DKNY JEANS- WOMEN'S KNITS

HOLIDAY'10
SAMPLE STATUS:
1st proto
APPROVED

ATTENDEES AT FITTING:
Shannon, Mackensie
FIT DATE:
4/29/2010

FITTING DONE BY:

Elisa

FABRIC CONTENT:
120gm 77/23 ctn/poly

FIT MODEL: Anna

FACTORY:
L&F HK - LaSpringTx

COMMENTS ISSUED BY:

Mackensie
5/10/2010

FITTING PHOTOS
STYLE#:
KCMUK428

add 1/4" cap height

and adjust cap width

shldr
seam
fallnig
to the
back

move top
of shirring
seam to
start at CF
nk seam

raise CB nk drop

neck trim is wavy and loose

increase slv length

Fit/ Aesthetic

Spec
Measurement
Revisions
Construction

add soft knitted

elastic across
body from armhole
to bottom hem

1) shoulder seam balance is off. Front and back panels have different slopes and are not meeting. Sample is falling to the back a lot.
2) add 1/4" slv cap height and adjust cap width accordingly. Sleeve is fitting too tight
3) increase slv length to 25"
4) raise CB nk drop
5) understand front hem will drape slightly longer than back hem, but sample is too drastic. Pls try to balance hems to be level
6) sample is fitting too tight and underspec. increase chest and waist 1/2" to meet spec. increase sweep 1/2"
7) move shirring seam at top to start at CF nk seam, not off-center
8) add 1/4" knitted elastic facing from wearer's right armhole to bttm hem off-center
9) reduce neck trim to 1/2" height. Need to reduce neck trim cut length to trim cinches into body. Sample neck trim is wavy and loose
10) lower armhole to meet spec
11) increase shoulder width, across front, and across back to meet spec

see reivsed spec page

bring all measurements to meet spec
Pls note, I changed "how to measure" to be from HPS neck seam instead of nk edge
1) increase slv length
2) add 1/4" faced knitted elastic across body from armhole to hem
3) reduce nk trim height to 1/2"

Workmanship
Comments

1st proto is aprvd with corrections. Submit SRS to Mary and 1st CS to Elisa. Pls mark and address samples accordingly.

DKNY JEANS- WOMEN'S KNITS

HOLIDAY'10
SAMPLE STATUS:
1ST CS
REJECTED

ATTENDEES AT FITTING:
Shannon, Mackensie
ANN
FIT DATE:
7/12/2010

FITTING DONE BY:

Elisa

FIT MODEL: SUB

FABRIC CONTENT:
120gm 77/23 ctn/poly

FACTORY:
L&F HK - LaSpringTx

FITTING PHOTOS
STYLE#:
KCMUK428

1) Shoulder seams are balanced

2) Sleeves looks good
3) Neckline shape is okay.
- Necktrim construction needs to be revised. We need a slit needle to hold down the bias cut trim.
4) Cross body elastic stitch is now changing to 3 rows of smocking backed with elastic chain stitch for shirring effect.
1/2" spacing between the stitch.
5) Body width, Waist width and bottom sweep needs to be adjusted bigger as revised spec.
Fit/ Aesthetic

Spec
Measurement
Revisions
Construction

see reivsed spec page

bring all measurements to meet spec
Cross body stitch is now changing to 3 rows of smocking w/elastic chain stitch backing.
pls make sure to product enough shirring effect. Reference Fall 2010 s#KCMUK405 style.

Workmanship
Comments

1st CS is rejected pls submit 2nd cs with corrections for approval

COMMENTS ISSUED BY:

Elisa
7/12/2010

PAGE 1 of 2

DKNY JEANS- WOMEN'S KNITS

HOLIDAY'10
SAMPLE STATUS:
1ST CS
REJECTED

ATTENDEES AT FITTING:
Shannon, Ann'
FIT DATE:
9/8/2010

FITTING DONE BY:

Mackensie

FIT MODEL: Anna

FABRIC CONTENT:
120gm 50/50 ctn/poly

FACTORY:
L&F GT - PPT

COMMENTS ISSUED BY:

Mackensie
9/8/2010

FITTING PHOTOS (see next page for more pictures)

STYLE#:
KCMUK428

sample is pulling out at

sides due to poor pattern
balance. Must correct.

increase smocking intensity

as pinned, bottom hem
needs to remain straight

Fit/ Aesthetic

Spec
Revisions
Construction

1) patterns are not balanced causing fit to be distorted. Pls correct patterns so all pieces are balanced
- shoulder seams are not matching front to back
- neck width and shoulder widths are not matching at shoulder seams frt/bk. Front panel is wider than back panel at shldr and neck widths
- wearer's right front side seam length is longer than back side seam length. There is no shirring at side seams, so side seams need to balance.
- shirring seams do not match
- forward shoulder seams are uneven left to right on sample, need to correct to be the same
- pls note, patterns have no seam allowance marked, so I am assuming a 3/8" seam allowance. Pls make sure seam allowances are marked
2) armhole length is too long and sitting away from wearer.
- correct shldr seam balance
- reduce armhole length to meet spec
- saddle width on body is too narrow. Need to square off underarm and scoop out for more saddle width
- slv underarm/saddle shape is too sloped and straight. Square off and scoop out underarm for saddle. Increase cap height 1/4"
3) add cap width to top slv only. Cap width 2 1/2" down is ok as pattern. See photo
4) move shirring seam toward CF 1/2" top to bottom. Seam should have shirring on both sides of seam.
5) smocking intensity is flat on sample. Need to increase smocking intensity for more shirring effect. See photo. Bottom hem should remain straight on flat
6) smocking should have chainstitch on underside of fabric for better security. This is our smocking standard.
7) remove shirring on wearer's left front side seam. Side seams do not have any shirring
8) reduce chest, waist, and sweep
9) reduce slv opening
10) fabric content is incorrect and stripe layout it incorrect. Pls discuss with design team for details.
see reivsed spec page. Pls note, some POMs have been added/changed
bring all measurements to meet spec and within tolerance
1) increase smcoking intensity. Smocking should have chainstitch on underside
2) shirring seam needs to have shirring on both sides of seam.
3) remove shirring at side seam.
4) fabric and stripe layout are incorrect.

Workmanship
Comments

1) use chainstitch for smocking on underside

1st CS is rejected due to incorrect fabric, poor pattern balance and poor ftg sample. Submit 2nd CS in correct fabric and all corrections made so I can
properly evaluate sample. Will try to upgrade next sample

PAGE 2 of 2

DKNY JEANS- WOMEN'S KNITS

HOLIDAY'10
SAMPLE STATUS:
1ST CS
REJECTED

ATTENDEES AT FITTING:
Shannon, Ann'

STYLE#:
KCMUK428
FIT DATE:
9/8/2010

FITTING DONE BY:

Mackensie

FIT MODEL: Anna

FABRIC CONTENT:
120gm 50/50 ctn/poly

FACTORY:
L&F GT - PPT

COMMENTS ISSUED BY:

Mackensie
9/8/2010

FITTING PHOTOS (see next page fore more pictures)

smocking
intensity is flat on
sample.

increase smocking
intensity for more
shirring effect and use
chainstitch on
underside.
shirring seam is
missing shirring
on one side

Move shirring seam toward CF 1/2" top

to bottom. There should be shirring on
both sides of shirring seam.
increase slv cap height 1/4"
and slv cap width at top only.
Cap width 2 1/2" down from
top is ok as pattern

square off and scoop out slv underarm for saddle. Saddle
width needs to be increased on underarm body as well.

reduce slv opening and straighten slv inseam

DKNY JEANS- WOMEN'S KNITS

HOLIDAY'10
SAMPLE STATUS:
2nd CS
APPROVED
upgraded to PPS

ATTENDEES AT FITTING:
Shannon, Charles, Lady
FIT DATE:
9/20/2010

FITTING DONE BY:

Mackensie

FIT MODEL: Anna

FABRIC CONTENT:
120gm 100% cotton

FACTORY:
L&F GT - PPT

COMMENTS ISSUED BY:

Mackensie
9/20/2010

FITTING PHOTOS
STYLE#:
KCMUK428

slv cap is too big

for armhole. Must
correct slv cap
circumference to
equal armhole
circumference

Fit/ Aesthetic

neckline is distorted from shirring

fullness. Shave off from pattern 3/8"
on wearer's left side as shown

1) sleeve cap height and width are too big for body armhole. Slv cap circumference and armhole circumference need to be equal for balance. Must correct
- reduce cap height and width as shown in photo. Will need to add slv length at bottom to meet spec
- underarm is winging out and sitting away from body. Reduce muscle on pattern to meet spec
- reduce armhole length as revised spec
- forearm is tight and under spec. increase to meet spec
- slv pattern is missing notches. Need double notch for back and single notch for front. There should be 2
slv patterns on bulk marker (cut 1 each) for front and back slv to be sewn correctly
cap height and width are
too big for armhole and
2) body length is 1" too long. Reduce to meet spec
underarm is winging out.
3) bottom sweep is stretched out and too big. Reduce to meet spec
This is causing slv to sit
away from body. Reduce
4) neckline is being distorted from shirring. Pls shave off about 3/8" on wearer's left
cap height and width so slv
side for a round scoop shape
circumference is the same
5) pls make hem as straight as possible by shaving off from pattern.
to armhole circumference.
Reduce muscle width on
6) neckline stitches are tight. Pls adjust stitch tensions for maximum stretch
pattern to meet spec and
scoop out underarm for
saddle.
orange line = back slv
blue line = front slv

Spec
Revisions

see revised spec page

bring all measurements to meet spec and stay within tolerance
1) body length is too long, reduce to meet spec

Construction
Workmanship
Comments

1) adjust stitch tension for maximum stretch.

overall sample is much improved. 2nd CS is upgraded to PPS due to timing. Make all above pattern corrections and proceed to bulk