Background

Since its inception in 1983 Evince Group has expanded manifold over the years, today it is one
of the most diversified, and independent manufacturing conglomerates in the Apparel and Textile
Industry in Bangladesh. They are involved in all the areas of the Apparel Industry such as textile,
garments, labels, sewing, thread, button and other related accessories. Evince Textile Limited
(ETL) is a sister concern of Evince Group. Their main product is 100% Cotton Yarn Dyed
shirting fabric.
Main clients:

Hennes & Mauritz (H&M)

C&A
Tesco
Carrefour

Product Designs (According to Weave)

Plain or Poplin
Twills
Satin
Product Design

Defacto (Turkey)
CMT (same as

above)
Tema (same as
above)

Checks
Seer Sucker
Oxford

Chambray
Fil-A-Fil
Dobby
Herringbone

Textile Process
1. The Sales team of ETL offers their products to the buyer.
Usually, the buyer has different preferences and they want to incorporate different styles and
patterns into the fabrics
2. The buyer likes the product; sends in a sample through swatch i.e. SS or Computer Aided
Design (CAD).
3. The swatch or CAD is sent over to the ETL factory for analysis. This is mainly because the
factory has limitations and they cannot fully meet the demand specifications of the buyer at
all times. Therefore, the ANALYSIS REPORT is required.
4. Factory sends over Analysis Report to the Marketing Department, which is sent back to the
buyer.
5. The advise to the buyer includes
A. Count Construction (Actual)
B. Suggested Construction The factory cannot always make the actual
construction due to restraints.
C. Fabric Item
D. Width
E. Finish Type
F. Price
G. Projected Quantity
H. Required Delivery Data
I. Fabric Quality Parameter for Testing for Shrinkage, Weight, Variations and
Others (Remarks).
6. Based on the construction, costs are calculated. This is because the yarns have separate
prices per yard on them. After the cost calculation, a mark-up is added to the cost.
7. If the buyer approves the price, they send a PRICE CONFIRMATION REPORT back to
Evitex Limited.
8. The Marketing Department tells the Factory to proceed for Handloom Development. The
lead-time for Handloom is 7 days. Afterwards, the handloom is sent to the buyer.
9. Booking quantity is received from the buyer. Proforma Invoice (P/I) is issued according to
the booking. The buyer opens Letter of Credit.
10. The Handloom Approval is received from the buyer. Production Order is given for bulk
production according to the approved handloom.
11. After 30 days into production, the Marketing Department sends the Pre-Production Sample
And Quality Testing Sample. The Quality Testing Sample contains the Shrinkage, Weight,
Parameters and whether they meet buyer requirement.

12.
13.
14.
15.
16.

Pre-Production Sample is approved by the Buyer.

Delivery of Bulk Production to Buyer or to the Designated Cutter (as mentioned in the L/C).
Submit documents for ACCEPTANCE PURPOSE to the buyer.
ACCEPTANCE received from the buyer.
Submit documents to the Commercial Department of Evince Textiles to be sent to the bank
for collection.

Textile Production
Textile is based on the conversion of 3 different types of fibre into yarn so that they may be
turned into fabrics. FABRIC should be the term used here because fabric is the end result of
weaving. The fabrics are then turned into clothes and other artifacts. Cotton is the most used
fibre in textile manufacturing.
There are six stages of converting cotton to fabrics. These include:

Cultivating and Harvesting

Preparatory Processes
Spinning
Weaving or Knitting
Finishing
Marketing

Cotton can be grown anywhere where there are long hot summers and plenty of humidity.
Planting is from September to mid November and the crop is harvested between March and June.
Cotton is delivered in bales and must be cleaned and opened to be used in production.
The weaving process requires a loom. The lengthways thread are called warp. And the cross
ways threads are called the weft. The warp that must be strong needs to be presented to loom
on a warp beam. The weft passes across the loom in a shuttle, which carries the yarn on a pirn.
The loom automatically changes these pirns. Thus, the yarn needs to be wrapped onto a beam
and onto pirns before weaving can commence.
Winding:
After being spun and plied, the cotton thread is taken to a warping room where the winding
machine takes the required length of yarn and winds it on to warper bobbins.
Warping or beaming:
Racks of bobbins are set up to hold the thread while it is rolled onto the warp bar of a loom.
Because the thread count is fine, often three of these would be combined to get the designed
thread count.
Sizing:

Slasher sizing machine needed for strengthening the warp by adding starch to reduce breakage of
the yarns
Measurements:
Ends and Picks
Picks refer to the weft, ends refer to the warp. The coarseness of the cloth can be expressed as the
number of picks and ends per quarter inch square. Ends is always written first.
Finishing- processing of textiles
The woven cotton fabric in its loom-state, not only contains impurities, including warp size, but
requires further treatment in order to develop its full textile potential. Furthermore, it may
receive considerable added by applying these following finishing processes.

Desizing

Depending on the size that has been used, the cloth may be steeped in a dilute acid and then
rinsed, or enzymes may be used to break down the size.

Mercerising

During this, the fabric is treated with caustic soda solution to cause swelling of the fibres. This
results in improved luster, strength and dye affinity. Cotton is mercerized under tension and all
alkali must be washed out before the tension is released otherwise it will shrink.

Shrinking (Sanforizing)

Yarn Dyeing: Capacity=6000kgs per day.

Facility is fully equipped with a complete lab for shade matching and color development. The
dyeing vessels are the latest model Tong Geng with computerized control system. The vessel
capacities range from 5Kg to 4000Kg. The unique combination of small and large dyeing vessels
contributes extreme flexibility while handling variety of order size, large number of colors and
different types of finishing.
Yarn dyeing is slightly different from woven or knit dyeing. Dyed yarns are used to make for
making stripe knit or woven fabrics or solid dyed yarn fabric or in sweater manufacturing. Yarns
are dyed in package form or hank form.

Pretreatment
Demineralization
Scouring
Drain-Rinse-Drain
Neutralization with acid
Hot wash with peroxide killer
Drain

Dyeing
Levelling Agent
Color dosing
Cooling
Level Check
Soda dosing
Dyeing run

Denim Manufacturing
Denim, unlike many types of clothes, is woven and dyed at one location.
Preparing the cotton yarn
1. There are several steps between ginned cotton (cotton which has been picked from the fields
and processed) and cotton yarn. The incoming cotton is removed from tightly packed bales
and inspected before undergoing a process known as carding. In this process, the cotton is
pushed through machines that contain brushes with bent wire teeth. These brushes-called
card clean, disentangle, straighten and gather.
The denim is dyed first and then woven. The dye used is generally a chemically synthesized
indigo. The denim is dipped in the dye vat several times so that the dye forms many layers.
This explains why blue jeans fade after washing.
The dyed yarn is then slashed. i.e. it is coated with sizing (any one variety of starchy
substances) to
The yard is then woven on large shuttle-less looms. The blue threads are woven together with
white threads, but because the blue threads are packed, closer together than the white ones,
blue color dominates the cloth.

Sample check

Fabrics in Textiles

WARP

WEFT
DETAILS REQUIRED FOR FABRICS
1. Construction and Count
For Example, if the Construction is 120x110. Each number has a different meaning attached
to it.
Ends Per Inch (EPI) = 120
Picks Per Inch (PPI) = 100
Count contains the Thread/Yarn Count for the fabrics i.e. how many counts of thread a
fabric contains per inch. For example, if the count is 40 x 40, there are 40 counts of thread in
the warp and 40 counts of thread in the weft.
Fabrics are made of a variety of yarn count like 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s, 40/2s, 80/2s,
100/2s, 120/2s.
2. Design
Designs are of many different types. These include:
o Gingham- Square Checks
o Chambray- 1 color for warp, 1 color for weft.

o Fil-a-Fil- Alternate color on each warp and each weft.

o Oxford- at least 2 warps yarn parallel.
o Seer-Sucker
3. Color
The color of different fabrics is based on the pantone numbers. These numbers are
universally used and are mentioned with the CAD of the fabrics. This is mainly because the
color of different fabrics might be the same; however, the shade might be different. For
example, the color white might have different shades such as off white, deep and others.
With the pantone numbers, the different shades have different numbers so that there is no
conflict between the buyer and seller.
4. Repeat
In every fabric, the repeat size must be mentioned in centimeters or meters. This is used for
stripe patterns. The design has to be repeated for the entire length of the fabrics. Therefore,
the point at which the pattern or a particular stripe starts to the point where it ends is the
repeat point.