Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
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MBft^
COMMUNITIES
Bobbie Kalman
****
Crabtree Publishing
San Rafael
Company
San
Pwfcfic Libfan/
10 *
Rafael,
$***
CA 94901
COMMUNITIES
Created by Bobbie Kalman
Editor-in-chief
Bobbie Kalman
Printer
David Schimpky
Worzalla Publishing
Illustrations
Art credits
title
Colorized engravings:
page, pages
5, 8,
29
23
Research
David Schimpky
Photo credits
Bobbie Kalman: pages
5,
Editors
Ken
David Schimpky
Faris:
pages 4 (bottom), 7
(top), 13
N-Lynne Paterson
Special thanks to
James Campbell
EC
The students
Graphics
Published by
Crabtree Publishing
Company
RR
4,
Suite 3308
Niagara-on-the-I.ake,
New York
Ontario,
N.Y. 10118
LOS
Canada
(I
leadington
Oxford
1J0
Walk
73 Lime
lulled
listune
communities
series)
OX3 7AD
Includes index
Kingdom
Copyright
reserved.
No
1993
may be
All rights
reproduced, stored in
any form "i by any me, ins,
<
.1
<
Costume
Mtle
1947-
ll
History
hile
listorii
19th century
Juvenile literature
communities
series
ompan)
I
&N
T620.K345 1993
|391'.00971
ill
Series
Kalman, Bobble,
Contents
4
Pioneer clothing
Working
Women's fashions
clothes
12
15
Underwear
16
Footwear
18
20
Cleanliness
21
Hair styles
23
Sportswear
25
Children's clothes
29
Mass-produced fashions
30
31
Glossary
32
Index
a new idea
Pioneer clothing
The nineteenth century
exciting time of
immigrants settled
who made
frontier lands
in
and Russian
to start
Many
homes
new
lives
of these
in
those rugged
called pioneers.
North
their
were
in
German, French,
British,
people
was an
America. Thousands of
Swedish,
(1801 to 1900)
to build
homes and
things.
II
they needed
cities,
When
their clothes
from scratch
to
wore
make new
it
out, they
clothing.
from the
had
to
V*
and
making
clothes
were wool,
flax,
The brake
leather.
Winter wool
To make wool, the thick winter coat of sheep was
It
Tlte fibers
Flax to linen
The fibers of the
linen, a lighter
flax plant
summer
were used
material.
to
make
of the plant
a brake,
was broken on
and the
fibers
were
Clothing
made
of leather
it
made by tanning
was soaked
in a
hides.
chemical
hemlock
tree. It
was then
Ss'.
and pants.
make
jackets, boots,
Working
clothes
became
clothing. In
summer
is
wearing
shirt,
the
A shorter white
by many farmers
Clothes
still
cowboys
also
and
making and
tall
by
coats,
now
worn
today.
are
that
named
selling these
"jeans."
denim
trousers,
which
called "Levi's."
Cowboy
hats
Cowboys wore huge hats that came to be known
as "cowboy hats." They were classified in gallon
sizes
were
hats doubled as
*
^^^
^S'
whereas the
wash basin
or
<i
bucket
in
to a thirsty horse.
Rural
women
made
women
On Sundays
own a good
wore
every
dress.
if
Hats were
Wide-brimmed straw
a part of
hats or sun
women
preferred
their family.
(top)
is
wearing
by more
closely
fitting
skirts.
or water-repellent cloth
Many
cape
collar.
ivaist.
Women's fashions
The
living in
hooped
towns or
skirt,
women
dresses, blouses,
mutton
was
combination of the
Many
cities
women
sleeves.
The
a thin-waisted look.
and
jackets
had leg-of-
made from
or lace.
The empire
Flounced dresses
gown
ivas
were popular
worn
in the
the 1850s.
in
The princess
gown
ivas a one-piece
dress that
had
early 1800s.
neck
down
to
the floor. It
was
popular around
\
the middle of
the century.
(left)
A woman named
women. Although
became famous,
bloomers.
hooped
earlier
skirts of the
days were
made walking
difficult.
was
&**
10
ivorn by
casual suit
women
in the
comfortable.
Empire gowns
In the early 1800s,
The
skirt
A solid
tight corset
to the ankle,
and the
Middle-of-the-century dresses
They had
long flounced
The
skirts.
is
in
open to
tight bodices
first suits
for
is
typical of the
was popular
on top and
lace dresses
large
and
and a
petticoat
descended straight
women
at that time.
and
women
the 1860s.
It
was
Women
bloomers during
was
The dress
wore
also
this period.
Tight dresses
In the 1870s a new
It
skirt.
floor length
style of skirt
and
became popular.
full at
difficult in
the knees!
small bustle
became
The "hourglass
figure"
came
to
skirt
longer.
into fashion,
make
and
their waist
More
practical clothing
of the century,
women's
clothes
were popular as
well, especially
in
an
office.
11
1.
Tlie
consisted of an unpatterned
suit with a short waistcoat,
3.
in the front
and
5.
6.
like
an overcoat.
English gentleman
He wore
in the early
conservatively
new
style of suit
were
tan, green,
in
-in still
be
Changing
suit styles
composed
men's
and
a coat
of
were standard
suits
were
be single or double-breasted.
coats
skirts.
tails at
had no
the back.
waistline,
for
It
of a
shirt,
always worn,
coats of today.
Useful waistcoats
a "coat,"
it
was
actually
in
Tlie
of short ones
was
the
men wore
popular
pants were
fit
North America. To
creases
down
became fashionable
this day,
the front
in
and back.
13
-J.
drawers
Drawers were
ruffled
shown
vShifts were
worn next
to the skin.
j
,
>
;,
X,
shift
compared
to corsets.
camisole
when
casual.
cage-style
crinoline
petticoat
14
Underwear
Corsets, or stays, were an essential part of
woman a
Hoops and
crinolines
had
domed
shape.
Whalebone or metal
the crinoline
was
was
a petticoat lined
dome. Later
it
invented. At
developed into
with
make
a light
a rigid
metal cage.
The bustle
By
popularity.
fuller,
It
giving
made
women
much
a big-bottomed look.
skirts
took on a
As the
more
one-piece undergarment
came
the hack.
in red or
Union
days.
Petticoats
Many
and drawers
Petticoats
that
longer.
fit
were
under regular
skirts.
Drawers were
flesh-
worn by women
beneath their skirts. They became popular in
the 1830s and have been worn by women in
colored ruffled pants that were
different
of fine
forms ever
wool
for
since.
Cravats and
ties
were worn
were added
suits. Collars
at the knees.
and
cuffs
ivith
15
1.
Roman
sandals and
2.
worn
slippers were
indoors.
3.
Outdoor shoes
extended above the ankle and were buttoned or laced. Tliese shoes, called
high shoes, had either a pointed or square toe.
4.
On more formal
occasions
or
decorated with
the
"
5.
worn
from
to protect shoes
the
side could
and stockings
mud.
6.
Footwear
The people who
made by
whom
made was
called
leather,
identical.
and the
left
and
right shoes
big so that
lisle. It
was woven
and was soft
for
were of plain
were
fit,
the toes
grow
loth.
high
at the
Tvf
covered by gaiters.
:.'l
could be
made
and
of
young
goats), or kid
and
slippers, called
usually
flat
Rome. These
roman
like the
wont
was laced
sandals worn in ancient
sandal,
delicate shoes
Rubber galoshes
for
walking outdoors.
shoes in the
muddy
weather.
Spatterdashes,
m
i
example
Protection from
Both
The most
Wellington boots,
Duke
became popular
^>
with formal
black shoes.
of Wellington.
mud
gaiters to protect
of the shoe
the leg.
above the
was
fit
under
mud and
oxfords
appeared
kept
it
clean.
in the
1880s. Tliey
had
canvas uppers
and rubber
soles.
sole*.
17
brim
men and
and came
hats
had
tali
of silk or beaver
Top
A wide
worn throughout
the nineteenth
homburgs
century. This
known as
picture
shows
a later style.
sunny days.
hat,
cycling
and
hunting
the
hats.
Women's
hats
mobcaps. These
in the 1700s
soft cloth
women wore
were
<l
the
jgz was
or velvet replaced
silk,
gauze,
a later style.
women
came
The "deerstalker"
visor
18
It
brimmed cap
and was tied beneath
in a variety of styles
the chin.
a cap with
was
ot
could be
made
cottage bonnet
Tin?
was
tall-crowned bonnet
often decorated
from
Silky turbans
were wortt to
fancy parties
in
Mobcaps were
worn at home.
with birds'
nests.
in
many
different styles.
Fancy hats
Smaller hats, which were more fashionable
than practical, became popular in the 1860s.
of the
head by
a long
had
Some
about
this
new
happy
trend.
was popular
Women
ivere
women
spent a great
it.
Cleanliness
a new idea
He urged
us but,
was
England.
in
in the
seems
like
common
sense
them from
disease.
By the end
of the nineteenth
many homes.
and
2.
..".""-,
side.
r$fc&*
3.
By
tied at the
was
in a cluster
of
and feathers.
Near the end of the century, hair was pulled
back from the face. It was fashionable to have the
5-7.
(below)
8.
was
hair
Hair styles
The
were no longer
The
was
side
women
was either
it hung down
curls.
up on top
The hair at
much
simpler styles
pulled
For the
1700s.
nineteenth century,
the middle.
9.
of the head, or
in
new pastime
of going swimming or
enjoyed the
women
covered
bicycle riding
was
popular sport.
a very
Men wore
long stockings.
Women
Sportswear
Both the
all
kinds. Pastimes
What
1860s, however,
women were
involved in
The
from ordinary
worn over
clothes.
It
a white shirt
many
and hunting.
much
consisted of a jacket
and long,
full skirt.
By
Tlie first professional baseball
could
were formed
women
of knickers, a
in the 1870s.
shirt,
teams
uniform
and a visored
gaiters.
same today.
The
first
bathing suits
lakes
and oceans as an
first
baggy
shirt
trousers, over
was worn. A
hair in place.
shorts
and
picture
aid to
good
health.
The
Men's bathing
suits consisted of
bottom
left
Men's sportswear
When taking part in sports, men wore a belted
norfolk jacket and trousers or knickers. On their
feet
W
jl
gaiters.
head warm.
sweater was a
new
Tlie turtleneck
addition to
men's sportswear
%sz?
in the 1890s.
23
At
24
dresses,
During
legs,
-winter, children
Children's clothes
Young girls and boys wore cotton or linen
smocks over pantalets until the age of four. After
that age, girls and boys began to dress more like
their parents. Boys were breeched, which meant
they began to wear trousers. Girls wore dresses
suspenders.
25
worn by
their mothers.
Many
children only
had two
to church
outfits
26
made up
apron on Sundays.
a boy's
Sunday
suit.
it
If a girl
for
and
shirt, trousers,
made up
outfit.
in
A cotton
it
a basic
became
were Scottish
tarns.
kilts
and
suit
braid.
outfit.
throughout the
The zouave
with
collar
age of a
was
girl
shorter.
One
by the length
could easily
of her skirt!
just
tell
the
A girl of
Near
century, girls
wore
full-length skirts.
The
little
women
to those of
women,
(left)
wore
reefer jackets,
including
wore
most
girls also
turned eighteen.
Aprons were
tied
Girls
cloak.
It
was
In the 1890s
brownie
suits. Tltese
overalls,
combined
and
rubber pants,
made
it
move and
play
and
in
bulky suits
dresses.
27
trm
28
Mass-produced fashions
<
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IN'*.
it
lulu
p. -ii,
hull,
The invention
new machines
of
in the
',
in in
I. ii
ilili.in
large quantities.
One
made
be mass-produced, or
of these inventions
was
in,
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Of
made
n.n.
were
no
$:>
railroads
dm
i.
.11
sewing machine.
As
mid
cardinal,
Color?
the
i',l
rllri'l.
li.iluUi'llli'
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sent to people
dow
i
all
ii
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I'll
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ll
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urii-
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mill skirl
Ill
clothes instead of
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upl
luetic* lon,
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IIVU
1*011'
IrnsUlIK color* uf
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lull
sweep
lived
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ported
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On
back
in
around
Each
anil
in
mi
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aaiii
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i
es
'
Spring
Capes,
the right
is
11
ll
i'
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capo,
K'lk
hIkii, sltinilhit;
Collar,
0|iO
brondclolli.
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ill-.
how
wiili
low
to us, they
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much
less in those
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bRcki'ronnd
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Colors
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and na\y
.i ii
laee
blue,
ncli
29
a cotton skirt,
an
mother.
shoulders.
If
you cannot
get a bonnet,
wear a
fruit.
The children
in this picture
two girls
Look through
to lend
in this
you clothes
book.
thai
Glossary
attire clothing, dress
itinerant Describing
someone who
travels
from
place to place
kilt
was
originally
knee-length
skirt,
worn by men
in the Scottish
Highlands
knickers Baggy breeches worn for sports
linsey-woolsey
<i
wool and
linen together
company A
mail-order
the knees
of deer
back of a skirt
camisole A short-sleeved undershirt worn by
women near the end of the nineteenth century
canvas A heavy, coarse material woven from
shoes,
buckskin
Soft leather
made from
the skin
hemp, or flax
chignon A roll of hair at the bat k of
that is composed of braids or Loops
cotton,
the
head
crinoline
A hooped
denim A
department store
pettico.it
work
clothes
wide
double-breasted Describing
coat or waistcoat
soft cloth
An ornament
watch chain
frontier
region of
new
settlement
and calves
person
who
settles in a
new
territory
spats
formal wear
stay
tightly.
was
suspenders
pair of straps
worn over
settles in a
turban
the
new
wool or
country
petticoat
or fur
flannel
pioneer
in
and
the
crinolines
31
Index
frock coat 12, 13
sailor hats 19
sailor suits
sandals 16, 17
galoshes 17
satin
greatcoat 13
Saturday-night bath 20
blanket coat 25
hackle 5
Bloomer, Amelia 10
10, 11, 22
Sears-Roebuck catalog 29
sewing machine 28, 29
shawl 7, 30
blouses
high shoes
apron
30
baseball uniforms 23
bathing 20,22,23
bathing suits 22, 23
beards 21
7, 26, 27,
Beau Brummel
12,
20
bloomers
8, 11,
bodices
bonnets
boots 5,
hats
30
8, 11
7, 18, 19, 27,
6, 7, 13,
box coat
30
16-17, 23, 30
12, 13
brake 5
breeches
17
16,
18
15
hourglass figure 11
hygiene 20
shoemaker 16
shoes
26,
27
23, 27, 30
slippers 16, 17
smocks
knickers 22,23,26,30
6,
25
spatterdashes 17
camisole 14, 15
cape collars 8, 12
capes 22
catalogs 29
chaps 6
lace 8, 9, 10, 11
linsey-woolsey
chignons 21
Mackintosh 12
mail-order companies 29
mass-produced fashions 29
men's fashion 12-13
suspenders 6, 7, 25, 30
tarns 27
tanning leather 5
tennis shoes 17
mobcaps 7, 18
Montgomery Ward catalog 29
morning coat 12, 13
tights 13
mustaches 21
turbans 18, 19
cravats 15
turtleneck sweater 23
overalls 6,27,30
underwear 14-15
cuffs 15
overcoat
union
deerstalker hat 18
oxfords 17
denim
pantaloons 6,
pantalets 25
leather
25
cotton
25, 27, 30
cowboy
hats 6
6,
30
department stores 29
derby hat 18
drawers 14, 15, 27
dresses
6, 7, 8, 22, 25,
5,
13
8, 12,
12, 13
pattens 16, 17
petticoats 11, 14, 15
trousers
suit
flax 4, 5
ready-made clothing 29
30
30
8, 16, 18
watches
13
weaving
4, 5, 16
whiskers
women's
15
21
clothing 8-1
reefer jacket 27
18
15
whalebone
32
12,
Wellington boots 17
pinafores 26, 27
roman sandal
27
30
top hats
velvet
4, 5,
6, 7, 18, 19,
pioneers
straw hats
27
26, 27, 30
flounces
sportswear 22-23
8, 11
Levi's 6
clogs 17
coats
spinning 4
17
5, 6, 16,
leg-of-mutton sleeve
linen 5,
30
kid leather 17
kilts 27
26
8, 9, 17,
shift 14
jeans 6
6, 13,
18-19, 30
homburg 18
hooped skirts
jackets
27
brownie suit 27
buckskin 5, 6
bustles
6, 7, 11,
27
16, 17
2
14
5 6 7 8
40
Printed
in
the
USA
210987654
*-SE5WB
The
Gristmill
Home
Crafts
The Kitchen
Visiting a Village
A Colonial Town
Williamsburg
Colonial Life
ISBN 0-86505-493-2