Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
com Forums
1 of 11
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357575
RimfireCentral.com Forums > Other Rimfire Guns > Marlin - H&R - NEF > Marlin Semiautomatic
User Name
Password
Register
FAQ
Community
Remember Me?
Calendar
5 >
Display Modes
09-16-2010, 11:28 AM
Eric0424
#1
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
TPC Rating:
Dec 2009
I'm right here
2,281
0% (0)
4/2/2015 8:47 PM
2 of 11
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357575
Photo #2 shows me taking a height measurement of .305" with the depth gauge on a set of Brown & Sharpe 6" dial calipers. The calipers you see in the background are
some 4" china knock-offs, they work if I keep them adjusted, but the Brown & Sharpe are much nicer.
#2
Photo #3 shows the direction (red arrow) I used to cut the sear, the only reason I chose this direction was because of the narrow stone. It was all I had in fine or ultra
fine. If you have a stone wider than the sear surface you can cut in the direction of the yellow arrows.
#3
4/2/2015 8:47 PM
3 of 11
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357575
Photo #4-A is a crude drawing of what the sear looked like before (left) and after (center). You do not have to cut a new angle on the entire sear surface area, the
hammer hook is not deep enough to use the whole surface. Cutting just half was more than enough on my rifle. Photo's 4-B through 4-D are updated pics of a freshly
worked sear.
The far right image shows where the face of the sear was reduced with the same stone. This is only recommended if you have excessive sear creep, Marlin uses less
than a third of the sear surface (photos #5 yellow arrow, & #6) to start with and if you remove too much the sear is worthless. All I removed was about .005" from this
area.
#4-A
#4-B
4/2/2015 8:47 PM
4 of 11
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357575
#4-C
#4-D
4/2/2015 8:47 PM
5 of 11
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357575
In pictures #5 and 6 you can see the sear and hammer are fully engaged, it looks like only about 25% of the sear surface is catching the hammer hook.
#5
#6
4/2/2015 8:47 PM
6 of 11
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357575
The picture below shows the results of the trigger pull gauge after the work was finished. It took four sessions with the stone and test firing at the range to achieve the
sub 3-lb trigger pull.
4/2/2015 8:47 PM
7 of 11
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357575
Using the tools above your first attempt should give you a trigger pull just over 4-lbs, that's what mine was. I just raised the sear a bit, worked it again, then test fired
until I got the 2-lb 10-oz trigger pull seen below. Just work slowly and test fire the rifle each time you change the sear.
Unfortunately I didn't have the trigger pull gauge before the sear work, so I don't have a before trigger pull image. I'll order a new sear and hammer soon to install and
get a factory, unmodified reading posted later.
Currently my Model 60 has a DIP target trigger, the new angle on the sear, the hammer and sear matting surfaces are polished with 1200 grit sand paper and I
shaved about .005" off the face of the sear. (see pic #4 far right, red image) The springs are less than 6 months old, most are factory replacements with the
exception of the J&P hammer and recoil spring kit.
The result is a trigger that's smooth, breaks clean just under 2-lbs 10-oz and has zero pre-travel thanks to the set screw in the DIP trigger. The over-travel was
never much of an issue with me, but if you would like to reduce yours the DIP trigger guards are drilled and tapped for a trigger stop screw or you can drill and
tap you factory trigger guard.
Tool list used for the sear work detailed above, plus the tools needed to break down the action:
Norton ultra-fine triangle shaped stone (any fine or ultra-fine stone will work)
Set of dial caliper, 4" or 6" is fine
Lyman trigger pull gauge, 0-12-lbs part #7832248
One 2" tool makers vise, can be purchased from e-Bay or Shars. (china knock-off, but works)
4/2/2015 8:47 PM
8 of 11
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357575
09-16-2010, 12:40 PM
#2
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
TPC Rating:
cross3700
Sep 2010
Michigan
88
0% (0)
09-16-2010, 01:15 PM
#3
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
TPC Rating:
Team RFC Since:
Team RFC To:
9 fingers
Team RFC
Jan 2009
the New Hampshire part of NJ
5,491
100% (36)
Aug 2010
Mar 2016
I 2nd that!
9 fingers
#4
09-16-2010, 01:38 PM
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
TPC Rating:
Rimfirechris
Jun 2010
Wester WA
286
0% (0)
4/2/2015 8:47 PM
9 of 11
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357575
#5
09-16-2010, 01:44 PM
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
TPC Rating:
grizz420
Apr 2007
upstate NY
2,234
0% (0)
Quote:
#6
09-16-2010, 05:32 PM
greentudor
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
TPC Rating:
Aug 2010
Tidewater area, VA
40
0% (0)
I am really glad that this subject is still "hot" as I am getting ready to perform this task myself very soon. I recieved some new springs yesterday from Brownell's (two
days!)and a DIP drop-in trigger on Tuesday(ordered on Saturday. WOW!) and the J&P spring kit is on the way as I write this. I grabbed a vise off of e-bay a couple
weeks ago and all I need now is the stone which I think I can borrow. I really appreciate what Eric0424 has done for all of us; not just for the sake of the present
project but for encouraging some of us to get deeper into gunsmithing in general by his example. He is obviously a Hot-rodder at heart. Anyway, I do have a question
regarding that little set-screw on the DIP trigger. Does this screw need to be "locked" with a drop of Lock-Tite? Their screw is very short and with so few threads
engaged in that soft aluminum, I wonder if it will get sloppy or loosen after some use. I think I would prefer a longer screw so that all the threads are engaged. any
thoughts on that, anyone? I dunno, maybe it's time to invest in an allen screw assortment.
#7
09-16-2010, 06:48 PM
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
TPC Rating:
Eric0424
Dec 2009
I'm right here
2,281
0% (0)
Thanks guys, I think knowledge like this should be shared with anyone willing to do the work on their own rifles and handguns.
Quote:
09-17-2010, 07:55 AM
greentudor
#8
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
TPC Rating:
Aug 2010
Tidewater area, VA
40
0% (0)
Yeah, I think I will get a longer one and maybe put a little something on the threads too. It just makes sense to me to use all of the thread since there is so little to
begin with. I believe in over-building things mechanical since I've spent much of my life fixing stuff that's broken. I tried to communicate my thoughts on this screw
thing to DIP via their e-mail system and my messages got rejected. I don't know why that happened but you just saved me a phone call. Thanks again.
10-31-2010, 01:31 AM
roaoro
#9
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
TPC Rating:
Dec 2009
CA
111
100% (2)
So... I managed to take off a bit too much on my sear... I didn't have quite the perfect equipment or tools for the mod, but tried to make it work . I did take my time,
and quite honestly, the trigger pull is now beautiful, but it's no longer user friendly or safe to say the least
Where's the best place to get a new sear? Not much comes
up on the search.
10-31-2010, 06:52 PM
Eric0424
#10
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
TPC Rating:
Dec 2009
I'm right here
2,281
0% (0)
4/2/2015 8:47 PM
10 of 11
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357575
Quote:
11-02-2010, 01:59 PM
#11
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
TPC Rating:
roaoro
Dec 2009
CA
111
100% (2)
Quote:
#12
11-02-2010, 10:41 PM
Big Shrek
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
TPC Rating:
Feb 2009
NW Florida
5,031
0% (0)
11-15-2010, 11:19 PM
superx1
#13
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
TPC Rating:
Aug 2010
Sacramento CA
14
0% (0)
Eric,
Your tutorial was invaluable. I followed your steps outlining polishing the sear in picture #4 (middle (4b if you will)). I have a tool makers vice like yours and bought an
Arkansas polishing stone like the one in your pictures for about $8. After 2 polishing sessions with a reassembly and shooting session in between the trigger is now
perfect. Final result is about a 3lb pull with no creep and it holds safe. Your posting combined with ArrowDodger's PPT presentation allowed me to make this rifle better
than I hoped.
Thank you,
Scott
PS. I have two more tips for those of you wishing to follow these great instructions
1. Polish the top of the sear (where it engages with the hammer hook) before you begin to cut the angle.
2. Mark the top of the sear with a sharpie black marker so that as you polish the angle you can visually monitor the material that is being removed (it goes from black
to shiny.)
Last edited by superx1; 11-15-2010 at 11:22 PM.
11-16-2010, 01:08 AM
Eric0424
#14
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
TPC Rating:
Dec 2009
I'm right here
2,281
0% (0)
Thanks, superx1 .....and good tips too. I've started using a cheap 10X loupe/jewelers eye-piece to see what's happening with the sears & hammers, but I used my cold
bluing chemicals in place of the sharpie. Both will get the job done.
4/2/2015 8:47 PM
11 of 11
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357575
05-28-2011, 04:08 PM
#15
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
TPC Rating:
Team RFC Since:
Team RFC To:
jerryg22 is
online now
Team RFC
May 2010
Broward County, FL
1,021
95% (31)
Jan 2011
Dec 2017
Thanks Eric!! I just finished working on my new to me 7000. The action differs a bit from the 60 but it was a piece of cake.
Of course I forgot to paper clip the hammer spring, so as long as it was out I dremeled one and a half coils off of it before assembly.
Polished all the parts and put a dab of copper anti-seize on all applicable areas.
Did the sear work as you described, and slightly bent the sear spring to relieve some pressure as it rests on the magazine disconnector pin.
Did the floppy spring trigger as well as a JB weld. The JB Weld was surprising as I had to sand off almost as much as I had added. It really doesn't take much JB Weld to
eliminate the creep. This required at least five steps of disassembly, assembly and test.
I just took a water in the jug, fishing line trigger pull test. I finally settled on an amount of water in the jug that would repeat a dry fire without jerking six times. To
my amazement when I weighed the jug it weighed 1 pound and seven ounces!!!!!! (Checked for bump fire and it's perfect)
Can't wait for the Evolution stock and Mueller 8X25X44 that are on their way to me.
Page 1 of 5 1 2 3 4
5 >
not
not
not
not
BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Rules
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:45 PM.
Privacy Policy
Powered by vBulletin
Copyright 2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2000-2013 RimfireCentral.com
(855) 896-2464
(317) 296-7914
x
4/2/2015 8:47 PM