Seamless baby wrap with collar and raglan sleeves

by suzie fry - www.soozs.blogspot.com

This garment is knitted in a single piece from
the neck edge. If you havent knitted neck
down before you may find this a bit
confusing but rest assured if you follow the
pattern it is very easy, and with no sewing it
all happens very quickly!
Double increases along the raglan shoulder
lines create the sleeve stitches, which are
then placed onto a holder until the body is
finished and then picked up and knitted in a
tube to form the sleeve. The resulting
garment has no bulky seams, which makes it
light and comfortable to wear.
I knitted the 0-6 month size sample pictured
to the above right using 157gms, or 487
metres of Pear Tree 4 ply (fingering) weight
merino wool held double. The model is a
very large 7 month old and aside from the
sleeve length, it fits very well. After knitting this sample I slightly increased the sleeve length.
I knitted the 12-24 month size pictured below right using two strands of cleckheaton 5 ply
(sport) weight machine washable wool held double and used a tiny fraction over 300gms, or
930 metres. It is a perfect fit on my smaller than average 27 month old son. I particularly like
this version with the alternate colour on the
sleeves and collar.
At the end of the pattern I give some notes on
altering the pattern for different sizes and yarn
weights.
Size
0-6 (6-12,12-24) months
Finished garment measures
Chest width (not circumference) 26 (30, 34)
cm
Length with collar turned 29 (35, 39) cm
Sleeve length from neck edge 24(31, 37)
cm
Raglan seam length neck to underarm 15(18, 20) cm
Gauge
17 stitches and 24 rows to 10cm in stocking stitch

Materials

620 meters/200gms (930m/300gms, 1085m/350gms) 4ply yarn, or 310 (465, 545)

metres of 10ply (aran/worsted) weight.
5.5mm (or size needed to obtain gauge) 100cm circular needle (or straights for the body
plus DPNS for the sleeves)
4 stitch markers
Darning needle
Scrap yarn

Abbreviations
K Knit
P Purl
KFB Knit into the front and back loop of
the stitch this is an increase stitch
PM Place marker
K2Tog Knit 2 stitches together this is a
decrease stitch
SSK Slip the next two stitches knit wise
and then knit them together this is a
decrease stitch
Instructions
Cast on 48 (54, 60) stitches.
Knit 4 (6, 6) rows of garter stitch (knit every
row). This will form the collar.
Knit 4 (6, 6) rows of stocking stitch, starting
with a knit row (knit, purl, knit, purl). This will
form the collar stand.
The next row is the first increase row and
divides the stitches between the fronts,
sleeves and back. Slip all markers in place
on subsequent rows.
Next row
K1, KFB, K8 (9, 10), KFB [right front], PM,
KFB, K2 (3, 4), KFB [right sleeve], PM,
KFB, K16 (18, 20), KFB [back], PM,
KFB, K2 (3, 4), KFB, [left sleeve] PM,
KFB, K7 (8, 9), KFB, K2 [left front] 58 (64, 70) stitches.
Next row Purl.
Repeat these two rows by making KFB increases on all knit rows on

the second stitch for the right front neck edge,

immediately before and after each stitch marker and
on the third last stitch to make the left front neck edge

increasing a total of 10 stitches each knit row, and purling alternate rows. Follow this pattern
11 (14, 16) more times until you have 168 (204, 230) stitches. Finish with a purl row.
Next Row K1, KFB, K33 (40, 45), remove marker and slip 28 (35, 40) sleeve stitches onto
scrap yarn, remove marker and cast on 4 stitches, K42 (50, 56), remove marker, place 28
(35, 40) sleeve stitches on scrap yarn, remove marker and cast on 4 stitches, K32 (40, 44),
KFB, K2. This creates 178 (215, 240) stitches 28 (35, 40) for each sleeve and 122 (145,
160) for the body.
Continue in stocking stitch with increases at neck edge on each knit row for 10 more rows
until you have 132 (155, 170) stitches and then straight until the back measures 28 (34, 38)
cm from cast on edge, or longer if you prefer a tunic length. Knit 6 rows of garter stitch and
cast off.
Picking up the sleeves
To make the sleeves you will use the stitches
you reserved on the scrap yarn, plus eight
more you will pick up. Using your long
circular or DPNS and starting in the middle of
the four stitch cast on you made in the body
to form the underarm pick up two of the cast
on stitches. Next pick up two stitches from
the space between the cast on stitches and
the stitches reserved on the scrap yarn.
Place all the reserved stitches on the needle
and then pick up four more stitches to bring
you back to your starting point. Dont be
concerned if there is a bit of a gap where the sleeve joins the underarm you can darn this
in later with the tail of your joined yarn.
You now have 36 (43, 48) stitches on your needles. Place a marker to indicate the point of
the round where you started (in the middle of the underarm) and join the yarn. If using a
long circular, divide stitches in half and slide each set of stitches along the cable to allow
easy knitting (the magic loop method is described here http://www.knittingand.com/wiki/Magic_Loop). If you are using DPNS, divide your stitches between your
needles.
Knit 8 regular rounds.
Decrease round - K1, K2Tog, knit to last 3 stitches, SSK, K1.
Continue this decrease pattern by knitting 4 (5, 5) regular rounds and 1 decrease round 4
(5, 6) more times for a total of 5 (6, 7) times until you have 26 (31, 34) stitches.
Knit 2 (3, 4) rounds.
Starting with a purl round, knit 4 (6, 6) rounds of garter stitch.
Cast off loosely.

Finishing
Weave in ends. If required, darn an extra stitch
at underarm joins to close any gaps.
The wrap can be held closed in a number of
ways. For the smaller size I sewed large size
snaps on the inner and outer flaps because this
makes dressing a slippery baby easier.
On the larger size I use snap fastening tape,
which is also easy to do up, but holds a bit
steadier on more action oriented ages. I used
tape on the inside edge for added stability.
But you can also use ties which are very
practical too. To make each tie cast on
three stitches. Knit four rows of stocking
stitch and then join the stitches to make icord. Make each tie 20-25cm long and join
to wrap with flat tab ends.
You can also add a button closure by
adding a button hole to the front side just
below the increase line. Knit to the last five
stitches of the row (for the left side). Slip
the next stitch knitwise, bring the yarn to
the front, slip another stitch knitwise and
pass the first slipped stitch over the second (repeat for a larger hole). Pass the last stitch
back from the right needle to the left, turn the work and bring the yarn to the front. Cast on
two stitches (plus one extra for any extra stitches you slipped if you made a bigger hole) and
turn your work again. Slip the first stitch knitwise and pass the last cast on stitch over it.
Return the slipped stitch back to the left needle and knit remaining stitches.
Tips for altering size and shape
The sizing on this pattern is generous, so without altering any aspect of the pattern, it could
be knitted at a tighter DK gauge and still be a useful garment. If in doubt knit a size larger
than required (babies always grow, and usually look good in knitwear on the larger side). If
you do this follow the stitch counts for a larger size, but select the appropriate length
measurement.
Simple modifications are also easily made with the top down construction. Any number of
stitches can be added or subtracted from the neck edge cast on to make the neck opening a
different size just ensure the stitches are proportionally distributed between fronts, sleeves
and back. The number of raglan increases made between the collar stand and when the
stitches are slipped off for the sleeves determines the size of the body and sleeves. You can
do less or more than the pattern to change the size.
Less decreases along the sleeves will give wider sleeve cuffs. If you want to alter the length
of the sleeves change the number of rounds done before commencing decreases - less
rounds will shorten the sleeves, more will make the sleeves longer. If you want a lot of extra

length decrease the rate of stitch decreases.

To significantly upsize the pattern either to make a larger size or to accommodate a much
smaller gauge you need to add in more cast on stitches and more raglan increases, as
well as increase body and sleeve length. You can work this out by calculating a schematic
from your gauge count. Determine your desired measurement and divide by gauge to work
out how many stitches you need at each point (cast on, raglan, sleeve and body width and
sleeve length). Body length can be decided as you go.
If making for larger children remember that childrens rate of growth slows as they age, and
they tend to get taller and longer in the arms without increasing around the middle or neck
as much. I tried the 12-24 month size on my six year old daughter and while the body and
sleeve length were clearly inadequate, the body and neck width required very little
alteration. In other words, make most of your sizing changes by increasing the raglan length
a little, slowing the rate of sleeve decrease and adding more rows before decreasing, and
by lengthening the body.

I would appreciate your comments about the pattern any errors you find, different yarns
used, sizing and fit of finished garments, modifications made. You can contact me at
soozs.com@gmail.com