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For some reason many TV brands are rubbish at setting up their own TVs to deliver great
pictures.
In the vast majority of cases when you get a new TV out of its box, the default picture position is
to deliver pictures that are ridiculously overblown, with cartoonish colours, excessive brightness,
messy backlighting, and sharpness levels set so high that all you see is noise, not detail.
There was a time when we could at least comprehend this, on the grounds that TVs want to look
bold and colourful on bright shop floors.
But these days most TVs ship with separate Shop and Home factory preset modes. The
manufacturers's wide-ranging lack of comprehension of how to produce great pictures from their
own panels is frankly bewildering.
Thankfully you don't need to be a THX-trained calibration professional to make a vast positive
impact on your TV's performance. All that's required is a willingness to brave your TV's
onscreen menus, and a few minutes - yes, just minutes to implement the set-up tips described
below.
So what are you waiting for? Pick up that remote, and prepare to unlock your TV's true potential.
We've used a Panasonic TV to illustrate these steps but you'll find most TVs have very similar
menu systems for changing settings.
Make sure you check that the TV you want has the connections you need
Component video
RGB Scart
4-pin S-Video
Non-RGB Scart
Turn off overscanning to make sure you get the full picture
People with plasma TVs should also note that over-contrasted pictures can cause problems with
screenburn, where channel logos and other static image elements can eventually leave a
permanent shadow burned into your screen.
As a general rule we'd suggest reducing contrast settings to no higher than 70-80 per cent of their
maximum for LCD TVs, and potentially even lower for a good plasma set.
Another related point concerns the dedicated contrast or black level boosting/stretching options
some TVs have. If you find one of these on your TV, we'd recommend you at least experiment
with turning it off. Why? Because many of them simply go too far, becoming so obsessed with
making dark parts of the picture look blacker that they 'crush out' much of the subtle shadow
detailing that makes dark areas believable and layered.
If dark parts of the picture look like empty 'black holes' with your contrast booster in action,
you're probably better off without it.
Dynamic contrast
The majority of LCD TVs further try to boost their contrast performances by using so-called
dynamic contrast options that continually adjust the amount of light emitted in response to
changes in the image content.
Again, though, we'd suggest treating such features with suspicion, as in many cases dynamic
contrast systems can cause frequent brightness 'jumps' with their continual light adjustments.
If you find yourself distracted by this, try turning the dynamic contrast system off. This will
reduce contrast, but in many cases (though perhaps not with LG LCD TVs, which have tended
recently to struggle to deliver good black levels without dynamic contrast engaged) you may
well find the increased stability worth the contrast sacrifice.
Local dimming
One more issue to discuss in this section is local dimming. It's common now for both edge LED
TVs and direct LED TVs (which put their lights directly behind the screen rather than around its
edge) to adjust the brightness of different parts of the screen independently to suit the demands
of the image.
Generally we'd suggest that you leave these features on, though only at their low settings.
Selecting a higher setting can often result in the appearance of distracting side effects, such as
hollow-looking dark areas and ugly 'blocks' of light around any bright objects that appear against
dark backgrounds.
What you're ultimately looking for when trying to get to your TV's optimum contrast setting is
the deepest black colour you can get without causing the image to look unstable, uneven, or so
dark that all shadow detailing has been crushed out of the picture.
You can get away with nudging the backlight up a bit above half way if you're watching in a
bright environment, but go much higher than that and both colour accuracy and contrast response
start to diminish.
Keeping the backlight and brightness levels as low as we've suggested almost always gives you
deeper, richer, more natural-looking black colours. It counters LCD's natural tendency to look
rather grey when showing dark scenes.
Plasma exceptions
We should note here that we've been talking about LCD technology. With plasma screens you
can arguably use slightly higher brightness settings. Plasma produces its illumination on a pixelby-pixel basis, enabling you to push the image brighter without dark sections losing their
integrity.
However, excessive brightness can still damage colour subtlety with plasma, and can also lead to
some excessive dotting noise. This is because higher brightness settings can make it harder for
individual plasma cells to control their charge levels.
Backlight clouding
With LCD screens there's one more very compelling reason for reining in their brightness and
especially backlight settings: backlight clouding.
With edge-lit LCD TVs in particular too much backlight can lead to areas (especially the
corners) of dark pictures looking overly bright, making it look like there are vague clouds
hanging over parts of the image.
This is one of LCD's most distracting problems, so it's great that you can usually reduce its
impact simply by reducing the backlight intensity.
Backlight clouding
With LCD screens there's one more very compelling reason for reining in their brightness and
especially backlight settings: backlight clouding.
With edge-lit LCD TVs in particular too much backlight can lead to areas (especially the
corners) of dark pictures looking overly bright, making it look like there are vague clouds
hanging over parts of the image.
This is one of LCD's most distracting problems, so it's great that you can usually reduce its
impact simply by reducing the backlight intensity.
page 2
There are many colour settings you can play with on modern TVs
While the Rec709 standard may suit some tastes and can help a TV produce colour subtleties not
expressed using more strident settings, it doesn't necessarily always produce the most pleasing
picture quality for every LCD and plasma panel.
Many mainstream viewers feel that accurately calibrated pictures look a bit muted and flat and
it's not our job to tell people who feel this way that they're wrong!
If you want your pictures to look punchy, go for it. But don't get so greedy for dynamism that
you reach a point where certain tones become over-dominant or you can no longer make out
subtle tonal shifts.
page 3
Noise reduction
Noise reduction systems are particularly unhelpful with HD sources, causing softness or image
lag. In almost all cases we turn NR modes off when watching Blu-rays or HD broadcasts.
We tend not to like NR with DVDs either, though it can occasionally help suppress source noise
in heavily compressed standard definition digital broadcasts. Though even here we'd suggest you
only use the lowest power setting for the NR systems.
Motion compensation
Another processing area to be especially careful with is motion compensation. All but the most
basic LCD and plasma TVs feature some sort of processing system designed to tackle flat TVs'
innate problems with judder and motion blur.
But while these sound great in principle, the amount of processing power and cleverness required
to address judder and blur in real time is so high that it catches many brands out. Common ugly
side effects of motion processing systems include softness, smeared halos around fast-moving
objects, and flickering over really fast motion.
If you find yourself troubled by any of these issues, turn the power of the motion processing
elements down (most manufacturers provide multiple settings). Or just turn it off entirely.
Some people also dislike the smoothing effect of motion processing systems when watching
films, feeling that it makes them look like TV dramas rather than movies.
Motion processing can sometimes be useful with 3D footage, we've found, as this is more prone
to judder than 2D on some displays.
Motion processing is also generally more effective with broadcasts. These start out with a higher
frame rate than the 24fps we'd recommend you watch from DVD and Blu-ray and don't pose
such a challenge to motion processing systems.
So it will probably prove the case that if you want to consistently get the best from your TV,
you'll have to revisit the motion processing options quite regularly to suit different sources.
page 4
We're increasingly suspicious that some aspects of 'accurate' TV calibration are based on
principles that are starting to sell today's TV technologies short. But there's no doubt that using
special test signals can be helpful in getting your TV set up to its best advantage.
Unfortunately, though, unless you know your way around the internet there are precious few
sources of such test signals that normal consumers can use. The most affordable solution is the
Digital Video Essentials Blu-ray, a disc containing a (small) selection of test signals and an
insanely long explanation of what you can use each test signal for.
Imaging Science Foundation (ISF) specialist from the list of dealers found at
www.imagingscience.com.
A professional installation will cost anywhere between 200 and 400 depending on the
complexity of the job, and also depends on your TV having enough picture calibration tools to
make an ISF calibration possible.
Some TVs (including many LG and Panasonic models) are actually approved by the ISF as
having all the setup systems it needs to optimise pictures, though a TV doesn't have to be ISFapproved to support a calibration. For instance, Samsung doesn't seek ISF certification, yet its
mid-range to high-end TVs have more than enough setup options to support an accurate
calibration.
Not everyone will like the way ISF-calibrated pictures look especially if they're already
accustomed to the very vibrant, dynamic images their TV likes to push in its out of the box state.
But the ISF images will certainly be accurate to what the people who created a Blu-ray or
broadcaster intended.
TVs with a THX certification will have picture presets that have been approved by THX
One great thing about sets with ISF endorsement is that they provide dedicated ISF presets, so
you could simply switch to those when watching something 'serious' like a film in a dark room.
Then you can switch back to a punchier preset for other types of viewing.
One final point here concerns THX. If a TV earns THX certification it means it has passed
THX's stringent and independent test procedures where picture quality is concerned. THX TVs
also carry picture presets that THX identifies as delivering the most accurate picture quality.
However, while THX modes on plasma TVs tend to be OK, we often find them to be pretty
uninspiring on LCD TVs.
This is chiefly because part of the THX ethos is that their presets won't use any of the features a
TV may carry to help improve its contrast performance. Which means that THX modes are
sometimes accompanied on LCD TVs by poor black levels and, worse, very obvious backlight
clouding problems.