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(Excerpt

from David Stanleys book)

Solomon Islands- Self Governing Entities

!
Tikopia
!

The three-by-five km dot in the ocean, 120km southwest of the nearest


other dot (Anuta) is an ancient volcano with a crater lake, Te Roto rising to
366 meters. Pandanus trees surround the brackish lake waters, home to
ducks and fish. The inhabitants of both Tikopia and Anuta are Polynesians
who arrived in planned expeditions from Wallis Island some 14 generations
ago. Wallis itself was colonised from Tonga, thus this is an outpost of the
old Tongan culture.

Tikopia is ruled by four chiefs. Until recently, these chiefs did not recognise
the central government, but now, the number two chief, Ariki Tafua, has
indicated his willingness to submit, much to the fury of the other three. The
only thing preventing the Ministry of Police from establishing a post on the
island is the fact that the Police Commissioner in Honiara is himself a
Tikopian. The British inserted a clause in the Solomon Islands constitution
asserting that Tikopia and Anuta would be self-governing until the chiefs
jointly decided to integrate with the rest of the country, and there will
probably be a legal challenge if Honiara attempts to take control on the
basis of only one yes vote.

There is no electricity, all the houses are traditional, and ground is


cultivated with sticks. As a precaution against famine, food is fermented in
the ground for upto two years. The women cut their hair very short. Most
Tikopians go topless.

Yachties often visit Tikopia without clearing Solomon Islands customs.


They are allowed to stay if they present each of the four chiefs a nice gift,
such as four gallon drums of kerosene, lanterns, flashlights, bush knives,
axes, files, fishing nets, guns, perfume etc. Shops and govt. offices do not

exist except for a well equipped clinic. The Reef is only toilet. Very few
people speak English; Pidgin or a Polynesian Language would be more
useful.

!
Anuta
!

Anuta is only less than a kilometer across and 65 meters high. The
population is divided into four clans-the first two are ruled by chiefs. The
island of Anuta is one of almost a thousand islands that make up the
Melanesian nation of the Solomon Islands. Together, this group of islands
cover a land mass of 28,400 square kilometres. Anuta island has been
known as te fatu sekeseke, the slippery stone, due to it being such a small
spot in the ocean -just half a mile in diameter and 70 miles from the next
populated island, so hard to find and so easily slid away from. Political and
geographical circumstances have isolated Anuta and its Polynesian
population throughout history.

The chiefs are highly regarded on the island. Taboos exist surrounding
behaviour in their presence: the Anutans think of the head as sacred and
the feet profane, and therefore, physical height in rituals is important.
When inside the chiefs hut, people must crawl; standing up and being
higher than the chief is very badly thought of. Anutans often greet each
other with a traditional Polynesian nose kiss or pikita.

When greeting the chief it is normal to press ones nose against the chiefs
knee. The chief then lifts his hand under the persons chin and lifts their
face so that both parties are pressing noses. Although Christianity has taken
the place of many of Anutas traditional beliefs, certain practices such as
this are still strictly followed.

Fishermen are the only Anutans who earn money. If they catch shark, they
cut off the fins and dry them. The fins are then sold to passing cargo ships
or in the capital city, Honiara, when the fishermen get the opportunity to
leave the island.

It is common for men to leave Anuta in the pursuit of wage labour overseas.
This time away, often throughout the Solomon Islands, can range from a
few months to years. Wage workers occasionally send money or goods to
relatives back on Anuta, and those returning to live on the island often
bring back a supply of manufactured goods.

One of the major effects of overseas contact is a dispute between the


generations over health care. Anutans who have lived off the island often
get a taste of western medical care, but there are no modern medical
facilities when illness strikes back on the island.

In the late 1990s the chiefs on Anuta and their advisors refused to accept
western medicines on the island. They argued that such a move would
indicate a lack of faith in the church. It is thought by many of the Anutan
elders that medicines on the island will attract more disease.

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