HOW TO DESIGN THE PERFECT PLANTER

AND DECK DETAIL

By Geoffrey C. Thompson BE, AMI Chem. E. Technical Director
Wrimco Waterproofing Division of Laser Sonics Pty. Ltd.

Fig. 1 TYPICAL PLANTER & DECK DESIGNS

The drawing above shows a number of variations which are all based on a suitable waterproof
membrane; and in the case of planters, protection board to the base and side with 30mm
drainage cell and 1mm filter fabric in the base.
The various elements and design options are discussed below.
Membrane Selection
Since single layer Plasticised PVC hot air applied plastic sheet membrane is not really an
option for planters and arguably for decks, the choice of membrane boils down to:

Single layer SBS elastomeric torch applied sheet membrane using West Indian bitumen
with double detailing at the perimeters, corners and drains;
Two layer APP (wax) plastomeric torch applied sheet membrane;
Urethane liquid applied elastomeric membrane, solvent based;
Urethane modified acrylic plastomeric membrane, water based; or

Latex bitumen or pure SBR latex rubber membrane, also water based, and often used
with cement as a waterproof tile adhesive (Screedbond).

The torch-on SBS is preferred because of its guaranteed thickness, longer life and excellent
adhesion, which is superior to APP because it contains no wax. The West Indian bitumen in
SBS gives longer life compared with the Middle East bitumen in APP membranes.
The urethanes, and especially the pure urethanes (ie. normally not black) which have a longer
life than the bitumen extended urethanes, are the optimum choice for planters that are less than
600mm wide and for decks that are curved or have many small diameter drains.
The recently developed water based urethane/acrylics are essentially acrylics but with superior
elastic properties. Together with SBR latex, they are best used on less critical balconies rather
than over habitable rooms or planters with bases. The standard acrylics are good for external
walls and for sealing off mortar beds so white porous-type tiles do not discolour from damp
cement.
Fillets
The 50x50mm sand/cement fillets are a carry over from the old hot bitumen days but are still
recommended for APP. With SBS however, the lower melting point enables it to be used as an
angle fillet or double detail. This is preferred because the sand/cement fillet can easily cause
problems such as loss of adhesion and cracking if not applied correctly.
For the liquid applied membranes 10x10mm fillets of urethane sealant are used. Although
incorrectly referred to as bond breakers, the elastic properties help to provide a good seal
where low movement is to be expected. A properly designed joint with closed cell
polyethylene (PE) foam backing should be used if there is likely to be medium to high
movement. (Fig. 2)
Fig. 2

Protection
There are essentially four types of protection board on the market:

Fibre cement (FC) sheet is seldom used unless a rigid load bearing sheet is required
because it is heavy, quite brittle, breaks under stress unless uniformly supported and is
more expensive than the alternatives.
Polypropylene (PP) corrugated sheet 1.2x1.8m is satisfactory for planter bases but
because it is practically impossible to adhere to any membrane, it is undesirable to use
on a planter wall unless it can be held in place mechanically such as a Z section or by a
flashing.
Extruded/laminated polystyrene board (EPXL) is supplied as a fan fold or concertina
sheet that opens up to approximately 1.2x15m. It is easily adhered with styrene
compatible glue or simply adhered to an APP or SBS membrane by briefly heating the
membrane with a propane torch and then pressing the EPXL to the molten bitumen
surface. It is more flexible than the PP so is preferred for curved walls and also acts as
an expansion joint. With an R-value of 0.2 (equivalent to 54mm concrete), it is
frequently used for thermal insulation and its impact sound deadening qualities
confirmed by the CSIRO make it very cost effective for external decks over habitable
rooms.
Expanded polystyrene board (EPS) is white in colour and quite brittle so normally must
be at least 20mm thick.

Of the four, the dedicated EPXL (Wrimco PB4) has the best combination of properties and is
certainly the most versatile and easiest to apply.
Drainage Cells
The 30mm injection moulded PP drainage cell with 1mm filter fabric on top definitely requires
the use of a protection board as the edges are quite sharp and can easily cut into the membrane
and particularly soft urethane rubbers. Since it comes in 360x360mm squares, it is difficult to
use for the sides of planters and provides no useful function in this configuration.
Heavy rain will never flood a properly designed planter unless the drain becomes blocked. In
this case water overflowing down the insides will simply exacerbate the problem. However, if
required for structural reasons such as a brick retaining wall, the injection moulded drainage
cell is wrapped in filter fabric.
For shallow landscaped areas with good falls, there is a 10mm dimpled PP drainage cell with
filter fabric factory applied on top (Delta) which may be used in conjunction with the 30mm
drainage cell over drains that are set down 20mm. A similar product has loose filter fabric on
both sides (Coredrain). Both are often used vertically but normally have to be nailed in place
which naturally may cause problems with the membrane. Such applications may well be
counter productive as they will only make the problem worse if drains become partially
blocked.

Drains
To prevent water forming a dam from double detailing or sealant fillets around PVC drains, the
surface should be set down 3mm as sketched so water does not pool around these critical
locations. (Fig. 3)
Fig. 3

Many proprietary drains make no allowance for waterproofing so care must be taken in
their selection.
To provide ready access to a planter drain, and to act as an emergency overflow, an extension
pipe with slots near the bottom to drain the water from the drainage cell is sometimes used. It is
probably unnecessary if 50mm of double-washed river sand is used to prevent the 1mm filter
fabric from blocking up.
Sometimes an overflow spitter, which is situated flush with the base, is used to provide
drainage, but this must have a diameter of at least 60mm to facilitate SBS membrane
application and should preferably be positioned 3mm below the base as sketched so there is no
dam effect and have 1% fall. (Fig. 4)
Fig. 4

Conduits and Pipes

Electrical conduits should always be rigid PVC (not corrugated Plasticised PVC) and should
never pierce the wall so near to the base that they become impossible to waterproof. If they
must come out of the base, then they should be protected so they do not break when the soil is
dumped into the planter. The end of the conduit should be turned down and the cable sealed
with a ring of 6mm closed cell PE backing rod and sealant. (Fig. 5)
Fig. 5

Copper irrigation tubing as well as conduit should always be installed before the membrane is
applied to ensure proper sealing.
Topping before or after
Most planters end up with poor falls and the question often asked is whether it is preferable to
correct before or after applying membranes. Provided a sound topping is properly applied
(eg.Screedbond to enhance adhesion of new to old, 3:1 mix), the latter is normally preferred,
despite the general advantage of waterproofing structural elements rather than applied finishes.
The ideal solution is to provide good falls to the drains in the first place but often this is
difficult to achieve in practice.
One advantage of topping after is that there is then no need for protection in the base. To guard
against any damage to the main membrane when the topping is applied, a liquid applied
membrane such as latex bitumen could be applied over the topping. In this case protection
would be required.

Terminating Membranes Planters

Various ways of terminating membranes and combining with supplementary waterproofing are
shown in Fig. 1.
With so many planters being constructed from reinforced blockwork, which is so much more
porous than concrete, the challenge is to prevent water bypassing the system. The other
requirement is to mechanically hold the protection board in place and to facilitate maintenance.
Both these requirements can be met by sealing and rawlplugging a 20x10x20mm aluminium Z
section normally 100mm below the top and rendering down onto it, with the render then
waterproofed with acrylic membrane. The Z section may also be advantageously used to
support an internal face stone.
Where there is a complex of planters and possibly pools, it may be best to membrane the deck
before the blockwork walls are built. It is preferable to install the rebar after the membrane and
then seal it, especially if torch-on SBS membrane is used, but it can be done before. APPs
would not be suitable here because of poor adhesion due to the wax and higher melting point.
With membrane under the walls of the planter, there is no need to waterproof the render but it
is still worthwhile to prevent efflorescence due to the presence of lime (CaO) and dampness in
the external wall.
Where there is a capping stone or flashing, this should project at least 10mm inside the planter
so the protection board is not proud but is sheltered at the top. This enables the membrane and
protection board (preferably the PB4 because of its excellent ability to be adhered) to go to the
top with the membrane turned over to waterproof the top. (Fig. 1 RHS)
If waterproofing before rendering is preferred, take the membrane down onto the Z section as
shown using the factory applied granular SBS to provide a good surface for the render to
adhere. (Fig. 6)
Fig. 6

Safety First
Wherever possible, the cautious designer should avoid a planter wall abutting a habitable room
and it should certainly not form part of the main structure. (Fig. 7) The architect should aim for
a fail safe design so if, for example, a flashing is missed or is defective, water will escape
externally rather than penetrate internally.
Fig. 7

Since it is always preferable to avoid applying the main membrane to a topping or applied
finish and particularly render because of its porosity, if rendering is done before waterproofing,
then it must be cut straight 100mm down from the top. After curing it should be sealed with
acrylic before applying the membrane.
If a whole wall has been rendered and it is not practical to remove it, the 20x10x20mm Z
section can be sealed and rawlplugged into a 20mm slot cut out of the render and subsequently
filled with sealant or render. This effectively brings the main membrane onto the structural
wall.
Terminating Membrane Decks
Since mortar shrinks, it is preferable to separate it from the membrane with an expansion joint
such as Abelflex closed cell polyethylene around the perimeter. If it remains exposed, such
as for a concrete wall, then the membrane should stop 10mm below finished tile height so the
tiler can caulk after removing the 10x10mm pre-slit section. Acrylic membrane or solvent
based acrylic sealer should then be applied 50mm above to prevent wind driven rain bypassing
the membrane.
When the wall has already been rendered and cut off 100mm from the bottom, then apply the
membrane to full height. The tiler lays against Abelflex cut to finished tile height and the gap
is filled in with render and often a face tile used to cover the joint. Some tilers prefer to use
6mm EPS cut and fitted 6mm below finished tile height and use silicone sealant to fill the joint
thus formed.
Where terminating under a sliding door, the membrane should finish on the upturn to under a
flashing. Particularly with torch-on SBS, the membrane itself can be used as a hidden
additional flashing, as shown. (Fig. 8)

Fig. 8

Since designers often prefer the outside tiled surface to be flush with the inside, thus creating a
problem with wind driven rain. The answer is to fix an angle behind where the window/door
frame is to be installed and apply the membrane onto it as illustrated. (Fig. 9) This effectively
raises the height of the step. Since the membrane is being turned over a 90 edge, it should
have a radius of 5mm.

Fig. 9

Reglets are seldom used nowadays except for Plasticised PVC since they are installed by a
formworker and thus involve another trade and add to the cost. They are also difficult to align
properly. Where a positive termination of the membrane is required for an exposed concrete
wall, a convenient and inexpensive solution is to saw-cut the wall 2mm and seal 20x25x1.6mm
aluminium angle as a flashing/pressure seal. (Fig. 10) Another method is to rawl plug a 30mm
aluminium strip over the membrane and caulk with silicone or urethane sealant.

Fig. 10

Specification
Visit our site (www.lasersonics.com.au) for comprehensive NATSPEC specifications that
incorporates the design and selection principles outlined above. These specifications not only
encompass planter design, but also tanking (essentially the same as for planter walls) and
roofing. Roofing may incorporate either protection/insulation board and pebbles (IRMA); or
granular surfaced SBS exposed or under seated pavers; or UV resistant urethane membrane.