waterfall

scarf
DESIGNED BY Tricia Waddell
[ Photo on page 72 of Stitch

magazine Spring 2010]

Fabric

1 yd (91.5 cm) of 44" (112 cm)-wide

douppioni silk


Other Supplies

Matching high-quality polyester or silk

thread
Fabric pencil or tailors chalk
Fine, sharp sewing machine needle appropriate for silk (consult your manual)
Handsewing needle

Finished Size: About 66 (168 cm) long x 17

(43 cm) wide (at center).

Notes

A subtly contrasting color of thread can be

used instead of a matching thread to accentuate the shirring on the ends of the scarf.

Cut Fabric & Finish Seams

1 Cut two pieces of douppioni silk, each 36

(91.5 cm) long x 18 (45.5 cm) wide.
2 Attach the two fabric pieces along the
short end with a slight variation on a traditional lapped seam, according to the following
instructions. Fold over the short edge of one
piece " (2 cm) toward the wrong side; fold
over the short edge of the second piece " (2
cm) toward the right side. Overlap the folded

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edges as shown in figure 1, so that the right

sides of both pieces are facing up (the raw
edges will be hidden); pin the pieces together.
On each side of the scarf, edgestitch along the
clean folded edge to attach the pieces together
(figure 2). Press flat.
3 Now that you have the finished scarf length,
it's time to finish the outside border of the
scarf. Fold over (toward the wrong side) " (6
mm) on one long side and press, then fold over
another " (6 mm) and press. Edgestitch the
hem. Repeat the entire step on the remaining
long edge and on both short ends of the scarf.
Press all hems.

Create Shirred Edges

4 Using a fabric pencil or tailors chalk and a

straightedge, mark a line across the width of
the scarf, 12 (30.5 cm) from one short end.
Starting at that line, measure and mark a
parallel line every 1 (2.5 cm) toward the short
end until you have 2 (5 cm) left at that end of
the scarf. Along the line farthest from the end,
mark off every 4 (10 cm), and then mark vertical stitch lines to the end of the scarf at each of
these marks. You will have marked a checkerboard of 10 horizontal lines and 3 vertical lines
(figure 3). Repeat the entire step at the other
short end of the scarf.
5 Using basting stitches (3.0 to 4.0 mm),
stitch along each marked horizontal stitch line,
leaving long thread tails on each end; do not
backtack and be careful to avoid stitching over
the thread tails! Repeat to stitch the 3 vertical
stitch lines.
6 To create the horizontal shirring, grasp the
bobbin thread only on the first line of stitching
and gently slide the fabric along the thread,
toward the center, to gather loosely. Repeat
to gather from the opposite end of the same

stitch line. When you are happy with the gathers, use a handsewing needle to bring the top
threads through to the back and knot securely
(use a double knot), then trim the ends. Repeat
the entire step for all 10 horizontal stitching
lines on each scarf end. Note: If the thread
breaks, remove the stitches and rebaste along
the marked line.
7 Now gently gather the 3 vertical lines of
stitching on each end, as before, to create
interesting sculptural fabric. Adjust the vertical and horizontal shirring, if necessary, until
you are pleased with the look. To finish off the
thread tails from the vertical stitching, knot
and trim the threads along the bottom edge of
the scarf. For the thread tails at the top end of

the vertical stitching, use a handsewing needle

to bring the top thread through to the back,
and then securely knot and trim the threads as
before.
Optional: For added security, set your machine
back to the default length for a straight stitch
and stitch directly over each previous stitch
line. This will set the shirring in place so that
the gathers will not shift.
Tricia Waddell is the editor of Stitch

and editorial director of the knitting and crochet

magazines for Interweave. If shes not working,
shes definitely sewing.

1 (2.5 cm)

12
(30.5 cm)

figure 1

2 (5 cm)
4 (10 cm)
figure 3
figure 2

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1
(2.5 cm)