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acticire ®

3 Waxes, 3 Benefits, 1 Ingredient

acticire ® 3 Waxes, 3 Benefits, 1 Ingredient
acticire ® 3 Waxes, 3 Benefits, 1 Ingredient
acticire ® 3 Waxes, 3 Benefits, 1 Ingredient
acticire ® 3 Waxes, 3 Benefits, 1 Ingredient
acticire ® 3 Waxes, 3 Benefits, 1 Ingredient
acticire ® 3 Waxes, 3 Benefits, 1 Ingredient

The 3 In 1 excIpIenT: sensorIal, compaTIBIlIzIng & acTIve

gattefossé presents a new functional and moisturizing ingredient, designed to transform your natural formulations:

acTIcIre ®

of 100% plant origin, acticire ® is an active texture agent based on a complex of Jojoba, mimosa and sunflower waxes.

acticire ® , through its unique complex, combines the sensorial and functional advantages of liquid emollients, butters and waxes:

a soft, smooth butter, it stabilizes and improves the sensoriality of your natural formulations

a specific complex of waxes, it allows the realization of original formulations and textures

truly active texture agent, it brings durable moisturization and comfort to the skin. its efficacy has been clinically demonstrated.

to the skin. its efficacy has been clinically demonstrated. acTIcIre ® brings comfort and active moisturization.

acTIcIre ® brings comfort and active moisturization.

acTIcIre ® brings comfort and active moisturization. Before after Microrelief pictures: Evaluation of skin

Before

® brings comfort and active moisturization. Before after Microrelief pictures: Evaluation of skin microrelief

after

® brings comfort and active moisturization. Before after Microrelief pictures: Evaluation of skin microrelief

Microrelief pictures: Evaluation of skin microrelief improvement.

InnovaTIve complex

acticire ® , the new Gattefossé innovation comes from the transesterification of three vegetable waxes: sunflower, Jojoba and mimosa.

Jojoba wax consists essentially of long chain monoesters (C38 – C46) of unsaturated fatty acids

Jojoba wax consists essentially of long chain monoesters (C38 – C46) of unsaturated fatty acids and alcohols. It is unique amongst waxes because of its liquid nature.

It contributes spread and softness to cosmetic formulations.

+

Sunflower wax is mainly composed of monoesters of fatty acids and alcohols containing 40 to

Sunflower wax is mainly composed of monoesters of fatty acids and alcohols containing 40 to 56 carbon atoms.

It is a hard wax, of high melting point and low color. It presents excellent thermal stability.

+

Mimosa wax has a more complex composition, containing free phytosterols, aliphatic monoesters (C38 to C48)

Mimosa wax has a more complex composition, containing free phytosterols, aliphatic monoesters (C38 to C48) but also a proportion of inert hydrocarbon chains.

These contribute to the protecting nature of the wax and the film forming properties. Mimosa wax presents a sweet, pleasant odor, well known to perfumers.

these waxes, with the exception of Jojoba, demonstrate poor compatibility with cosmetic emulsions and low sensoriality due to their crystallization behaviour and hardness.

Gattefossé oleochemists have developed and optimized a method to transform vegetable waxes, bringing them both improved sensoriality and compatibility: a process called transesterification.

TransesTerIfIcaTIon of The Waxes

acticire ® is a blend of vegetable waxes reacted together under controlled conditions to create new mixed esters with possibly a saturated and an unsaturated chain. this blend has physical properties that can be considered intermediate between a liquid and a solid, but different to that of a simple blend of the solid and the liquid wax.

Polyglycerin, a hydrophilic and highly moisturizing molecule, is involved to create these new products.

molecule, is involved to create these new products. Blend of Sunflower, Jojoba, Mimosa waxes in apricot

Blend of Sunflower, Jojoba, Mimosa waxes in apricot kernel oil (20%)

Sunflower, Jojoba, Mimosa waxes in apricot kernel oil (20%) acticire ® in apricot kernel oil (20%)

acticire ® in apricot kernel oil (20%)

The crystallization of acTIcIre ® is much finer than in the case of the raw waxes (see photos above):

the smaller crystals are more homogeneous and are more compatible with emulsions, whereas the large crystals can disturb the water/oil interface.

a BreakThrough In sTaBIlITy and compaTIBIlITy

acticire ® plays an important role in helping compatibilize the oil and water phases of an emulsion.

acticire ® improves the dispersion of water within an oil phase. this latter characteristic is particularly interesting for the introduction of water to traditionally anhydrous and texturing formulations such as lip balms, massage balms and even lipsticks.

acticire ® , at only 5% in a formulation, allows the addition of 15% of water to form a texture that resembles an anhydrous balm, only more buttery, with a fresh application and a visible impression of moisturization.

contrary to lanolin, these balms demonstrate excellent heat stability.

   

anhydrous balm 5% acTIcIre ®

anhydrous-like

anhydrous-like balm 5% acTIcIre ® 15% water

formula

anhydrous

balm

5% lanolin

balm

5% lanolin

15% water

Heat stability 40°c - 3 months

StaBLe

StaBLe

unsTaBle

sTaBle

in this type of oil predominant formula, acticire ® can be used to:

Facilitate the addition of hydrosoluble actives to traditionally anhydrous formulas without deterioration of the heat stability

create innovative textures

Improve the moisturizing properties.

In oil in water emulsions, acticire ® helps emulsification. it can be used as a substitute of some low HLB coemulsifiers, creating interesting new textures with high softness and pleasant afterfeel.

it can furthermore allow reduction of the level of primary emulsifier.acticire ® is particularly compatible with natural, non PeG emulsifiers, including sugar esters, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, or glyceryl stearate citrate.

Improved sensorIalITy

Natural textures of tomorrow

natural formulations, containing a majority of vegetable oils, frequently present a rich feel during application yet a dry afterfeel within several minutes, giving an impression of lack of moisturization and comfort. this is principally due to the absence of a protecting film on the surface of the skin.

vegetable waxes can protect the skin however, in their native form, they are difficult to formulate and often recrystallize in the formulations. they also present a rough afterfeel on the skin.

in acticire ® , the crystals, smaller and rounder, form a smoother film leading to a softer touch (schema below).

Rough skin feel

Rough skin feel Formulation containing vegetable waxes

Formulation containing vegetable waxes

Sensorial demonstration

view of the crystals on the skin

Smooth skin feel

Smooth skin feel Formulation containing acticire ®

Formulation containing acticire ®

it has been demonstrated, in a number of all-natural cosmetic emulsions, that acticire ® improves application and afterfeel.

comparative sensorial profile of 2 creams containing lanolin, or acTIcIre ® , at 5%

Thickness

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
0

Soft afterfeel after 5 minutes

Spreadability

Soft afterfeel after 1 minute

Softness

Formula with ACTICIRE ®

Formula with lanolin

Film residue

in comparison to lanolin, a reference in moisturization efficacy, acticire ® clearly shows an advantage toward spreading and softness on the skin, the soft afterfeel increasing with time.

The long lasting comfort sensation created by acticire ® comes from the perceptible yet light film on the skin. this is particularly suitable for those skins that want moisturization and nutrition without any feeling of heaviness.

creaTIon of acTIve TexTures

acticire ® is capable of absorbing up to 6 times its own weight in water. the swelling forms a soufflé-like structure that presents an elastic, cushion soft feel. applied to the skin, acTIcIre ® forms a soft, smooth film that protects the skin against dehydration. a clinical study was carried out during 4 weeks on 25 volunteers with dry skin, aged 28 to 68. applied twice daily, two formulations were compared, one containing 5% acticire ® , the other 5% lanolin.

Trans Epidermal Water Loss

teWL represents the passive diffusion of water through the horny layer. this parameter is directly correlated to the skin barrier function. a decrease of teWL indicates a good protective effect of a formulation. the results, obtained on 25 volunteers, demonstrate that acticire ® offers a 2 fold improvement of the water retention ability of the skin, compared to the non treated control area.

Control lanolin ACTICIRE® 0 -2 -4 -6 -8 -10 -12 -14 -16 Corneometry corneometric measurement
Control
lanolin
ACTICIRE®
0
-2
-4
-6
-8
-10
-12
-14
-16
Corneometry
corneometric measurement is a genuine value
of
the skin’s free water content. On the test
25
area, the higher the electrical capacitance,
the more moisturized the stratum corneum.
20
the entire panel showed a very high moisturizing
efficacy after treatment with acticire ® .
the positive reference containing lanolin
used at 5% did not offer a better hydration
performance.
15
10
5
0
Control
lanolin
ACTICIRE®
Moisturizing effect (%)
TEWL reduction (%)

Skin microrelief

the surface, known as “skin microrelief”, is

a direct indicator of the level of the skin’s moisturization.

With age, or in dry skin, the microrelief becomes uneven and disorganized. an increase in the skin microrelief, which translates an even, organized network, brings about improved skin stretching and firmness.

as depicted in the diagram, the quality of the

skin surface of the 25 volunteers is much better after acticire ® application.

10 8 6 4 2 0 -2 -4 -6 -8 -10 Control lanolin ACTICIRE® Surface
10
8
6
4
2
0
-2
-4
-6
-8
-10
Control
lanolin
ACTICIRE®
Surface aspect quality
improvement (%)

acTIcIre ® BrIngs Back a mIcrorelIef of a younger skIn!

Microrelief pictures clearly show the efficacy of acticire ® on the surface aspect of the skin: visibly better organization and surface unaltered by scales.

D

D

0

28

control

surface unaltered by scales . D D 0 28 c o n t r o l
surface unaltered by scales . D D 0 28 c o n t r o l

D 28 : -9.1%

lanolin

c o n t r o l D 2 8 : -9.1% l a n o
c o n t r o l D 2 8 : -9.1% l a n o

D 28 : 0%

acTIcIre ®

: -9.1% l a n o l i n D 2 8 : 0% acTIcIre ®
: -9.1% l a n o l i n D 2 8 : 0% acTIcIre ®

D 28 : +10%

Volunteer #28: Microrelief pictures – Evaluation of skin microrelief improvement by a dermatologist.

the dry skin surface network of the inner forearm of the same panelist appeared very different depending on the emulsion applied.

compared to a non treated control area and to a lanolin treated area, the acTIcIre ® treated area (orange rectangle) showed a better organization.

all the furrows of this picture are very well orientated; their uniformity is visible without any remaining scales.

acTIvely supporTIng your claIms

two formulations, one containing 5% deodorized lanolin and the other 5% acticire ® were tested on a panel of 16 women, over a period of 7 days.

the evaluation of each cream used twice daily, morning and evening, is represented in the figure below.

Lanolin

ACTICIRE®

The cream spreads easily

100% 90% 80% 70% 60% 50%
100%
90%
80%
70%
60%
50%

Product is pleasurable

The cream is pleasing on application

The skin is more supple

The cream is non sticky

The skin is nourished

The cream leaves a protective film on the skin

The skin is softer

The skin is moisturized

the results clearly show a very good overall satisfaction level and a strong moisturizing effect of acticire ® , confirmed by 100% of the panelists.

acticire ® also contributes to a feeling of nourishment, the skin appearing protected and reinforced, without the sticky or rough feel frequently associated with film forming ingredients.

formulaTIon and applIcaTIons

acticire ® can be formulated easily in any kind of emulsion or anhydrous formulation. it is generally added to the oil phase then heated to 70°c for melting.

acticire ® is recommended for use between 1 and 5%, depending on the type of formulation.

acticire ® can be used for:

Skin care O/W or W/O emulsions

addition of water to oil gels or sticks, up to 15%.

it can be used in lip balms and massage balms to improve moisturization and texture.

in sun care, acticire ® will improve the skin feel of formulations with high uv filter content (chemical or mineral).

acticire ® can also be used in make-up products to:

improve crystallization for an improved stability

improve application properties and texture.

a make-up innovation, acticire ® is particularly interesting for its capacity to disperse water into traditionally anhydrous formulations.

acticire ® is well suited to foundations (emulsions or gels), lipsticks.

specIfIcaTIons

Organoleptic characteristics:

aspect Odor Physico-chemical characteristics:

Drop point (Mettler) Solubility at 5% and 70°c Transport and storage conditions:

Store at room temperature. Packaging:

industrial standard pack Samples Regulatory:

iNci Name

and

insoluble

Soft beige wax Faint

53.0 to 64°c in water, soluble in oil

10 kg iron can available

esters and acacia decurrens flower Wax

helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed Wax and polyglycerin-3

Jojoba

formula

Color and protect lip balm

Sf 1228/f

IncI name

Trade name

%

i

glyceryl behenate

comprITol ® 888 cg pelleTs geleol™

5.00

glyceryl stearate

5.00

hydrogenated castor oil

 

2.50

c10-18 triglycerides

lIpocIre™ a

10.00

jojoba esters (and) acacia decurrens flower wax (and)

 
 

helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax (and) polyglycerin-3

acTIcIre ® laBrafac™ cc IsosTearyl IsosTearaTe

3.00

 

caprylic/capric triglyceride

27.40

isostearyl isostearate

15.00

simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil

 

20.00

ci

17200 (0.1% sol.)

10.00

ii

water (and) fragaria vesca (strawberry) fruit extract

fresh cells sTraWBerry

0.50

glycerin

0.30

iii

ci

77891 (and) mica (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane

0.50

mica (and) titanium dioxide (and) red 7 lake (and)

 
 

hydrogenated polyisobutene (and) palmitic acid

0.50

iv

propanediol (and) evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract perfume

gaTulIne ® radIance

0.50

0.20

 

100.00

Heat i to 85°c. Maintain at 85°c for 10 min. cool slowly under normal stirring. at about 45°c, increase the mixing speed (rotor stator 2 500 rpm) until completely cooled. at about 40°c, add ii, iii and iV.

Hydrate (H) and Renew cream

MM 8772

IncI name

Trade name

%

i polyglyceryl-6 distearate

plurol ® sTearIque

3.50

stearic acid

3.00

cetyl alcohol

2.00

squalane

8.00

jojoba esters (and) acacia decurrens flower wax (and)

helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax (and) polyglycerin-3

acTIcIre ®

3.00

glyceryl stearate

geleol™

1.00

simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil

4.00

tocopheryl acetate

0.50

ii demineralized water

61.60

glycerin microcrystalline cellulose (and) cellulose gum xanthan gum

 

7.00

1.50

0.30

sodium hydroxide (10% sol.)

1.40

iii preservative

0.80

alcohol (and) water (and) onopordum acanthium

flower/leaf/stem extract

gaTulIne ® skIn-repaIr BIo

2.00

perfume

0.40

100.00

Disperse Microcrystalline cellulose (and) cellulose Gum (20 minutes), then Xanthan Gum (10 minutes) into water + glycerin. Under stirring, add i heated to 75°c to ii heated to 75°c. Maintain under rapid mixing (rotor stator 2 500 rpm) for 5-10 minutes. cool under normal stirring and at about 35°c, add the components of iii. complete cooling.

this information is presented in good faith, and we believe it is correct, but no warranty as to accuracy of results, or fitness for a particular use is given, nor is freedom from patent infringement to be inferred. it is offered solely for your consideration, investigation and verification.

acticire ® -GB-856-4 - (5832Be)

World W I de

l oca T I ons

® -GB-856-4 - (5832Be) World W I de l oca T I ons r e g

r e g I onal

a f f I l I a T e s

BrazIl

Gattefossé Do Brasil Serviços de Marketing avenida Paulista 568 - 7° andar Sala 10 - Jardim Paulista ceP 01310.000 Sao Paulo SP - BraSiL tel. +55 11 7399 9045

canada

Gattefossé canada, inc. 170 attwell Drive, Suite 580 toronto, ONtariO M9W 5Z5 tel. +1 416 243 5019 Fax +1 416 243 8628

chIna

Gattefossé china trading co., Ltd room 302, Building N° 6, Lane 289 Bisheng road ZhangJiang Hi-tech Park 201204 SHaNGHai P.r. cHiNa tel. +86 215 895 8010 601 Fax +86 215 895 8015

france

Gattefossé France 5 rue Montesquieu F-92018 NaNterre cedex tel. +33 1 41 47 19 00 Fax +33 1 41 47 19 29

germany

Gattefossé (Deutschland) GmbH Freiburger Strasse 19 D-79189 BaD KrOZiNGeN tel. +49 7 63 39 25 880 Fax +49 763 39 25 88 77

IndIa

Gattefosse india Pvt Ltd 2 & 3, Diamond Deck, Lane 3, Kolekalyan, Sunder Nagar, cSt road Santacruz(e), MUMBai-400098 tel +91 22 2665 6031/32/33 Fax +91 22 2665 6033

ITaly

Gattefossé italia s.r.l. Via Durando, 38 i-20158 MiLaNO tel. +39 2 49 54 29 50 Fax +39 2 49 54 29 69

spaIn

Gattefossé españa, s.a. • av. Diagonal 460 6° a e-08006 BarceLONa tel. +34 9 34 16 05 20 Fax +34 9 34 15 35 46

Gattefossé españa, s.a. • c/Padilla, 73, 1° B e-28006 MaDriD tel. +34 9 14 02 13 11/16 12 Fax +34 9 14 02 00 82

sWITzerland

Gattefossé aG Haldenstrasse 11 cH-6006 LUZerN tel. +41 4 14 18 40 44 Fax +41 4 14 18 40 59

unITed kIngdom

Gattefossé (UK) Limited arc House, terrace road South Binfield, Bracknell, BerKSHire rG42 4PZ tel. +44 13 44 86 18 00 Fax +44 13 44 45 14 00

u.s.a.

Gattefossé corporation Plaza i, 115 West century road, Suite 340, Paramus 07652 NeW JerSey tel. +1 201 265 4800 Fax +1 201 265 4853

c orpora T e

h eadquar T ers

gaTTefossé: 36 chemin de Genas - cS 70070 - 69804 SaiNt-PrieSt cedex - FraNce tel +33 4 72 22 98 00 - Fax +33 4 78 90 45 67 infocos@gattefosse.com - www.gattefosse.com

GatteFOSSé is an independent, multinational company headquartered in France which creates, manufactures and distributes specialty products used as ingredients by the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Present in 60 countries worldwide, GatteFOSSé enjoys a strong know-how and position in lipochemistry, biology and extraction from natural sources.

GatteFOSSé offers the cosmetic industry a variety of high performance products classified as:

• Bases

dispersers, solubilizers, thickeners… • Traditional plant extracts • substantiated active ingredients from vegetable, mineral and marine origins.

emulsifiers, coemulsifiers, emollients,

and

additives:

active ingredients from vegetable, mineral and marine origins. emulsifiers, coemulsifiers, emollients, and additives :
active ingredients from vegetable, mineral and marine origins. emulsifiers, coemulsifiers, emollients, and additives :