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DIY 4G LTE Yagi Antenna in 10 Steps for $10

DIY 4G LTE Yagi Antenna in 10 Steps for $10

by Damon Chandler

Datasheet | Parts | Steps | Testing | Notes

Copyright 2012, Damon Chandler and

EnCoded Communications Group
Last Updated: September 1, 2012

Introduction
This article demonstrates how to build a 14-element Yagi antenna for Verizon 4G LTE (or for 3G) in 10 steps for $10.
Background
Many users in smaller towns and rural locations rely on cellular service as their only source of broadband internet. Unfortunately, being in a
rural location often also means being quite far from the nearest cell tower and/or in a weaker signal area due to terrain, trees, or other
obstructions. In these situations, an external antenna designed specifically for your cell carrier's frequencies can often make the difference
between having a slow and unreliable connection and having a consistently fast connection.
The Yagi-Uda antenna--often just called a "Yagi"--is a popular
antenna due to its gain, directionality, and relatively
lightweight design (see the figure to the right). Unlike the
compact internal antenna on a USB modem or cell phone, a
Yagi's driven element is large enough to be fully sensitive to
the frequencies of interest. But, unlike an omnidirectional
antenna or rabbit ears, a Yagi's passive elements can "focus"
the signal from a particular direction and reject signals from
other directions, thus increasing its directional gain. Yet,
unlike other directional antennas (e.g., a parabolic grid), a
Yagi usually weighs less than a few pounds.
There are many online resources that describe how to create
homemade Yagis for VHF, UHF, and WiFi, and for Australia's 3G/NextG networks (see the Acknowledgements section). A particularly useful
article by Jim Klitzing (W6PQL), published in 2006 in the QST journal, provides very detailed instructions on how to build a UHF Yagi
antenna. Inspired by these references, I decided to build my own Yagi antenna for the Verizon 4G LTE bands.
This tutorial
Here, I document the process required to build a 4G LTE Yagi antenna using the construction techniques described in W6PQL's article. His
techniques are simple and achievable with relatively common hand tools. I have actually built three antennas based on his techniques, the
first two using a PVC boom, and the latest--the one described here (and pictured at the top of this page)--using a metal boom. This tutorial
is essentially a spinoff of W6PQL's article for 4G LTE rather than for general UHF. My primary goals were twofold:
1. Keep costs at a bare minimum while still yielding an effective and relatively rugged antenna.
2. Utilize parts that are readily available (e.g., from a local hardware or electronics store).
The result came to approximately $10 in parts, 10 steps to construct, and an afternoon of your time (approximately 4-5 hours). This is not
bad at all considering that the antenna has a theoretical gain of 13.5 dBd and 15.7 dBi. The same construction techniques can be used to
create a 3G antenna; I've provided datasheets for both 4G LTE and 3G versions.

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It's important to note that the information provided here is not meant to serve as a definitive reference on how to build an optimal Yagi
antenna. Remember, I've built only three such antennas. Some sacrifices were made in the interest of cost and simplicity. Don't hesitate to
experiment with alternative parts or construction techniques based on your own judgment--it's certainly possible to improve the design
(e.g., by using larger-diameter elements), and I welcome feedback on such improvements. Note that if you use different materials, you'll
most likely need to generate a different datasheet; see the section on The Design Software.
Organization of this tutorial
The remainder of this article is organized into the following sections:
1. The Design Software (the software used to design the antenna)
2. Parts for the Antenna (the required parts)
3. Building the Yagi (the construction steps)
4. Quick Testing of the Yagi (preliminary testing results)
5. Notes on Mounting, Cables, and Coax Connectors (brief tips on mounting and connecting the antenna)
6. Acknowledgements (and links to useful sites)
7. User Comments (provide feedback here)

The Design Software

The design software
As described in W6PQL's article, I used VK5DJ's Yagi Calculator
software to design the Yagi. The software provides a datasheet with
the required element lengths and positions, and further specs for the
coax connection (balun).
If you plan to follow this tutorial as-is, using the same parts
described here, click the link below to download my datasheet for
either 4G LTE or 3G (coax balun info included):
Datasheet for Verizon 4G LTE antenna
(787 MHz design frequency; 18 mm metal boom, 2.1 mm
element diameter, elements through boom)
Datasheet for Verizon 3G antenna
(894 MHz design frequency; 18 mm metal boom, 2.1 mm
element diameter, elements through boom)
For 4G LTE, Verizon currently uses 747-787 MHz (with a 20 Mhz gap in the middle of this range). For 3G, Verizon uses either 824-894 MHz or
1850-1990 MHz (again, with gaps in the middles). I did not provide a datasheet for the 1850-1990 MHz range because the dimensions of the
resulting antenna are much smaller. It's certainly possible to create a Yagi for this range; just use the software to create your own datasheet
and keep in mind that the boom length can decrease from 5 ft to approximately 2 ft.
The design frequency
Both of the above datasheets have been designed for the top ends of their respective frequency ranges--787 MHz for 4G LTE, 894 MHz for 3G.
I chose the maximum frequency as the design frequency because a Yagi's sensitivity supposedly drops very rapidly for frequencies above the
design frequency, but drops more slowly for frequencies below the design frequency. Thus, if your elements' lengths are a bit off during
construction, you should still have a usable antenna. Although I have not tried it, you might want to experiment with a design frequency
somewhere in the middle of each of the above ranges to achieve better performance (e.g., using 767 MHz for 4G LTE).
If you need to make a change
The above datasheets assume that the passive elements make metal-to-metal contact with the boom. Because such metal-to-metal contact
tends to shift the antenna's sensitivity to a higher frequency range, the Yagi Calculator software has compensated for this effect by slightly
lengthening the elements. The amount of compensation depends on the boom's diameter (and possibly also the elements' diameter). For this
reason, the above datasheets are specific to the parts described here.
If you plan to use a different design frequency, a boom with a different diameter, or elements with a different diameter, then you'll need to
use the software to create your own datasheet. Similarly, if you plan to use a non-metallic boom, or you plan to mount your elements
insulated from the boom, then you'll also need to use the software to create your own datasheet. The software is free and very easy to use
(click the image above to download it).

Parts for the Antenna (Total Parts Cost = $10 USD)

Four parts are needed for the antenna:
1/2" x 10 ft Electrical Metallic Tube (EMT) Conduit (approx. $2)

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Rigid Metal Rods (approx. $2-3)

Plastic Standoff (approx. $0.50)
Short Length of Flexible Coax Cable (approx. $4-5)

1/2" x 10 ft Electrical Metallic Tube (EMT) Conduit (approx. $2) [the link to the left directs to this item at Lowes.com]
We'll use EMT conduit for the antenna's boom.
We need only 5 ft of EMT conduit for a single Yagi antenna, but
you'll pay about the same price for a 5 ft length vs. a 10 ft
length. Plus, you can save the other 5 ft for another Yagi.
Note that if you can't fit the 10-ft EMT into your car, just
borrow a hacksaw from the Tools section of Lowes/Home Depot
and cut it yourself in the store. Or, ask an employee to cut it
for you.
EMT conduit is a fraction of the cost of aluminum or copper.
Similar to aluminum, it's lightweight and more corrosionresistant than copper. But, unlike aluminum, you can solder
EMT as long as you sand-off the finish at the intended soldering
point. (EMT does not accept solder as readily as copper, so it's
still a bit of a challenge; be sure to use plenty of flux.)

Rigid metal rods (12 gauge or thicker) (approx. $2-3) [the link to the left directs to a steel tomato cage at Lowes.com]
We'll need some form of thick, rigid metal for the antenna's
elements (reflector, driven element, and directors).
There are many options for this metal, spanning a wide range of
prices. Two of the cheapest options that I've found are a
galvanized steel tomato cage or metal coat hangers.
You can buy a galvanized steel tomato cage from your local
hardware/garden store for $2-3. This metal is well-suited for
outdoor use. Alternatively, 7-8 metal coat hangers will suffice. I
purchased an 8-pack from Walgreens for about $2.50 (shown on
the right). These particular hangers have a plastic coating,
which can easily be stripped off.
Keep in mind that you really just need metal rods or tubes that
can be soldered. If you can't find coat hangers or a tomato
cage, you can use an old grill, thick copper wire (6-12 AWG),
welding rods, or some form of metal tubing, perhaps from an
old TV antenna. In fact, using larger-diameter metal is
supposed to increase the Yagi's bandwidth, which may lead to
better results.
The total length of metal that you'll need depends on the
number of elements you intend to put on the Yagi. For the
14-element Yagi shown in this tutorial, we need about 9 ft (2.7
m) of metal.

Plastic Standoff (approx. $0.50) [the link to the left directs to a PVC T-fitting at Lowes.com]

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We'll need one plastic standoff to mount the Yagi's driven

element to the EMT conduit (boom).
The driven element is the only element that's physically
connected to the coax (and thus to the modem). The driven
element needs to be electrically isolated from the boom; all
other elements will be soldered to the boom.
Find something which you can repurpose for use as the standoff,
preferably something durable. A plastic bottle cap, for
example, will work; but, it might not last long in the sun. A 1/2"
PVC T-fitting, an electric fence insulator, or even a 1/2" hose
repair coupling are better choices if you plan to mount your
antenna outdoors.
Here, I will demonstrate the use of a 1/2" PVC T-fitting as the
plastic standoff.

Short Length of Flexible Coax Cable (approx. $4-5) [the link to the left directs to an RG58 cable at WeConnex.com]
We'll need about 1.5 ft of flexible coax cable to create the
balun and pigtail connection for the antenna.
For this short length of coax, I suggest choosing the type of coax
with the same impedance as your longer coax run (the long run
of coax that connects the modem to the antenna).
If you're using 50-Ohm coax such as LMR400, then use
RG58 for the antenna's balun/pigtail.
If you're using 75-Ohm coax such as RG6, then use RG59
or RG6 for the antenna's balun/pigtail.
The previously described datasheets contain information
regarding the baluns for RG58, RG59, and RG6.
RG58 is 50-Ohm coax; RG59 and RG6 are 75-Ohm coax. 50-Ohm
coax is theoretically matched to the impedance of the antenna
and the modem. But, in practice, the impedance of the antenna
varies within the 4G LTE and 3G frequency ranges, so there's no
way to be perfectly impedance-matched across the entire band
of interest.
The antenna's balun/pigtail is very easy to construct. There's no
harm in trying RG59 or RG6 if you already have some on hand.
You can always replace it later with the RG58 version. (Click
here for more notes on this topic.)
Here, I will demonstrate using RG59 because I had a remnant
piece available (with a pre-attached F-type connector).

Building the Yagi

The following 10 steps will be used to build the antenna:
Making the boom
Step 1: Cut the EMT conduit in half
Step 2: Draw guide lines along the length of the boom
Step 3: Mark the positions of the elements
Step 4: Drill the holes for the reflector and directors
Making the elements
Step 5: Measure and cut the reflector and directors
Step 6: Measure and cut the driven element
Mounting the elements to the boom
Step 7: Mount the directors to the boom
Step 8: Mount the folded dipole to the boom
Step 9: Mount the reflector to the boom
Making and mounting the coax connection

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Step 10: Create and attach the balun and coax pigtail

The following tools and supplies are needed to construct the antenna:
Hammer
Drill with 3/32" bit (or anything large enough to accommodate the elements)
Hacksaw
Metal file and coarse sandpaper
Center punch (or nail punch, or awl, or strong nail/screw)
Wire strippers
4-ft or longer straight edge (ruler or level or other)
Ruler with cm scale and mm tick marks
Soldering iron (40-80 W preferred); plus solder and flux
Permanent markers (one fine-tip marker and one medium-tip marker)
Epoxy and screws
If you don't have a particular tool, it's certainly possible to use a substitute. A vise is also highly recommended.

Step 1: Cut the EMT conduit in half

Using a hacksaw, cut the 10-ft EMT conduit into two 5-ft
sections. You'll only need one of the halves, so set the other
half aside for another project.

It helps to use a vise to hold the conduit while cutting (see

Figure 1). If you don't have a vise, you can use clamps or
your foot.
After you've cut the conduit, briefly sand or file the cut ends
to remove any of shards of metal.
Again, one of the 5-ft sections of conduit will serve as the
antenna's boom.

Figure 1: Cut the 10-ft EMT conduit into two 5-ft sections.

Step 2: Draw guide lines along the length of the boom

The next step is to draw two lines along the length of the
boom, one line on the top, and one line on the bottom.
These lines will serve as guides to help ensure that the
elements are aligned (see Figure 2).

To draw the top line, place your straight edge along the
length of the boom, clamp the boom to the straight edge (or
step on the boom to prevent movement), and then follow the
straight edge with your marker, drawing a line on the boom.
To determine the location of the bottom line, use your ruler
to measure 18 mm down from the top line (the diameter of
1/2" EMT conduit is 18 mm). Mark this location. Then, flip the
boom over and use the straight edge and marker to draw the
bottom line--starting at your mark--in the same fashion used
for the top line.

Figure 2: Draw top and bottom guidelines along the length of the boom.

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Step 3: Mark the positions of the elements

The next step is to mark the position of each element on
the boom.
Using your ruler and marker, measure along one of the guide
lines and mark the positions of the elements according to the
Yagi Calculator datasheet. Repeat this process for the other
guide line. Thus, you should have marks for the elements on
both sides of the boom (i.e., along both guide lines).
Note: The idea is to have marks...
Figure 3 shows a screenshot of the datasheet for 4G LTE with
the element positions highlighted in yellow.
The reflector is to be located 30 mm from the
beginning of the boom.
The radiator (driven element) is to be spaced 76 mm
from the reflector, which is 106 mm from the
beginning of the boom.
For the directors, the "Spaced" column indicates the
spacing from the previous element. The "Boom
position" column indicates the position relative to the
beginning of the boom.
Figure 4 shows an illustration of the relative position
("Spaced") and absolute positions ("Boom position") of the
first four elements.

Figure 3: Screenshot of 4G LTE Yagi datasheet with positions highlighted.

Note: Unless you happen to have a metric ruler...

Figure 5 shows the boom with the marked positions. The "FD"
stands for "folded dipole;" this is the driven element
(radiator).

Figure 4: Diagram of the relative and absolute positions of the first four
elements based on the 4G LTE Yagi datasheet.

Figure 5: Mark the position of each element along the guide lines on both
sides of the boom.

Step 4: Drill the holes for the reflector and directors

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The next step is to drill holes through the boom for the
reflector and directors. (No hole is needed for the driven
element because it won't be mounted through the boom).
To keep the drill-bit from drifting during drilling, use a
center punch to make an indentation at each marked
position (except for the driven element); see Figure 6. If you
don't have a center punch, a nail punch, awl, or even a
strong nail or screw will work. (As you can see in the
background of the left image of Figure 7, I had an actual nail
punch, but I couldn't find it when I needed it; so I resorted to
using a plain nail.)

Figure 6: Make an indentation at each marked position.

Next, drill the holes halfway through from each side of the
boom (see Figure 7, left). If you don't have a drill bit that
matches the size of your elements, it's better to go slightly
smaller, since you want a tight fit during soldering.

Figure 7: Drill the holes halfway through from each side of the boom.

As you drill the opposite-side hole for each element, run the
drill bit briefly though both holes to remove metal shards
(Figure 7, right). If your drill bit is too small, you can rock
the bit in a circular motion to slightly enlarge the hole (but,
don't overdo it--remember, you want a tight fit so that the
elements don't move during soldering).

Step 5: Measure and cut the reflector and directors

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The next step is to measure and cut the reflector and

directors according to the Yagi Calculator datasheet.
Figure 8 shows a screenshot of the datasheet for 4G LTE with
the reflector and director lengths highlighted in yellow.
The reflector is 197.6 mm long (round to 198 mm).
For the directors, the "Length" column indicates the
length of each director (again, you can round these to
the nearest millimeter).
The datasheet states that the elements lengths must be
within one millimeter of the stated lengths.

Use a pair of metal-cutting dikes or a hacksaw to cut your

elements. You can remove bends by gently pounding them
out with a hammer.

Figure 8: Screenshot of 4G LTE Yagi datasheet with lengths highlighted.

Be sure to cut each element a bit long, and then file the
element down to the correct length. This filing also helps
remove jagged edges from the cut ends.
Figure 9 shows one of the elements, stripped, straightened,
and then cut/filed to length. The element shown is Director
1, which has a length of 178 mm. Figure 10 shows the
reflector and all 12 directors cut to length.
After all of the elements are cut to the proper lengths,
mark the midpoint of each element. Also mark half the
boom diameter (9 mm for 1/2" EMT) away from both sides of
the midpoint; see Figure 11. These marks will later serve as
guides when mounting the elements to the boom. The
particular element shown in Figure 11 is the reflector, which
has a length of 198 mm, a mark at the midpoint of 99 mm,
and flanking marks at 90 mm and 108 mm.

Figure 9: Cut each element a bit long, and then file it down to the correct
length.

Note: It's wise to label the elements...

Figure 10: All 12 elements cut to length and organized.

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Figure 11: Mark the midpoint and two 9-mm-away-from-midpoint points.

Step 6: Measure and cut the driven element

Now it's time to tackle the folded dipole that will be used
as the driven element.
The driven element is arguably the most crucial piece of the
entire antenna. It's the only element that's directly
connected to the coax feed; all other elements serve to
focus the signal onto the driven element. The driven
element's length will affect the antenna's frequency tuning,
and its shape and placement will affect the antenna's
impedance.
The Yagi Calculator datasheet lists the specs of the folded
dipole, a screenshot of which is shown in Figure 12 (for 4G
LTE) with the most important parts highlighted. As stated in
the datasheet, the distances should be measured from the
insides of the bends (inner edge on one side to inner edge on
the other side).

Figure 12: Screenshot of 4G LTE Yagi datasheet with most important

folded dipole dimensions highlighted.

For the 3G version of the antenna, the lengths will be shorter

because the design frequency is higher--refer to the actual
datasheet PDF.
To create the folded dipole, cut a length of your metal
slightly longer than the datasheet's "Total rod length" (403
mm). Then, mark the distances HI and GF (70 mm). Next,
bend the coat hanger around some round object to create
the bends (e.g., a can, bottle, jar, etc.). Figure 13 illustrates
the basic structure for which you should aim.

Figure 13: Illustration of folded dipole shape and important dimensions.

Note: Unless you have specialized bending tools...

Figure 14 shows the resulting folded dipole, which I created
by bending the coat hanger around the spindle of my vise. It's
not perfect shape-wise, but it's extremely close to 183 mm
length-wise. Also, note that I used a brass-looking coat
hanger for this folded dipole only because I already had a
spare cut to a total length of 410 mm. You can use the same
metal as used for the other elements.

Figure 14: Actual folded dipole created from a coat hanger.

Note: The bend diameter and gap...

Step 7: Mount the directors to the boom

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Now that all of the elements have been created, the next
step is to mount only the directors to the boom. (The
reflector and driven element will be mounted later.)

Figure 15: Sand around each hole down to the bare metal to ensure that
the solder will bond.

Because we'll be soldering the directors to the boom, we

need to prep the surfaces to ensure that they accept the
solder. To do this, sand around each hole on the boom (see
Figure 15).

Figure 16: Place each element through its hole, and ensure that it's
centered across the boom by using the 9-mm-away-from-midpoint marks
drawn previously in Step 5.

Now, for each director:

1. Place the element through its hole in the boom.
2. Ensure that the element is centered by using the
9-mm-away-from-midpoint marks drawn previously in
Step 5 (see Figure 16). You can also measure the
amount by which the element protrudes from each
side of the boom. It's centered when these protrusion
amounts are equal.
3. Apply a generous amount of flux around the joints.
4. Solder the element to the boom. To do this, first touch
the iron to the joint, wait several seconds for the joint
to heat-up, and then feed the solder onto the joint.
Warning: The elements will get hot...
Figure 17 shows a close-up of one of the solder joints. My
soldering job in Figure 17 is poor. There is way more solder
than is needed. However, I had a weak 25 W soldering iron
that would not stay hot for more than a few seconds after
contact with the boom/elements. I had to let the iron reheat
for 15-30 seconds after each application, and thus the messy
soldering job. It helps to have a more powerful iron or a
propane torch.

Figure 17: Closeup of solder joints (they're not perfect, but they're quite
solid).

After you've soldered all of the directors, sight down the

boom to check that the directors are aligned (see Figure 18).
Bend the directors as needed to correct for inevitable
misalignments.

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Figure 18: Sight down the boom to ensure alignment of the elements;
bend the elements as needed to correct.

Step 8: Mount the folded dipole to the boom

The next step is to mount the folded dipole to the boom.
The folded dipole needs to be insulated from the boom. This
means no metal-to-metal contact and a vertical separation
of at least half a boom diameter away from the boom (as a
rule of thumb). Thus, to mount the folded dipole, we need
some form of insulated standoff.
Figure 19 illustrates how the folded dipole will be positioned
around the boom. Because our folded-dipole's bend diameter
is 37 mm, and because the boom diameter is 18 mm, the
required standoff height is 9.5 mm. A slight deviation from
this height is OK (e.g., 10-11 mm instead of 9.5 mm); it will
simply result in the folded dipole not being perfectly
centered. I have done this in the past with no measurable
effect on performance.

Figure 19: Illustration of the general idea behind using a plastic standoff.

To use the PVC T-fitting as the standoff, do the following:

1. Slide the T-fitting onto the boom, measure 9.5 mm up
from the top of the boom, and then mark and drill a
hole from each side (see Figure 20).
2. Trim the ends of the "T" so that the fitting can slide
into place without hitting the first driven element.
(You really only need to trim one end of the "T"--the
end that will face toward the first director.)
3. Slide the folded dipole through the drilled hole as
shown in Figure 21 (you may need to temporarily
unfold the dipole to get it around the curves).

Figure 20: Prepare the PVC T-fitting by trimming the ends and drilling
two opposite-side holes through which the folded dipole will fit.

4. Drill two holes for mounting screws, and then mount

the fitting + folded dipole onto the boom using these
two screws (see Figure 22). Ensure that the folded
dipole lines up with your previous position mark for
the driven element (you may need to rotate the
T-fitting to see this mark).
5. Bend the folded dipole as needed to be as straight as
possible, and then apply epoxy to the hole through
which the folded dipole goes through the fitting (see
Figure 22).
As you can imagine, there are numerous way to secure the

Figure 21: Slip the folded dipole through the holes (you might need to
undo some bends temporarily).

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folded dipole to the boom in an insulated fashion.

Experiment on your own to determine the technique that you
find best, given the parts that you have available.
A better alternative to the T-fitting would be to use some
form of plastic box such as a plastic conduit body. This way,
you can potentially enclose your coax connections inside the
box.

Figure 22: Attach the assembly to the boom.

Step 9: Mount the reflector to the boom

The next step is to mount the reflector to the boom.
Following the same procedure described in Step 7, mount
and solder the reflector to the boom. Figure 23 shows the
result. (Again, the soldering job is not great.)
After mounting the reflector, sight down the boom to ensure
it's aligned with the directors, and bend as needed to
maximize alignment.
Note: The only reason the reflector...

Figure 23: Solder the reflector to the boom.

Step 10: Create and attach the balun and coax connection
The final step is to create and attach the balun and coax
pigtail to the antenna.
The Yagi Calculator software creates a picture of the balun
and pigtail, which is shown in Figure 24 for RG59 coax with
polyethylene insulation. Here, I will demonstrate using RG59
because I had a remnant piece with a pre-attached F-type
connector.

Figure 24: Diagram of balun and coax pigtail for 4G LTE Yagi with
polyethylene-insulated RG59.

Note: You can choose the coax type...

To construct the balun and coax pigtail, first cut and strip
the pieces as shown in Figure 25. The top piece will be used
to create the balun, and the lower piece will be used for the
pigtail.

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Note: The length of the balun's loop...

Next, as shown in Figure 26, simply solder the connections to
match Figure 24's diagram. If you're using RG6, you won't be
able to solder the outer braid because it's most likely made
of aluminum. In this case, just twist the outer braids
together and secure them with a crimp fitting.
Finally, as shown in Figure 27, solder the center conductors
of the balun to the folded dipole and use tie-wraps to secure
the coax. If you plan to mount the antenna outdoors, be sure
to cover the stripped portions of the coax with a thick
coating of epoxy to prevent water ingress.

Figure 25: Cut and strip the pieces for the balun (top) and coax pigtail
(bottom).

The construction of the antenna is now complete! Figure

28 shows a photo of the completed antenna.

Figure 26: Solder the connections to match the diagram.

Figure 27: Attach the balun and pigtail to the folded dipole.

Figure 28: Completed antenna.

Quick Testing of the Yagi

Due to weather constraints (and an intimidating nest of hornets), I have not yet had a chance to test this particular antenna on my roof; I've
tested the antenna only in my attic. However, I have tested a 10-element version of this antenna made with a PVC boom, and it yielded
impressive speed boosts placed on a mast on my roof. I plan to provide more thorough test results in the near future.
For now, here are some quick test results of the antenna in my attic,
on a tripod, and using the UML290 modem.
Some brief details of the testing:

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Modem: Pantech UML290 connected directly to laptop (.230

firmware). The antenna was plugged into the modem's normal
antenna port, and not the MIMO/diversity port.
Software: Verizon Access Manager version 2.6.3.4. This older
version of VZAM was used because, unlike the later versions, it
displays the RSSI and SINR without going to the diagnostic
screen. However, this older version seems to display fewer bars
for the same RSSI and SINR as compared to the newer versions.
Location: Mid-level in my attic of a one-story home in
Stillwater, OK. I would estimate that my attic is about 15 ft
above the ground, and the tripod adds another 4 ft.
Terrain: In a shallow valley. Many trees around, with leaves,
but the trees are short (20-40 ft is my guess).
Coverage: I'm in an Extended 4G zone according to VZW
coverage maps. But, I'm within a mile of a regular 4G zone. The
LTE tower is 7-8 miles away.
Aiming: I knew the general direction in which to aim based on my other antenna adventures. I pointed this antenna in that same
direction.

Results with no external antenna

RSSI: -90 to -86 dBm.
SINR: -3 to 2 dB.
Speeds: 2-5 Mbps DL, less than 0.3 Mbps UL.

Results with the DIY antenna

RSSI: -77 to -72 dBm.
SINR: 12 to 17 dB.
Speeds: 15-23 Mbps DL, 5-8 Mbps UL.

The results are promising. I expect further performance gains by mounting the antenna higher and outdoors. Again, this older version of
VZAM seems to display fewer bars for the same RSSI and SINR as compared to the newer versions. I always run a speed test to be sure.
During these tests, the antenna was plugged into the modem's normal antenna port (the one near the SIM card), and not the MIMO/diversity
port. 3Gstore.com calls the normal antenna port the "3G port" and the MIMO/diversity port the "4G port." If you plug the antenna into the

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MIMO port, the modem should theoretically use the internal and external antennas in a MIMO configuration. However, this will work only if
your internal antenna has a decent signal to begin with. In my setting, as you can see from the above results with no antenna, the signal
was quite poor to begin with, so plugging the antenna into the MIMO port gave me about the same DL speeds, but it didn't help the UL
speeds.
With that in mind, I have experienced even better results with using two of these DIY antennas in a MIMO configuration (i.e., using both
ports of the VL600 or UML290). I hope to post some MIMO results in the near future.

Notes on Mounting, Cables, and Coax Connectors

There are always hidden costs to every DIY project, and this project is no exception. Here, the culprit is connectors, cables, and mounting
hardware. The topic of mounting this antenna could benefit from its own DIY article. In regards to cables and coax connectors, there are
many good online resources for this topic. Here, I provide some brief notes on these topics.

Notes on mounting
At the present, I have not yet explored ideal mounting options. This topic deserves its own DIY article.
Although EMT conduit is a fairly lightweight, I recommend supporting the antenna from its midpoint or at two equidistant points
away from the midpoint.
One of the advantages of using EMT conduit for the boom is that you can readily find many clamps, elbows, and connectors
designed specifically for EMT at your local hardware store; and, they're cheap. Muffler clamps are also cheap or can possibly be
salvaged locally. You'll have to experiment and be creative if you plan to pursue DIY mounting hardware.
Of course, the quickest and easiest solution is to purchase an antenna mounting kit, e.g., from your local RadioShack. If you don't
already have a mast or other mount on your roof (e.g., for a TV antenna), then you'll need some form of mounting kit to get
started.
If you don't have a metal roof, consider mounting the antenna in your attic. You won't get the best signal possible, but at the same
time, you won't have to worry about rust, lightening, or wind.

Notes on the long run of coax

If you have RG6 already in your walls, or you have a long run of spare RG6 available, then by all means, use it. Yes, there will be
an impedance mismatch. However, in my experience with both the UML290 and VL600 modems, the difference in performance is
inconsequential (I have not tested other modems). I've tried both RG6 and LMR400 at 50 ft lengths, and I've come to the conclusion
that there's more fluctuation due to weather or tower traffic than there is due to the slight impedance mismatch. LMR400 has a bit
lower loss than RG6 (see here), but the cost and labor needed to run a new length of LMR400 is something to consider.
If you have RG59 already in your walls, then I'd suggest replacing it with either RG6 or LMR400. If you don't already have a long run
of spare RG6 available, then go with LMR400. Although I've never tried a long run of RG59, it's reported to have a much greater loss
than the other two types in the LTE frequency range (see here).
If you don't already have cables in your walls, and you don't already have a long run of spare RG6 available, then go with LMR400.
If you have to buy cable, and you have to spend the time to fish it through your walls, then you might as well use LMR400.

Notes on connecting the antenna to the long run of coax

How you connect the antenna to your long run of coax depends on what you used for the antenna's pigtail cable.
If you used RG58 for the antenna's pigtail, then it probably has a BNC male connector. Assuming your LMR400 cable uses N-type
male connectors, search online for a BNC-female to N-female adapter. These are readily available online for around $7 with
shipping. Or, better yet, buy your RG58 with an N-female connector.
If you used RG59 or RG6 for the antenna's pigtail, then you can easily find an F-type barrel connector at your local Walmart, Lowes,
or other store. A 2-pack at Walmart runs for $3.

Notes on connecting the long run of coax to your modem

To attach the other end of the long run of coax to your modem, you will need to purchase a short adapter cable designed for your
particular modem. There's no easy way to avoid this purchase. Both 3Gstore.com and Verizon Wireless sell these adapter cables for
around $10-15, and both of these places ship quickly. Your local Verizon Wireless shop may also have some in stock.
These short adapter cables almost always have an FME male connector to connect to the long run of coax. You will need to find an
FME-female-to-? adapter, where ? depends on your long run of coax.

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If you used LMR400 for your long run of coax, and assuming it uses N-type male connectors, then you will need to search for an
FME-female to N-female adapter. These are readily available online for around $10 with shipping.
If you used RG59 or RG6 for the antenna's pigtail, then you will need to search for an FME-female to F-female adapter.
Maxmost.com sells an an FME-female to F-male adapter here and on eBay here for around $10 shipped from NY. You can then use
an F-type barrel connector to change the gender. Of course, you can get creative and use intermediate adapters; below is what I
used during my tests (I'm actually surprised it works as well as it does).

Acknowledgements
A special thanks to Jim Klitzing (W6PQL) for providing an excellent QST journal article from which much of the material on this page is
based, and thanks to John Drew (VK5DJ) for the Yagi Calculator software. I am also grateful to the following resources for providing much
guidance on antennas and related mobile-broadband topics:
EVDOforums.com and 3Gstore.com
Verizon Wireless forums at DSLReports.com
Jim_in_VA's excellent EVDO Tips site
Homemade 3G/NextG Yagis for all bands site from our friends down under
VHF/UHF Yagi Antenna Design site from Martin E. Meserve (K7MEM)
Jealous Brothers' blog post on the Wilson 4G LTE amp and antennas
Milkwood's blog post on DIY remote area internet

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David Berry University of self taught

Damon. Prepping to build this for our vacation place in the U.P. Of Michigan using an AT&T Unite
Hotspot, Freq. B17. Anybody build one for AT&T 4G LTE yet?
Like Reply Jul 2, 2015 5:41pm

Krystal Mae Suarez Flight Attendant at Philippine Airlines

Hi sir i'm trying to create this with 1800Mhz frequency can you send me a datasheet which include all
calculations,i'm planning the same material to use..thnks in advance.
Like Reply May 4, 2015 9:49am

Pravin Kumar Toranagallu, Karnataka, India

I made one last week but didn't test it till yesterday. I think I am doing something wrong because there
was signal drop instead of an increase. can you help me out a bit
Like Reply Apr 15, 2015 11:59pm

Chris Adams Manager/Personal Trainer at Norton Fitness

i am trying to create one for sprint 4g lte, they run off of 800, 1900,2500MHz can you send me a data
sheet or the information used for the data sheet to calculate it? i will be useing the same materailes
you used and i am looking at the 800MHz
Like Reply Apr 1, 2015 11:26am

Damon Chandler Stillwater, Oklahoma

Hi Chris: Do you know the exact frequency range of Sprint's 800 MHz LTE?
Like Reply Apr 1, 2015 10:57pm

Chris Adams Manager/Personal Trainer at Norton Fitness

Damon Chandler 814-849 MHz
Like Reply Apr 3, 2015 3:46pm

Chris Adams Manager/Personal Trainer at Norton Fitness

i have cage wire and hangers which one would you recommend the cage wire is 3.68 mm
diameter
Like Reply Apr 3, 2015 3:48pm
Show 2 more replies in this thread

Tou Viravongsa Works at Dragon Diner

Hi Damon I just finished building one it was working just fine untill 2 hour later i experirned signal drop
and my signal kept disconnecting could you help me find out what went wrong with my antenna thanks
Like Reply Feb 16, 2015 9:15am

Damon Chandler Stillwater, Oklahoma

Hi Tou: Sorry for the late reply. Were you eventually able to resolve this?
Like Reply Apr 1, 2015 10:56pm

Damon Barber Big Bend Community College

Hi Damon! Im Damon. I work with a Damien, but thats another story.?
Building a Yagi antenna for
the SeaHawks game tomorrow. The signal is about 70mi away, so we shall see! Great tutorial, and
wonderful relation of the directors to the magnefying lenses. BTW I hear there may be another Jason
Bourne Movie on the horizon, and original director.
Like Reply Feb 1, 2015 12:37am

Damon Chandler Stillwater, Oklahoma

Hi Damon! (Wow, I don't think I've ever typed that before.) Thanks for the feedback. Hope
the build worked out for you. Cheers!
Like Reply

1 Feb 15, 2015 8:16pm

Chad Huggins
Finished building one this weekend. Works great! Didn't take any before or after speed data, but can
really tell a difference.

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Copyright 2012, Damon Chandler and EnCoded Communications Group

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