Cutting

Factors considered for making ply height in

fabric spreading
7:29 AM

Fabric spreading:
Fabric spreading means multiple layers of one on one placed on wide and long
table for cutting from folded large fabric roll. Each layer of fabric is called fabric
ply which are spreading to produce garments. The process of fabric spreading is
done after marker making. Then according to marking fabric are being cut via
automatic cutting machine or manual hand cutter. It is a common scenario in
cutting section while bulk production is going on in a factory. But during spreading
we should consider fabric thickness and the number of fabric layer must not cross
more than three hundred. Cutting guy should empathize on fabric spreading to cut
the fabric and sewing properly and proper shape.
Reasons considered for ply height determination:
For fabric spreading we should consider some parameters. Please find a narrative
discussion regarding fabric spreading and factors that influence the lay height as
well:

1) Fabric nature: Nature of fabric also

affects to fix ply height. Some fabric yearn construction and context is smooth but
some are stiff or some are slippery. In this regard, same number of plies of cotton
fabric can be cut but synthetic fabrics are not being cut.
2) Fabric thickness: Fabric layers depend on thickness. If thickness is more than
the number of plies or layers are inputted less in quantity. And vice versa is true.

3) Number of production: The layers number of fabric up and down according to

order volume in bulk production. If, it belongs to bulk production, the number of
plies is more and the layer height will be more. And the vice versa is true.
4) Cutting knife height: There are three common knife heights like 7", 8" and
10" used in cutting table. It is used in different fabric as per thickness. Generally 7"
and 8" is used for twill, chambray, end on end soft fabric and 10" blade is used
especially for polar fleece, padded substance or flannel fabric. Cutter should check
carefully that the lay height must not exceed 70% of the cutting knife height if used
straight knife cutting machine and if used round knife cutting machine then the lay
height must not cross 40% of the blade diameter.
Cutting

Bulk Fabric Cutting Procedure in Garment

Industry
7:39 AM

Cutting is an important part of garment industry. Cutting section does their job as
per production plan. Whenever fabric received from material department to issue
production line cutting section has to follow so many steps. To ready issue for the
production line cutting section has to follow the following steps.
For example as per production plan style A will be input from 20th August in the
XYZ factory, 3rd floor > line- B. Then floor APG will request to cutting section
concern person for size set cutting. Meantime concern APG will collect approved
sample and update comments from merchandiser and handover to cutting team.
Cutting team will check with pattern maker to make sure the pattern and collect
marker from cad section to prepare the size set cutting.
Size set cutting:

1. Fabric should collect from material department as per material list for 50-100
pics.
2. Should collect trim card, work sheet and assortment.
3. Prepare to cut each size 2 pieces and arrange issue to production line.
4. After size set making, floor APG will arrange a pre production meeting.
5. Concern merchandiser, floor APG, floor technician, pattern maker, material
department, buyer quality all have to attend in pre production meeting.
6. During pre- production meeting, all have to review those size set samples to
discuss regarding production obstacles and find solution to smoothness the
production line. Then proceed for final cutting.
Bulk Cutting:
1. Make cutting plan by opti plan software.
2. Receive cutting approval report from quality department.
3. Make consumption and approved by concern merchandiser.
4. Make requisition slip to receive required fabric from material department.
5. Fabric received from material department as per approved consumption.

6. Spreading fabric as per trim card, make layer, checked by quality team, cutting,
bundling, numbering, panel inspection and issue to production line.
7. If need to arrange hit transfer, embroidery, fusing, printing etc. Please separate
those cut panel bundle and send to concern department to add those features.
Re-cut and panel rejection replacement:
Cutting section has to arrange reject part cutting after panel inspection. Some time
has to replace sewing reject or re-cut for short quantity. If require more fabric than
actual fabric consumption, cutting team has to face concern merchandiser for that
and has to provide proper document to erase short shipment.
Beside this, to do the above cutting section has to maintain some format and report
to concern department regularly:
1. Consumption report hard and soft copy.
2. Daily cutting report hard and soft copy.
3. Daily cutting variance report hard and soft copy.
4. Opti cutting plan hard and soft copy.
5. Lay sheet format (hard copy).
6. Cutting approval sheet (hard copy).
7. Panel inspection report (hard copy)
8. Re-cut request copy (hard copy)
9. Marker work sheet (hard copy)
10. Marker plot requisition (hard copy)
11. Sewing rejects slip
12. Reject fabric requisition slip
13. Delivery Chellan book for printing, washing, embroidery, sewing etc.

Fabric Cutting devices using in apparel

industry (Part - 2)
9:54 PM

Today I will describe some other cutting devices using in apparel industry due to
priority of time, usages and demand.
8) Auto ARM Cutting:
Auto arm cutting machine mainly used for different functions. Those apparels
which having puffiness item like padding, fusing or something that time need auto
arm cutting. By this process first padding item lay down onto a conventional
cutting table equipped with air vacuum system by men or spreader and upon that
fabric computerized marker paper need to be set and upon it a polythene layer need
to be set. After that by under table air sucking machine all air need to be sucked to
reduce the puffiness for easy cutting then start cutting by cutter.
It is a perfect cutting tool for garment industry. Auto arm cutting machine exist a

Semi-automated straight knife cutting device which has increased its efficiency but
operator should wear steel hand gloves to protect from any rough incident during
cutting.
Merits of Auto arm cutting Machine:
1. Semi-automated appliance which increase efficiency and easy to control
2. Low noise, stable running, long life and easy to maintain
3. Easy operation and high productivity
4. Auto knife grinding and the blade can be replaceable if needed.

9) Drilling and Marking Machines:

Basically this device mainly used to make a hole whenever need to insert eyelet or
other accessories in a particular position of the garments for functional purposes,
such as for the position of button-hole, darts, pockets and similar features; a hole is
often drilled from beginning to end of all the plies of fabric in the lay. Drilling and
marking machines perform through several layers of fabric for simplified
indication of buttonholes, eyelets, darts and pockets for sewing applications.
These devices are available in both hot and cold configurations with a variety of
dills and awls. Moreover, this is enriched with numerous options.

10) End Cutter:

It is another supplementary tool for cutting section. It mainly used to cut the edge
of the fabric ply to expedite fabric spreading onto cutting table. It can be fixed to
any type of cutting table with an easy to use compressing bracket, cutting of
extensive stuff with large table options (up to 144" wide / 3.66m wide), with an
extended handle option or a push/pull handle option for enormously wide cuts
needing more than one operator. Automatic knife grinding system and easy to
operate, low power consumption etc. End cutters are available in manuallyoperated or automatic configurations.

11) Round Knives:

A dual speed option gives it flexibility of this appliance and a circular blade
rotating so that the leading edge cuts downwards into the fabric. To cut large radius
curves and straight lines, round knife machine is a supreme device in apparel
industry. Round knives are available with different blade sizes, customized designs
and the blade can be replaceable if needed to maximize cutting effectiveness and
increase productivity simultaneously.
Applications Especially fabric parts cutting, trimming, slicing, scoring etc.
Materials Round knives usually made by carbon steel, grooved and PTFE coated
blades to maximize cutting speed.
User benefit Features:
1. Heavy-duty, lightweight, high speedy round knives - appropriate for cutting
materials such as cotton, canvas, woolens, linen, silk, denim, coated fabrics,
chemical fiber and leather etc.
2. Having features concentrated lubrication, easy to maintain, portable and stable
running.
3. Low sound, constant running, easy to handle and high effectiveness.
4. Automatic knife grinding and easy to operate, low power consumption etc.
It is a substitute device against straight knives in apparel industry. Though round
knives perform well but this device is not popular as like as straight knives.
Operator should wear steel hand gloves to protect from any rough incident during
cutting because it contains a sharp knife.
12) Rotary blade:

Rotary blade cut intricate markers, one of a kind patterns, samples, reworks, plastic
and rubber sheeting. It consists of a handle with a circular blade that rotates, thus
the tool's name. Rotary cutter blades are very sharp, can be re-sharpened and are
available in different sizes. At the same time more than a few layers of fabric can
be cut by a sharp rotary blade.
Applications Small parts cutting, trimming, slicing, scoring etc.
Materials Rotary blade usually made by high carbon, stainless steel with a
circular blade that rotates and the blade can be replaceable if needed.
Rotary blade mainly used in sample room to cut sample fabric, it is not suitable for
bulk fabric cutting.
13) Water Jet cutting machine:
This is another method of computer controlled fabric cutting. In this method a tiny
water jet (0.0010-0.0015") under incredible pressure (70,000 lbs per square inch) is
forced and guided through the fabric. Under such conditions the water. Jet cuts
through the fabric as these moves through the cutting line; the method does not wet
the fabric or exert unacceptable pressure. This system can cut multiple ply lay and
does not fuse plies. The method still has limited applications like In cutting leather,
vinyl fabrics, etc.
Advantages:(1) It can cut hard material like leather, Vinyl fabrics etc.
(2) It can cut any shape;
(3) It does not need frequent knife grinding.
Disadvantages:
(1) Not suitable for multiply high depth lay;
(2) Generates water spots;
(3) May wet cut edges;
(4) Water needs to be filtered and iron removed;
(5) Sound of water jets need to be controlled.
14) Plasma Torch cutting machine:
This is another method comparable to laser jet machine suitable for single ply
cutting. The system was developed by Investronica and designed special matching
system that can automatically match and cut printed striped and check fabrics. The
system incorporates a camera that reads the fabric on the conveyor and a digital
image processor determines the best way of matching fabric. In this system argon
gas is forced through a minute nozzle and the gas burns in a minute flame, which
cuts fabric. The system can cut single or multiple ply but more suitable for single
ply cutting.

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