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Drinking the Feast: Alcohol and the Legitimation of Power in Celtic Europe
ARTICLE in CAMBRIDGE ARCHAEOLOGICAL JOURNAL MARCH 1999
DOI: 10.1017/S0959774300015213
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1 AUTHOR:
Bettina Arnold
University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
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Archaeological Journal:
Drinking the Feast: Alcohol and the Legitimation of Power in Celtic Europe
Bettina Arnold
Cambridge Archaeological Journal / Volume 9 / Issue 01 / April 1999, pp 71 - 93
DOI: 10.1017/S0959774300015213, Published online: 14 October 2009
Bettina Arnold
heavily patinated by Christian influences, but preserving earlier non-Christian elements; 4) the archaeological record, primarily from the Continent, since
the burial and settlement record of the British Isles
for the Iron Age is much less well documented or
preserved (Raftery 1994).
This discussion will attempt a text-aided, cognitive interpretation of the archaeological evidence
for drinking and feasting behaviour from the Late
Hallstatt period in west central Europe (600-400 BC),
with reference to late Iron Age evidence from the
British Isles and the Continent. It is at this time that
the peoples known as Celts begin to appear in recognizable form in the material record, but the contemporary Mediterranean written sources are meagre
and problematic. The different sources of information intersect or overlap to some extent, so there will
be some repetition of the more seminal arguments.
The information offered by Classical sources for Celtic
drinking practices will be examined first.
The contemporary classical sources: strange
people and weird practices
The general formula followed by most Classical authors describing the alien cultures on their peripheries was modelled on Herodotus and consisted of
several categories of information: 1) population; 2)
antiquity and ancient history; 3) way of life; 4) customs (Tierney 1960,190). Unfortunately for modern
scholars the unusual and bizarre aspects of the last
two categories were generally recounted in some
detail, while information considered mundane, common knowledge or uninteresting was less frequently
recorded. Two pitfalls facing the modern scholar
attempting to derive 'facts' from these accounts are
'Randvolkeridealisierung' (Tierney 1960, 214) and
'ethnographische Wandermotive' (Tierney 1960,201).
The first is the tendency of Classical ethnographers
to romanticize or demonize 'exotic' peoples. The second refers to the borrowing of descriptions of customs from accounts of one culture and transposing
them wholesale or only slightly modified to a completely different group of people, whenever hard
facts were lacking or could benefit from being fleshed
out in a more dramatic way. The problem of successive 'borrowings' of another ethnographer's ideas
and/or descriptions over several centuries has been
discussed elsewhere (Tierney 1960; Nash 1976).
Despite these potential difficulties, several significant themes related to Celtic drinking and feasting behaviour (both insular and continental) recur in
Classical sources. Some of these themes, particularly
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. . . a king or chief supported at his court a 'warband' or 'retinue', a bodyguard of picked and
trained professional warriors whose special task it
was to defend him in battle with their lives, and
whose memory would be disgraced if he were killed
and they had not died fighting to save him. In
return for this professional military service, the
lord supplied them with board and lodging, weapons, presents, and the rest; and, as feasting in the
great hall was the supreme form of this, it is
summed up metaphorically as their 'mead' . . .
'Mead' is the stock metaphor, but the same idea is
sometimes expressed of other drinks (Jackson 1969,
36).
Jackson points out the similar part played by mead
in Anglo-Saxon heroic poetry, and quotes a warrior
in Beowulf: T remember the time when we used to
accept mead in the banqueting-hall, when we promised our lord who gave us these arm-rings that we
should repay him for our war-equipment if ever
straits like these befell him' (Jackson 1969, 37).
Sherratt makes essentially the same point in his description of Homeric Greece:
... access to wine and the ability to provide ostentatious feasts were important levers of political
power: the Homeric hero 'feasts at equal feasts',
forming alliances and securing the following of his
own warrior band... The dynamics of such chiefly
or aristocratic societies have parallels both in ethnographic descriptions and in the world of the
Norse sagas (Sherratt 1995,19).
I would argue that the similarities between Celtic
feasting and Homeric Greek or Norse commensality
are functionally linked to social organization, whereas
the similarities between late Hallstatt feasting and
that described in the insular literature are due to a
fundamental cognitive continuity. This continuity
can be traced through the material culture related to
feasting in the Celtic world. For example, several
Classical authors describe the equipment used by
the Celts at their banquets. Athenaeus mentions servers bearing around the drink in 'terracotta or silver
jars like spouted cups. The trenchers on which they
serve the food are also of these materials, while others they [sic] are made of bronze, or are woven or
wooden baskets' (Athenaeus IV 36, p. 151 E^152 D:
Tierney 1960, 247). The 'jars like spouted cups' described here are probably Etruscan-inspired Schnabelkannen, and although the ones found in graves are
primarily of bronze, ceramic 'spouted jars' are known
from:
Durmberg Graves 34,52,56, 71,85,103,154, Austria;
Poix Grave 41, Marne, France;
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Multiples of three as a means of describing the preparations for a banquet, the quantity of food and drink
consumed, the numbers of guests, and the length of
time required to consume the provisions laid before
the company are a constant theme in the Irish and
Welsh literature. Mael Duin and his company 'sleep
an intoxication of three days and three nights' during
their visit to the lofty island (Stokes 1888, 487). At
the island of the brazen fortress they are refused
entrance twice: "Then they saw before them in the
house a couch for Mael Duin alone and a couch for
every three of his people . . . She gave a share (of
cheese) to every three' (1888, 491).15 It takes Carpre
Cathead and his fellow conspirators three half years
to prepare their feast in Morand's Fiirstenspiegel, and
they spend nine nights feasting before the visiting
Number symbolism and feasting in archaeology
noblemen are murdered (there are, naturally, three
and literature
conspirators) (Thurneysen 1929, 65). In the Mabinogi
it takes Owein three years to prepare the banquet in
'Question: How many banquets are there? Answer
honour of Arthur's arrival, and three months for his
Three; a godly banquet, a human banquet, a demon
banquet' (Senchus Mor, vol. 3, in Hennesy et al. 1865- company and Arthur's to consume it (Gantz 1976,
209). The allowance of meat and drink to officers
1901,19). Celtic society is characterized by a heavy
and attendants at the court of Ancwyn is quoted by
emphasis on number symbolism, especially multiPowell as follows: 'The Penteulu: his allowance is
ples of three. Given the ritual as well as socio-politi76
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be attended by tribesmen from these petty kingdoms also . . . Most important of all was the provincial fair, held in the neighbourhood of the chief
stronghold and attended by all the tribes of the
province; it lasted several days, and there was an
elaborate programme of public business and entertainment (Binchy 1958,124-5).
The fact that these individuals are 'outside' society is significant and emphasizes the role of the
banquet or feast as a mechanism for enforcing and
maintaining social order. This passage is one of the
oldest in the Senchiis Mor, which supports the contention that although drinking behaviour as recorded in the laws has obviously been modified
by the influence of Christianity18 (the godly banquet is described as given 'for heavenly reward')
(Hennesy et ah 1865-1901, vol. 3, 25), it is clearly
an ancient institution.
The human banquet not only strengthened and
reinforced the bond between a chieftain and the warrior nobles in his retinue, it also served to rank his
followers according to their relative status within
the uppermost echelon. This practice, also described
by Athenaeus, is well illustrated in the following
passage from the Mesca Ulad:
His drinking house was afterwards arranged by
Conor according to deeds, and parts, and families;
according to grades, and arts, and customs, with a
view to the fair holding of the banquet. Distributors came to distribute, and cup bearers to deal and
door-keepers for door-keeping. Their music, and
their minstrelsy, and their harmonies were played.
Their lays, and their poesies, and their eulogies
were chanted for them; and jewels, and valuables,
and treasures were distributed to them (Hennesy
1889,13).
The function of a feast as a reaffirmation of an individual's relative ranking in the group is symbolically represented by the coire aisicain or ansirc, which
is described as follows in 'Cormac's Adventure in
the Land of Promise':
It was a cauldron of this kind that used to be of old
in every hostel of the royal hostels of Erin. And this
is why it was called coire aisic, 'cauldron of restitution', because it used to return and to deliver to
every company their suitable food... Now each in
turn was brought up to that cauldron and everyone was given a fork-thrust of it. So then his proper
portion came out to each, to wit, a thigh to a king
and to a poet, a chine for a literary sage, a shinbone
for young lords, heads for charioteers, a haunch
for queens, and every due share besides. Wherefore in that assembly his proper due fell to each
(Stokes 1891,206).19
In return for services rendered,20 the chieftain is
praised for his generosity at the end of a feast; again
the Mesca Ulad:
When they were merry, Senchas clapped his hands.
They all listened to him. 'Give ye, now, your blessing on the Prince who has protected you, who has
79
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The distribution of alcohol as a means of maintaining kingship or sovereignty was one aspect of Celtic
* drinking practices. Alcohol also served the purpose
of establishing an insular chieftain, lord, or king
through its consumption by the new ruler at his
inauguration ceremony or banais rigi. In effect, alcohol was the vehicle by means of which divine sanction was transferred to the mortal individual being
established in a position of power. The rhyme words
laith, 'liquor' andflaith, 'lord, lord-ship', and the etymological identity of Irish/7fl/7/j/lord, lord-ship' and
Welsh gwlad, 'country' underline the fundamental
nature of this aspect of insular Celtic kingship
(Wagner 1975,11).
If alcohol was the medium or vehicle by which
kingship was passed on to each new ruler, it was
sovereignty in her role as earth goddess," embodied
in the epics by the king's wife, who was the arbiter
of this transfer of power to a new earthly vessel.
Binchy, Dillon, O'Rahilly and a host of other scholars have explored the connections between laith and
flaith and the role of the queen or earth goddess in
the inauguration ritual. O'Rahilly shows that the ancient inauguration ritual of the kings of Tara and
Connacht amounted to a symbolical mating (feis,
banfeis) with the local earth goddess (1946, 114ff.).
There are numerous examples of this connection in
the literature.
Intriguing hints of this symbolic mating are
found also in the archaeological record of the continental Iron Age. An Etruscan situla from Sanzeno is
decorated with scenes which combine fertility symbolism (men with oxen ploughing a field, a man and
a woman embracing on a couch) with drinking equipment. The man and woman are being attended/
anointed by a figure holding a dipper in one hand
and a situla in the other. Could this be a figural
representation of a banfeis in an Etruscan context?
Representations which link erotic scenes with ploughing are also found on the Nesactium and Monte81
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tain, 500 litres of mead to smooth the way to sovereignty on the Other Side) may have been the equivalent of a social status passport. Similarly in Celtic
burial rites, which are rarely mentioned in the insular literature:
The Celtic chieftains were interred with all their
personal insignia and trappings, equipped as warriors, with their chariots, weapons and accoutrements necessary to the Otherworld where they
would partake, not as their reward but as their
right, of the Otherworld feast and continue an existence in no way markedly different from the one
they had known in life (Ross 1967,357).
Documentary references to the feasting equipment
itself are also of interest in interpreting the archaeological evidence on the Continent. Although cauldrons in the later literature tend to be mentioned in
association with eating (in discussions of the king's
or hero's portion, for example), there are several
descriptions of large drinking vessels. Wagner
records one such instance from the Tochmarc Emire
[The Wooing of Einer], the 'iarn-gnalae . . . the enor-
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represent lineage monuments, as the site of clan chieftain inaugurations. The consumption of food and
drink at such inauguration rituals and subsequent
community festivals can also be assumed, although
at present the archaeological evidence for such activity is relatively scanty.
The link between drinking equipment in Iron
Age burials and the relative position of the individual in society is also important. One of Kossack's
basic assumptions is that the inclusion of drinking
equipment in an otherwise average wealthy grave is
an indication of the special status of the individual
thus interred:
Of course not every male grave of the early Hallstatt
period outfitted with a sword, horse trappings and
a four-wheeled wagon included such a drinking
vessel assemblage. But where this is the case, such
a grave good set imbues a grave with extraordinary importance. In these cases one must assume
that a form of social distinction is being represented, and that such warriors belonged to a group
which was not only united by a common conception of 'knightly' existence, but also shared a special drinking ritual across significant geographic
distances (1964,103, translated from the German).
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wild boar ferocity, cunning, swiftness and endurance were somehow thought to be transferable
through the tusks (and possibly other perishable body
parts such as the tail or the hide) to the individual in
the burial. Such objects were probably worn during
life also, for the amuletic qualities mentioned.
Bulls or oxen are similarly important design
motifs (Wells 1981,137), in part also because of their
economic significance. In the Irish epics the bull symbolized leadership and sexual preeminence. This is
well illustrated in the Tain by the defection of the
bull Finnbennach to King Aillil's herd, 'refusing to
be led by a woman' (Kinsella 1985, 55) i.e. Queen
Medb. Bulls are referred to seven times in the
Gododdin (Jackson 1969,107, 111, 129,132,136,145 &
154). Bulls and wild boars are the most frequently
invoked animals in the poem; other animals which
appear in descriptions of heroes are lions, bears,
wolves, stags, oxen, serpents, eagles, hawks and dragons (Jackson 1969, 41). Unlike boar/pig, however,
cuts of beef are rarely found in burials, although
faunal analysis from settlements shows cattle were
clearly the most important source of meat in Early
Iron Age diet (von den Driesch & Boessneck 1989,
140). The apparent avoidance of beef in Early Iron
Age mortuary contexts in the West Hallstatt area
might repay closer examination, considering its significant representation in contemporary settlement
contexts.
Celtic drinking behaviour and equipment can
be linked to the Etruscans and the Greek colonies of
the Mediterranean coast during the Hallstatt period,
and to the Roman world during the La Tene period.
The Greek symposium has occasionally been cited as
the inspiration for Celtic import of Mediterranean
wines from 600 BC, but Etruscan influence seems
better supported by the archaeological evidence.
Pasquier discusses the role of women in drinking
behaviour in those cultures with whom the Celts of
west central Europe had contact. He bases his arguments mainly on depictions of women and drinking
practices in Greek and Etruscan art, and notes the
absence of women as active participants in Greek
feasting scenes (Pasquier 1988, 329). When women
do appear in Greek drinking and feasting scenes,
they appear in the passive role of servers. Etruscan
art, on the other hand, depicts women as active participants in the drinking and feasting activity, apparently equal to men in rank and status. Pallottino
notes that
in Etruria woman's place in society was remarkably high, and certainly quite different from that of
Greek women. The fact that women took part with
86
men in banquets, far from being a sign of dissolution as maliciously stated by many Greek writers, astonished and scandalized at a custom quite
foreign to the Greeks of Classical times is a mark
of social equality (1975,137).
Pasquier regards this as evidence of a close affinity
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historic times, as the material record and the literature attest. The sharing of food and drink has deep
social and often religious significance in many cultures, serving as a social lubricant while simultaneously communicating messages of membership and
exclusion. This was particularly true in Celtic society, where communal feasting served to rank individuals in relation to one another while confirming
and strengthening existing relationships of dependence and dominance.
The hypotheses presented here suggest interesting avenues for further research. Drinking equipment is not found in every wealthy Iron Age burial.
It follows that this artefact complex must have particular significance beyond the obvious display of
wealth.32 This discussion has presented evidence for
a connection between Celtic drinking and feasting
equipment and sovereignty or political control over
others. Up to now the term 'chieftain's grave' or
Filrstengrab has been indiscriminately applied to any
Iron Age grave in Western Europe with an above
average accumulation of 'luxury' grave goods. The
arguments developed here show that this term should
be applied only to those burials which contain a full
range of drinking and feasting equipment, including
an especially large metal storage vessel, in addition
to the usual trappings of a wealthy Iron Age individual. The next step would be to examine the regional and temporal distributions of burials of this
description to determine 1) whether the hypothesis
is supported by the archaeological evidence available, and 2) if so, what this might tell us about territorial boundaries and the size and organization of
population groups in the Early Iron Age. By the end
of the early La Tene period these sets of drinking
vessels disappear, together with the Fiirstengrtiber
(Biel 1985,95). There is good evidence that this time
saw a breakdown of the existing social order, and it
is not surprising that the balance between the chieftain and his warrior elites maintained through drinking ritual should temporarily vanish from the
archaeological record. That it did not disappear permanently is evidenced by the importance of that
same institution in the maintenance of insular Celtic
kingship in the later literature.
10.
11.
12.
13.
89
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
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90
feasting activity, as Pasquier points out. Dietler's discussion of the evidence for 'aboriginal' drinking practises in Early Iron Age Europe agrees with Pasquier's
conclusions regarding the indigenous genesis of this
activity (1990,374-5).
30. This seems to be true of dlite Iron Age burials in
France as well (Bouloumie 1988,377).
31. Thanks are due to an anonymous reviewer for suggesting this possible interpretation.
32. Kimmig deals with this issue as well: 'These examples
show that a basic set of objects was associated with
especially elite individuals, which could be varied
from one case to the next, in which however certain
vessel types were more or less stringently required...
especially with respect to drinking horns, which are
seldom absent in well-documented elite graves' (1983,
170, translated from the German).
Bettina Arnold
Department of Anthropology
University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee
Milwaukee, Wl 53201
USA
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