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The process by which a textile material is changed physically or chemically so that it looks
colorful is called Coloration.
Methods of coloration
There are 2 types of methods1. Continuous method
2. Discontinuous or exhaust method.
Continuous method:
This is the process where fabric moves continuously by the guide rollers. Fabric gets a very
short time in liquor and goes to another bath in a continuous manner. So auxiliaries and additives
can be applied in different bath. This process is done in open width form. So it has less crease
mark problem. Normally dyeing of woven fabric is done by this method.
Exhaust method:
This is the process by which exhaustion is done by immersing the fabric in dye bath. This is a
discontinuous process. Fabric stays a long time in the liquor. This fabric is not connected to
another bath. So all dye auxiliaries and additives are applied to fabric or liquor in the same bath.
Dyeing is occurred in rope form, so there is some possibility of remaining the crease marks.
Normally Knitted fabrics are dyed in this method.
Sequence of Knit Fabric Dyeing
Lab dip approved
Batching
Dyeing
Cold Wash
Hot Wash
Soaping
Scouring & Bleaching can be done in single stage or double stage. But mostly in single
stage.
Scouring-Bleaching
For scouring & bleaching at first the fabric is loaded on to the bath .
Scouring Agents (Caustic/Soda) & Stabilizer are added by the aid of dosing when the
temperature reaches at 50 C.
H202 is added by the aid of dosing system for 5 .
Temperature is raised to 98 C & the process is carried for 60
The liquor is drained at 80 C.
After that chemical wash & enzyme wash are done.
Function
Soda ash
Wetting agent
Sequestering agent
Stabilizer
Per oxide
Enzyme treatment
Enzyme treatment technologies are frequently applied in textile processing for the
modification of fabric handle, appearance and other surface characteristics in regard to cotton
and cotton blended fabrics.
Hairiness of the surface is removed by enzyme treatment.
REACTIVE DYE
A dye, which is capable of reacting chemically with fabric to form a covalent dye-fabric
linkage, is known as reactive dye.
Here the dye contains a reactive group & this reactive group makes the covalent bond with
fiber polymer & act as integral part of fiber.
Reactive
dyes
are
soluble
in
water.
As a salt NaCl is used widely. Salt do the following thingsIt increases the affinity of fiber.
Alkali:
Alkali is used for the following purposesIt is used to maintain the proper pH.
It is used as a dye fixing agent.
Without alkali no dyeing will take place.
As strong alkali Caustic Soda is used.
As medium alkali Soda ash is used.
As weak alkali Sodium bi-carbonate is used.
Soaping agent:
By soaping the extra color is removed from fiber surface. Thus wash fastness is improved.
Soaping increases the stability of dye.
Dyeing of a pre treated fabric (Reactive Dyeing)
Dyeing Bath Preparation :
pH maintained at 6.5-7
A recipe of cotton dyeing by reactive dye
(Recipe can vary according to Time-Target-Place)
Shade
Up to 0.5%
20-30
0.5-1%
30-40
1.0-2.0%
40-50
8-11
2.0-3.0%
50-60
11-14
3.0-4.0%
60-70
14-15
Above 5%
90
15
Dyeing Mechanism
Exhaustion phase.
Fixation phase.
Dyeing Procedure
Exhaustion & Fixation :
After every 10 the sample is checked fixation occurs during this time.
Soaping :
Then soaping agent is added & temperature raised to 90-100C for 10 min.
Production Parameters
Process
Temp(
pH
Time min
M : L ratio
98
11.5-12
60
1:8
Enzyme wash
55
4.5-5
60
1:8
Enzyme Deactivation
70
Reactive Dyeing
60
C)
Scouring
Bleaching
(Light Shade)
10
10.2-10.8
60
1:8
Reactive Dyeing
60
10.9-12
60
1:8
(Dark Shade)
if the solution of dye is kept for long time its concentration drops. Then the dye reacts with the
hydroxyl group of water. This reaction of dyes with water is known as hydrolysis of reactive dye.
After hydrolysis dye can not react with fiber. So hydrolysis increases the loss of dyes.
For preventing hydrolysis the following precautions should be takenAs hydrolysis increases with the increasing temperature; during dissolving & application,
Acetic acid
pH required for disperse dyeing is 4-5. Acetic acid maintains the pH.
Dyeing of polyester fabric with Disperse dye (carrier method)
Recipe:
Dye = x% (0.5%-2.0%)
Carrier (Phenol) = 3 g/L
Acetic acid = 1 g/L for maintaining pH
Dispersing agent = 2 g/L
Salt,(NH4)2SO4 = 1-2 g/L
pH = 4-5.5
M:L = 1:10
Time = 60 minutes
Temperature = 900C
Dyeing of polyester fabric (High Temperature method)
Recipe:
Dye = 3%
Acetic acid = 1 g/L for maintaining pH
Dispersing agent = 1 g/L
pH = 4-5.5
M:L = 1:8
Time = 60 minutes
Temperature = 1350C
Carrier method vs HT method
Carrier method
3. Not so costly.
6. More shrinkage.
6. Less shrinkage.
7. Method is in use.