Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
23.10.2008
15:59 Uhr
H. Eberle
H. Hermeling
Seite 1
M. Hornberger
R. Kilgus
R. Kupke
D. Menzer
A. Moll
W. Ring
Clothing
Technology
....from fibre to fashion
Fifth Edition
001-007 Vorspann
23.10.2008
15:59 Uhr
Seite 2
Authors:
Hannelore Eberle
Director of Studies
Ravensburg
Hermann Hermeling
Frankfurt
Marianne Hornberger
Diplom-Modellistin, Lecturer
Munich
Renate Kupke
Senior Lecturer
Stuttgart
Dieter Menzer
Dipl.-Ing (FH)
Nussloch
Andrea Moll
Instructor
Darmstadt
Werner Ring
Metzingen
This book was produced according to the latest German Industrial Standards (DIN-Bltter). Conformance is strictly limited
to the DIN-Bltter. The DIN-Bltter are published by: Beuth-Verlag GmbH, Burggrafenstrasse 6, 10787 Berlin.
ISBN 978-3-8085-6225-3
All rights reserved. This work is subject to copyright. Utilisation for any purpose other than those legally permitted must be
approved by the publisher in writing.
2008 Verlag Europa-Lehrmittel, Nourney, Vollmer GmbH & Co. KG, D-42781 Haan-Gruiten
http://www.europa-lehrmittel.de
Cover design: Grafic & Sound, Klaus Gierden, D-50679 Kln, after an illustration by Barbara Spannagel, D-72768 Reutlingen
Setting & layout: Satz+Layout Werkstatt Kluth GmbH, D-50374 Erftstadt
Printing: B.o.s.s. Druck und Medien GmbH, D-47574 Goch
001-007 Vorspann
23.10.2008
Preface
9th German
Edition
15:59 Uhr
Seite 3
This is a vocational book, directed primarily at students of the clothing industry: cutting, sewing,
and assembly for fashion and mass markets. However, it will also be found useful in courses for
managers and technologists, and as a general reference work.
A key feature of the book is its concise and compact design a prerequisite for summarising such
a wide range of material in a single volume. Each page is complete in itself. Particular emphasis
has been laid on providing a simple layout and straightforward language, which students will find
easy to grasp. Numerous colour diagrams are an effective aid to the comprehension of some of
the more difficult topics. These coloured illustrations are a particularly useful feature of the chapters on Fabric Descriptions and the History of Clothing.
The book is organised largely according to the different technological sectors, but teaching requirements have also been kept in mind. There are eleven chapters:
Fibres, Yarns, Fabrics, Textile Finishing, Fabric Descriptions, Leather and Fur, Clothing
Manufacture, Organisation of Clothing Manufacture, Product Design, Product Groups,
History of Clothing.
The arrangement of topics conforms to the educational guidelines and the current curricula for
courses in vocational technology in the German Federal States. An important objective of this
publication was to present the extensive body of knowledge as a coherent whole. At all stages,
account is taken of the latest scientific findings and the practical experience of the industry, as well
as any relevant DIN standards.
Improvements for the 9th Edition: The sections on Textile Aftercare, Functional Clothing, Ecology,
Seam Types, Health & Safety, and Fusing have been rewritten or extended according to the latest
technical developments. Many illustrations have been enhanced by the use of colour or changed
to reflect current fashion trends.
We would like to give special thanks to the companies and associations listed on page 304 for their
assistance in the clarification of questions and for the provision of pictorial material. We are
especially indebted to Sonja Langer-Korsch and Susanne Kolb-Wachtel (leather and fur), and Hannes Dllel (fashion drawings) for their helpful suggestions.
Many clothing companies today employ offshore manufacturing. Therefore, it is useful to note
that Fachwissen Bekleidung has been translated into English (Clothing Technology) and from
there into several other European languages. Maybe this can provide some stimulus to intra- and
extra-European communication via the language of technology. The new generation will need
competence in both language and technology to succeed in an era of global market competition.
We would welcome any suggestions for improving or supplementing the material in this book.
Metzingen, Summer 2007
Preface
5th English
Edition
Fachwissen Bekleidung is now in its ninth edition and has been a firm favourite in the Germanspeaking area of Europe since it first appeared in 1989. So far as we are aware, the book is unique in its scope and presentation, so it was perhaps natural that a demand should arise for an
English-language version.
Although this English edition follows quite faithfully the general content and layout of the German, it is not always a precise translation. There are several instances in the original where the
treatment of the subject matter naturally has a distinctively central-European bias. In the English,
an attempt has been made to present a more international perspective. Wherever possible, ISO
or ASTM standards have been referenced rather than DIN. For an international readership, there
is always the problem of whether to use British or North American terminology. For this edition,
wherever there is a conflict between the British and American traditions, the British has generally
been selected, although the American is often acknowledged and occasionally preferred. The
German approach to Work Measurement has been retained, as a valid and comprehensive example of the technique. Sections 9.6 to 9.9 of Product Design have been completely rewritten for
the English edition.
Stockport, Autumn 2008
001-007 Vorspann
23.10.2008
15:59 Uhr
Seite 4
Contents
3.2.5
3.2.6
3.2.7
3.2.8
Crpe Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fabrics with Three Yarn Systems . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fabrics with Four or More Yarn Systems . . . . .
Piqu Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
80
81
83
84
3.3
3.3.1
3.3.2
3.3.3
Knitted Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Classification of Knitted Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . .
Weft Knitted Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Warp Knitted Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
85
85
86
92
3.4
3.4.1
3.4.2
3.4.3
Special Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Open-work Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Nonwoven Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stitch-bonded and Tufted Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . .
94
94
95
97
3.5
98
4.1
Fundamentals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
99
4.2
Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
100
4.3
4.3.1
4.3.2
4.3.3
Coloration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Dyeing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Dyestuffs, Colour Fastness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Printing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
101
101
102
103
4.4
4.5
4.5.1
4.5.2
Finishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Mechanical Finishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Chemical Finishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
4.6
5.1
5.2
5.3
5.3.1
5.3.2
5.3.3
5.3.4
Accessories, Trimmings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Interlinings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Linings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ribbons and Decorations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fastenings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Spinning Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wool Spinning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cotton Spinning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Other Spinning Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6.1
6.2
6.3
6.4
6.5
6.6
6.7
Leather Manufacture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Leather Types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Leather Garment Manufacture . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fur Types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pelt Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pelt Finishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
From Pelt to Fur Clothing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Yarn Numbering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
2.8
Yarn Properties . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
7.1
2.9
Sewing Threads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Textile Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
7.1.1
7.1.2
7.1.3
7.1.4
7.1.5
7.1.6
7.1.7
7.1.8
7.1.9
7.1.10
Fibres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
1.1
Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.2
Natural Fibres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
1.2.1
1.2.2
1.2.3
1.2.4
1.2.5
1.2.6
Cotton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Flax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Other Vegetable Fibres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Wool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Hair Fibres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Silk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
1.3
Man-made Fibres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
1.3.1
1.3.2
1.3.3
1.3.4
1.3.5
1.3.6
1.3.7
1.3.8
1.3.9
1.3.10
1.3.11
1.3.12
1.3.13
1.4
1.5
Fibre Blending . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
1.6
Textile Labelling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
1.7
Textile Aftercare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
1.8
Functions of Clothing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
1.8.1
1.8.2
1.8.3
1.9
Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
2.1
Fundamentals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
2.2
2.2.1
2.2.2
2.2.3
2.2.4
2.3
2.4
Fancy Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
2.5
Textured Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
2.6
2.7
25
26
27
28
29
31
32
33
34
36
38
39
40
60
60
62
63
3.1
Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
3.2
Woven Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
3.2.1
3.2.2
3.2.3
3.2.4
71
74
75
79
131
131
132
133
134
135
137
138
139
140
141
141
144
145
147
149
150
152
153
154
155
156
001-007 Vorspann
7.2
7.2.1
7.2.2
7.2.3
7.2.4
7.2.5
7.2.6
7.2.7
7.2.8
7.2.9
7.2.10
7.2.11
7.2.12
7.2.13
7.2.14
7.2.15
7.2.16
7.2.17
7.2.18
23.10.2008
15:59 Uhr
Seite 5
158
159
160
161
162
164
166
168
169
170
172
173
174
176
177
178
183
10
10.1
10.2
10.3
10.4
10.5
10.6
Skirts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
10.7
Blouses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
10.8
Dresses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
10.9
184
185
186
187
7.3
7.3.1
7.3.2
11
11.1
7.4
11.2
Fashion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
7.4.1
7.4.2
Pressing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
Fusing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
11.3
11.4
7.5
11.5
11.6
11.7
11.8
Romanesque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
11.9
Gothic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268
8.1
Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
8.2
8.3
8.4
8.5
8.6
8.7
8.8
8.9
8.10
8.11
8.12
9.1
9.2
9.3
9.4
9.5
9.6
Proportion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
9.7
9.8
9.9
10
11
008-057 Kapitel 1
23.10.2008
15:27 Uhr
Seite 17
Fibres
Classification of Wool
There are hundreds of different types and breeds of sheep. They are classified according to their wool into five basic types:
Fine, Medium, Crossbred, Long, and Coarse.
Wool Type
Fine
Medium, Crossbred
Long, Coarse
Merino, Rambouillet
Southdown, Corriedale
coarse, over 30 m
50 120 mm
120 150 mm
over 150 mm
highly crimped
normal crimp
Argentina, Uruguay
carpets, traditional
furniture coverings
Breed (examples)
Fineness,
Diameter
Length
Crimp, Waviness
Sources (examples)
Applications
1)
1 m = 1 millionth of a metre = 10 6 m
Apart from its fineness, length, crimp, and breed, wool can also be classified according to:
Shearing: Lambswool is from the first shearing, after six months, whilst Yearling wool is from the first or second shear after
10-12 months. They are fine, soft, not very strong, with fine tips. Six-month, Eight-month, Twelve-month wools are from
sheep shorn at intervals of 6, 8 or 12 months.
Source: Australian, New Zealand, etc. Cape wool is from South Africa; Shetland is typical coarse wool from Scotland.
Recycling: Recovered Wool is wool that has been recovered mechanically by teasing apart production waste and secondhand clothing. Recovered wool is damaged and is of low quality.
Extraction: Virgin wool is from living, healthy sheep or lambs. Dead wool, Fallen wool is from sheep that have died from
natural causes. Skin wool has been taken from the skins of slaughtered sheep.
Spinning: Worsted wool is usually fine Merino, spun into fine, smooth, uniform, combed yarns. The very finest and most expensive wools are made into extra-fine combed yarns designated as super 100s to super 200s. Woollens are heavier, more
voluminous yarns prepared on the woollen spinning system. Carpet wool is long, coarse wools for carpet yarns.
protein macromolecule
fibrils
fibrillar bundles
spindle
cells
scales
17
008-057 Kapitel 1
23.10.2008
15:28 Uhr
Seite 57
Fibres
Label
Requirements
Label
Requirements
GREEN-COTTON is a trademark
of a Danish textile company
specialising in environmentally
friendly and socially responsible
production. The cotton is either
certified organic or sustainable.
It is hand-picked and contains
no pesticide residues. The latest
technology is used at all stages
of manufacture to minimise
environmental impacts.
NATURTEXTIL is a label of a
German industry association. It
embodies strict ecological and
social requirements throughout
the manufacturing chain. Only
natural fibres or animal products
that have been produced under
strictly organic regimes are
allowed. Organic certification is
required at all stages.
MEDICALLY TESTED is a
designation devised by a German
research institute, based on a
specific series of laboratory tests
based on challenging human
cells with an extract from the
textile to give an assessment of
skin tolerance.
Ecolog is a trademark of a
German company that
specialises in weatherproof
clothing. They have developed
garments in which every
component fabrics, linings,
membranes, zippers, padding,
buttons is made from pure
polyester. This means that at
the end of its life, the garment
can be reduced to polyester
chips for re-use, e.g. in
bottles.
57
058-070 Kapitel 2
23.10.2008
15:18 Uhr
Seite 66
Yarns
filaments
feed rolls
heating zone
twister
delivery rolls
Air-jet texturing
yarn feed
air jet
entanglement zone
Stuffer-box texturing
The yarn is drawn through a heated zone whilst a predetermined, high level of false twist is inserted followed
by cooling and untwisting. The heat softens the filaments
and the deformation imparted by the twist is permanently set during cooling.
delivery
rolls
heated
stuffer box
Knit-deknit texturing
knitting
setting
unravelling
23.10.2008
15:21 Uhr
Seite 93
Textile Fabrics
Locknit
Locknit (charmeuse) is a combination
1 plain stitches. On one
of tricot and 2
side the fabric displays distinct wales of
small face loops; the other side shows
the zigzag formation of the underlaps.
It is made from filament yarns which give
the characteristic lustre. Applications:
linings, interlinings, lingerie (Figures 1,
2, 3).
1: Locknit,
schematic
3: Locknit, back
Raschel Net
Nowadays, net fabric is almost always
made on raschel machines. It is a combination of pillar and tricot stitches.
Raschel net is most popular in bridal
wear (Figure 6).
4: Warp knitted terry
Raschel Lace
Raschel lace fabrics are often made on
a base of net fabric with a pattern
formed from inlay yarns. They are used
for foundation and lingerie, bridal and
formal wear, and as trimmings (Figure 7).
6: Raschel net
7: Raschel lace
93
099-109 Kapitel 4
23.10.2008
15:27 Uhr
Seite 109
polymer blade
fabric
curing chamber
curing chamber
fabric
paper collection
polymer
paper
Applications
sporting, protective, working clothing;
highly-visible (fluorescent) clothing;
shoe uppers, leather cloth;
handbags and luggage;
furniture and automobile seat coverings;
bookbinding, maps, albums;
3: Coated fabric
4: Protective clothing
Lamination
blade
fabric
polymer
fabric
5: Adhesive lamination
flame heating
fabric
foam
6: Foam lamination
109
110-134 Kapitel 5
23.10.2008
15:19 Uhr
Seite 133
Fabric Descriptions
A garment is made not only from the apparel fabric but also various accessory items. These have to be chosen in such a way
that they complement the outer fabric both aesthetically, in terms of decoration, and practically, in terms of ensuring that the
garment performs as expected in its intended end use.
The manufacture of ribbons, tapes, and decorations is similar to that of textile fabrics; weaving, knitting, braiding, or nonwoven
techniques. In many cases, different patterning elements are combined such as fibre and colour effects, structure and finishing.
The commercial names for ribbons often follow from the application or the structure, for example piping ribbon, velvet ribbon.
Decorative ribbons (trimmings) are also used for ornamentation.
Trimmings
General name for a patterned, woven or knitted ribbon in cotton, silk, wool,
or man-made fibre.
Scalloping,
Rick-rack
Elastic tape
1: Trimming
2: Scalloping, Rick-rack
Buttonhole tape
Piping
Cotton or linen plain woven ribbon about 1 cm wide, used as a tailoring aid
for edges, reveres, and collars.
Moir ribbon
Cotton, silk or man-made fibre ribbon with a moir pattern for hat bands
and bows.
Seaming tape
Welted tape
Ribbed tape
Cotton, silk, or viscose tape with pronounced ribs for decoration or for
waistbands.
Velvet ribbon
Bias binding
Tape cut on the bias (diagonally) in various widths and materials, plain or
patterned, either flat or folded for use as binding.
Stamped tape
Interlining tape with pre-stamped marks to show sewing width and seam
allowance. Aids more efficient working.
Taffeta ribbon
Galloon
Fringes
A narrow edging of projecting yarns which are not woven into the fabric,
in viscose, wool, or silk.
Cords
Circular braided materials of various thickness in viscose, cotton or synthetics. Used as decoration for clothing, in household textiles, and in
sporting goods.
Tassels
Rosettes
Soutache
A mouldable flat braid with two ribs in silk or viscose used for formal clothes.
Pompons
3: Elastic tape
4: Buttonhole tape
5: Welted tape
6: Galloon
Decorations
7: Decorations
133
144-191 Kapitel 7
23.10.2008
15:30 Uhr
7 Clothing Manufacture
7.2 Equipment and Methods
for Sewing
Seite 159
Applications
Straight seams, zigzag seams
(see pages 170 to 173).
1: Lockstitch
machine
2: Chain stitch
machine
3: Multi-thread chain
stitch machine
5: Linking machine
6: Overedge machine
Specialised sewing
operations (see page 185).
159
202-222 Kapitel 8
23.10.2008
15:26 Uhr
Seite 204
Organisation of
Clothing Manufacture
The clothing industry ranges from small, hand-made (bespoke) operations up to large industrial garment making enterprises.
Industrial production is divided according to
Target groups (women's, men's, and children's wear),
Applications (underwear, shirtings, foundation garments, workwear, and sportswear),
Materials (wovens, flat knits, circular knits).
Bespoke operations are divided along technical lines into men's tailoring, women's tailoring, shirtings, and underwear.
The clothing is made for individual clients, according to individual size and requirements. Particular characteristics of
the client, in terms of the body shape, can be taken into
account during cutting and sewing.
The client selects the material and the design, from sample
swatches and fabric collections. The cut and the style is
agreed by discussion with the tailor, before cutting begins.
Bespoke tailoring involves a much higher investment of
time for each garment, and is correspondingly more expensive than industrial manufacture. However, the client is
usually rewarded by a more individual design and a higher
quality of material and workmanship
Womenswear
Children's wear
Workwear, Sportswear
jackets
trousers
suits
formal wear
uniforms
waistcoats
coats
traditional costume
blouses
dresses
skirts
jackets
coats
trousers & trouser-suits
evening wear
wedding dresses
traditional costume
babywear
jackets
trousers
coats
girls dresses
workwear
sportswear
leisure wear
ski wear
jeans
protective clothing
Knitted Outerwear
Shirtings, Underwear
Accessories
pullovers
twin-sets
jackets & cardigans
knitted dresses
dress shirts
casual shirts
childrens shirts
brassieres
corsetry
support stockings
swim suits
bikinis
swimming trunks
socks
stockings
leggings
scarves
caps
ties
handkerchiefs
nightwear
underwear
lingerie
204
202-222 Kapitel 8
23.10.2008
15:26 Uhr
Seite 205
Organisation of
Clothing Manufacture
Batch Production
Mass Production
202-222 Kapitel 8
23.10.2008
15:26 Uhr
Seite 212
Organisation of
Clothing Manufacture
Production management provides all of the tools that are required for the smooth and economic operation of manufacturing
processes. It regulates the interaction in space and time between people, equipment, information and resources to achieve the
objectives of the manufacturing system (page 209). A principle concern is the flow of work in progress and information.
The following tasks are of particular significance.
Determining the time sequence of the required processes
Timely provision of materials and equipment
Timely provision of information
Every manufacturing company has a production program to follow. For a garment maker, the production program is embodied
in the collection plan. The collection is the range of products that will be manufactured for marketing in a particular season
(page 224).
The Production department co-ordinates the development of new products, the procurement of materials and their processing,
and the control of quality throughout manufacture
The Processing (Making-up) department is responsible for the processes that complete the work to be done. It is responsible for
production planning and control.
Production planning
Product
Colours
Sizes
Quality targets
Processing Tools
Sketches, Style concepts
Data Sources
Forms description
Style patterns
Making instructions
Technical drawings
Calculations
Parts lists
Style specification
Style
components
Block
patterns
Material
records
Equipment
records
Scheduling
records
Quality
handbook
Cutting lists
Materials lists
Cutting instructions
Making plans
Quality
specifications
Balance plan
Production control
Process schedule
(sequence of subprocesses)
Progress control
(task-dependent)
Quantities
Deadlines
Quality control
Production plan
(task-dependent)
Making-up
212
Task
Quality control
plan
Progress plan
Week 11
2
3
H&O
Maier
Khnel
Grotz
M. Shne
Eberle
Menzer
L&N
Progress plan
223-231 Kapitel 9
23.10.2008
15:25 Uhr
Seite 223
9 Product Design
Marketing is a collection of activities that include market research, consumer surveys, and customer service. The objective is to
arrive at a collection of products for sale in the future and then to promote this collection in the market. The ultimate goal is a
collection that can be produced for minimum risk and maximum return.
Target Groups
A target group is an identifiable sector of consumers with broadly similar characteristics, such as fashion consciousness,
buying habits, types of shops used, brand awareness, brand loyalty and quality requirements. A target group can be defined
according to the following criteria.
Attitude and Lifestyle
Womenswear
Menswear
Menswear
Anti-fashion, no demands
Avant-garde
Avant-garde
Nonconformist
Fashion conscious
Young fashions
Prestige oriented
Untidy youthful
Jeans type
Jeans type
Not to be tempted
Career woman
Career man
Careful, unsophisticated
No particular orientation
Modern woman
Modern man
Smart, conservative
Conventional, unsophisticated
Youthful
Youthful
Cultured
Businessman
Smart
Formal
Middle of road
Middle of road
Bargain hunter
Bargain hunter
Young, trendy
Quality Level
Quality level is the other factor that determines the market sector towards which a collection will be aimed. The quality level
defines the rank of the product in the total range of offers in the market, so far as its design content and workmanship are concerned. The following factors, for example, have an influence.
Fabric quality
Workmanship in the interior parts
Style and Fit
high
Fashion content
Precision of assembly
Range of sizes and number of pieces
The following quality levels can be distinguished
Exclusivity
Designer
High quality
Upper middle
Middle
The Middle level has strict price constraints, a comprehensive size range, but a limited range of styles.
Bottom, discount store
low
Quantity
1: Clothing quality levels
223