La Dolce Vita
Down Under From breakfast with kangaroos in the Blue Mountains to a
16-course dinner at Sydney’s top table, Anita Carmin finds New South Wales’
culinary scene diverse, vibrant, and cutting-edge cool.
Stodgy roasts, mushy vegetables, and canned lager?
Australian food may have suffered a bad (“like British food,
only worse”) rap in the past, but times have changed. Today,
you’ll find quail with seared sea scallops, soy glazed duck
breast with caramelized black fig, and confit of Tasmanian
ocean trout on your dinner plate — complemented, of
course, by world-renowned Australian wines.
I say this with authority as I eat my way through
New South Wales, one of the planet’s premier foodie
destinations due to its abundance of fresh produce and
seafood, spectacular wine regions, and a wealth of world-
class, multicultural chefs.
What brings me — and boyfriend Robert — to this
seductive corner of the world? A two-week New Zealand-
to-Australia cruise (see Virtuoso Insights, Aug./Sep. 2009),
that we’ve decided to top off with a four-day gourmet
excursion beginning in Sydney, a city that clearly has it
Clockwise from upper left: A feast for the eyes: sweet red
muscat wine, or Australian “sticky”; blintz with sour cream, red
caviar, and sliced cucumber; fresh figs; scallops on the half-shell;
30 Virtuoso Insights
and the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge at sunset.
all: drop-dead-gorgeous scenery; friendly, good-natured
residents; a cosmopolitan verve coupled with a laid-back
beach vibe; and a smoking-hot culinary scene. It’s the
down-under version of la dolce vita.
In a perfect world, we would spend a week or so exploring
Sydney and its environs, but our time here is short — and
we have a lot we want to see, sip, and sink our teeth into.
Jill Atherton, EuroPanache’s Sydney-based wizard of Oz,
has worked her magic and personal connections to give us a
rich yet easily digestible taste of the region’s highlights. First
course: a personalized private city tour. Our driver/guide
Glenn Wendt is a delightful and engaging host (read: no
canned commentary or corny jokes) as he deftly navigates
Sydney traffic, pointing out and stopping at the must-sees:
Observatory Hill, Darling Harbour, Sydney Opera House,
Mrs. Macquarie’s Chair, The Rocks, Hyde Park.
More La Dolce Vita Down Under on page 32 P
Virtuoso Insights 31
 We pass by Nicole Kidman’s and Russell Crowe’s
waterfront digs, cruise down Castlereagh Street, the Rodeo
Drive of Sydney, and make a special trip to up-and-coming
Danks Street, a hip arts hub with nine galleries under one
roof. I’m dying to nosh at nearby Sopra, the happening
café attached to Fratelli Fresh, where Sydney foodies and
chefs shop for handmade pastas, unusual produce, and
all manner of gourmet goodies. But we’re conserving our
appetites for this evening’s gustatory marathon.
Don’t ask me how, but Jill managed to snag
the best table at Tetsuya’s for our eagerly
awaited, 16-course degustation dinner. This was no
small feat, as Tetsuya Wakuda’s eponymous restaurant is so
acclaimed — many rate it the best restaurant in Australia,
if not the planet — that it can take months to secure a
reservation. It helps that Jill is on a first-name basis with
“Tets,” who makes an impromptu visit to our table to say
hello and oblige us with a photo.
Japanese-born Tetsuya arrived in Sydney in 1982 with
a small suitcase, a limited grasp of English, and little
awareness of Australia other than “there were lots of
koalas and kangaroos around.” He’s indicative of the
We even manage to polish off
two desserts before our seaplane returns
to whisk us back to Sydney.
While Sydney is stunning on the ground, it’s spectacular by
air. Which is why EuroPanache has arranged a morning seaplane
flight showcasing not only the world’s most photographed
harbor, but also the series of breathtaking beaches hugging the
northern coastline. After 20 minutes aloft, we land dockside
at Cottage Point Inn, once a boatshed and general store, now
an award-winning restaurant perched on the water’s edge in
the heart of Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park. A more tranquil
setting does not exist, and barely 12 hours after our last repast,
we’re ordering a pinot noir from Western Australia to accompany
our three-course lunch on the deck.
We begin with chilled tomato and basil soup, topped with
white anchovies, cucumber jelly, avocado puree, and Yarra Valley
salmon roe. Robert chooses the Hiramasa kingfish fillet for his
main course; I opt for the soy glazed duck breast with caramelized
black fig. We even manage to polish off two desserts — a feather-
Our schedule allows for one more Aussie
adventure: a trip to the majestic Blue Mountains
National Park, located just 90 minutes outside of Sydney.
Named a World Heritage Site in 2000, the Greater Blue
Mountains Area attracts outdoor enthusiasts and gourmands
alike as chefs here outdo each other, showcasing the fresh local
produce in a variety of innovative ways. We have reservations at
Lilianfels Blue Mountains Resort & Spa, the former nineteenth-
century summer retreat of Sir Frederick Darley, who could
not have chosen a better site on which to build his Euro-style
country estate. Surrounded by two acres of lush English gardens,
it’s just a stone’s throw from the famous Three Sisters, the
oft-photographed sandstone formation that towers above the
Jamison Valley.
More La Dolce Vita Down Under on page 34 P

From top: Tetsuya Wakuda’s roasted lamb with miso;
Chef “Tets” in his eponymous restaurant; and Sydney’s
sparkling skyline.
industrious immigrants who have made Sydney the light banana and honey soufflé and an exquisite Tunisian orange
dynamic multicultural city that it is. After seven years in cake — before our seaplane returns to whisk us back to Sydney.
the restaurant business, he opened his own place, where
foodies immediately embraced his elegant and eclectic
dishes marrying French cooking techniques with a Japanese
penchant for seasonal flavors. A perfect example: Tetsuya’s
signature confit of Tasmanian ocean trout, which tonight
is served with a kelp, apple, daikon, and wasabi salad. Fill yourself with health and life,
This is followed by a terrine of Queensland spanner crab with culture and flavor, with music
with avocado; grilled fillet of barramundi with braised and tradition.
baby fennel; and twice-cooked spatchcock with gobo Get away from routine
(burdock root). and give yourself some time in Yucatan.
From start (chilled corn soup with saffron and vanilla ...where it’s everything you want.
ice cream) to finish (chocolate ganache with green tea and
red beans), each course is a delicate work of art. What’s
more, the degustations provide an opportunity to taste a
wide range of Australian varietals. And since our short stay
doesn’t allow for a wine country excursion, Robert and I
relish the opportunity to sample everything from a 2003
Clover Hill Blanc de Blanc, a sparkling chardonnay produced
in northeast Tasmania, to a lovely 2003 Parker Estate
Terra Rossa Cabernet Sauvignon from South Australia’s
Coonawarra region.
It’s nearly midnight by the time we head back to The
Observatory Hotel, which comes highly recommended due
to its ideal location in the historic Rocks District. Not only
is The Observatory close to all the city’s famous sites and
culinary attractions, it’s a foodie destination in and of itself,
offering Galileo, Sydney’s leading five-star hotel restaurant.
There’s also the stylish Martini Club, the ideal retreat for
sipping signature martinis and enjoying Rat Pack classics.

32 Virtuoso Insights
 We pass by Nicole Kidman’s and Russell Crowe’s
waterfront digs, cruise down Castlereagh Street, the Rodeo
Drive of Sydney, and make a special trip to up-and-coming
Danks Street, a hip arts hub with nine galleries under one
roof. I’m dying to nosh at nearby Sopra, the happening
café attached to Fratelli Fresh, where Sydney foodies and
chefs shop for handmade pastas, unusual produce, and
all manner of gourmet goodies. But we’re conserving our
appetites for this evening’s gustatory marathon.
Don’t ask me how, but Jill managed to snag
the best table at Tetsuya’s for our eagerly
awaited, 16-course degustation dinner. This was no
small feat, as Tetsuya Wakuda’s eponymous restaurant is so
acclaimed — many rate it the best restaurant in Australia,
if not the planet — that it can take months to secure a
reservation. It helps that Jill is on a first-name basis with
“Tets,” who makes an impromptu visit to our table to say
hello and oblige us with a photo.
Japanese-born Tetsuya arrived in Sydney in 1982 with
a small suitcase, a limited grasp of English, and little
awareness of Australia other than “there were lots of
koalas and kangaroos around.” He’s indicative of the
We even manage to polish off
two desserts before our seaplane returns
to whisk us back to Sydney.
While Sydney is stunning on the ground, it’s spectacular by
air. Which is why EuroPanache has arranged a morning seaplane
flight showcasing not only the world’s most photographed
harbor, but also the series of breathtaking beaches hugging the
northern coastline. After 20 minutes aloft, we land dockside
at Cottage Point Inn, once a boatshed and general store, now
an award-winning restaurant perched on the water’s edge in
the heart of Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park. A more tranquil
setting does not exist, and barely 12 hours after our last repast,
we’re ordering a pinot noir from Western Australia to accompany
our three-course lunch on the deck.
We begin with chilled tomato and basil soup, topped with
white anchovies, cucumber jelly, avocado puree, and Yarra Valley
salmon roe. Robert chooses the Hiramasa kingfish fillet for his
main course; I opt for the soy glazed duck breast with caramelized
black fig. We even manage to polish off two desserts — a feather-
Our schedule allows for one more Aussie
adventure: a trip to the majestic Blue Mountains
National Park, located just 90 minutes outside of Sydney.
Named a World Heritage Site in 2000, the Greater Blue
Mountains Area attracts outdoor enthusiasts and gourmands
alike as chefs here outdo each other, showcasing the fresh local
produce in a variety of innovative ways. We have reservations at
Lilianfels Blue Mountains Resort & Spa, the former nineteenth-
century summer retreat of Sir Frederick Darley, who could
not have chosen a better site on which to build his Euro-style
country estate. Surrounded by two acres of lush English gardens,
it’s just a stone’s throw from the famous Three Sisters, the
oft-photographed sandstone formation that towers above the
Jamison Valley.
More La Dolce Vita Down Under on page 34 P

From top: Tetsuya Wakuda’s roasted lamb with miso;
Chef “Tets” in his eponymous restaurant; and Sydney’s
sparkling skyline.
industrious immigrants who have made Sydney the light banana and honey soufflé and an exquisite Tunisian orange
dynamic multicultural city that it is. After seven years in cake — before our seaplane returns to whisk us back to Sydney.
the restaurant business, he opened his own place, where
foodies immediately embraced his elegant and eclectic
dishes marrying French cooking techniques with a Japanese
penchant for seasonal flavors. A perfect example: Tetsuya’s
signature confit of Tasmanian ocean trout, which tonight
is served with a kelp, apple, daikon, and wasabi salad. Fill yourself with health and life,
This is followed by a terrine of Queensland spanner crab with culture and flavor, with music
with avocado; grilled fillet of barramundi with braised and tradition.
baby fennel; and twice-cooked spatchcock with gobo Get away from routine
(burdock root). and give yourself some time in Yucatan.
From start (chilled corn soup with saffron and vanilla ...where it’s everything you want.
ice cream) to finish (chocolate ganache with green tea and
red beans), each course is a delicate work of art. What’s
more, the degustations provide an opportunity to taste a
wide range of Australian varietals. And since our short stay
doesn’t allow for a wine country excursion, Robert and I
relish the opportunity to sample everything from a 2003
Clover Hill Blanc de Blanc, a sparkling chardonnay produced
in northeast Tasmania, to a lovely 2003 Parker Estate
Terra Rossa Cabernet Sauvignon from South Australia’s
Coonawarra region.
It’s nearly midnight by the time we head back to The
Observatory Hotel, which comes highly recommended due
to its ideal location in the historic Rocks District. Not only
is The Observatory close to all the city’s famous sites and
culinary attractions, it’s a foodie destination in and of itself,
offering Galileo, Sydney’s leading five-star hotel restaurant.
There’s also the stylish Martini Club, the ideal retreat for
sipping signature martinis and enjoying Rat Pack classics.

32 Virtuoso Insights
 Doing it
Savoring New
South Wales
GO
Qantas Airlines offers a number of non-stop
flights to Sydney from San Francisco and Los
Angeles, along with daily-direct service from New
York (JFK) via LA. In addition, a variety of cruise
lines feature itineraries that begin or end in Sydney,
presenting the perfect opportunity to visit this
exciting city. Your Virtuoso travel advisor can help
select the cruise that’s right for you.

SEE
Calling on its innumerable local connections,
EuroPanache works with your Virtuoso travel
advisor to create customized programs and unique
experiences perfectly tailored to your interests —
from culinary adventures in the Blue Mountains to
private winery tours in the Hunter Valley.

STAY SYDNEY
Located in Sydney’s historic Rocks District, The
Observatory Hotel, an Orient-Express Hotel, is
M i c h o a c a n T u r i sm o Ad
just a short stroll from the Sydney Harbour Bridge,
the iconic Opera House, and the vibrant restaurants
of King Street Wharf. The 100 individually decorated
guestrooms include 12 stylish suites. (Our favorite:
From top: The majestic Lilianfels Blue Mountains #313, a junior suite with a wraparound terrace.) The
Resort & Spa; and a real cliffhanger.
renowned Day Spa features a subterranean indoor
swimming pool lit by a fiber-optic “galaxy” of
Robert and I take full advantage of our time here. We descend
twinkling stars. In Galileo, Executive Chef Masahiko
the Giant Stairway — a series of 800-plus steps, many hewn out
Yomoda offers fine French dining with surprising
of the cliff — to the valley, then ride the world’s steepest railway
international influences. Virtuoso guests receive
back to the top. The following morning, we embark with local
a room upgrade on arrival, if available; breakfast
guide Tim Tranter on a 6:00 a.m. private eco tour to observe
daily; fresh strawberries upon arrival; and early
kangaroos in the wild. Kangaroos dine early in the morning, as
check-in and late checkout, if available. Contact your
do we — on fresh-out-of-the-oven pumpkin, honey, and orange
Virtuoso travel advisor for up-to-the-minute pricing.
juice scones served with steaming hot coffee from the back of
Tim’s 4X4.
Later, we indulge in the six-course tasting menu with
STAY THE BLUE MOUNTAINS
Set on a cliff top overlooking the breathtaking Blue
matching Australian wines at Darley’s, Lilianfels’ signature
Mountains, Lilianfels Blue Mountains Resort &
restaurant. It is the beginning of autumn in Australia and
Spa, an Orient-Express Hotel, draws outdoor lovers
Executive Chef Hugh Whitehouse has created a seasonal menu
and foodies alike. The historic retreat offers indoor
incorporating the best-of-the-best local produce, nuts, late-
and outdoor pools, a luxurious spa, and the award-
season berries, and ripe black figs. There’s wild barramundi
winning Darley’s Restaurant serving contemporary
on tonight’s degustation menu, served with Hawkesbury River
Australian cuisine. A more casual dining option, The
squid, baby leeks, and Jerusalem artichokes. There’s also quail
Grille, has earned the coveted reputation of serving
with seared sea scallops and barberries, and a delicate Northern
the best steaks in the Blue Mountains. The hotel
Rivers milk-fed veal with white asparagus and local walnuts.
concierge can arrange everything from gourmet
Tonight’s meal is the perfect finale to our culinary odyssey.
picnics to “Breakfast with the Kangaroos” eco tours.
Traveling via foot, 4X4, train, and seaplane, we’ve covered a lot
Virtuoso guests receive a room upgrade on arrival, if
of gourmet territory in the past four days. Now, just one last
available; Continental breakfast daily; welcome gift
question remains.
upon arrival; and early check-in and late checkout,
“What’s for dessert?”
if available. Contact your Virtuoso travel advisor for
up-to-the-minute pricing.
34 Virtuoso Insights