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CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 4 NO.

7 :: DECEMBER 2015

Alls Well That


Ends Well
Holiday Sweets
& Treats
To Devour!

Cream Liqueurs | Holiday Baking | Warming Hot Toddies | Spicy Beers


1

&

For Gifts That Are Always Welcome


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250.490.4965 | winery@bench1775.com | May-Oct 11am-6pm

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14
VOLUME 4 / ISSUE #7 DECEMBER 2015

Features
14




Ending On A Sweet Note


How are you planning to finish your
holiday meal? These five farmers
market vendors have dessert
treats galore
by Diana Ng

22




24



Kettle Valley Winery


Photography Contest
Results from our workshop
competition winner
by Linda Garson

40 Old Man Winter


Does icewine age?

by Tom Firth

30 Pairing Pitfalls
Classic meals and the elements

to avoid

by Matthew Browman
33

3 Apple Desserts
To warm your soul this winter
by Natalie Findlay

36 Cream of the Crop


The luxury of cream liqueurs

by Steve Goldsworthy
38

A New Tradition
Oh my Carrot Pie!
by Christa Bedwin

Holiday Gift Guide


Not sure what to get for the
foodies and beverage lovers in
your life? We have 15 great
gift ideas for you!
by Linda Garson

42 Making the Case


Wines to impress your palate

by Tom Firth
44 The Hot Toddy
With the sweet heat of rum

by Patricia Koyich
46 Spice Up The Holidays
with these beers!

by David Nuttall
48 Chocolate Porter Brownies

For Winter

by Natalie Findlay

Departments
6

Salutes and Shout Outs

Ask Culinaire

Book Review

10

Potluck Party Menu Gems

12

Soup Kitchen

16

Chefs Tips and Tricks!

20 Step-By-Step:

The Ultimate Yule Log
28 5 Ways to Spice Up

Nanaimo Bars

On the Cover:

50 Open That Bottle


Gwendolyn Richards of

The Calgary Herald

by Linda Garson

Cookie crisis! Many thanks to Stephanie Eddy


for baking and decorating our fun holiday
cookies, and to Dan Clapson for his ideas
and art direction of Ingrid Kuenzels
fabulous photograph!

Letter From The Editor


Im very grateful for all the feedback
weve received this year, which has
helped us steer Culinaire in the direction
youve asked for. Ive been listening
closely, and I really feel weve made great
strides, even as the new kids, and it feels
great to be respected and appreciated for
our efforts. Thanks to all of you who have
been in touch, you cant even imagine
how heart-warming it is to receive emails
like the excerpts from the two here that
Ive included at the end.
Alls well that ends well indeed, and Im
delighted to say that at Culinaire, were
ending the year very well.
Even in challenging economic times,
its been a great year for the Calgary
food and beverage scene, with so many
excellent new eateries and places to drink
opening up. Look how far our cocktail
culture has come in the last year we
have more options now than Ive ever
seen in my time in the city and theyre
quality choices too. Its an exciting time!

And I couldnt possibly finish the year


without thanking everybody who has
made Culinaire possible: our advertisers
and supporters, our editors, our talented
contributors of words and photographs,
and of course, our readers.
I hope its a very happy holiday time for
you, and look forward to hearing from
you in 2016.
Cheers,
Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

From Culinaire readers:


We wanted to drop you a quick note
to let you know how exceptional we
both found this months magazine.
We normally enjoy the content but
this months really hit the mark for
us. Thanks for the work you do to
spread the good word of wining and
dining in Calgary!
Frank S, Calgary
I enjoyed looking at and reading
The Results of the 2015 Alberta
Beverage Awards in the October
issue. It turns out some of the
winners are favorites of mine.
Thanks to your article there are
many others I checked off to look
for and add to the collection. As a
native Calgarian who appreciates
dining out as well as cooking
dinners at home, I relate to your
publication and read every issue
cover to cover.
Cheryl W, Calgary

Easy is a beautiful thing.

#stepintoitaly
Willow Park 9919 Fairmount Drive SE | italiancentre.ca @italianctrYYC | 403-238-4869
4

CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES


Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson
linda@culinairemagazine.ca
Commercial Director: Keiron Gallagher
403-975-7177
sales@culinairemagazine.ca

Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson
dan@culinairemagazine.ca
Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth
tom@culinairemagazine.ca
Digital Media Editor: Lynda Sea
web@culinairemagazine.ca
Contributing Photographer: Ingrid Kuenzel
Design: Emily Vance
Contributors: Christa Bedwin
Matthew Browman
Natalie Findlay
Mallory Frayn
Steve Goldsworthy
Renee Kohlman
Patricia Koyich
Karen Miller
Diana Ng
Dave Nuttall
Lynda Sea

To read about our talented team of


contributors, please visit us online at
culinairemagazine.ca.

Contact us at:
Culinaire Magazine
#1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW
Calgary, AB T2P 0G9
403-870-9802
info@culinairemagazine.ca
www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine
Twitter: @culinairemag
Instagram: culinairemag
For subscriptions, competitions and
to read Culinaire online:
culinairemagazine.ca

Our Contributors
< Mallory
Frayn

Mallory is a food
writer and Ph.D.
studentliving and
learning in Montreal.
She loves to combine
her two passions,
food and psychology,
tohelp people
develop healthier relationships with food. Her
site,becauseilikechocolate.com, aims to do
just that (and obviously chocolate is always
included).When she isnt busy with researchor
writing, Mallory is mostlikely jogging, oreating
(or both!) her way aroundMontreal. Follow her
on Twitter and Instagram@cuzilikechoclat

< Matt
Browman

Bartending in Japan in
the early 90s brought
Matt, in a roundabout
way, to the beginning
of a vinous obsession in
Niagara-on-the-Lake,
where upon completion
of an English Literature
BA he accepted a beverage management position
for which he was sorely unqualified. Having
completed the ISG Diploma, WSET Diploma, as
well as the Court of Master Sommeliers Advanced
Diploma, Matts career has taken him through
restaurant, retail, education, journalism and judging
as well as many of the worlds wine-growing regions.

< Rene
Kohlman

Rene Kohlman is a
food writer and pastry
chef living in beautiful
Saskatoon. Her blog,
sweetsugarbean.com,
is a combination of her
favourite things: cooking,
food photography and
writing, and she considers herself superfortunate
to make a living doing what she loves.Rene writes
restaurant reviews for The Saskatoon StarPhoenix,
and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside
Country Club.Her affection for bacon, butter,
and living room dance parties is legendary.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or
corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazines Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca.
All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against
any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by
Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited
manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

Salutes...
Congrats to Pascals Patisserie!

And to The Nashs Matt Batey

Major Milestone for Mealshare!

Our local artisanal French take-andbake pastry maker has won the Globe
and Mails Small Business Challenge
Award for the region, from a record
3,300+ applicants. Having eaten far
more than our fair share of his fabulous
croissants, we know why!

Gold Medal Plate Champion, who will


now compete in the gruelling national
event in Kelowna. Jinhee Lee, of Hotel
Arts Raw Bar, took silver, and for the
very first time, there was a tie for bronze
between Workshops Kenny Kaechele
and Shaun Desaulniers of ChefBar.

In November, Mealshare provided their


500,000th meal to someone in need
halfway on their Road to 1 Million! To
celebrate, 10 Calgary restaurants joined
the program, making a total of 48 local
restaurants offering the opportunity to
turn dining out into helping out.

and Shout Outs...


Welcome Ace Coffee & Diner
Now open in West Springs, this 45
seat, all-day breakfast upscale caf
from seasoned Calgary restaurateurs,
Kam and Raj Dhillon, has the vibe of a
cool downtown diner but in the burbs!
Expect an elevated diner and coffee
experience, with trained baristas serving
up Phil & Sebastian coffee seven days
a week. Ace is family-orientated on
Tuesdays, kids eat for $5 all day, and
drip coffee is $1 all day Mondays. Stay
and enjoy some of the home-style
baked goodies or grab em and go.

And to Home and Away


a food focused/sports inspired
restaurant in the old Moxies spot
on 17 Avenue SW, from the minds
behind CRAFT Beer Market. Enjoy
Exec Chef Mike Pigots menu of
classic feel-good cuisine, with all
antibiotic- and hormone-free meat
and veggies from within 30K of
Calgary, and admire designer Sara
Wards wall of skateboards from 50s
and 60s, and the reclaimed gym floor
from a local elementary school. Eat,
drink, but dont leave without trying
your hand at one of the vintage Skee
Ball and Pop-a-Shot machines!

Neils Yard Remedies


have opened a new store in
Southcentre, where you can find
their new range of 100% organic
and Soil Association certified herbal
6

teas. This could be a good month for


the Echinacea Plus Tea to keep your
immune system healthy and stave off
winter colds!

Fine and Dandy


Albertas smallest brewery, the multi
awardwinning Dandy Brewing
Company has opened their brand new
tasting room. Tours, beers, and
special events are now available for craft
beer fans at the source. 8 taps feature
Dandy mainstays and seasonals, and also
limited releases and one-off brewery
only beers.

Nutritious Noshing
Vancouver-based Left Coast Naturals
have also introduced new flavours of
their delicious Hippie Foods Coconut
Chips snacks Tamari & Cracked
Pepper, and Coconut Bacon (meatfree!). Tasty, crunchy, gluten-free, and
vegan we cant keep our hands out of
the bags!

New Ocean Wise phone app


Celebrating its 10th anniversary,
Vancouver Aquariums Ocean Wise
program has launched a slick new app
for you to check which seafood options
are Ocean Wise recommended, and
access a database of 3,000+ Ocean
Wise partners.

New Addictive Snacks!

A gift that keeps on growing!

Eccentric English vegetable chip


producers, Tyrrells, have introduced
three new flavours to our stores. Look
for Beetroot, Parsnip & Potato; and
Sweet Potato, Carrot & Potato, both
with Sea Salt; and our faves Sweet
Potato with Smoked Chili. We cant
stop popping these completely moreish
crunchy snacks be warned!

Provide a hungry family with fresh fruit


to eat and sell at market five fruit
trees are only $30, and an Agricultural
Pack for three families, of seeds, animal
feed, tools, fertilizers, pest control and
training, is $35 which is then doubled
because of donations from the World
Food Programme!
catalogue.worldvision.ca/collections

CELEBRATE FRIENDS.
MAKE THEM FAMILY.
2 01 3
K
Vint
ner s endallJa
Re s e
rve ckson
Char
donn
ay

Ed i t
C h o o r s
ice

Wine

POINT

Enth
u
Dece siast Ma
mbe
g
r 2 0 a z i n e,
14

Vintners Reserve Chardonnay


has been the #1 Selling
Chardonnay and white wine in
the USA for 23 years!

KJ.COM @KJ WINES


2015 Kendall-Jackson Winery, Santa Rosa, CA

Ask Culinaire
by RENEE KOHLMAN

Are homemade gifts a cop-out


for the holidays?

When it comes to holiday gift-giving,


it really is the thought that matters
most. Ive found that anything made
with love is pretty much the best gift
there is. Well, aside from diamonds, of
course, but we all shouldnt be holding
our breath for those! Why not surprise
dear friends and family with edible gifts,
created in your own kitchen?

need vanilla beans and vodka to make a


years supply.

The perks to this are many. You get to


avoid malls, save money, and look like
a culinary superstar. Cookies and bars
all wrapped up in pretty tins are always
a good idea, but why not switch it up
with jars of delicious homemade salted
caramel?

Anything made with love


is pretty much the best
gift there is

The bakers in your life will love you


even more if you gift them pure vanilla
extract, and the good news is you only

Speaking of vodka, making your own


limoncello is a snap you just need
vodka, sugar and lemons. And patience
to let it age for a week or so.

For the more adventurous candymakers, homemade marshmallows and


sponge toffee are a wonderful, creative
gift for those with an insatiable sweet
tooth and theyre easy to pull off too.

Another sweet idea: save vanilla beans


youve scraped the seeds out of, and
store them in granulated sugar for a
lovely vanilla essence. Poured into small
jars, it makes a wonderful hostess gift.
Last, but not least, for the chocolatelovers in your life, dip salted pretzels
in dark chocolate and lay them on
parchment paper. Sprinkle with Skor
bits or other tiny candies, and chill until
set. Wrap in cellophane with a festive
bow and youll for sure make someones
spirit bright.
Visit culinairemagazine.ca for recipes
to make your own candies, cookies
and bars, and see the smile on your
family and friends faces when you
surprise them with edible gifts this
holiday season.

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in


beautiful Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her columns
appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her
desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club.
Also, check out her blog www.sweetsugarbean.com
8

Book Reviews
by KAREN MILLER

The Holiday
Kosher Baker

by Paula Shoyer
Sterling Publishers
2013. $38.50
An array of
beautiful desserts
at any festive
gathering is a
Jewish tradition.
Although the
dessert recipes
in this book are
organized around
each of the big
Jewish holiday
celebrations, they certainly can be used any time during
the year by everyone, kosher or not. All the recipes are
clearly marked as gluten-free, dairy- or nut-free, low in
sugar or even vegan. Many recipes cater to the dietary
restrictions associated with a specific holiday, but in no way
do they compromise the decadence of the desserts.
Shoyer has lots of experience sharing her recipes with
Jewish home bakers, touring North America after her
first Jewish baking book, and she provides a lot of helpful
hints. For example, many Jewish holidays involve fasting,
with a big celebration scheduled immediately after, so
she demonstrates the steps which can be done ahead
and/or frozen.
Of course there are lots of the classic desserts you might
expect in a Jewish baking book, some using Matzoh meal,
and many varieties of babkas, challahs, latkes and rugelach,
but there are many more recipes adopting a modern or
more healthy approach! She even includes recipes for
some French baking classics, including the delicious
canelles, the beautiful, small caramelized domes of
goodness from Bordeaux.
Some of the Jewish holidays have a tradition of giving
packages of sweets as gifts, so the book has a wide
spectrum of holiday cookie and candy gift-giving ideas for
any occasion.
You will want to fast just so you can indulge in the endless
variety of Shoyers treats this holiday season!
Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook. She
has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls.

Potluck Party Gems


Are you ever stuck for ideas when choosing a dish to make for a potluck party?
We love the opportunity to try other peoples cooking, so we asked our contributors
for their favourite potluck dishes. All these tried and true holiday recipes
are available online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Mini Dutch Apple Pies

I love classic pies, and am usually in charge of desserts, so


these tiny sweets are my go-to for potlucks. Theyre superquick to throw together and work for large groups because
everyone gets their own pie. Even if people are stuffed by the
end of the night, they usually take them home!
Lynda Sea

Vegan Chocolate Haystacks (Gluten-Free)

I cant help but to bring dessert to a potluck, especially


during the holidays. These chocolate haystacks are a family
favourite that Ive been eating for as long as I can remember.
They are the perfect chocolatey bite for after a gut-busting
holiday meal.
Mallory Frayn

Carrot Halvah

is my favourite winter potluck dish. Its a favourite with kids


and adults alike, and its so easy. Its a great way to get kids
involved in cooking their own veggies theyll love to eat. Its
versatile and practically allergen-free! You can serve it cold or
hot, and as a side dish or for dessert. Its fail-safe.
Christa Bedwin

Wife Saver

Having so many close friends who are chefs, I am fortunate to


have fantastic potluck experiences, however it can also create
a bit of pressure when choosing what to bring! I love brunch
and so when we get together I make a modern variation of
what is still called the wife saver today by the Best of Bridge
ladies. It brings back childhood memories, and will leave any
brunch-lover wanting more!
Patricia Koyich

Classically Meaty Lasagna

I was thrilled to find this lasagna recipe a little while ago; its so
much better than store bought or even frozen ones, and really
doesnt take that much longer. Its rich (but not too rich),
meaty, and can feed a good-sized group of people for dinner,
and a much larger group if part of a potluck. The base recipe is
from Americas test kitchen, but its very easy to modify.
Tom Firth
Volcano Chicken Wings

10

Caramel Butternut Squash Apple Squares

Its always nice to think outside of the standard pumpkin spice


box, so these caramel butternut squash and apple dessert
squares have become my holiday potluck party go-to. Bet you
cant eat just one. Actually, I goddamn guarantee it!
Dan Clapson

Humus

Time is my most valuable asset, so for potlucks my dish has


to be easy and delicious, but very quick to make. If I can put
everything in a food processor and give it a little whizz, then
its ideal for me! I love making humus as I usually have all the
ingredients to hand, and can vary it easily by adding roasted
garlic, chili flakes, basil, red peppers etc.
Linda Garson

Cheaters Pulled Pork

As a home cook, I have always suspected the Crock-Pot as a


failsafe way to cook the flavour out of any dish. But you cant
go wrong with a fatty pork butt slow cooked for twelve hours.
Traditionally, pulled pork requires specialized techniques,
equipment, and know-how. No need to complicate things. Try
this recipe for melting, savoury, moist pulled pork.
Matthew Browman

Fresh Ultra Premium


Olive Oils + Natural
Balsamic Vinegars
+ Fresh Pasta Made Daily
VI SI T US AT T HE

Calgary Farmers Market


O R JUST G O O G LE

Soffritto Calgary

1319 9 Avenue SE

(403) 457-1595

kentofinglewood.com

@kentofinglewood

Across the street from Knifewear.

1316 9 Avenue SE

(403) 514-0577

knifewear.com

@knifewearyyc

Across the street from Kent of Inglewood.

Soup Kitchen
story and photography by DAN CLAPSON

December is not usually a month thats low on the


calorie counter. Im all for everything in moderation,
but if theres a time of year where indulgence is
generally accepted, its the holidays.
These bowls of soup are full of
comfort, perfect for those nights
when a heavy snowfall and cold winds
have you chilled to the bone.

If youre throwing a holiday party before


Christmas, try serving either of these
in small mugs for guests to sip on. Soup
shooters all-round!

Cream of Bacon and Blue Cheese Soup


Preheat oven to 375 F.

1. Heat canola oil in a medium pot on

medium-high heat. Add sliced bacon


and cook for 5 minutes. Remove cooked
bacon from pot and place onto paper
towel to absorb any excess oil.

2. Reduce to medium heat and add

butter. Once melted, stir in flour to form


a roux. Slowly add half and half, stirring
until you have a sauce-like consistency.

3. Add broth, wine, 1 Tbs of honey,

and spices, and cook uncovered, for 20


minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. Stir in blue cheese and cook another

10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and


pepper and let warm on the stove until
ready to serve.
Serves 4 Total cook time 40 minutes
2 tsp (10 mL) canola oil
4 bacon strips, 2 cm sliced
1 Tbs butter
2 Tbs all-purpose flour
3 cups (720 mL) half and half
3 cups (720 mL) chicken broth
12

cup (120 mL) white wine


1 Tbs, plus 2 tsp honey, separated
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp smoked paprika
cup crumbled blue cheese
4 strips bacon
To taste salt and pepper
Garnish honey

5. Place bacon strips on a baking rack,

drizzle with honey and bake in preheated


oven until crispy, about 8-10 minutes.
Allow to cool, then roughly chop.

6. To serve, ladle soup into bowls,

top with chopped candied bacon and a


drizzle of honey.

Red Wine Braised Onion and Root Vegetable Soup


Serves 5 Total cook time 1 hour
2 heads garlic, peeled
2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil
1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil
3 yellow onions, halved and
thinly sliced
2 Tbs butter
3 cups (720 mL) red wine
2 turnips, peeled and julienned
3 carrots, julienned
6 cups (1.5 L) vegetable broth
1 Tbs (15 mL) soy sauce
1 Tbs (15 mL) Worcestershire sauce
1 Tbs (15 mL) balsamic vinegar
To taste salt and pepper

Topping:
1 cups grated mozzarella cheese
2 Tbs (30 mL) half and half
2 Tbs finely chopped parsley
2 cm slices of white baguette (amount
required varies with size of soup bowl)

Preheat oven to 375 F.

1. Place peeled garlic cloves in tin foil,

pour canola oil over top and seal tightly.


Place in oven and cook until cloves are
golden and tender, about 35 minutes.
Remove from oven, discard oil and allow
cloves to cool.

2. Heat olive oil in a large pot on


medium-high heat and add sliced

onions. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring


occasionally. If onions start to brown,
add a small splash of water.

3. Add butter, and continue to cook for


5 minutes, stirring occasionally. When
onions begin to caramelize, add some
red wine to the pot. Once it reduces,
add a little more red wine and allow
to reduce. Continue this process until
there is only 1 cup (240 mL) of wine
remaining.

4. Pour remaining wine into the pot

along with remaining ingredients, bring


to a simmer, reduce to medium heat and
let cook for 30 minutes, uncovered.

5. Use the back of a knife to press

confit garlic cloves into a pure and


add to the pot. Stir well and season to
taste with salt and pepper.

6. Combine cheese, cream and

herbs in a small bowl. Ladle out


soup into 5 heat-safe bowls and top
with baguette slices, followed by
liberal amounts of cheese mixture.

7. Bake in oven until cheese starts

to melt and bubble and then turn


to low broil and cook until cheese
begins to brown, about 3-4 minutes.
Remove from oven and cool slightly
before serving.

WHO NEEDS MISTLETOE WHEN


YOU HAVE SWEET ROSCATO!

2015 Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL.

Ending On A Sweet Note:

5 Farmers Market Vendors


With Treats For The Holidays
by DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Everyone says theyre


stuffed after the turkey,
potatoes and sides, but
somehow, people always
manage to make room
for dessert.

Yum Bakery

And, lets be honest, it


really isnt a holiday meal
Yum Bakery
without something sweet to
Dont show up to holiday dinner
wrap it up. If the thought
parties empty-handed, or worse, with
of making a piecrust makes a fruitcake. Pick up tarts, cakes and
macarons from Yum Bakery instead.
you anxious, consider
Fans of pillowy, light cakes will enjoy the
vanilla chiffon raspberry mousse cake,
taking the easy way and
and chocoholics wont be able resist the
picking up treats from
chocolate hazelnut royale. Whatever
cake or tart you get, serve it with a few
these vendors at farmers
macarons on the side.
markets in the city.

Orchid Pastry
If youre looking for more unusual
sweet treats, then youll want to pick
some pastries from Orchid Pastry.
They specialize in interesting sweets like
zoulbia (fried batter soaked in syrup),
Moroccan date-filled cookies and
saffron ice cream; but they also make
a variety of small French and Italian
pastries, like cream puffs and cannoli.
Cant decide what to get? Pick up a
piece or two of everything.
Find them at Calgary Farmers Market

Find them at Calgary Farmers Market

Burnt To Order
Whacking a spoon through a crunchy
layer of sugar is cathartic. Its almost
like ripping the wrapping paper from
Christmas presents! While the concept
is simple making a custard, and
torching white sugar on top to create a
thin, crispy layer of caramel making
crme brle takes time and skill to get
the creamy texture and thickness of
the sugar just right. Save your sanity
by visiting Burnt To Order, where you
can find about a dozen different kinds
of crme brle, including classic,
strawberry shortcake and Earl Grey.
Find them at Crossroads Market
14

Orchid Pastry

Kruses Bakery

Kruses Bakery
Le Picnic

Sometimes, you want a piece of artful


and delicate pastry. Other times, you
just want a simple but well-made piece
of apple strudel, an almond square or
apple danish. For those times, Kruses
hit the spot with a variety of traditional
baked goods. For the holidays, pick up
a loaf of their stollen, a bread studded
with dried fruit and covered in icing
sugar.

And while youre at the market, treat


yourself to a sandwich thats more than
just cold cuts and Frenchs mustard.
Le Picnic specializes in sandwiches like
croque monsieur, havarti and cheddar
grilled sandwich, and the signature
country pat sandwich with ham, dill and
homemade mustard. If you want to cut
back on the bread, the bakery also offers
quiche, crepes and spanakopita for you
to take to wherever you are going.
Find them at Market on Macleod

Find them at Symons Valley Farmers


Market and Market on Macleod
Kruses Bakery

Diana Ng is a co-founder of Eat North and freelance


writer who will eat your food when youre not looking.

Janine Deanna Photography

Create one
more treasured
memory at the
Calgary Zoo

The Calgary Zoo provides the perfect mix of elegance and fun for you and
your wedding guests. Enjoy an unforgettable event with our one-of-a-kind
venues and delicious locally sourced cuisine. Your special day will also
have a lasting impact, as proceeds will support conservation
activities here at the zoo and around the world.
calgaryzoo.com/weddings
salesinfo@calgaryzoo.com 403-232-7770

Chefs' Tips Tricks!


Holiday Desserts

by LYNDA SEA photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Making show-stealing
Executive Chef Craig Nazareth
Fairmont Palliser
sweets this holiday
season doesnt have to
Pat seems to be making a comeback
these days and Executive Chef Craig
equal overcomplicated
Nazareth of the Fairmont Palliser has a
day-long affairs. For festive modern take thats not your everyday
dessert: chocolate pat.
desserts that dazzle, here
are some tips from three
Its very friendly to make at home and
easy, and is essentially just chocolate
top Calgary chefs.
Their insights on holiday
baking can save you time,
yet still result in irresistible
desserts that will satisfy
your dinner guests sweet
tooth and leave them
wanting more.

16

and cream together, says Nazareth.


He prefers using milk chocolate to dark
because it has a bit more sweetness and
keeps the pat nice and creamy.
Using a double boiler is very important
so you dont burn your chocolate; just
steaming it melts your chocolate, he
says. Low and slow is the key also with
the crme anglaise.

Chef Craig Nazareth

Nazareth says one of the biggest


mistakes is being too impatient and
rushing the crme anglaise step. If you
rush, youll end up scrambling your eggs
and make lots of lumps, which isnt a
nice creamy consistency.
What makes this a good recipe for the
holiday season, says Nazareth, is that
its one dessert with multiple uses. You
can have it for dessert one night with
the family and the next day, it makes
great French toast, he says. Stuff any
leftover pat inside your French toast
and use the remaining crme anglaise as
your syrup yes, please!

Chocolate Pat with


Crme Anglaise
Serves 8-10

Pat
300 g dark chocolate couverture
1 cups (300 mL) heavy cream
100 g sugar
100 g butter
100 g glucose

1. In a pot, bring cream, butter, sugar


and glucose to a boil.

2. Pour the boiled liquid over


the chocolate.

3. Mix well and set aside to cool.


Crme Anglaise

1 cups (425 mL) heavy cream


1 (425 mL) milk
1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla paste
200 g sugar
215 g egg yolk

David Rousseau
Ollia Macarons & Tea
People tend to overcook, overbake and
overstress around the holidays, so David
Rousseau, of Ollia Macarons & Tea, is
in favour of a holiday sweet thats not
heavy or time-consuming to make. He
suggests whipping up a batch of light
and crispy Florentines thin and fine
almond cookies that literally translate
to from Florence in Italian but are
actually French in origin.
These are so simple and tasty and
addictive, says Rousseau. Put your
batter in the fridge overnight so it
hardens and is easier to work with.
When forming the Florentine,
Rousseaus trick is to wet a fork to
spread the batter so it doesnt stick,
leaving uneven portions. Spread them
very thinly, says Rousseau. You want
them as thin as possible without holes in
the batter.

1. Heat cream, milk and vanilla to


a simmer.

2. In a bowl, whisk together egg yolks

and sugar. Gradually whisk in cream


mixture into eggs. Return sauce to pot
over medium heat.

3. Cook anglaise until the sauce coats

the back of a spoon. Strain and let cool


in fridge.
For the full recipe for
Craig Nazareths vanilla cake,
visit culinairemagazine.ca.

To assemble:
1. Cut vanilla cake with round cutter.

2. Use a round piping tip and pipe

cooled chocolate pat around the edge


of the cake, leaving the centre empty.

3. Garnish the center of the pat/cake


assembly with fruits.

4. Plate the pat assembly with


anglaise as desired.

David Rousseau

Wet a fork to spread the


batter so it doesnt stick
For toppings, melt chocolate to drizzle
over the cookies, or dip them half into
melted chocolate, or throw in hazelnuts,
walnuts or pecans. If dried fruit is more
your thing, add dried cranberries and
cardamom to the mix.

Florentines

Makes 40-50 Florentines


40 g almond flour
230 g icing sugar
140 g egg whites
250 g sliced almonds
50 g unsalted butter, melted

1. Mix almond flour, icing sugar and egg


whites together.

2. Add sliced almonds and mix well.


3. Add unsalted butter, previously
melted. Mix well.

4. Leave mix in fridge overnight or


freezer for 30-45 minutes.

5. Scoop mix and place on baking mat,


using a fork to spread it thin. Wet the
fork so the batter doesnt stick. Add
crushed nuts/dried fruits if needed.

6. Bake in oven at 355 F for 4

minutes, then turn trays around and


bake for another 3 minutes.

7. For shapes, use a cookie cutter

when they are baked and still lukewarm.


Drizzle chocolate or dip in chocolate
when they have cooled down.
17

Chef Kevin Yang

Chef Kevin Yang


MARKET Calgary
For Chef Kevin Yang at MARKET
Calgary, baking is both chemistry and
what he likes to call science-y art. So
when it comes to Christmas baking,
he likes the element of surprise and is
known for his playful savoury desserts
including this yam cake recipe.

Salt-baked Vanilla Yam Cake


with Bourbon Spiced Eggnog
Buttercream
Serves 12

Yam Puree
Cold eggs make your
cakes lumpy

By baking the yam on a bed of salt to


create a puree, Yang says it makes the
root vegetable fluffier, which matters
when it comes to cake. The salt acts as
a medium that transfers and holds the
heat so it bakes more evenly.
Make sure your eggs are also at room
temperature before adding them to the
mix, says Yang. Cold eggs make your
cakes lumpy. A quick fix: soak the eggs
in warm tap water out of the fridge for
about 5 minutes.
Instead of butter, I also like to work
with olive oil in my cake, says Yang.
While butter adds richness and makes
it more crumbly, he says olive oil adds
an interesting complement to the
yam flavour and leaves the cake more
dense and moist. While Yang made his
bourbon-spiced eggnog from scratch,
store-bought eggnog will also do.
18

450 g evenly sized yam


3 cups kosher salt

Spread kosher salt evenly on a baking


tray, rest the yam on top and bake at
325 F for 30 minutes or until fork
tender. Once cool, scrape the yam out
and smash it with fork and set aside.
For Kevin Yangs full Bourbonspiced eggnog buttercream recipe,
visit culinairemagazine.ca

Vanilla Yam Cake


400 g yam puree
93 g buttermilk
1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla paste or extract
112 g olive oil
345 g granulated sugar
2 eggs, room temperature
245 g all-purpose flour
6 g baking soda
3 g ginger powder
3 g cinnamon
2 g nutmeg
Pinch of clove

1. Combine yam puree, buttermilk and


vanilla paste or extract and set aside.

2. Combine flour, baking soda,


spices, sifted.

3. In a mixing bowl, add olive oil and

sugar, with a paddle attachment mix on


medium speed until it comes together
into paste for about 3 minutes.

4. Add one egg at a time, make sure

to scrape the side between the eggs,


continue mixing for about 2 minutes
or until the mixture becomes light and
fluffy.

5. With the mixer on low, incorporate


half of the dry ingredients, mix until
done, scrape the side, then add
half of the yam puree, again mix till
incorporated, scrape down again, and
repeat with other half of ingredients.

6. Grease an 8 cake pan lined with

parchment paper; add the mixtures then


hold the cake pan about 30 cm off the
counter and drop to get rid of extra air
bubbles, repeat 2 more times.

7. Bake at 325 F for 20-30 minutes.


Lynda Sea is Culinaires digital media editor. Youll
never hear her say no to pie, especially if its apple.
Follow her on Twitter at @lyndasea

L I n s t a n t C h a m p a g n e ,
w i t h Vi t a l i e Ta i t t i n g e r.

Reims,
Place Royale.

taittinger.com

To Find a Retailer Visit liquorconnect.com/40873

19

Chocolate and Espresso Yule Log


with Whisky Mascarpone Filling
Serves 10

Cake:
cup cake flour, sifted, plus more
for dusting pan
5 large eggs, separated, room
temperature for 30 minutes
1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract
cup plus 2 Tbs granulated
sugar, divided
tsp salt
tsp cream of tartar
cup unsalted butter, melted
and cooled
2 Tbs icing sugar

Espresso Syrup:
cup (120 mL) espresso
or strong black coffee
2 Tbs sugar
1 Tbs (15 mL) whisky

Filling:

Step By Step:
The Ultimate Yule Log
story and photography by RENEE KOHLMAN

Years ago I worked with a pastry chef at a posh private


club who could whip up Yule logs by the dozen. They
would be the centrepieces on the endless dessert buffets,
and I was in awe as he worked his culinary magic on these
edible pieces of art.
Mushrooms and woodland creatures
were made out of meringue and propped
on the logs, which had been covered
in swirls of dark chocolate ganache to
look like bark. The masterpiece was only
complete once a light dusting of snow
(icing sugar) had fallen on the scene.

20

While you most certainly dont have to


be a pastry chef to pull off a successful
Yule log, the process does take some time
and a bit of acquired baking skill. And you
mustnt be afraid to flip super hot cake
upside down onto another baking sheet.
The steps may be many, but the reward
of seeing loved ones in awe of your
culinary magic will be worth it.

225 g mascarpone cheese, room


temperature
cup granulated sugar
tsp ground cinnamon
2 Tbs (30 mL) whisky
cup (120 mL) heavy cream, chilled

Ganache:
340 g dark chocolate (at least 60%)
finely chopped
cup (180 mL) heavy cream
2 Tbs (30 mL) corn syrup
Icing sugar for dusting

Cake:
1. Preheat oven to 350 F with rack
in middle.

2. Butter a 15x10 rimmed baking

sheet or jelly roll pan, line bottom


and sides with parchment. Butter
paper and dust with sifted cake flour,
knocking off excess.

3. In the bowl of a stand mixer

with whisk attached, beat egg yolks,


vanilla and cup sugar until thick
and pale, and mixture forms ribbons
that take 2 seconds to dissolve about
5-8 minutes.

4. Sift half of flour over yolks and

Ganache:
1. Place chocolate in a medium bowl.
Heat cream just until it comes to a boil.
Pour over chocolate, cover with plastic
wrap and let it stand for 5 minutes.

fold in gently. Sift and fold in remaining


flour. Gently pour mixture into a
large bowl.

5. Wash mixing bowl and whisk in hot

soapy water and dry thoroughly. Beat


whites with salt and cream of tartar until
soft peaks form. Beat in 2 Tbs of sugar,
Tbs at a time, until stiff.

2. Stir slowly until smooth, then stir

6. Fold of whites into yolk mixture

Assembly:
1. Carefully unroll cake on a baking
sheet, keeping it on the tea towel. Have
the long edge of the cake nearest you.

in corn syrup. Chill until spreadable,


stirring a couple of times, about
15 minutes.

then fold in rest, gently but thoroughly.


In a small bowl, stir together the melted
butter and cup of cake batter until
combined. Stir this back into cake
batter, gently and thoroughly.

7. Spread cake batter evenly on

prepared pan and tap a few times on


counter to release air bubbles. Bake
7-10 minutes, until cake springs back
when gently pressed. Sift top of hot
cake with 2 Tbs icing sugar and cover
with a clean tea towel and another
baking sheet.

8. Using oven mitts, carefully hold

cake and baking sheet together and flip


the cake onto the baking sheet. Now
you can carefully peel off parchment
paper. Using the tea towel as an aid,
have the longest side facing you and
gently roll the cake up in the towel,
jellyroll style. Let cool on a rack.

2. Cover cake evenly with espresso


Syrup:
In a small saucepan, combine espresso
and sugar. Bring to a boil and reduce to
just under cup. Remove from heat.
Stir in whisky and let cool.
Filling:
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer
with paddle attachment, beat the
mascarpone, sugar, cinnamon and
whisky on medium speed until creamy.
Scrape into a medium bowl.

2. Wash and dry the mixing bowl then


beat the heavy cream until it forms
stiff peaks. Fold the cream into the
mascarpone mixture.

www.CococoChocolatiers.com
www.bernardcallebaut.com

syrup and spread the mascarpone filling


over cake, leaving 1 cm border
all around.

3. Starting with long side nearest

you, carefully roll up cake (without the


towel) and place it seam side down on
baking sheet.

4. Use a mini offset spatula to cover

log in ganache, giving a tree trunk


texture. Cut off a diagonal slice from
each end and carefully transfer yule
log onto a platter, or carefully cut log
in half and arrange on a platter. Note: I
find rinsing knife under hot water before
each slice works best.

5. Dust with icing sugar and serve.

If youre still Christmas shopping, here are 15 of our favourite culinary gifts
that will make someones season bright.
mud + stone Pottery

The beautiful bowl on our November


cover was handmade by mud+ stone, a
collaboration of two creative potters,
Jenn McCurry and Lynne Mulvihill, in
Winnipeg. Each piece is unique, and
dishwasher/microwave/oven safe. Order
online at mudandstonestudio.com

Knife Sharpening Lessons

Timerino Soup Mixes

Slicing and dicing is no fun with dull


blades, so a knife sharpening class
makes an ideal gift for the chef in
your house. 2-hour classes for four
people maximum, Thursday evenings
and Sunday mornings at Knifewear in
Inglewood. $60, knifewear.com

From pasta fagioli, to zuppa, to


orrechiette with rapini, Timerino Soup
Mixes from Puglia, in Italy, make
perfect stocking stuffers. Each packet
serves 3. $7 at Bridgeland Market,
bridgelandmarket.com

Savino Wine
Preserver

Adrian Martinus Kitchenware

Want! Brothers Adrian and Martinus


Pool create the most beautiful rolling
pins ($75), cutting boards ($90),
cheeseboards ($66), coasters ($26),
magnetic knife racks, and more for the
home, here in Calgary from recycled
skateboards. Available at Reworks and
EAT Trattoria. adrianmartinus.com

If you just cant


finish that bottle,
the innovative
Savino is an
easy-to-use wine
preservation system
to help keep wine
fresh. Designed
at a height for
refrigerator use too,
its a useful shortterm solution at a
gift-friendly price
of around $50.
savinowine.com

Thermapen Thermometer

Accurate, fast, easy to read and


use, the Thermapen is a professional
tool that has now become the top
cooking thermometer in the home.
Theyre made by hand in England,
and can be used for almost anything
cooked or chilled. From The Compleat
Cook, Willow Park Village, $130,
compleatcook.ca
22

The Ultimate Barware

Are you enjoying the recent rise of


Calgarys cocktail culture? For making
your favourite cocktails at home, the
Japanese Yukiwa range of barware is the
real deal. Impress with an authentic rose
gold cocktail shaker ($146), bar spoon
($81), or jigger ($46), from Kent of
Inglewood. kentofinglewood.com

Wisers Hopped

Beer drinker or whisky lover? Now you


can have the best of both with JP Wisers
Hopped whisky. This blend of 5-9 year-old
Canadian whiskies is dry hopped at the
end of its aging process, producing a whisky
with aromas of toffee and burnt sugar, and
deep flavours of mocha and malt. Yum.
CSPC 774383, $29.

Okins Speculoos Liqueur

Speculoos is a delicious gingerbread cream


liqueur from France. Its reminiscent of
sitting in front of a roaring fire and dunking
ginger cookies in hot milk perfect for the
holiday season. CSPC 767071, $35-$38.

Coravin

With a Coravin, you can taste your


prized wines, monitor them as they
age, or just pour a glass of white for
yourself when everyone else is drinking
red without removing the cork!
Smart technology indeed! $385,
thewinesyndicate.ca/coravin-system

Philips Premium Pasta Machine

Its never been easier to make pasta


and noodles at home! From Philips
Premium Collection, this fully
automated machine can make a pound
of pasta in just 15 minutes. $299, at
The Bay, Home Outfitters, Sears, and
good houseware stores. philips.ca

Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut


Hand-Dipped Cherries
These hand-dipped cherries from
Cococo Chocolatier (owners of
Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut)
marinate for 100 days in Italian Kirsch
before being enrobed in milk chocolate
and placed on a bed of chocolate
shavings. Theyre only available during
the holidays at Cococo Chocolatiers
stores $8 for 2, $33 for 9, $64 for 18.
bernardcallebaut.com

Offcuts 2016 calendar

Supporting Brown Bagging For


Calgarys Kids, Offcuts 2016 is a
light-hearted calendar featuring 12 of
Calgarys well-known food dudes. At
only $20, one calendar will provide
20 school lunches, so grab one for the
foodie in your life. For stockists see
culinairemagazine.ca/articles/offcuts

CRMR Kitchen Condiments

Brand new from the chefs at Canadian


Rocky Mountain Resorts are small
batch, locally made sauces, jams,
condiments, and salsas, as well as frozen
ready-made meals. Signature items
such as Mustard Melons (perfect for
charcuterie) make great hostess gifts,
but you might not want to give them
away! At Second to None Meats,
Willow Park Village and Mission.
crmrkitchen.com

Scotch Whisky
Advent Calendar

Last but certainly not least, for that


very special person, the limited and rare
Scotch Whisky Advent Calendar, and
even more limited Collectors Edition
(only 100 made!), are in your favourite
liquor stores. For locations, visit
scotchwhiskyadvent.com.
23

Kettle Valley Winery


Landscape Photography
Workshop Competition
In the summer issue of Culinaire, we ran a competition for
you to win a fantastic landscape photography workshop with
Scott Forsyth, Photographer of the Year 2014*, at Kettle
Valley Winery in Naramata, with two nights accommodation
and a dinner at the winery with wines from the vineyards
photographed during the day.
We asked you to tell us your most memorable photography
experience, and wed like to congratulate Kerri-Jo Stewart
on winning this superb prize for her story of wine and
photography in northeast Argentina her first time winning
something for writing.
Here are three of her photographs from the workshop, and
you can read her blog of the whole experience at
kerri-jo.com/kettle-valley-workshop.
*In 2014 Scott was named Photographer of the Year from the Alberta chapter
of the professional photographers of Canada.

NOW OPEN
Whitehall believes in honest food in a setting that pays homage
to the familiarity and informality of sitting down together for a
meal. This is honest food that is seriously comfortable.
Chef Neil McCue believes in fine cooking that can be enjoyed
outside of the context of fine dining, and Whitehall is his
chance to prove it.

whitehallrestaurant.com

@whitehallyyc

Ways to Spice Up

nanaimo bars
by MALLORY FRAYN

Nanaimo bars are a Canadian holiday favourite! How can you go wrong with three
layers of chocolate crust, buttery filling, and more melted chocolate to top off the
works? Despite the components, they are surprisingly easy to make, and make well.
Plus all of the different layers make it a cinch to personalize them to your own taste.
Here are some suggestions to do just that!
1. Crazy for chocolate

2. Get nutty

3. Cookie crumbs

To be honest, Nanaimo bars are pretty


chocolate-laden to begin with, but
during the holidays, can there be such
a thing as too much decadence? Lets
start with the base. Why not stir some
chocolate chips into the mix, or add
melted chocolate for more of a fudgy
texture. Blend some cocoa powder
into the filling to add another layer of
chocolate goodness.

Traditional Nanaimo bars usually have


either almond flour, chopped walnuts, or
both as part of the base or crust. Nuts
work perfectly with chocolate, so there
are plenty of other ways to incorporate
different kinds into each and every
layer, like:

Graham cracker crumbs are one of the


key ingredients in a classic Nanaimo
bar base. But why stop there? Crushed
gingersnaps or Speculoos cookies are
both easy substitutes to add some
festive, holiday flare. Not to mention
that warming spices, like ginger and
cinnamon, go oh-so-well with chocolate.
Oreo cookie crumbs are also a winning
idea, and frankly another excuse to
keep amping up the chocolate! Or if
you want to stick with tradition and use
graham cracker crumbs, why not make
your own? For amazing Nanaimo bars,
the extra effort is totally worth it!

Finally, splurge and use some quality


chocolate for the ganache. After all
it is just chocolate and butter melted
together, so the better the ingredients
are, the better it is going to taste.
Although semisweet chocolate is
typically used, milk or white chocolate
are also viable options! Just be sure to
go lighter on the sweetness of the filling,
given that both of these have more
sugar than dark chocolate.

28

- Using various nut flours in the


base (ground hazelnuts would be
especially delicious)
- Mixing chopped nuts into the base for
added crunch
- Blending peanut butter into the filling
- Adding almond paste or pistachio paste
into the filling (green Nanaimo bars!)
- Garnish the bars with toasted, chopped
almonds, hazelnuts, or peanuts

4. Sweet and salty


Nanaimo bars can be tooth-achingly
sweet; I guess thats what happens
when the filling is compromised almost
exclusively of butter and icing sugar
and custard powder. To balance out the
sweetness, once the top chocolatey layer
of the bars has almost set, sprinkle it with
a liberal amount of good flake salt. Not
only do the crystals provide a bit of a
crunch, they also offset some of the sugar.
You could even use flavoured salts (think
vanilla, chili, or cardamom) if you really
want to amp up standard Nanaimo bars.

5. Gluten free, dairy free, vegan


I wont claim that Nanaimo bars are
healthy per se, nor do they have to be,
but they can be a treat that is accessible
to everyone, regardless of their dietary
restrictions. Nanaimo bars are surprisingly
simple to make gluten free, dairy free,
or vegan. Given that they dont have any
flour, the only gluten you have to worry
about is in the graham cracker crumbs,
and nowadays, gluten free graham cracker
crumbs are an easy substitute. For dairyand/or egg-free bars, swap the butter for
coconut oil, milk for non-dairy milk like
almond or soy, and use a flax egg (ground
flax mixed with water) instead of an actual
egg, or just leave it out altogether. A few
easy substitutions guarantee that
everyone can take part in this favourite
holiday dessert.

Peanut Butter Nanaimo Bars


Makes 25 squares

Base
cup butter
cup white sugar
6 Tbs cocoa powder
1 egg
1 Tbs (15 mL) milk
2 cups graham cracker crumbs
1 cup coconut

Middle Layer
cup butter, softened
peanut butter (creamy or crunchy)
3 Tbs (45 mL) milk
2 Tbs custard powder
3 cups icing sugar

Top Layer
200 g semisweet or dark chocolate
of your choice
2 Tbs butter

1. To make the base, combine the

butter, sugar, cocoa, and milk in a large


saucepan. Heat to melt the butter,
stirring until smooth.

2. Remove, and add in the graham

cracker crumbs, coconut, and egg. Stir


until well incorporated and pack into a
parchment lined 99 pan. Bake at
325 F for about 10 minutes. Once it is
out of the oven, put it in the freezer to
cool for 5 to 10 minutes.

3. To make the middle layer, beat

together the butter, peanut butter, milk,


custard powder and icing sugar until
smooth. Spread this on top of the base
and chill.

4. Melt together the chocolate and

butter in the microwave for the top


layer. Allow it to cool slightly. Pour
this over the first 2 layers, spreading it
evenly across the top.

5. Refrigerate until everything is set,


30-60 minutes. Slice and serve.

Mallory is a Calgary freelance writer and grad student


now living, learning and eating in Montreal. Check out
her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on
Twitter and Instagram @cuzilikechoclat

Pairing Pitfalls:

Classic Meals And The Elements To Avoid


by MATTHEW BROWMAN

You dont like cranberry sauce? my mother-in-law asks


every time we have turkey. Oh, shes not judging. Shes
just observing, and is genuinely dedicated to ensuring I
have the best possible experience.
I do! I answer. I just find it really
kills the wine, which kinda tastes like
cranberry, so I avoid the sauce and use
the wine. You should try some!
Shes a teetotaller, so she would never,
but her sense of humour allows her to
grin at my teasing counter-offer of
some sauce for the sauce.
Cranberry sauce is just one of the
compromising accoutrements to classic
meals. When it comes to pairing, a food
element too intensely sweet, hot, sour,
bitter, or salty can, at best, challenge,
and at worst, destroy your wine. In very
rare cases, they can harmonize and
elevate. Below are some preparations to
beware, and some suggestions to cope.

Turkey and Cranberry Sauce


Just thinking about savoury, crisp turkey
skin, creamy, buttery potatoes and rich,
salty gravy sets your tummy rumbling.
But its too much, better call cranberry
sauce to the rescue. But while the fruit
acids and sugar freshen up the flavours,
unfortunately, they also foil any wine
you might serve, so serve wine instead.
Even though pinot noir is classic, this
harvest-type meal will welcome Cru
Beaujolais or other gamay noir wines.
If you must keep the cranberry sauce,
experiment with pink wine something
on the crisper side, like a cool climate
pinot noir ros.
30

Ham and Pineapple


You know youve made it if youre on a
pizza. Sweet, tropical, moist pineapple
chunks or glaze lifts hams relentless
saltiness. Unfortunately, the fruits
high sugar will sour wine while the acid
will emphasize the alcohol. Finally,
pineapples intense fruitiness will
suppress the actual fruit flavour of any
wine you serve. Meet the high sweetacid-fruit components of the dish
with a similarly scaled-up wine. Serve
an Auslese riesling, or eliminate the
pineapple altogether and go with
a Kabinett-level riesling, or a fruity,
soft red like zinfandel or grenache, or
pinot noir.

Maple Glazed Salmon


Salmon can pair perfectly with lighter
reds and weightier whites. Dill,
butter, asparagus, lemon any of
these in moderation works with wine.
While a maple glaze will add a sweet
counterpoint to the distinctly fleshy
fillet and savoury skin, its sweetness
can waylay your wine. Since acidity isnt
your worry in this case, try an off-dry
Alsatian gewrztraminer as the lychee
and jasmine flavours will complement
the maple.

Lamb and Mint Sauce or Jelly

Roast Beef Dinner


The boiled green beans, roast potatoes,
Yorkshire pudding and jus could be your
Sunday evening tradition, a wedding
meal option, or on the restaurant
menu as a meal to share. But hold your
horseradish. The combination makes
a formidable enemy of any wine on the
planet. Fortunately, we typically only
dab small amounts on our plate, and
the other rich textures and flavours
from the beef, jus, and potatoes easily
override it, so no need to cancel your
claret. Before sipping your wine,
have a mouthful of meat without the
horseradish, or neutralize with a bit of
roast potato.

This distinctly British condiment is


believed to have carried over from
the Middle Ages. When mint leaves
sprouted they were mixed with other
seasonal roots, shoots, nuts, berries and
herbs. Then a sheep was chosen for the
chopping block, and the mint mixture
would tame its intensely gamey flavour.
But when isolated and amplified as part
of a spicy sauce with vinegar and sugar,
or as a sweet jelly, it becomes wines
worst nightmare. Go ahead brush your
teeth before decanting a Chateauneufdu-Pape or Pomerol I dare you.
Simply avoid mint sauces and jellies,
or find subtler ways to integrate the
flavour, such as yoghurt with cucumber,
as in Greek and Middle Eastern dishes.

Duck and Cherry


This one is a little trickier, as duck is so
fatty and meaty that a little tang lifts
the whole thing. If using cherries (or
orange, or blackberries) as a glaze or
reduction, less is more. It plays back to
the pineapple problem fruit acids and
sugars will massacre your wine. Pinot
noir counts as a classic pairing for duck
because of its already cherry-like flavour
and fat-cutting acidity. If you have too
much of a too-strong sauce, your wine
will whimper.

Pork and Applesauce


The further down the list we go, the
more apparent one principle becomes:
wine IS, or at least should be, the sauce.
Savoury yet light-protein pork dances
with the tart tang and mild sweetness of
applesauce. Heres the thing, though:
riesling tastes like the grown-up liquid
form of a Granny Smith. If you dont
like white wine, but do like applesauce
on your pork chop, think of the wine as
the sauce.

When it comes to pairing,


a food element can at
best challenge, and at
worst, destroy your wine

Chefs and home chefs alike strive to


execute a dish that harmonizes the
flavour relationships balancing salt
with sweet, savoury with sour yet still
incorporating wine to great effect. Most
of the difficulties stem from fruit served
with savoury dishes.
The trick is not to eliminate these
elements entirely, but rather to tame
them. Use less, and work your glaze or
reduction to suggest and enhance rather
than flavour your dish. And chuck your
mint sauce.
Matt Browmans 1980s inception into the
restaurant world led to certification from ISG,
WSET and the Court of Master Sommeliers, with
restaurant, retail, education, journalism and travel
experience.

32

Apple Crisp with


Goat Cheese Cream

Apple Desserts

To Warm Your Soul This Winter


story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

Apple Crisp with


Goat Cheese Cream
Serves 8

2 gala apples, peeled, cored and sliced


6 Fuji apples, peeled, cored and sliced
105 g brown sugar
60 g butter
cup (125 mL) cider
pinch sea salt
lemon, zested and juiced
10 g cinnamon
125 dried cranberries
200 g walnuts, roughly chopped

Topping
400 g oats
175 g walnuts, roughly chopped
75 g brown sugar
pinch salt
4 g cinnamon
60 g butter, melted
cup (60 mL) cider

Preheat oven to 375 F.

1. In a cast iron pan, melt butter and

brown sugar on medium high and whisk


to combine. Add apple slices (you may
have to add half the apples then once
they have cooked for about 5 minutes
add the other half).

2. Sprinkle over the top of the crisp,


then bake for 45 minutes or until
bubbling and hot in the centre.

3. Remove from oven and cool. Serve


in cast iron pan with cream on the side.
Goat Cheese Cream

cinnamon and stir into the apples. Cook


another 5 minutes.

125 g goat fromage blanc


1 cup (250 mL) cream
60 g icing sugar
1 tsp (5 ml) vanilla

3. Add the cider and let cook 3

1. Whip the cream until medium

2. Add the salt, lemon juice and

minutes. Remove from heat and add


the walnuts, lemon zest and dried
cranberries.
Topping
1. In a medium bowl, combine the
oats, walnuts, brown sugar, salt, and
cinnamon. Add the melted butter and
cider, stirring.

peaks form.

2. Whip the goat cheese with the icing


sugar and vanilla until soft. Fold in 1/3
of the whipped cream then fold the
mixture into the remaining whipped
cream. Serve with the apple crisp.

33

Apple Upside-Down Cake


Serves 6 - 8

65 g butter
65 g brown sugar
3 Tbs (45 mL) cider
3 medium gala apples, peeled,
cored, sliced

1. Place butter and brown sugar in

5 g ground ginger
8 g cinnamon
100 g sour cream
60 g butter
cup (60 mL) cider

Preheat oven to 350 F.

1. Grate apples, and set aside.

saut pan to melt. Whisk to combine,


then add cider and whisk again. Add
apple slices, cook for 5 - 10 minutes.

2. In a bowl combine flour, sugar,

2. Cut parchment paper to fit, and lay

3. In a small bowl whisk together

in the base of your baking pan.

3. Butter parchment and lay apple

slices in a pattern on top. Pour


remaining juices into the pan, reserve.
Cake
5 medium gala apples, peeled
and cored
300 g flour
100 g sugar
10 g baking powder
1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla
pinch mace

baking powder, cinnamon, mace


and ginger.

butter, egg, cider and vanilla. Add to dry


ingredients, and add shredded apple.

Apple Fritters with Cardamom,


and Orange Cider Anglaise
Serves 4 - 5

3 apples, peeled, cored, rough chop


300 g flour + extra for coating apples
50 g sugar
7 g baking powder
5 g cardamom
pinch salt
30 g butter, melted
1 egg
cup (60 mL) cider
1 large orange, zested
garnish icing sugar

4. Spoon mixture over apples in the


pan and even out batter. Bake 35
minutes or until toothpick comes
out clean.

Serve warm with


anglaise on the side

5. Let cool on a wire rack 10

minutes, invert onto serving plate and


cool completely.
*Note: this cake is thinner and more
moist than a regular cake.

1. In a mixing bowl, combine flour,


sugar, baking powder, cardamom
and salt.

2. In a separate bowl, beat the egg


Apple Upside-Down Cake

with a fork then add the melted butter


and cider. Gently stir the dry and wet
ingredients together until just combined
(do not over-mix).

3. Meanwhile, in deep-fat fryer or pan,

heat about 5 cm of canola oil to 360 F.

4. Coat cubed apples with extra flour

and fold into batter (about at a time).


Place individual coated apple cubes,
gently into the hot oil. Make sure not
to overcrowd.

5. Cook, turning once, until golden,

3 to 4 minutes. Drain on paper towel.


Repeat with remaining apples. Sprinkle
fritters with icing sugar; serve warm with
anglaise on the side.
Note: you can make these before dinner
and keep the fritters warm in a 250 F
oven until time for dessert
34

Apple Fritters with Cardamon


and Orange Cider Anglaise

Celebrate
the

Season

Orange Cider Anglaise


1 cup (250 mL) cream
4 egg yolks
50 g sugar
vanilla bean
1 orange, zested
3 Tbs (45 mL) cider

#1

1. Add cream, vanilla bean and the

sugar to a small pot and heat until small


bubbles start to form on the surface.

#1

2. Meanwhile, whisk yolks and

New Zealand
Sauvignon Blanc
in Alberta

New Zealand
Pinot Noir

remaining sugar in a medium bowl until


light and frothy.

in Alberta

3. Pour half the hot cream into the

yolk mixture while whisking (make sure


the heat of the cream does not cook the
yolks to make scrambled eggs). Pour the
yolk mixture back into the cream and
cook, constant whisking until thick.

4. Pour mixture through a sieve into

*Note: Anglaise can be made a couple of


days ahead, and kept in the fridge.
Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and
pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleus pastry
program, she manages her own business too to create
custom-made cakes.

Please enjoy our wines responsibly.

a bowl. Add orange zest and cider, and


gently whisk together. Cover with cling
film. Make sure the film is completely
touching the sauce so it doesnt form a
skin as it cools.

facebook.com/kimcrawfordwines

Cream Of
The Crop
by STEVE GOLDSWORTHY

Exciting cocktail
experiences often begin
with experimentation.
Trying a new combination,
or a unique liqueur can
often produce dramatic and
delicious results.
Yet I am always so perplexed by the dislike
some people have for cream liqueurs.
While very few can resist a rich French
press coffee with a swirl of Irish Cream on
a chilly winters night, they are reluctant
to enjoy the same drink by itself over ice.
Holiday party-goers seem quite content
to down glasses of everything from
tequila to Sambuca, but when it comes
to cream-based drinks, they shy away.
Perhaps it is the sweetness, perhaps it
is the dairy, or maybe over-indulgent
teenage experimentation with the
household liquor cabinet.

Trying a new combination,


or a unique liqueur can
often produce dramatic
and delicious results

But if you take the time to explore the


high-quality products in the market,
and arent afraid to experiment with
a few recipes, cream liqueurs can be
quite a luxurious experience. Also, many
producers will insist you can leave a
bottle of cream liqueur sealed on the
counter for months at a time without
spoilage but probably best to keep an
opened bottle in the fridge.
36

Irish Creams

All Irish creams share the same


basic recipe. Producers begin with a
quality Irish whiskey, add cream, and
either sweetened condensed milk or
evaporated milk. Some may also add a
little coffee. The process of marrying
these ingredients is a fascinating one.
Cream, of course, is known to curdle
when introduced to acidic liquids such
as citrus or tonic water. While alcohol
doesnt exactly have the same effect,
cream liqueurs, such as Baileys, go
through a process of emulsification
involving vegetable oil to prevent
the alcohol and cream from
separating in the bottle, and most
manufacturers resist the use of
preservatives as the alcohol itself
preserves the cream.
Of course, the granddaddy of all
Irish creams is Baileys. Gilbeys of
Ireland created Baileys in 1974,
as something new to offer to
international consumers, and it

became the first Irish cream available


on the market. In addition to the
classic, Baileys now comes in a variety
of flavours including caramel, chocolate
mint, vanilla cinnamon, and biscotti.
Today, Baileys remains the worlds bestselling cream liqueur retailing for about
$33 for a 750mL bottle.
More than 150 Irish cream liqueurs exist
in the worldwide market. Other quality
Irish cream liqueurs available locally
include Ryans, St, Brendans, Feeneys,
and Carolans.

Chocolate Cream Liqueurs


Many fine chocolate cream
liqueurs are available on the
market as well. Most start with
either rich Dutch or Belgian
chocolate combined with cream
and a spirit such as vodka or
bourbon. Godiva makes a white
chocolate liqueur. Mozart
Chocolate Cream is available in
Canada from time to time.

A recent addition
to the market, the
Laura Secord Chocolate
Cream Liqueur, is
Canadas answer to
Baileys. A brand extension
of the Laura Secord
chocolate store chain, it is
a delicious combination of
milk chocolate and cream.
At 17% alcohol, it is neither
stupefying nor cloying in its
sweetness. A delight over
French vanilla ice cream.
These liqueurs are a natural component
to any decadent hot chocolate, and can
liven up any ice cream dish (around $30).

Other Cream Liqueurs

Of course, cream liqueurs


come in a variety of flavours,
with a wide range of
ingredients. South Africas
Amarula (about $30) is
a unique cream-based
product. First produced
in 1989 by the Southern
Liqueur Company of South
Africa, it combines cream,
sugar and the distilled fruit
of the African marula tree.

Cabot Trail Maple Cream


($26-30). The fine folks
at Domaine Pinnacle
in Quebec decided to
honour trailblazer John
Cabot, the first European
to explore Canada. They
combine a hand-selected
mix of grain alcohol and
rum with fresh dairy
cream, then add pure
premium maple syrup
to the mix. The maple
is what sets Cabot Trail
above many others in the category. A
natural sweetness combines with the
alcohol for that warm glowing effect. It
is heavenly over ice.

Amarula Brandy and Cream


1 oz Amarula Cream Liqueur
1 oz light cream
oz Brandy
Chocolate Shavings

Shake the Amarula cream liqueur,


brandy and light cream together with
ice. Strain into a tumbler filled with ice
and garnish with chocolate shavings.

Classic Chocolate Martini

1 oz Laura Secord Chocolate Cream


Liqueur
oz vodka

Baileys Vanilla Spiced Cocktail

Shake ingredients with ice in a martini


shaker and strain into a martini glass.
Garnish with chocolate shavings or
drizzle chocolate sauce over the surface.

Combine ingredients in a shaker with


ice. Shake and strain into a martini glass,
garnish with grated cinnamon.

Steve Goldsworthy is a freelance writer, childrens


author and screenwriter and filmmaker. He has
spent 17 years learning about wine while running
Britannia Wine Merchants.

1 oz Baileys Espresso
oz spiced rum
oz espresso

Probably best to keep an


opened bottle in the fridge

The succulent and tart fruit is a favourite


food among South Africas elephant
population. The brandy-like distillation
is aged for two years in oak before being
blended with the cream. Besides the
smooth creamy texture,
the liqueur offers distinct citrusy
notes, with some dried fruit and walnut
character. Best enjoyed on its own,
Amarula can be a refreshing
component to many cocktails.
On a cold winters night, my personal
choice by the fireside has been the

The weather
outside is frightful,
but the fire is
so delightful..

Bow Valley Ranche Restaurant


15979 Bow Bottom Trail SE
Calgary | AB | 403. 476. 1310
events@bvrrestaurant.com
w w w.bvrrestaurant.com
RancheYYC

Our Gift to You


Purchase a $150
gift card and receive a
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Promotional card is valid from
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(not valid February 14, 2016)

Making A
New Tradition:
Christmas Carrot Pie
by CHRISTA BEDWIN

Imagine that youre one of Western


Canadas first pioneers, and youve
just tasted your first pumpkin pie at
a church potluck.

Your family is clamouring for more of it,


and you would love to make them some,
but you didnt grow any pumpkins this
year! Will everyone have to wait for next
year before they can get that rich and
warming autumn dessert again?
Perhaps for pumpkin, but there are
plenty of carrots around just ready and
waiting to be cooked up.
The sweetness of
carrots. make them
a perfect and almost
undetectable substitute
for pumpkin
I first found carrot pie decades ago
in a pioneer womens cookbook and
knew I had to try it. The sweetness of
carrots, along with their deep orange
shade make them a perfect and almost
undetectable substitute for pumpkin.
38

Christmas Carrot Pie


Filling:
3 Tbs cornstarch
1/3 cup sugar (raw or granulated)
2 tsp pumpkin pie spice (or
approximately tsp each cloves,
nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon)
1 pinch sea salt
1 2/3 cup (400 mL) milk
(2.5 mL) tsp vanilla extract
2 cups cooked carrot puree

1. Whisk the first 6 ingredients

together, then add pureed carrots and


mix well.

2. Put the mixture into a large

saucepan and cook on medium heat,


whisking often, until the mixture starts
to bubble, about 6-8 minutes. Continue
cooking until the mixture is thick and
a visible ribbon forms when spooning it
across the top.

3. Pour the filling into the prepared

tart shell (see below) still hot, and cool


the whole mixture together for several
hours. Serve cold with whipped cream.

Did you know?


The beta-carotene in orange
pumpkins and carrots is not just
visually cheerful. Warm orange
veggies are good medicine against
winter depression, too. So fill your
menu up with orange to help combat
the late-to-rise and early-to-set sun
during the cooler months.
Spices for health! The traditional
Christmas spices: cinnamon, nutmeg,
ginger, and cloves, are all a boost for
your immune system. So add them
to your food and drinks this season to
warm your blood and beat the sniffles.

Crust:
Either use your favourite pie crust
recipe or consider pumping up
the Christmas richness with this
incredible variation:
2 cups pitted dates
1 cup pecans
1 cup almonds
cup oats or unsweetened
coconut flakes
tsp cinnamon

1. Put the dates in the food processor


and pulse until it forms a ball or makes
a paste.

2. Remove the dates from the

food processor and pulse the nuts,


cinnamon, spice and oats into a meal.
Add the dates back in a little at a time,
continuing to pulse the processor.

3. Press the mixture by hand into a

tart pan (the silicone ones are ideal as


theyre so easy to turn the tarts out).

4. Fill the tart and put in the fridge


for a few hours before serving with
whipped cream.

Christa Bedwin is a travelling writer and editor. She


has two cats, one son, and many worthy adventures
under her belt.

Icewine is expensive for several reasons,


starting with the fact that pressing a
frozen grape only yields a small amount
of highly concentrated sugary juice.
Ripe grapes left on the vine are a treat
for every passing bird or bear, and as fall
turns into winter, the wild beasts make
a banquet of remaining grapes. The
temperature has to fall to below about
-10 C for several hours and stay there
long enough for the pickers to rush
their soon to be frozen behinds (often in
the middle of the night) to pick grapes
and rush them into the press. Finally,
making good icewine isnt easy and it
takes skill and experience to turn the
juice into good icewine.

Old Man
Winter

Once released, the icewine is typically


sold in half size bottles that usually retail
for more than $50 and often more
than $100 for 375 mL. Remember
the Germans? Well they get good
conditions for eiswein about once or
twice a decade. Canada? Winter comes
every year. We got really good at
icewine really fast.

by TOM FIRTH

Making good icewine isnt


easy and it takes skill and
experience to turn the
juice into good icewine

Does Icewine age?


Its a question Ive heard
more than youd think.

Icewine has been around forever. The


Germans have been making it for
centuries and while eiswein as they call
it, can be made whenever enough grapes
freeze on the vine, even in coolerclimate Germany, it doesnt happen
often or early enough to make it an
every year treat.
40

Icewine is simply put wine made


from frozen grapes. With the advent of
modern refrigeration, one could freeze
grapes anywhere in the world, press
and ferment them, and make ice wine.
Though anyone interested in making a
good or quality-driven icewine (it is one
word in Canada), those grapes are best
when frozen on the vine.

Canadian icewine is (and should be)


in the pantheon of the great dessert
wines like Sauternes, Sherry, Port,
and others though it is a little sweet
for some. But given our fairly recent
timeline of quality winemaking in
Canada, I decided to pull out all sorts
of weird icewines from the cellar and
beg a few other bottles to see if in fact,
icewine does age gracefully.
These wines are generally no longer
available for retail purchase, and the
estimated prices reflect scarcity, auction
values or similar.

Chateau des Charmes 2004 and 2007


Paul Bosc Vineyard Riesling Icewine
St. Davids Bench, Ontario
Neither cork was in great shape,
but those are the breaks. The 04 is
significantly darker than the 07 but
aromas were pretty consistent. Both
had high-toned citrus aromas, though
the 04 was more honeyed. Acids were
pleasant all around, though the wines
were exceptionally sweet. Drink or
keep. Current vintage is about $65 at
the winery; these two bottles should be
valued about $120-140 each.
Tinhorn Creek 2006 Kerner Icewine
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Gehringer Brothers Minus 9 2009


Ehrenfelser Icewine
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Pillitteri Estates 2007 Vidal Icewine


Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

Deep colouring, with great varietal


character, spice, lemon, apricot. Really
nice acidity to balance the sugar
showing very, very well. Currently $42
estimated value $75.

Yellow-orange moving to tawny in


colour, aromas are of canned peaches,
lemon, beach ball, and lemon scented
wax. Starting to wobble, the acids arent
quite balanced by the sweetness and
fruits are oxidizing. Value about $90.

Sumac Ridge 2005


Gewurztraminer Icewine
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Summerhill Pyramid Winery


2004 Zweigelt
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Orange gold colouring with lychee,


mandarin orange, honey, and hints
of sponge toffee. Still unctuous with
acids well balanced, showing some
development to the fruits, but very
enjoyable even now. No longer being
made, estimated value around $60.

A red icewine made with the zweigelt


grape, its moving to brown with colour
similar to 10 year tawny port. Aromas are
herb and vegetable leaf with dried cherry
fruit and mahogany wood. Sorry, this
one is a bit over the hill, a bit like eating
sweetened, cinnamon-dusted sawdust.
2007 is current vintage at $148.

Jackson-Triggs 2005 Proprietors


Reserve Vidal Icewine
Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
The big hybrid for icewine is holding up
well, lemons and apricot with a little of
that vinyl character vidal is known for.
This beauty has balanced acids, great
fruits, and a long finish. Still many years
left here. About $80.

Magnotta 2007 Cabernet


Franc Icewine
Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
A bit more redness to this red icewine,
but still quite brown. Aromas are
subdued with pepper and dried wood
over softer bruised fruits. A little tired
but wow, this is tasty. Maraschino
cherries, spice, and a little summer fruit.
Very interesting. Worth about $75.

The 2006 is still quite bright and pale,


with floral aromas, apple core, and
lemon pie on the nose. Still excellent,
some minor bottle development is
bringing subtle layers of caramel
awesome. I prefer this one over the
recent vintages of the same wine.
Valued about $40 per 200mL for
current vintage.

Canadian icewine is in
the pantheon of the great
dessert wines

NkMip Cellars 2009 Qwam Qwmt


Riesling Icewine
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Bright yellow in the glass with lemon,
mineral, apricots, and a touch of apple
cider on the nose. Again quite sweet,
but zingy acids cut through and bring
some balance. The lemon fruits are
just starting to move to dried lemons,
but this is going to go for a while yet.
Excellent. $52 at the winery, current
value about $80.
Tom Firth is the contributing drinks editor for
Culinaire Magazine and the competition director
for the Alberta Beverage Awards, follow him on
twitter @cowtownwine.
41

Making The Case


by TOM FIRTH

In December, it would be easy to just recommend


dessert wines for fancy meals or sparkling wines
for New Years Eve celebrations, but really the
best wines are good quality wines that impress the
palate, or complement a meal, or that you save for
a special occasion with friends or family.
That said, sharing wine with people you love
is the perfect time to open a nice bottle.
Have a safe and happy holiday season!

Gaja 2010 Pieve Santa Restituta


Brunello di Montalcino Cru Rennina
Tuscany, Italy
At a tasting of all the Gaja wines on
the market (a pretty magical day for
sure) this was one that sung on my
palate. Fresh picked black cherry, cassis,
pepper, and clove and much more on
the nose lead to an oh my moment on
the palate. Layered and contemplative
a treasure. Cellar five years if you can,
but will go much, much longer.
CSPC +716652 about $180-190

Catena Zapata 2010 Malbec Argentino,


Mendoza, Argentina
A blend of grapes from the Adrianna and
Nicasia vineyards, this captivating bottle
showcases blueberries over raspberry
fruits with violets and a little citrus peel
and herb aromas. A mighty wine in
the glass as expected, but with full and
balanced fruits to match the tannins.
Drink or keep 5-10 years, but whenever
you decide to open it, plan on beef
tenderloin or NY steak. $110
CSPC +660118

Gaja 2013 Magari


Bolgheri, Italy
A merlot blend with 25 percent each of
cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc,
this single estate gem is rife with cedar
and currant characters along with plenty
of spice. Full-bore tannins and gobs of
fruit, this is classic, beautiful, and a keeper.
Should sing with game meats or well-aged
cheese. CSPC +709345 about $61
42
42

CedarCreek 2014 Platinum


Block 3 Riesling
Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Taittinger NV Prlude Grand


Crus Cuve, Champagne, France

Taittinger 2005 Comtes de


Champagne Blanc de Blanc
Champagne, France

A bottle of riesling should always be


chilling in your home. This dialed in
riesling has such wonderful balance
between mineral, acidity, citrus fruits,
and a pinch of sweetness, I couldnt put
down the glass. Drinking perfectly this
winter, but should develop nicely over
the next few years too. $28
CSPC +340691

If I could drink this everyday I would,


no question. Lush and intense, with
dried lemon fruits, bright mineral
characters, and a long, evolving
experience on the tongue. To try to pin
down too many notes or descriptors
(other than Hell Yeah!) would be a
disservice, but this is a wine I want to
share with someone I love. Worth every
penny at $95 CSPC +719323

Catena Alta 2012 Malbec


Historic Rows, Mendoza, Argentina

Bollinger NV Special Cuve


Champagne, France

Burrowing Owl 2013 Malbec


Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A well-known malbec for good reason,


look for wonderful ripe fruits with
savoury herbs, liquorice, and pepper
spices. Nicely balanced by firm tannins,
and bright acids as well as a loamy earth
character. A beautiful malbec
for malbec fans, enjoy with beef of
all types, though something from the
smoker would be a treat. About $50
CSPC +521849

Enjoy champagne the way James


Bond does. Dress up your evening (or
morning, who am I to judge) with this
bright, crisp champagne bursting with
tight apple fruits, a little bread crust,
and a sleek finish, all wrapped up with
a steely mineral character. A perfect
match with strawberries, but also good
with popcorn and a movie for a NYE in
with a special someone. $85
CSPC +384529

Although malbec may seem to some


to only come from Argentina, its value
as a blending grape means it pops up
everywhere from Canada to France.
Dense black fruits on the nose with
dried herb and spice, while on the
palate, its full of firm tannins, great
acids, and the right flavours to impress
any malbec fan. Drink now through
2020, enjoy with beef. Retails for about
$40 CSPC+1118353

JoieFarm 2013 Gamay


Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Fonseca Bin 27 NV Reserve Port


Douro, Portugal

Lanson Black Label NV Brut


Champagne, France,

Gamay is such a hot grape right now


and its easy to see why. Peppery spice
profiles with strawberry and raspberry
puree fruits with lighter tannins and
some lovely acids. Perfect for holiday
dinners big and small or just as a nice
alternative to a pinot noir. Drink now.
About $27-28 CSPC +760431

A very approachable and well-priced


port to grace your table this December.
Rich berry fruit structure with gentle
spice and herb aromas and a long,
graceful finish. A near-staple at my
house over the winter, its a great
match with brownies, a little cheese, or
chocolate cake. CSPC +156877 $22-23

A consistently high performer at


the Alberta Beverage Awards, this
champagne has everything you need
for a special occasion. Tart apple and
citrus fruits with light toasty characters
and a zesty finish. A perfect tipple for
appetizers, lighter seafood dishes, or just
relaxing. $53-57 CSPC +41889

An incredible treat for your palate, with


layers of lemon and late-picked apple,
mineral, creaminess and subtle toasted
coconut and nuttiness. The epitome of
elegance in champagne, you just cant
help feeling like one of the upper crust
or a captain of industry with a glass of
this in your hand. A joyful experience.
A little north of $200 in most shops
CSPC +514398

43

The Hot Toddy:


Warm Your Body And
Soothe Your Soul
With The Sweet
Heat Of Rum!
by PATRICIA KOYICH

The snow is falling, ice crystals are


in the air, hibernation is imminent,
but for some thoughts of skiing,
skating and/or snowshoeing exhilarate
and excite. I shiver just thinking of it.
During the winter months we tend to
gravitate to sweeter, richer flavours that
bring us a sense of warmth and comfort.
Thoughts of a crackling fire, a good book
in hand, a warm mug of hot chocolate,
or a snifter filled with soothing spirits
like Cognac or a fine whisky in reach,
are sure to bring a satisfied smile to your
face.
In the past three to five years, brown
spirits have definitely grown in
popularity; bourbon stole the show this
past year for sure, but what about rum?
Sipping rum might appeal to those who
find Armagnac or Cognac overwhelming
or too intense. The sweet nature of
this spirit, particularly of quality, aged,
dark rum, can take you on an aromatic
journey while experiencing robust and
intriguing flavours on the palate.
The history of rum is fascinating, dating
back to the 1600s with distillation
taking place on the sugarcane
plantations in the Caribbean. Enjoyed
locally, it was also sold to naval officers
to sip on to better endure the harsh
conditions of life at sea later part
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of the rum ration for sailors but


also used for medicinal purposes, rum
soon became a valuable commodity
in worldwide trade. Rich in influence,
politics, rebellion, acquisition,
prohibition and celebration, the stories
of rum and its producers are passionate
and unique, not unlike the flavours
found in each bottle.

Why mix it into a cocktail


creation and not just enjoy
it on its own?

The majority of rum production


worldwide is still in the Caribbean. Rum
is made by distilling fermented sugar
and water. This sugar came from sugar
cane initially, but more recently sugar
beets are used. Molasses, incidentally,
is the sweet, sticky residue that remains
after sugar cane juice is boiled and the
crystallized sugar is extracted.

The history of rum in cocktails is as


rich and romantic as the exotic places
from where the spirit is known, so for
the holiday season try these versions of
classic holiday cocktails to warm your
body and soothe your soul!

Hot Rum Toddy (Classic)

1 tsp unsalted butter


1 tsp brown sugar
Vanilla extract
Optional spices to taste: cinnamon,
ground nutmeg, allspice
2 oz dark rum
Hot water

Place the butter, sugar and spices at the


bottom of a coffee glass or mug. Mix
well or muddle, then pour in the rum
and hot water. Stir.
...or you can make a large batch of the
base mix and keep it in the fridge.

Hot Rum Toddy Base Mix


(Classic)
Approximately 25 servings
3 cups brown sugar
cup unsalted butter
3 Tbs honey
1 Tbs rum extract
1 Tbs vanilla extract
1 tsp ground nutmeg
1 tsp ground allspice
1 tsp ground cinnamon

Mix the ingredients using a beater until


everything is blended together. Store
in a well-sealed jar in the refrigerator
until needed.
To use in a Hot Toddy:
Pour 1 oz of dark rum into a coffee
glass or mug. Add a heaping spoonful of
the hot buttered rum mix. Fill with hot
water (not boiling) and stir well.

Egg Nog (Festive)

Bacardi Nocturno (Sipping)

If you are not up for making this


yourself, stop in at the Ship & Anchor,
as they have been serving their infamous
Eggnog for over 18 years!

1 oz of dark rum
oz of coffee liqueur
Orange peel

5 eggs
cup of berry sugar
1 cup dark rum
cup brandy
1 cups light cream
1 cup heavy cream
Nutmeg

1. Separate the eggs. Beat sugar into

egg yolks at high speed until thick and


sugar has dissolved.

2. Stir in rum, brandy and light cream.

Chill for several hours (3 hours at least).

3. Beat egg whites until stiff, beat

heavy cream until stiff. Fold egg whites


and the whipped cream into the yolk
mixture. Pour into a punch bowl and
sprinkle over fresh ground nutmeg.

The stories of rum and its


producers are passionate
and unique
Fill a tumbler glass with ice cubes and
pour in the coffee liqueur. Then slowly
pour in the dark rum and stir briefly.
Cut a round coin of orange peel
and hold a lighted match just above
the drink. Then hold the orange peel
(coloured side down) above the lighted
match and squeeze the peel over the
flame. Finish up by dropping the twist
into the drink.
Patricia Koyich was born and raised in Calgary, and
considers Calgary one of the best cities in the world.
She continues to inspire, learn and achieve within the
Food, Beverage and Tourism industry.

To Find a Retailer Visit liquorconnect.com/312686

Spice Up The Holidays


With Beer!
by DAVID NUTTALL

spicy (adj.) 1. Having the flavour, aroma, or quality of spice.2. Piquant; zesty.
Nothing encapsulates the holiday
season in a bottle quite like spiced
beer. Many people have their own
definition(s) of spicy- so much so, that
one mans zing can be another mans
bland. To some it means hot, as in
chili peppers. To others, it means having
a zesty flavour. It can also mean that
something simply has spices added to it.
Fortunately, the beer world covers them
all with several beer styles which can be
considered spicy, for many and varied
reasons.
Beers with added spices and herbs
occupy 4 subcategories alone in the new
2015 Beer Judge Certification Program
guidelines. Using their definition, these
are beers with spices... (that) are
the dried seeds, seed pods, fruit, roots,

bark, etc. of plants, and herbs are


leafy plants or parts of plants (leaves,
flowers, petals, stalks) as well as nuts,
chili peppers, coffee, chocolate, spruce
tips, rose hips, hibiscus, fruit peels/zest,
rhubarb, and the like.

Chili peppers have also become popular,


as they can provide both sweet and
hot flavours to anything from lagers to
stouts. Most of these beers are made in
small batches, and are available only in
limited quantities.

Whoa, that covers a lot of ground. Given


that the base beer can be any style, you
can find all sorts of (insert spice or herb
here) stouts, porters, IPAs, ales, lagers,
etc. These beers are especially popular in
the fall, when autumn spice (especially
pumpkin) and winter/Christmas beers
flood the market, evoking the flavours
of Thanksgiving or Christmas dinners
and desserts.

It may surprise people that many


Belgian (and Belgian inspired) beers
have spice additions as well. As a former
part of the Netherlands, with their East
and West Indies Trading Companies,
the Belgians began using tropical spices
in their beers half a millennium ago.
Although the use of spices is permitted

Of the beers widely available year


round, alcoholic ginger beer has become
a favourite in recent years. Many taste
much like the non-alcoholic version,
while others have just enough hint of
ginger to give them an added zest.

These beers are


especially popular
when winter/Christmas
beers flood the market,
evoking the flavours of
Christmas dinners
in many varieties of Belgian beers, the
most popular style is witbier (literally,
white beer). This slightly cloudy,
refreshing ale is made with the additions
of orange peel and any combination of
spices ranging from chamomile, cumin,
cinnamon, Grains of Paradise and more.
Many other Belgian beers also appear
to have added spice, but it is the
mainly the yeast that produces that
impression. Belgian brewers use all
kinds of yeast strains, even wild ones,
which produce esters, phenols and
fermentation by-products that emulate
spicy characteristics. Likewise, German
hefeweizen ale yeast produces fruity
esters of banana or citrus and phenols

46

of clove and even bubble gum. Some


grains can also add a spiciness to the
beer, the most predominant being rye.
Look for its distinctive spicy sharpness in
North American rye beers and German
roggenbiers.
Lastly, but certainly not least, are
the hops. In the last 40 years or so,
Americans, especially from Washington
and Oregon, have been cultivating
hops with high alpha acids which have
changed the way people have been
drinking beer. These hops have the
ability to produce many aromas and
flavours, from grapefruit and other
citrus fruits, to floral, all the way to
pine, liquorice, black pepper, and other
characteristics. With Belgian yeasts
now being used in North America and
American hops crossing the Atlantic
to infiltrate the new craft breweries
of Europe, there is no end in sight to
whatever and/or however brewmasters
want to season their beers.

Some Varieties of Spicy Beers


Saugatuck Serrano Pepper Ale
This beer is exactly what youd think
it is an amber ale spiced with fresh
Serrano Peppers. This strong ale finishes
with a fair amount of heat, befitting
the peppers rating of 15,000-25,000
Scoville units. (650 mL, 6.8% ABV,
CSPC +767890, $9)

Fine Wines

Spirits

Beer

Hoegaarden
You could write a book about this
570 year old brewery located in
the small Belgian town of the same
name, and the man, Peter Celis, who
resurrected it from the dead in 1965.
Its wheat and barley base and noble
hops are combined with coriander and
dried Curaao orange peels. Often
imitated, the witbier category owes its
renaissance to this beer. (6 pk, 4.8%
ABV, CSPC +554089, $19)
Royal Jamaican Ginger Beer
Ginger grows perfectly in Jamaicas
climate, and their non-alcoholic ginger
beer is famous the world over. This
alcoholic version is made with fresh

ginger, Cascade hops, cane sugar, and


a bit of new crop rum. The ginger notes
dominate the aroma, and the flavour has
the heat to complement spicy foods.
(6 pk, 4.4% ABV, CSPC +741988, $17)
Bangalore Torpedo IPA
Fort Saskatchewans brand new Two
Sergeants Brewing created this British
IPA/Double IPA cross. At 100 IBUs,
the spiciness comes from the citrus
and pine flavours youd expect from
Pacific Northwest hops, but it is so well
balanced that it finishes with a caramel
smoothness. (6 pk cans, 5.7% ABV,
CSPC +772342, $17)

Complimentary wine, beer or spirit tastings every Friday

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featured weekly Hot Buy products

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Over 100 beers from around the world - Over 400 varietals of wine - Over 300 types of spirits

www.prattsnewines.ca

Chocolate
Porter
Brownies
For
Winter
by NATALIE FINDLAY

This brownie recipe is


sure to become a winter
favourite in your home;
full of rich, chocolate
flavour, not-too-sweet,
and quick and easy to
make, it leaves plenty of
time to enjoy an afternoon
in the snow or by the fire
with a book. Try them
warm, with a scoop of
vanilla bean ice cream on
the side.
These brownies can be
frozen and are just as
delicious great for a
make-ahead dessert or a
warming winter treat.
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Chocolate Porter Brownies


125 g brown sugar
1 eggs
1 Tbs (15 mL) vanilla extract
100 g butter, melted
140 g chocolate, melted
40 g all-purpose flour
50 g cocoa powder
1 tsp baking powder
50 mL chocolate porter beer
75 g pecans, toasted, roughly chopped
50 g chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 350 F.

1. Line a 8x8 baking pan with foil.


2. Place brown sugar and eggs in
a large bowl or mixer, and whip on
medium-high speed until doubled
in volume.

3. Melt butter on the stove or in

the microwave. Melt chocolate in a


microwave or over a double boiler,
stirring gently as it melts. Slowly add
the melted butter into the melted
chocolate, stirring gently.

4. With the mixer on low speed, slowly


combine the butter/chocolate into the
brownie mixture.

5. Sift cocoa powder, flour and baking

powder together in a small bowl. On low


speed, slowly combine into the mixture.

6. Pour in the chocolate porter and

combine. Slowly pour into the brownie


mixture. Fold in the chopped pecans and
chocolate chips.

7. Pour brownie mixture into lined


baking pan. Bake 15 - 18 minutes.
Let cool.

8. Turn brownies right side down on

a cutting surface, remove foil and return


to right side up. Cut into squares.
If freezing brownies, wrap with foil,
label and freeze in desired amounts for
easy access.
Note: To kick this dessert up a notch,
add a chocolate porter float. Simply
use the rest of the bottle of chocolate
porter beer and top with a scoop of
vanilla ice cream.

Open That Bottle


by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Ive always had a great love of food, and I was lucky


enough to grow up in a family that embraced that, and
where good food was always something that happened,
says Gwendolyn Richards.
Growing up in Vancouver, Richards was
greatly influenced by her stepfather,
who, as a cab driver, worked nights, and
would make curries from scratch and
full roast beef dinners midweek. Her
grandfather was sixth generation ItalianCanadian and also a very enthusiastic
cook; they would make pesto and pasta
together from a very young age.
An A/B+ student all through high
school, Richards rejected math and
calculus for a writing major, and
studied at UVic, signing up for co-op
and working at a variety of different
newspapers. After graduation, she hired
herself out as a fill-in editor for small
newspapers, parachuting in so they
could take vacation or medical leave.
A year teaching English
in Japan followed, before
a Masters in Journalism at
UBC, which provided an
opportunity to connect
with major dailies. After a
contract with the Globe and
Mail, Richards applied at
the Calgary Herald, and was
brought in on a six-month
contract with no guarantee
of employment. 12 years
later and Im still here,
she laughs. I was hired as
a news reporter, and then
transferred to the cop desk.
With shift work, she had
a lot of free time during
the day when working
50

nights, and in 2007, decided to start a


food blog, Patent and the Pantry. It
occupied her day and also provided a
creative outlet, combining her love
of food and cooking, and her passion
for photography.
I would make recipes and post them,
and do little personal essays, she says,
until she wrote up her week with her
little sister to find the best burger in
the area. The Herald ran the story
and actively encouraged her to write
more. When their food writer left five
years ago, she took over the position.
And the funny thing is that I hesitated
because I was afraid I would miss the
news, she says.
Richards relentlessly pushes
herself, and decided to write a
cookbook without taking any
time off work. She took all the
photos herself and tested recipes
through the night. Since its
release in November last year,
Pucker has sold more than
4,000 copies.
So what bottle is Richards saving
for a special occasion?
In 2012, a friend invited her
for Thanksgiving, and knew
bourbon was her drink but
didnt know anything about it.
The liquor store recommended
St. George Breaking & Entering,
a blend of bourbons from
different distillers.

At the end of the night, I decided that


I should buy a bottle, says Richards. I
went to Kensington Wine Market and
asked for Breaking & Entering, and they
had special bottles that they had handselected and had bottled exclusively
for them, from one barrel. It was a
celebration bottle, so I bought it.
And when is she planning to open
that bottle?
I thought Ill open it when I hand in my
manuscript for Pucker, and I didnt,
says Richards. And then I said I will
open this when I hand in the photos,
and I didnt. I will open this when I do
the first edits, and I didnt. I will open
this when I get the book, and I didnt.
Its still unopened and Im not sure when
Ill open it because in the interim, Saint
George spirits has stopped making it.
She adds, If I couldnt even do it when I
handed in my book manuscript, Im not
really sure whats going to top that. Its
now become a floating target that I just
keep pushing back. When its gone its
really gone!

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