Introduction to

Rope Rescue
Julius Horvath
26 April 2002
horvathjt@juno.com

Training Objectives
Familiarize AVFRD Personnel to
Technical Rope Rescue

Capabilities & Limitations

Equipment
Software Ropes, Webbing & Knots
Hardware

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Support Roles & Responsibilities

Training Agenda
Overview of Technical Rescue
Equipment Basics: Uses, Capabilities &
Limitations

Software: Ropes & Webbing

Knots

Hardware

Rescue Engine 6 Equipment

Your Roles & Responsibilities as Support

Personnel
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Training Notes
Variety of methods may be employed in
Technical Rope Rescue

Must be familiar with local standards

Get everyone to train together (coordinated)

Will focus on NFPA Standards but will also

present NATRS & UIAA Standards

The only RIGHT Way is the SAFE Way

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Technical Rescue
Technical Rescue is inherently dangerous and
requires many hours of training and practice before it
is attempted by anyone. This course is designed to
familiarize personnel with how they can effectively
work in a supporting role during a technical or semitechnical rescue operation. It is not designed to
prepare the student for performing rescue operations
without the supervision of a Rope Rescue Technician.
Students of this course should obtain additional
training including extensive practice in High Angle
Rope Rescue.

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Technical Rescue Definitions

Technical Rescue Rescue performed in a High Angle

environment requiring rope and related equipment (Vertical
Rescue)
High Angle When the angle of the terrain becomes so steep that

the weight of the litter is supported primarily by the rope rather then
the tender

Semi-Technical Rescue Low Angle Rescue where litter team

supports majority of load with their legs & rope system used to
facilitate movement & fall protection
NFPA #1995 Standard - Fire Service Life Safety: Ropes,
Harnesses & Hardware (equipment and minimum qualifications)
Rescue Quality (R/Q) equipment designed & manufactured
for life safety and support meeting NFPA minimum standards
Rescue Load Defined by NATRS as 200kg (440#) load for the
purposes of comparative testing representing weight of stretcher,
subject, rescuer and gear

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Technical Rescue Definitions

Belay Rope the line/rope designated to provide fall protection

Dynamic high stretch rope
Rope designed to absorb energy of a fall
High Stretch 20-40% (UIAA rated for number of falls)
Sudden increase in load on system (e.g., fall arrested by belay)
Static low stretch rope
< 20% elongation at breaking load
< 2% elongation with 200# load; 2-3% with 300# load
NATRS North American Technical Rescue Symposium sponsored
jointly by NASAR & MRA
NASAR North American Search & Rescue
MRA Mountain Rescue Association
UIAA Union of International Alpine Associations

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NFPA Loads & Safety Factors

Static Loads

1 Person Load 300 lbs. (Personal use)

2 Person Load 600 lbs. (General use)

Safety Factors

Life Safety Margin = 15:1

1 Person Rope T/S 4,500 lbs (3/8 or 9.5 mm diam)
2 Person Rope T/S 9,000 lbs (1/2 or 12.7 mm diam)
3 Person Rope T/S 13,500 lbs (5/8 or 15.8 mm diam)

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Harnesses = 10:1

Static Load Calculations

Quick Rule of Thumb Calculations
NATRS

1 Person Load = 100 kg = 220#

1 kN on System

2 Person Load = 200 kg = 440#

2 kN on System

NFPA

2 Person Load = 600# = 273 kg

3 kN on System (actual 2.7 kN )

1,000 lbs 4.5kN

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Software
Ropes

Knots

Webbing

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Slings

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Rescue Ropes & Webbing

Materials

Nylon primary fiber used for rescue & sport

climbing
Pros: high strength, abrasion resistance, shock absorption,

and reasonable cost.

Cons: up to 15% strength loss plus significant weight gain
when nylon fibers absorb water

Polyester similar to nylon w/ some differences:

Pros: strong, good abrasion resistance, minimal water

absorption, high resistance to UV degradation from sunlight

Cons: low stretch, poor shock loading absorption

Polypropylene used for water rescue throwlines

Pros: floats on water; good resistance to chemicals
Cons: low strength & durability; low resistance to sunlight

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Rope Fiber Comparison Chart

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Rope Construction, Use & Care

Construction

Laid Generally three-strand construction; no longer used for

rescue
Kernmantle ropes with core (kern) and sheath (mantle);
most common construction in rescue
Core is primary load bearing part of rope (70%-90% load)
Sheath holds core bundles together & protects rope

Use & Care

Do not step on ropes

Keep them clean; free from oil, grease & chemicals
Protect from UV (sunlight)
Protect from sharp objects
Keep a rope usage log
Inspect regularly

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Rope Categories
Category I Safe for emergency operations

Unused
< 5 years old
Inspected at least quarterly & documented
Conforms to NFPA #1995

Category II Safe for emergency operations if:

< 10 years old

Inspected & documented at least quarterly
Never been shock loaded
Never been exposed to heat > 200 deg or to chemicals

Category III Non-Life Support Rope

Any rope > 10 years old regardless of condition

Fails any of the provisions of Category II
This rope must be destroyed or black tagged

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Knot Terminology
Bight formed when the rope is doubled back, but does not
cross
Loop formed when the rope doubles back and crosses
itself
Working End end of rope used to tie knot; inactive end
Standing End part of rope attached to something, usually
an anchor
Knot generic term for any knot that is not a hitch or bend
Bend knot that connects ends of 2 ropes together
Hitch knot that attaches rope to another object (including
another rope if host rope is not part of the knot)

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Rule of Knots
A Knot is not a Knot until it is Tied Off

All rescue systems are backed up meaning that all

knots used in those systems are also backed up.
Always Use safety knots. (Exceptions: mid-rope
knots & Double Fishermans used for Prusik Hitch)

A neat Knot is a Happy Knot

Neatness counts when tying knots

Dressing the knot makes it stronger and easier to
check

(A Knot can reduce rope strength by up to 50%)

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Knot Breaking Strength

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Overhand Knot
This simple knot and
its cousin the barrel
knot can be used to
back up another
knot. All knots
should be backed
up.

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Square Knot
Uses

Seat Harness

Cautions

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Wrong = Granny
Knot

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Bowline
Uses

This knot is used to make

a fixed (non-slip) loop in
the end of a line
Can be used for leg-loops
in seat harness

Pros

May be tied one handed

Cons

The "rabbit" comes out of the hole,

around the tree, and back down the
hole.

Up to 33% Strength Loss

Cautions

Tail should be inside the

loop
Should be backed up

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Figure-8 Knot
Basic must know
knot for rescue work
Good stopper knot

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Figure-8 Bend/
Follow Through
Bend

Preferred for connecting

2 ropes
Secure, self-tightening
Easier to untie after
loading

Follow Through Loop

Good for tying around

anchors or seat harness

Very Strong when

properly dressed

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It is important to always contour

the knots appropriately. All knots
must also be backed up either with
an overhand or half barrel knot.
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Figure-8 Loop or
Figure-8 on a Bight
Uses

Tie loop at end of

rope
Loop in middle of
rope

Pros

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Much stronger &

more secure than
Bowline
Easy to untie

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Butterfly Knot
Used to tie loop in
middle of rope
where ends carry
load

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Double
Fishermans Knot
Used to make Prusik
loops
Very secure with
minimum size
Self locking
One of few knots
not requiring back
up (but must be set
tight)
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Prusik Hitch
Friction Knot used as
soft rope grab

Climbing rope (ascender)

Movable anchor point for
personal belay
Rope grab in haul system
Handle giving better grip
on rope
Used with Double or
Triple wraps
8mm diam Prusik cord

on Rescue Rope
6 & 7mm Prusiks good
for personal use
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Girth Hitch
Quick way to tie web loop
around anchor point
Con:

20-25% strength loss

Pro:

Grips anchor point to keep

web from sliding

Cautions:

Must make sure load is

transferred tangentially to
anchor point. DO NOT allow
it to cross back on itself.

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Clove Hitch
Good gripping knot

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Wrapping a litter
Tying PT into litter
Improvised low angle
harness to head of
plastic litter rail
Securing Firefighter
tools and ladders
Must back up with
safety knot if loaded

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Munter Hitch
Used with carabiner for
single person belays

Good for emergency

rappels

Effective in both
directions
Works best with pear
shaped carabiner & soft
rope
Used in Load Release

Hitch

Caution: 1 person can

not control a rescue load
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One Way Knot

Ties two ropes together
allowing it to pass through a
pulley in one direction

Knot will pass through pulley in

only one direction due to short
tails on the same side

Caution: still need a knot

passing pulley to make this
work

Not as strong as barrel knot

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Water Knot
Ties webbing
together or single
piece into a loop

Used for anchor

slings & seat
harnesses

Cautions: must set

knot by pulling hard

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Always use safety

knots

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Sheet Bend
Used to tie two ropes of
different thickness
together
Good for hauling
equipment bags
Pro: easy to untie
Con: not rescue capable
Cautions: do not use as
Lifeline
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Hardware
Carabiners

Locking & non-locking

Manual & auto-locking

Shapes

Oval
Pear
D
Offset or Modified D

Materials: Aluminum or Steel

Strongest when loaded on major (long) axis
Always lock carabiner
Lock toward gravity to reduce probability of opening

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Hardware (cont)
Descenders

Figure 8 Descender
Brake Bars

Pulleys

Rescue & Personal use

Prusik Minding
Knot Passing
Self-tending

Anchor Plates
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Hardware (cont)
Rope Grabs & Ascenders

Knots: Prusik Hitch (Soft Ascender)

Ability to absorb higher shock loads

Fail by slipping (non-catastrophic)
No moving parts to fail or jam
Works in either direction

Mechanical Ascenders
Gibbs
Rescuecender
Handled Ascenders (e.g., Jumar)

Equipment Bags
Helmets & Safety Gear
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Basic Gear

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Lowering System

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Raising System

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Litter Packaging
Protect Patient
Allow PT Access
Secure PT to Litter
Secure Litter to Yoke
Secure Yoke to Lifeline
Rescuer/Tender always
secured to system
Number of Litter
Tenders depend on type
of rescue

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Support Roles
Know all rescue equipment by name, sight and
location
Be able & willing to retrieve equipment

Begin basic setup (e.g., tie knots) as directed by

Rescue Technician

Be able to recognize unsafe situations

Know when you are in over your head

Know when someone w/o the requisite training is
attempting to take charge that may jeopardize your
life or someone elses
Draw attention to it
Get additional help & resources (better to wait)

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Support Roles (cont)

Be able to perform a rapid inspection of
all equipment planned for use in rescue
operation (e.g., inspect rope in bag)
Help with quarterly equipment
inspections
Take advanced rope rescue courses

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Wrap-up
Rescue Standards

Loads
Types of equipment

Ropes & Webbing

Knots

Hardware Overview
Tour of RE6 equipment locations
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References
1. High Angle Rescue Techniques; Vines & Hudson; 1992 National
Association for Search & Rescue
2. On Rope; Padgett & Smith; 1987 National Speleological Society
3. CMC Rope Rescue Manual, 3rd Edition; 1992 CMC Rescue Inc.
4. Heavy & Tactical Rescue: Rope Rescue I; 1992 Virginia Department of
Fire Programs
5. Knots on the Web; Peter Suber;
http://www.earlham.edu/~peters/knotlink.htm
6. Appalachian Search & Rescue Conference; Blue Ridge Mountain Search
& Rescue website; http://brmrg.med.virginia.edu/index.html
7. Field Team Leader Course: Technical Rescue; Harrison & Horvath; 1992
Appalachian Search & Rescue Conference, Shenandoah Mountain
Rescue Group

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