The American Designer and Cutter

TT 520
.S4
Copy
THE AMERICAN
DESIGNER
A
and
CUTTER
Complete, Practical and
Work
Up-to-date
Art
on the
of Designing, Cutting,
Grading, Fitting, Sketching
and
all
Practical Tailoring of
kinds of Womens', Miss-
es',
Juniors',
and
Infants'
Prof.
Sr
Childrens'
Garments
SCHORR
Publishers
AMERICAN PAT! ERN COMPANY

New
York, U.
S.
A.
COPYRIGHT
1915. B Y
SAUL SCHORR
Entered according to act of Congress

of tlie Librarian of
D.
Congress
at
Washington,
C, and any infringements on

Copyright
will
the office
in
be prosecuted
the
to
the fullest extent of

the law.
AUG I6I9I5
)CI,A411102
?l^
Preface
THE
duced me
freely expressed wishes of

to
experiment and practice

This book
Infants'
I
is
devoted
to
the art of designing, cutting, grading,

all
at
fitting,
Garments.
trust the trade will here
hand
in-
kinds of Ladies', Misses', Juniors', Childrens'
acknowledge an honest attempt
of a permanent nature, that no matter
be
correspondents and pupils,
Designing and Garment cutting.
in the art of
sketching and practical tailoring of
and
my numerous
put into book form this compilation of several year's observation,
how
fashion
may
as a guide to the principles of designing
at finding
a work
fluctuate, will conveniently
and garment cutting
to
ensure
artistic results.
I
have given such
should make
details of instruction as
this not
only an
in-
valuable handbook for the student, but a most useful work of reference for the
experience Designer, Cutter and Pattern- Maker

this
who wishes
to
be up
to
date in
important department.
I
am
convinced that any person of average intelligence can become a master
of the art through the
medium
of this publication,
whether
it
be a practical Designer,
Cutter or Pattern-maker, or one totally unaquciinted with the art of designing and
garment
1
cutting.
have spared neither labor nor expense
the highest place in the Designer's

to a
and
in
making
Cutter's library,
world-wide audience believeing that
it
will
and
the
volume worthy
in introducing this
be of great service
in
of
book
helping to
achive success as Designer, Cutter and Pattern-Maker.
THE AUTHOR
Introduction.
THIS
work
is
many
a result of
years'
which no pains have been spared
The
student
will
from complication; no
find
scale,
the
chart
study,
research,
in
to perfect.
system extremely
and
and experiment,
and
simple
any kind
divisions of
is
entirely
free
simple
used,
the ordinary inch measure.
The method by which
the location of
in numerical order in the descriptive text

plicity is systematized,
is
all
points
new
on the
in principle
is
at the
and by
found
its
sim-
time economized and trouble absolutely eliminated.
This important and thoroughly comprehensive work
and
draft are
same time simpler and more
direct
is
new
in principle
than any other system before
the trade.
SAUL SCHORR
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
10
What
What
Know
a Designer Should
a Designer requires to do
to bring
is
ideas
new
into
and
associations
in
order to do this he must be ever on the alert to gather them from the books of bygone
age, ac well as from the passing crowd. These ideas must be not only brought into
must be blended with the prevailing ideas
associationc, but they
new
fashions, or they will
of
not be acceptable.
Of course the Designer needs

must be obeyed;
that
and another. There must be order

running through
it all,
in the
still
gather an
sleeve from an other, a collar from a third
of
and proportion, are the laws

idea for a skirt
one part
between the various
some
style
of beauty.
from one costume, a
and a body part from a fourth
blending the whole into one harmonious whole by

acts as a connecting link
fundamental rules
arrangement, and there must be a proportion
for these three, unity, order
These we may obey, and
certain
must be unity between the design
instance, there
for
are
to realize that there
illustration,
ornamentation
of
which
parts.
Ladies' Tailor Qualifications

The
various.
qualifications necessary to
He must be an
artistic
blend his colors to match the

etc.,
become
a successful
ladies'
taibr
nature with an eye to beauty, so that he
ladies'
complection, and to
are
will
many and
be able to
arrange the seams,
braiding,
so as to poduce the best effect on his customer.
He must have
must be gentlemanly
a knowledge of materials and the latest

in
method
manners and conversation, courteous and
of
decoration.
obliging,
He
and be pos-
sessed with an abudance of tact and ability to please, and treat his customers with respect.
He
all
should be able to take his measure easy and
undue handling
he should abstain
He
of his customer.
hom
all
He
graceful,
and he should avoid
should never stand directly
in front of
her,
and
unnecessary conversation.
should also have a practical and technical knowledge of his trade, and be able
to design garments,
These
and produce them up-to-date and
qualities, assiduously cultivated, will
to
fit
the figure.
enable the aspirant to achieve success.
System
One
er,
of the
most important things
Cutter or Pattarn-Maker
Cutter
should
who
of cutting
IS
The
it
to
and the
a study to be competent in his pattern cutting.
necessarily the
first
and garment
upon which
the system
is
upon
The knowledge
constructed.
It
lines,
the
number
in
practice
so far as the actual working of their system
know^ledge of the principle

is
is
some guidance
not sufficient that
and the
fewr divisional
(if
only the student
is
concerned,
any) upon which
who
it
who
look back with
The
experimented with.
of systems (so-called) that they
tion of this very foolish practice consist in the fact that such students,
It
of a system
produce them.
There are many mature Designers and Cutters now

surprise
are
though
absolutely
explana-
letter-perfect,
devoid
of
If
the principles
upon which
who
a system
based are unreliable, there can be no hope of anything approaching uniform success
if
all
has been found.
has been well grounded in this essential information
can logically estimate the results of his practice.
use, but
and
satisfaction of his patrons,
cutting will require
he should merely understand the location of a few construction

quantities that
a proficient Design-
step towards a practical position.
intelligent student of designing
as to the principles, or basis,
become
the abihty to cut perfect fitting patterns. Every Designer
is
interested in the elevation of his industry
is
make
order
to consider in
the principles are right the casual troubles that arise can be expeditiously
is
in its
and
effectually rectified.
Good
The designer and
line.
As soon
fashion.
cutter of to-day
as this idea
That what
is
is
grasped
it
Lines
must be an
is
artist to fully
grasp what
is
the
good
necessary to change again after the caprices of
considered the perfect line to-day
is
altogether
changed
for
to-morrow.
The eyes must be always open.

It
tume
fits
is
difficult to
follow this movement. Happily
many
well, but the greater part of dressy ladies desire
ladies are content

that the lines
if
their cos-
must be
perfect.
\2
Contrasts
garments marked contrasts often produce the very best
In ladies'
introduction of a
some
velvet or brade in the trimming, or the use of
little
garment a character which pronunces
of button, gives the entire
and
results,
special
the
make
a stylish creation.
it
can be produced by employing compli-
In the selection of the lining excellent effects
lining for a russet coat, or a citrine lining for a blue coat,
mentary colors such as a green
or a primrose lining for a heliotrop cloth, and so on.

Excellent effects are often obtained by the use of white
shades as
1
silver gray,
which goes well with any
think these contrasts are
more
silk
or satin linings, or such
cloth.
succesful than the best of matches.
Fashions
Fashions in fema'e garments change rapidly, and as most ladies'
in
harmony with
keep him
self
up
well posted
In the first place
visits,
the latest style,

in
becomes desirable
it
what
for the designer
being worn. This
is
he should carefully note what
is
and
may be done
being worn
particularly study the exhibits of those firms of note
and
demaed
at
to
be dressed
ladies' tailor to
in
several ways.
the centres of fashion he
who have made
a reputa-
tion for this class of trade.
Then
is
it
very important that he should take in some fashion periodical, which
trate the latest features of fashion in
tailor-made garments; and that
is
illus-
such a way as to render them easy of applicaton to
what
is
most wanted.
Style
As
in
garment designing, so
the trade. Style

acter about
it.
is
has ever played an important part
the artistic finish given to the garment in order that
The run
of the seams, the finish of the edges, together
finish of the lapels, collar
to the
in cutting, style
and
purpose the garment
in
sleeves,
must
intended
for.
all
be appropriate
Fashion
it
may have
char-
with the size and
to the material
plates are the
in
means
used, and
of portraying
the character or style of the garments, and are interpretations of the style of the garments
favored by the various classes of the cmmunity
it
is
our duty to cater
for.
PART ONE
WOMEN'S GARMENTS
14
How
Take Measurement
to
Fig. 1. Place the tape
over the shoulder, continue
of
back neck
the front of shoulder,
under the
measure from the centre
down
arm, and straight across the centre back seam

Place a pin or
make
a light chalk
in a horizontal line.
mark where
the tape
measure
meets the centre back seam horizontally.
Scye Depth Measure: Measure from the centre of
Fig. 2.
back neck
the chalk
to the point
mark has been made.
Back Waist Length Measure: Frcm
Fig. 3.
of
back neck down
the
full
where the pin had been placed or where
to the natural waist length.
the centre
Continue down
to
length as desired.
Bust Measure: Around the body under the arms,
Fig. 4.
over the
fullest part in front
and
well
upon shoulder blades
Fig. 5.
Waist Measure: Around
Fig. 6.
Hip Measure: Around
below the waist
the
body
the
back.
at the waist.
the body about 6 inches
line.
For sleeve length the measure from arm
down under
in
arm
(inside seam).
pit to wrist straight
How
to take
Measurements
15
16
Comparative Proportions for Normal
Womans'
Size
is
the
measurement over the
Bust measure
is
and
breast,
3 inches more than the
Sizes
is
3 inches
less
than the Bust measure.
Size.
Example: Size 36 measures 39 inches Bust. Size 42 measures 45 inches Bust.
Waist measure To
find the
Waist measure add
and
Vz of the size
V4
of
the
less
less
size
2 inches.
Example: Size 36. Half is 18 and

25 inches the Waist measure.
Example: Size 38. Half is 19 and
is
26 '/2 inches
Hips measure
is
Example
Neck Measure
is
9,
half
is
9'/2,
V4
of this
together 28'/2
inches
less
is
2 inches
the Waist measure.
4 inches more than the

Size
together 27
half of this
Size.
36 measures 40 inches
Size
Hips. Size
and 5 inches more
Example: Size 36. One-quarter
of
36
of
42
will
40 measures 44
give the bodice size of neck.
9 and 5 inches more
is
inches Hips.
14 inches the bodice
is
size of neck.
Example: Size 42. One-quarter
is
10'/2
and 5 inches more
more
will
give the
4'/2
inches
is
15'/2
inches the
bodice size of neck.
Ba ck width measure.
'^ Size
and
Scye depth measure is 1 inch

Example: 5 feet 6 inches
less
inches
4'/2
Example Size 36. One quarter

Back width measure.
of
36
than
height.
'/e
is
9 and
Back width measure.
more
is
13'/2
inches the
total height.
One-eighth of 66
8!4
is
less
inch
is
7'^ inches
the Scye depth measure.
Example 5 feet 4 inches height. One-eighth

Scye depth measure.
:
Back waist-length measure
is
of
than
is 2'/2
inches
is
less
inch
is
7 inches the
inch less than V4 total height.
Example: 5 feel 6 inches height. One-quarter

inches the Back waist length.
Example: 5 feet 2 inches height. One-quarter
inches the Back waist-length measure.
Sleeve length
64
more than
the
Back
of
66
is
16'/2
less
inch
is
15'/2
of
62
is
15'/2
less
inch
is
14'/2
measure
or
waist-fength
l'/2
inches
more
V4 total height.
Example: By 15'/2 inches Back waist-length measure is the Sleeve length measure
18 inches.
Example: By 5 feet 6 inches height is the Sleeve length measure 18 inches.
Skirt length in front
is '/2
total height
and 9 inches more
and 10'/2 inches more; back length is Yj

Example: 5 feet 6 inches. Skirt measure
back 44 inches.
side length
is:
front
is
V2
total
height
and 11 inches more.

42 inches, side 43'/2 inches,
total height
Table
of
Proportionate
For
Size
Women
Measurements
17
18
Systematical Outline
MEASUREMENTS
Scye depth
Back
Waist 26 inches.
inches
7'/t
Hips 41 inches.
waist-length 15'/2 inches.
Sleeve 18 inches.
Bust 40 inches.
TO DRAFT
Draw
a straight line as from
from
this
is
Square out from
to D.
the Scye depth Measure, in
A is
the
Back
waist-length measure,
from N is V2 inch on
through N.
in this case 15'/2 inches.
from
is
from
for the waist
for the top line,
and from
from
for the bust line,
line
P
from
6 inches always.
is
Square out from
for the hip line as repre-
is
is
is
24
by drawing a
located
is
the half-way between
B and
E.
E and
F.
from
is
B and
F.
5'/2
E,
F,
and
from
is
is
2!/( inches.
from A is the half of the distance from B

to H, in this case 3 inches.
Square out from

is
from
is
to J.
2 inches.
less
than the
dis-
from S
is
2 inches. Connect
from
is
2 inches.
represented.
Square out from
as represented.
located by drawing a line from
1% inches
G to R.
inch more than the distance

from R is
from L to O on line drawn from R through
T. Cut off the point at R of Ys inch as
as repre-
sented.
I
inches always.
Square out from

from
from
3'/4 inches.
is
tance from
is
line
Square out from S as represented.
inches.
is
and N.
inch.
the half Bust measure and 4
inches more, in this case
from
drawn from L
through Q.
line
sented.
from
as represented.
from
is
inch less than the Scye depth
measure, in this case 6% inches.
case 7'^ inches.
from
M %
from
from
W
A
is
U V.
W as represented
% inch
more than
to K, in this case
3%
the distance
inches.
is
located by a line squared out from E.
is
located by a line squared out from F.
NOTICE
To
all
Diagrams
designed
in this
are seam-allowan-
ces of Ys inch allowed.

In all Diagrams designed in this Systematical Outline is the half Waist
measure with 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. See Waist Suppression on
Page 20.
In all Diagrams des:gned in this Systematical Outline

is the half Hips
measure with V2 inch more than the half Bust measure. (See Hips Development on
Page 20.
19
-4h
^^
20
One Dart
Tight-Fitting with
First lay
up
as described
in
points to your measure

Systematical Outline, then
all
continue as follows:
1 from Z
2 from Y
Vi inch.
is
2'^ inches.
from C to 1 and from 1
through 2 as represented for the fashionable
Draw
is
23 from 15
25 from
3 from C is 2 inches.
4 from D is 1% inches.
5 from 3 is 1 inch less than the distance
from A to K.
6 from 4 is % inch more than the distance
from 3 to 5.
Shape back part as represented.
7 from 5 is % inch.
8 from 6 is 1 inch.
9 from F is % inch.
inch.
10 from 1 is
by drawing a line from 9
1 1 is located
is
and 9.
the half-way between 7 and 10.
13
is
14
is
15
16
17
18
19
through 13.
from 12 is 1 inch.
from 13 is '/a inch.
from 13 is Vz inch.
from 14 is 1 inch.
from 14 is 1 inch.
20 from
11
is
1 '/i
inches.
9-24-25 as represented.
a line from
line
allel
30
is
drawn
par-
with line 1-2.
located by
drawing a
E-26.
line
from 29
parallel with line
31 from 30
32 from 30
33 from 29
is
l'/4
is
2%
is
the
inches.
inches.
same
length as 31 from
29.
Draw a
line
from 24
to
33
for the
run
of the waist line.

is
located by
drawing a
line
from 31
parallel with line E-27.
35 from 34
12
is
inch
more than
the
dis-
tance from 31 to 32.

is
inch.
of front; finish on the

neck gorge, shoulder, armhole and
Shape the center

front the
dart as represented.
is the same length as
37 from 10
25 from
24.
33 from 35
39 from 31
inch.
is
lines
3C from 27
Vi inch.
21 from P is Vi
22 from 21 is
inch for seam.
through 26.
28 from G is 3'/t inches.
29 from 28 is 2 inches on
34
through 10.
26 from 2 is 1% inches.
27 is located by drawing
12
1 1
Shape
lines
waist line.
is
Shape both side-gores as represented.

24 from 10 is % inch, and is from 9 the
same length as 9 to 10.
is
is
l'^ inches.
the same length as
38 from
33.
Finish the bottom as represented.
inch for seam.
WAIST SUPPRESSION.
By applying this System the
For instance, 20 half Bust has 13
Bust has 10 h?lf Waist measure, etc.
half
half
Waist measure is with 7 inches less than the half Bust measure.
Waist measure, 24 half Bust has 17 half Waist measure, 17 half
Very easy to change the drah to your actual Waist measure, by following the instructions as below:
It is
difference between the half actual Waist measure and the half sy-tematical Waist measure is to
be added to by larger actual waist measure and to be taken off by smaller actual waist measure at the front dart.
For instance by drafting a pattern with 40 bust measure the half of the systematical waist measure
will be 13 inches, and if the half of your actual waist measure is 13'/2 inches, than you have to take out at
the front dart 1/2 inch less: in this case take out on the draft from 30 to 32 only 214 inches.
By drafting a pattern of 44 Bust measure the half of the systematical waist measure will be 15
inches, and if the half of your actual waist measure is only 14 '/a inches than you have to take out at the
front dart '72 inch more; in this case take out 3'/^ inches on draft from 30 to 32.
The
HIPS DEVELOPMENT.
By
instance
20
It
measure is with 1/2 inch more than the half Bust measure. For
has 20'/2 half Hips measure, 24 half Bust has 24'/2 half lîps measure, etc.
very easy to change the draft to your actual Hips measure by following the instruction as below:
applying
this
System the
half fdips
half Bust
is
between the half actual Hips measure and the half systematical Hips measure is to be
Hips measure and to be taken off by smaller actual Hips measure on the hip line
equally divided at potnts 8, 19, 18, 25 and 20.
For instance by drafting a pattern of 40 Bust measure the half of the systematical Hips measure will
be 20y2 inches, and if the half of your actual Hips measure is 22 '/2 inches, than you have to allow 2 inches
on the hip line equally divided at points 8, 19, 18, 25 and 20, and vica-verse.
The
added
to
by
difference
larger actual
Tight-Fitting with
One Dart
21
22
Two
Tight-Fitting with
First lay
up
as described
in
all
Systematical Outline,
then
from
Draw
28 from G is 314 inches.

Vi inch.
is
2 '4 inches.
is
from C
lines
through 2 as represented
to
and from
for the fashionable
30
3 from C
is
2 inches.
31
is
1%
5 from 3
is
32
33
inches.
inch less than the distance
to K.
6 from 4
is
from 3
inch
more than the distance

is
8 from 6
is
9 from F
is
is
is
inch.
29 and 30.
29 and 31.
par-
inch.
by drawing a
line
line
is
the half-way between 7
from 9
is
located by drawing
and
and
is
16 from 13
is
'/2
17 from 13
is
Va inch.
is
length as
34 from
K.
to
2 inches.
is
the
is
same length
as
37 from
line
Draw
from
a line from
12
40
is
l'/4
is
'^
inch.
inch.
20 from
is
Vz
43 from 42
as
1 '/2
inch,
34
par-
inches.
inch
2'/2
is
more than
the dis-
inches.
Shape the center
of front;
front the neck, shoulder,
finish
on the
armhole and darts
as represented.
for
seam.
for
seam.
Shape both side-gores
the run
for
tance from 35 to 37.
inch.
21 from P is Vz inch.
22 from 21 is % inch
23 from 15 is % inch
39
with line 26-27.

is
to
42 from 41
is
24
of the waist line.
41 from 40
is
is
inch.
18 from 14
lines
with line 29-26.
inch.
19 from 14
1 1
located
allel
15 from 12
same length
is
38 from 37
39 from 31
9.
10.
through 13.
is
31.
is
24 from 10
is
from
13
1 1
is
37 from 35
inch.
12
Shape
29
32.
inch.
%
%
located
25 from
from
34 from 33 is % inch.
36 from 32 is the same
through 10.
14
a line through 31
located by drawing
is
allel
to 5.
7 from 5
10 from
through 28.
4 from D
1 1
from
line
parallel with line 1-2.
waist line.
from
through 26.
2 from
Darts
as represented.
and
is
from 9 the
to 10.
inches.
44 from 10
same length
as
25 from
45 from 43 is 1 '^ inches.

43 from 37 is the same length
as
45 from
is
the
24.
39.
47 from 27
is
inch.
23
X
Tight-Fitting with
Two
Darts
24
Back and Semi-Fitting Front
Tight-Fitting
First lay
up
as described
in
all
22 from 21
23 from 15
from
2 from
Draw
is
2'^ inches.
is
from C
lines
through 2 as represented
to
and from
is
is
1%
is
4 from
5 from 3
from
6 from 4
from 3
2 inches.
inches.
is
allel
inch
more than
the distance
is
8 from 6
is
9 from F
is
is
is
30
inch.
inch.
by drawing a
located by drawing
is
line
from 28
line
from 28
E~26.
located by drawing
line
from 9
32 from 30
33 from 29
34 from 28
is
'/2
inch.
is
inch.
is
2'/2
inches.
is
the
same length
as 31 from
28.
is
13
is
the half-way between 7
is
located by drawing
through 13.
and
Draw
9.
and 10.
line
from
a line from
24
to
34
for the
run
of waist line.
12
35 from 30
is
3'^ inches.
Finish the front as represented.
15 from 12
is
16 from 13
is
'/a
17 from 13
is
'/2
18 from 14
is
inch.
inch.
36 from 10
is
the
same length
as
25 from
as
37 from
24.
inch.
inch.
37 from 35
is
V/a inches.
inch.
38 from 31
is
the
19 from 14
is
20 from
is
Vi inch.
21 from P
is
par-
with line 1-2.
31 from 29
inch.
12
11
through 29.
inch.
%
%
located
lines
parallel with line
through 10.
14
29
to 5.
1 1
Shape
26 from 2 is 2 inches.
Draw line from E through 26.
27 from G is 3'^ inches.
28 from 27 is 2 inches on line drawn
to K.
7 from 5
10 from
same length as 9 to 10.

25 from 11 is l'/2 inches.
for the fashionable
waist line.
3 from C
inch for seam.

inch for seam.
24 from 10
inch.
'/2
%
%
Shape both side-gores as represented.

the
is % inch, and is from 9
1
is
is
is
'/2
inch.
same length
34.
Tight-Fitting
Back and Semi-Fitting Front
25
26
Blouse
First lay
up
all
points to your
measure as described
in
then
continue as follows
from Z
is
'/2
is
2'/4
2 from
Draw
3 from
is
lines
is
inch.
inches.
from C
to
and from
to
2 for the fashionable waist line as represented.
2 inches.
5 from 4
is
6 from
is
4 inches
F and M.
inch.
Finish the back as represented.
7 from 4
is
is
inch.
2 from E.
through E, and
is
from E the same length
as
Blouse
27
28
Basque or Tunic Skirt

Measurers
Waist 26 inches.
Hips 42 inches.
To Draft
Draw
A.
a straight line as
from
is
from
is
from
E
F
from
B
C
is
is
is
is
from
to
1.
the half Waist measure, in this case 13 inches,
inches.
2 inches.
1
dawn from D.
inch on line squared
located by a line sweeped from B, pivoting at A.

located by a line sweeped from C, pivoting at A, and
Hips measure,
half
B-C
in this
the front iine, and F--G
is
is
from C Vi inch more than the
case 2V/i inches.

is
the back line.
To Lengthen
the Skirt
is
through
to the length
measure as desired.
is
F through
to the length
measure as
is
the center between
4 from
is
B and
desired.
F.
V/i inches less than the half distance between
and
2,
and
is
from 3 the
length as desired.
is
located by drawing a line from 3 to 4.
6 from 5
is
7 from 4
is
the half difference between the width of bottom from
of
to
2 and the width
bottom as required.
8 from 4
of
inch.
is
the half difference between the width of bottom from
to
2 and the width
bottom as required.
Cut out the space 6
-7--8--6 as
represented, and join
together 6-7
the Dart on the waist line as represented on the bottom draft 3--6--3.
NOTICE: On
this draft
are seams
not allowed.
with 6-8
to
get
Basque or Tunic Skirts
29
30
Tight- Fitting Eton with

First lay
up
all
One Dart
points to measure as described in Systematical Outline,
then con-
tinue as follows:
1
from Z
is
^/i
is
2'^ inches.
2 from
Draw
inch.
from C to
lines
and from
through 2
for
the fashionable
waist
line
as
represented.
3 from
is
2 inches.
is
5 from 4
is
6 from
is
F and M.
inch.
4 inches.
7 from 4
is
8 from 2
is
1%
inch.
inches.
a line from
Draw
is
3'^ inches.
10 from 9
is
l'/2
9 h-om
11
is
to 8.
inches on line drawn from 9 parallel with line 1-2.
located by drawing a line from 10 parallel with line E~8.
12 from 11
is
l'/4 inches.
13 from 11
is
2%
inches.
14 from 10
is
the
same length
as 12 from
10.
Finish the Front as represented.

If
you wish
to 3.
to
have a close back, take
off
ys inch
seam
at the
back center from
Tight- Fitting Eton with
One Dart
31
32
Tight-Fitting Eton with
First lay
up
all
Two
Darts
points to your measure as described in Systematical
Outline, then
from
2 from
is
Draw
is
2'^ inches.
lines
3 from C
V2 inch.
is
from C
1 to
for the fashionable waist line as represented.
2 inches.
is
the half
way between F and M.
5 from 4
is
6 from
is
4 inches.
and frcm
to 1
inches.
7 from 4
is
8 from 2
is
1%
inch.
inches.
Draw
a line from
3'^ inches.
9 from
is
to 8.
is
located by drawing a line through 9 parallel with line
1 1
is
located by drawing
12
is
the half
13
is
14
is
located by drawing a line from 13 parallel with line E--8.
10
% inch.
% inch,
15 from 14
s
s
17 from 16
s 1
19 h-om 12
from 10 through
way between 10 and
16 from 14
18 from 17
a line
and
is
11.
from 13 the same length as 15 from 13.
inch less than the distance between
2 inches,
s
the
1--2.
9.
same length
as 17 from 12.
and K.
Two
Darts
33
34
up
First lay
all
One Side-Gore
points to your measure as described
in Systematical
Oudine, then
from
2 from
Vi inch.
is
2'^ inches.
is
Draw
from
lines
to
and from
through 2
for
the
as represented.
3 from C
is
4 from P
is
5 from
6 from 3
2 inches.
is
%
%
inch.
inch.
same
the
is
as
from A.
Finish the back part as represented.
7 from 6
is
8 from 4
is
Vi inch.
9 from 8
is
10 from F
is
V/i inches.
is
2 '^ inches.
1 1
from
inch.
inch for seam.
Finish the side gore as represented.
12 from 10
13 from
is
is
'/4
14 from 2
is
1%
Draw a
15 from
16 from 15
17
is
is
is
inch.
inch.
inches.
line
from E
to
14.
3'^ inches.
Vh
inches on line drawn parallel with line
located by drawing a line from 16 parallel
18 from 17
is
19 from 17
is
2%
inches.
20 from 16
is
the
same
I'A inches.
length as 18 from 16.
with line
1--2.
E-14.
fashionable waist line
One Side-Gore
35
36
Seam
Tight-Fitting Eton with French

up
First lay
all
Outline, then
1
from Z
2 from
is
Draw
inch.
'/i
inches.
2'/4
is
from C to
lines
and from
through 2
for
the
fashionabie
represented.
3 from
is
4 from
is
is
is
inch.
L and
6 from 3
7
2 inches.
same
the
is
as
4, or located accordingly style
located by drawing a line from 5 to 6 as represented.
8 from 6
is
9 from 5
is
Ys inch
and
is
V4
inch higher from the line L-0.
10 from 4
is
inch and
is
V4
inch higher from line L--4.
11 from P
is
inch.
12 from F
is
IVz inches.
13 from
is
ZVa inches.
inch.
and the back
Finish the back part
14 from 12
15 from
Draw
17 from
1%
inches.
a line from
is
is
side gore as represented.
inch.
inch.
V4
is
18 from 17
is
is
is
18 from 2
19
and
from A.
to
16.
3'4 inches.
IV2 inches on line drawn parallel with line
1--2.
located by drawing a line from 18 parallel with line E--16.
20 from 19
is
l'/4
21 from 19
is
2^^ inches.
22 from 18
is
the
23 from R
Draw a
24 from 23
Draw
is
the
line
is
inches.
same length
same
from 23
to
20 from
as
length as
18.
to 5.
18.
inch.
a line from
24
parallel with line 23--18 as represented.
taste.
waist
line
as
Tight-Fitting Eton with French
Seam
37
38
Seam
Tight-Fitting French
as
First lay up all points to your measure

described in Systematical Outline, then
25 from 5 is y%
same length
26 from 16
is
from
is
'72
27 from 26
is
2 from
is
2'^ inches.
Draw
lines
through 2
inch.
from
to
and from
represented.
3 from C
is
4 from D
is
is
5 from
6 from P
Draw
7
is
29 from 15
1%
30 from 2
%
%
is
inch.
31
make
the width to style or taste.
is
inch less than
33 from
to
33
K.
located by drawing a line from 7 to 8
10 from 4
is
12 from 10
is
14 from
is
is
13 from F
%
%
35
is
than 3 to
8.
inch.
line
from
17
is
18
located by drawing a
is
through 17.
is
'/2
is
inch.
22 from 18
is
inch.
23 from 15
is
'/2
24 from 7
is
from the
line
line
from 16
is
1 Vi
inches.
is
2%
inches.
38 from 34
is
the
is
same length
36 from
as
41 from
with line
Draw
is
is
4%
the
36
par-
-31.
inches.
same width
as
to 7.
a line from 41 to 34.
42 from 41
Draw
is
44 inch for seams.
a line from
43 from 14
42
parallel
with line
is
the
same
length as
29 from
28.
inch.
L-5.
par-
41-34.
inch.
y% inch,
34
with line E-30.
13
inch.
20 from 17
inch.
2 inches on line drawn from
is
40 from 39
21 from 18
3'/t inches.
is
37 from 35
39
inch.
is
'/)
from E
line
34.
16
is
inches.
inches.
36 from 35
inch.
a
is located by drawing
through 14.
19 from 17
from 13 the
is
13.
allel
15
side gores as rep-
allel
% inch more
% inch.
is
from 8
and
by drawing a
is
34 from 33
as represented.
1 1
located
is
l'/2
is
is
32 from 31
a line from 5 to 6.
is
inch for seam.
through 30.
inch.
the half-way between 5 and L, or
8 from 3
from 6 the
inch.
28 from 14 is % inch, and

same length as 14 from
2 inches.
inches.
is
P.
resented.
fashionable waist line as
for the
Finish the back

1
and
from
inch,
as
and
is
!/4
inch higher
44 from 40
is
1 '^
inches.
45 from 36
is
the
same length
as
38.
44 from
Seam
39
40
Tight- Fitting Double French

up
First lay
as
all
from
is
'/2
2 from
is
2'^ inches.
Draw
from
lines
through 2
inch.
for the
to
and from
1%
is
5 from O
6 from P
Draw
2 inches.
is
is
is
%
%
41
inch.
inch.
6.
is
the half of
distance
from
is
the half of
distance
from
to K.
is
located by drawing a line from 7 to 8.
10 from 4
is
inch
14.
16 from 12
is
inch
45
46
more than the distance
from 3 to 8.
1 1 from 8 is '^ inch.
12 from 10 is Vi inch.
13 from 5 is '/2 inch more than L to 7.
14 from 1 1 is '/2 inch more than 3 to 8.
15 is located by drawing a line from 13
to
42
43
44
to K.
8 from 3
more than 11
Finish the middle back part
to 14.
as repre-
47
48
49
line
from
19
through 20.
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
is
line
through 39
line from 40
is located by drawing a
through 39.
is the half-way between 40 and 41.
is located by drawing a line from 43 parallel with line E~36.
from 44 is Vs inch.
from 44 is Vs inch, and is from 43 the
same length as 45 from 43.
from 47 is l'^ inches.
from 46 is 1 inch less than the distance
from
to K.
42.
17 from 14 is '/2 inch.

18 from 16 is Vi inch.
19 from F is % inch.
21 is located by drawing a
is
Ys inch.
50 from 48 is '^ inch more than the distance

from 46 to 49.
52 from 42 is the same length as 49 from
sented.
22
23
24
is
inches.
from 5 to
line
7 from L
through 36.
38 from 37
39 from G. is 3'/i inches.

represented.
3 from C
4 from D
34 from 20 is % inch, and is from 19 the

37 is located by drawing a line from E
Seam

a line from 22
through 23.
from 23 is '/2 inch.
from 24 is 1 inch.
from 24 is 1 inch.
from 13 is
inch, and is '4 inch higher
from line L-5.
from 5 is
inch, and is from 6 the same
length as O from P.
from 22 is 1 inch.
from 32 is
inch for seam.
Finish the side gores as represented.
53 from 50 is 2'^ inches.

54 from R is yg inch more than the distance
from L to 7.
Draw line from 54 to 43.
55 from 54 is % inch for seams.
Draw a line from 55 parallel with line
54-43.
56 from U is the same width as 30 to 31.

Draw a line from 57 to 42.
57-42.
58 from 20 is the same length as 35 from 34.

By cutting out the pattern allow extra

inch for seams all way down at lines
7--8--10,
and
7--11--12.
Tight-Fitting Double French
Seam
41
42
Tight- Fitting 18 Gores

described- in Systematical Outline, then
as
from Z
2 from Y
1
Draw
through 2
'/i
for the
44
1
and from
represented.
3
4
5
6
from C
from D
from O
from P
2 inches.
is
42 from 21
43 from 2
inch.
is 2'^ inches.
lines from C to
is
41 from 20 is '^ inch, and is from 19 the

45
46
47
1%
inches.
inch.
inch.
is
7 from L is the half of distance
to K.
8 from 3 is the half of distance
is
%
%
is
48
49
50
from
from
52
9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8.

10 from 4 is % inch more than the distance
53
54
to
51
K.
from 3
to 8.
55
from 8 is Va inch.
12 from 10 is V2 inch.
13 from 5 is V2 inch more than L to 7.
14 from 11 is the same width as 3 to 8.
1 1
to 14.
18 from 16 is Vz inch.
19 from F is l'^ inches.
20 from 1 is l'^ inches.
28
29
30
31
60
61
62
63
line
from
19
through 20.
27
58
59
inch more than 11 to 14.

is
Finish the middle back part as represented.
16 from 12
22
23
24
25
2G
58
57
one-third of 15-19.
is the halfway between 15-22.
is one-third of 17-20.
is the half-way between 17-24.
a line from
through 24.
a line from
through 25.
nch.
from 25 is
nch.
from 25 is
nch.
from 24 is
nch.
from 24 is
nch.
20
is
from
nch.
from 27 is
nch.
from 27 is
nch.
from 26 is
nch.
from 26 is
64
G5
66
is
32
33
34
35
36
37 from 21
38 from 13
is
is
23
nch, and
is
is
V^ inch
higher
from 6 the same
1%
inch.
inches.
drawing a line from E

is located by
through 43.
inch.
from 44 is
from G is 3'^ inches.
is located by drawing a line through 46
is located by drawing a line from 47
through 46.
is located by drawing a line from 50 parallel with line E-43.
inch.
from 52 is
inch, and is from 50 the
from 52 is
from 55 is I'/t inches.
from 54 is 1 inch less than ihe distance
from A to K.
from 56 is '^ inch more than 57 from 54.
from 57 is 1 V2 inches, and is from 49
the same length as 57 from 49.
from 58 is 1% inches.
from 51
is located by drawing a line
through 61.
from 61 is '^ inch.
from 61 is '^ inch.
from 62 is V4 inch.
from R is
from L to 7.
inch for seams.
from 66 is
%
%
66-50.
68 from U is the same width as 38 to 39.
69-49
is the half-way between S and V.
72 from 6 1 is 1 V4 inches.
70
By
for
nch.
from line L-5.

inch, and
39 from 5 is
length as O from P.
40 from 23 is 1 inch.
67
22
is
is
cutting out the pattern allow extra
seams all way down as follows:

Ysinchat Hne7 9 8-10.
ys inch at line 7-9-11-12.
Vs inch at line 70-51-63-65.
% inch at line 70-51 64-62.
V4 inch at line
'^ inch at line
'/4 inch at line
19 32-71.
22-31-35.
40-23-29-32.
Tight- Fitting 18 Gores
43
44
Tight-Fitting
as described in Systematical Outline, then
First lay
up
all
rom Z is '/2 inch,

rom Y is 2V^ inches.
Draw lines from C to
through 2
and from
for the fashionable waist line as
o 15.
20 rom
rom
22
23
24
25
26
27
inch,
I/4
Vs inch,
18 is ihe same as 3 to 9.
from 19 is
inch more than
is
rom 20 is '^
rom 21 is V2
rom F is 1 '^
rom 1 is 1 '^
31
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
inch,
inch,
inches,
inches.
s located by drawing
a
hrough 26.
45
47
48
49
50
53
59
line
from 25
one-third of distance from

to 22.
s one-third of distance from 26 to 23.
s the half-way between 30 and 23.
a line from 28
hrough 30.
a line from 29
hrough 31.
31
31
Ys inch.
Hi inch.
30 is '/4 inch.
30 is Va inch.
26 is V4 inch.
33 is Vs inch.
33 is Vz inch.
32 is Ys inch.
32 is Vz inch.
27 is Va inch.
7 is ^/ inch, and is Va inch higher
ban line L- O.
rom 5 is
inch, and is the same length
rom 6 as
from P.
rom 29 is 1 inch.
rom 26 is Va inch.
rom 27 is 1 inch.
rom 2 is
inches.
from
is
one-fifth of the distance
from
is
from
to 54.
is
located by
hrough 49.
drawing a
line
from
from
55
through 66.
68 from 66 is Va inch.
69 from 66 is Va inch.
72
73
74
75
73
77
78
79
80
81
82
is
1%
lime
E-49.
62 from 61 is IVa inches less than K from A.
64 from 63 is the same as 62 from 61.
65 from 64 is Ya inch.
6G is the half-way between 65 and 47.
is
to 54.
58 from 57
is
46
53
rom
rom
rom
rom
rom
rom
rom
41 rom
42 rom
43 rom
44 rom
through
line
to 54.
57 from 56
71
18
25
32
53
is
o 20.
s located by drawing a line from 7 to 20.
28 rom 25
29
30
23 to 54.
5S from 55 is
parallel with line
18 rom 15
19 rom 16
is located by
drawing a line from 53
through 52.
55 from 53 is one-fifth of the distance from
7.
9 rom 3 is lYs inch less than K from A.

10 rom 4 is % inch more than 3 to 9.
11 s located by drawing a line from 8 to 9.
Finish the back part as represented,
12 rom 9 is V4 inch,
13 rom 10 is Ys inch.
14 s the half-way between 7 and 8.
inch less than 3 to 9.
15 rom 12 is
16 rom 13 is % inch more than 15 from 12.
17 s located by drawing a line from 14
21
Ys inch.
54
1
rom C is 2 inches,
rom D is 1% inches,
rom O is % inch,
rom P is % inch.
rom O is 2 inches.
rom L is one-third of distance from L
o
is
52 from G is 3Va inches.

52
rep: esented.
3
4
5
6
22 Gores
51 from 50
83
84
85
8G
line
from
60

from 70 is 1 inch.
71 is Va inch more than 62 from 61.

72 is I'/s inches.
73 is Va inch more than 64 from 63.
74 is % inch.
67 is Va inch.
R is Ys inch more than 8 from L.
from 77 is % inch for seams.
77-55.
from 78 is % inch more than 14 from 8.
from 79 is Ya inch for seams.
79-56.
from U is the same as 45 from 44.
from 81 is % inch for seams.
82-57.
is the half-way between S and V.
from 38 is the same length as 48 from 47.
from 75 is 1 Va inches.
Finish the front and bottom as repre-
from
from
from
from
from
from
sented.
By
for
cutting out the pattern allow extra

all way down as follows
seams
% inch at line 8
inch
inch
inch
inch
inch
inch
inch
inch
at line
al line
at line
at line
at line
at line
at
at
9 10.
8-12-13.
14-15 16.
14-18-19.
46-35 39.
28-37-41.
25 38 84.
Hne 83-69-67.
Hne 83-68-76.
Tight-Fitting 22
45
Gores
42
21
16
10
46
Semi-Fitting Back and Loose Front

up
First lay
all
Ootline, then
1
from Z
2 from
is
Draw
inch.
'/i
2'^ inches.
is
from
lines
to
and from
through 2
for
the fashionabie
represented.
3 from C
5 from
is
inches.
inch.
inch.
% inch.
% inch.
is
!/4
is
6 from P
7 from
l'/2
is
4 from 3
is
8 from 4
is
9 from 5
is
inch
to K.
more than the distance from 4
to 8.
more than
inch
the distance from
10 from 8
is
'/2
from 9
is
1 '/2
12 from 6
is
'/2
inch.
%
%
inch.
1 1
13 from F
is
14 from
is
15
is
inch.
inch.
located by drawing a line from 13 through 14.
16 from 14
17 from
is
is
'/2
is
'/2
19 from 15
is
is
inch.
inch,
'/2
18 from 15
20
inches.
and
is
from F the same length as 16 from 13.
and
is
inch.
inch,
located by line squared out from E.
21 from 2
Draw
is
'/2
line
inch.
from E through 21.
Finish the front
and
side gore as represented.
waist
line
as
Semi- Fitting Back and Loose Front
47
48
Semi-Fitting with Dart in Front

up
First lay
all
Ootline, then
1 from Z
2 from Y
is
'/2
inch.
2'^ inches.
is
and from
through 2
for
the
fashionable
represented.
3 from
4 from 3
5 from D
6 from P
7 from H
8 from 4
9 from 5
l'/2
is
inches.
a '^ inch.
is
is
inch.
% inch.
% inch.
is
is
inch
is
is
inch
more than the distance from A

more than the distance from 4
to K.
to 8.
10 from 8 is '/2 inch.

1 1 from 9 is 1 '/2 inches.
12 from 6 is '72 inch.
IG from 14 is '/2 inch.
line
from 13 through 14.
17 from 1 is '/2 inch, and is from F the same length as 16 from 13.
Draw line from E through 19.
20 from G is 3 Va inches.
21 from 20 is l'/2 inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19.
22 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E--19.
23 is located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E--19.
26 from 21 is the same lenghth as 24 from 21.
inch.
27 from 23 is
29 from 16
30 from 28
31 from 24
same length
is
the
is
l'^ inches.
is
the
same length
as
18 from 17.
as
30 from 26.
waist
line
as
49
50
Seam
Semi-Fitting French
up
First lay
as
all
20 from 18
21 from 7
from
is
'/2
is
2'^ inches.
Draw
inch.
from
lines
22 from
to
and from
as represented.
3 from
4 from 3
G from
7 from P
is
inches.
V4 inch.
is
5 from
Draw
l'/2
is
a line from 6 to
9 from 4
from A
10 from 5
from 4
1 1
is
make
the distance
more tham
the distance
as represented.
14 from F
15 from
16
is
is l'/2
1 is
inch.
by drawing a
through 15.
1
7 from
is
12
from 26
line
is
line
from 26
length as
29 from
by drawing a
located
V2 inch.
is
30 from 28
is
Vs inch.
from 29
is
3 inches.
32 from 26
is
the
same
is
3%
inches.
33 from 30
Draw
V2 inch.
18 from 8
is
Vs inch.
19 from 6
is
inch.
the
is
same width
a line from
is
34
as
to 8.
to 26.
inch for seams.
a line from
35
parallel
with line
34-26.
36 from 16
% inch.
% inch.
located
with line
localed
Draw
V2 inch.
is
by drawing a
is
35 from 34
13 from 10
27
34 from R
to 9.
is
3'/4 inches.
is
26.
located by drawing a line from 8 to 9
12 from 9
2 inches.
IV2 inches on line drawn from
more than
% inch
is
P.
26 from 25 is
25 parallel
29 from 27
7.
K.
to
from
through 27.
the half-way between 6 and 4, or
inch
inch.
is
is
25 from
28

is 1
as
parallel with line E- -24.
% inch.
% inch.
is
is
same length
Vz inch.
is
24 from 2
inch.
is
23 from 16
for the fashionable waist line
through 2
the
is
2 from
'^ inch.
is
V4 inch.
is
37 from 22
is
the
same length
as
36 from
17.
line
from 14
38 from 33
is
39 from 29
is
114 inches.
the
same length
as
38 from
32.
Finish
sented.
the front
and bottom as repre-
Semi-Fitting French
Seam
51
52
Semi-Fitting Hipless Effect

up
First lay
as
all
is
V2 inch.
2 from
is
2'^ inches.
Draw
23
to
and from
24
as represented.
3 from C
3V4 inches.
is
is I'/a
inches on line drawn from
is
is
line
18-5.
by drawing a
located
paralled with line
for the fashionable waist line
through 2
2 inches.
is
21 paralled with
from C
lines
21 from
22 from 21
from
20 from 2
by drawing a
located
line
from 22
line
from 22
-20.
through 23.
3 inches.
25 from 23
is
3 inches.
5 from 2
is
3 inches.
26 from 23 is Ya inch, and is from 22

same lenght as 25 from 22.
4 from
Draw
is
from 3
lines
to
4 and from 4
to
27
as represented.
6 from 3
7 from
8 from P
9 from
10 from 6
11 from 7
29 from
V4 inch.
is
is
is
inch
more than
from A.
more than 10 from
6.
12 from 10
13 from 11
is
is
14 from F
is
15 from 4
is
16
% inch.
% inch.
19 from 16
is 1
inch.
inch.
the
is
length
as
of
is
located by a line squared out from 29.
is
32
is
is
line
from
14
37
is
is
the
same length
the
same
as
30 from
10.
length as
35 from
18.
36 from 32
V4 inch.
is '^
garment
inch.
31
35
Finish the back-side gore as represented.
18 from 4
up
30
34 from 17
inches.
is located by drawing a
through 15.
17 from 15
is
33 from 12
'^ inch.
I'/i
line
desired.
inch.
l'^ inch
is
the
inch.
is 1
inch.
'/i
is located by drawing a square

from the hip line to 26.
28 from
l'^ inches.
is
is
is 1
'^ inches.
a line from 25
through 24, and is from 25 the same
is
located by drawing
38 from R
is
inch.
Allow for button stand 2 inches for single

breasted and 3 inches for double breasted.
53
54
Semi-Fitting Coat with

up
First lay
all
Underarm Gore.
Outline, then
from
is
'/2
2 from
is
2'^ inches.
Draw
inch.
is 1 '/2
4 from 3
is
5 from
6 from
from
lines
3 from C
to
and from
inch.
7 from 6
is
8 from 4
is
3 inches more than
is
to
'^ inch.
is 1
% inch.
% inch.
inches.
is
from A.
located by drawing a curved line from 7 to 8 as represented.
10 from 5
is
inch
more than 8 from
4.
from 7
is
1 Vi
inches.
2 from 9
is
inches.
13 from 8
is
2 inches
1 1
1
14 from 10
15
is
'/2
1%
is
inches.
located by drawing a shapad line from 11 to 14 as represented.
16 from 2
17 from
2 inches.
is
Draw a
line
from E through 16
is 3'/4
18 from 17
is '/i
for the
run of front center.
inches
inch.
19
is
locaied by drawing a line from 18 parallel with line
20
is
21 from 19
is
Vi inch.
22 from 21
is
3 inches.
23 from 18
is
the
24 from 20
is
% inch.
25 from 24
28 from
is
27 from 26
is
28 from
29
is
is
3%
as 21 from 18.
inches.
% inch.
% inch.
the length of garment as desired.
is
located on line squared out from 28.
30 from 15
3
is
same length
is
located
the
on
same length
line
32 from 31
is
l'^ inches.
33 from 21
is
the
same length
Finish the front
as
29 from
8.
squared out from 28.
as
32 from 23.
and underarm gore
as represented.
-16.
Semi-Fitting Coat with
Underarm Gore.
55
56
Sac Coat with Loose Front

up
First lay
all
Outline, then
1
from Z
is
is
2 from
Draw
3 from
4 from 3
inch.
'72
lines
from
6 from
to
and from
7 from 6
is
8 from 4
is
3 inches more than
is
to 2 for the fashionable waist line as represented.
inch.
is 1
% inch.
% inch.
'^ inch.
is
inches.
is 1*72
5 from
inches.
2'/4
is
from A.
10 from 5
% inch more than 8 from 4.
is

1 1
from 8
1%
13 from F
14 from
inch.
is '/2
12 from 10
inches.
^h inch.
is
1 is Vj inch.
inches and
15 from 14
is 2'/2
16 from 14
is
Ys inch.
17 from 14
is
ye inch.
18 from 2
19 from
is '/2
is
is
inch.
20
is
21
is
22 from
1 1 is
23 from
24
is
is 1
is
same length
as
E through
20 from
18.
8.
inch.
located by a line squared
25 from 24
26
the
is '/2
down from S and
is
2^2 inches below the fashionable waist
line.
inch.
25 through 15 and
is
the half of the pocket
size, in this
case 3 inches.
27
is
inches.
28 from S
29 from
30
is
is 1
is
26 through 25 and
is
the
full
pocket
size, in this
inch.
y2 inch.
28 through 29, and
Finish the draft as represented.
is
in this
case 5 inches long.
case
57
58
Sac Coat with Shaped Front

up
First lay
all
Outline, then
from
is
'/2
2 from
is
2'^ inches.
Draw
lines
3 from C
is
4 from 3
is '^
5 from
6 from
inch.
from
to
and from
inch.
is
% inch.
% inch.
8 from 4
is
3 inches more than
is
inch.
is 1
7 from 6
to
inches.
1 '/i
is
from A.
10 from 5
is
inch
more than 8 from
4.

1 1
from 8
is
'/2
12 from 10
inches.
1%
is
inches.
13 from F
is '/2
inches.
14 from
is
inch.
'/2
2 '/a inches and
15 from 14
is
16 from 14
is '/2
inch.
17 from 14
is
inch.
18 from 2
19 from
21
is
22
is
3'^ inches.
is
20 from 19
2 inches.
is
'/2
is
is l'/2
inches on line drawn from 19 parallel with line 12-
20
20 through
23 from 21
is '/2
inch.
24 from 22
is
inch.
25 from 23
is
3 inches and
26 from 24
is
3%
27 from
is
parallel with line
inches
the length of garment as denired.
is
28
is
29
is
30 from
1 1
is
the
31 from 29
is
1 '^
32 from 23
is
33 from R
is
34 from 33
the
same length
as
28 from
3^^ inches.
is
8.
inches.
same
E 18.
21.
% inch for seams.
Sac Coat with Shaped Front
59
60
How
To make
to
a shoulder dart
make Shoulder Dart
we must have
first
a french
seam
Put the two parts together so that they should lap over
and B
to
as represented.
front.
inch from
to
How
to
make Shoulder-Dart
61
62
Loose Box Coat

up
First lay
all
Outline, then
1
from Z
2 from
is
Draw
3
is
inch.
'/2
2'^ inches.
is
lines
4 from 3
is
5 from 3
is
is
V4 inch
is
l'^ inches.
8 from C
is
is
%
%
10 from L
is
'^ inch.
is
inch.
12 from 2
is
V2
inch.
9 from
11 from
Draw
13 from
is
through 2 as represented.
F.
inch.
"
E through
12.
is
16 from 4
is
and from
inch.
a line from
15 from 14
17
more than 5 from
14
to
% inch.
% inch.
7 from 6
6 from
Vz inch.
is
the
is
same length
as 15 from 5.
8 from
is
19 from 11
is
from
the half-way between F and M.
Allow
for
V4
inches.
inch.
button stand 3 inches for single breasted, 4 inches for double breasted.

If
center.
you wish
to
have the back center without seam, take
off
inch
seam
at the
back
Loose Box Coat
63
64
Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart

up
First lay
all
points to your
in
1
fom Z
2 from
inch.
is 1/2
is
2'^ inches.
Draw Lines from C
to 1
and from
the half-way betveen F, and M.
3 is
inch.
4 from 3 is
inch.
5 from 3 is
6 from 1 is '^ inch more than 5 from
7 from 6 is 1 V4 inches.
8 from C is % inch.
9 from A is % inch.
10 from L is V4 inch.
1 1 from R is % inch.
%
%
Draw a
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
line
from
F.
from G is 314 inches.

from 13 is iy2 inches on line drawn from 13 parallel with
is located by a line drawn from 14 parallel with line E-12.
is located by a line drawn from 14 parallel with line E-12.
from 16 is V2 inch.
from 17 is 3 inches.
line 1-2.
22 from A is the full length as desssired.
23 is located by a line squared up from 22,
24 is located by a line sqoared up from 22.
25 is located by a line squared up from 22.
30 from R is inch.
Allow
for button stand
3 inches
for single breasted,
4 inches
for
double breasted.

If
you wish
to
have the back centre without seam, take
off
'
inch
seam
at te
back centre
To get the front-shoulder dart make the front with french-seam as follows:
inch for seams.
32 from 31 is
Draw a line from 32 parallel with line 31-14 as represented.
To get the shoulder dart bring the front parts together as described an illustrated on
pages 60 and 61.
Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart
65
66
Coat Sleeve
Draw
2 from
is
Square a
3 from
line
up from
full
is
is
the center of
is
is
the center of 2-4.
is
the center of
by a
line
line
is
2 inches.
10 from 8
is
the
is
2 inches.
same length
from
12
is
the center of 10-11.
13
is
the center of 3-10.
between
14 from
12
is
15 from
is
16 from
is j-o
inch.
17 from
is '2
inch.
18 from 6
20 from
7 is 2 incses.
Draw
is
22 from 20
is
21
is
Draw
and from
through
3.
a line from 4 through 20.
21 from 20
24 from
2 inches.
is
5 is 3 inches.
as 8 from
'2 inches.
19 from
23 from
5.
inch.
'4
up from
from 8 as represented.
1 1
lines
inch on a line squared up from
1-3.
9 from 9
Draw
1-2.
Square out a
bust measure plus
squared out from 3 as represented.
located
to 2.
2.
a quarter of the
is
the Sleeve length measure (inside seam).
'
is
all
inch.
inch.
inch.
l<2
inch.
construction lines as represented.
Shape the top sleeve
as represented
Shape the under sleeve
by
as represented
lines
by
between
lines
1-10-1 7-18-4-22-5-1
I.
between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9.
Coat Sleeve
67
68
Sleeve with fulness on top
To make
Mark
the sleeve with
the top-sleeve as
The shape
ness
is
more
on the head, proceed as follows
fulness
shown by A-B-C-D-E.
of the sleeve
remains always the same between A-B-C-D and
allowed only at points E, F, G,
ful-
as desired.
Finish the top-sleeve as represented.
The
under-sleeve
is
not to be changed
One
it
remains always the same.
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the top and Cuff
To
malce one piece sleeve place the top and under sleeves together at the
back seam
so, that
they should overlap
'4
inch for figuring the seams
the sleeve as represented.
The
cuff
is
represented by heavy, broken lines.
off,
and
finish
Sleeve with fulness on top
One
Piece Sleeve
with fulness on the lop and Cuff
69
70
One Piece Sleeve

with fulness on the bottom
Bishop Sleeve
Place the fop- and under sleeve together
figuring the seams
inch for
and
off,
The lower diagram shows how

Square bot-ways from
1.
the sleeve length measure (inseam).
is
one-quarter of the
between
is
the center
is
the
is
the center between
as 1-3 on
same
7 from 2
8 from
10 from
same
the
and
full
line
by
direct drafting as follows:
'
4 inch.
4.
from
as 6
squared out from
on
line
7.
squared out from
6.
2 inches.
is
lines.
and
1 1 is
12
the center between 9 and
13 from
11
is
14 from
12
is
is
is
18 from 8
is
19 from 6
is
'4
'4
9.
10.
inches.
mch.
2 inches.
5 is 3
17 from 8
they should overlap
1-3.
the center between
16 from
Bust measure plus
Hne squared out from
Connect 1-9-10 by
15 from 4
so, that
2.
as 6 from
2 inches on
is
same
the
is
7 is
9 from 6
is
this sleeve
is
make
seam
as represented.
2 from
3 from
to
the back
at
represented by the upper diagram.
finish as
inches.
inch.
inch.
2 inches.
Connect points as represented.
Shape the sleeve
the top
at
5
and
between
and
front
seam
as represented.
20
is
the center between
21
is
the center
and
6.
22
is
line
from 20 through 21.
23
is
Fold the paper
at
6.
the line 22-20-23 and trace over the under sleeve
8-20-2
bv the heavy, broken hne between points
-22- 19-
and
as
finish the sleeve as
represented
represented
One
Piece Sleeve
Bishop Sleeve
71
72
One
make
First
A-B. Draw a
Piece Tight Sleeve
a Bishop Sleeve as described on page 70 and then continue as follows
straight line
from
to B.
is
from
is
the sleeve length measure (inseam) on line squared
from
is
the half wrist measure plus
F from D
is
the
the.
center between
same
as
and
B.
E from D on
C.
inch for a seam on line squared out from D.
'x
line
down from
drawn from E through D.
Finish the sleeve as represented.
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
with seam at the middle of the under
First
A-B-C-D
E-F
is
is
make One
arm
Piece Tight Sleeve as described above and then continue as follows
the original sleeve.
about the middle of the under-sleeve.
Cut through the sleeve

so, that
B-C should be placed
at
to
E-F and place the piece B-C-E-F on the other side of the sleeve
A-D
accordingly the notches, and
mark over
the
new
sleeve
ar represented.
By using
this
kind of a sleeve be careful that the
correspond with the seam of the sleeve.
side
seam
of
the
garment should
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
with seam at the middle of the under arm
73
74
and Lapels
Collars
for button stand at the center of front for single breasted
Allow
to 2 inches, for
double
breasted 3 to 4 inches.
Showl Collar
Diagram
the shoulder point.
1 is
inch.
is
2 from
3 is the end of the break of lapel.
4 from 2 is }4 inch more than the width of the back neck on
Square up and down from 4.
'4 inches.
5 from 4 is
6 from 2 is
J4 inches.
7 from 4 is the width of the collar desired.
Allow about 4 inch for spring at point 7.
Shape the collar and lapel as represented.
1
line
drawn from
through
2.
'
Single Breasted Lapel
and Notch Collar
Diagram 2
From
to 7 are the
and
finish the lapel
same points
by the Showl Col ar (Diagram
as described
1),
then
),
then
collar as indicated.
Double Breasted Lapel and Notch Collar

Diagram 3
From
to 7 are the
and
finish the lapel
same points
by the Showl Collar (Diagram
as described
Two
Piece Collar
Diagram 4
First
mark
2 from is
3 is the end
1
4 from
is
5 from 2
is
the front
and back, then continue
as follows:
the shoulder point.
1 is
is
!/4
inches.
of the
break of
lapel.
the width of the collar desired.

1
'4 inches.
by drawing a line from 2 to 3.

Shape the collar and lapel as indicated by points
located
Finish the front collar as represented.

Trace over the lapel by breaking the paper
2-3-4.
on the crease
line 2-3,
and
finish
the
lapel
as represented.
7-8 is the back neck.

9 from 7 is 2' 2 inches.
10 from 9 is the same width
1 1
from
is
shoulder so
the
as 8 from
same length
much
as point 4
as 4 from 5
is
on the
line
on the
squared out from
front
and
is
outside from the front shoulder.
Finish the back collar as represented.
9.
locr.ted inside
from the back
Collars
and Lapels
75
76
Collars
is the width as desired.
Finish the collar as represented.
outer leaf of the collar line
9 from 6
Ulster Collar
Diagram
1-2.
Draw
The
through 2 to 3.
inch more than the width of
a line
from
must be
3 from 2 is '4
the back neck.
4 from 3 is '4 inches on hne squared down
from 3.
'4 inches on line squared down
is
5 from
Roll and Button
High Collor
Diagram E
1 is
the shoulder point.
from
9-7-8
slightly stretched.
'4 inches.
2 from
is
Draw a a line from 4 through to 5.
the width of
5 from
is '4 inch more than
the back neck.
6 from 5 is '4 inches on line squared down
from 5.
7 from 5 is the width of the collar desired on
line squared up from 5.
8 from 7 is o inch for spring.
I
a straight Hne from 5 to 4.

a Hne for the collar stand from 5
Draw
Draw
through 2 to
3.
6 from 3 is the collar width as desired on

squared out from 3.
7 from 6 is '4 inch for spring.
Shape the collar as indicated.
line
Standing or Military Collar
'
Diagram B
through 2 to 3.
1-2. Draw a Hne from
3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width
the back neck.
4 from 3 is inch.
5 from 3 is inch.
'4 inches.
is
6 from
Shape the collar as representend.
1
of
Standing Lay Down Collor

from two pieces
Diagram F
which was produced accordingly Diagram B.

'4 inches, and is the same length
5 from
is
from 2.
from 2 as
6 from 2 is the width of the collar deyired on
line draw from 2 through 3.
7 from 6 is 2 inch for spring.
1-2-3-4
is
the standing collar,

1
Standing Rolling Ulster Collar

Diagram C
through 2 to 3.
1-2. Draw a line from
3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of
neck.
back
the
4 from 3 is '4 inches on line squared down
from 3.
'4 inches.
is
5 from
Shape the collar stand from 5 through
1
'
Storm Collar
2 to
Diagram
3.
is the width of collar desired on

squared down from 4.
7 from 6 is '4 inch for spring.
6 from 4
Shape the
The stand
at 5-2-3 is to
line
be stretched.
Standing Rolling Miltary Collar

Diagram D
through 2 to 3.
3 from 2 is '4 inch more than the width of
the back neck.
4 from 3 is inch.
inch.
5 from 3 is
'4 inches.
6 from is
the width of the roll collar as
3
is
7 from
1
For producing this collar take a standing

collar and cut it in three pieces.
1-2 is the bottom of the standing collar.
3-4 is the top of the standing collar.
5-6 are located by dividing the bottom of
three part,
7-8 are produced by dividing the top line
of
the collar of three parts.

Depart the pieces at points 7 and 8 so
far as much fullness you desire and finish
the collar as represented.
Allow for seams betwêen the pieces.
Flat Collor
Diagram H
desired.
8 from
7 is
'
inch for spring.
For producing this collar put to gether

the front and back at the shoulder so, that
they should overlap '4 inch for taking the
seams off, and mark the collar to the shape
desired.
78
Cape
Circular
Diagram
Draw
B
C
from A
from B
a line from
through
B.
the Back waist-length measure.
is
by applying a tight-fitting back

pattern 2 inches, by a semi fitting back
and by a loose box
pattern
j inches,
coat back pattern draw line A-B on the
back center line of te pattern.

is located by placing the back and
together
is
the
at
seams
and
'
1.
they should overlap;
off
finish
front
the shoulder so, that figuring
the
circular
'4
inch,
cape as
rep-
resented.
Cape with One Shoulder Dart

Diagram
To produce
cape with one shoulder
dart continue on the circular cape (Diagr.
1)
2.
der dart.
from
as follows:
and D.
is
the center between
is
is
located by a line
G
H
I
from F
from G
the length of shoulder.
is
the half
we want
amount
to take out for
is
same
as
from G.
Take
out fulness H-l-J-H.
F-
will
seam F-H.
and it
form a shoulder dart F-H-F as represented
on Diagram
of fulness,
the
the shoulder
Join together lines H-i with H-J,
drawn from E through
is
Open
producing a shoul-
2.
Allow^ for seams at the shoulder dart,
which
and
finish as represented.
Cape with Two Shoulder Darts

Diagram
To Produce
cape with two shoulder
darts continue on the circular cape (Diagras follows
from F
is
L from G
is
I)
'
'
inch.
inch.
K is the shoulder length on line drown

K to L.
N from K is ^2 inches.
from
from
3.
O.
frpm L is to be taken out fulness as desired.

from L is to be taken out fulness as desired.
S from P the same as Q from L.
T from P is the same as R from L.
Open the shoulder seams from K to
and from N to O.
Take out fulness R-M-Q and S-O-T.
Join together lines
O
P
is
3 inches and from
from
shoulder length.
is
located
by drawing
a line
from
is
the
M through
with
T-O
to forni the
Allow
for
as represented.
seams
R-M
with Q-M, also S-O
two shoulder
darts.
at the darts,
and
finish
Capes
79
80
Yoke
To produce
a yoke lay the back and front together at the shoulder so, that
they should overlap
'4
inch for
figuring
the
seams
off,
and
finish the
represented.
Hood
The hood
A-B
is
is
constructed from a cape as follows
inches, or
from B
from
is
from
is
is
one
I
more
or less accordingly style or taste.
inch less than A-B, in this case say 9 inches.

third of the length of line B-C, in this case say 3 inches.
inch.
Finish the hood as represented.
yoke as
Yoke
Hood
81
4
3
82
Cape Coat
To produce
Take a
points
Cape Coat proceed as
loose box coat pattern
follows
and mark the
direction,
same
front
as
it
is
represented by
1-2-3-4-5-6-1.
Place the back part so that points 9 and
one
and
in the
direction as points
Mark
same time be
I
and
from 4
is
and
7.
allowed for fulness desired.
front of the
The back
of the
in
by points 7-8-9-10-11-12-7,
Shape the side seam as represented by points
The
and 8 should be
2.
the center between
is
should be with points 3 and 4 in
careful that points 7
the back pattern as represented
Cape Coat
Cape Coat
is
is
2 - 14.
6-13-2-14-5-6.
12-13-2-14-11-12.
the
Cape Coat
Te
AS
.1=:^
83
84
Cape with Kimono Sleeves
First
produce a Cape Coat as described on page 82, then continue as follows:
Draw a
straight line
from
from 2
is
is
from
3 through 2
till
5.
the sleeve length desired.
the
same length
Draw^ a curved line from
as
5 to
from
2.
6 as represented.
front
is
13-2- 15- 16- 14-5-6-13.
The back
is
13-2-15-16-14-11-12-13.
The
Cape with Kimono
Sleeves
85
86
Coat with Kimono Sleeves
A. Square both ways from
B
C
from
from
A
A
A
from
from B
as represented.
9 from L
is
the Scye depth measure.
10 from
is
the Back waist length measure.
1 1
is
the
full
plus
down from
J from
K
L
from B
from
from
12 from 4
is
'2
13 from
is
1/4 inches.
14
by a
is
squared out from K.
inch
''s
B-E
plus 2 inches.
than B from A.
less
from
line
is
from S
is
from
X
Y
from
is
is
2 from C
is
from
is
more than
inch
's
1
line
from
is
6 from 4
is
7 from
is
line
down from
4.
'4
and
is
the
/o
inch wider
13
is
is
17
line
from
same length
from
2*2 inches.
the
is
from
as L-9.
than
from
14
as 8 from
17
is
0.
same length
and
shape
0.
is
19
is
'4
down from
inch.
down from
20-Y.
21
Allow
is
2 '4 inches.
2 inches for single breasted
but-
ton stand and finish the front as represented.
inch.
/<!
Seam allowances
inches.
located by a line
and a
22 from
2.
12
G.
21
drawn
same length
18 from
19
from
9.
20 from
the center beetwen S and M.
E.
inch.
is
is
from A.
down from
from G.
'2 inches.
by
located
through
is
from
as
is
2 inches.
line
located by a line squared out from 15
is
the
3/4 inches.
r'4 inches less than
is
located by drawing
is
16
drawing a
3.
through
17 from
through Q.
S from
15
inch.
by
located
is
and
inch.
'4
is
line
part of
'4
is
through
the half of E-G.
located by drawing
is
10
a line squared
9.
inches.
2/4 inches.
is
located
is
from
line
part of B-E.
S/li
is
M
R
/4
is
is
from
C Y and
from
from
located by drawing
is
inches.
inch.
'4
is
parallel with line
length desired.
the half Bust measure
is
28 '4 inches.
is
drawn from 6 through
sqarad out from
1-3.
of
's
For a whole back take

center
's
inch allowed.
off at the
inch seam as represented.
back
Coat with Kimono Sleeves
87
88
Raglan Coat
up
First lay
all
points as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows
is
is
3 from
is
F.
down from
E.
inch.
4 from D
is
l^ inch.
5 from F
is
;)4
is
6 from
down from
inch.
'4 inches.
7 from F
8 from
9 from
is
J4 inches.
is
inch.
10 from
is
11 from
is
12 from 10
by
7 from
a line from 14 to the
12
is
the
is
'4
Draw
19 from
is
21 from
arm scye below
same as
15
is
located
point
as represented.
inch above the line drawn from 14 to below V.
from 11.
from
this line
''4
inch below
to the
arm scye
at
the back as represented,
and
inch.
inch.
is
is
inch,
and draw the crease
is
line.
the desired length.
23 from 22
'4
off the
18 through 19.
inches.
shoulder pieces from the front and back and add
top sleeve as represented to

In this draft are
off,
and
10,
a line from 18 through 19 for the front centre. Allow 2 inches for button stand.
3
Cut
squared up from
/^ inch.
is
Draw
20 from
line
pivoting at point 10.
inch.
a line
18 from E
is
from 10 on
/4 inch.
is
shape above
22
as 11
located by drawing a curwed line
16 from
1
same length
2|4 inches.
is
Draw
is
inches.
swesped forward from
13 from 10
15
inch.
'4
the
is
a line
14 from
inch.
'4
is
's
make
these
inch seams allowed except where the shoulder
has to be allowed for seams.
pieces to the
the raglan sleeve.
pieces were cut
Raglan Coat
J3_I2
89
90
Deep Armhole Coat
Diagram
First draft
and cut out a coat with Kimono sleeves as described on page 86,
then
continue as follows
Lay together the
front
and back
inch for taking the seams
1-2-3-4-5-6-7-1 is the
8-9-10-11 -12-13-14-8
off,
at the
shoulder seam
so, that
they shoald
overlap
and mark the coat from one piece.
front.
the back.
is
Diagram 2
15
is
16 from
15
17 from
15
18 from 4
19 from
11
is
is
is
is
inch,
the
same
2 inches,
the
more
same
8.
as 16 from 15.
more
as 18 from 4.
Shape the seams from 16
to
18 and from
7 to
19 accordingly
style
or
ta.ste
as
represented.
20 from
16
is
the
same length
as the shaped line
and
is
shaped inside
19 and
is
shaped inside
is
from 16
to 18
is
from 17
to
accordingly fullness desired under the arm.
21 from 17
the
is
the
same way
same length
as the shaped line
as point 20.
Finish the draft ss represented.
By
cutting out the patterns allow for
seams
at lines
16-18, 16-20, 17-19 and 17-21.
JTiEAMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Deep Armhole Coat
Diagram
Diagram
2.
91
92
One
This pattern
Lap over
esented by
is
Piece Coat
constructed from a semi
fitting
the two front parts at the bust of
and
and open the patterns
B,
'4
at the
block pattern as follows
inch for taking the seams off as rep-
hip line of
inch as
to D.
By applying
the
same
method be
this
direction as
E-
careful that the notches at the wâist line
F.
Put together the front and back
Lay over the two back patterns

as represented by
Continue the
a
same with
is
is
line
whole back
at
the side
seam
at
the shoulder of
N-O
is
'4
be
H.
inch for taking the seams off

at the
hip line at K.
L - M.
the
seme
direction as
points
P-Q
and connect
in
to the length desired.
required, take off
for button stand as
the end of the crease

1
and put together the same pattern
's
a straight line.
Allow
J,
at
careful that the notches at the waist line should
Be
If
and
should be in
much
line.
inch from the neck point.
desired.
inch seam
at
the
One
Piece Coat
93
94
New Market
To make
New
Market Coat or a Skirted Jacket proceed as follows
Cut out the pattern as represented by the upper diagram.

Cut
off
Put the
the skirt at the waist line as represented

skirt pieces together so,
waist and hip for taking
off
the
that
they should
seams and mark the
ted by heavy line on the diagram below.
by
-2-3-4-5.
overlap
skirt in
U inch
at
the
one piece as represen-
New Market
95
96
Inverness
First lay
from
2 from
Z
Y
up
/4 inch.
is
2/4 inches.
Connect points
3 from
all
is
the
is
C-
and
2 for the fashionable waist line.
length measure.
full
Square out from 3 as represented.
4 is located by a line squared down from M.

5 from C is /4 inch.
6 from A is '}^ inch.
7 from L is ^^ inch.
8 from 4 is Y2 inch.
9 is located by drawing a line from P through
8.
10 from
Yz inch.
\s
11
is
12-
from 4
13
is
E through
10.
12,
3 inches.
is
through
and
is
from
the
same
length as
9 from M.
14 from
15 from M
16 from R
I
17
is
is
is
is
inch.
3 inches.
^'4
inch.
the center of
Draw
18 from F
a line
A-B.
from
6 through
7.
the Sleeve length measure.
is
19
is
located by a line
sweeped from 18 pivoting
20
is
located by a line
sweeped from
21 from
19
Allow
is
16.
16.
inches for single breasted,
33^2
at
inch.
for button stand 2'
22 from 6 is
inch.
23 is the length of the crease
Draw a line from 22 to
1
point
18 pivoting at point
line.
23.
16-20-18-21
is
the cape.
inches for double breasted.
Inverness
97
98
Opera Cloak
Measures
Scye depth 7/4 inches.
Bust 40 inches.
Back waist length 15/^ inches.

Full length 50 inches.
Waist 26 inches.
Hips 41 inches.
To Draft
1.
as represented.
Square both ways from
is the Scye depth measure.
length measis the Back waist
1
2 from
3 from
ure.
is
6 inches.
5 from
is
the
Square out
length mesure.
full
from
lines
2,
3,
Yi inch.
is
21 from 8 is the same as 16 from I.

22 from 2 is the same as 2 from
23 from 22 is 33^4 inches.
24 from 23 is the same as 3 from
4.
2,
in
6 inches.
is the same as 12 from

lO on
squared up from 23.
from 22 is r'4 inches less than 25 from
line
is
26
is
one-quarter of the Bust meas-
27 from
23.
inches.
9 is located by a line squared down from 8.

10 from 8 is half of the distance 2-8,
6 inches.
Square up from 10 as represented.
1 1 from 6 is /4 inch.
12 is located by drawing a line from
throubh
13 is the center of 2-8.
in this case
is
2 inches.
14
is
/s inch less than

line
squared
the
up
is
half
of
the
distance
Scye
from
2-13,
3 inches.

18 from 15 is 2 inch on line drawn from
3
17 through
15.
14
is
inch.
22
is
inch.
21
Sweep
1
14.
in this case
25 is the same as 18 from 17 on

drawn from 25 through 26.
28 from
29 from
30 from
is
about
1;'4
on
inches
line
line
from 29
to
28
pivoting
at
point 30.
31 from 25
is
32 from
is
on
depth measure on
line
squared up from 21.
25 from 23
ure plus 2 inches, in this case
this' case
534 inches.
234 inches on line squared out
is
7 from 6
from 6.
8 from 2
16 from
4 and 5 as
represented.
14 from
15 from
is
4 from
6 from
19
20 from
2 inches.
/^ inch more than 16 from 1

squared out from 31.
31
line
33 is
34 from 9 is 3i2 inch.
36 from 35 is Yl inch.
37 is located by a line drawn
from
through 36.
38 from
37
is
inch.
24
Opera Cloak
99
5
6
100
Manipulation of Fronts and Backs
The Back
The back
part
is
drawn by heavy
and
lines,
is
constructed with a seam
at
the back
center.
If
no seam
Draw
Cut
4 to
wânted at the back center proceed as follows
is
a straight line from
5-3-2-5 and add
piece
off the
through 2
to
the
5.
same
to the
back as represented
from
6.
Take
seam
off the
j'g
from
inside
line
5 as represented
by
line
7.
The Front
The
front part
is
drawn by heavy
lines
and
is
constructed with a seam at the front
center.
If
no seam
8- 13-
line
Take out
fulness as
by a
straight line
much you gained
8- 13-
14.
at the front
center
14.
fulness as follows:
from
from
Take
much
out at the front dart so
by drawing the
proceed as follows
at front center,
straight chest line as represented
Continue the
Take
wanted
is
off the
is
the
same
as
is
the
same
as
seam
from
4 from
9.
0.
inch inside from line 8- 13- 14 as represented by line 17.
TH E AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
10
12
101
102
Single Breasted Vest
up
First lay
all
points to measure as described in Systematic Outline, then continue
as follows
from
2 from
Z
Y
inch.
is
"JA.
is
2/4 inches.
Draw
from
lines
to
and from
through 2 for the fashionable
waist
line
as
represented.
3 from C
is
2 inches.
is
5 from 4
is
6 from
is
4 inches.
inch.
7 from 4
is
/4 inch.
8 from 2
is
\%
Draw
9 from
10 from 9
1 1
is
line
inches.
from E
is
3J4 inches.
is
l^j inches
to 8.
on
line
drawn from 9
parallel with line
1-2.
12 from
11
is
13 from
is
2?4 inches.
14 from
10
is
the
15 from 12
is
about 5 inches on line drawn from 12 parallel with line 10-11.
is
the
16 from
17 from
14
1
J4 inches.
same length
same
'2
is
Allow
20 from
is
'4
from 12 on
line
drawn from
14 parallel with line
10-11.
inch.
inch.
inch for button stand and finish the front as represented.
is
3 inches.
21 from 6
is
3 inches.
Take
15
10.
2*4 inches.
is
18 from the neck gorge

19 from
as
as 12 from
out
as represented.
,'4
inch above line 3-6 and
inch below the line 3-6 and finish the skirt
Single Breasted Vest
103
TEH AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
104
Tight-Fitting Double Breasted Vest
up
First lay
all
points to measure as described in Systematic Outline, then continue
as follows
from
2 from
Z
Y
inch.
is
/<2
is
2K
Draw
inches.
from
lines
to
and from
through 2 for the fashionable
waist
line
as
represented.
3 from
3 inches.
is
is 3 inches.
4 from
Draw line from 3
1
is
7 from 3
is
to 4.
is
10 from
is
is
2?^ inches.
is
2 inches.
to
5.
F and M.
the center between
9 from 8
inches.
/<i
inch.
1 1
from 4
12
is
the center between 6 and 9-
13
is
11.
10
is
's
inch less than the center between
15 from 14
is
inch.
14 from
10 and
5.
16 from 8
is
17 from 4
is
is
8 from
19 from
20 from
19
/4 inch.
is
is
inch.
inches.
3J4 inches.
on
1/^ inches
line
drawn from
19 parallel with line
located by drawing a line from 20 parallel with line
21
is
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
from 21
is
1*4
from 22
is
about
from
21
is
2*4 inches.
from 20
is
the
same length
from 25
is
the
same
Make
is
-2.
8.
inches on line drawn from 22 parallel with line 20-21.
from the front center
inches.
from the neck gorge
from
as 22 from 20.
as 23 from 22 on line
is
'4
line
drawn from 25
parallel with line
20 -21.
inch.
E- 18
is
2^
j,
inches for button stand.
inch.
the french cut as described on
page
36,
and
finish
the front as represented.
Tight-Fitting Double Breasted Vest
105
106
By applying
the System for Stout or Maternity sizes pay attention to the Waist
Suppression and Hips Development as described on page 20.
Table of Proportionate Measurements

For Stout or Maternity Sizes
SIZE
107
108
Seam
Semi-Fitting French
For Stout or Maternity Sixes
Measures
Scye depth 7*4 inches.
Back waist length 15'/) inches.
Bust 39 inches.
Waist 30 inches.
Hips 45 inches
To Draft
up
First lay
points to the above meas-
all
urement as described
in
Systematic Out-
then continue as follows
line,
from Z is Jo inch.
2 from Y is 2/4 inches.
and from
Draw^ lines from C to
through 2 for the fashionable waist line
1
7 from
Draw
is
inches.
34
J4 inch.
is
inch.
is
is
%
'4
is
inch.
a line from 6 to
7.
10 from
to K.
5
is
is
'/(i
inch
more than
the
26
inch.
is
32
is
's
is
3 inches.
is
the
31 from 29
32 from 26
inch.
same
lenth as 29 from
26.
36 from
37 from
22
inch.
is
34
is
the
same
length as 36 from
17.
38 from
39 from
33
is
29
is
'4
inches.
same
the
length as 38 from
The
Systematic waist measure
is
4 inch-
es less than the Bust measure, in this case
located by drawing a line
from 8
to
39 less
25
is
waist measure
from 9 is 3^ inch.
from 10 is 1/^ inches.
inch.
from F is
inch.
is
from
by drawing a
is located
through 15.
inches
Systematic
the
the actual waist
measure
30 inches, the half of the

difference (2/4 inches) is to be added to
in this case
is
the dart as follows
40 from
%
%
29 from 27
30 from 28
dis-
9.
9 as represented.
12
13
14
15
16
drawîng a line from
32.
tance from 4 to
1 1
by
located
34-26.
inch.
8 is the half-way between 6 and 4, or

make the width to style or taste.
9 from 4 is
from
is
through 27.
33 from 30 is 3*4 inches.

34 from R is the same width as L to 8.
35 from 34 is '4 inch for seams.
as represented.
3 from C
4 from 3
5 from D
6 from O
28
from 14
line
31
is
2' 2
inches.
41 from 26
is
the
same
from 26.
42 from 33
is
'
>
inch
length as 32 from
more
than 40 from
31.
17 from 15
18 from 8
19 from 6 is
/2 inch.
20 from
21 from
is
is
inch.
;'/K
inch.
/4
the
43 from
The
inch.
from
is
frorn,_.l6 is
same length
as
from
P.
same
the
length as 38 from
Systematic
39 plus
20,
add
Hip measure
inch
the Bust measure, in this
case
is
40 inches, the
to this the
same
es the half
inch.
from 2 is 2 inches.
from 25 is Ij inches on line drawn
- 2.
from 25 parallel wîth line
1
Compare
actual
as
20 plus 2'2
Hip measure.
this
it
is
is
40 from
22'2 inch-
vvith the half of
22/2
Hip measure
is
half of this is
31, in this case
34 inch.
I
is
more than
22
23
24
25
26
41
32.
(2234);
if
there
is
the
any
off by smallbe added by larger hi.j at

points 36, 37, 10 and 13 equally divided.
Finish the diagram as represented.
difference,
er hip,
and
it
has to be taken
to
Semi-Fitting French
Seam
For Stout or Maternity Sixes
109
no
Waist
Shirt
First lay
up
all
as
described in
then
1
from Z
2 from
is '/2
is
Draw
3 from C
is
4 from
is
is
inch.
2'^ inches.
lines
from C
to
and from
4 inches.
Draw lines between 3-4 and 5

is
7 from 4
is
Draw
is
as represented.
2 inches.
inch.
lines
A-6-7 for
tight-fitting back-,
and
for loose
back draw
line
from
to 7.
the center of F-M.
9 from 8
is '/2
10 from 8
1 1
from
12
is
is
inch.
is '/2
1 is
inch.
4 inches.
the center of 1-11.
13 from 12
14
2 for the fashionable waist line as represented.
to
located by a line squared up from D.
6 from C
inches.
is 2'/2
inches.

Finish front
The back
X through E and is from E
the
same
length as 5 from E.
and back as represented.
center for tight-fitting back
is
A-6-7 and for gathering the back at the waist
allow fulness in the waist by drawing a line from
A to
as.
represented.
Shirt
Waist
III
112
Waist with Side Gore
Shirt
First lay
up
all
points to
in
Systematical Outline then continue
as follows:
from
is '/2
2 from
is
Draw
3 from C
4 from
5
is
inch,
2'^ inches.
lines
from
is
inches.
1 is
inches.
to 1
and from
to
located by a line squared up from D.
6 from C
8 from
1%
is
9 from 8
2 inches.
is
7 from 3
inches.
is 1 '/4
is '/2
inches.
inch.
10 from 6
is
inch
more than
the space from
11 from 7
is
inch
more than
the space from 6 to 10.
12
is
to K.
located by shaping the line from 9 to 10,

13 from 10
14 from 11
1
5 from F
IG from
is
1 is
Draw
17 from 16
18 from
19
is
is
inch.
Wz
inches and
is
from 13 the sams length as 11 from 10
% inch.
% inch.
line
is
1 is 1
from 15
to 16.
inch.
inch.
the centre of 17-18.
20 from 19
21
is
is
ts 2'/2
inches.

Finish the side gore
and
through E, and
front as represented.
is
from E the same length as 5 from
Shirt
Waist with Side Gore
113
114
Tight- Fitting Waist Lining

up
First lay
all
points to
measure
as described in Systematical Outline, then
continue
as follows:
1
from Z
is
'/2
is
2'^ inches.
2 from
Draw
inch.
lines
from
to
and from
through 2 for the fashionable waist line as
represented.
3 from
is
4 inches.
4 from
is
is
Draw
6 from C
7 from 3
is
inches.

lines
2 inches.
is
is
up from D.
between 3-4 and 5 as represented.
inch.
the centre of F-M.
9 from 8
1 1
from
12
is
% inch.
% inch.
is
10 from 8
is
1 is
inches.
the centre of 1-11.
13 from 12
is
2'/2 inches.
Finish back part as represented:
14 from 2
15
is
16 from
is
17 from 16
18
is
1%
is
inches.
is
IVz inches on line drawn parallel with line 1-2.
is
l'/4
20 from 18
is
2%
inches.
21 from 17
is
the
same length
is
14.
located by drawing a line from 17 parallel with line
19 from 18
22
E through
3'^ inches.
El 4.
inches.
as 19 from 17.
located by drawing a line from 19 parallel with line 14-15.
23 from 22
is
24 from 15
is
4%
inches.
Ye inch.
Finish the front
and back
as represented.
Tight-Fitting
Waist Lining
115
116
Tight- Fitting Waist Lining with Side Gore

First lay
up
all
points to
in
Systematical Outline, then continue
as follows:
1 from
2 from
is '/2
is
Draw
inch.
2 V2 inches.
lines
from
to 1
and from
represented.
5 is located by a line squared up from D.
Draw lines between 3-4 and 5 as represented.
7 from 3
is
1%
inch.

9 from 8 is Yz inch.
10 from 6 is 1 inch more than the distance from A to K.
1 1
from 7 is 1 inch more than the distance from 6 to 10.
12 is located by shaping a line from 9 to 10.
Finish back part as represented.
from 10 is % inch.
from 11 is IV2 inches, and is from 13 the same length as
from F is
inch,
from 1 is
inch.
Draw line from 15 to 16.
19 is the centre of 17-18.
20 from 19 is 2'/2 inches.
22 is located by drawing a line from E through 21.
23 from Gis 3!4 inches.
24 is located by drawing a line through 26 parallel with line
25 is located by drawing a line from 24 through 26.
13
14
15
16
1 1
%
%
2G is the centre of 24-25.

27 is the centre of 24-26.
29 from 28 is Vs inch.
30 from 28 is % inches.
31
is
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
from 31
line
from 27 parallel with
30
is 1
from
from
from
from
from
is
29
21.
IVi inches.
inch less than the distance from
32
33
line
inch
more than
is
'^
is
2 inches.
1-2.
to
K.
the distance from
26 is the same length as 33 from 26.

34 is 2'^ inches.
22 is Ys inch.
Shape front and side gore as represented.
30
to 33.
from 10.
Tight-Fitting
Waist Lining with Side Gore
17
118
Sleeve Construction for Waist

1
Draw
2 from
Square a
3 from
1 to 2.
the sleeve length measure.
1 is
line
up from
a quarter of the
1 is
2.
full
bust measure on a line squared
is
the centre of 1-2.
is
located by a line squared up from 5.
is
the centre of 2-4.
is
the centre of 1-3.
Square out a
9 from 8
1.
from
line
2 inches.
is
10 from 8
1 1
up from
located by a line squared out from 3 as represented.
is
lines
12
is
13
is
the centre of 3-10.
inch.
inch.
16 from 3
is '/a
17 from 3
is '/a inch.
18 from 6
is
2 inches.
19 from 5
is
3 inches.
20 from
is
2 inches.
Draw a
line
from 4 through 20.
2 1 from 20
is
1 inch.
22 from 20
is
1 inch.
23 from 4
is '/a
24 from 21
Draw
3.
IV2 inches.
is
15 from 13is%
1.
between 11-10 and from 10 through
the centre of 10-11.
14 from 12
as 8 from
2 inches.
1 is
Draw
same length
the
is
is
inch.
Vi inch.
all
Sleeve for Waist

First
lay
up
all
points
to
in Sleeve
Construction
then continue as follows:
Shape the top sleeve as represented dy
Shape the under sleeve
lines
between 11-10-17-18-4-22-5-11.
as represented by lines
between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9.
for
waist
JHE AMERICAN
DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Sleeve Construction for Waist
Sleeve for Waist
119
120
One
Piece Sleeve
Bishop Sleeve
Place the top- and under sleeves together at
should over lap
-'4
One
off,
the
and
back seam
so,
that
they
Piece Sleeve
Place the top- and under sleeves together at the back seam
should overlap
The
'4
Cuff
inch for
is
takmg the seams
off,
and
represented by heavy, broken
so,
that
they
finish the sleeve as represented.
lines.
One
Piece Sleeve
Bishop Sleeve
One
Piece Sleeve
121
122
One
First
make
a Bishop Sleeve as described on page
A-B. Draw a straight
is
from
from
D is
F from D
is
from
line
the center between

is
Piece Tight Sleeve
and
20 and then continue as follows
to B.
B.
the sleeve length measure (inside seam) en line squared

the half wrist
the
same
as
measure plus
E from D on
's
line
down from
C.
inch for a seam on line squared out from D.
drawn from E through D.
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
First
A-B-C-D
E-F
is
is
make One
arm
Piece Tight Sleeve as described above and then continue
as
fellows
about the middle of the under-sleeve.

so, that
B-C should be placed
at
to
E-F and place the piece B-C-E-F on the other side
A-D
accordingly the notches, and mark over the
of the sleeve
new
sleeve
as represented.
By using
this
kind of a sleeve be careful th
correspond with the seam of the sleeve.
it
the
side
seem
of
the
garment should
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
arm
123
124
B
C
from
is
from
from B
is
as represented.
'4
inch for two seams.
3 inches.
is
3 inches
is
on
the center of line
from E
is
is
from
from F
from
squared up from
B.
to E.
inch.
'4
inch.
'4
''4
is
line
drawn from D
"4 inch.
is
J from B
measure plus
the center of A-B.
G
H
the half neck
is
is
inch.
inch.
'4
Shape the Collar as represented.

Line
A-C
is
the back center.
High Standing Collar
A. Square both ways from A.
from
is
the half neck measure plus
C from A is
D from B is
E from D is
3 inches
'4
inch.
F from B
'4
inch.
from
is
is
's
inch fcr one seam.
3 inches.
'4
on
line
squared up from
B.
inch.
Fold the paper on
Shape the
line E-F,
which
collar as represented.
is
the front center.
125
126
Dutch Collar
Diagram
Lay the Front and Back together

lap
off
and
at the
shoulder
so,
that
they
should over
finish the collar as represented.
Norman
Collar
Diagram 2
Lay
lap
A
B
C
'4
the Front
inch for
and Back together
taking the seams
off
at the
is
the neck point.
is
the point where the collar should end.
from
is
from
is
shoulder
so, that
and continue as follows
they
should
a straight line drawn parallel with the front center of the garment
the
same lehgth
as
over
and
B from A.
Sailor Collar
Diagram 2
Lay
lap
'4
the Front
and Back together
at the
shoulder
so,
that
they
inch for taking the seams off and finish the collar as represented.
should
over
Collars for
DIAGRAM
127
Waist
DIAGRAM
/
/
.-^
/'
128
Yoke
To produce
they
should
overlap
Yoke
4
lay the
inch
back and front together
for
figuring
the
seams
at the
off,
shoulder
and
finish
that
so,
the
Yoke
as represented.
Shield
To produce
that
a Shield lay the back and
they should overlap
as represented.
\^
inch
for
figuring
front
the
together
seams
off,
at
the
and
shoulder
so,
finish the shield
Yoke
Shield
129
30
Waist with Kimono or Butterfly Sleeves
up
First lay
Z
Y
from
2 from
is
is
7 from
a line
10 from
is
12 from
',s
is
as
is
line
from
on
line
drawn from
squared up from
inch.
the center between

5 is
15 from
12
6.
through L.
full
length of a regular 36 size
the width of sleeve desired on line squared
is
through
8.
the sleeve length desired. (For the
14 from
drawn from
7.
inch on line
sleeve for regular 36 size
13
same length
on
/o
is
5 to
a line from 3 to
is
11 from 9
from
inches.
the
5 is
Draw
9 from 8
to 2.
between F and M.
is 2J'4
8 from L
and
'4 inch.
is
to
2 inches.
Draw
6 from
the fashionable waist line from
is
the center
5 from 4
points as described in Systematic Outline, then continue as follows;
2*4 inches.
is
Draw
3 from
all
inch.
'
2 inches,
and
1.
is
12.
drawn from
14 through 12.
16 from
17 from
R
U
is
inch.
'
1;
'4 inch.
is
18 from 16
is
the
same length
19 from
is
the
same width
20
is
18
as
from 9 on
as 12 from
line
on
drawn from
line
squared
6 through
down from
7.
18.
the center between 18 and 19.
21 from
5 is
22 from
21
23 from E
the
is
is
same length
the
the
as 14 from
same length
same length
Finish the front
as 15
5.
from 14 on
as 2 from
as represented.
E on
line
line
drawn from
drawn from
29 '2 inches.)
(By a
inch on line
is '2
6 inches.
is
more
down from
21 through 19.
through E.
full
length
Waist with Kimono or Butterfly Sleeves
^23_
131
32
One
and cut out
First draft
then continue as follow^s
Lay together the
Piece Butterfly Waist
a waist pattern with
and back
front
-2-3-4-5-6-7-1
IS
at the
mark
inch for taking the seams off and

i
kimono
sleeves as described on
page
30,
shoulder seam
so, that
they should
overlap
'4
the wâist from one piece.
the front.
8-9-10-11-12-13-14-8
IS
the back.
Waist with Raglan Sleeve
To produce
mark
this pattern, first
a waist with
described above, then continue as follows
15
is
16 from
1
7 from
15
1
5 is
18 from 4
19 from
is
is
'4
the
same
2 inches,
is
the
more
inch,
as
more
same
as
Shape the seams from
20 from
16
is
the
21 from
7 is
same way
the
from one piece as
sleeves
8.
6 from
or less accorcingly style or taste.
8 from
1
4.
6 to 18 and from
same length
ingly fulness desired
Kimono
7 to 19
as the shaped line
accordingly style or taste as represented.
is
from
is
from
6 to 18 and
is
shaped inside accord-
under the arm.
same length
as the
shaped
line
7 to
19
and
is
shaped
inside
as point 20.
By
cutting out the pattern allow for
seams
at lines 16-18,
16-20, 17-19
and 17-21.
the
One
Piece Butterfly Waist
133
134
Measurement
1-1
Around
for Skirts
the waist.
2-2 Around the hips about 6 inches below the waist
3-4 Front length

1-5 Side length
6-7 Back length
till
till
till
the floor.
the
the
floor.
floor.
line.
Measurement
for Skirts
135
136
Systematic Outline for Skirts
Measurement
Waist 26 inches. Hips 42 inches,
inches. Back length 44 inches.
Front length 43
from
from B
.,
as represented.
the the half waist
is
'
measure plus
a line from
through
C and
is
6 inches.
E from D
is
the half Hips measure on line
this case 21
is
located
from F
from
'4
line
parallel with line
A-C,
in
inches.
the front length, in this case 42 inches.
is
is
squared out from E.
from the center of line
J from
drawn from
mches.
by a
is
6 inches.
longer.
from
4 inches on line squared out from B.
is
Draw
3 inches, in this case
A-G
is
the side length, in this case 43
the back length on line
drawn from
'
_,
inches.
through E.
NOTICE
NOT
In
all
Drafts
allowed.
designed
in this Systematic Outline
are seams
137
138
Two Gore
Skirt
High Waisted
First lay
as follows
all
points as
2 from
the center of H-J less
is
Systematic
Outline
for
then
continue
of line
A-G, and
Skirts,
is
2-2 inches.
6 from
is
21 '2 inches.
Connect points
7-8
is
'
inches.
2 through
divided by point
is
the center of 1-7.
5-4-6.
the center of
of
two equal
parts.
1-8.
1 1 is
located by a line squared out from
12
is
the difference between the actual half waist measure
is
is
2 inches.
is
drawn from
5 from
10
in
located by a line
is
4 from
described
the center of A-G.
1 is
up
13 from
is
inch.
Finish the skirt as represented.
9.
and the measure
Two Gore
Skirt
High Waisted
139
140
Three or Four Gore Skirt

High Waisted
The
(See page
The
draft for a tfiree or four gore skirt
is
the
same as
for a
two gore
skirt.
38.)
difference
For a two gore
is
in placing the
skirt
seams.
allow seams only on the sides, and no seam at the front
and back.
For a three gore
For a four gore
skirt
skirt
no seam on the
seams on the
front.
Seams
front, sides
at the sides
and back.
and back only.
Three or Four Gore Skirt

High Waisted
141
142
Four Gore (Panel) Skirt

First lay
up
points to
all
as described in Systematical Outline for Skirts, then
measure
from
2 from
3 from
G
H
4 from
is
3 inches.
is
3 inches.
5 inches.
is
is
5 inches.
is
the centre of 1-2.
is
the centre of D-E.
Draw
lines
between 1-3,5-6 and 2-4 as represented.
Measure the waist

actual waist
measure
is
For instance from

inches; the surplus
is
line
to
from
to
to
be taken out
and the
difference between this
measure and the
in darts at points 1-5-2 as represented.
measures 18 inches; the
5 inches. This amount
is
to
half
be taken out
actual waist
in darts.
At
measure
is
13
the front (point 1)
take out the least and at the side (point 5) take out the most.
In this case take out at point 1 a half inch, at point 2
and
two inches, and
at point
half inches as represented.
NOTICE: No seams
Allow
for all
seams.
or turning-in
is
allowed for
in this
Systematical Outline.
5 two
143
144
Five Gore Skirt
First lay
up
all
points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline, then continue
as follows
1
from
is
3 inches.
is
the center
3 from
4 from
J is
is
between
5} 2 inches.
and G.
(Twice as
-A
less
and
is
the center between 3
is
located by drawing a line from 2 to
to
inch.)
3 inches.
The
^j,
difference
be taken out
4.
between the actual
in darts as follows
For instance
Take out
inch
\_i
inches
at
is
half waist
is
2^4 inches.
8 from
is
2/4 inches.
9 from
7 is
'4
on
line
of line
A-G
is
point
out.
equal divided on both sides, and
equal divided on both sides.
7 from 2
measure and the measure
be taken
to
point
5.
squared up from
7.
10 from 8
is
'4
inch on line squared out from
11 from 6
is
'4
inch.
8.
4'j
inches
at
Five Gore Skirt
145
146
Gore
Six
First lay
up
BHI Skirt
points to measure as described in Systematic
all
Skirts,
then
half
actual
2 inches
equal
Outline for
continue as follows
from
is
3 inches.
3 from
is
the
is
same
as
the center between
4 from
5 from
J is
6 from 4
is
twice as
the
is
same
and
much
as 4
3.
as
from
less '^ inch, in this case 5'
At the
is
to
1-4, 2-6, 3-5.
be taken out
in darts at
front take out the least
For istance
Take out
point
at
inches
1
inches.
inches.
difference betviêen the measure of the waist line from
waist measure
from H.
the center between 4 and 5 less
Draw^ lines between
The
from A.
is
and
at
points 1,2,
to
and the
3.
the side take out the most dart.
the difference.
'
_>
inch, at
divided on both sides.

point 2
'
inches, at point 3
Six Gore Skirt
147
148
Seven Gore Skirt
First lay
up
points to
all
in
Systematical Outline for Skirts, then
1
from
2 from
3
is
A
1
3 inches.
is
is
one-third of the line from 1 to G.
the centre between 2 and G.
4 from
5 inches.
is
5 from 4
is
6 from 5
is
1 inch less
1
Draw
then one-third of 4-5.
inch less than the half-way between 5 and
lines
Measure the waist

actual waist
J.
between l-4,2-5and 3-6 as represented.
measure
is
For instance from

inches; the surplus
is
line
to
from
to
to
be taken out
and the
difference between this
in darts at points
measure and the
measures 18 inches; the half actual waist measure
5 inches. This amount
is
to
be taken out
in darts.
At the
is
13
front (point 1)
take out the least and at the side (point 5) take out the most.
In this case take out at point 1 a half inch, at point 2 two inches,
and
and
at point
half inches as represented.
NOTICE: No seams
Allow
for all
seams.
or turning-in
is
allowed for
in this
Systematical Outline.
two
Seven Gore Skirt
149
150
9 Gore Flare Skirt
up
First lay
1
from
2'
is
all
inches.
2-3-4 are located by dividing the waist line from
5 from
6 from
J is
twice as
is
about 2'
much
as
from
less
Jô
between
lines
Measure the waist

actual half waist
G of
four parts.
inches.
7-8-9 are located by dividing the bottom line from
Draw
to
inch, in this case 4^4 inches.
1-5, 2-7,
from
line
to
6 of four parts.
and the difference between
measure
is
to
be taken out
to
is
For instance from
5 to
3-8 4-9.
18 inches
this
measure and the
in darts at points 1,2, 3, 4.
the actual half waist measure
is
inches,
is
surplus 5 inches.
This
inches
is
to
be taken out
in darts
the most. In this case take out at point

1^4 inches, at point 4
For making the

taste,
at the front take
'4 inch, at
flares place points 10, 11,12,
and allow fulness
out the least and at the side
point 2
'4
inches, at point 3
inches equal divided on both sides.
'4
at the
3 as
high desired accorcingly style or
bottom towards the back always more and
the front.
For instance
14 from
5 is
15 from
5 is
inch.
16 from
7 is
inch.
7 from
7 is
'
inch.
/^ inches.
18 from 8
is
19 from 8
is
2 inches.
20 from 9
is
2 inches.
21 from 9
is
2*2 inches.
if
inches.
you wish
22 from
23 from
is
is
Make
flaring at the
back and a
slit,
proceed as follows
3 inches.
in this case 3 inches.
the
slit
about
'
inches wide and finish the draft as represented.
less
towards
9 Gore Flare
Skirt
15!
152
1 1
First lay
up
all
Gore Flounce
points as
Skirt
Systematic Outline
described in
for
Skirts,
then
continue as follows
1
from
is
2 inches.
2, 3, 4,
5 are located by dividing the waist
6 from
7 from
J is 2}-i
8, 9, 10,
is
line
from
to
of five parts.
3*2 inches.
inches.
11 are located by dividing the bottom from 6 to 7 of
Draw
lines
between
Measure up the
1-6, 2-8,
v^âist line
3-9 4-10, 5-11.
from
to
measure and the half actual waist measure

12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17,
18
Cut out the flounce
Allow fulness
are located
G
is
and the
to
be taken out
one
between
this
in darts as represented.
of the flounce.
piece.
bottom of the flounce towards the back always more as
represented by the shaded hues and cut out the

represented by double
difference
by marking the hight
(18-! 2-H-J-18) in
at the
five parts.
lines.
new
flounce from
one piece as
11
Gore Flounce
Skirt
153
54
13 Gore Plaited Skirt
up
First lay
continue as follows
is
2, 3, 4, 5,
from
7 from
8 from
J is
then
by dividing the waist
much
as
line
is
from
to
of six equal parts.
from A.
inches.
six equal parts.
13 are located by dividing the bottom of
9, 10, 11, 12,
Connect points
The
more
are located
3 inches, or twice as
is
Skirts,
for
inches,
.,
Systematic Outline
points as described in
all
difference
waist line from
1-7, 2-9, 3-10, 4-1
between the actual
to
is
to
5-1 2, 6-1 3 for
half waist
be taken out
in darts
the side seams.
measure and the measure of the

divided at points
2, 3, 4, 5,
as represented.
By applying an
14 from
15 from
J is
inverted plait in the back proceed as follows;
3 inches.
is
6 inches.
Fold your paper at line G-J
till
line 14-15
the plait should not be short at the waist
Allow
at the top
plaits at
'
and
trace over the waist
inches,
and
that
line.
each side of the gores as deep

at the bottom 2
Finish the skirt as represented.
line,
'
plaits
desired.
inches on each side.
For instance
13 Gore Plaited Skirt
155
156
Circular Skirt
A. Draw a
straight-line as
the half waist measure.
from B
is
6 inches.
from
is
E from D
is
is
is
2 inches.
inch on line square
D.
pivoting at E, and
line
sweeped from
B,
located
by a
line
sweeped from
C, pivoting at E,
is
the front length.
is
the back length.
the side length,
is
and
is
from
about 2 inches
Circular Skirt with
First draft a Circular Skirt as

is
is
from
B the
from
the
half
Waist measure.
half
Hip
measure
the center of B-F.
4 from
is
and
inch.
from B
is
down from
by a
2 from F
3
located
plus
1
to
is
from
from
B
C
6 from
5 is
line
from
less
One Dart
3 to 4.
inch.
is
the half of fulness to be taken out.
8 from 4
is
the
same
as 7 from
4.
Cut out the fulness between 8-6-7, and join together

dart at the waist line as represented
1-2.
described above, then continue on the same draft as follows:
7 from 4
NOTICE
than from the middle of
On
this draft
by points
are seams
lines 6-7 with 6-8 to
3-6-3.
NOT
allowed.
produce
tlie
Circular Skirt
Circular Skirt with
One Dart
157
58
Circular Skirt in Gores
First
draw
Allow
bottom width
line
down
a plain skirt in gores as
at the
bottom
to
each gore
of the Systematical Outline
to the
less
gores desired.
fulness
is,
as
and draw
much more
desired than the
straight lines
from
the
hip
bottom as represented.
That the fulness should

back and
many
towards the
front.
fall
nicely, allow
always more fulness towards the
159
160
Princess Skirt
This draft represents a seven gore princess
up
First lay
follows
1
from
all
skirt.
points as described in Systematic Outline for Skirts, then continue
as
inches.
is 3
2 and 3 are located by dividing the waist
4 from
5 from
J is
twice as
is
2'
much
as
from
from
line
less
'
to
8-9-10 are located by drawing lines from
to 5 of three
to 4, 2 to 6, 3 to
11-12-13-14-15-16 are located by taking out darts
at points
pages.
17-18-19-20 are the center
22 from
23 from
of each gore at the hip line.
the girdle as high desired.
For instance
21 from
is
is
is
3 inches.
of three equal parts.
inches.
6 and 7 are located by dividing the bottom from 4
Make
inch.
'
inches.
3'j inches.
24
is
located
by drawing a
25
is
located
by drawing
26
is
located by drawing a line from 18 through
line
a line
from 18 through
from
through
12.
I
3.
27
is
28
is
located
by drawing
29
is
located
by drawing a
a line
line
from 19 through
from 20 through
15.
1
6.
equal parts.
7.
1,2
3,
as described
on previous
JHE AMERICAN
DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Princess Skirt
]6I
162
Systematic Outline for Skirts with fixed bottom width
First lay
up
all
points to measure as described in Systemati; Outline for Skirts (page

1
from
is
is
is
by drawing a
the
5 from
is
3 is
7 from 6
is
same
a line
line
from
as 2 from
on
through E.
line
drawn from
through E.
is
from 4 through
3.
6 inches.
the center
Draw
the center between A-G.
Draw
36),
the fixed bottom width.
is
located
3 from
between D-E.
a line
the
from 6 through
same
as
E from
5.
6 on line
Measure the back length from 8
through
to
and
5.
7.
finish the waist
and bottom
This Systematic outline can be used to produce Circular Skirts too.
lines as represented.
163
Systematic Outline for Skirts with fixed bottom width
164
Skirt for Stout
Measurement
Measures
Front length 40 inches.
Side length 39 inches.
Waist 40 inches.
Hips 50 inches.
Back length 38 inches.
To Draft
A. Square both ways from A as represented.
B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches,
C from B is 2 inches on line squared out from B.
Draw a line from A through C.
from
E from D
is
is
in this case
23 inches.
6 inches.
the half hip measure, in this case 25 inches on line
drawn from
parallel
with
this
case
hne A-C.
is
located by a line sqared out from E.
G
H
from F is I4 inches.
from A is the front length measure, in this case 40 inches.
side length, in this case 39 inches.
1 from the middle of line A-G is the
from G the back length,
J is located by drawing a Hne from G through E and is
I
in
38 inches.
This diagram represents for instant a
five
gore stout
skirt.
1 from A is
and G.
2 is the center between
3 from H is twice as much as from A less 2 inch, in this case 7' j inches.
4 is the center between 3 and J.
Draw lines from to 3 and from 2 to 4.
The difference between the measure of the waist line from A to G and the
and I as represented.
waist measure is to be taken out in Darts at points
Note that the front dart by stout skirts is larger then by normal skirts.
To make wider the bottom, allow fulness at points 3 and 4.
Bear in mind that fulness is to be allowed towards the back always more.
the width desired for the front panel, in this case 4 inches.
I
'
half
actual
5
6
7
8
For instance
from 3 is
j inches.
from 3 is /4 inches.
from 4 is 234 inches.
from 4 is 2/2 inches.
Draw lines from the hip
1
'
line to points 5, 6,
7,
8 and finish the draft as represented.
THEAMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Skirt for Stout
Measurement
165
166
Princess Slip
First cut out a tight-fitting
or a semi-fitting garment
till
the hip line, then
mark each gore
seperate on a piece of paper as represented.
This
A-B,
CD,
a tight-fitting french
is
E-F,
G H,
IJ
is
K-L, M-N, O-P, Q-R, S-T
To
is
2 from
is
3 from E
is
'
4 from F
is
'4 inch.
G is
5 from
Draw
from
S,
from
'
'
is
the hip
line.
down proceed
as follows
inch.
inch.
inch.
inch.
lines
from
through K, from B through L, from
through O, from 4 through P, from

J
slip.
the waist line.
continue the lines from the hip line
from
seam princess
through T.
Finish the length as desired.
through Q, from
through M, from 2 through N,
through R. from
through
Princess Slip
167
168
This System
It
is
taught by the author only.
has been copyrighted, and any infringement
contested.
will
be
legally
PART TWO
MISSES'
GARMENTS
!70
The System
Garments;
it is
for Misses'
Garments
is
the
same
as for
only constructed, by special measurement.
Womans'

For Misses* Sizes
SIZE
(AGE)
171
172
For Misses' Garments
Measurement
Waist 24 inches.
Hips 39 inches.
Scye depth 7 inches.
Back waist-length
5 inches.
Sleeve I7'> inches.
Bust 37 inches.
To Draft
A. Draw a
from
straight line as
from
Square out from
to D.
the Scye depth measure, in this
is
from
the Back
is
in this case
Dfrom C
B
and from
from
for the Bust line,
G
H
I
the
for
the
is
case 22'
in this
E.
is
E and
F.
is
the half-way between B and

is
'
K from A
to
H,
E, F,
and
is
is
locatated
M from H
is
as represented.
by drawing a
line
from
to
J.
and N.
by drawing a
located
from
line
3*4 inches.
is
from S
is
from
Cut
'4
inches less than the
distance
inch more than
distance
to R.
is
on
line
the point
off
from S
is
the
drawn from
at
of
R
's
through
inch
as
2 inches. Connect U-V.
is
2 inches.
Square out
inches.
"4 inch.
is
from
from
'4i
2 inches.
W from R
the half of the distance
in this case 2
drawn from L
inch on line
represented.
repre-
as
2'4 inches.
Square out from
is
T.
V
is
'
from L to
F.]
sented.
1
6's inches.
in this case
is
inches always.
Square out from
as represented.
through Q.
inches.
B and
inch less than the Scye depth
's
waist
measure and 4
Bust
half
J from
is
Q from
repre-
as
for the hip line
is
from
from
S from
from B
inches more,
from
for the top line,
sented.
is
through N.
6 inches always.
is
Square out from
line
measure,
waist-length
5 inches.
measure,
case 7 inches.
from
from
from
is
is
is
'4
froin
inch
W as represented.
more than
to K, in this case
located
by
the
distance
3'x inches.
a line squared out
from
E.
located by a line squared out from F.
Notice
In all
of
Diagrams
designed in this Systematical Outline
arc seasn-aliowance-s
inch allowed.
is the half Waist measdesigned in this Systen'aticai Outline

!n all Diagrams
ure 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. (See Waist Suppression on page 1 74.)
is the half Hips measdesigned in this Systematical Outline
In all Diagrams
inch more than the half Bust measure. (See Hips Development on page 1 74.)
ure
!
173
Systematic Outline
'#
^h
^1
174
Tight Fitting French
Seam

First lay
up
all
points
your measure
to

continue as folllows
as
from
2 from
Z
Y
is
is
'
5 is
length as
26 from 6
1
'x
inch, and
P.
inch.
2'4 inches.
and from
I
represented.
is
is 's inch for seam.

Finish the back and side gores
represented.
28 from 14 is '4 inch, and
fr
13 the
length as 4 from 3.
29 from 15 is
^ inches.
30 from 2 is '4 inches.
31 IS located by drawing a ine from
1
4 from D is '4 inches.
5 from O is '4 inch.
6 from P is '4 inch.
7 is the half-way betwêen 5 and L, or make
8 from 3 is inch less than A to K.
9 is located by drawing a line from 7 to 8 as
I
represented.
inch
10 from 4
1 1 from 8
4 inch.
more than
through 30.
32 from 31 is 's inch.
33 from G is 3 '4 inches.
34 from 33 is 2 inches on
33 parallel with line 1-2.
35
from
line
13
34.
through 14.
3.
is the half-way between 9 and
and 14.
is half-way between
is
located by drawing a line from 16
through 7.
19 from 7 is Vj inch.
20 from 7 is 'a inch.
21 from 8 is inch.
22 from 8 is inch.
inch higher
24 from 7 is '.'x inch, and
from the line L-5.
16
17
18

with line E-31.
from 39 is 4 '4 inches.
from R is the same width as L to 7.
par-
is
allel
40
41
Draw a
42 from 41
Draw a
line
is
from 41
to 34.
inch for seams.
'4
line
from 42
with
parallel
line
41-34.
frc
located by drawling a line from 34 parwith line E-30.

from 35 is /4 inches.
from 35 is 2;'4 inches.
from 34 is the same length as 36 from
39
'
line
is
36
37
38
3 to 8.
'
allel
inch.
12 from 10
13 from F
4 inch.
_
14
_ _ from
4 inch.
6 the
fr
from
27 from 26
inch.
25 from
43 from
is
the
same length
as
29 from
is
1'4 inches.
the same length
as
44 from
28.
44 from 40
45 from 36
is
38.
Waist Suppression
Waist measure
by 37 Bust figure the half waist as follows: Half Bust 17' ^
By applying
this
System the
half
is
7 inches less than the half
less 7 is
II
Bust measure. For instance
'^ the half waist.
Now
change the
draft a
follows
Systematic half Waist measure
Actual half Waist measure
is
is
'
I
.)
inches.
12 inches.
hlips
by
Bust measure; in
this
There is missing y:-, inch in Waist. This

inch is to be added to the waist and
and 40.
Point 37 from 35 will be only 2 '4 inches, and point 40 from 39 is '.'4 inches.
^
.',
the
also to
the dart at points 37
Hip Development
By applying
this
System the
case the Systematic Hip measure
is
therefore the half Hip measure
is
is
half
Hip measure
is
'
.1
inch
more than
the half
19 inches. By correcting the Waist measure the
now
H j^
inches,
and as the actual
half hip
half hlip
measure
is
measure gained
also
IS:
'
-,
],<înc'i-i,
inches, there
nothing else to change at the Hip.

If
the actual half Hip measure would be for instance
points 43, 29, 21,
22 equal divided and vica
verse.
20
inches, a half inch ought to be
added
at
the
Tight Fitting French

Seam
175
76
Semi-Fitting with dart in Front

For Misses' Sizes
First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline for Misses'
Garments, then continue as follows
1 from Z is 1-2 inch.
2 from Y is 2/i inches.
and from
:
represented.
3 from
4 from
3 is /4 inch.
is
5 from D
6 from P
7 from
is
is
8 from 4
9 from 3
/o inches.
inch.
inch.
'^4
inch.
is j'4
is
inch
inch
'4
is
more than the distance from A to K.

more than the distance from 4 to 8
10 from 8
is
/o inch.
from 9
12 from 6
13 from F
14 from
is
1 1
/o inches.
34 inch.
is
is
'4
inch.
is
'4
inch.
15 is located bo drawing
a line
from
through
14.

1
7 from
18 from
19 from
is
is
Draw
20 from
and
is
from F the same length as
6 from
inch.
2 inches.
from
line
is
'
through
9.
inches.
is 3,'4
21 from 20
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
inch,
!'2
5 is
inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19
is
is
located by drawing a line from 21 parallel with line E-19.
from
frcm
from
from
from
22
24
is
Vo inch.
is
3 inches.
21
is
the
23
27
is j'^
same length
parallel with line E- 9.

1
as 24 from 21.
inch.
is 3/4 inches.
29 from 16
30 from 28
is
31 from 24
is
is
the
I
same length
as 18 from
7.
'4 inches.
the
same length
as 30 from 26.
3.
Semi-Fitting with dart in Front

For Misses' Sizes
177
78

For Misses' Sizes
up
First lay
all
points to your
meaure as described
in
Systematic Outline, then continue
as follows
from
is
'
inch.
2 from Y is 2^4 inches.

Draw lines from C
3 from C is /'o inches.
to
and from
to 2 for the fashionable waist line
as
represented.
4 from
5
6
7
8
9
10
3 is
inch.
inch.
from D is
is '4 inch.
from
from 6 is ,'4 inch.
from 4 is 3 inches more than K from A.
is located by drawing a curved line from
from 5 is '4 inch more than 8 from 4.
1
7 to
8 as represented.
11 from 8 is 3^2 inch.

12 from 10 is ^4 inches.
I
from F is y> inch.

is
from
2 inch.
from 14 is 2' 2 inches and is located by drawing a
from 4 is 's inch.
inch.
4 is
1 7 from
19 from A is the length of garment desired.
20 is located on line squared out from 19.
21 is located by drawing a line from E through 18.
is the same length as 20 from 8.
22 from
13
14
15
16
'
line
from 13 through
14,
23 from R is inch.
24 is located by a line squared down from S and
25 from 24 is /^ inch.
26 is located by drawing a line from 25 through
!
is
below the fashionable waist
2 '2 inches
and
is
the
from 26 through 25 and
is
the
line.
half of the pocket size, in this
case 3 inches.
27
is
located
6 inches.
28 from S is
by drawing a
line
full
pocket
size,
in
this
inch.
29 from G is 2 inch.
'
a line from 28 through 29,
and
is in this
case 5 inches long.
case

Fcr Misses' Sizes
179
180
Loose Box Coat

For Misses' Sizes
up
First lay
points as desca-ibed in Systematica] Outline for Misses' sizes, then continue
all
as follows
from
2 from
Z
Y
is
inches.
is 2':^
Draw
3
'2 inch.
is
from
lines
4 from
is
's
inch.
5 from
3 is
's;
inch.
inch
6 from
is
'.^
7 from 6
is
8 from C
is
is
10 from L
is
9 from
from
12 from
1 1
13 from
14
is
16 from 4
17
is
more than
F.
nch.
'
I
nch.
'
_;
a line from
E through
12.
the length of garment desired.
by a
line
squared out frorh
19 from
the
7 is
I
is
Allow
3.
'o inch.
is
is
from
same length
as
from
located by a line squeired out from
18 from
nch.
'4
is
14
and from
nch.
'
located
15 from
nch.
'4
is
to
inches.
'_|
is
Draw
way between F and M.
the half
for
'
5.
3.
inches.
inch.
buiton stand 3 inches for single breasted, 4 inches for double breasted.

If
center.
you wish
to
have the back center without any seam, take
off
's
inch
at
the
back
JTH E
AMERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
Loose Box Coat

For Misses' Sizes
181
82
Blouse
For Misses' Sizes
First lay
up
all
for Misses' Sizes,
points to your
from
is
,'2
2 from
is
2*4 inches.
Draw
in
Systematic
Outline
inch.
lines
from
to
and from
to 2 for the fashionable waist line
as
represented.
3 from
is
is
2 inches.
5 from 4
is
6 from
is
'4
F and M.
inch.
4 inches.
Finish the back as represented
7 from 4
is
is
located
from E.
'4
inch.
by drawing a
line
from
through E, and
is
from
the
same length as
Blouse
For Misses' Sizes
183
184
Sleeve Construction for Misses* Garments

Measurement
for size 16
Bust 37 inches.
Sleeve length (inside seam) l?'^ inches.
1
Draw
2 from
a straight line as
is
Square a
3 from
4
5
6
7
is
from
to 2.

line
up from
a quarter of the
2.
full
bust measure on line squared
is
located by a line squared out from 3 as represented.
is
the center of
is
is
the center of 2-4.
is
the center of
up from
plus
inch.
1-2.
up from
5.
i-3.
Square out a line from 8 as represented.

is 2 inches.
1 1 from
through
Draw lines between 11-10 and from
I
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
is
is
the center of 3-10.
3.
from 12 is U inch.
from 3 is I'i inches.
from 3 is 2 inch.
from 3 is J inch.
from 6 is 2 inches.
from 5 is 3 inches.
from 7 is 2 inches.
Draw a line from 4 through 20.
1
'
'
21 from 20 is
22 from 20 is
23 from 4 is
'
inch.
inch.
24 from 21 is
Draw all
'
inch.
J
inch.
Sleeve for Misses' Garments
up all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows

Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between 1-10-1 7-18-4-22-5-1 I.
Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9.
First lay
Sleeve Construction for Misses* Garments
23^;
22
185
186
Systematic Outline for Misses* Skirts
Measurement
Waist 24 inches, Hips 39 inches, Front length 40 inches,
Side length 41/2 inches. Back length 42 inches.
from
from B
as represented.
the half waist measure plus 3 inches,, in this case
is
4 inches on line squared out from
is
Draw
a line
from
through
C and
is
6 inches.
E from D
is
from
19'
is
located
from F
from
is
is
by a
1
'4
line
B.
longer.
drawn from
parallel with line A-C. in
this
case
is
sqared out from E.
inches.
from the center of
J from
inches.
inches.
line
A-G
is
the side length, in this case 41
the back length on line
drawn from
through E,
'
inches..
in this
case 42 inches.
NOTICE
In all Drafts
NOT
allowed.
designed in
this
Systematic Outline
are seams
Systematic Outline for Misses* Skirts
187
Seven Gore Skirt

For Misses' Sizes
First lay
up
all
points as described in Systematic

1
from
2 from
3
is
A
1
5 from 4
6 from
is
'
is
5 is
Draw
to
G.
and G.
inches.
inch less then one-third of 4-5.

inch less than the half-way between 5 and
lines
between
Measure the waist
and the
one-third of the line from
is
skirts,
3 inches.
is
the center between 2
4 from
Outline for Misses'
-4,
line
half actual waist
2-5
from
measure
J.
and 3-6 as represented.
A
is
to
to
and the difference bet^êen
be taken out
in darts
at
this
points
measure
1-2-3
as
represented.
At
the
the front (point
most
NOTICE
I)
take out the least and at the side
dart.
No seams
Allow for
all
or turning are allowed.
seams.
(point
5)
take out
Seven Gore Skirt

For Misses' Sizes
l9
190
Collars for Misses'

for
Womens' Garments.
Garments are constructed the same way as
PART THREE
JUNIORS'
GARMENTS
192
The System
Garments;
it
is
for Juniors
Garments'
is
the
same
as for
only constructed by special measurement.
Womans'

For Juniors' Sizes
SIZE
(AGE)
193
194
Semi-Fitting French
Seam
For Juniors' Sizes
up
First lay
all
points to your measure as
described in Systematic Outline (page

1 from
2 from
72),
lines
through 2
from
to
and from
for the fashionable wâist line
as
3 from C is /i> inches.

4 from 3 is J4 inch.
5 frorr, D is inch.
6 from O is /4 inch.
7 from P is '4 inch.
1
Draw
a line from 6 to
7.
4,
or
make
9 from 4 is inch more than the distance

from A to K.
10 from 5 is '4 inch more than the distance
I
to 9.
by drawing
located
a line
from 8
to
as represented.
12
13
14
15
16
from 9
from
from F
from
1
is
is /-o
is
is
located
P.
drawn from
line
from ^6
by drawîng a
line
from 26
as
29 from
drawîng
26.
33 from 30 is 3''4 inches.

34 from R is the same width as L to 8.
Draw a line from from 34 to 26.
35 from 34 is '4 inch for seams.
Draw a line from 35 parallel with
?4 inch.
17.
by drawing a
%
%
line
through 27.
29 from 27 is '^ inch.
30 from 28 is 's inch.
32 from 26 is the same length
is
/^ inches.
by
located
36 from
37 from
located
from
line
34-26.
inch.
through 15,
18 from 8 is
inch.
19 from b is
inch.
as
/4 inch.
same length
'
is
is
34 inch.
is
from
is
2 inch.
from 6 is
inch.
from 2 is 2 inches.
from 25 is 34 inches on
28
1 1 is
the half-way between 7 and
from 4
22
23
24
25
26
27
is
7 is the
represented.
21 from
Z is 34 inch.
Y is 2^ inches.
Draw
20 from
line
from
14
6
22
1
is
34 inch.
is
the
38 fron 33 is
39 from 29 is
'4
the
same length
as
36 from
as
38 from
inches.
same length
32.
Finish the
sented.
front
and bottom as repre-
Semi-Fitting French
For Juniors' Sizes
Seam
195
196
Loose Box Coat

For Juniors' Sizes
up
First lay
points as described in Systematic Outline
all
(page
72),
then continue as
follows:
from
2 from
Z
Y
is
'
Draw
3
is
inch.
2 Jo inches.
is
from
lines
4 from
is
5 from
is
6 from
is
inch
is
is
"4 inch.
10 from L
is
9 from
through
2 as represented.
is
12 from
is
'2 inch.
13 from
F.
inch.
a line from
Draw
from
4 inch.
through
12.
the length of garment desired.
is
located by a line sqared out from
15 from
14
16 from 4
is
inch.
from
17
and from
more than
is
is
'4 inches.
7 from 6
14
to
% inch.
% inch.
8 from C
1 1
is
the
located
by
18 from
19 from
1!
7 is
is
Allow
3,
V2 inch.
is
from
5.
a line squared out
from
13.
same length
j/4
as
inches.
inch.
for button stand 2 to 3 inches for single breasted,
and
to
4 inches for
double
breasted.

If
center.
you wish
to
have the back center without any seam, take
off
'1^
inch
at
the
back
Loose Box Coat

For Juniors' Sizes
197
198
Blouse
For Juniors' Sizes
First lay
up
all
for Misses' Sizes,
from
is
2 from
is
'
in
Systematic Outline
inch.
lU
Draw
points to your
inches.
lines
from
to
and from
to 2 for
the
fashionable waist
line
as
represented.
3 from
is
is
2 inches.
5 from 4
is
'4
6 from
is
4 inches.
F and M.
inch.
7 from 4
is
is
located
'4
inch.
by drawing a
line
from
2 from E.
through E, and
is
from
the
same length as
Blouse
For Juniors' Sizes
199
200
Sleeve Construction for Juniors' Garments

Measurement
for Size
15
Bust 35 inches.
Sleeve length (inside seam)
Draw
2 from

1
is
frorr,
is
5
6
7
8
is
located
7 inches.
to 2.
Square a
line
up from
by a
line
2.
bust measure on line squared up from

squared out from 3 as represented.
a quarter of the
full
is
the center of
is
is
the center of 2-4.
is
the center of
plus
inch.
2.
up from
5.
1-3.
Square out a line from 8 as represented.

is 2 inches.
1 1 from
Draw lines between 11-10 and from 10 through
14 from 12 is /4 inch.
15 from 3 is inch.
1 7 from 3 is /4 inch.
21 from 20 is inch.
22 from 20 is inch.
23 from 4 is /^ inch.
1
3,
'
Draw
all
contruction lines as represented.
Sleeve for Juniors' Garments
First lay up all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows
Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between 11-10-17-18-4-22-5-1 1.
Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines between 9-16-18-23-24-19-9-
Sleeve Construction for Juniors^ Garments
Sleeve for Juniors' Garments
23f*J
201
202
Juniors' Five
Gore Skirt
Measurement
Waist 24/^ inches. Hips 37 inches, Front length 36 inches.
Side length 37 inches. Back length 37 inches.

B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches, in this case 15'4 inches.
Draw a line from A through C and longer.
D from A is 6 inches.
E from D is the half Hips measure on line drawn from D parallel with line A-C,
G from F
H from A
I
in
this
case
18/2 inches.
is located by a line squared out from E.
is
is
inches.
from the center of line A-G is the side length, in this case 37 inches.
G is the back length on line drawn from G through E, in this ceise 37 inches.
J from
1 from A is 3 inches.
and G.
2 is the center between
3 from H is 3' 2 inches. (Twice as 1-A less
4 from J is 3 inches.
5 is the center between 3 and 4.
1
The
to
'2 inch.)
difference betwêen the actual half waist measure
and the measure of
line
A-G
is
at
point
be taken out in darts as follows

For instance A-G is 7 inches.
The half actual wâist measure is 12*4 inches.
:
Surplus
is
Take out
4
'2
,'4
inches.
inch at point
equal divided on both sides, and
equal divided on both sides.
7 from 2
2
8 from
is
2Js inches.
is 2! s
inches.
9 from 7
10 from 8
is
','4
is
J4 inch
from 6
is
"4 inch.
1 1
inch on line squared up from
7.
squared up from
8.
on
line
4*4
inches
Juniors' Five
Gore
Skirt
203
204
Juniors* Circular Skirt
Measurement
2 inches, Hips 37 inches, Front length 36 inches.
Side length 37 inches, Back length 37 inches.
Waist 24'

B from A is the half waist measure plus 3 inches,
Draw a line from A through C and longer.
D
E
from
from
1
8'
is
A
D
is
is
in this case
5 '4 inches.
6 inches.
drawn from
parallel with line
A-C.
in
this
case
inches.
G
H
from F is H inches.
from A is the front length, in this case 36 inches.
I from the center of line A-G is the side length, in this ens? 37 inches.
J from G is the back length on line drawn from G through h., in this case 37 inches.
1
1 from H is the fixed bottom width.

through E.
2 is located by drawing a line from
3 from 2 is the same as 2 from G on line drawn from
4 is the center between A-G.
1
Draw
a line from 4 through
through E.
3.
6 is the center between D-E.
7 from 6 is the same as E from 6 on line drawn from 6 through 5.
^
8 is located by drawîng a line from through 7.
Measure the back length from 8 to and finish the waist and bottom lines as represented.
Measure up the waist line from A to 8, and the difference between this measure and
the actual half waist measure is to be taken out in dart or darts as described on previous
1
pages.
Juniors' Circular Skirt
205
206
Collars for Juniors'

for
Womens' Garments.
Garments are constructed the same way as
PART FOUR
CHILDRENS'
GARMENTS
208
Measurement
Women,
for Children are
Misses and Juniors.
taken in the same
way
as for

For Childrens' Sizes
SIZE
(AGE)
209
210
Systematic Outline
Measurement
Waist 26 inches, Hips 35 inches,
Scye depth 3/4 inches, Back waist length 3 inches.
Breast 29 inches.
To Draft
A

B from is one third of the
ure, in this case
Cfr
from
case
is
the Scye depth
is
from
Breast meas-
is
from
is
full
inches.
9'',s
5 '4 inches. (In lack of
measure
as represented.
mesure,
the
/^ inch
is
the
case
in this
F From E
is
Q from H
the
back waist length measure.
from
I is
is
the
same
as
C from
is
the
same
as
from C,
in this
case
from D is one quarter part of line drawn

from D to I, in this case 2 '4 inches.
Draw a line from K to J.
is the center betwêen C-H.
NOTICE:
at
In
all
is
'2
inch
the center
Draw
Diagrams
from
from
is
'^4
"4 inches
is
a line from
out from
inches.
is
is
on
to
line
squared
V,
the
is
same
as
D-K on line squared
W.
is
'
s inch.
X through
Y.
designed in
this
out
2 inches.
Systematic Outline
Table of Aliquot Parts

Measure
to P.
more than
point S as represented.
from H
from U
from U.
inch seams allowed.
Breast
W from S
X
5/4 inches.
squared up from M,
line
inch.
inch, and is from S on line drawn

J is
from S through T 's inch longer than line
K-D, this 'k inch is to be taken off in corner
A.
located by a line squared out from H.
J from
a tine from
T from
line as represented.
is
inches.
'
2 inches.
the half Breast measure plus 3'^s

inches, in this case (i4!j plus 3',s) 18),s
from
is
between H-G, in this case 4' 2 inches.

R is located by a line squared up from Q.
S from R is "4 inch less than D-K, in this case
3 inches.
4 inches.
Hip
for the
inches.
'4
by a
the center betwen M-N.
Scye depth
Square out lines from C for the Breast

line, from E for the waist line and from F
Draw
more than
is
located
this
in
center of A-C.)
E from D
from L
- are
Systematic Outline
221
212
Childrens' Tight-Fitting
up
First lay
points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 0),
all

1
from E
2 from F
1'2 inches.
is
is
3 from
is
4 from
is
inches.
"4 inch less than K.

'4
inch
more than
from D.
3
from
1.
5 from
is
6 from 4
is
'2 inch.
'
inch.
is
located
by a
line
squared
down from H.
is
lacated
by a
line
squared
down from H.
is
the center between H-L.
10
is
the center
1 1
is
located
between
by a
line
12 from 10
is
^4 inch.
13 from
is
^2 inch.
14 from
10
is
15 from
16 from 8
10.
4 inch.
is j/o
5-7.
inch.
^s inch.
is
17 from P
is
inch.
18 from 9
is '4
inch.
'
19 from
21 from
inch.
''.s
inch.
7 is
20 from 8
is
'
is
Q parallel
Q through 2
Q through 2
2^2 inches on line draw^n from
22
is
located
by a
line
drawn from
23
is
located
by a
line
drawn from
24 from 23
is
's inch.
25 from 23
is
's inch.
with line X-Z.
Childrens* Tight-Fitting
213
214
Childrens* Semi-Fitting
up
First lay
all
points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 10),

1
is
from F
is
from
3 from
4 from
1^2 inches,
inches.
inch more than
is '4
/4 inch
is
5 from L
is
'4
inch.
6 from P
is
'4
inch.
more than
from D.
from
7 from 3
is 1 2
inch.
8 from 4
is
'4
inch.
9 from 6
is
'2 inch.
10 from
inch.
'4
is
1 1 is
located
squared
down from
12
down from
is
13 from
14 from
12
by a
is
is
's
line
inch.
inch.
15 from
16 from
11
is
is
'n
inch.
inch.
0.
10.
Childrens' Semi-Fitting
215
216
Childrens'
First lay
up
all
points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes (page 210),
from E
is
2 from F
is
3 from
4 from
is
5 from 2
6 from
inch.
inch
is :'4
from C.
more than 4 from
inch on line
'4
inches less than
'4
3 is
inches.
'4
is
inches.
^ ->
'
Sack Coat
3.
7 from 3
is :'4
inch.
8 from 4
is J/o
inch.
9 from
5 is
'4
10 from
7 is
'4
inch on line
'4
inch.
1 1
from S
12
is
is
inch.
located by a line
13 from
is
'4
drawn from
X through
7.
Y.
inch.
For button stand allow
Po
to 2 inches for single breasted,
breasted.
'
2^2 to 3'o inches for doubfe
Childrens'
Sack Coat
217
218
Childrens' Loose
up
First lay
all
Box Coat
points as described in Systematic Outiine for Childrens' Sizes (page 2 0),

1
from E
inch.
''4
is
2 from
is
1'2
inch.
3 from
is '4
inch.
is
the center between
5 from 4
is
6 from E
is
7 from 4
is
's
8 from 6
is
9 from S
is
10 from
's
inch.
inch
H-M.
more than
from C.
inch.
inch.
'4 inch.
is
the
full
Square out
length desired.
line
1 1 is
12
is
located
by drawing
13
is
located
by a
14 from
line
a line
from
inch above the bottom
through 6 and
is
'4
through 8 and
is
from
squared out from
line,
the
same length
and
3 to 3'^ inches for
as
from
5,
10.
3 is '4 inch.
Allow
for button stand
'o to
2 inches for single breasted
breasted.
Finish the
draft as represented.
double
Childrens* Loose
Box Coat
219
220
Sleeve Construction for Childrens' Garments

Measurement
Breast 29 inches, Sleeve length
4 inches.
To Draft
B from A is the Sleeve length (inside seam), in this case 4 inches.
C from A is one third of the full breast measure plus l^ inch, in this case (9
I
'x
plus
'
o)
lOj/s
inches.
from B
is
Draw
the
same
as
a line from
C from A on
C to D.
line
squared up from
B.
between A - B.
by a line squared up from E.
G is the center between B - D.
H from G is '4 inches on line squared out from G.
I is the center between A - C.
J from is the same as from A on line squared down from
K from is 2 inches.
L from A is 2 inches.
Draw lines from L to J and from J through C.
is the center between L - J.
N from M IS '4 inch.
is
the center
is
lacated
i.
is
the center betviêen
P from
is
from C is
from F is
Draw
S from
is
C.
'/^
inch on line
drawn from
through C.
/2 inches.
lines betvvfeen
Q R
-
D.
'2 inch.
Draw a line from S to R.

from H is
inch on line drawn from
from E is '4 inch.
inch.
from H is
from U is 2 '4 inches.
Draw lines between K
V.
inch.
D through
H.
Sleeve for Childrens' Garments

First lay ap all points to measure as described above, then continue as follows
Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between L-N-J-P-C-Q-R-D-T-U-L.
Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines K-S-R- -2-W-K.
:
Sleeve Construction for Childrens' Garments
Sleeve for Childrens' Garments
2*
H(
221
222
Tight-Fitting
Waist Lining
First lay
up
all
points to your measure as described
in
Systematic Oudine
for Childrens' Sizes, then continue as follows

1
from
is
is
1 2
inches.
H-M.
the center between
3 from
inch.
is
'/-i
is
one quarter of the waist measure
4 from
measure
is
26 inches
in this case will
less
'4
inch.
For instance the waist
be point 4 from point
(6 '2 less
^4)
5 4
inches.
5 from 2
is !H
inch.
down from
is
located
by a
line
squared
is
located
by a
line
drawn from
8 from
is
5.
parallel with line
X-Z.
2'^ inches.
Measure up the waist
line
from
to 4
and 6
to Z;
deduct from
this
the half actual waist measure plus 2-4 inches for seams, and the surplus
measure
is
to
be
taken out in dart.
For instance by drafting a size
measures 15% inches
be 15)4 inches; surplus
9 from
10 from
is
the waist line from
the half actual waist measure

is
-2
inch,
which
is
to
is
to
13 plus 2
be taken out
inch.

that
'n
seams are allowed
all
'4 for
6 to
over in this draft.
seams, will
in dart as follows:
7 is /i inch.
Remember
4 and
Tight-Fitting
Waist Lining
223
224
Waist
up
First lay
all
points to your measure as described in

1
from E
2 from
3
is
is
is
inch on line
is
'
inch.
,'4
the center between
4 from
5
is
drawn from
5 is
through
inch.
inch on line
H-M.
6 from
Systematic Outline (page 2
down from
drawn from
4.
4 thro Jgh 5.
7 from 3
is
is
inch.
9 from 8
10 from
is
IS
Draw
1 1
'
from
is
inch on line
'4
'
drawn from
7.
through
8.
inches.
a line from
down from
inches,
X through
more or
0.
less
accordingly style or taste.
10),
Waist
For Childrens Sizes
225
226
Children^' Coat Dress
First lay
up
all
points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Sizes
(page 2
0),
from
is
the
full
length desired.
Square out from
is
the center between
3 from
is
4 from E
5
is
is
as represented.
H-M.
inch.
'4
inch more than 3 from C.
located by drawing a line from 3 through 4 and
from
inch
abow
the
line
squared
is
'4
is
from 6 the same length as
out
6 from
7
is
is
is
Draw
is
inch.
8 from
'4
'4
inch.
a line from
through 8 for the front center
10 from 9
is
's
inch.
through Y.
line.
from
3.
Childrens' Coat Dress
227
228

from
is
from
from B
is
the center of
3 inches
is
J from
from
on
line
squared up from B.
drawn from
to E.
inch.
'4
U inch.
inch,
'4
is
Shape the
Line
two seams.
inch.
'4
is
is
for
inch.
'4
is
is
represented.
B.
the center of line
from F
A as
measure plus U inch
3 inches.
is
G from E
H from D
I
the half neck
is
is
the back center.

A. Square both ways from A.
B
C
from
from
A
A
is
the half neck measure plus
is
3 inches.
3 inches
from B
is
from
is
F from B
from
'4
is 'h
is /4
on
line
's
inch for one seam.
squared up from
B.
inch.
inch.
inch.
Fold the paper on
Shape the
line
E-F, which
is
the front center.


229
230
Childrens'
One
Piece Sleeve
Place the top- and under sleeves together at the
should overlap
'4
Childrens'
One
off,
and
back seam
so,
that
they
that
they
Piece Sleeve
should ovedap
The
cuff
'4
is
off,
and
back seam
so,
Childrens'
One
Piece Sleeve
Childrens'
One
Piece Sleeve
231
232
Childrens*
A-B. Draw
"4
is
from
from
is
the half wrist
F from D
is
the
the center between

is
Piece Tight Sleeve
under sleeves together
Place the top- and
should overlap
One
and
the sleeve length
same
as
off,
back seam
at the
that
so,
they
to B.
B.
measure on
measure plus
from
on
's
line
line
squared
inch for a
down from
C.
seam on line squcU-ed out from D.
drawn from E throngh D.
Childrens*
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
with seam at the middle of the under aurm
First
make One
Piece Tight Sleeve as described above and then continue as
follows
A-B-C-D
E-F
is
is
about the middle of the under sleeve.

of the sleeve so, that
mark
over the
By using
new
this
at
E-F and place the piece B-C-E-F on the other side
B-C should be
placed to
A-D
accordingly
notches,
and
sleeve as represented.
kind of a sleeve be careful that the side seam of the garment
should correspond with the seam of the sleeve.
Childrens'
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
One
Piece Tight Sleeve
Childrens*
with seam at the middle of the under arm
233
234
Collars
9 from 6
Ulster Collar
Diagram
Draw
througli 2 to 3.
a line from
3 from 2 is '4 inch more, than the width
of the back neck.
1-2.
4 from
is
dow^n from
is
5 from
down from
inches
on
line
squared
inches
on
line
squared
'4
to
3.
on
3 is the collar width as desired

squared out from 3.
7 from b is '4 inch for spring.
6 from
a line from
is
5 from
line
is
through 2
to
the
Diagram C
through 2 to 3.
3 fron 2 is '4 inch more than the width of
the back neck.
'4
inches on line squared
4 from 3 is
I
from
through
3.
is the width of collar desired

squared down from 4.
7 from 6 is ''4 inch for spring.
en
line
Shape the
stand at 5
3 is to
be stretched.
Standing Rolling Military Collar

Diagram
Draw
through 2 to 3.
a line from
3 from 2 is 4 inch more than the width
of the back neck.
line
squared
_>
the standing
1
'
Storm Collar
Diagram G
-^.
6 from 4
5
6
on
inches
1-2.
/4
collar,
which was
produced accordingly Ciagram B.
is
inches, and is the same
5 from
74
from 2.
length f;om 2 as
6 from 2 is the wîdth of the collar desired
on line draw^ from 2 through 3.
7 from 6 is J inch for spring.
is
The
Diagram F
Standing Rolling Ulster Collar
2 to
width
Standing Lay Down Collar

from two pieces
1-2-3-4
'
'4 inches.
is
5 from
Shape the collar stand
the
2.
5.
3.
width
down from
to
5.
than
back neck.
'
of the back neck.

inch.
4 from 3 is
inch.
5 from 3 is
inches.
is
6 from
Shape the collar as represented.
I
inch more
'4
is
from 4 through
more than
inch
'4
Draw
7 from 5 is the width of the collar desired

on line squared up from 5,
inch for spring.
8 from 7 is
Diagram B
2
down from

Draw
is
6 from
Shape the
1-2.
Diagram E
the shoulder point.
is
V^ inches.
2 from
4 is located by drawîng a line from 3 to
1
of the
line
3 from
and Button High Collar
Roll
a straight line from 5 to 4.

a line for the collar stand from 5
through 2
9-7-8
3.
1
Draw
Draw
'4
is the width as desired.

The outer leaf of the collar line
must be slightly stretched.

inch.
from 3 is
inch.
from 3 is
'4 inches.
is
from
from 5 is the width of the roll collar as
For producing this collar take a standing collar and cut it in three pieces.
1-2 is the bottom of the standing collar.
3-4 is the top of the standing collar.
5-6 are located by dividing the bottom of
three part.
7are produced by dividing the top line
of the collar of three parts.
Depart the pieces at points 7 and 8 so
far as much fulness you desire and finish
the collar as represented.
Allow for seams between the pieces.
Flat Collar
Diagram H
is
J^
inch for spring.
off,
desired.
put together
the shoulder so, that
inch for taking the
the collar to the shape
this collar
at
they should overlap
seams
desired.
8 from
For producing
and back
the front
and mark
'4
Collars
235
236
Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts

Measurement
Waist 26 inches, Hips 35 inches, Front length 23 inches.
Side length 23 inches, Back length 23 inches.
To Draft
as represented.
is
the half waist measure, in this case
from B
is
5 '4
from
from
is
4 inches.
from
is
the half
Draw
B
C
3 inches.
inches on line squared out from B.
a line
from
through C.
Hip measure,
in this case l7'o
inches on line
drawn from
parallel
with line A-C.
is
G
H
I
from F
is
is
\}/4
inches.
the center between
from
is
'
Finish the waist line
J from
from
from
is
is
is
G.
inch.
A-l-G
as represented.
the front length measure, in this case 23 inches.

the side length measure, in this case 23 inches.
the back length measure, in this case 23 inches on line
drawn from
through E.
Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts
237
238
Childrens' Five
First lay
up
all
Gore
Skirt
points as described in Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts
(page 236), then continue as follows

1
from
is
is
3 inches.
is
the center between
3 from
5
J is
'
l;
-G.
inches (twice as
the center betwêen 3
Draw
lines betwêen
as
from
A less
Vi inch).
L.

measure and the
much
-3
and
line
half actual waist
2-4.
from
to
measure is
G
to
and the difference between
be taken out
this
in darts as represented.
Childrens' Five
Gore
Skirt
239
240
Remember
and decreases from
and Juniors 2
that
by Childrens the Breast measure increases
size to size
inches.
inches, during
by Ladies, Misses
PART FIVE
INFANTS'
GARMENTS
242
Collars for Infants'

as for Childrens' Garments.
Garments are Constructed the same way

For Infants' Sizes
SIZE
(AGE)
243
244
Systematic Outline
For Infants' Sizes
Measurement
Breast 24 'o inches.
Scye depth
Waist 23 inches. Hips 30 '^ inches.

inches.
Back waist length
5 inches.
To Draft
B from A is one third of the full Breast measure, in this case 8,'s inches.
inch.
from B is
from C is the Scye depth measure, in this
case 5 inches. (In lack of the Scye depth
i-j,
measure
is
from
'i
inch more than the
center of A-C.)
E from D
is
the
in this case
F From E
is
back waist length measure,
from L
is
from
is
from
is
line as represented.
the half
(I2J4 plus 3
inches, in this case
's)
's
15 's
from
is
is
located
1
from
D to
Draw
is
is
'
inch
1.
a line from
to
J.
the center between C-H.
NOTICE:
to P.
more than
at point
the center
as represented.
from
is
'4
inches.
from
is
'4
inches on line
In all
Diagrams
Draw^ a line from
W from S
X
from
is
squared
out
from
is
the
is
V.
same as D-K on
line
is
'
squared
s inch.
X through
Y.
designed
in this
Systematic Outline
Table of Aliquot Parts

Measure
to
W.
out from
2 inches.
inch seams allowed.
Breast
from U.
the same as C from A.

by a line squared out from H.
J from is the same as D from C.
K from D is one quarter part of line drawn
I
a line from
inches.
the center betwen M-N.
from J is inch, and is from S on line drawn

from S through T 's inch longer than line
K-D, this 's inch is to be taken off in corner
Square out lines from C for the Breast

from E for the waist line and from F
Breast measure plus
M.
inch.
between H-G.
R is located by a line squared up from Q.
S from R is '4 inch less than D-K.
4 inches.
Hip
inches.
'4
is 'j
Q from H
line,
for the
Draw
inches.
is
located by a line squared up from
are
Systematic Outline
For Infants' Sizes
245
246
Infants*
up
First lay
all
Loose Box Coat
points as described in Systematic
Outline for Infants' Sizes (page 244),
from E
is
4 incfi.
2 from
is
'2 inch.
3 from
is
,'4
is
___^
the centerbetween
5 from 4
is
is
7 from 4
is
8 from 6
is
9 from S
is
10 from
inch more than 5 from C.
inch.
's
H-M.
inch.
''x
6 from E
inch.
'4 inch.
the
is
Square out
full
length desired.
line
from
as represented.
through 6 and
11
is
located
by drawing a
line
from
12
is
located
by drawing a
line
from
13
is
14 from
Allow
inch.
is
through 8 and
is
is
'4
inch above the bottom line.
from
the
same length
and
3 to 3' 2 inches for
as
from
5.
'4 inch.
for button stand 15
to 2 inches for single breasted
breasted.
Finish the
draft as represented.
double
Infants'
Loose Box Coat
247
248
Sleeve Construction for Infants^ Garments

Measurement
Breast
24.' o
inches, Sleeve length
inches.
To Draft
B from A is the Sleeve length (inside seam), in this case
inches.
C from A is one third of the full breast measure plus y, inch, in this
I
case (8' s plus
'
.)
8>;
inches.
from B
is
the
Draw
is
is
same
as
a line from
the center between
C from
C to D.
on
line
squared up from
B.
lacated by a line squared
up from E.
between B - D.
from G is '4 inches on line squared out from G.
I is the center between A - C.
J from I is the same as I from A on line squared down from
K from I is 2 inches.
L from A is 2 inches.
Draw lines from L to J and from J through C.
is the center between L - J.
N from M IS ,'4 inch.
G
H
is
B.
the center
1
I.
is
the center betwêen
P from O
Q from C
from F
is
is
is
Draw
S from C
is
lo
C.
inch.
inch on line
drawn from
through C.
I/2 inches.
lines
between
Q R
-
D.
/2 inch.
Draw a line from S to R.

from H is
inch on line drawn from
from E is ;'4 inch.
from H is
inch.
from U is 2 '4 inches.
Draw lines between K V.
1
D through
H.
Sleeve for Infants' Garments

First lay ap all points to measure as described above, then
continue as follows
Shape the top sleeve as represented by lines between L-N-J-P-C-Q-R-D-T-UL.
Shape the under sleeve as represented by lines K-S-R- -2-W-K.
r
Sleeve Construction for Infants' Garments
Sleeve for Infants' Garments
249
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER A ND CUTTER
250
Infants'
First lay
up
all
Coat Dress
points as described in Systematic Outline for Infants'
Garments (page 244),
from
is
the
length desired.
full
Square out from
is
the center between
3 from 2
4 from E
5
is
'4
is
is
H-M.
inch.
inch
as represented.
more than
from C.
from
is
'4
inch
abow
the line
squared out
6 from
7
is
is
is
Draw
is
inch.
8 from
,'4
located
10 from 9
is
'4
from 6 the same length as
inch.
a line from
by drawing
;',x
is
through 8 for the front center
a line from
inch.
through Y.
line.
from
3.
Infants'
Coat Dress
251
252
Infants*
One
Piece Sleeve
Place the top- and
should overlap
'4
under sleeves together
Infants'
One
off,
at the
and
back seam
so,
that
they
that
they
Piece Sleeve
should overlap
The
cuff
'4
is
off,
and
back seam so

Infants'
One
Piece Sleeve
Infants'
One
Piece Sleeve
253
254
Infants'
To produce
they should overlap
Yoke
U
lay the
inch
for
Yoke
back and front together

figuring
the
seams
at the
off,
and
shoulder
finish
that
so,
the
Yoke
as represented.
Infants' Shield
To Produce
a Shield lay the back
that they should overlap
as represented.
'4
and
front
together at
inch for figuring the earr.s
off,
c.nd
the
shonlder
finish
the
so,
Shield
Infants'
Yoke
Infants' Shield
255
256
Hood
The hood
A-B
is
inches,
from B
is
from
is
from
is
is
constructed from a cape as follows
more or
less
accordingly style or
taste.
inch less than A-B, in this case say 9 inches.
one-third of the length of line B-C, in this case say 3 inches.

1
inch.
Finish the hood as represented.
Hood
257
258
Collars for Infants'
as for Childrens' Garments.
Garments are constructed the same way
PART
SIX
GRADING
260
Art of Grading
Graduation
described as the
cutting
is
it
sized
of different
a single model,
ments from
ment
may be
number
of grading a
and
frequently a great assistance
production
This, indeed, the
the most practical
system of grading lends
Assuming
so corrected
correct
it
fit
use
produce
as
produce a
to
Revers,
been
is
the
same
gathers,
shapes,
plaits,
By no other plan
of
In the
anxious
is
embod-
a comlete set of patterns
lapels,
folds,
to
tucks,
The
diagrams the inside
sizes are in
cal
a logical and
It
and comprehensive
Juniors'
must be
in
minute
made up in different
The medium size is for
ment
is
added
size or
size, for
sizes.
If
Ladies'
Garments
Misses'
"
16
Juniors'
''
15
36 Bust
Years
20
"
19
"
"
i4
"
"
"
The amount v^fhich
deatil
"
"
Infants'
practi-
exact,
show how
"14
1
Childrens'
scientific
manufacturing every gar-
w^holesale
In
truly
lines
"
Misses'
But to attain succes the grader must have
of working.
never
size.
"
method
tabes,
are
etc.
Ladies' Garments from 32 to 44
more expedi-
at
through grading.
command
scallops,
grade a smaller size and the outside lines
shov/ to grade a larger
working can such a
desirable result be arrived
at his
as diagrams will
heading.
this
graded; regarding this use your ow^n judgment.
ying the same excellencies.
tiously than
grading
show under
with a perfection of style,
naturally follows that the cutter
to
it
itself.
alterations
combined
garment
of
style
may be tight fitting, semi-filting or loose no

matter how many pieces the pattern is cut
into, the
that a single pattern has
by
Whatever shape or
pattern
of
which the
to
10 Years
"
Infants'
in ladies gar-
to the grader.
sets, is
Childrens' Garments
art
gar-
is
taken
amount
size to
instance from 36 to 38 or vice-versa.
you
to
smaller
from
to for larger size is
v^rish to
grade for 2 sizes larger or
smaller, for instance from 36 to
have
off for
add
as
to,
resp. to take
40 than you
off
marked on diagrams.
the
double
261
Scale of Regular Stock Patterns

Showing how many inches the garment increases and decreases
from
Measures
size to size.
in
proportion
262
Grading of
Ladies' Tighth-Fitting with dart
Increases and
Decreases
for
Each Size
Grading of
Ladies' Semi-Fitting with Side Piece
263
264
Grading of
Ladies' Eton
Increases and
Decreases
for
Each Size
Grading of
Ladies' Semi-Fitting French
Increases
and
Decreases
for
Each Size
Seam
265
266
Grading of
Ladies' Tight-Fitting French
Increases and
Decreases
for
Each Size
Seam
267
Grading of
Ladies' Tight-Fitting Double French
Increases
and
Decreases
for
Each Size
Seam
268
How
to
Grade
Misses' Sizes
from Ladies' Size Patterns
Size
20
is
the
same
as size 38.
Size
is
the
same
as size 36.
Size
is
the
same
as size 34, but
Size
is
the
same
as size 32, but
'
inch shorter in the waist lengtht.

inch shorter in the waist length.
Grading of
Misses'
Increases and
and
Juniors' Tight-Fitting with dart
-269
270
Grading of
Misses'
Increases and
and
Juniors' Tighth-Fitting
French Seam
Grading of
Childrens'
and
Infants' Semi-Fitting
271
272
Grading of
Childrens*
Increases and
Decreases
for
Each Size
and
Infants'
Box Coat
273
Grading of
Ladies', Misses', Juniors', Childrens'
// ^^^^Si,
and Infants' Sleeve
274
Grading of
Cape, Yoke, Collar, Cuff
increases and Decreases for
Neck
J4,
Around
Yoke: Neck
'4,
Front
Cape
Collar:
Neck
,^4
Bust
J4,
Back
inch.
,'4
inch.
inch.
Cuff: Length on top
'
j.
on bottom
's
inch.
Each Size
Length of Garments
275
276
Skirts
PART SEVEN
SPECIAL
MEASUREMENT
278
Foundation of Garment Cutting
The method
may be
of Cutting
ways,
divided in various
may be
they
point,
two
divided into
plans,
as ocassion
it
may demand,
many
for
judgement
by
either
practical
stand-
the cutting of a special pattern for
viz,
each customer and the using of one model pattern

adapting
instance
for
as
Proportinate and Special measures system, but looked at from the
customers,
different
the
or
of
indications
special measures.
Cutting by model patterns
much may be
one of the most successful methods, and whilst
is
the
said in favor of
drafted
specially
pattern
in
it
each
for
customer, yet there are also a considerable number of arguments
To
favor of the model pattern being used as the basis of operation.
much
is
same
easier to retain the
in
style
method than from any other; and when
number
large
garment
of customers
The
own
essential
first
many methods
their
made
can be
it
smart hanging,
good-fitting,
really reliable,
can be used
it
in
all
more advantageous
in this
is
to get a
cutters
style
add
good
make
at
this
what
surprising
is
it
a very varied selection
adjusting
There
fit.
skill
it
honor
of
of
first
so
a
a
of
there are
produce
to
cutting
all
every
that
who
are others
of
and
model,
fitting
point
it
each stage by
themselves of the
to avail
way they
and what
for,
and then altering and
brought to meet their views of
and
this
Some
of doing this.
in linen
garment,
stylish
by
pattern that will produce
to produce.
models, carefully testing them
garment out
has
advanced
begin with,
produced
garments
the
all
one
individual
be
to
find
more experienced
detail
it
the
is
much
practitioners,
which would other-
are enabled to obtain the very best talent,
wise be quite beyond them.
There
are others
to test
pattern,
of sizes.
it
who
adopt a third plan, and that
by experiment, and then use
This requires some
skill,
and
if
it
is
as the basis
done well
it
ill
to
pocure
simple
for grading a full
set
produced most satisfactory
results.
The
basis.
cutter has necessarily to decide
There
purpose; but
are
in
some
who
would
vote
which
for
style
of
model he
tight-fitting jacket
view of the popularity of the semi-fitting
style
at
will
use as his
pattern for his
the present time,
who
there are those
ment and
model
Each plan has
figure.
of a jacket
Others again,
prefer that fashion.
and adapt the various
their basis,
its
advantages.
Hning
as
of
on the whole
a semi-fitting
the
gar-
which
pattern
of
produce
will
garment.
st\lish
The
Possibly,
bodice
the
requirements
about the most useful type for the cutter of the present time,
is
enabling him to cut the most fashionable style

smart,
use
parts according to the
279
principles underlaying
the
all
systems
now
in
which
all
Cutting
of
use
are
grouped under two headings.
The
Proportionate measurement.
2.
Special measurement.
Proportionate
measurement of cutting
are those in
points
of
attitude,
as
the draft are obtaned by fixed proportions of the breast circumference.

I
1.
erect,
That
it
hat
Proportionate measure system are:
does not provide for disproportion
high or low shouldered,
stooping,
2.
same
he principle disadvantages of
it
full
or
does not provide for difference
flat
in
or
variations
breasted,
in
etc.
shoulder or scye for figures of
breast measures.
That
it
leaves too
much
to the
judgement of the
and too
cutter
much
to
chance.
The
Proportionate measurement
womankind were
all
b.isis
of Cutting
would only
be
reliable
if
In such a case divisions of
of strictly proportionate formation.
the circimiference of breast would produce correct outlines.

Special measures,
they give to the cutter such confidence
their appLcation as cannot be otherwise obtained,
and
in
all
and
productive of the best possible results.

Spec.al measures help to one to judge
assurance
kinds of garments
customers form
well.
in
are
280
How
1.
Bust measure.
well
to take Special
Around
body under
the
up on shoulder blades
Around
in
back.
the
body
Measurement
the arms, over the fullest part
2.
Waist measure.
3.
Hips measure. Around the body 6 inches below the waist
4.
Lower shoulder measure. This measure

the center about 4 inches
down
Upper shoulder measure.

the center of
the
6.
Back
line,
7.
arm back
front,
and
at smallest part in waist.
the back
is
This measure
line.
found by placing the end of the
seam from the center back
the other end over the shoulder and under the

5.
in
is
arm back
of
at
neck, passing
to the starting point.
found by placing the end
back neck, passing the other end down the
tape
of
the tape at
front of shoulder
and under
to the starting point.
waist-length measure.
and continue down
From
center
back
of
neck
down
to the natural waist
to the full-length desired.
Front waist-length measure.
From
center
back
of
neck
to
the
waist
of
center
of front.
From
8.
Bust depth measure.
9.
Side waist-length measure.
center back of neck to the
From
brow
of bust.
center back of neck, over the shoulder to the waist
line at side.
For the sleeve length take the inside seam from the arm
pit
to the wrist.
How
to take Special
Measurement
281
'
282
Systematic Outline
By
Measurement
Special
Measurement
Bust 40 inches.
Back waist-length
Waist 26 inches.
Hips 4 inches.
Lower shoulder 25 inches.
Upper shoulder 25''4 inches.
Front waist-length 23'

Bust depth
Scale
Excess
inches.
length 2
1
inches.
8 inches.
in this case 12/0 inches.

Half Scale is 6^4
One-Quarter Scale is 3',x
between the Lower
difference
the
is
case
wâist
inches.
inches.
Sleeve length
'
Lower shoulder measure,
the half
is
Side
Upper shoulder measures,
and
in
thi
iJ inch.
'
To Draft
A. Draw a straight line as from
B from A is the half Scale plus
half Excess, in this case 6' 4
's
from
plus
'^
plus
plus
the back waist-length measure,
is
for the Bust line,
line
and from
for the top line,
from
from B
F from B
measure
24 inches.
rep-
plus
the half Bust
is
the Scale less
is
'
'
in this
in
inch,
this
case 12 inches.
from F
3/s
3;'s
9%
is
from
inches, in this case 6/4 plus
less 3
is
'.^
is
from A is 5 '4 inches.

Square out from E,
and
as rep-
2*4 inches.
is
is
one-quarter Scale less
Square out from
as represented.
from S
W from
resented.
J from
from
from
is
/'^
inch,
in
more than the dison line draw^n from R
inch
to
through T. Cut off the point at

inch as represented.
in
V
F,
case 8 inches-
tance from
from F 6 inches.
the half Scale less J4 inch,
case 3 '4 inches.

'-4
inches,
from S is half Scale plus
this
6 inches.
this case
I
the half Scale plus one-quarter
is
Scale less
'
from
waist
for the
for the hip line as
'
resented.
is
case 153^ inches.
from C is 6 inches.
Square out from A
% inch
located by drawing a line from A to J.

from H is 2 inches.
Square out from
as represented.
plus
N from
is half Scale
inch, in
's
this case 6 s inches.
O from N is j inch on line drawn from L
throguh N.
and N.
P is the center betwêen
Q from I is '4 inch.
R is located by drawing a line from A
through Q.
S from G is one-quarter Scale plus s inch,
to D.
together 7*4 inches.
in this
is
of
/.s
2 inches.
is
2 inches.
as represented.
Square out from
is one-quarter scale plus 's inch,
from
in this
case 3
'4
inches.
is
locared by a line squared out from E.
is
located by a line squared out from
NOTICE
disigned in this Systematic Outline are inch

seams allowed.
Systematic outline the half waist
Diagrams designed in
In
In all
Diagrams
this
all
is
measure 7 inches less than the half Bust measure. (See Waist Suppression on
page 20.)
is the half hip
designed in this Systematic Outline
In all Diagrams
measure 1 inch more than the half Bust measure. (See Hip Development on
page 20.)
'
283
Systematic Outline
By
#Y
SpecieJ
Measurement
-ih
284
Seam
By
up
First lay
as
described
all
points to your
in
Systematic
measure
Outline
(Page
Measurement
Special
Measurement
Special
for
then
282),
continue as follows
1 from R is the Side waist-length measure
'4 inches and less the width of the
plus
to L, in this case
back neck as from
I
24 from
\%
plus
19/'2
is
22;'4 less 3J4 is
from
26 from 6
27 from 26
the Front length-measure plus

inch and less the width of the back
to L, in this case 23'
neck as from
is
plus
2
3<s
24-^s
is
J'8
3 '4,
less
is
from
inches.
and from
through 2 for the fashionable waist line
1
is
is
3 from
5 from O
6 from P
Draw
is
is
% inches.
% inch.
% inch.
make
to 8
as represented.
15
is
16
is
is
18
is
more than
3 to 8.
gores as rep-
side
29 from
30 from
31
is
15
2
from 13 the
is
iVo inches.
is
I'l inches.
is
drawing
located by
through 30.
32 from 31 is
33 from R
and
as 14 from 13.
is
from
line
inch.
's
the Bust depth measure
plus
'4
16^4
less .V4,
point 33 from
is
33 is 2 inches on line drawn from

36 from 35
37 from 35
38 from 34
39
inch.
is
inch.
line
from
13
4.
is
and 4.
1
30.
is
2;H inches.
is
the
same length
located by drawing
40 from
39
41 from
Draw
as 36
from
is
is
'4
the
line
from
36
E-31.
inches.
same width
as
to
7.
a line from 41 to 34.
42 from 41
Draw a
the half-way between 9 and H.

E-
/4 inches.
parallel with line
inch.
through 7.
19 from 17 is '^ inch.
20 from 17 is j/2 inch.
inch.
21 from 18 is
inch,
22 from 18 is
23 from 15 is /i inch.
is
34.
inch.
located by drawing
through
and
inch,
'4
is
same length
parallel with line
inch for seam.
34 from
inch less than A to K.

8 from 3 is
11 from 8 is
12 from 10 is
13 from F is J4.
is
14 from
13 inche?.
is the half-way between 5 and L, or

inch
the
resented.
1 V4
%
%
2 inches.
is
ji inch higher
is
inch.
is
Finish the back
a line from 5 to 6.
10 from 4
and
inches and less the width of the back

to L, in this case 15 plus
neck as from
as represented.
4 from D
is
28 from l4
inches.
2 from
inch,
'js
21
7 is
from the line L-5.

inch, and is from
25 from 5 is
same length as O from P.
is
inch for seams.
'4
line
from 42
parallel with
line
41-34.
16
43 from 14
is
the
same length
as 29
from
28.
44 from 40
45 from 36
is
is
y^ inches.
the
same
length as 44 from
38.
Seam
By Special Measurement
285
286

By
Measurement
Special
First lay up all points to your measure as described in Systematic Outline for Special
Measurement (Page 282), then continue as follows:
1 from R is the Side waist-length measure plus
/4 inches and less the width of the back
from R 19'^ inches.
neck as from A to L, in this case 21 plus \'}4 is 22,4 less 334 is
2 from R is the Front length-measure plus > inch and less the width of the back neck
x inches.
as from A to L, in this case 23 '^ plus '^ is 24% less 3/^. is 2 from R 2
and from
Draw^ lines from C to
I
'
represented.
3 from
4 from
3 is
is
from D is
from P is
from H is
from 4 is
from 5 is
5
6
7
8
9
inches.
/'z
/4 inch.
inch.
inch.
'4
inch.
/'4
inch more than the distance from
inch
'4
more than
to K.
the distance from 4 to
8.
10 from 8
/4 inch.
is
from 9 is J/2 inchees.

12 from 6 is }4 inch.
is ''4 inch.
14 from
16 from 14 is /<> inch.
1 1
from 13 through
line
14.
17 from
18 from
19 from
is
20 from R
and
is
from F the same length as 16 from
13.
inch.
2 inches.
is
Draw
inch,
'
is
from E through
line
19.
the Bust depth measure
is
neck as from
to L, in this case
plus
34 inches
15 plus 134
is
16^4
and
less
less
3 34,
the
is
13 inches.
21 from 20
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
inches on line drawn parallel with line E-19.
13'^
is
is
located by drawing
is
located
from
from
from
from
from
22
24
by drawing
J/t.
is
3 inches.
21
is
the
is
from 21 parallel with line E-19.

from 21 parallel with line E-19.
line
line
inch.
is
23
a
a
same length
as 24 from 21.
inch.
27 is 3/4 inches.
29 from 6
30 from 28
1
31 from 24
is
is
is
the
I
'4
the
same length
as
8 from
7.
inches.
same length
as 30
from
26.
width of the back

point 20 from R

By
Special
Measurement
287
288
Systematic Outline
By
Special
Measurement
No Seam Allowances
Measurement
Back
Bust 40 inches.
Waist 26 inches.
Hips 4 inches.
Lower shoulder 25 inches.
Upper shoulder 25*4 inches.
1
Scale
'
inches.
Side waist length 2

inches.
Sleeve length 8 inches.
1
the half Lowêr shoulder measure, in this case 12'
is
Excess
waist-length
Front waist-length 23*2 inches.

Bust depth
5 inches.
is
6/^
is
3}/g
between the Lowêr
difference
the
is
Half Scale
One-Quarter Scale
Upper shoulder measures,
and
in
this
case "s inch.
To Draft
A. Draw a straight line as from A to W.
B from A is Sj-o inches on line squared up
from A.
C from B is 2 '4 inches on line squared out
from B.
Draw a line from A to C.
D from A is the half Scale plus 'is inch
plus half Excess, in this case 6J4 plus
is ZH inches.
'k
plus /s
Square out line from D as represented.

from D is the Scale less ^ inch, in this
1
2 inches.
F from D
from E
6/4 plus
3',s
from E is
Square
is
inch, in
less Jo
is 2/.s
inches.
plus
is
J from F
lines
from
%
O
is
from
to
and
M.
F.
half Scale plus 2's inches plus
is
934 inches.
from E
this case
P from N
half Scale plus
is
6'4 plus
the
is
l,',s
is
I's inches,
7%
in
inches.
same length
on line drawn from

Q from E is 2 inches.
is
1,
E,
and
half Scale plus
'
inch, in
is
J.
'
''2
is
inch on line
's
'
a line from
one-quarter
as L from
through O.
Draw
a line from
is
is
the
from
in
to
Q.
from
from
is
^-'4
Scale,
to
H.
inches.
Back waist-length measure,
15*2 inches.
the Side waist-length measure
back neck as from

is
to K.
the Front waist-length measure
back neck as from A to K.

from N is the Bust depth measure
the back neck as from A to K.
Draw lines from T to U and from U to V.

and X are located by a line squared up
from W.
less the
inch,
inches.
this case
less the
as
in
this case
inches on line squared out from N.
this
drawn from
Draw
from
S from
F,
case 6)4 plus J2 's 6^4 inches.

is one-quarter Scale less
from
from J
through
in this case 3',s less
from
a line
half Excess, in this case 6*4 plus 2'\ plus
inches.
inches.
j/2
20 plus
represented.
3',s
7J4 inches.
the half Bust measure
is
inch, in this case

I
the center between
Draw
one-quarter Scale less ^2 inch,
is
case
in this
from
the half Scale plus
is
this case
is
'
case
less
Systematic Outline
By
Special
Measurement
289
4
1.
290
Tight-Fitting Jacket
By
Special
Measure System
Seams are not allowed

(page
as described in Systematic Outline
288), then continue as follows:
1 from T is 2 inches.
'4 inches.
is
2 from
is
hips equally divided at points
to
is
7 from
is
8
9
10
is
is
through 9.
from 9 is
12 from 9 is
'2
'
_;
located by
is
through 8.
14 from 10 is
is
15 from
16 from X is ,'2
Finish both
1 7 from U is '4
I
same length
18 from X is
19 from V is
20
located
is
through
21 from
22
drawing a
12
inch.
inch.
inch.
gores as represented.
side
and
from I.
inch
from
is
the
1/2 inches.
'4 inches.
I
by drawing
is
'4
from
line
than
inch less
by drawing a
located by
is
from
line
from A.
from 2
line
H-20.
drawmg
from
a line
21
through 22.
1
from
line
1
to
and
7'4 inches.
The
this
in dart.
24 from 22
one-third of the Dart, in this

'2 inches.
case
25 from 23 is the same as 24 from 22.
26 from 24 is the Dart, in this case 4*4
inches.
through 26 and is from 2
the same
length as 24 from 2
28 from 25 is '4 inch more than 26 from 24.
Measure up the hip line from 2 to 5
is
'
14,
's
inches.
to
case
half of the actual waist measure is in
case 13 inches; there is a surplus 4'
taken out
inches, which amount is to be
to
19; the total is in this
18,
through 2.
a
line from the
middle of 3-6 through 5.
34 is located by drawing a line from the
middle of 3-6 through 7 and is the same
length from 6 as 33 from 3.
through 14.
through 15, and is from 11 the same
37 is located by drawing a line from U
through 18.
38 is located by drawing a line from )4
is
inch outside from U through 16, and
from U the same length as 37 from 1 7.
through 28 and is 1 /4 inches below 31.
40 is located by a line drawn from 24
through 25. and is from 24 the same
Allow for single breasted button stand
1

and continue 6 to
2,
16,
inch.
33
from 8
line
19.
located
is
as
inch.
inch.
parallel with line
23
32
and 4.
U and 6.
is

is the full length desired.
is located by a line squared out from 30.
a line from
1
30 from
31
inch.
inch.
the center between

the center between
located by drawing
is
1 1
13
'4
1
7.
29 from 20
6 from
and
15
is
inch less than K from A.

located by drawing a curved line from
3 as represented.
from 2 is ^,'4 inch more than 3 from
3 from
and continue 7 to 14,

5 to
18 to
6,
28 and 25 to 20. The difference between
this total and the half of the actual
hips
measure is to be added to by larger size
smaller size
hips and to be taken off by
41 from
42
The
N is
and Lapel
Collar
1
inch.
the length of the crease line desired.

41
and
a line from 42 through
longer.
is
Draw
43 from N is
44 from 43 is
'4
inch.
inches more than K from

on line drawn from 43 parallel with
line 42-41-45.
46 is located by a line squared out from
44 and make the width of collar as desired.
47 from 46 is about 2 inch for the spring
1 '4
'
of collar.

No seams or turnings - in allowed
on
this draft.
for
Tight-Fitting Jacket
By
Special
Measure System
Seams are not allowed
291
292
Taking Special Measurement

For Direct Short Measure System
(How
to
apply
this
measurement
to the
System see pages 308 and 309.)
Measurement
For Body
2-6-2
Arond
3-9-3
Around
12-12
bust
waist
Around hips
1-2
Back scye depth
1-3
Back waist length
Over shoulder
2-5-6
1-6 Front
shoulder
Front waist length
1-7
1-8 Bust
1-9
depth
Side waist length
11-11 Across chest
6-6 Across bust

6-
Sleeve length
For Skirt
Arond
3-9-3
12-12
7-1 3
waist
Around hips
Front length
9-14 Side length

9-
Back length
PART EIGHT
RIDING
AND SPORTING GARMENTS
294
Riding Skirts
In the
middle of the
last
century they were simply several
widths of material plaited into the waist and

to flow gracefully to at least
wearer. These, although

the standpoint of safety,
when
it
were not
was found
the lady had the misfortune to be
the surplus material
knock
graceful,
of twisting
which
formed
the
themselves round the
enough
long
cut
12 inches below
the
the
of
feet
from
practical, and,
death-trap
veritable
thrown from her horse;

graceful
pommel
folds
of
and the lady would be dragged along the ground
the
till
had
saddle,
she
was
kicked to death.
Then came
and
shorter,
a revolution,
and closer and
and
closer,
trains
till
were
made
shorter
they arrived at what
was
when
thought to be the utmost limit of safety,
over the
close-fitting
Experience
the
in
ladies cut out large holes
train for additional safety, whilst
cleared
the underpart from the seat
downwards
enough
at either side,
to folds
simplified
over the leg
the
improvements
from the underpart
others
quite
of the train.
suggested
hunting-field
were
they
almost cover
to
showing out from the hem
foot, the toe just
on these
and long enough
seat,
295
away,
and
and
the
of
whole
the
so
just
still
of
left
further
it.
The most important

saddle, that
is,
riding
in
come
more
is
in contact
particularly about the spot
clean
some time
the
where
with the pommel.
Such superflous material means

soreness for
skirt
there must be no wrinkels or creases under
wearer's seat or legs and

the knees
item
after
ride,
pain
and
the
to
and
rider
such superfluity
so
must be avoided.
The
can we
is
how
question
locate
to
do
if
is,
where the
fulness starts
be
how
present,
and finishes?
Well,
this
it.
Having placed the

on the
these things should
skirt
on the custumer and the cusomer
and furthermore, made sure
horse,
that
the
skirt
is
in
the right position, proceed by fittmg the upper side.
When
and the
this
front
has been accomplished, rip up the back seam
seam from
clean over the horse,
foot
thus
coarse, that you intand to do
lady
who
clad.
Once
rest
is
put the
skirt
on
the under part
to
knee,
exposing
this,
but
whether
is
and
first
the
throw
wearer.
the
of
all
exposed on the
front
of
the young
ask
customer
the
Mention,
is
interior
properly
then
the
simple.
Having
fully readjust.
fitted
the
underside replace the topside and care-
296
Side Saddle Safety Riding Skirt

Front
These diagrams represent a model
reproduced by the inch tape, will
20/2 inches side to knee and
Seams
fit
of a side saddle safety riding skirt,
a lady with 26 inches
3 inches rise
waist,
measurement.
are not allowed.
36
43 inches
which
hips.
297

Back
4t
7t
11
17
lai
22 J
In this particular skirt there is a hole for the
pommels and
is
made
like
placquette of a skirt with press studs.

If
the rider
is
thrown, these studs
being hung up on the pommel.
come
into
action
and prevent the
rider
298
Apron Riding
Skirts
To Draft
This diagram represents a model of an
Apron Riding
the inch tape, will

seat.
which reproduced by
24 waist, 40
fit a lady
Skirt,
Seam allawances
of one-quarter of an
inch are allowed.
1 1
Back
A is 2
A is 30
1
V
X
Y
B, D,
and
F,
W_;
inches.
is
to
L and K
to
M.
to
3 inches..
1
inch
between
and 6 as
represented.
Draw
lines
and from
as represented.
V-W
and W-Z.
is
V-W.
the center of
21 fom 20
22 from
1
1/4 inches.
is
is
}/)
inch.
R.
1
4 inches.
Finish waist line as represented.
20
2 inches.
6 from 5 is
Take out
as
is
2 from
is H4 inches.
3 is the center of K-M.
3
is
from
from
Continue the line T-I
from
is 14 inches.
the center of J-L,
4 from
and
G is 20 inches.
H is 3! 2 inches.
H is 6 inches.
Connect
from B is 30 inches.
from D is
inches.
O from D is 28 inches.
P from F is 5 inches.
Q from F is 5 '4 inches.
R from F is 28 inches.
S from F is 34 inches.
T from H is 50 inches.
U from H is inch.
Draw lines from J
is
12 from C is 8 inches. Connect E-12.

13 from E is 3 inches.
14 from 13 is 2J-2 inches.
16 from C is
inches.
17 from G is 10' ^ inches.
Connect 16-17.
18 from 3 is 6 inches,
inches.
from
W from
8 inches.
from C,
represented.
as represented.
is
lines
inch.
Square out
L from B
is
from S
Finish the front part as represented.
A. Draw a line as from A to

B from A is J/'o inches.
C from A is 9 inches.
inches.
D from A is
E from A is 5 inches.
F from A is 6 inches.
G from A is 23 inches.
H from A is 34 incfles.
I
from A is 5 inches.
Square out lines from A,
J from
from
the center of N-Q.

1
Front
is
8 from 7 is }4 inches.
9 is the center of T-I.
from N to Q. from T to
through S as represented.
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
is
inside
is
a button.
31
is
the edge of lining
23
is
the position
is
the place for two holes.
is
the place for
is
the inside elastic loop.
is
a tab.
is
double cloth
is
pocket.
ela.stic
inside
thigh
fastening.
for knee.
loop.
is
shown by
saddle.
dash-line.
JTHE AMERICAN DESIGNER
Apron Riding
AND CUTTER
Skirt
299
300
Hints on
One
most convenient and becoming of the
of the
Apron Riding
One
Skirt.
and, altogether,
Making Apron Riding
easy to make,
is
it
position of
is
it
comfortable
safety riding
much on
cut very
Skirts
skirts
the
is
principle,
the trouser
wear, as well as safe in case
for
of accident.
The shaded
The main thing is
portion at 27
when
the position of knee
is
room
to secure plenty of
for the
For
the saddle, and to keep the lap portion short and hollow.
seam
the apron
is
finished.
knee when the wearer
in
is
shaped
that reason a
put from 5 through 6 to R.
is
The
O, and you
Figure 11 joins point
11
will find
the other half of cut, and both have slightly round edges.
somewhat longer than

These two edges, when
together, produce a condiserable cavity into which the knee fits. The fulness
produced by extra length of side 11 must be sewn on and afterwards pressed back
sewn
from outer edge, and so help
to give
The
shape there.
large vees
on underside
will
by
the
caused
be sewn with tapering effect towards 17, and the surplus material
downwards over
closing up of these cuts be distributed by the iron
from
down raw edge
portion
have
of course,
all
the shape given
it
shaped part from
buttons put on a broad elastic tab,
on the lap
front waist
way
is
The
turned
in
arrangement, where
if
Z-W.
made up
fixed firmly
shown
two
with
on
at 24,
placquet-hole
bound
and
shown
edges
and
joins 11
put upon those positions shall not

is
merely cut
with a
in
down and
strip of lining.
pocket put
at
cut
close to lap
and where
and
holes,
below
a linen stay just
split
in
the material.
piped with a piece of the
same
facing can be put on the underside
as in the ordinary skirt;
in
joins
the placquet
finished
in
28 on diagram.
11-T and Y-Z
stitched.
If
you
with the lining before you
edge;
lining
5-b, 6-1 1-R,
at
linen,
or
of opening,
is
which goes
That
must be placed, and those points must be well tacked through the
The
this
This tab
portion.
or
seat
firm
this
so fhat the strain
material,
is
had
the
J,
consequence of
linen stays
which
is
rule
of material
that the cloth has
J-K-4-M-0,
machine
by
As
bottom behind T.
to
line 31,
and the piece of cloth which joins the underside
The
down
stitched
concerned.
is
seam with the same piece
lined to just cover the
is
either
seam
so far as the side
through the front, as per dot and dash

must,
17.
The lines V-W and J-L are the seat-seam when the apron is on, and that
to E is the side seam. These
seams will be sewn in the ordinary manner
and pressed open, the opened seam being

felled
line
the cloth of apron
stitch
is
are stayed with a strip of linen or staytape,
line the
front of skirt the edge
the edge
down;
if
not,
11-T
both can
be
will
of melton or other firm edge material.
then
be faced
felled
raw
JTHE AMERICAN DESIGNER
the leg,
301
^Vhen
will be
AND CUTTER
the flap portion L - J is fa'itened

up on 24, the leg of the rider
through the circle so formed, and so the apron fits cleanly and
firmly round
wheter the wearer be on horseback or on foot, just as we see
fitting
it
round the knee on
inset
loops of different shape

but such
is
comprehend
those loops
You
notice on
will
is
seen
at
and caught
29
at
at
29
made of
inch
fastened to a linen stay placed underneath the front
in the outer edge, and felled round its inner edge
to skirt. 29 is
about 8 inches long, fastened
is
both ends, and
at
fit
into
it,
and,
left
as
somewhat
you
will
bottom and about two-thirds the distance down from 11
somewhere about
is
25 of the large diagram; they are
that the foot of rider can easily
25
two
diagram
that
these appear to be on the outside of skirt in that diagram

not the case; they are shown there with a view of
aiding you to
the.r position whe:i the wearer is in the saddle.
The true position of
or 1 inch elastic; that

lining
diagram point 32.
one-third the length of front
double piece of sim.lar
clastic
to
seam up from
fastened to a linen
loose in canter,
note,
.stay
T,
the
is
so
placed with
that
its
to
say,
bottom of
skirt!
felled
is
on
the under
side;
the double end of loop reaches nearly to the bottom,

say wi-hin
or at
most 4 inches of bottom; the looped portion should be about 6
or 7 inches long,
and be strongly secured to skirt; into these loops the feet of
the rider can be
thrust at will, and be easily removed in case of
necessity-.
About 29 you notice a cloth tab, or you may put an elasttic tab there,
and,
on the whole, we would advise that as the better plan. Well
,<
this tab
with the object of enabling the wearer of the apron

that part of apron
of waist euts
is
walking.
this
While
when
ofl the
fitted
there
to
fasten
up
at back of waist, where a button should be placed

at the end
has the effect of hiding the upper parts of legs when the wearer
on the horse the skirt or apron appears as we show it at small
diagram, only the single portion comes against the side of

the horse.
The waust should be finished thinly, a;id with a neath ba.id
put at all
or the top of skirt turned in a.id stitched rou.id.
is
horse
if
band
be
302
Cutting Riding Skirts by Model Patterns
In the cutting of riding skirts
is
it
nec-
essary to edjust the pattern to the length, the

size of waist,
and the
In altering the
in
mind
to bear
that this will also effect the distance
from the waist

the
we have
to the
pommel,
knee that goes
that the
so
length
over
must
be
increased half above the knee and half below.
For
instance,
skirt has to
be
out the pattern
we
also
open
suppose the length of the
we open
increased 2 inches,
at
it
M M
out at
P P
making corrections
we want
waist
follow,
seat
it
seams K,
waist
are
this
G,
I,
comes
made
this
last,
as
is
F.
This
is
extra
adjust-
two may
necessarily
of
the
at the
four
size
done equally
being
done,
the
and the variations necessary
per dot and dash
endeavoring to take out

there
the
of
size
the
for the
dos not
best to edjust
is
and
first,
amount, but
that
to the seat,
go together, though
the
for
mind
to bear in
ment necessary
size of the seat.
length
In
larger
prominence
line,
always
vees
where
to provide for,
and
half that quantity,
vice ver.-a.
or 1 inch.
we
For the underside
out 1 inch at
and
inch
at
produce the proper adjustment
seam and
also at the seat-seam,
open
O;
at
it
this will
the
L.
side
The
outline used on this
an apron riding
and successful.
skirt
that
is
diagram
both
is
of
popular
303
304
Ride Astride Skirt
This diagram will produce a pattern to

measuring 24 inches waist, 40
a lady
fit
add
to or take
from the
off
from I is 5' 2 inches.

from J is 5 inches.
from K is 36'''s inches.
Connect points as represented and
inches hips, 39 inches side length.

Variations may be made as follows
In length
finish
the backpart.
bottom.
size of waist, alter the
In
V-s
at the waist,
as the waist
smaller or larger.
is
In the size
making
In
of hips, alter
at
sideseam.
variations for the side
be careful
to
the
of
size
enlarging or reducing them
make
hips,
of
the size of waist correct.
Frontpart
to
B and
Draw^ a stright line from
measnre 4 '4 inches. Square line from
to 7
measure from A
3 \5%, to 4 20'2.
and
5:^8. to
6 30 /^, to 7 3t)
from points 1,2,
to
Instruction for Drafting
L from
Backpart
Draw^ a straight line from

to B and
measure 4 ,'4 inches. Square line from
to
3I/4,
to
and measure from

E 4%, to F 6J/2.
to
1
3,
to J 20/8, to
down from
Square
and
L from
M from
N from
O from
P from
Q from
J
from
S from
C
D
is
7' 2
inches.
is
2}/-2
inches.
is
2 y inches.
'
E
E
is
5 '4 inches.
is
1'4 inches.
is
j's
inches.
G is 8 inch,
G is 4's! inches.
,'
to
to
Ib'ji^
C \,
8,
to
to
10^
inches.
C, D, E, F, G,
K.
H,
I,
8 from
9 from
10 from
1 1
12
13
14
15
is
7' 2
to
/-.s,
3,
4,
5,
6 and
to
5 23^.
inches. Square
down
7.
inches.
inches.
is
is
1^8 inches.
is
3 '8 inches.
from 3
from 4
from 5
fiom 6
from 7
is
'8
7;,'
/'4
to
inches.
is
3 '8 inches.
is
inches.
inches.
is
15;' 8
is
34/4 inches.
Connect points as represented and
finish
the frontpart.
W-X-Y-Z
is an 8 inch square gusset.

This ride astride skirt is cut in five
parts two fronts, two backs, and an 8 inch
:
square gusset. Opening

side
seam and
is
in this is a
arranged
pocket
at
left
inserted.
One-Quarter inch seam are allowed.
Ride Astride Skirt
305
306
Making Ride Astride
Skirts
In cutting from the pattern, a reduced model of which
you
make what
will
measurement
variations in
useful in case extra width or length
above
AA
the balance-marks are those lines indicated by
This diagram represents the front and back
and here we have
pieces,
be
all,
pjints
various
at
before the reader,
here placed
and leave on what
required here or there;
is
balance-marks, either by nicks, or by placing mark-threads
more importance than
is
necessary,
are
inlays will be
sure to locate
instead.
and
BB
in
illustrated the
all
Perhaps of
Diagram 1.
marking of
and balance-marks; and, as just mentioned, the lines AA and BB are two highly important
the former defines the amount of material or spring which is allowed
inlays
points for consideration:
cause the skirt, when the wearer is off the horse, to fall in graceful folds or plaits
and which, during the act of riding, affords sufficient room to permit of ease or comfort without
in any way marring the freedom of action which is so essential to the rider while on horseback.
in order to
The
rider
BB, on the
line of mark-threads,
astride the horse,
is
and follows the
the
defines
front piece,
lap-cut,
C, through the knee
front of skirt
point,
DD,
when
the
right to bottom.
We
cannot lay too much stress on the importance of care in putting the pieces together,
sewing the seams; unless these are properly put together you will experience all kinds of
trouble, and the wearer of the skirt will never experience that comfort she has a right to expect
and
in
from the competent
tailor.
two seams with which we slia'l deal are the lep-cut, C, and the knee-cut, DD.
During the operations of baisting, seaming and pressing these cuts, it is essential you should bear
function they have to perform.
in mind the reason they have been provided, and the special
The
The
fir.st
lap-cut in
styles of riding
all
trains,
during the act of riding; therefore

and,
ing up,
The
material at
addition to that,
in
one place and
marked with a
sewn together,
cross,
we
as
C,
illustrate
at
it
of loose material
lot
whole process of mak-
provtded with the double object of clearing away loose

looseness
or
is
Diagram
will
another; thus the part of diagram
at
the leg-seam of
2,
particular
this
and when
prominence or length
a considerable
now form
This will
star.
being sewn,
in the act of
just
is
to give length
both front and back,
the point indicated by the
order to obviate
in
should be kept thin there.
it
on the other hand,
kne-cut,
provided,
is
requires to be kept short during the
it
a receptacle
for the knee,
is
DD
given
1
is
at
while the leg cut,
shorten and keep clean, or, in other words,
free
from loose-
ness in that part of the front.
The
the hip,
other waist-cuts are also put there with a double object:

secondly, to obviate the necessity for a lot of drawing
and.
Reference of diagram 2
at
its
will
downwards over
Just above
gether
a
when
this
We
at the crutch.
Diagram
notch
at
,^.
1,
you
of the cut, C, has a tapering off

must be general, and when pressing
bottom with the iron, so as to throw
will notice
balance-marks, which should be kept to-
F is the linen stay to strengthen placquethole.

be left on when cutting out or sewn on afterwards.
which can
to
either
what
is,
perhaps, the most important item in the
the insertion of the piece
You
On
will notice a
shown
series of
at
Diagram
notches in the
3.
The
little
the front and back halves of skirt you will find
seat-seam,
seam well open.
o\'er
line.
the round of seat.
EE, on Diagram
come, now,
viz.,
spring
feature
the seams are being joined.
facing of cloth
of skirt,
to afford
along the waist
show you how the sewing
lower end. In sewing the other waist cut
the seams open be sure you disperse the loose material at

it
first,
in
double one
at front or
lap-seam.
Sew
this
make-up
object of this
square
of
cloth
is
being
of this style
to give spring
represented by
notches to correspond, a single

piece in
strongly and press the
Diagrams 4 and
joined
we
show
obtain a considerable
these notches placed
amount
In the absence of a lining at crutch,
down
keep them from
to
Diagram
leg seam,
togethet,
An
shows the
front
being the piece shown
and should be well worked out
The
either case,
in
these riding skirts.
The
is
that
to give
of diagram
be
to
show n
at
3 Htting e.xactly those
Diagram
shape and freedom
felled
on front
This gives the position
at the
be sure not to
make
the waist
measure over
or the
tight;
part,
top turned
a
placquet can be finished of? as in the case of the ordinary
The
turn~up
at
bottom
looseness of material there well shrunk before the upturn
done by
four sides are
while
for
the
piece of linen might be felled on there.
patent socket fasteners can be used.
this
ail
insertion.
the seams of the piece inserted ought
waist can be finished off with an ordinary band,
its
and back pieces joined together at what might be called the

at diagram 3, sewn to one-half of the train
H I shows the
important point for consideration
purpose of strengthening,
when
that
rising or doubling over.
same piece sewn into the front of skirt only.

At J and K, diagram 5, we have the notches
and back pieces shown at Diagram 1 and 2.
of knee,
so
of stride in consequence of
307
is
little
in a.id st.tclied;
freedom
skirt;
is
preferable
hooks and eyes or
should be well pressed,
fastened along
its
and any
upper edge; whether
felling the cloth or by machine stitching through the outs.de of skirt,

thought advisable, the front of skirt can be lined through, and the other seams felled
down, or you may dispense with the linings and treat all seams by felling; indeed, where
tne
skirt is made from firm edge material this latter pla.i is the
best.
is
If
308
Riding Coat
By
Direct Short
Measure System
No Seams
(How
to take
measurement
allowed
to this
system see page 292.)
Measures
Around Bust 40 inches.
Around Waist 26 inches.
Around Hips 4 inches.
Front shoulder 12/4 inches.

Front waist length 23 Jo inches.
Bust depth
5 inches.
Side waist length 21*4 inches.
Across Chest 5 inches.
Across Bust 19 inches.
Sleeve length
8 inches.
Back scye depth 7/4 inches.

Back waist length 5 1 2 inches.
Across back 4 inches.
Over shoulder 16*4 inches.
1
Draw
to 5,
is the back scye
depth, in this case
from
7/4 inches.
1
the back waist length, in this case

334 inches.
3 from
I
4 from
is
is
5 from 2
6 from 2
6 inches.
the full length, in this case 44 in.

the half across back, and '4 inch
more, in this case 7/4 inches.
7 from 2 is '4 full bust measure plus '2 inch,
in this case 10' 2 inches.
9 from 2 is the half around bust measure and
inch more, in this case 21 inches.
8 from 9 is the average chest measure, consisting of half across Chest measure (7 '2) and
halt across Bust measure (9' 2) added together and divided in half, in th.s case 8' 2 in.
is
is
10 from 9
1 1 is
is
one-quarter of line 2-9.
located by drawing a square
from 7.
12 from
is
line
down
Vx full Bust measure, in this case
2/2 inches.
13 from 12 is '4 inch on line squared up

from 12.
14 from 6 is inch less than the Back Scyedepth measure, in this case 6 '4 inches.
15 from 4 is 3^2 inch.
16 from 3 is inch.
17 is located by drawing a line from to 16.
18 is about the center of 13-1 5.
19 from 8 IS the front should ar measure less
to 12.
the back neck from
20 from 8 is the over shoulder measure less
the width from 7 to 18.
2 1 from 19 is '4 inch less than 13-15.
22 from 8 is '2 inches.
23 from 19 is the same as 1-12.
24 from 23 is the same as 1-12.
25 from 19 is the front waist length measure
less the back neck from 1 to 12.
26 from 19 is the bust depth measure less the
width of back neck from 1 to 12.
27 from 19 is the side waist length measure
less the back neck from 1 to 12.
28 from 16 is one-sixth part of 7-1 7.
29 from 15 is 2' 2 inches.
30 is located by drawing a curved line from
29 to 28 as represented.
31 is located by dravifing a square line down
from 28.
I
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
from
from
from
from
is
is
is
28
is
31
is
27
27
is
inch.
'4 inch.
'4 inch.
'4 inch.
is
the half-way from 7 to 30.

the half-way from 32 to 34.
located by drawing a line
through 37.
39 from 37 is
40 from 37 is
41 from 38 is
42 from 38 is
36
inch.
inch.
'4 inch.
'4 inch.
2 inch.
1 inch.
2 inches.
'/i
''2
43 from 1 is
44 from 1 is
45 from 25 is
'
through 45.
47 from 26 is
48
from
'
line
from 9
inches.
located by drawing a line from 47 parallel with line 9-46.

49 from 48 is one-third of the front waist supis
ression.
50 from 49
is
51 from 47
is
the front waist supression.

the same length as 47-49.
52 is located by drawing a line from 49 parallel with line 45-46.
53 is located by drawing a line from 51 parallel
with line
7-1
1.
by drawing a line from the

is located
middle 3-16 through point 4.
55 is located by a square line down from 28.
56 is located by drawing a line from the middle of 28-32 through point 33 and is the
same length from 32 as 28-55.
54
through 41.
58
located b> drawing a line from 37 through

is the same length from 39 as 40-5 7.
is located
is
42 and
59
through 43.
located by drawing a line from 2 7 through
is the same length from 35 as 34-59.
61 is located by connecting the line 51-53,
60 is
44 and
62 from 61
63 from 49
64 from 19
Add
inch.
is
'4
is
the
is
same length
as 51-62
inch.
for single
breasted button stand, and
shape lapel and bottom as represented.
From centre line to tabe make 6 inches

more than from centre line to button, or 10
inches as shown.
Si^B^mBSmj^ CUTTER
Riding Coat
23
64 19
309
310
Riding Coat
By
As
(How
Measure System
Seams are allowed
Direct Short
inch
measurement
to take
to this
system see page 292.)
Measures
Around Bust 40 inches.
Around Waist 26 inches.
Around Hips 4 inches.
Front shoulder 2 '4 inches.

Front waist length 231 j inches.
Bust depth
5 inches.
Side wâist length 21*4 inches.
Across Chest 3 inches.
Across Bust 19 inches.
8 inches.
Sleeve length
1
Back scye depth 7'4 inches.

Back waist length 5 j inches.
Across back 4 inches.
'
Over shoulder 16*4
inches.
To
A, Square both wâys from A as represented.
B from A is the Scye depth measure, in this
case 7/4 inches.

from
is the waist length
case 5 2 inches.
measure,
in this
from C is 6 inches.
Square out lines from B, C and D.
E from B is the half Bust measure plus 4
inches, in this case 24 inches,
F is the center between B and E.
G is the center between E and F.
H from B is the acros back measure, in this
inches.
from A is 5 _ inches.
J from is 2 '4 inches on line squared out
from
K from A is the half E-G, in this case 3 inches,
L IS located by a line squared out from K.
inch.
from H is
N from is 's inch less than B from A on
line squared out from M, in this case 6',x in.
O from N is 2 inch on line drawn from L
through N.
I
'
1.
'
is the centtr of M-N,

is the average chest measure, consisting of half acro33 Chest ( 7 ^ ) and half across
But (9' 2) added together and divided in
half (8 '2) plus '4 inch, in this case 9/4 in.
Front shoulder
is located by applying the
S from E
'
to
plus '4
to L and continued from
inches, in this case 22 '2 inches.
2 is located on line squared down from E by
aspplying the Front waist length measure
to L and continued from
to 2
from
inch, in this case 24'2 inches.
plus
1
case
Draft
measure from A to L and continued from

S to R plus '4 inches, in this case 12 '4
3 from
is
4 from
5 from
6 from
is
inch.
inch.
inch.
6 inches.
'4
is
5 is
7 from 3
'2 inches.
is
'4
8 IS located by shaping from 6

9 from 4 is 6 '4 inches.
to
7.
1 1 from 9 is 2 inches.
12 from F is '4 inch.
13 from is 2 inch.
inch.
15 from 3 is
16 from 13 is JU inch.
18 is located on line squared down from G
by applying the Bust depth measure from
A to L and continued from R to 18 plus
'
',s
inches, in thi.s case 16*4 inches.

18 is 1/2 inches.
20 is located byline drawn from 19 parallel
with line E- 7.
21 IS located by ine drawn from 9 parallel
with line E- 7
1
'4
19 from
plus
4 IS 13' 2 inches.
over shoulder
is located by applying the
measure from B to the middle of the back
shoulder L-O and continued froin S to F
plus
4 inches, in this case 17 2 inches,
from R is '^ longer than L-O on line drawn
from R through 1 ihis \j inch is to be
taken off at point R as represanted.
1
V from S
is
2 inches.
\V from R
is
is
from
this case 3
is
is
2 inch(
'4
'4
inch
s.
more than
inches.
a line squared
a liee squared
from A,
in
located by
down from E.
located by
down from F.
1 is located on line squared down from F by
applying the Side viâist length measure
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
from 20 is '/2 inch,

from 2 is 'x inch.
from 22 ii 3 inches.
from 19 ii the same length ai 22 from 9.
from li is 3 inches.
trom A is the full length desired.
is located on line squrred out from 27.
is located on line squared out from 2 7.
from 29 is 1 '4 inches.
31 from 21 is iKe same length as 30 from 15.
32 is about 16 inches below the waist line.
33 from 32 IS about 9 inches.
1
Allow for a single-breasted button ftand

stand 2 inches, and for a vent at the back
about 2-3 inches, and finish the draft as
represented.
Riding Coat
By
Direct Short
/!s
Measure System
inch Seams are allowed
31
312
Pantaloon Skirt
The Pantaloon
or
Harem
consists
Skirt
and outside skirt. Both

garments may be made from the same mateof the divided hose
although the divided part

made from a thinner stuff.
The
outside
skirt
with
illustrated
is
is
the nevvêst
diagram
outdoor walking skirt.
Diagram
frequently
is
rial,
of ladies
style
5-12 should be
balance
13 from
out
take
wâist;
the
half distance
is
of
7-8,
}4
inches.
Shape fork as represented.

14 from 12 is the side length 42
Shape bottom as represented.
inches.
Underpart
Hose
of Divided
'4
V-s as represented.
in
15 from 10
or Pantaloon
16
Measures
is
I'o inches,
is
located by drawing
line
from
14
through 5 and is the same length as 14-12.

> inch.
1 7 from 5 is
18 from 7 is 3 inches on line drawn from
8 through
7.
17-18 should be 34 waist take out the
balance in V-s as represented.
I
'
Side length 42 inches
Waist 24 inches
Hips 40 inches
Rise
2 inches
Forepart
Draw
2 from
3 from
more,
Hip
19 from 8
to 4.
6 inches always.
is
the
is
the Rise measure and 2 inches
line
4 from
is
the side length 42 inches.
Square out
lines
9-19
from
2,
3,
43-2
/8
Hip measure
less
is
The diagram marked B shows

yg
inches.
inches.
is
and
inch more, 3 inches.
located by drawing
1
0.
line
from
that the
top of the forepart has been reduced 3 inches.

The underpart, diagram C shows the
sideseam or
at the
is 12*2 inches
opening and the depth at the fork is 3 inches.
The bearer is shaped as shown on the
diagram, and is sewn with sideseam of forepart the underpart forms the fall at the
back or, in other vkôrds, the backpart of a
lady's divided skirt is the reverse of a man's
bearer
7 is the half distance of 3
through
seams.
inch,
9 is located by squaring down from 8.

10 from 6 is J4 Hip measure, 10 inches.
1 1 from 9 is ''2 Hip measure, 20 inches.
12
as 9-8.
as represented.
Allovkf for all
inches.
Hip measure,
7 from 3 is % Hip measure,
Connect points 5-6-7.
/<>
same length
the
The Bearers
is
6 from 2
8 from
is
4 as rep-
resented.
5 from
4 inches.
Shape fork
4 inches.
is
Connect points 9-19.
pair of whole-fall trousers.
Pantaloon Skirt
313
314
Ladies Riding Breeches

Measures
Side length 40 inches, Rise (from waist to seat of chair) 12 inches, Leg length (difference
between side length and ris8) 28 inches. Full length as desired, say 36 inches, Waist 24
5 inches. Small knee
3 inches. Calf
5 inches. Bottom (at
inches. Seat 42 inches, Knee
the full length of breeches) 12 inches.
(Measurement of Knee, Small knee. Calf and Bottom are taken by the lady herself.)
1
To Draft
Forepart

4 from 3 is s full waist measure
'

B from A is the Rise measure, in this case
Square out from B as represented.
from B is 14. full seat measure, ii
waist masure plus

s
inch, in this case 3' 4 inches.
Form the dart about 4 inches deep.
Finish the forepart as represented.
5 from 2
2 inches.
case
10'
from B
this
is
'
full
;{
measure
seat
is
'
D-H-G
K and
from
by drawing a
line
from
through
longer.
is the half leg length measure, less

inch, in this case
3 inches.
from
IS 2' J inches.
from N is 3'^ inches.
from about the middle of the waist
O
P
A-F down
the full length desired

inch, in this case 37 inches.
from
is
'4
is
Knee measure,
line
plus
in this case
from N is '4 Small knee mea.sure, in this

case 3'4 inches.
is
Calf measure, in this case
S from
'4
'
inches.
from P
is
Bottom measure,
'
in this
case
3 inches.
from
Kne
is
rneasure
inches, in this case 2 inches.
from P
is
Bottom
W
X
Y
is
is
is
6 from
is
inch.
Draw a line from D through 6 and longer.

Sweep out from 2 pivoting at U.
located be a line squared out from line
to a point on line sweeed from point
2, w^here it meets point 8.
8 from 7 is
inch more, than 3 from 2,
in this case 9/4 inches.
is
D-6
9 from P is
inch.
10 is located by a line squared out from
I
9.
is located by a line squared out from 9.

'4 inches.
12 from D is
14 from Q is 'i^ inch.
15 from R is '/i inch.
16 from R is '2 inch.
'4 inches.
17 from 10 is
18 from
is 2'-o inches.
19 is located by measuring the knee measure plus
inch from Q to U and
4 to
1 1
measure
'4
less
inches.

the center on line drawn from
from Y is 1 inch.
from B is 1 2 inch.
2 from A is Vi:.' of the
U to V.
U to V.
U to B.
3 from F
is
'K
inch.
3*4 inches.
3<t
J.
located
is
34
Undsrpart
'
from
full
'
plu
14'4 inches.
the center of B-D less
s
F is located by a line squared up from C.
in this
from C is the same as E fror
case 7 inches.
'4
inch,
from C is the half of C-D plus
in this case 2 s inches.
as represented.
Shape
Square both wâys from E as represented.
I from E is 3 inches.
J from E is 9 inches.
inch on line squared out
from J is
from B
is
inches.
inch, in this case
plus
19,
20
case 16 inches.
in this
located by measuring the small knee

1
inch from R to
and 5
to 20, in this case 14 inches.
21 is located by measuring the Calf measand 6 to
ure plus
inch from S to
2
22 is located by measuring the bottom
and
measure plus 3 inches from T to
17 to 22, in this case 15 inches.
IS
mesure plus
waist measure,
23
24
25
26
27
from
from
from
from
from
9
9
is
is
is
19 is
8 is
'
inch.
inch.
IJ/4 inches.
1
inch.
s
full
wâist
measure plus
/i
28 from
/s full waist measure plus

inch, in this case 3 '4 inches.
29 from 7 is !4 inch.
7
is
Allow for button stand 1 2 inches outside of 26-22.

Finish the underpart as represented.
One-Quarter inch seams are allowed.
'
full
Ladies Riding Breeches
315
THE AM ERICAN DESIGNER AND CUTTER
316
Leggings
Measurement: Small knee
13 mches, Calf
15 inches, Length
(No seams or turnings are allowed.)
A. Square both ways from A as represnted.

B from A is the length, in this case 13'/^ in.
Line A-B is the front center of leg."

from A is 3 inches.
Square out lines from B and C as rep-
resented.
from
the half Small knee measure,

6'j inches.
E from C is the half Calf measure, in this
case 7' J inches.
F is located by a line squared down from B.
Curve back line D, E and 3^^ inch inside F as represented.
from B is J-o inches.
from
is 3 inches for turn over.
I from
is 3 inches for turn over.
is
this case
in
G
H
G
A
Curve
line of
bottom from
'4
F through G, towards H.
Curve
The
line 1-H.
button stand position is shown by

inch inside the front center
heavy line
line A-B.
a
inch inside
Mark holes and buttons

shown on the diagram.
Curve the top
in
the position
line in the direction suggested.
Gaiters
Measurement:
Length
fje.ght of Instep 3
14', inches, Small
inches, Instep to Heel 6 inches. Heel to Front 8

inches.
knee 12 inches. Calf 13 inches. Ankle 8 inches.
'4
(No seams, or turnings

B from A is the Length measure, in thi;
case
D
E
14'
inches.
3 inches.
the Height of Instep
in this case 3 '4 inches.
from
is
inch.
from A
from B
is
is
measure
Square out lines from B, C anj E as

represented.
is the half
Small knf
measure.
from C is the half Calf measure
thi
case 6' J inches.
F from A
from E is the half Ankle measure, in this

case 4 inches.
I from D is the Instep
to Heel measure, in
this case 6 inches.
J from I is the Heel to Front measure,
in
this case 8 inches.
from J is
inch on line squared out from
Draw
Form
is
a line from
to D.
outline as represented.
the center of E-H.
J.
Square both ways from L as represented

edge of button stand.
tor the
in,
allowed.)
317
PART NINE
PRACTICAL TAILORING
In dealing with the
that
we have
the
making up of
we must
coats
ladies'
prominence of the bust
take into
consideration
the waist to define in varied
to clothe,
the hips to drape in graceful lines consonant with fashion's fleeting eccentricities,
may
3ur clients
coats are made,
may
the seams
The
is
Insert pockets,
lay fair.
canvas
in
fastened to dart-seam.
vas
inlays,
attention
given to
is
shoulders
The
put through shoulders,
the
order
in
which
from
materials
shoulders,
a. id
position of pockets,
of forepart needs to be shrunk,
may
and
order that
in
the
that
be met.
Begin the thread-marking

\xaist
special
and also the manipulation of seams
anatomical requirements
and
fact
be up to date.
In order to obtain these results,

ladies'
the
degrees,
is
the
a. id
and
on the
etc.
b as,
a straight
ith
canvas should be shrunk before insertion.
and should be padded on
The
hollow of sidebody
keeping bala.ice marks
front dart,
baist
best put in
burtons,
strained out at these parts in order that
i.ilays
An
fair.
do.vn
piece
under ca.ivai racher easy.
to
fronts
extra piece of bias can-
This
e.xtra
canvas should on no account be stitched on by the machine.
Both canvases through shoulders are slashed and vedged alternately

in order that a
shapely shoulder
the under canvas

it
is
is
may be
Pad
\\'hen coat
seamed through shoulders, which
arranged to be well on bias
close.
obtained.
lapels to a
nice curl.
at
the scye.
assists
bridle
Steady fronts with
is
in
of the
at
shoulder
the shap-ng
which
sta.\tape,
is
scye,
of the shoulder,
put across crease-row
is
and
seam over shoulder
and
neatly felled on.
kept
stjle,
and
fairly
and press
out carefully.
Baist
The
at that
part,
on
facings,
allowing plenty of length to linings, ease
lining of tight-fitting coats require
and
the.i
more length
that
shoulders, etc.
in
waist
on account of the suppression
the prominence of hips
Fasten facings to canvas up front dart and
The
in
waist of panel backs
is
best
shrunk
fell
to
linings neatl" in.
auay
clear
the
loose
material
formed
at
part.
The
use of wadding should be avoided as
much
as
possible
thinness and neatness are the prevailing features of ladies' tailoring.
on
making
ladies'
coats;
318
It
is
to stretch
always well to take the under collar from the bias of the cloth, as
and shrink
when
than
it
the form has introduced.
The
The
cut in any other way.
top collar
from the
best cut
is
under
collar
is
much
is
it
easier
which
the part in
with the center of the back
straight,
placed on the double edge; this avoids a seam, and also provides the stripes running in an effective
Once
manner.
the form has been
get the top collar to
In matter of putting
known
much
as the
crooked cut
longer collar
endeavor
to describe the
kept slightly short
The
just
moderate
The
is
For
cut.
and
made up
in
which
rule
is
as thin
as
followed
is
For
collar
to
difficult
possible.
When
and
is
cut
We
will
put on
collar should be
and
of the gorge,
the best
all
what
cut;
straight
repuired
is
hollow
the
in
harmony with hindarm-;eam.
classes of trade.
finished with a vent at the
Baist
piece
of
fine
canvas
cuff.
stitch
selection of buttons forms another interesting
feature
of
some
coats,
ladies'
stsles
either plain or fancy makes.
always best to study

in the
they are included
in
of
style
moderate cut shoulder the
shoutd be fulled on
it
turn over facing and serge along,
having large buttons,

It
seldom very
is
it
depends very largely upon the
collar
This
front.
sleeves require to be
cuff,
the under collar
whilst for a crooked cut a shorter
be sure of get run of cuff
through
in
very different from the straight cut of neck.
short across the back neck,
slightly
cuffs
on the
is
required,
is
obtained
properly.
fit
purpose garment
the
ornamental
of
features
is
ladies'
intended for before
and
coats,
buttons;
selecting
harmonise with the
must
other parts.
when
Ladies' coats repuire special care
no account must
a
little
parts
moisture,
press thoroughly,
iron to rag.
is
What
the best plan to
The
be "'boiled".
a ladies coat
and using
is
It
pressing.
is
Very
water must be used,
little
of
best to use a piece
good hot iron; press edges
from
inside
if
linen,
remove the
linings of ladies'
tailors
gloss
in
lightly
"half-damp-rag", together with the use of
the
damping
off
These
lining
or of
must be touched
on
all
other
applying
small iron,
oat.
of a ladies'
coats are mostly of fancy makes,
white or some other delicate color.
aid
possible,
then take a damp-rag well wrung out and remove gloss by
termed by
for
and by applying
silk,
a;
and
little
a^
\er\-
often either
possible
with the
iron for fear of soiling or deslroying their finish.
When
of the lining,
led;
by this
light
linings are used (white silk, for instance) the coat
being pressed and damped
means
it
is
kept clean.
off.
The
lining
is
made
up,
is
finished bar the insertion
baisted
in,
and
lightly
fel-
319
PART TEN
FITTING
Have
method
for trjing on,
as
you
tn,-ing
on
just
have
system
This
cutting.
for
most
is
important feauture.
There
methods of
are different
Let us describe the two
most
poutar:
basaed
The under-arm-seam
in.
This snle of preparation
The
other style
is
often adopt
of the under-a m-seam, the sleeves,
is
put
we mean
by which
front edge,
tion
in.
This
is
this
point
machine, for there
when
a^
and
very
is
put
in,
baste,
which the
in
and usually one
sleeve
drag.
or three try-ons are employed.
sewn with the exception

row of sewing is put in the
the seams are
all
collar.
The
first
seamed on; the linings are basted over, all manipulawhere only one try-on is employed, as it is
and finish to both fitter and wearer.
is
followed
fit
word
Never attempt
of warning;
garments up by
to baste
time saved by so doing, and you cannot ensure the same accuracy
little
garment having been prepared
we
to order,
On
adjusting
In this
the facing
utter a
when two
baste.
good idea of
will
the skeleton
basting by hand.
The
up
is
we
is
canvas
the
shoulders,
the plan usually
certainly the best to give a
At
the plan to follow must, to a
basted on the outside to facilitate fitting and prevent
is
the forward
is
there
First,
various seams are basted and turned on one side;

is
and
garment,
be governed by ciscumstances.
large extent,
her arri\al the
it
at
for
fitting,
examined
and
to
see
if
it
is
being
made
await the wearer with confidence.

first
done
thing to be
the top of back-neck,
is
to
garment
get the
and arranging the
underw ear so
on,
properl\-
that there
is
carefully
no accumulation
of materiol round the scye. This being done, bring the fronts well over, but before joining
edges together, notice the general hang of the

front,
is
the front shoulder
too long;
is
there
if
garment.
is
If
there
is
the
tendency to drop away
draggmg from the neck downwards, the
in
front
too short; both of which effect should be recitified by rippiag the sleeves out and the shoulders,
and arranging
Now
the balance so that
it
in
is
harmony with
and pinch them
the wearer's figure at shoulder-seam.
between the finger and thumb,

aid pin the two foreparts together. This being done, make a mark with chalk down the front
where the pins are. Also make a mark round the waist. This being done, proceed to examine
take the
two
front edges
the va.ious points of the garme.it
The
scye.
we
ajain,
4-The lower
waist.
have to note that
it
at
four points,
waist,
and
1-The top of back neck. 2-The back

Next comes the sleeve, and with this
width and balance. After the sleeves comes the front,
the top of forepart at neck; the shoulder and front
four points.
part of the back.
the correct length,
is
we have
of scye; the front

tematically,
proper sequence.
back may be done by locating
3-The back
and here,
i.i
together
viz.,
the lower part of the front.
then every part of the garment will
come under
If this
points are gone
examination.
over
sys-
320
marking
Fn
wrong, as sometimes there
some
combination
is
but a study
defects,
of
on, and to do this
is
it
not always easy to
It is
what
exactly
tell
alterations will give
of
usefull hints in this matter.
In the matter of trying-on skirts,
they are easier to
and length.
The
duty.
It
It
The
alter.
it
allways well to have
is
fitting
body
the
what she approves.

the cutting,
in
and manipula-
fitting,
when
important that the garment should be carefully examined
is
it
to see that all the details are faithfully carried out
as
over hips,
fit
part of the fitter's
only a small
is
pleasing the wearer, and giving her
important that the greatest care should be taken
is
seams basted outside,
the
points to notice in fitting skirts are, balance or hang,
bear in mind that
well to
is
real art lies in
garment; also
tion of
ed,
or to chalk the existence of a defect.
hesitate to use pins,
require patience and coolness.
fitter will
successfully the
is
do not
alterations,
the garment should be adjusted to wearer's requirements while
possible,
If
finish-
according to instructions.
examining of a finished garment is quite as much the work of a master hand as any
When "cocking" a job, a journeyman will soon sum up what a cutter is worth
direction, and to what extent, if he is so inclined, he can take liberties.
The
of the others.
in
that
at
once
master hand
that
is
it
first
what
state
to be very careful in
man
or inexperienced
looks
then
at this,
take hold of a garment
will
not the
then
at that,
in
such a way that
in
it
an awkward way, as
future he has
that in
something
at
he were frightened of
if
he comes
else; then
in
the novice
Ftrst of all
it.
back again to the
does not examine any particular part carefully and methodically.

In examining a garment there should be as much system used as
He
impress the tailor
will
it
examined and
that he has
he brings the job to be passed. Whilst, on the other hand
handle
will
way
job by a long
and
first
doing anything
so
else.
he
on.
Begin
by examining one part carefully, then another, and so on until the garment is finished. I do not
mean that every stitch should be carefully looked into: I think if there is a fair sewing it should be
sufficient. Finding fault with every little thing is not examining a job. Finding fault is the easiest thing
in
the world; everybody can do that; and there
cutter can find fault with
The
is
made
not a job
in the
ordinary
number of
perfection of a finished garment does not consist in the smallness or the
es there are in that
comprises those
Firs of
garment, but
little
all
in
but what the
\\ay
he wants.
if
things
in the
thought and
which make
examining
work
skill that is
put
in
it
creating
in
stitch-
thing
that
of art.
garment, get hold of
it
in
such a way that you create an
impression
you know what you are about, and that your desire is not to find fault, but to see a work of art.
First of all take the garment in your right hand, place your left hand in the left scye, and see how
the front and sleeve hang; see that the canvas and linings are not in too short; that the sleeve hangs
that
and examine the same
reverse the action on to the other side,
fair;
hands
in the
scye and see that the collar
on
is
fair;
the garment up, by getting hold of both sleeves at the back;

to see that they run
is
no
fulling
inside,
al
and see
to the
part
that there
when
it
is
it
is
holding
then examine the run of the seams
no straining where they should be even, and that there

Turn your attention to the
strained.
that the linings are in long in the waist,
because
not
if
it
will
you are
satisfied
inspection place
it
with these points, and that the sewing
on
form and see how the general
placed excactly the
same on both
too long or too short, and
if
sides;
the collar
fit
all
that
prove detriment-
that they are both the
whether the
is
collar
is
no drag or fulness when
it
should be clean.
should be, then,
same, with the
commands
of a fancy design,
is
and hang of the garment

the
turn,
and trimming
according to instructions. See that the run of the smallest part of the waist
is
then put both
back by
ought to have been
whether the sleeves are pitched properly, and

plaits
at the.
fit.
When
for final
even
is
on of one
as the other;
then have a look
is
is
fulness
is,
or
and whether
carried
correct;
out
that there
321
PART ELEVEN
ALTERATIONS
In marking alterations,
this succesfully,
the
what
as
wrong:,
is
do not
the garment should be
If possible,
some
there
is
fit
it
The
Alterations arise from
form.
errors
size
in
Defects show
them-
ways:
principally in three
selves
creases,
twists.
folds,
Creases arise from

Folds
arise
back of material.
from an excess
material.
of
Tv\ists arise from bad work.
Creases
Creases from neck-point to front
of
Diagram 1 are caused by an insuffidistance from neck to front of scye;
scye
cient
remedy;
let
out front neck
and
shoulder
shoulder-point, reducing the shoulder to
at
proper width
Creases
from
at
scye end.
at
side
of bust to hips;
the
(Diagram 2)
insufficient distance
arise
from prominence
remedy:
arm and reduce
under
out
let
waist to size
back
at
darts.
Crease from side to front

3
and
this
from the
small at
from
probably arises
a too long front shoulder;
if
so,
take
front neck and shoulder
neck-point; but
let
(Diagram
caused by the front being to
the bottom,
if
it
is all
at
)fT
the
right at shoulder
out bottom of front.
Creases from top of forearm of sleeve

to elbow at back
Take
off at the top of
the hindarm, and lengthen sleeve
This
is
at
cuff.
equal to adding on a piece at the
top of the forearm.
is
it
is
on,
not always easy to
defect.
and to do
exactly
tell
of the chapter on
but a study
is
always well
to
have
the
seams
points to notice in fitting skirts are:
over the hips, and length.
in
It
of
existeiice
whilst
usefull hints in this matter.
as they are easier to alter.
and errors
or chalk the
requirements
combination of defects,
In the matter of trying-on skirts,
outside,
pins,
pitience and coolness.
will require
fitter
sometimes
alterations will give
hesitate to use
adjusted to wearers
baisted
balance
on
or
the
hang,
322
These samples must
way they
the
and
run,
suffice to
the principle
illustrate
indicate a shortness
that creases
remedy them, more length must be given
to
the
in
they
direction
in
run.
Folds
Folds arise from an excess of material
show an excess
horizontal folds
sleeve having several folds at the top of forearm
way
the opposite
in
remedy
the
which
to
an excess of width.
vertical folds
of length,
for this
run;
they
Take
those
the case of a
from
to take off a piece
is
the top of the forearm
Folds over the hips
upwards owing
This
an excess of length produced by the
is
to a tightness over the hips.
allow the garment to drop into
Sometimes
The remedy
garment
being
and
to let out at the hips,
is
forced
proper place.
its
from a shortness of
this defect arises
lining,
in
which case the
must
lining
lengthened, or else the jacket must be shortened, and the lining put in the necessary amount
It
is
Folds around the neck; These arise from the lining or facings being put
shoulder.
The
slightly at the
shoulder point, but especially
The remedy
back
to shorten the
is
Fold from front of scye

as the fold
seam, and take

Fulness
is
in
To
to narrow.
the facing out across the
let
facing should always be put in wider across the shoulders.
much
Folds across the back: These are caused by too
let
be
fuller.
always well to remember that the linings should be put in long over the waist.
remedy, hollow out gorge
ness,
will
this
is
in the
at
to
back
dart,
front edge:
best
always relatively longer than the
way
remedy
to
order to reduce
in
This
is
length in the upper part of the back.
the upper part.
prominence of bust: This
The
V-shaped.
at
it
is
this
perhaps better
to let out
is
described
under the arm
as
at
ful-
the side
to the size of waist.
caused by the front edge being cut round, and as the round
straight,
so
it
the cause of the fulness.
is
The remedy
is
to
out at the bottom of front and reduce the size of waist by either enlarging the dart or taking
out another dart.
Tight armholes may

be to shallow, or they
out the underarm-seam:
remedy
for the third
on back
anough
arise
may be
one
from three
The
the best
remedy
for the
as well as forepart,
as
inlays
are only
best
second one
to let out at shoulder end.

left
It
is
may be too narrow,
they
different causes;
too tight on the top.
is
remedy
to
for the
first
one
they
is
may
to let
lower the armhole; and the best
not necessary
on the forepart
that
as a rule,
it
and
should be done
that
is
quite
for the purpose.
Twisting
Twisted seams are caused by careless work.
the machine
has driven the top layer
only plan to rip the seams and sew
down, and
them
The
fulled
seams has not been properly
on the lower one.
so that they go together fairly.
To
baisted,
remedy
this
and
the
PART TWELVE
SKETCHING
324
To
be able
cutter, tailor,
You
money
to sketch is of great value to
salesman,
can
make
you as a manufacturer, designer,
connection with the womens' wear trade.
etc. in
yourself
more valuable and
that
means more succes and more
for you.
importance that each figure should be practiced diligently.
It is
vital
It is
well for
you
to
surround yourself with Fashion Magazines and
from them the various methods employed by the different
artists.
to
observe
THE AMERICA!^ DESIGNER AND CUTTER
325
326
ABC
ABC
ABC
ABC
327^
328
329
330
331
332
333
334
INDEX
Title
New Market
Preface
Inverness
Opera Cloak
Introduction
What
a Designer should know

Ladies' Tailors Qualifications
System
Good lines
100-101
10
Vest
102-105
11
Stouts
106
Table of Proportionote Measurement for
Stouts
107
Semi-Fitting French Seam for Stout
108-109
12
12
12
Womens' Garments
to take
Measurement
Comparative Proportions for Normal
14-15
Wom-
ens' Sizes
Table of
Proportionate
17
Masurements
Women
Shirt Waist
110-111
Shirt waist with Side gore

112-113
Tight-Fitting Waist Lining
114-115
Tight-Fitting Waist Lining with Side gore 116-117
Sleeve for Waist
118-119
PART ONE
How
96-97
98-99
10
11
Contrasts
Fashions
Style
94-95
for
17
18-19
Systematic Outline
20-21
Tight-Fitting with one dart
22-23
Tight-Fitting with two darts
Tight-Fitting back and Semi-Fitting front 24-25
26-27
B.ouse
28-29
Basque or Tunic Skirt
Tight-Fitting Eton with one Dart
30-31
32-33
Tight-Fitting Eton with two Darts
34-35
Tigît-Fitting Eton with one Side Gore
36-37
Tight-Fitting Eton with French Seam
Tight-Fitting French Seam with underarm
38-39
Gore
40-41
Tight-Fitting Double French Seam
42-43
Tight-Fitting 18 Gores
44-45
Tight-Fitti.ig 22 Gores
Semi-Fitting Back and Loose Front
46-47
48-49
Semi-Fitting with Dart in front
Semi-Fitting French Seam
50-51
52-53
Semi-Fitting Coat with underarm Gore
54-55
Sack Coat with Loose Front
56-57
58-59
Sack Coat with Shaped Front
60-61
How to make Shoulder-Dart
62-63
Loose Box Coat
Loose Box Coat with Front-Shoulder Dart 64-65
66-67
Coat Sleeve
Sleeve with fulness on toj)
68-69
One Piece Sleeves
120-123
124-125
Collars for waists
126-127
Yoke
128-129
Shield
128-129
Waist with Kimono Sleeves

One Piece Butterfly Waist
130-131
Measurement
134-135
136-137
Two Gore
138-139
Skirt
Three and Four Gore Skirt

Five Gore Skirt
Six Gore Skirt
Seven Gore Skirt
Nine Goi-e Flare Skirt
Eleven Gore Flounce Skirt
Thirteen Gore Plaited Skirt
146-147
148-249
150-151
152-153
154-135
158-159
Skirt with fixed bottom wilth

Skirts for Stouts
132-163
Princess Slip
166-167
160-161
ie4-lC5
PART TWO
Misses'
Garments
Table of Proportionate Measureme^.ts for

Misses' Sizes
17]
76-77
Capes
78-79
Yoke and Hood
80-81
Systematic Outline for Misses' Skirts

Seven Gore Skirt
Cape Coat
Cape with Kimono Sleeve
Coat with Kimono Sleeve
Raglan Coat
Deep Armhole Coat
82-83
One
92-93
Piece Coat
144-145

Princess Skirt
Collars
86-87
142-143
156-157
Sleeve
84-83
140-141
Circular Skirts
70-71
Bishop Sleeve
One Piece Tight Sleeve
72-73
One Piece Tight Sleeve with middle seam 72-73
Collars and Lapels
74-75
68-fc9
132-133
for Skirts
Systematic Outline for Misses' Sizes

Tight-Fitting French Seam
Semi-Fitting-witting with Dart in Front
Sack Coat with Loose Front
Loose Box Coat
Blouse
One Piece Sleeve
132-133
172-173
174-175
176-177
178-179
180-181
182-183
184-185
186-187
188-189
PART THREE
Juniors'
Garments
88-89
Table of Proportionate Measurement for
90-91
Juniors' Sizes
Semi-Fitting French
193
Seam
194-195
LTBRflRY OF CONGRESS
013 973 177 3
Loose Box Coat

Blouse
1%-197
Misses'
198-199
Seam
Sleeve
200-201
Childrens' and Infants' Semi-Fitting
Five Gore Skirt

Circular Skirt
202-203
Childrens' and Infants' Loose
204-205
Sleeves
PART FOUR
Childrens'
Garments
and
208-
Childrens' Sizes
Tight-Fitting
Semi-Fitting
214- 215
Sack Coat
Loose Box Coat
Sleeve
Tight-Fitting Waist Lining
216- 217
Waist
224- 225
Coat Dress
226
Military or Standing Collar

One Piece Sleeves
228 229
Collars
234- 235
218- 219
220 221
222 223
.227
230- 233
238- 239
PART FIVE
Infants'
Garments
Table of Proportionate Measurements for
271
Box Coat
272
273
274
Length of Garments
Grading Lengths
Grading Skirts
275
275
276
PART SEVEN
Special
Measurement
278-279
Foundation of Garment Cutting
280-281
How to take Special Measurement
Systematic Outline for Special Measure-
ment
282-283
Seam
284-285

Systematic Outline, No Seams
Tight-Fitting Jacket, No Seams
How
Measurement
Direct Short Measure System
to take
Special
286-287
288-289
290-291
for
292
PART EIGHT
Systematic Outline for Childrens' Skirts 236 237

Five Gore Skirt
French
Capes, Yokes, Collars, Cuffs
209
210 211
212- 213
Tight-Fitting
270
Table of Proportionate Measurements for

Systematic Outline
Juniors'
Riding and Sporting Garments

Riding Skirts
294-295

Apron Riding Skirt
296-297
300-301
298-299
Coat Dress
250-251
One Piece Sleevesl

Infants' Yoke
252-253
254-255
Hints on Making Apron Riding Skirts

Ride Astride Skirt
Making Ride Astride Skirts
Riding Coat, Special Measure, No Seams
Riding Coat, Special Measure, with Seams
Pantaloon Skirt
Ladies' Riding Breeches
Infants' Shield
254-255
Leggings
316
Hood
256-257
Gaiters
316
243
Infants' Sizes
Systematic Outline for Infants' Sizes
244-245
Loose Box Coat
246-247
Sleeve
248-249
PART SIX
302-303
304-305
306-307
308-309
310-311
312-313
314-315
PART NINE
Grading
Practical Tailoring
Art of Grading
Scale of Regular Stock Patterns
260
261
Tight-Fitting with Dart
262
Semi-Fitting with Side Gore
263
Eton
264
Semi-Fitting French Seam

Tight-Fitting French Seam
Tight-Fitting Double French Seam
How to grade Misses' Sizes from
Size Patterns
Misses' and Juniors' Tight-Fitting
265
317-318
PART TEN
Fitting
PART ELEVEN
266
PART TWELVE
267
Sketching
Ladies'
2(i8
269
335-336
c^,^
(^~ /n
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

The American Designer and Cutter - Saul Schorr (1915)

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TT 520

Complete, Practical and

Grading, Fitting, Sketching

kinds of Womens', Miss-

AMERICAN PAT! ERN COMPANY

Entered according to act of Congress

C, and any infringements on

the fullest extent of

freely expressed wishes of

experiment and practice

the art of designing, cutting, grading,

trust the trade will here

kinds of Ladies', Misses', Juniors', Childrens'

acknowledge an honest attempt

of a permanent nature, that no matter

correspondents and pupils,

Designing and Garment cutting.

sketching and practical tailoring of

put into book form this compilation of several year's observation,

as a guide to the principles of designing

fluctuate, will conveniently

and garment cutting

have given such

experience Designer, Cutter and Pattern- Maker

convinced that any person of average intelligence can become a master

of the art through the

have spared neither labor nor expense

the highest place in the Designer's

world-wide audience believeing that

achive success as Designer, Cutter and Pattern-Maker.

which no pains have been spared

the ordinary inch measure.

The method by which

in numerical order in the descriptive text

time economized and trouble absolutely eliminated.

This important and thoroughly comprehensive work

same time simpler and more

than any other system before

must be blended with the prevailing ideas

associationc, but they

fashions, or they will

Of course the Designer needs

and another. There must be order

sleeve from an other, a collar from a third

and proportion, are the laws

between the various

from one costume, a

and a body part from a fourth

blending the whole into one harmonious whole by

arrangement, and there must be a proportion

for these three, unity, order

These we may obey, and

must be unity between the design

to realize that there

Ladies' Tailor Qualifications

blend his colors to match the

nature with an eye to beauty, so that he

arrange the seams,

so as to poduce the best effect on his customer.

a knowledge of materials and the latest

manners and conversation, courteous and

should be able to take his measure easy and

and he should avoid