PERFUMES

Shashwat Agarwal 13BCH0008

Shreya Sengupta 13BCH0012
Madhura Kasture 13BCH0050
Agnel Pious 13BCH0068
Himanshu Narang 14BCH0046
SCALE

Chemical Product Design

Review 1

Abstract
The product that has been chosen is Perfumes. Perfumes today are a major consumer product available
widely across the world .Despite of the presence of a wide variety of perfumes in the current market,
the end consumer is never satisfied by the products inefficiency in providing all the properties in a
single perfume. Until the last century, oil-based perfumes were made . However now perfumes with
major chemical liquid compositions are available in the market. They are usually expensive and not
many industries are present in the country currently. Although major advancements have been made in
this industry, only a few companies have actually adopted them. This could be due to multiple reasons
such as cost of processing or poor response from the consumer market .By looking into the customers
needs and desires ,we would provide chemical engineering solutions to it and come up with a
satisfactory product for the consumer

CONTENTS

ABSTRACT... .2
BRIEF INTRODUCTION 4
PROBLEMS IDENTIFIED......3
CAUSES OF PROBLEMS. ... 3
BASICS OF PERFUME

.6

TYPES OF PERFUMES-CLASSIFICATION.6
MANUFACTURING PROCESSES...7
REFERENCES................9

PERFUMES
Perfumes are a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds, fixatives and solvents used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces "a pleasant scent". In our current
world, there is a need for proper presentation and grooming. Thus, the market is set to benefit from the
growing trend towards consumer urbanization, higher spending propensity and personal appearance
and grooming. The global perfume market has been forecast to reach a value of approximately US$45.6
billion by 2018.

Problems Identified
After conducting a survey, amongst various age groups of our society, the following problems
have been identified.

Short fragrance life after use

Perfume stains on clothes (especially the cheaper brands manufacturing coloured perfumes)
Irritation to the skinImproper(faulty) dispensing mechanism
Decay of woolen fabric after repeated perfume use
Poor lifetime of the perfume
Problems in handling glass bottles Nozzles that stop working

After considering these problems, the most prominent of all the above are:
Short fragrance life and poor lifetime of the perfume
Irritation to the skin
Perfume stains and decay of woolen fabric.

Causes Of Problems
Staining of perfumes:

Perfumes can stain on clothing or fabric especially when it is used repeatedly. Perfume
stains are usually oil based and it is the oil that causes the staining. Higher amount of oil in the perfume
will lead to stains. However some perfumes have dyes in them and that can cause stain too. For example
lush lust is dyed red and that color stain the clothing and can even penetrate the clothing.

Irritation due to perfumes:

Evidence in peer-reviewed journals shows that some fragrances can cause asthmatic reactions
in some individuals, especially those with severe or atopic asthma. Many fragrance ingredients can also
cause headaches, allergic skin reactions or nausea.In some cases, an excessive use of perfumes may
cause allergic reactions of the skin.
For instance, acetophenone, ethyl acetate and acetone while present in many perfumes, are
also known or potential respiratory allergens. Nevertheless, this may be misleading, since the harm
presented by many of these chemicals (either natural or synthetic) is dependent on environmental
conditions and their concentrations in a perfume. For instance, linalool, which is listed as an irritant,
causes skin irritation when it degrades to peroxides, however the use of antioxidants in perfumes or
reduction in concentrations can prevent this. As well, the furanocoumarin present in natural extracts of
grapefruit or celery can cause severe allergic reactions and increase sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation.
Some research on natural aromatics have shown that many contain compounds that cause skin
irritation. However some studies, such as IFRA's research claim that opoponax is too dangerous to be
used in perfumery, still lack scientific consensus. It is also true that sometimes inhalation alone can
cause skin irritation.
Perfume intolerance is a condition wherein people exhibit sensitivity or allergic reactions to
ingredients in perfume. The most common allergic reactions to perfume or fragrances added to
products is contact dermatitis, though other symptoms may occur, including allergic conjunctivitis.
A number of national and international surveys have identified balsam of Peru, often used in
perfumes, as being in the "top five" allergens most commonly causing patch test reactions in people
referred to dermatology clinics. A study in 2001 found that 3.8% of the general population patch tested
was allergic to it. Many perfumes contain components identical to balsam of Peru.
Balsam of Peru is used as a marker for perfume allergy. Its presence in a cosmetic is denoted by
the INCI term Myroxylon pereirae. Balsam of Peru has been banned by the International Fragrance
Association since 1982 from use as a fragrance compound, but may be present as an extract or distillate
in other products, where mandatory labeling is not required for usage of 0.4% or less.

Safety Regulation
The perfume industry in the US is not directly regulated by the FDA, instead the FDA
controls the safety of perfumes through their ingredients and requires that they be tested to the extent
that they are generally recognized as safe (GRAS). Due to the need for protection of trade secrets,
companies rarely give the full listing of ingredients regardless of their effects on health. In Europe, as
from 11 March 2005, the mandatory listing of a set of 26 recognized fragrance allergens was
enforced.[63] The requirement to list these materials is dependent on the intended use of the final
product. The limits above which the allergens are required to be declared are 0.001% for products
intended to remain on the skin, and 0.01% for those intended to be rinsed off. This has resulted in many
old perfumes like chypres and fougreclasses, which require the use of oak moss extract, being
reformulated.

Decay and preservation of perfumes

Fragrance compounds in perfumes will degrade or break down if improperly stored in the
presence of: Heat, Light, Oxygen, Extraneous organic materials. Proper preservation of perfumes
involves keeping them away from sources of heat and storing them where they will not be exposed to
light. An opened bottle will keep its aroma intact for several years, as long as it is well stored. However
the presence of oxygen in the head space of the bottle and environmental factors will in the long run
alter the smell of the fragrance.
Perfumes are best preserved when kept in light-tight aluminium bottles or in their original
packaging when not in use, and refrigerated to relatively low temperatures: between 37 C (3745 F).
Although it is difficult to completely remove oxygen from the headspace of a stored flask of fragrance,
opting for spray dispensers instead of rollers and "open" bottles will minimize oxygen exposure. Sprays
also have the advantage of isolating fragrance inside a bottle and preventing it from mixing with dust,
skin, and detritus, which would degrade and alter the quality of a perfume.
There exist several archives and museums devoted to the preservation of historical perfumes,
namely the Osmothque, which stocks over 3,000 perfumes from the past two millennia in their original
formulations. All scents in their collection are preserved in non-actinic glass flasks flushed with argon gas,
stored in thermally insulated compartments maintained at 12 C (53.6 F) in a large vault.

Basics of Perfume
The key ingredients as well as the procedures adopted for making perfumes are kept as secret
always. All the matters are kept as a secret and the methodology as well as the components is not
confessed to the consumers as well as the retailers. Understanding the ingredients of perfumes is not an
easy task. This is mainly because they are made from various flower and plant extracts. Classification of
perfumes could be easily done and depends on the families and the concentration. Essential oils are
more common people which are same as that of fragrant extracts. There are various factors which
enable in getting the specific fragrant extract such as purity, foundation source and even the technique
involved.
Fragrances are created with a blend of three different kinds of oils. The base note is combined
with strong perfume oils to maintain for longer time and this is considered as the first type. Different
smells such as of ferns, vanilla and sandalwood are noted as the base smells. The second type does not
have much influence on the smell like the first note which is known as the middle note. But even then it
has a major influence on the fragrance. Usually the middle note includes ylang ylang and lemongrass
essences. First the middle note is added to the mixture and it is only after that the top note is added.
The top notes include smells of rose, lime, orchid, lemon and lavender. These three notes are
considered very essential in the preparation procedure of perfumes.
Perfume oils are often diluted with a solvent, though this is not always the case, and its
necessity is disputed. By far the most common solvent for perfume oil dilution is an alcohol solution
typically a mixture of ethanol and water or a rectified spirit. Perfume oil can also be diluted by means of
neutral-smelling oils such as fractionated coconut oil, or liquid waxes such as jojoba oil.
Cologne fragrance is released rapidly, lasting around 2 hours. Eau de toilette lasts from 2 to 4
hours, while perfume may last up to six hours.

Types of Perfumes.
Classification based on composition. Perfume types reflect the concentration of aromatic
compounds in a solvent, which in fine fragrance is typically ethanol or a mix of water and ethanol.
Various sources differ considerably in the definitions of perfume types. The intensity and longevity of a
perfume is based on the concentration, intensity and longevity of the aromatic compounds, or perfume
oils, used. As the percentage of aromatic compounds increases, so does the intensity and longevity of
the scent. Specific terms are used to describe a fragrance's approximate concentration by the percent of
perfume oil in the volume of the final product. The most widespread terms are:

Parfum or extrait, in English known as perfume extract, pure perfume, or simply perfume:
1540% (IFRA: typical ~20%) aromatic compounds
Esprit de Parfum (ESdP): 1530% aromatic compounds, a seldom used strength
concentration in between EdP and perfume
Eau de Parfum (EdP), Parfum de Toilette (PdT): 1020% (typical ~15%) aromatic compounds,
sometimes listed as "eau de perfume" or "millsime"; Parfum de Toilette is a less common
term, most popular in the 1980s, that is generally analogous to Eau de Parfum
Eau de Toilette (EdT): 515% (typical ~10%) aromatic compounds
Eau de Cologne (EdC), often simply called cologne: 38% (typical ~5%) aromatic compounds;
see below for more information on the confusing nature of the term "cologne"
In addition to these widely seen concentrations, companies have marketed a variety of
perfumed products under the name of "splashes," "mists," "veils" and other imprecise terms. Generally
these products contain 3% or less aromatic compounds
With the basis of this we can now identify the main ingredients affecting the factors that are
concerned to us.

Manufacturing Techniques
Collection
Before the manufacturing process begins, the initial ingredients must be brought to the
manufacturing center. Plant substances are harvested from around the world, often hand-picked for
their fragrance. Animal products are obtained by extracting the fatty substances directly from the
animal. Aromatic chemicals used in synthetic perfumes are created in the laboratory by perfume
chemists.
Extraction
Oils are extracted from plant substances by several methods: steam distillation, solvent extraction,
enfleurage, maceration, and expression.
In steam distillation, steam is passed through plant material held in a still, whereby the essential
oil turns to gas. This gas is then passed through tubes, cooled, and liquified. Oils can also be extracted by
boiling plant substances like flower petals in water instead of steaming them.
Under solvent extraction, flowers are put into large rotating tanks or drums and benzene or
petroleum ether is poured over the flowers, extracting the essential oils. The flower parts dissolve in the
solvents and leave a waxy material that contains the oil, which is then placed in ethyl alcohol. The oil

dissolves in the alcohol and rises. Heat is used to evaporate the alcohol, which once fully burned off,
leaves a higher concentration of the perfume oil on the bottom.
During enfleurage, flowers are spread on glass sheets coated with grease. The glass sheets are
placed between wooden frames in tiers. Then the flowers are removed by hand and changed until the
grease has absorbed their fragrance.
Maceration is similar to enfleurage except that warmed fats are used to soak up the flower
smell. As in solvent extraction, the grease and fats are dissolved in alcohol to obtain the essential oils.
Expression is the oldest and least complex method of extraction. By this process, now used in
obtaining citrus oils from the rind, the fruit or plant is manually or mechanically pressed until all the oil is
squeezed out.

Blending
Once the perfume oils are collected, they are ready to be blended together according to a
formula determined by a master in the field, known as a "nose." It may take as many as 800 different
ingredients and several years to develop the special formula for a scent.
After the scent has been created, it is mixed with alcohol. The amount of alcohol in a scent can
vary greatly. Most full perfumes are made of about 10-20% perfume oils dissolved in alcohol and a trace
of water. Colognes contain approximately 3-5% oil diluted in 80-90% alcohol, with water making up
about 10%. Toilet water has the least amount2% oil in 60-80% alcohol and 20% water.

Aging

Fine perfume is often aged for several months or even years after it is blended. Following this, a
"nose" will once again test the perfume to ensure that the correct scent has been achieved. Each
essential oil and perfume has three notes: "Notes de tete," or top notes, "notes de coeur," central or
heart notes, and "notes de fond," base notes. Top notes have tangy or citrus-like smells; central notes
(aromatic flowers like rose and jasmine) provide body, and base notes (woody fragrances) provide an
enduring fragrance. More "notes," of various smells, may be further blended.

References
https://www.perfume.com/article-a-guide-to-perfume-types
http://www.thefragranceshop.co.uk/fragrance-guide.aspx
http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews

http://science.howstuffworks.com/perfume.htm/

REVIEW II
As a part of our next review we will present number of solutions to the problems identified . We
will also give a basic idea of how our product will look ( including chemistry ).Finally we will give an
economic analysis to the same .

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