Saaj, Vastra and Shree Mastak Shrungaar

Introduction

Saaj, Vastra and Shrungaar play a very important part in daily seva.
Shrungaar and Vastra is one of the three pillars of Pushti Marg. Others being Raag and Bhog.
This presentation will cover the significance of Saaj, Vastra and Shrungaar is daily and Utsav
seva.
Various Vastra and Shrungaar are offered to Thakurji, with different Bhaav and Bhavna.
The entire Seva routine defined by Shri Mahaprabhuji and Shree Gusaiji is based on Shrimad
Bhagwat Mahapuran, which is why Shrungar are also based on different leelas done by
Shree Krishna in Saraswat Kalp.
Most of the interpretations and the Bhavs which we read in Pustaks have been explained by
Shree Gokulnathji and Shri Hariray Mahaprabhu.
Many Vastra and Shrungaar have multiple Bhaav, and methods would depend on the
different Guru Ghar.

Why Know This?

To give Sukh to Thakurji and make sure that Thakurji is not given Shram.
Although we are not able to include this in daily or home seva, when we go to do Darshan at
a Tirth Sthal or Haveli, we could identify with what Bhav, the Saaj, Vastra and Shrungaar has
been offered.
Helps us identify the Seva Kram designed by previous Vallabh Kul Balaks.

Saaj
Introduction

Saaj is the set of Pichwai, Chandarva, Sinhasan, Seedi and Khandpaat Vastra
The Saaj is changed according to the seasons and the Utsav.
The Saaj has been thought of, accordingly to the comfort and royalty of Shri Thakurji.

Bhaav of the Various Saaj

Chandarvo Shri Chandravalijis Chayaroop.

Pichwai Shri Swaminijis Chayaroop.
Sinhasan Shri Yashodajis Lap.
o Gadi Shri Swaminiji
o Middle Pillow (Pithika) Shri Chandravaliji
o Side Pillows Shri Lalitaji & Shri Vishakhaji
o Malmal White Spread Shri Swaminijis Prembhaav.

Saaj During Utsavs

On Utsavs like Janmashtami, Annakut, Mahaprabhujino Utsav, Gusaijino Utsav etc, Saaj is
prepared with special materials, such as Zari, Zardozi, Gold and Silver threads.
On some Utsavs, printed Pichwais depicting Vraj Leela are offered to Thakurji. Examples of

such Utsav are Sharad Poonam (Raas Pichwai), Gopashtmi (Pichwai with Cows) and
Daan Leela (Pichwai depicting Daan Leela).

Vastra
Introduction

During Shri Mahaprabhujis time, only Dhoti and Uparna were offered to Shri Thakurji.
Later, Shri Gusaijis expanded the wardrobe according to the medieval India.
These were mostly inspired by the Mughals as we know from history that Shri Gusaiji was
Birajmaan during the years of the Mughals.

Vastra for Laalan

In Pushti Marg, round frock Vastra are not offered to Laalan, but Odhani and Vaaga if
offered.
Vaaga is not offered from Akhshay Trutiya, to the day before Nav Vilas Prarambh. Though it
is offered on big Utsavs. If offered on the Utsav, it is not offered on the day after.

Vastra for Thadu Swaroop

Thada Swaroop is any swaroop which is standing.

These swaroops could be Shri Govardhannathji, Shri Dwarkadhishji, Shri Mathuranathji, Shri
Vitthalnathji, Shri Madanmohanji, Shri Gokulchandramaji, Shri Gokulnathji, Shri Kalyanraiji,
Shri Natwarlalji etc.
Various Vastra are offered according to the time of the year.

Thadu Vastra

Thadu Vastra is the Vastra which is offered on the Pithika of Thakurji.

Swaroops which have Pithika (Shri Govardhannathji, Shri
Dwarkadhishji, Shri Mathuranathji, Shri Kalyanraiji.)
It is not offered between Ashadh Sud 7 to Ashadh Sud 3. It is not
offered on Ashadh 7, 10 and 12.

Chaakdaar

This is Chakdaar.
It means the Vastra with Four corners.
It is offered with Suthan, Bandi and sometimes Patuka.
Offered frequently throughout the year, but not in
Ushnakaal or Varshakaal.
Offered on most of the big Utsavs.

Khullebandh

This is Khullebandh.
It is like an overcoat.
It could be offered with Kachni, Suthan, Dhoti or
Mallkaach.
Mostly made of Chaapa material.
Offered during the begining of Chaitra and during
Nav Vilas.

Gherdaar

This is Gherdaar.
It means the Vastra with one single Gher.
It is offered with Suthan, Bandi and sometimes Patuka.
Offered mostly between Dashera and Vasantkaal.
Offered on most of the Ghata Darshan.

Dhoti Uparna

This is Dhoti Uparna.

It is one of the traditional clothes of historic India.
It is offered mostly in Ushnakaal and Varshakaal.

Kaachni

Kaachni is the Vastra which has a Gher. This shows that

when more than one feathers formed together forms a
Gher. Similarly more than one Bhaktas together get
together to fulfil the manorath of Shri Thakurji. Thakurji
wears the Kaachni with the representation of the
several Vraj Bhaktos Bhaav.
It is offered with Suthan and Pitambar.
Bandi is offered when it is cold.
Mukut is offered with Kaachni.

Pichoda

This is Pichoda.
There are various types of Pichoda.
It is offered mostly in Ushnakaal and
Varshakaal.

This is Paradni.
It is in the shape of shorts.
It is offered alone.
Offered frequently in Ushnakaal.

Paradni

Mallkaach
This is Mallkaach.
Mallkaach is also known as the wrestlers clothes.
It is offered mostly in Ushnakaal and Varshakaal.

Aadbandh

This is Aadbandh.
Mostly offered in Magala and Shayan Darshan.
It is offered mostly in Ushnakaal.

Suthan Patuka

This is Suthan Patuka.

Suthan could also be reffered as a
trouser or Pyjama.
It is either offered with Chakdaar or
Gherdaar in Sheetkaal.
In Ushnakaal and Varshakaal, it could be
offered alone as well.

Bandi

This is Bandi.
Bandi is the top.
It could also be reffered as Choli or Kothavastra.
It is offered when Kachni, Gherdaar or Chaakdaar is offered.
It is never offered alone.

Vastra According to the Seasons

Akshay Trutiya to Kasumba Chatth Light Colours, Without Borders, Kesar/Chandan printed,
Malmal, Net
From Kasumba Chath Dark Coloured Malmal (Red, Blue, Purple etc,) with borders
From Hindola Colourful, Chundadi, Malmal, Leheriya, with borders
Navaratri to Sharad Poornima Chaapa
Aaso Vad Saatam to Prabodhini Jari
After Prabodhini Jari, Saatin, Kinkhaab
Posh Amaas Day before Vasant Panchami Jari
Vasant Panchami to Dolotsav Vasanti (cloth with gulaal dots,) White Sootrau, Jaamdaani
Dwitiya Paat + 5 days Jari
Fagun Vad 7 Chaitra Sud 2 Chaapa

Treej to Saatam Chundadi

Afterwhich Leheriya and Malmal

Various Materials and Designs in Thakurjis Vastra

Shrungaar
Shrungaar Introduced by Shri Vallabh and Shri Vitthal

Shree Mahaprabhuji offered only 2 types of Shrungars to Shree Prabhu: Mukut and Paag.
Shree Gusaiji expanded the Shrungars to many i.e. Kulhe, Goti Kulhe, Paga, Tipara, Turra,
Fenta, Dumala etc.

Various Shrungaar offered on Mukharvind

Alkankaar

Alankaar/Nain offered to Thakurji are always facing downwards in

Pushti Marg, to show Shri Thakurji is looking towards his feet.
This is because during Govardhan Leela, Thakurji promised Vrajvasis
to protect them in all good and bad, if they come under Thakurjis
refuge. Hence Vrajvasis and Vaishnavs are at the Shri Charanarvind of
Shri Thakurji.
Thakurji has promised to always protect those who reside in his feet,
which is why the downwards eyes represent Thakurji always looking
at Vaishnavs.

Karnafool

Karnafool are offered on the lower part of Shri Thakurjis ear.

Sometimes, four Karnafools could be offered; two on the upper part
of Thakurjis ear, and two on the lower.
Mostly offered on a daily basis, when Fenta, Paag or Topi are offered.
Rarely offered on Utsavs. Offered on Vasant Panchami and Dolotsav.

Kundal

There are three types of Kundals which are offered. Makarakrut shape of a crocodile (left),
Mayurakrut - shape of a peacock (centre) and Matsyakrut shape of a fish (right.)
Kundals are mostly offered on big Utsavs. These are mostly offered when Mukut, Tipara,
Sehra, Kirit Mukut, Kulhe and Dumala are offered.
When offered the tail faces upwards.
The first is Mayurakruta Kundal. This is with the Bhaav that Shri Thakorji adorns this to fulfil
the Manorath of Parkiya Bhakto. Parkiya Bhakto means belonging to other or anothers.
The second is Makarakruta Kundal. This is to fulfil the Manorath of Swakiya Bhakto. The
other Bhaav is that Shri Thakorji is Aloukik Kamdev (Hindu God of Love,) and wears them to
notify every one of that.
The third is Matsyakruta Kundal. This is with the Bhaav that Shri Swaminiji wins over him,
and keeps the Kundal in her Charan Chinh, which is why Shri Swaminiji has a Matsya as her
Charan Chinh, and is the reason why Thakorji wears the Matysakruta Kundal. The Bhaav is
that Shri Swaminji won Shri Thakorji with her love filled eyes, or even known as Kataksh.
She then took the Kundal and offered is to her Charan.

Tilak and Alkavali

Tilak is the Bhaav of Shri Swaminijis Charankrut.

There are different types of Tilaks which are
explained by Shri Harirayji.
Kesri Tilak Shri Swaminijis Bhaav
Kanku Tilak Virahtaap Nivaaranarth To
reduce the agony of the separation.
Kasturi Tilak Shri Yamunajis Bhaav
Ratnajatid Tilak Shrutiroopa Mukhya
Chandravalijis Bhaav
Gorachan Tilak 16000 Agnikumarikas Bhaav

Nakvesar

Nakvesar is the nose ornament.

The Bhaav behind this is that when Shri Thakorji does Shrungaar in the
Nikunj, Shri Thakorji adorns some of Shri Swaminijis Shrungaar. This is
when with Shri Swaminijis request Shri Thakorji wears the favourite Moti
Nakvesar of Shri Swaminji.
The other Bhaav of the Nakvesar is that a Parrot Shuk is seated on Shri
Thakurjis nose.

Chibuk

Chibuk is a white diamond, which is offered between the lower lip and chin, which is known
as Hadpachi.
To have the moons characteristics within him, Shri Thakorji adores the Chibuuk.
It has the Bhaav of Shri Chandravaliji, and as the colour of Shri Chandravali is white, the
colour of the Chibuk is white.

Shree Mastak Shrungaar General

In Pushti Marg the Shrungaar of Shree Mastak is always offered at an angle of about 300 or
400 on the right side of Shree Thakurji.
On the left side, Sheeshfool and/or Katra is offered.
On the right side, two larh (lines) of moti are offered under the Shrungar, whilst on the left
side, only one larh of moti is offered.

Various Shree Mastak Shrungaar

Paag

Paag is offered with the Bhaav of Shri Yamunaji.

There are various types of Paag
Saadi Only Plain Material
Chajjedaar Plain Material with Golden or Silver Lace
Gol Round Shaped
Khidki Made of Two different coloured Plain Materials (Offered mostly during days
of Khel)
Cheera Made of only Zari Lace. (Offered mostly between Dashera and Devpodhi
Ekadashi)

Kulhe

Kulhe is offered with Shri Chandravalijis Bhaav.

As Shri Gusaiji is Chandravalijis Swaroop, Kulhe also has the Bhaav of Shri Gusaiji.
Shri Gusaiji taught us the Shrungaar for Utsavs and Kulhe is offered on Utsavs. (Jayantis,
Patotsav, etc)
Kulhe also has the Bhaav of Baal Leela, which is why it is offered on Jayantis.
Because of Baal Bhaav, Kulhe is not offered during the days of Khel (Vasant Panchami Dol
Utsav,) as Khel is done with the Bhaav of Kishor Leela.
During Ushnakaal or Varshakaal, when Kulhe is offered Pichoda is offered.
On Vaman Jayanti and Gopinathjis Utsav, Dhoti Uparna are offered.
During Sheetkaal, when Kulhe is offered, SuthanBandiChakdaar is offered.

Mukut

The Bhaav behind the Mukut is the Raas Leela.

It has the Bhaav of the four Yuthadipati (the four Swaminijis) and
Vrajanganas who accompanied Shri Thakurji in Raas.
It is also the Sarvopari Shrungar which is why it also has the Bhaav of
Shri Swaminiji.
As Shri Mahaprabhuji is the Swaroop of Shri Swaminiji, he himself
created a Mukut of peapock feathers and offered it to Shri Thakurji.
It is mostly offered with Suthan-Kaachni-Bandi-Peetamber.
It is offered on top of a Paag.

Mukut and Kaachni Yamunajis Shrungaar

Mukut and Kachni are also known as Shri Yamunajis Shrungar.

It is said that when Yamunaji resides in her own Kunj, she wears Chaniya and Choli, but when
in Shri Thakurjis Kunj she wears Mukut and Kachni. There are two prasangs related to this.
Prasang 1: When Shri Thakurji and Shri Swaminiji were doing Maan Leela, Shri Thakurji easily
persuaded Shri Swaminiji, but Shri Swaminiji was not able to persuade Shri Thakurji. All
Sakhis tried their best to persuade Shri Thakurji, but their attempts went futile. This is when
Shri Swaminiji asked Shri Yamunaji to wear Shri Thakurjis Mukut and Kachni, so she would
look like Shri Thakurji as both are Shyaam Swaroop. When Shru Yamunaji went up to Shri
Thakurji, Shri Thakurji got pleased at looking at Shri Yamunaji and asked her to always wear
Mukut Kachni when coming to his Kunj.
Prasang 2: When Shri Thakurji was leaving Mathura and leaving for Dwarka, he realised the
Virah the Gopis would have to bear. This is when Shri Thakurji gave his Mukut and Kachni
to Shri Yamunaji and told her to wear it. This is so that when the Gopis and Shri Swaminiji
goes to Shri Yamunaji for bathing or filling water, when they do the darshan of Shri
Yamunaji, they see the Swaroop of Shri Thakurji and their Virah decreases.
When Vaishnavs asked Shree Gokulnathji on how does Shree Yamunajis Adhyatmik
swaroop looks like, he sketched an image, which is the image we see today in paintings.

Tiparo

The Bhaav behind the Tiparo is the Gau Charan Leela.

It is also offered with the Bhaav of doing the Mardan of the Maan of Taamsi Bhakt.
It is the Shrungaar with three pointed corners.
During Ushnakaal or Varshakaal, when tiparo is offered, Mallkaach or Pichoda is offered.
During Sheetkaal, when Tiparo is offered, Suthan Bandi Chakdaar is offered.
Offered on top of Paag.

Sehero
The Bhaav behind the Sehero is the Vivah Khel Leela.
It is with the Bhav of Shri Kumarika as they performed Katyayani Vrat to
attain Shri Thakurji, and offered Sehero to Shri Thakurji.
It is offered during Vivah Khel Manoraths.
In Ushnakaal or Varshakaal, when Sehero is offered, Pichoda or Dhoti
Uparna is offered.
In Sheetkaal, when Sehero is offered, SuthanBandiChakdaar/Gherdaar
is offered.
Offered mostly on top of Dumalo.
When Sehero is offered, Choti comes on the right side, instead of the left
side.

Kirit

It is one sort of a crown.

It comes particularly on Dwitiya Patotsav.
During Ushnakaal or Varshakaal, when Kirit is offered, Pichoda or Dhoti
Uparna is offered.
During Sheetkaal, when Kirit is offered, SuthanBandiChakdaar is
offered.

Various Topis and Paags

Topi The Bhaav of Shree Yashodaji

Gwaal Paag The Bhaavna of Gwaal Baal
Dumalo The Bhaav of Raajsi Bhakt
Fenta The Bhaav of Saatvik Bhakt

Chandrikas

Chandrikas are Shrungaar added to Paags or Kulhe:

Saadi Chandrika Only one peacock motif. Offered on Paag
Tran, Panch, Saat, Navni Jod Selection of mofits of these numbers. Offered with Kulhe on
Utsavs.
Chamakni Chandrika Chandrika made of a different material (gold, silver, sequins, beads,
etc.)
Gol/Soorajmukhi Chandrika Chandrika with a round shape.

Gokarna

Represents the ears of a cow. Gou means cow and Karn means
ears.
Offered during Govardhan Pooja, Annakut, Akshay Navmi and
when Chappan Bhog is offered to Thakorji.
Offered with Kulhe.

Katra

Katra is offered on the various Paags.

Left Katra is with the Bhaav of Shri Swaminiji.
Right Katra is with the Bhaav of Shri Chandravaliji.
Naagfeni Katra is Katra which is the shape of a
snakes hood. (Right)
Made of various materials. Ei. Morshikha, Moti,
Suvarva, Resham.

Choti

Choti is offered on special occasions.

Generally of the Left side of Shri Thakurji, but when Sehera is
offered, the Choti is offered on the right side of Shri Thakurji.
It is said that in Saraswat Kalp, Shri Thakurji never made his Choti
on the days of Daan Leela, with the fear of Gopis pulling his
Choti.

Ghero/Kaamni Jod

Offered with Kulhe or Kirit Mukut.

Utsavs when Ghero is offered is when Chappan Bhog is offered
to Thakorji, Samvatsar and Yamunajis Utsav.

Ready Made Shree Mastak Shrungar

Now in the market, we get ready made Shree Mastak Shrungaar.

These are effortless and are just ready to be offered.
Though these may not always be appropriate. An example is the third image below, It shows
Ghero/Kaamni Jod with Paag, but Ghero or Kaamni Jod is always offered with Kulhe or Kirit,
according to Seva Bhaavna.

Shrungaar according to the Seasons

Sheetkaal (Winter)

All kind of Shrungaar (Heera, Manek, Panna, Piroja, Neelam, Gold,

Meenakaari, Moti, Milma, Jadau)
Gold and Meenakaari
Sukhad, Chheep, Moti

Vasant
Ushnakaal (Summer)

On big Utsavs, all kind of Shrungaar are offered

Mukut is not offered during very cold and very hot conditions