Step 4: The rotating arm
The role of the arms is to carry the camera and rotate it around the scanned object, it has 3 main components:
Camera (Nikon Coolpix L10), any camera will do as long as its optical features can take photos in approx 10[cm] otherwise the pictures will become blurred and
the 3D model will not be able to built.
Small servo - that pushes the camera button, (any DX.com servo will work) I thought of hacking into the camera, but since it is my wife's - i didn't to it...
Balancer - Metal block that balances the own weight of the camera and the servo and maintain the center of gravity on the axis of the rotation servo
http://www.instructables.com/id/123D-Scanner-Home-made-3D-Scanner/
Step 5: Scanner assembly
Hardware assembly:
This is quite straight forward, assemble the parts as seen in the pictures, ensure that the wires are long enuogh and will not get stuck during operation.
Wiring - As can be seen in the figure - the two servos are connected to the Arduino, They are NOT similar, The full rotation servo (connected to Digital pin 3) is
controlled thru PWM protocol, while the button servo is controlled with Servo object.
Arduino sketch - attached, please pay attention to the delays and their remarks.
----------------
#include <Servo.h>
Servo servo1;
int analogPin = 3;
int pos = 0;
void setup()
{
pinMode(analogPin, OUTPUT); // sets the pin as output
servo1.attach(9);
void loop()
{
for ( int i=1; i<30; i++){ // Rotation clockwise in small steps
analogWrite(analogPin, 125); //rotate
delay(300); // rotation duration
http://www.instructables.com/id/123D-Scanner-Home-made-3D-Scanner/
analogWrite(analogPin, 0); // stop rotation
// Camera servo
delay(1500); //vibration stop
for(pos = 0; pos < 100; pos += 1)
{
servo1.write(pos);
delay(5);
}
delay(3000); //camera shooting time
servo1.write(0);
http://www.instructables.com/id/123D-Scanner-Home-made-3D-Scanner/
Step 8: Wall painting robot - check my new creation @ http://www.keerbot.com
Wall painting robot - check my new creation @ http://www.keerbot.com
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robot - Open Drawbot 1.0
$100 Mural Arduino Learn to Grafitti
Source ! RC Submarine (Photos) by
(KeerBot.com) drawing robot Drawbot by Easy by
(also works as a Hack - Android carolineverellen
(Photos) by controller biomech75 BalintRules
giant etch-a-
wavegm (Arduino,
sketch) by Android,
aggrav8d Submarine,
Bluetooth) by
wavegm
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Comments
44 comments Add Comment
I have not tried this because I just now read this article and this is what came to mind. If someone tries this before I get the chance, please post results here.
Us lazy people make the best inventors...we always look for an easier way !
For lasers I would suggest looking into the moedls app for iphone, this thing looks amazing. www.moedls.com too bad the kickstarter failed. The system
uses a green line laser and takes a video of the subject turning on a turntable.
I also love your idea to automate catch. In my head the rig I see is two rings of diffused led lights affixed to a turntable, and then rotate the object and the
turntable with the lights in a dark room or cover the thing in a box maybe during the day? This is effectively MORE complex than your solution, but it sounds
like a fun build to me. Reality states I will never get around to doing this though, heh. Just having the lights on the turntable in the darkness would speed up
the picture taking process immensely though.
Has anyone tried 123d catch with NO shadows on an object? Does it need shadows to function correctly?
http://www.instructables.com/id/123D-Scanner-Home-made-3D-Scanner/
Nyxius says: Sep 5, 2013. 4:59 AM REPLY
Wouldn't it have been simpler to keep the camera stationary and to rotate the platform?
Although i am thinking why not use a webcam? They are quite high quality, and because of the small field of view, it wouldn't need a high MP count?
Additionally, you can totally disassemble it, and only have the actual lens and sensor mounted greatly reducing the weight?
Put item on plater, manually take picture, manually turn to next position and aligh marks, take picture etc etc until done.
http://www.instructables.com/id/123D-Scanner-Home-made-3D-Scanner/
wavegm says: Oct 11, 2012. 1:45 PM REPLY
please read the remarks
However if the idea was to ALSO capture the change of background as a movement and/or lighting from a particular direction casting shodows of the
object, then you need to construct a supporting ring or surface with bearings to fix the wobbles on the camera, the bearings need to be set apart on
the rail or surface and use a triangular frame to raise the camera - no wobbles and huge range of adjustment for camera down angle from bottom to
top of the support triangle.
You could even tilt the top of the triangle support towards the object or away for other effects, and even use a servo motor to move the camera up
and down while taking images.
My assumtion was that an item would be well lit from all angles to get the clearest image of it in 3D rotation - easier done by rotating the item infront
of excellent lighting all around the item.
If that's the case, it wouldn't be enough to rotate the subject under good lighting, you'd also have to rotate the lights in sync with the subject. That
means either affixing small lights to the turntable (easy, but probably not the best kind of lighting for this), or putting your studio lights on computer
controlled motorized circular dolly tracks (completely impractical).
The fact that the process can work using hand held camera (as per the demos on the 123D Catch site) means you don't really need to worry
quite that much about stability with your camera rig. As long as the pictures are sharp and the distance & focal length constant, you probably get
more than enough precision for an accurate model. I'd guess that a little bit of camera wobble between frames probably won't make an
appreciable difference, otherwise handheld would be completely useless.
That said, some kind of sliding mount on the vertical bar of the camera arm so you can take additional series from other elevations would
definitely be good. and a circular bearing or track would be better for getting true 360 degree coverage (this rig only gets maybe 330 because the
stand prevents the camera arm from moving completely around).
( you can't patent it after you have disclosed the idea without a non-disclosure agreement )
http://www.instructables.com/id/123D-Scanner-Home-made-3D-Scanner/
3D_Laserfreak says: Oct 11, 2012. 7:05 AM REPLY
For some set ups it might be useful to turn the camera around the object, but from my experience I can say that a rotating table with some markings in
different colors work well and would keep the setup a bit more compact.
Also most modern cameras offer a remote trigger, eiter using a wired connection or a remot control - might be worth of using it for a more permanent
solution.
One of the biggest problems I encountered so far is the simple problem that not all areas can be made visible to cam from one fixed height.
I was experimenting with a dual cam setup before I started laserscanning.
During that time I noticed that it often makes sense to use a low resolution to build an object and a high resolution to grab the texture of an object where
needed.
Sadly I did not take any pics but I try to describe the rig I used as I think it will make you system easier to replicate:
For the object table I used simple MDF board about 60x60cm.
In the centered I glued two A4 sheets containing random lines and patterns in different colors to give the programm something more to work with.
The main difference to your setup is that I added two boards on each side with a cross section ot top, creating a frame over the center object area with the
cross bar about 50cm over the object table.
In the centre ot that cross bar I added a 10x10cm and 1cm thick steel plate and drilled a 8mm hole through the metal and the cross bar.
For the turning mechanism I used a simple bike rim with one side of the axle going through the cross bar and steel plate.
Being a steel rim it was easy to weld a proper mount for cams on it and it was stable enough to turn without dropping on the cameras side - but adding a
counterweight on the opposite side is better.
I turned the rim by hand and had simple marks on it or every 20° to line up with the cross bar, the trigger was activated using a remote control.
Whole setup took about 3 hours to built and worked fine with 2 cameras attached to it.
If I would biuld it again I would use one cam on each side instead both on the same to make sure the weight is distributed more evenly.
Of course it is just a suggestion and you should decide on the frame/plate dimensions depending on the rim and object size you intent to use.
What cameras do you use ? I searched a lot for remote controlled cameras in a reasonable price and found nothing
Improvise !
I have also tried similar thing. I added different pattern for background. But that did not worked as expected. For me, 123D catch gave better results when I
used abstract backgrounds. I have also read somewhere about a user's experience, which was similar to mine.
However your project came out pretty well! Now I'm gonna try with your setup!
Gilad.
http://www.instructables.com/id/123D-Scanner-Home-made-3D-Scanner/
___ says: Oct 9, 2012. 4:26 PM REPLY
Because of the way 123D Catch works, you usually get better results by moving the camera.
http://www.instructables.com/id/123D-Scanner-Home-made-3D-Scanner/