Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas

Measurements

MEASUREMENTS
Knitting Needle Conversion Table
If you get a pattern with a needle size number
different from your needles, dont worry; you can still
make it. For example, instead of seeing a size 6
needle, you might see 4mm or even British size 8
(British non-metric sizes are usually found on vintage
patterns; metric measurements are now standard
in the United Kingdom).
To the right you'll find a table that lists the most
common sizes of knitting needles in US, UK and
metric measurements.

KNITTING NEEDLES
US

Metric

UK

2.00 mm

14

2.25 mm

13

2.75 mm

12

N/A

3.00 mm

11

3.25 mm

10

3.50 mm

N/A

3.75 mm

4.00 mm

4.50 mm

5.00 mm

5.50 mm

10

6.00 mm

10.5

6.50 mm

N/A

7.00 mm

N/A

7.50 mm

11

8.00 mm

13

9.00 mm

00

15

10.0 mm

000

17

11.0 mm

N/A

19

19.0 mm

N/A

50

25.0 mm

N/A

17

Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas

Measurements

18

MEASUREMENTS
Choosing Sock Size
The key measurement for sock sizing is the ankle
circumference. For women, this is usually about 8 inches,
for men about 10 inches. From this key measurement,
subtract 1 inch when knitting for adults and half
an inch when knitting for kids. This assumes that you
are knitting with typical sock yarn, and not stranded
colorwork. If you are knitting with a much thicker
yarn, do not subtract as much from the ankle measurement. If you're knitting in colorwork, which is less
stretchy than single color knitting, you'll need your
sock to be a little bigger.
Get the gauge of the yarn you want to use. This is, of
course, best measured from an actual gauge swatch -even better if done in the round rather than flat since
that's how the sock will be knit. When using a yarn
not originally meant for socks, use needles a size or two
smaller than the ball band calls for. Socks are knitted
at a tighter gauge than other garments, to maximize
wear. You'll find that they feel better on your feet that
way, too.
The number of stitches for the leg and foot circumference is the magic number, X. Once you've got that,
you can create an entire pattern. X is the stitch gauge
(per inch) multiplied by the ankle circumference,
minus 1 inch (for lace or ribbing) or half an inch (for
colorwork), as the case may be.
For example: If your yarn provides a gauge of 30 sts
over 4 inches, divide by 4 to get the number of
stitches to the inch (7.5 sts). Then multiply this number
by the ankle circumference less 1 inch. So for someone
with an 8" ankle: 7.5 x 7=52 sts.

The number of stitches you increase to after the toe

will also be determined somewhat by the ribbing
you want to do. K1 p1 rib requires an even number of
stitches; k2 p2 rib requires that the number of
stitches be divisible by 4.
When you switch to the leg, you can increase a few
stitches to fit the repeat of the pattern you will use on
the leg if this is different than what you've used
on the foot.

Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas

Measurements

19

MEASUREMENTS
Personal Worksheet
Name
Date
Crew Sock Measurements
01 Foot Circumference:

05

{ measure at widest point }

02 Ankle Circumference:
03 Foot Length:

04

04 Sock Length:
02

{ while standing, measure from

heel bottom to desired sock length }

Knee Sock Measurements

01 Foot Circumference:

01

04

02

01

{ measure at widest point }

02 Ankle Circumference:
03 Foot Length:
04 Sock Length:
{ while standing, measure from
heel bottom to desired sock length }

03

CREW SOCK

03

KNEE SOCK

05 Calf Circumference:
{ measure at widest point }

Additional Notes
Tip: If working from a pattern, choose the closest size. If it's
stretchy like lace or ribbing, choose the next smaller size.
If it's not stretchy, like colorwork, choose the next larger size.
Gauge ___ sts per inch x Circumference ___ inches = ___ sts
needed for your size

Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas

Tips & Resources

20

TIPS & RESOURCES

Yarn Over

(YO)

A yarn over creates a small hole in your knitting and

adds one stitch.

TIPS TO REMEMBER
Attention, English-Style Knitters!
All yarn overs are essentially the same:
you are wrapping the yarn around the
needle to create a hole and add a
new stitch. But English knitters must pay
more attention to the position of the
yarn, particularly when the yarn over falls
before or after a purl stitch. Below
youll find some handy tips to assist you:

Bring the yarn between the needles to the front, and

then over the needle again to the back of the work to
begin the next knit stitch.

On the next round, work the yarn over as a regular

knit or purl stitch, as indicated on the chart.

Stitch before is K, stitch after is K.

Bring yarn from back of knitting to front
between needles, then wrap yarn
over the top of the right needle to the
back again.

Stitch before is K, stitch after is P.

Bring yarn to front of work between
needles, then wrap yarn completely
around the right needle to the front of
work again.

Stitch before is P, stitch after is K.

Bring yarn from front to back over the
right needle.

Stitch before is P, stitch after is P.

Bring yarn from front to back over right
needle, then wrap yarn under the right
needle to the front again.

Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas

Tips & Resources

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TIPS & RESOURCES

Circular Knitting
Knitting in the round is quite easy, and many people
love it so much they prefer it to knitting back and
forth. It eliminates the need to sew seams, which can
be an added bonus if you don't like finishing. In
addition, the right side of the knitting is always visible,
making it easier to follow the charts.
Getting started with knitting in the round is the only
new skill you need to learn. You have to get the
stitches onto the needles and join them into a circle
without twisting them.
When working on 2 circular needles, cast on the indicated number of stitches onto one needle. Place the
needle on a flat surface. Divide your stitches evenly
onto two circular needles so the first needle holds
the first half of the round and the second needle holds
the second half of the round.
To knit a round, using the first needle only, knit the
first half of the round. Turn the work around so
the second half of the round is facing you. Switch to the
second needle to knit the second half of the round.
Each set of stitches always stays on the same needle.
Knitting with double-pointed needles (dpns) is not very
different, but it is slightly cumbersome until you get
used to it. In fact, switching needles as you progress
around becomes part of the rhythm of knitting.
When working on dpns, cast on then divide the stitches
evenly onto 3 or 4 needles. Do this by just slipping
the stitches from one needle to another. You can put
your work on 3 needles and knit with the fourth
(my preference and common in the United States) or
you can put your work on 4 needles and knit with
the fifth (common in Europe). If you've never used
double-pointed needles before, try both setups to see
which is most comfortable for you.

Place the needles on a flat surface and make sure all

of the stitches are lined up on the inside of the triangle
or square formed by the needles. With the tail and the
working yarn on the right needle, pick up the needles
carefully, and knit the first couple of stitches. This joins
the knitting into a circle (the needles form a triangle
or square, but the knitting will be a circular tube).

TIPS TO REMEMBER

If you are new to circular knitting,

I suggest you try a small test project on
circular needles first.

A hat is a good choice, because you have

to switch to double pointed needles
(dpns) when you knit the crown. Because
you already have the rest of the hat
knitted, switching from circular to doublepointeds is easy, and you only have to
knit a few rows on the multiple needles.

When you are ready to switch, pick up

one dpn and knit to 1 3 of the stitches.
Pick up another dpn and knit the second
batch. Continue until all of the stitches
have been knitted onto 3 or 4 dpns and
the round is complete.

To start the next round, take another

empty dpn and knit all of the stitches off
of the first needle. The first needle is
now empty. Use this needle to knit the
stitches off of the second needle. Keep
going in this manner.

Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas

Tips & Resources

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TIPS & RESOURCES

Short Rows
A short row is simply a row that has fewer stitches than
the full piece of knitting. Turning in the middle
of the row leaves a small hole. The hole can be eliminated by wrapping the stitch at the turning point.
When instructions tell you to wrap-and-turn:

01 Work to the turning point.

02 Wrap: Slip the next stitch onto the right needle,

then bring the yarn to the front and slip the same
stitch back to the left needle.

03 Turn the work and knit or purl the next stitch.

This wrap-and-turn technique creates a float on

the right side of the work.

When you are ready to reverse the heel shape, you

will work back over the wrapped stitch to avoid
creating a hole.

04 Pick up the horizontal float and put it on the

left needle.

05 Purl or knit the two stitches together. Wrap and

turn the next stitch and turn.

On the next complete row, you will work back over

the wrapped stitch. Knit or purl the wrap together
with the corresponding stitch on the left hand needle
to close up the holes created by the short row shaping.
Sometimes on a sock heel, you will wrap the same
stitch twice when making a short-row heel, and you
will have two wraps to pick up at once.

Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas

Tips & Resources

23

TIPS & RESOURCES

Kitchener Stitch

(a.k.a. Grafting)

Invisible grafting is called Kitchener stitch. For

Kitchener stitch, you must have the same number of
stitches in each group to be joined together. Break off
the working yarn, leaving a strand about 3-4 times
the length of the join. Thread this working strand
into a tapestry needle with a blunt point.

02 Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on

the front knitting needle as if to purl, and again

dont take the stitch off the needle.

03 Back needle: Take the tapestry needle to the back

needle and insert it in the first stitch as if to purl.

Remove that stitch from its needle.

04 Insert the tapestry needle into the next stitch as

if to knit but do not remove it.

05 Front needle: Take the tapestry needle to the front

needle and insert it in the first stitch as if to knit.

Remove that stitch from its needle.

06 Insert the tapestry needle into the next stitch as

01 Setup: Hold the two pieces together on the two

knitting needles, wrong sides together, positioned

so the working strand comes from the right hand
stitch on the front needle. Insert the tapestry
needle into the first stitch on the back needle as
if to knit, but dont take the stitch off its needle.

if to purl but do not remove it.

Repeat steps 02 and 03 until one stitch remains on

each knitting needle. Follow the established pattern
as well as possible with these two stitches. One will
be removed from its needle after the second pass of
the tapestry needle. There is no second stitch before
removing. The final stitch is only entered once with
the tapestry needle. Fasten off.

Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas

Index

24

INDEX
Introduction

Best Foot Forward

Finishing the Socks

> Why knit socks?

> Materials and tools for knitting socks
> Socks made in this lesson
> Features included with this lessons

> Setting up the lace pattern

> Inserting a lifeline
> Fixing mistakes in your knitting
> Set up color patterns
> Correcting stitches in wrong color

> Stretchy bind-off

> Binding off in pattern
> Weaving in the ends
> Blocking socks
> Blocking knee socks

Heel Openings

Bonus: Knitting Socks

on Circular Needles

Materials and Charts

> Sock yarn
> Double pointed needles
> Circular needles
> Other supplies needed
> Colorwork charts
> Lace charts

Anatomy of a Sock
> Parts of a sock
> What you will learn
> Details of the parts of the sock

Making Socks that Fit

> Customizing your socks
> Different socks same size
> Taking measurements for socks
> The dreaded gauge
> Making adjustments to a
colorwork pattern
> Making adjustments to a lace pattern
> Customizing knee socks
> Matching measurements and gauge
> Calf shaping in a knee sock

Knitting the Toes

> Practicing the swirl style toe
> Figure 8 cast on
> Knitting the swirl toe
> Casting on the Bosnian sock
> Starting the Bosnian toe
> Long tail cast on
> Increasing stitches

> Heel opening in lace sock

> Starting the leg of the sock
> Summary of the heel opening
> Heel opening in colorwork sock
> Locating your place in a colorwork pattern
> Continuing the colorwork pattern

Leg Work

Bonus: The Short Row Heel

> Short row overview
> Start knitting the heel
> Reversing the short row heel
> Completing the heel
> Comparing the heels

> Working on the leg

> Increasing for the calf of the sock
> Increase with yarn over method
> Diagonal lace
> Knitting the cuffs

The Afterthought Heel

> The Bosnian toe

> Relaxing a circular needle cable
> Adding the second needle

> Pick up the stitches for the heel

> Shaping the heel
> The Kitchener stitch
> Afterthought heel for the colorwork socks
> Arranging the stitches on the needles

Knit Sock Workshop with Donna Druchunas

Index

25

CREDITS
Instructor:
Donna Druchunas

Producer:
Lynne Ida

Assistant Producer:
Maria Sandhei

Videographer:
Justin Lang

Hair and Makeup:

Danica Jardien

Video Editor:
Ari Feldman

Motion Graphics:
Dave Drage

Copy Editor:
Laurie Pribbeno

Graphic Designer:
Robin H. Ridley

Tech Editor:
Charlotte Quiggle
Copyright

2011, Sympoz Inc.

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